=Red-fleshed Mushroom.= Fig. 1.
(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _rubescens._) 7.
This species is generally abundant in all _woody_ places, making its
first appearance in early summer and continuing till late in the
autumn. It is known by its brown warty top, its white gills, and
perfect ring encircling the bulbous stem. It frequently attains a
large size, and its whole substance, when touched, bruised, or broken,
_becomes sienna-red_. This species is one of the most beautiful as well
as valuable of all the British Agarics. If care be taken to select
young and fresh specimens only, when prepared for the table, it will
prove a very light and delicate addition to any meal. Mr. Berkeley does
not subscribe to the excellence of this species; but as far as my own
experience and that of many friends go, I _well know it to be delicious
and perfectly wholesome_. Mr. Penrose writes me: “_Old specimens_ are
very indigestible.” This I imagine contains the whole secret of its
questionable name amongst some who have (or have not) tried it.
=Edible Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 2.
(_Boletus edulis._) 610.
Frequently attaining enormous dimensions, and first appearing during
the summer or early autumn rains, this fungus is one of our commonest
and most delicious species. Like the last, it grows in woods and
forests, and may be at once known by the following characters: it is
generally very stout, with a smooth, umber, cushion-shaped top, tubes
at first white and ultimately pale yellowish-green; stem whitish-brown,
marked with a _minute_ white and very elegant reticulated network,
principally near the top of the ringless stem; when cut or broken, the
fleshy body of the plant continues pure white. In this, as in every
other species, sound young specimens should be selected, and it is
perhaps as well to scrape away the tubes before preparation for the
table. Whether boiled, stewed with salt, pepper, and butter, fried,
or roasted with onions and butter, this species proves itself one of
the most delicious and tender objects of food ever submitted to the
operation of cooking. It is not the plant referred to by the ancient
Roman satiric poets; but at Rome (in the present day) this species, in
company with peaches and _Agaricus cæsareus_, is sold at every street
corner, our common meadow mushroom, though abundant enough there, being
disregarded.
_B. scaber_ (615) is sometimes eaten. From personal experience, Mr.
Penrose says: “Young specimens are good—old, very flat.”
_B. æstivalis_ (612) is of rare excellence; it appears in the early
summer, sometimes in abundance, at Highgate.
Before I properly knew _B. edulis_, I ate all sorts of _Boleti_ in
mistake for it, notably _B. chrysenteron_.
=Variable Mushroom.= Fig. 3.
(_Russula heterophylla._) 522.
This is a very common species in woods, known by its sweet nutty
taste; white, rigid, sometimes branched, gills; white flesh; white,
solid, fleshy, ringless stem; and firm top, variable in colour, which
is at first convex, at last concave. The colour of the thin viscid
skin covering the top of the fungus is commonly subdued green, but (as
its name indicates) the colour is variable: at one time it approaches
greenish-yellow, or lilac, and at another grey or obscure purple;
but it is so common and well marked that, with the assistance of the
figure, there is no fear of mistaking it for anything else. There is
a _stouter_, more rigid plant, with forked gills and a bitter taste
(_R. furcata_), that had better be avoided. A third green Russula (_R.
virescens_), immediately known by its rigid substance, its top broken
up into large rough emerald-green patches, and with no viscid skin, is
an excellent addition to the table.
_Russula heterophylla_ is highly esteemed by many, and is certainly one
of the sweetest and mildest species we have. It is excellent stewed in
an oven, with salt, pepper, and butter, between two dishes.
=Candle Clavaria.= Fig. 4.
(_Clavaria vermiculata._) 843.
This species is frequently very common in pastures and meadows, on
lawns and by roadsides, in the wet weather of autumn. It grows in
bundles; is brittle; the clubs are pointed and very _white_. If a few
bundles be gathered, cleaned, and stewed or broiled, they will form
a novel and tasty adjunct to any dish, and when once tried will be
eagerly sought for in future. Coloured _Clavarias_ had better remain
where found growing, as their gastronomic qualities are doubtful.
=Meadow Mushroom.= Fig. 5.
(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _campestris._) 316.
A large volume might be written about this species, the only one
popularly recognized in this country as edible. It is common in rich
meadows everywhere, perhaps all over the world, and varies in a
remarkable manner, by imperceptible gradations approaching and blending
with the horse mushroom, fig. 9: its varieties are distinguished by
five or six different names, but the characters run into each other
so much, and are frequently so slight and transient, that they are
often difficult to appreciate. One form is found growing in woods (_A.
silvicola_). I have often gathered it in the Highgate woods, but from
its suspicious aspect would not advise its general use; though I have
frequently eaten it with no ill effect. There is another most beautiful
variety I have frequently gathered in the meadows on the south side of
Lord Mansfield’s woods at Hampstead (_A. pratensis_), with a very hairy
top, the hairs grouped in patches like ermine. When broken, the flesh
changes to a pale but vivid rose-colour. If possible, this form exceeds
in excellence and piquancy of flavour the common form of our pastures.
Several very distinct varieties are cultivated in beds and stoves,
which occasionally appear in our markets; but none exceed our delicious
indigenous meadow mushroom, as found in the autumn in rich pastures.
_Bonâ fide_ mushrooms are known by their beautiful pink gills (in which
state they are best fit for use), ultimately becoming deep brown, and
not reaching the stem, which stem carries a well-marked white woolly
ring; by the very fleshy down-covered top, the delicious and enticing
fragrance and the firm white flesh, sometimes inclined to pink when cut
or broken: the plant is so well known and so highly esteemed in this
country that it is hardly necessary to say a word in its favour, or
repeat methods of preparing it for the table. Butter, spice, parsley,
sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and sometimes the squeeze of a lemon, appear
to be in the greatest request; but whether boiled, pickled, stewed,
fried, or prepared in any other way, it is equally delicious in all. It
seldom appears in Covent Garden Market; the dealers there are content
to find a sale, at a high price, for stale horse mushrooms. Much has
been written at various times regarding the apocryphal “inspector of
the Roman markets,” who consigns mushrooms to the Tiber, but the facts
have been much exaggerated. _Agaricus campestris_ is not generally
appreciated in Italy, is seldom eaten, and never appears in the
markets, for the simple reason that there would be no sale for it.
There is an edict in existence ordering certain fungi to be thrown into
the Tiber, but it is now, and has long been, altogether effete; and
whilst there is an abundance of _A. cæsareus_ (by some said to be the
most delicious of all fungi) for the markets of Italy, it is not to be
expected that the consumption of this latter plant will be given up for
another and less-known species. It is probable that _Agaricus cæsareus_
may one day be found in the southern parts of this country; if so, it
will be known by its smooth _wartless_ crimson top, its yellow gills,
and stout white stem springing from a large wrapper at the base (like
fig. 7, Poisonous Sheet).
The ketchup made from the meadow mushroom is, not without reason,
looked upon as the best, although it may be obtained from many other
species. I have seen persons gathering fungi for ketchup (to be sold
in the markets), putting almost anything into their baskets so long as
the species appeared likely to yield a black juice.
I have known cows to be very fond of mushrooms; and a friend of mine in
the country (who has more than once seen his cows, in the morning, go
from mushroom to mushroom till all are consumed) goes regularly over
his pastures every morning in the autumn, before the cattle are turned
in, to secure the first gathering of the fungus crop. Sheep, squirrels,
birds, and many other animals commonly eat raw mushrooms and other
fungi.
=Yellow-gilled Mushroom.= Fig. 6.
(_Russula alutacea._) 536.
This is one of the principal ornaments of our woods in summer and
autumn, and is readily recognized by its thick gills, which are of a
subdued but decided buff-yellow colour, and the somewhat viscid red, or
pale crimson top. The stem is stout, white or rose-colour, ringless,
and solid; the whole plant fleshy, and frequently very large. The gills
immediately distinguish it from the emetic mushroom (fig. 21, Poisonous
Sheet), as in the latter they are pure white, and always remain so;
there are, too, other great differences between the two species noted
in the description of the emetic mushroom.
The taste of _Russula alutacea_ is particularly agreeable and mild,
and, when well prepared for the table, few species prove more
satisfactory to the consumer. Dr. Badham (by an error) takes some
exception to it.
=Furrowed Clavaria.= Fig. 7.
(_Clavaria rugosa._) 827.
This species, common in woody places, is usually pure white, pale grey,
or shaded with cream-colour; the clubs are irregular, somewhat wrinkled
and tough. Treated in the same way as _C. vermiculata_, it will prove
equally acceptable, agreeable, and novel. All the white-spored species
are believed to be esculent.
I have not tried _C. coralloides_, an allied species, which is greatly
branched, but it is esteemed as an esculent.
=Chantarelle.= Fig. 8.
(_Cantharellus cibarius._) 539.
The chantarelle cannot be called very common, but it is abundant in
many districts; its solid, ringless stem, fleshy body, thick swollen
veins in the place of gills, and brilliant yellow colour, at once serve
to distinguish it from every other species. “Its smell,” says Berkeley,
“is like that of ripe apricots.” Sometimes (as I have frequently seen
in Epping Forest and elsewhere) immense numbers grow together; at
other times they are very few. Chantarelles often cover a hedge-bank
where there are trees close by; and wherever they do appear they must
enlist the admiration of the passer-by, for they look as if made of
solid gold. When cooked, this species has a rich mushroom-like flavour
peculiarly its own, and may be prepared for the table in various ways,
according to the fancy of the consumer: but being big and solid, it
should be cut up; and, if stewed, allowed to simmer gently, and be
served with pepper, salt, and butter. There is a curious, thin, pale,
slender variety, found growing in pastures about old stumps, which I
have never eaten, and from its curious aspect, habitat, and comparative
rarity, I think it hardly worth the experiment, but it may be esculent.
There is a very pale, almost white, variety of the chantarelle, and one
quite without the apricot odour.
=Horse Mushroom.= Fig. 9.
(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _arvensis._) 317.
This species, the _A. exquisitus_ of Dr. Badham, is very nearly
allied to the meadow mushroom, and frequently grows with it, but it
is coarser, and has not the same delicious flavour. It is usually
much larger, often attaining enormous dimensions; and it turns a
brownish-yellow as soon as broken or bruised. The top in good specimens
is smooth and snowy white; the gills are not the pure pink of the
meadow mushroom, but dirty brownish-white, ultimately becoming brown
black. It has a big, ragged, floccose ring, and its pithy stem is
inclined to be hollow. It is _the_ species exposed for sale in Covent
Garden Market. Indeed, after knowing the market for many years, I have
rarely seen any other species there; when the true mushroom, however,
_is_ there, it is frequently mingled with horse mushrooms, which seems
to show that the dealers do not know one from the other. In the wet
days of autumn, children, idlers, and beggars go a few miles from town
into the meadows to gather whatever they can find in the mushroom
line; they then bring their dirty stock to market, where it is sold to
fashionable purchasers; stale, vapid, and with no taste but a bad one.
When young and fresh, the horse mushroom is a most desirable addition
to the bill of fare; it yields an abundant gravy, and the flesh is firm
and delicious. It is a valuable plant when freshly gathered; but when
stale it becomes tough and leathery, and without aroma or juice.
There is a curious large, brown, hairy variety, of rather uncommon
occurrence, similar to the hairy variety of the meadow mushroom,
the _A. villaticus_ of Dr. Badham (given in error by the Rev. M. J.
Berkeley as a variety of the meadow mushroom, and since corrected by
him). It is a splendid plant, but, I think, very rare. I have only seen
it once.
There is also another large, sienna-red, rank-looking variety, I have
often gathered in certain situations under trees, &c., that few would
be tempted to eat; it is probably a luxuriant, overgrown, disagreeable
thing, that would give one a stomach-ache, and in place of better
species is not worth experimenting upon.
Many country-folks readily distinguish the meadow from the horse
mushroom, and have a great antipathy to the latter, although they are
always willing to put it into the jar as one of the ingredients of
ketchup. Opinions appear to differ greatly regarding the excellence
of this species. Mr. Penrose writes—“I think young, and especially
button specimens of this, very indigestible; until they are well opened
out, they are unfit for use.” Such, however, I must say, is not my
experience of button specimens.
There is a strong odour attached both to this fungus and its spawn,
the ground just below the surface being frequently white with the
latter. If horsedung be kicked aside in a rich pasture frequented
by graminivorous animals, the earth will frequently present a snowy
whiteness from the spawn of this species, from which the young
individuals may be seen springing up. The specimen figured is not fully
expanded, but is represented in the condition best for the table.
I once saw a sheep eat a large specimen with great apparent gusto,
although the fungus was full of maggots.
=Fir-cone Mushroom.= Fig. 10.
(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _strobiliformis._) 5.
If colour is left out of the question, no finer species of Agaric
than this one grows in the country. It attains a very large size in
well-grown specimens, but is rare. I have but once found it, and
then it was sprinkled pretty plentifully along the borders of a fir
plantation in Hampshire, not far from Winchester. The solid compact
flesh, fine ring, bulbous stem, and patched top, well mark this
species. The persistent patches on the top are not very unlike the
scales of a fir-cone, hence its specific name; the gills do not reach
the stem.
Its undisputed esculent qualities are of a high order, and it is to be
regretted that its comparative rarity must prevent its being so well
known and appreciated as its merits deserve. The specimen figured is
not fully expanded, at which time most fungi are fuller of flavour.
A very common species of _Amanita_ (_A. vaginatus_), said to be
esculent (and eaten by Mr. Penrose), I have not tried.
=Orange-milk Mushroom.= Fig. 11.
(_Lactarius deliciosus._) 502.
There are but few species of the _Lactarius_, or milk-bearing group,
that can be recommended for culinary purposes. This species, however,
and fig. 26 are exceptions, and there can be no fear of mistaking the
orange-milk mushroom for any other species. It is at once known by
the orange-coloured milk which it exudes on being bruised, cut, or
broken; this milk soon becoming dull green. The plant is solid, almost
corky, and the richly-coloured top is commonly, but not always, marked
with deeper coloured zones, as in the figure. It always grows in fir
plantations, and I have found it on the Kentish Town side of London,
almost before the smoke of the city is left behind. It is somewhat
local, although at times it grows in large numbers, but always amongst
firs. Like several other excellent species, the taste is at times
rather sharp when raw.
When cooked with taste and care, it is one of the greatest delicacies
of the vegetable kingdom, its flesh being more crisp and solid than
many species.
One or two milk-mushrooms, which had better be avoided, bear
brimstone-coloured milk, or milk which changes to a brimstone or
burnt sienna colour; they are figured on the Poisonous Sheet, figs.
20 and 28; but _Lactarius deliciosus_ can never be mistaken for any
other plant if the deep orange (or red) and ultimately green milk is
observed. Figs. 20 and 28 are not peculiar to fir woods.
=Purple Cobweb-Mushroom.= Fig. 12.
(_Cortinarius_ [_Inoloma_] _violaceus._) 420.
This is one of the best-marked of all edible fungi, and at the same
time one of the very best for esculent purposes. It cannot be called
common, although I have often found it close to London. It appears to
principally grow in _open places_ in woods. When young, it looks like
a bright purple silk ball in the grass, and when gathered the bulbous
stem is almost as large as the top itself. There is always a cottony
web, like cobweb (which represents the ring), stretching from the edge
of the pileus to the stem, and this web soon takes its colour from the
red spores, which are plentifully produced, colouring the gills and
part of the stalk a red colour, very similar in tint to the rust of
iron; when cut, the flesh is of a subdued lilac tint, and firm.
Broiled with a steak, this is a most exquisitely rich luxury, much
resembling the meadow mushroom in flavour, but altogether firmer, and
more meaty and substantial. I am always glad to find this species, and
it is next to impossible to mistake it for any other.
=Maned Mushroom.= Fig. 13.
(_Coprinus comatus._) 374.
This fungus should be gathered for the table when the gills are white
or just changing to pink, and before they are black, in which latter
state (as the plant is ultimately deliquescent), it is unfit for food.
If I had my choice, I think there is no species I should prefer before
this one; it is singularly rich, tender, and delicious. Those found
growing amongst short grass, on lawns, or by roadsides, are best; there
is one form of it which grows in dirty, sticky places, in brickfields,
dustyards, &c., that I should not like to recommend. When gathered
in a rich pasture, it is of snowy whiteness, the top being somewhat
fleshy, cylindrical, and broken up into white clothy patches; there is
a white, powdery, fragile ring round the hollow stem, which is soon
broken, and falls away.
_Coprinus comatus_—the “Agaric of Civilization”—is common in all the
London parks in October. A closely-allied species, found at the base
of old stumps and palings, and on the ground (_C. atramentarius_),
is sometimes eaten. I have not tried it, but Mr. Penrose and several
friends have a word to say in its favour.
=Scaly Mushroom.= Fig. 14.
(_Agaricus_ [_Lepiota_] _procerus._) 13.
Agaricus procerus everywhere enjoys a good reputation, and as it is
far from uncommon, the lovers of fungi can generally make sure of this
species for a treat. When or at what time it was ever sold at Covent
Garden Market, I do not know; for although more than one book says it
is there displayed for sale, I never saw, or could hear of it. It grows
in pastures, and is known by its long bulbous spotted stem, by the ring
that will slip up and down, by the very scaly top, and the gills far
removed from the insertion of the stalk. When the stem is removed, a
large hollow socket remains,—just the place to insert a large piece of
butter in the broiling process, when, with pepper and salt, it forms a
dish that if once tried must please the most fastidious. I think the
plants gathered in the pastures are best. I have sometimes found most
enormous specimens growing in fir plantations, but I do not think them
equal for the table to the plants which abound in rich meadows. The
flesh is a little inclined to change colour; and there is an allied
species, _A. rachodes_, much more _robust_, but often smaller, that
changes colour to a deep yellowish-brown when broken, and has a smooth
stem, that cannot be so highly recommended, if it even be wholesome. I
have generally found it growing on dark and shady hedge-banks, and know
several persons who have eaten it and speak well of it.
=Plum Mushroom.= Fig. 15.
(_Agaricus_ [_Clitopilus_] _prunulus._) 225.
The pure pink gills running considerably down the ringless stem, and
the fresh and fragrant smell of meal, at once distinguish this species
from all others. It grows in and near woods in the autumn, evidently
giving a preference to the open places and borders; the solid stem
and the very fleshy top are white, or some shade of very pale grey.
Dr. Badham and some other authors refer to our plant under the name
of _A. orcellus_, and some botanists consider the true “orcellus”
and the true “prunulus” distinct but closely allied species. There
is also a vexatious confusion between this species and fig. 19, St.
George’s Mushroom (_A. gambosus_). This latter is a spring plant,
and is frequently and erroneously called _A. prunulus_. They have no
characters in common, and, in fact, more distinct Agarics do not exist.
Returning to the true Plum Mushroom (fig. 15), I have only to say that,
however prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy,
and full of flavour; and whether broiled, stewed, or however prepared,
it is a most delicious morsel. I have never seen it in very large
quantities; it is scattered over the woods north of London, but not in
profusion.
=Curled Helvella.= Fig. 16.
(_Helvella crispa._) 1673.
This singular-looking plant is nearly allied to the true Morel, and
closely resembles it in flavour. It is hardly possible to mistake it
for any other species, unless it be the next, which has a black top,
and is rarer (_H. lacunosa_), 1674, and also esculent. _H. crispa_
generally grows on shady banks, or on the edges of pastures and lawns,
and amongst dead leaves, under the shade of trees. I have only once
seen it near London, and that was in the neighbourhood of Caen Wood,
Hampstead; sometimes, however, I have found it in immense quantities
(numbering hundreds of specimens) on rich sloping banks. The stem is
full of wrinkles and holes, and the top lobed and deflexed in a very
singular and irregular manner.
If stewed slowly and with care, this species will prove very pleasant
eating, and will exude a delicious gravy. The flesh is firm and crisp,
and greatly resembles the Morel. It may be easily dried for future use
in a current of air, or in a dry place; in this state, specimens are at
times kept threaded on strings, ready to impart their truly delicious
flavour to stews and gravies. (See description of fig. 20.)
I once saw a batch of specimens which had suddenly sprung up close to
some ants’ nests, and thousands of the ants were swarming over and
examining the fungi, and running in and out of the holes in the stems
in the most amusing manner.
=Oyster Mushroom.= Fig. 17.
(_Agaricus_ [_Pleurotus_] _ostreatus._) 179.
I have always found this far from uncommon species growing on old
_elm_ trunks, although it is not at all particular as to its habitat,
often appearing on laburnum, apple, ash, &c. It usually grows in large
masses, one plant above another, forming a very handsome object on
old tree-stems. The gills _and spores are white_, the former running
down the stem, and the top dingy—sometimes nearly white; at others,
full brown. An allied species, _A. euosmus_, with pale lilac spores,
and a scent like that of Tarragon (_Artemisia dracunculus_), is “not
esculent,” and is said to grow in the spring. I commonly find the
former growing in spring, although it is said usually to grow late in
the autumn, or winter.
Perhaps a taste for this species has to be acquired; but though it
is without doubt edible, I have never thought well of it. The flesh
possesses a certain amount of firmness, and produces an abundant and
savoury juice; but I am inclined to place it as the species of least
value for culinary purposes. It has, however, been highly recommended
by some; and a dish of this species stewed before a very hot fire has
proved as enjoyable and nourishing “as half a pound of fresh meat.”
Tastes are allowed to differ; and perhaps the opinion of some of my
readers may differ from mine if they try this species, which, from its
peculiar appearance, there is little chance of mistaking for any other.
=Lilac-stemmed Mushroom.= Fig. 18.
(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _personatus._) 65.
Although this plant at times appears in pastures near London, it is not
very common. It is very nearly allied to and extremely like the next
species (fig. 19), from which it is principally distinguished by its
growing in the autumn, and having a lilac band round the upper part of
the stem. This lilac stain, however, is not invariably present; and a
species that is altogether (stem and top too) lilac, or full violet,
should be avoided (_A. nudus_). The Purple Cobweb-Mushroom (fig.
12) is easily distinguished by its rust of iron gills. In _Agaricus
personatus_ they are white—sometimes dirty white; the solid ringless
stem is rather rough; and the top is smooth, and exceedingly firm and
fleshy; the plant grows late in the autumn, on downs, and in rich,
short pastures.
Opinions vary a little regarding the value of this species for
gastronomic purposes; but I think, if young plants are gathered, in
_dry weather_, and carefully broiled or stewed, few fungi will prove
more truly delicious. From my own experience, I have the highest
opinion of it; but the plant readily absorbs moisture, and during wet
weather is heavy and of little worth.
As these pages are passing through the press, my friend, Mr. Thomas
Moore, of the Botanic Garden, Chelsea, informs me that this autumn
(1874) he saw large quantities of _A. personatus_ exposed for sale
in the markets of Nottingham, under the name of “blue-bottoms,” the
vendors stating the fungus to be “as good as mushrooms.”
=St. George’s Mushroom.= Fig. 19.
(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _gambosus._) 62.
The St. George’s Mushroom is fit for any saint in the calendar. It
comes up in the spring, near St. George’s Day, when few other species
are to be found. It is in every part almost white, or with a slight
inclination to ochre; but sometimes the colour is a little fuller. The
stem and top are singularly firm, fleshy, and solid, and the latter, in
hot weather is inclined to split. It grows in rings, on rich lawns and
pastures, and has a strong, fragrant, enticing odour.
It is a little like _A. crustuliniformis_ (fig. 24, Poisonous Sheet),
which, however, differs in various ways, principally in discharging
_brown spores_ instead of _white_, as in _A. gambosus_. The poisonous
plant has an odour like the flowers of laurel, and _grows in woods in
the autumn_.
Few species are more substantial and delightful for the table. I (with
many others) look upon it with unusual favour, as one of the rarest
delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. Like the last, it is absorbent of
water, and should be gathered in dry weather. I think it is local, and
certainly uncommon near London.
It is sometimes erroneously referred to under the name of _A. prunulus_.
=Edible Morel.= Fig. 20.
(_Morchella esculenta._) 1668.
I know a wood in Bedfordshire called “Morel Wood,” where, in the
spring, this rare and delicious fungus _abounds_. It is generally far
from common, and occurs, perhaps, in greater abundance in the south of
England. It appears, however, to be pretty well known and in general
request amongst housewives, north and south, for the truly exquisite
flavour it imparts to gravies and made dishes; and being readily dried,
it can be kept for immediate use at any season of the year. The figure
shows exactly what the Morel is like; the honeycombed pitted top is
_hollow_, and the almost smooth stem partly so. It yields a delicious
ketchup; and the hollow top, well stuffed with minced veal, and dressed
between slices of bacon, is a dish of rare and exquisite flavour.
This notice of the Morel would not be complete without reference to the
“Giant Morel” (_Morchella crassipes_) found a few years ago in this
country, for the first time, by my friend Miss Lott, of Barton Hall,
South Devon. This species, which attains enormous dimensions, is not
quite so crisp or rapidly dried as the last, but, as an object of food,
is fully as exquisite for flavouring sauces, and other purposes.
=Liver Fungus.= Fig. 21.
(_Fistulina hepatica._) 716.
This singular fungus is not always _common_. It generally grows on
the trunks of old oaks. I have seen it in immense quantities on the
ancient oaks of Sherwood Forest, whilst at times oak districts appear
to be singularly free from its presence. It externally resembles a very
large tongue or a huge piece of liver lolling out from the tree, and
when incised a red juice plentifully exudes. It is truly “a vegetable
beefsteak,” for the taste resembles meat in a remarkable manner. A good
way of preparing it is to cut it up in thin slices and broil it with a
steak, and dress with butter, salt, and pepper. There is a slight but
very perceptible _acid_ flavour with it, which gives considerable zest
and piquancy to a dish of the “vegetable beefsteak,” as it is called,
rendering it a “treat for an epicure.”
It rarely grows on any tree but the oak, but I have seen it on the ash,
beech, and other trees.
=Spine-bearing Mushroom.= Fig. 22.
(_Hydnum repandum._) 718.
There is little fear of mistaking this for any other species, as the
awl-shaped spines on the under surface are a characteristic feature of
the small genus, _Hydnum_. All the species of any size enjoy a good
character; _Hydnum repandum_ being the only _common_ plant of the genus.
It is sometimes most abundant in the few woody places remaining at the
north of London, and may often be found on shady roadsides in the humid
weather of autumn.
Its taste is slightly pungent when uncooked; but after being submitted
to the culinary processes of the kitchen, it affords a charming
addition to the table. Its flesh is very firm and delicious; yet,
being somewhat dry (like fig. 11), the addition of some sauce or gravy
lends an additional relish to the stew.
The colour of the fungus is exactly like that of a cracknel; the
smooth top is frequently irregular, and the pure solid stem often out
of the centre. The top sometimes partakes of a warmer, almost sienna,
colouring.
=Viscid White Mushroom.= Fig. 23.
(_Hygrophorus virgineus._) 470.
This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest
ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the
year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom.
It is essentially waxy, and feels and looks precisely as if made of the
purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and the
gills (singularly distant from each other) run far down the stem; it
changes colour a little when getting old, at which time it is unfit for
culinary purposes.
A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will
prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be
obtained when other species are not to be had.
Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably
_H. pratensis_ and _H. niveus_; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has
eaten, and speaks favourably of, _H. psittacinus_—a highly ornamental
yellow species, with a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich
pastures (and generally _said_ to be very suspicious).
=Clouded Mushroom.= Fig. 24.
(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _nebularis._) 78.
Common (in certain places), but rare near London. This species appears
late in the autumn and generally grows on dead leaves in moist places,
principally on the borders of woods. The top is lead-colour or grey, at
first _clouded_ grey,—hence its name; the stem is stout, elastic, and
striate, with the _white_ gills running considerably down the ringless
stem, in the manner shown in the drawing.
The gastronomic excellences of the species are well known. When
gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when cooked, the
firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and palatable
taste.
=Giant Puff-ball.= Fig. 25.
(_Lycoperdon giganteum._) 930.
This species of puff-ball is not always a “giant,” and may frequently
be found no larger than an apple. It is somewhat local, and I think
only attains gigantic proportions in certain situations. I have, for
instance, seen specimens growing in rich pastures in Nottinghamshire,
so much larger than the specimen figured that the latter would appear
a perfect _dwarf_ beside them. It may be found, in some of the meadows
near Highgate and Hampstead, quite as big as our figure; but indeed
there is little fear of a mistake, if attention is paid to the smooth
skin,—like white kid leather.
Young specimens must be chosen for cooking, such as are firm and
snow-white, inside and out; for when the fungus is getting ripe and
yellowish, and dusty inside, or when it is saturated with rain and
the interior is a mass of yellow decomposition, of course it must be
rejected.
It is known by its large size, its pure white colour, and its _smooth
skin_.
To cook this species satisfactorily and well, cut the specimens up into
slices of half an inch in thickness, remove the skin or bark, dip the
slices into yolk of egg, and fry in fresh butter. It will then eat with
a delicate and delicious flavour; or served with jam or jelly it is an
excellent substitute for pastry.
=Pear-Milk Mushroom.= Fig. 26.
(_Lactarius volemum._) 508.
This species is recognized by its very rich coloration, firm flesh,
mild taste, white milk (changing to a dull dark umber-colour where the
plant is bruised or broken), white gills becoming warm yellow-buff, and
the full sienna top; the stem is solid, and the plant grows in woods.
The taste of this plant, when fried, has aptly been compared to lamb’s
kidney, and resembles in flavour the only other edible Lactarius—viz.
_L. deliciosus_, fig. 11. It is a rare species in this country.
=White Fir-wood Mushroom.= Fig. 27.
(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _dealbatus._) 80.
This pretty little fungus commonly grows in, and about the
neighbourhood of, fir plantations, but will occasionally come up
elsewhere. Its top is white, smooth, and _exceedingly like ivory_. It
is shining, waved, fleshy, and inclined to be irregular; the gills are
thin, white, and run down the stem.
When clean, young, and fresh specimens are broiled with butter, it
is a delicacy of the very highest degree,—at once tender, juicy, and
delightful. Its charming flavour is exceeded by very few other fungi.
Several allied species are very good, notably _Agaricus odorus_, which
exhales a most delicious odour of melilot.
I used to eat all sorts of things for this species before I properly
knew it, and never felt the worse for the mistakes I made. It would be
useless to enumerate them all here, without figures and descriptions,
but one was the common _Agaricus subpulverulentus_.
=Fairy-ring Champignon.= Fig. 28.
(_Marasmius oreades._) 553.
If possible, this species is better than the last, and no
recommendation can be too strong for it. The exquisitely rich and
delicious flavour of this plant when broiled with butter must be tasted
to be understood. It is firmer than the meadow mushroom, and, whilst
having its peculiar aroma, it possesses it in a concentrated form. Even
Mr. Berkeley, who would be the last man in the world to subscribe to a
doubtful species, says, “_it is the very best of all our fungi_.” It
may be pickled, used for ketchup, or dried for future use.
_Marasmius oreades_ grows in rings in short pastures, on downs, and by
roadsides everywhere (_but never in woods_). It is somewhat tough, the
solid stem particularly so, the gills wide apart, and cream-coloured.
This species has no downy hairs at the base of the stem. Certain other
species of _Marasmius_, frequently found growing on dead leaves in
woods, and possessing this hairy down, are to be avoided. There is a
poisonous plant sometimes found in similar situations, and often _with_
the Fairy-Ring Champignon (_M. urens_), fig. 30, Poisonous Sheet. I
once tested its qualities (by accident). See description.
=Truffle.= Fig. 29.
(_Tuber æstivum._) 1916.
The truffle is a subterranean fungus, invariably found under trees,
often just appearing above the surface of the ground, and occasionally
exposed for sale in our markets, where it will realize at times as
much as 5_s._ per pound. The truffle is esteemed by many as the most
delicious object of food in the whole vegetable kingdom, and by others
it is looked upon with aversion or positive disgust. The odour is very
powerful, and is relished by some individuals, and very much disliked
by others. It is looked upon as a great delicacy boiled, or simply
roasted in hot ashes.
Besides the truffle sold in Covent Garden Market, there are many other
species found in this country, of various forms and qualities. _T.
æstivum_ varies much in size, is irregular in shape, black, rough, and
warted.
I must confess that, at first, I regarded the truffle with loathing;
but now I have learned to greatly esteem it. It makes a capital
ingredient for gravies, stuffings, and meat pies.
It is frequently referred to under the name of _T. cibarium_.