crackers that is to be found on the market. The more care exercised in
the cracking at the nuts, the less work and time will be required in
separating the kernels. After cracking the nuts they are sifted through
a series of screens. This helps very materially in preparing them for
rapidly picking their kernels. It is quite important that this
operation be done properly if the kernel picking is to be made simple
and rapid. The cracked nuts are first sifted through a screen made of
1-inch mesh chicken wire netting. Next the nuts are sifted through a
screen made of 1/2-inch mesh hardware cloth. All material which will not
pass through this screen should be kept separate. Some of these pieces
will require recracking and kernel picking with the fingers. The
material which has passed through the 1/2-inch mesh screen is now sifted
on a hardware cloth screen with 5 meshes to the inch. Only the very fine
material will pass through this screen which is not suitable for further
kernel recovery. The material which remains on the 1/2-inch mesh screen
is now placed on the table especially made for kernel picking. This
table is shown in the accompanying sketch. The table is of suitable size
to allow two people to use it at the same time. The operators sit on
stools about 20 inches in height, and work from the low side of the
table. A small amount of the material is brought forward and spread out
very thinly before the operator. A piece of 1/2-inch softwood dowel
about 5 inches long with 4 No. 9 sewing needles imbedded in one end is
used to pick up the kernels. The needles are placed in the form of a
square and should be only about 3/32 of an inch apart to do the best
work. The picks should not be used to pry kernels from the shell, as the
needles would soon become bent and worthless. The picks are meant to be
used only to pick up the kernels from _among_ the shells. As soon as the
operator has removed all the kernels from the small amount of material
he has brought forward from the rear of the table, he shoves the shells
into the hole at the edge of the table and they drop into a receptacle.
The pick is used with the right hand, and the kernels are removed from
the pick with and into the left hand. As soon as a convenient handful of
kernels has been obtained, they are dropped into a small pan which sets
on the table near the operator's left hand. The rapidity with which
kernels may be picked by using these methods is surprising. It is
sometimes necessary to moisten the nuts and hold them in this condition
for 2 or 3 days before cracking them, to keep the kernels from
shattering unduly. After the kernels are picked out they are dried very
thoroughly. Trays whose bottoms are lined with screening somewhat finer
in mesh than that used for windows, are used to dry the kernels. Care
should be taken to not overheat the kernels, or their flavor and color
will be impaired. Good clean lard or similar cans with tight fitting
covers are used for storing the kernels. The kernels are stored in a
cool dry place. Any kernels which are to be kept over the summer months,
are placed in cold storage.
Better Butternuts, Please
_S. H. GRAHAM, Ithaca, N. Y._
"As to palatability, there are many persons who would be disposed to
place the butternut at the very head of edible nuts." This is the
opinion of Luther Burbank in Vol. XI, page 32, of "Luther Burbank, His
Methods and Discoveries."
The butternut tree is noteworthy as being at home in a greater variety
of soils than the blackwalnut as well as being hardier than the black
walnut or the hickory. It ripens so early that the nuts always have
plenty of time to mature while the richly flavored kernels are rarely
shrunken and never astringent. Despite these good qualities, a search
through the publications of the Northern Nut Growers' Association for
the past thirty years proves that comparatively little interest has been
manifested in it. It would seem quite in order to inquire into the
reasons for this neglect. Five of them come to mind: 1. Too early
blooming. 2. Difficulty of propagation. 3. Curculios. 4. Melanconis
disease. 5. Lack of sufficiently good varieties.
The butternut too often blooms so early that its blossoms are caught by
frost. The filbert has the same fault and so, to a less extent, has the
Persian walnut. Late blooming varieties of each have already been
selected. It does not seem too much to hope that late blooming varieties
of butternut may also be found. I know of one butternut that has had
good crops every year but one for the last ten years but have never
visited it at the right time to observe its blooming habit. President
Weschcke reports that butternuts on black walnut stocks have their
blooming retarded for a few days.
Many experienced nut tree propagators have little success in grafting
the butternut. But Mr. Harry Burgart of Michigan, has found that nursery
trees may be successfully grafted if the operation is performed at a
point three or four feet from the ground, while the late Dr. G. A.
Zimmerman of Pennsylvania, found that very early grafting gave him the
best results. He reported that his best catch was from grafts set March
tenth. Some moderately successful propagators do not pay careful
attention to outside temperatures when they cut their scions. In
contrast to this let us see what Mr. J. F. Jones thought about it. He
was undoubtedly the most successful nut tree propagator in the East and
he was always as generous in sharing his hard earned knowledge as he was
skillful in its application in his own commercial nursery. Note this
from his paper in the 1920 annual report. "In the case of trees that
bleed freely when cut, we must guard against taking scions after hard
freezing weather and before the tree has fully recuperated. This
semi-sappy conditions following low temperatures that freeze the wood
seems to be a provision of nature to restore the sap lost by
evaporation. We always try to avoid taking scions of any kind soon after
hard freezing weather. I have found scions of English and Japanese
walnuts, cut from trees in this condition, to be practically worthless
for propagation, although they may have been cut in late winter long
before the sap gets up in the tree naturally." This warning would
undoubtedly apply to the butternut as it bleeds freely when cut. Another
pitfall for the inexperienced propagator lies in storing scions in
packing material that is too moist. Sphagnum is commonly used. It should
be no more than slightly moist to the touch.
If left to run wild, the butternut curculios are a serious menace to the
butternut, the Japanese walnut and the Persian walnut. Their life
history as described at length in U.S.D.A. bulletin 1066, is briefly as
follows: The beetles (called elephant bugs by some because the side view
resembles the elephant) spend the winter in the ground. As soon as new
growth appears on the host tree they begin feeding on the tender leaves
and stems. Soon they begin laying their eggs in crescent shaped
punctures which they cut in the new shoots and nutlets. The larvae hatch
in a few days and tunnel through the pith of the shoots seriously
injuring and stunting their growth while the infested nuts soon fall
from the tree. The eggs may be laid from late May to early August. They
hatch in a few days. The larvae complete their growth in four or five
weeks when they enter the ground to pupate. In about a month they emerge
as adult beetles and begin feeding on leaves and leaf stems as their
parents did in the spring, but they will do no egg laying until the
following spring. Poison spray applied in early spring and again in late
August and September should so reduce their numbers that they will not
become a serious pest. Our State Experiment Station suggests the use of
a cryolite spray as it is more effective against curculios than
arsenical sprays and less likely to injure tender walnut foliage. The
Mitchell hybrid, (butternut x heartnut) with us, appears to have natural
immunity to the curculio. This brings to mind a secondary but very
important reason for finding better butternuts,--namely that they may be
used as a starting point for the super variety that someone should give
the world from his long rows of crosses between the best butternuts and
the best heartnuts.
The nut growers of this country are indebted to Dr. Arthur H. Graves of
the Brooklyn Botanic Garden for a complete study of the Melanconis
disease of the butternut. This study was begun in New York City but has
since been widely extended. He thinks that the disease is probably
present throughout the entire range of the butternut and is usually
responsible for the dead limbs that are so often seen in butternut
trees. The Japanese walnut is also susceptible. The disease usually
enters the tree through twigs that have been injured in some way. His
conclusions, after thorough scientific laboratory and field work
covering a period of over twenty years, is that it is caused by a weak
parasitic fungus attacking rapidly only when the host tree is in a
weakened condition; that it may lie practically dormant in vigorous
trees and that it may be successfully combatted by fertilizing,
mulching, providing necessary water in time of drought and avoidance of
any condition that might weaken the tree. All dead twigs and all twigs
showing fruiting bodies of the fungus should be pruned off some distance
below the apparent infection as soon as discovered and the pruning
wounds painted. Dr. Graves thinks it possible that butternuts grafted on
black walnut stocks may have their vigor increased sufficiently to help
in warding off the disease. Mr. Weschcke says that, although the
Melanconis disease is prevalent in his locality, there has never been
the slightest indication of it on the butternut trees which he has
growing on black walnut stocks. If kept free of disease the butternut
may reach great size. Dr. Robert T. Morris has stated that when he was a
boy there were magnificent butternut trees over the greater part of
Connecticut.
There still remains the stumbling block of lack of really outstanding
varieties bearing nuts of good size, large percentage of kernel and
perfect shelling quality with heavy and regular bearing. This is a large
order to fill but it is a fair guess that somewhere there are wild trees
better than any thus far brought to light. Trying to locate them should
be an exciting assignment for a nut tree enthusiast. Do not think
lightly of a butternut tree just because it looks small and unthrifty.
It may be that the fault lies in an unfavorable location. Only an
appraisal of the nut will establish its value.
The butternut is fairly abundant throughout its range which extends well
up into Canada. In central New York there are uncounted thousands of
butternut trees along fence rows, in the large and small valleys and
along little streams. One person with limited time can hardly hope to
examine more than a small proportion of them during the period when the
nuts are ripe. The scout for better nuts should lose no opportunity to
tell his errand to the people that he meets. I have found the average
stranger interested and cooperative. He may direct you to a superior
tree that you would never otherwise find. For this work one must be
able, like the successful inventor, to hold his enthusiasm after many
disappointments. If the coveted variety is not found, one at least has
been out in the woods and fields during a wonderful time of year.
The Use of Fertilizer in a Walnut Orchard
_By L. K. HOSTETTER, Pennsylvania_
Sometime in the fall of 1941 Professor Fagan of Pennsylvania State
College, and Mr. Graham of Cornell University, called on me and proposed
to make some fertilizer tests in my walnut orchard. The following spring
Professor Fagan sent me 16 bags of fertilizer, one bag for each tree.
These tests were divided into three parts and each part had one tree
that received nitrogen, superphosphate and potash, one that received
nitrogen and superphosphate, one nitrogen and potash, one superphosphate
only and one potash only and a sixth tree that received no fertilizer.
In the first group all the trees received a liberal amount of mulch. In
the second group they received no mulch but the same fertilizer as the
first group and in the third group they received the same fertilizer, no
mulch but raw lime was added to the fertilizer. One tree received lime
only.
There was a heavy sod in the part of the field where these tests were to
be made. This sod was torn up with a springtooth harrow (weed hog) about
March 15th and the fertilizer was applied on May 6th.
That year was a very poor one in which to make these tests, for during
all of July and August we had continuous rainy and cloudy weather and by
the first of September all of the leaves had turned yellow and dropped.
Most of the trees had a big crop of walnuts which were gathered about
October 10th, the nuts from each tree being kept separate. After they
were cracked the kernels were weighed and graded and believe it or not,
the tree that received lime only had the best grade of kernels, and
second best were one that received lime and potash and another lime,
nitrogen and potash. The tree that received mulch and potash also had a
very good grade of kernels.
In 1943 the same tests were repeated. This was again a poor year for we
had very little rain during all of August and September just when the
trees needed it most. The tree that received nothing had the best
quality of kernels and again all the trees that received potash had good
kernels.
In 1941 I grew two acres of tobacco and the following spring the stalks
were cut in one-inch pieces and put on about twenty-five trees. The
first year I could not see that it did any good but this past summer all
the kernels from these trees were just perfect. It surely is a pleasure
to crack walnuts when at least 98% of the kernels are perfect.
Lime and Fertilizers for Our Black Walnut Trees
_By SEWARD BERHOW, Iowa_
In 1941-1942-1943 black walnut crops from trees growing in timberland in
competition with other trees were nearly a total failure. The nuts were
fair in number but not filled, the kernels badly shriveled, tough,
lacking greatly in flavor and discolored. Some of these black walnut
trees have been bearing for 50 years. Are they through, due to having
used up all the soil fertility?
Wild or native black walnut trees, growing on good soil and not crowded
have done better. It looks to me as if it is time our experiment
stations, particularly those having black walnut trees on or near their
grounds should start studying the cultural requirements of nut trees in
the way of lime and fertilizer for better nuts. I have experimented by
applying lime and fertilizer to a few bearing trees with very good
results. But we need to know the proper amounts to be used for all sizes
of trees from the transplants to the bearing trees of different sizes.
Such investigations can best be conducted by our experiment stations.
There is a very substantial increased demand for grafted nut trees each
year. This is evidence that we should make a study of our nut tree
culture and care.
The Propagation of Black Walnuts Through Budding
_By STERLING SMITH, Ohio_
The propagation of black walnuts by budding has proven a highly
successful experience. By following this method over a period of several
years, under normal weather conditions, the results have been fairly
uniform.
Stocks, upon which to bud, may either be secured from private nurseries,
state forestry departments, or by planting the seed of vigorous native
nut trees. If one desires to produce his own stock, the nut seeds should
be planted soon after they are gathered. A garden nursery row makes a
desirable place for small plantings. If a large scale increase is
contemplated it is best to plant the seeds where the trees may be left
to grow to maturity. Plant two or three seeds a few inches apart (within
a hill) and space these hills as the land available will warrant,
anywhere from twenty-five to fifty feet apart. Should all the nuts
sprout there will be a three-to-one chance for a healthy tree, and if
more than one good tree is produced in each hill the excess stock may be
transplanted. After the stock has grown for one year it should be cut
back to within four inches from the ground. Such stock makes good
material for experimental grafting. By pruning the stock in the spring
it forces new growth upon which to place buds later in the season. In
the budding process the Jones patch budder has been very successfully
used.
Along the southern shore of Lake Erie the first week in July is a
favorable time to begin this procedure. Due to the fact that the
northeast side of the tree is the coolest and shadiest the greater part
of the day, there the buds should be set. With the budding tool cut
through the bark of the stock, several inches above the start of the new
growth. Do not remove the bark. This produces a gathering of
callus-forming material at this point and aids in the healing in of the
bud which is to be later placed there. My experience shows successful
results in many instances where I had failed to make this previous cut.
Bud wood should be new and vigorous growth, the first five or six buds
nearest the spot from which the growth started being the best. When the
bud wood is available cut off the first four or five leaf stalks close
to the buds. By the time the buds are ready for use the remainder of the
leaf stalk will have ripened or dried and fallen off, and the bark
underneath hardened off. If this is not the case the bark is apt to rot
at this point, which is directly beneath the bud itself. Bud wood,
procured from any source, should be trimmed with the stub of the leaf
stalk cut as closely as possible to the bark. If the budding is not done
immediately those cuttings may be wrapped and stored in a cool place
(about 40 deg. F.) for several days before using. In a hot, dry season the
actual budding should be started soon after the middle of July. Due to
the excessive amount of rainfall during 1943, buds which were set on
July 24th yielded poor results, while those applied later in the summer,
about August 12th, healed in one hundred per cent.
Procedure: Cut the patch bud from the bud stick with the bud in the
center of the patch. Place this patch bud between the lips, as this is a
clean and convenient place to hold it. Next, cut the patch, which has
been previously marked out, and quickly place the new patch in the
opening, tying in place. As many as three or four buds may be similarly
set before they are coated with wax. Parapin wax (a paraffin and pine
gum mixture) is an excellent substance for coating the buds, due to its
rubber-like, non-cracking qualities. A convenient homemade contrivance
for melting the wax may be made by soldering a small can into the top of
a railroad lantern. Rubber bands of good quality have been made
especially for budding by several large rubber companies. These are
ideal for tying the buds in place and may be reused several seasons.
Treekote, an asphalt emulsion, has proven a successful substance for
coating the new work. After the buds have set for two weeks remove the
rubber bands and examine. Where buds have failed to heal in properly,
and room remains on the stock, new buds may be applied just below the
scar.
When the trees show signs of growth, the following spring, cut them back
to the top of the bud patch, cover the cut with Treekote and prevent all
growth on the original stock from developing. The placed buds are
frequently slower in starting than the natural buds. A stake driven
beside the young stock makes a convenient support for the rapid new
growth, which should be tied to prevent breaking by strong winds.
Trees started in the nursery may be transplanted to permanent locations
the following spring, inasmuch as the spring of the year has proven a
more satisfactory time for transplanting than the fall. To attain
success in transplanting the newly dug tree, roots should be exposed as
little as possible to the air. Prepare the holes before digging the
trees, moving one tree at a time for best results. Move as much of the
root stock as possible, usually about 18 to 24 inches. Trim roots with a
sharp knife, making a clean cut facing downward. Remove at least half of
the top growth of the tree and plant at once, tamping the loose dirt
firmly about the roots. Water generously and slowly around the loose
soil to aid in washing the dirt thoroughly around the newly disturbed
roots. With severe pruning, trees may be transplanted after new growth
has started. During periods of drought the soil around the trees should
be thoroughly soaked from time to time.
In conclusion, it may be said that due to varying conditions of soil,
climate and locality, for best results the proper time to bud may be
either earlier or later in localities other than northern Ohio. Various
factors may alter the procedure in those localities due to the
individual operator's experimentation, from which he has devised methods
giving him the best results.
* * * * *
Note: The trade-name items mentioned in this article may be obtained
from any reliable nursery supply house.
Northern Nut Growing
_By JOSEPH GERARDI, Illinois_
Judging from the demand for nut trees the public is fast becoming aware
of the possibilities of growing its own nuts. Heretofore nut growing has
been confined to two favorable sections of the United States, the west
coast and the southern pecan groves. But, now we can safely plant the
pecan as far north as Springfield, Illinois, and from all indications
some trees found in Cass County will extend the northern limit another
one hundred miles.
The pecan is the favorite nut of nearly everyone, in fact it is
preferred to any other nut for its pleasing flavor and easy cracking.
Wild nuts used to be gathered from native trees without consulting the
owner, but since they are selling at good prices the owners of trees
gather them themselves. Fortunately, through efforts of far-seeing
individuals some very good pecans have been found that can be grown
successfully much farther north than the southern pecan belt. Our nut
enthusiast, Dr. A. S. Colby, has drawn the attention of the writer to
three promising pecans that he located in Cass County, Illinois. This
extends the northern pecan limit much farther north than we formally
considered them adaptable.
For this locality we can now boast of quite a list of pecans that have
been doing well. Of the older introductions Greenriver and Busseron can
safely be recommended, and of course, the local finds are all good here,
at least the parent trees are doing so well that the public is planting
them in preference to the older introductions. West of the Mississippi
River Giles, Clarkville and Norton can be recommended.
Prospective pecan planters should bear the following remarks in mind.
Environment has a decided influence on the behavior of plants and the
nut tree is no exception. As they are taken farther north of their
original habitat the nuts become smaller and do not fill as well. The
black walnut may be considered an exception to this statement. Many
local finds and some southern pecans are perfectly hardy as far north as
Chicago and Ontario, but can not be expected to ripen any of their nuts.
Many southern pecan trees in this locality are wonderful lawn trees but
as bearers they are worthless.
The Black Walnut
The list of black walnuts is altogether too long. Of the numerous
introductions only a few are retaining their popularity. In this section
I would still plant Stambaugh for its cracking and bearing qualities and
its thin shell, but its flavor does not equal that of Thomas and Mintle.
The Mintle is smaller but a much better cracker than Thomas. It is also
a young and heavy bearer, grows fast and straight as a candle and grafts
easily. The Elmer Myers will become the most popular black walnut in
sections where it does well, provided its thin shell will withstand
machinery hulling without injury to the nuts. We have not fruited the
Myers as yet. The black walnut is fast rivaling the pecan, and for
confection surpasses it because it retains its flavor after being cooked
or baked.
Persian Walnuts
The Persian walnut in spite of its popularity does not appeal to me. Its
flavor can not compare with that of the pecan, hickory, or black walnut.
Besides, it is too exacting as to climate and soil. We have tried all
the supposedly hardy ones but so far only one will withstand our
changeable climate. This one came from a New York nursery and the name
was lost. We list it as the Schmidt for the man who owns the tree. This
tree is now some twenty years old and bearing well. So far it is
remaining healthy as also are the trees grafted from it. Our trouble
with all other varieties of this species is that they make a second
growth in fall and then succumb to frost. Of all the Broadviews,
Shafers, Pekins and Crath seedlings we have grafted in the last ten
years not one is now alive in this locality. Something puzzling to me is
that two Broadview seedlings we now have growing from seed I obtained
from Mr. Corsan of Islington, Ontario, are growing slowly but are still
healthy after the '40 and '41 seasons. All the rest of the trees from
this same seed succumbed.