Carlton--Buffalo close to the Fort--Fall of Snow--Decide to Winter
near White Fish Lake--The Grisly Bears--Start for the Plains--
The Dead Buffalo--The White Wolf--Running Buffalo Bulls--
The Gathering of the Wolves--Treemiss Lost--How he Spent the
Night--Indian Hospitality--Visit of the Crees--The Chiefs
Speech--Admire our Horses--Suspicions--Stratagem to Elude the
Crees--Watching Horses at Night--Suspicious Guests--The Cows
not to be Found--More Running--Tidings of our Pursuers--Return
to the Fort.
Carlton House, of which Mr. Lillie was in charge at this time, like
the other forts of the Hudson’s Bay Company, consists of a few wooden
buildings, surrounded by a high square palisade, flanked at each
corner with small square towers. It stands on the south side of the
Saskatchewan, in the low ground close to the river, and below the
high banks which formed the ancient boundary of the stream. The north
Saskatchewan is very similar in appearance to the south branch, but
of rather greater size. Situated between the vast forest on the north
and the prairie which stretches away to the south, it was formerly a
post of very considerable importance. But as the fur-bearing animals
of the woods have decreased, and the buffalo are often far distant, it
has ceased to be one of the most profitable establishments. When we
arrived there, however, we were gladdened by the news that this year
the buffalo had come up closer than usual, the bulls being but one and
the cows not more than two days’ journey distant.
The night after our arrival snow began to fall heavily, and continued
most of the next day, covering the ground to the depth of five inches.
But Mr. Lillie assured us that this could not be the commencement of
the winter, and would all rapidly disappear, to be followed by several
weeks of fine weather. And, in accordance with this prediction, a thaw
set in on the following day.
We had now decided, by La Ronde’s advice, to go into winter quarters
amongst the peaceful Wood Crees near White Fish Lake, about eighty
miles N.N.W. of Carlton, and situated on the borders of the endless
forest which stretches away to the northward. Here we should find
very good trapping grounds within 80 or 100 miles of the plains, and
the buffalo, who had already crossed the north Saskatchewan in great
numbers, might possibly advance within one or two days’ journey of our
position. We therefore transferred our winter supplies to the Fort,
and prepared for an excursion on to the plains to run buffalo, before
finally establishing ourselves for the winter.
Milton started with the carts next day; but two grisly bears having
been seen the day before within five or six miles of the place,
Treemiss and Cheadle set out at daybreak in search of them, intending
to catch up the carts, if possible, the same day. Directed by some
half-breeds, they rode on several miles, and then came upon the tracks,
which they followed for a considerable distance. But the snow had
rapidly melted away, and their skill was unequal to following the trail
on the bare ground. They were therefore compelled, very reluctantly,
to relinquish the pursuit, and returned to the Port grievously
disappointed. The footprints of one of the animals were of enormous
size, and showed in the snow with great distinctness. The length was
that of a man’s fore-arm, and the mark of the claws like the impress of
human fingers.
After dining with Mr. Lillie, they started after the carts, which they
regained at dark, after a hard ride of some thirty miles. We all arose
the next morning in great excitement, knowing that we might expect to
see buffalo at any moment, for even Milton, who was an old hand at
“running,” and had been out with the Great Fall Hunt, from Fort Garry,
two years before, could not conceal a certain inability to sit still,
and a restless, nervous impatience to be at the wild sport again. La
Ronde rode ahead to reconnoitre, and Treemiss, too impatient to wait,
followed him shortly after. We remained with the carts, expecting La
Ronde’s report. He did not return, however, and we presently came upon
a buffalo bull lying dead close to the track, a victim, doubtless, to
La Ronde. Several wolves were prowling about, and whilst the men were
engaged in cutting up the animal, we rode in chase of a large white
fellow. Milton led, and turned him repeatedly, but missed him with both
barrels, and Cheadle took up the chase, but with no better success.
We rode over him time after time, but failed to hit him, as he dodged
about under our horses, snarling and showing his teeth. The horses
were at length thoroughly blown, and the wolf gaining at every stride,
we gave up the chase. After riding seven or eight miles, we arrived at
the camp, long after dark, exceedingly cold and hungry, and much vexed
with La Ronde for keeping all the sport to himself. Treemiss had been
more fortunate than we, and produced, with great triumph, the tongues
and marrow-bones of two animals which he had killed.
We were under weigh very early on the following morning, and Cheadle
excited great merriment by the ludicrous appearance which he made,
bestriding a little roan mare of fourteen hands, which looked very
unfit to carry his big frame of thirteen stone. But Bucephalus was too
sorely galled to bear a saddle, and Cheadle, determined not to miss
the sport, despised ridicule, and went forth on the little cart mare.
After two or three miles’ travelling, the carts which were in front of
us suddenly stopped, and Voudrie came running hastily back, crying in
an excited manner, but with subdued voice, “Les bœufs, les bœufs, les
bœufs sont proches!” We rode up quietly, and saw a herd of nine bulls
feeding about a mile off, and other bands in the distance, about sixty
in all. Girths were now tightened, and guns examined, and then we went
forward at a foot’s pace, feeling in much the same nervous condition as
a freshman at the university in his first boat-race, waiting for the
sound of the gun which gives the signal to start.
We rode in line, with La Ronde as captain in the centre. When we
arrived within a quarter of a mile of the largest band, they began to
move slowly off; and La Ronde, imitating the lowing of a buffalo, the
other groups looked up from their grazing, and then trotted off to
join the main body who were still walking quietly along. We now went
forward at a canter, and the herd having collected together, broke
into a lumbering gallop; but we gained on them rapidly, until within
about 200 yards, when they went off at speed. La Ronde gave the signal
with a wild “Hurrah! hurrah! allez! allez!” and away we all went,
helter-skelter, arms brandishing, and heels hammering our horses’ ribs
in true half-breed fashion--a mad, wild charge, Milton leading on his
old red horse, and Cheadle bringing up the rear on the little roan
mare. As we closed with them, the herd broke up into bands of three
or four, and each person selected the one lying most favourably for
himself. A succession of shots soon told that the slaughter had begun;
but we were all quickly separated, and each knew nothing of the success
of the rest, until the run was over.
Buffalo running is certainly a most fascinating sport. The wild charge
together into the thick of the herd, the pursuit of the animal selected
from the band, which a well-trained horse follows and turns as a
greyhound courses a hare; the spice of danger in it from the charge of
a wounded animal, or a fall from the holes so numerous on the prairies,
contrive to render it extremely exciting. There is something also very
ludicrous in the appearance of the bulls as they lumber along in their
heavy gallop. Their small hind-quarters, covered only with short hair,
seem absurdly disproportioned to the heavy front, with its hump and
shaggy mane; and as they gallop, their long beards and fringed dewlaps
sway from side to side, whilst their little eyes roll viciously, as
they peep out of the forest of hair at the enemy behind them.
It was curious to see how the wolves seemed to spring up, as it were,
out of the ground, at the sound of the first shot. Two or three
appeared on every little eminence, where they sat watching the progress
of the hunt. When we left one of the dead animals, after cutting off
the best meat from the carcase, they began to steal towards it, and
before we had got many hundred yards, a dozen of them were tearing at
the body, and generally managed to pick the bones clean before morning.
In this run all were successful. La Ronde killed two, and the rest of
us one a-piece, even Cheadle making his appearance in due course on his
diminutive steed, with a tongue hanging to his saddle.
Whilst the men were engaged in cutting up the animals nearest at hand,
Treemiss, still unsatiated, started again in search of game, and
Cheadle set out with Zear to the animal he had killed, which lay above
a mile away. It presently began to rain heavily, and Milton went on
with the train, to camp in a grove of trees by the river-side. The rain
changed to sleet, and it became bitterly cold.
Evening began to close in, and still Treemiss and Cheadle did not make
their appearance. La Ronde rode out in search of them, and guns were
fired at intervals, to signal the position of the camp. A little after
dark, however, Cheadle arrived with Zear, drenched to the skin and
miserably cold. They had caught a glimpse of Treemiss several hours
before, as he passed them in full career after a band of buffalo. A
portion of the herd crossed about a hundred yards in front, and Cheadle
brought down the leader, to the great admiration of Zear. This delayed
them cutting up the meat until darkness came on, and they had some
difficulty in finding the camp. We continued to fire occasional shots
until after midnight, and raised a firebrand on one of the lodge poles
as a beacon, but were fain to retire to rest minus our companion.
At daybreak next morning all the men were dispatched in search, but
without success. Presently, however, a group of horsemen were descried
riding towards us, and proved to be Treemiss and a party of Crees.
After wandering about, the night before, until after dark, completely
lost, he turned aside into a clump of trees, and attempted to light
a fire. But matches, tinder, and wood were all wet, and he could not
succeed. Mounting his tired horse once more, he rode along for several
hours, drenched to the skin, and almost numb with cold. At length,
by a fortunate accident, he came upon an Indian camp, and was most
hospitably received. He was taken into the chiefs lodge, his clothes
dried, meat and Indian tea set before him, and as a cordial after, a
mug of warm water mixed with grease. Weary as he was, however, he
found it almost impossible to sleep that night. Both men and squaws
turned out continually to cook meat, smoke, or beat presuming dogs,
which were seized as they rushed out of the lodge by others lying in
wait at the door, and a general fight ensued. When morning came, he
made his hosts understand that he had lost his way, whereupon they
saddled their horses, and as if by instinct, led him straight to our
camp.
We shook hands with our visitors, and inviting them into the lodge,
passed round the calumet, according to the rules of Indian politeness.
For a long time they sat round with legs crossed, smoking in perfect
silence. At last, after some preliminary conversation, the chief, a
fine-looking fellow, dressed in a spangled shirt, a cap covered with
many-coloured ribands, and an elaborately-worked medicine-bag, rose and
made an oration in the Cree language. He delivered himself with much
dignity, his gestures were graceful and easy, and his speech fluent. He
said, “I and my brothers have been much troubled by the reports we have
heard from the Company’s men, who tell us that numbers of white men
will shortly visit this country; and that we must beware of them. Tell
me why you come here. In your own land you are, I know, great chiefs.
You have abundance of blankets, tea and salt, tobacco and rum. You have
splendid guns, and powder and shot as much as you can desire. But there
is one thing that you lack--you have no buffalo, and you come here to
seek them. I am a great chief also. But the Great Spirit has not dealt
with us alike. You he has endowed with various riches, while to me
he has given the buffalo alone. Why should you visit this country to
destroy the only good thing I possess, simply for your own pleasure?
Since, however, I feel sure that you are great, generous, and good, I
give you my permission to go where you will, and hunt as much as you
desire, and when you enter my lodge you shall be welcome.”
With this conclusion he sat down and resumed the pipe, awaiting our
answer. He had put the case so truly and forcibly, that we really felt
almost ashamed of ourselves, and should have found some difficulty in
replying, had he not ended his speech so graciously. As it was, we
merely thanked him for his courtesy, and made him and his companions
what we considered a very handsome present of knives, ammunition, tea,
salt, and tobacco. They did not seem satisfied, and wanted a gun,
blankets, and above all, rum. These we refused, and at length they took
their departure, apparently in good humour, although they intimated
that they doubted whether we were such very great people, after all,
since we had no rum. As they went out they viewed our horses with
evident admiration, and La Ronde became very uneasy, assuring us that
they were displeased with their reception, and would certainly follow
our trail and attempt to carry them off. We accordingly took measures
to evade their pursuit, and save our property. Moving forward three
or four miles, we encamped close to the river, as if about to cross,
and kept watch during the night. No alarm occurred, and the following
morning we turned off at right angles, travelling at great speed some
twenty miles, until we reached a small stream called Eagle River,
when we camped again. The weather favoured our escape, a dense fog
shrouding us from the view of any who might be watching our movements.
This was followed in the afternoon by a high wind, which, although it
dispersed the mist, raised the grass bent down by our passage, and thus
completely effaced our trail. At night we again kept diligent guard,
picketing all the most valuable horses close to the lodge.
We spent the next day in looking for the cows, but no sign of them
could be seen. We therefore resolved to spend a few days longer in
running bulls, and then return to the Fort. We were still obliged to
keep careful watch during the night, for the attempt on the horses
was more likely to be made after the lapse of some days, according to
Indian custom. Each took his turn on guard, and it must be confessed
we felt somewhat uncomfortable as we crouched in the shade of the
bushes alone, while all the rest were asleep. It was fortunately bright
moonlight, but the loose horses continually strayed out of view, and as
we stole round from time to time to drive them in, we half expected to
feel the hand of some ambushed Indian laid upon our shoulder, when we
passed through the thick underwood.
[Illustration: OUR NIGHT CAMP ON EAGLE RIVER.--EXPECTING THE CREES.
(_See page 68._)
]
One afternoon two Indians, youths of about seventeen, came to our
camp, and expressed their intention of honouring us with their company
till the morrow. We had strong suspicions that they were spies, but
invited them to sleep in the lodge, and redoubled our vigilance
in keeping watch. But the night again passed without alarm, and we
concluded that we had succeeded in throwing our pursuers off the trail.
After hunting several days more, with varied success, we made a rapid
journey back to the Fort, which we reached on the 8th of October. On
our way we overtook the Company’s train of carts returning, laden with
meat. Mr. Sinclair, who was in charge, informed us that when first the
hunters went out on the fall hunt, they found buffalo in extraordinary
numbers. Vast herds covered the ground in every direction, so that the
earth fairly shook again beneath their trampling, and at night sleep
was almost impossible from the constant lowing, and the tumult of their
passage. By the time he got there the large bands had been broken up,
and the cows, who are much wilder than the bulls, driven far to the
south. He also told us that he had met the party of Crees who had
guided Treemiss to the camp on the occasion when he lost his way. They
related the whole story to him, with the further information that they
had been much disappointed with us, and vastly smitten with our horses,
which they had made up their minds to carry off. Accordingly, a large
party cautiously followed our trail the next day, but when they arrived
at our old camp by the river--the point where we had turned off at
right angles--they were unable to trace us any further, and concluded
that we had crossed the river. We were greatly pleased to find our
suspicions were not groundless, and that the stratagem we adopted had
been so completely successful.