Now, the German is an excellent workman in his way. Patient, laborious,

conscientious, he has all the highest qualities of the ideal

brick-maker. He produces the best bricks, and you can generally depend

upon him to turn out both honest and workmanlike articles. But he is not

an architect. For the architectonic faculty in its highest developments

you must come to England. And he is not a teacher or expounder. For the

expository faculty in its purest form, the faculty that enables men to

flash forth clearly and distinctly before the eyes of others the facts

and principles they know and perceive themselves, you must go to France.

Oh, dear, yes; we may well be proud of England. Remember, I have already

disclaimed more than once in these papers the vulgar error of

patriotism. But freedom from that narrow vice does not imply inability

to recognise the good qualities of one's own race as well as the bad

ones. And the Englishman, left to himself and his own native methods,

used to cut a very respectable figure indeed in the domain of science.

No other nation has produced a Newton or a Darwin. The Englishman's way

was to get up an interest in a subject first; and then, working back

from the part of it that specially appealed to his own tastes, to make

himself master of the entire field of inquiry. This natural and

thoroughly individualistic English method enabled him to arrive at new

results in a way impossible to the pedantically educated German--nay,

even to the lucidly and systematically educated Frenchman. It was the

plan to develop "mere amateurs," I admit; but it was also the plan to

develop discoverers and revolutionisers of science. For the man most

likely to advance knowledge is not the man who knows in an encyclopædic

rote-work fashion the whole circle of the sciences, but the man who

takes a fresh interest for its own sake in some particular branch of

inquiry.

Darwin was a "mere amateur." He worked at things for the love of them.

So were Murchison, Lyell, Benjamin Franklin, Herschel. So were or are

Bates, Herbert Spencer, Alfred Russel Wallace. "Mere amateurs!" every

man of them.

In an evil hour, however, our pastors and masters in conclave assembled

said to one another, "Come now, let us Teutonise English scientific

education." And straightway they Teutonised it. And there began to arise

in England a new brood of patent machine-made scientists--excellent men

in their way, authorities on the Arachnida, knowing all about everything

that could be taught in the schools, but lacking somehow the supreme

grace of the old English originality. They are first-rate specialists, I

allow; and I don't deny that a civilised country has all need of

specialists. Nay, I even admit that the day of the specialist has only

just begun. He will yet go far; he will impose himself and his yoke upon

us. But don't let us therefore make the grand mistake of concluding that

our fine old English birthright in science--the birthright that gave us

our Newtons, our Cavendishes, our Darwins, our Lyells--was all folly and

error. Don't let us spoil ourselves in order to become mere second-hand

Germans. Let us recognise the fact that each nation has a work of its

own to do in the world; and that as star from star, so one nation

differeth from another in glory. Let each of us thank the goodness and

the grace that on his birth have smiled, that he was born of English

breed, and not a German child.

"Don't you think," a military gentleman once said to me, "the Germans

are wonderful organisers?" "No," I answered, "I don't; but I think

they're excellent drill-sergeants."

There are people who drop German authorities upon you as if a Teutonic

name were guarantee enough for anything. They say, "Hausberger asserts,"

or "According to Schimmelpenninck." This is pure fetichism. Believe me,

your man of science isn't necessarily any the better because he comes to

you with the label, "Made in Germany." The German instinct is the

instinct of Frederick William of Prussia--the instinct of drilling. Very

thorough and efficient men in their way it turns out; men versed in all

the lore of their chosen subject. If they are also men of transcendent

ability (as often happens), they can give us a comprehensive view of

their own chosen field such as few Englishmen (except Sir Archibald

Geikie, and he's a Scot) can equal. If I wanted to select a learned man

for a special Government post--British Museum, and so forth--I dare say

I should often be compelled to admit, as Government often admits, that

the best man then and there obtainable is the German. But if I wanted to

train Herbert Spencers and Faradays, I would certainly _not_ send them

to Bonn or to Berlin. John Stuart Mill was an English Scotchman,

educated and stuffed by his able father on the German system; and how

much of spontaneity, of vividness, of _verve_, we all of us feel John

Stuart Mill lost by it! One often wonders to what great, to what still

greater, things that lofty brain might not have attained, if only James

Mill would have given it a chance to develop itself naturally!

Our English gift is originality. Our English keynote is individuality.

Let us cling to those precious heirlooms of our Celtic ancestry, and

refuse to be Teutonised. Let us discard the lessons of the Potsdam

grenadiers. Let us write on the pediment of our educational temple, "No

German need apply." Let us disclaim that silly phrase "A mere amateur."

Let us return to the simple faith in direct observation that made

English science supreme in Europe.

And may the Lord gi'e us Britons a guid conceit o' oorsel's!

XII.

_A SQUALID VILLAGE._

Strange that the wealthiest class in the wealthiest country in the world

should so long have been content to inhabit a squalid village!

I'm not going to compare London, as Englishmen often do, with Paris or

Vienna. I won't do two great towns that gross injustice. And, indeed,

comparison here is quite out of the question. You don't compare Oxford

with Little Peddlington, or Edinburgh with Thrums, and then ask which is

the handsomest. Things must be alike in kind before you can begin to

compare them. And London and Paris are not alike in kind. One is a city,

and a noble city; the other is a village, and a squalid village.

No; I will not even take a humbler standard of comparison, and look at

London side by side with Brussels, Antwerp, Munich, Turin. Each of those

is a city, and a fine city in its way; but each of them is small. Still,

even by their side, London is again but a squalid village. I insist upon

that point, because, misled by their ancient familiarity with London,

most Englishmen have had their senses and understandings so blunted on

this issue, that they really don't know what is meant by a town, or a

fine town, when they see one. And don't suppose it's because London is

in Britain and these other towns out of it that I make these remarks:

for Bath is a fine town, Edinburgh is a fine town, even Glasgow and

Newcastle are towns, while London is still a straggling, sprawling,

invertebrate, inchoate, overgrown village. I am as free, I hope, from

anti-patriotic as from patriotic prejudice. The High Street in Oxford,

Milsom Street in Bath, Princes Street in Edinburgh, those are all fine

streets that would attract attention even in France or Germany. But the

Strand, Piccadilly, Regent Street, Oxford Street--good Lord, deliver us!

One more _caveat_ as to my meaning. When I cite among real towns

Brussels, Antwerp, and Munich, I am not thinking of the treasures of art

those beautiful places contain; that is another and altogether higher

question. Towns supreme in this respect often lag far behind others of

less importance--lag behind in those external features and that general

architectural effectiveness which rightly entitle us to say in a broad

sense, "This is a fine city." Florence, for example, contains more

treasures of art in a small space than any other town of Europe; yet

Florence, though undoubtedly a town, and even a fine town, is not to be

compared in this respect, I do not say with Venice or Brussels, but even

with Munich or Milan. On the other hand, London contains far more

treasures of art in its way than Boston, Massachusetts; but Boston is a

handsome, well-built, regular town, while London--well, I will spare you

the further repetition of the trite truism that London is a squalid

village. In one word, the point I am seeking to bring out here is that a

town, as a town, is handsome or otherwise, not in virtue of the works of

art or antiquity it contains, but in virtue of its ground-plan, its

architecture, its external and visible decorations and places--the

Louvre, the Boulevards, the Champs Elysées, the Place de l'Opéra.

Now London has no ground-plan. It has no street architecture. It has no

decorations, though it has many uglifications. It is frankly and simply

and ostentatiously hideous. And being wholly wanting in a system of any

sort--in organic parts, in idea, in views, in vistas--it is only a

village, and a painfully uninteresting one.

Most Englishmen see London before they see any other great town. They

become so familiarised with it that their sense of comparison is dulled

and blunted. I had the good fortune to have seen many other great towns

before I ever saw London: and I shall never forget my first sense of

surprise at its unmitigated ugliness.

Get on top of an omnibus--I don't say in Paris, from the Palais Royal to

the Arc de Triomphe, but in Brussels, from the Gare du Nord to the

Palais de Justice--and what do you see? From end to end one unbroken

succession of noble and open prospects. I'm not thinking now of the

Grande Place in the old town, with its magnificent collection of

mediæval buildings; the Great Fire effectively deprived us of our one

sole chance of such an element of beauty in modern London. I confine

myself on purpose to the parts of Brussels which are purely recent, and

might have been imitated at a distance in London, if there had been any

public spirit or any public body in England to imitate them. (But

unhappily there was neither.) Recall to mind as you read the strikingly

handsome street view that greets you as you emerge from the Northern

Station down the great central Boulevards to the Gare du Midi--all built

within our own memory. Then think of the prospects that gradually unfold

themselves as you rise on the hill; the fine vista north towards Sainte

Marie de Schaarbeck; the beautiful Rue Royale, bounded by that charming

Parc; the unequalled stretch of the Rue de la Régence, starting from the

Place Royale with Godfrey of Bouillon, and ending with the imposing mass

of the Palais de Justice. It is to me a matter for mingled surprise and

humiliation that so many Englishmen can look year after year at that

glorious street--perhaps the finest in the world--and yet never think to

themselves, "Mightn't we faintly imitate some small part of this in our

wealthy, ugly, uncompromising London?"

I always say to Americans who come to Europe: "When you go to England,

don't see our towns, but see our country. Our country is something

unequalled in the world: while our towns!--well, anyway, keep away from

London!"

With the solitary and not very brilliant exception of the Embankment,

there isn't a street in London where one could take a stranger to admire

the architecture. Compare that record with the new Boulevards in

Antwerp, where almost every house is worth serious study: or with the

Ring at Cologne (to keep close home all the time), where one can see

whole rows of German Renaissance houses of extraordinary interest. What

street in London can be mentioned in this respect side by side with

Commonwealth Avenue or Beacon Street in Boston; with Euclid Avenue in

Cleveland, Ohio; with the upper end of Fifth Avenue, New York; nay, even

with the new Via Roma at Genoa? Why is it that we English can't get on

the King's Road at Brighton anything faintly approaching that splendid

sea front on the Digue at Ostend, or those coquettish white villas that

line the Promenade des Anglais at Nice? The blight of London seems to

lie over all Southern England.

Paris looks like the capital of a world-wide empire. London, looks like

a shapeless neglected suburb, allowed to grow up by accident anyhow. And

that's just the plain truth of it. 'Tis a fortuitous concourse of

hap-hazard houses.

"But we are improving somewhat. The County Council is opening out a few

new thoroughfares piecemeal." Oh yes, in an illogical, unsystematic,

English patchwork fashion, we are driving a badly-designed, unimpressive

new street or two, with no expansive sense of imperial greatness,

through the hopelessly congested and most squalid quarters. But that is

all. No grand, systematic, reconstructive plan, no rising to the height

of the occasion and the Empire! You tinker away at a Shaftesbury Avenue.

Parochial, all of it. And there you get the real secret of our futile

attempts at making a town out of our squalid village. The fault lies all

at the door of the old Corporation, and of the people who made and still

make the old Corporation possible. For centuries, indeed, there was

really no London, not even a village; there was only a scratch

collection of contiguous villages. The consequence was that here, at the

centre of national life, the English people grew wholly unaccustomed to

the bare idea of a town, and managed everything piecemeal, on the petty

scale of a country vestry. The vestryman intelligence has now overrun

the land; and if the London County Council ever succeeds at last in

making the congeries of villages into--I do not say a city, for that is

almost past praying for, but something analogous to a second-rate

Continental town, it will only be after long lapse of time and violent

struggles with the vestryman level of intellect and feeling.

London had many great disadvantages to start with. She lay in a dull and

marshy bottom, with no building stone at hand, and therefore she was

forecondemned by her very position to the curse of brick and stucco,

when Bath, Oxford, Edinburgh, were all built out of their own quarries.

Then fire destroyed all her mediæval architecture, leaving her only

Westminster Abbey to suggest the greatness of her losses. But

brick-earth and fire have been as nothing in their way by the side of

the evil wrought by Gog and Magog. When five hundred trembling ghosts of

naked Lord Mayors have to answer for their follies and their sins

hereafter, I confidently expect the first question in the appalling

indictment will be, "Why did you allow the richest nation on earth to

house its metropolis in a squalid village?"

We have a Moloch in England to whom we sacrifice much. And his hateful

name is Vested Interest.

XIII.

_CONCERNING ZEITGEIST._

A certain story is told about Mr. Ruskin, no doubt apocryphal, but at

any rate characteristic. A young lady, fresh from the Abyss of

Bayswater, met the sage one evening at dinner--a gushing young lady, as

many such there be--who, aglow with joy, boarded the Professor at once

with her private art-experiences. "Oh, Mr. Ruskin," she cried, clasping

her hands, "do you know, I hadn't been two days in Florence before I

discovered what you meant when you spoke about the supreme

unapproachableness of Botticelli." "Indeed?" Ruskin answered. "Well,

that's very remarkable; for it took me, myself, half a lifetime to

discover it."

The answer, of course, was meant to be crushing. How should _she_, a

brand plucked from the burning of Bayswater, be able all at once, on the

very first blush, to appreciate Botticelli? And it took the greatest

critic of his age half a lifetime! Yet I venture to maintain, for all

that, that the young lady was right, and that the critic was wrong--if

such a thing be conceivable. I know, of course, that when we speak of

Ruskin we must walk delicately, like Agag. But still, I repeat it, the

young lady was right; and it was largely the unconscious, pervasive

action of Mr. Ruskin's own personality that enabled her to be so.

It's all the Zeitgeist: that's where it is. The slow irresistible

Zeitgeist. Fifty years ago, men's taste had been so warped and distorted

by current art and current criticism that they _couldn't_ see

Botticelli, however hard they tried at it. He was a sealed book to our

fathers. In those days it required a brave, a vigorous, and an original

thinker to discover any merit in any painter before Raffael, except

perhaps, as Goldsmith wisely remarked, Perugino. The man who went then

to the Uffizi or the Pitti, after admiring as in duty bound his High

Renaissance masters, found himself suddenly confronted with the Judith

or the Calumny, and straightway wondered what manner of strange wild

beasts these were that some insane early Tuscan had once painted to

amuse himself in a lucid interval. They were not in the least like the

Correggios and the Guidos, the Lawrences and the Opies, that the men of

that time had formed their taste upon, and accepted as their sole

artistic standards. To people brought up upon pure David and

Thorvaldsen, the Primavera at the Belle Arti must naturally have seemed

like a wild freak of madness. The Zeitgeist then went all in the

direction of cold lifeless correctness; the idea that the painter's soul

counted for something in art was an undreamt of heresy.

On your way back from Paris some day, stop a night at Amiens and take

the Cathedral seriously. Half the stately interior of that glorious

thirteenth century pile is encrusted and overlaid by hideous gewgaw

monstrosities of the flashiest Bernini and _baroque_ period. There they

sprawl their obtrusive legs and wave their flaunting theatrical wings to

the utter destruction of all repose and consistency in one of the

noblest and most perfect buildings of Europe. Nowadays, any child, any

workman can see at a glance how ugly and how disfiguring those floppy

creatures are; it is impossible to look at them without saying to

oneself: "Why don't they clear away all this high-faluting rubbish, and

let us see the real columns and arches and piers as their makers

designed them?" Yet who was it that put them there, those unspeakable

angels in muslin drapery, those fly-away nymphs and graces and seraphim?

Why, the best and most skilled artists of their day in Europe. And

whence comes it that the merest child can now see instinctively how out

of place they are, how disfiguring, how incongruous? Why, because the

Gothic revival has taught us all by degrees to appreciate the beauty and

delicacy of a style which to our eighteenth century ancestors was mere

barbaric mediævalism; has taught us to admire its exquisite purity, and

to dislike the obstrusive introduction into its midst of incongruous and

meretricious Bernini-like flimsiness.

The Zeitgeist has changed, and we have changed with it.

It is just the same with our friend Botticelli. Scarce a dozen years

ago, it was almost an affectation to pretend you admired him. It is no

affectation now. Hundreds of assorted young women from the Abyss of

Bayswater may rise any morning here in sacred Florence and stand

genuinely enchanted before the Adoration of the Kings, or the Venus who

floats on her floating shell in a Botticellian ocean. And why? Because

Leighton, Holman Hunt, Rossetti, Burne-Jones, Madox Brown, Strudwick,

have led them slowly up to it by golden steps innumerable. Thirty years

ago the art of the early Tuscan painters was something to us Northerners

exotic, strange, unconnected, archæological. Gradually, it has been

brought nearer and nearer to us on the walls of the Grosvenor and the

New Gallery, till now he that runs may read; the ingenuous maiden,

fished from the Abyss of Bayswater, can drink in at a glance what it

took a Ruskin many years of his life and much slow development to attain

to piecemeal.

That is just what all great men are for--to make the world accept as a

truism in the generation after them what it rejected as a paradox in the

generation before them.

Not, of course, that there isn't a little of affectation, and still more

of fashion, to the very end in all of it. An immense number of people,

incapable of genuinely admiring anything for its own sake at all, are

anxious only to be told what they "ought to admire, don't you know," and

will straightway proceed as conscientiously as they can to get up an

admiration for it. A friend of mine told me a beautiful example. Two

aspiring young women, of the limp-limbed, short-haired, æsthetic

species, were standing rapt before the circular Madonna at the Uffizi.

They had gazed at it long and lovingly, seeing it bore on its frame the

magic name of Botticelli. Of a sudden one of the pair happened to look a

little nearer at the accusing label. "Why, this is not Sandro," she

cried, with a revulsion of disgust; "this is only Aless." And

straightway they went off from the spot in high dudgeon at having been

misled as they supposed into examining the work of "another person of

the same name."

Need I point the moral of my apologue, in this age of enlightenment, by

explaining, for the benefit of the junior members, that the gentleman's

full name was really Alessandro, and that both abbreviations are

impartially intended to cover his one and indivisible personality? The

first half is official, like Alex.; the second affectionate and

familiar, like Sandy.

Still, even after making due allowance for such humbugs as these, a vast

residuum remains of people who, if born sixty years ago, could never by

any possibility have been made to see there was anything admirable in

Lippi, Botticelli, Giotto; but who, having been born thirty years ago,

see it without an effort. Hundreds who read these lines must themselves

remember the unmistakable thrill of genuine pleasure with which they

first gazed upon the Fra Angelicos at San Marco, the Memlings at Bruges,

the Giottos in the Madonna dell' Arena at Padua. To many of us, those

are real epochs in our inner life. To the men of fifty years ago, the

bare avowal itself would have seemed little short of affected silliness.

Is the change all due to the teaching of the teachers and the preaching

of the preachers? I think not entirely. For, after all, the teachers and

the preachers are but a little ahead of the age they live in. They see

things earlier; they help to lead us up to them; but they do not wholly

produce the revolutions they inaugurate. Humanity as a whole develops

consistently along certain pre-established and predestined lines. Sooner

or later, a certain point must inevitably be reached; but some of us

reach it sooner, and most of us later. That's all the difference. Every

great change is mainly due to the fact that we have all already attained

a certain point in development. A step in advance becomes inevitable

after that, and one after another we are sure to take it. In one word,

what it needed a man of genius to see dimly thirty years ago, it needs a

singular fool not to see clearly nowadays.

XIV.

_THE DECLINE OF MARRIAGE._

Men don't marry nowadays. So everybody tells us. And I suppose we may

therefore conclude, by a simple act of inference, that women in turn

don't marry either. It takes two, of course, to make a quarrel--or a

marriage.

Why is this? "Young people nowadays want to begin where their fathers

left off." "Men are made so comfortable at present in their clubs."

"College-bred girls have no taste for housekeeping." "Rents are so high

and manners so luxurious." Good heavens, what silly trash, what puerile

nonsense! Are we all little boys and girls, I ask you, that we are to

put one another off with such transparent humbug? Here we have to deal

with a primitive instinct--the profoundest and deepest-seated instinct

of humanity, save only the instincts of food and drink and of

self-preservation. Man, like all other animals, has two main functions:

to feed his own organism, and to reproduce his species. Ancestral habit

leads him, when mature, to choose himself a mate--because he loves her.

It drives him, it urges him, it goads him irresistibly. If this profound

impulse is really lacking to-day in any large part of our race, there

must be some correspondingly profound and adequate reason for it. Don't

let us deceive ourselves with shallow platitudes which may do for

drawing-rooms. This is philosophy, even though post-prandial. Let us try

to take a philosophic view of the question at issue, from the point of

vantage of a biological outlook.

Before you begin to investigate the causes of a phenomenon _quelconque_,

'tis well to decide whether the phenomenon itself is there to

investigate.

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