Another Itineration--Christians in Eul Yul--A Ride in an
Ox-Cart--Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen--Ox-Carts and
Mountain Roads--The Island of White Wing--A Midnight
Meeting--Thanksgiving Day in Sorai--The Circular Orders--New
Testament Finished--All in the Day’s Work--The Korean
Noble--Meetings of the Nobility.
We left Pyeng Yang about the 26th of September, 1900, by one of the toy
Japanese steamers, and reached Chinampo, a half-Japanese, half-Korean
port, at night. We were accompanied by three young ladies, one of whom,
a new arrival, wished to study methods; one who needed the bracing
effect of out-of-door country life in the north for a few weeks; and
one who had previously arranged with me to carry on a women’s training
class in Eul Yul that fall. We were obliged to spend the night in
Chinampo, but arriving late, we did not know where to find an inn, till
we met an old friend, Rev. Mr. Smart, of the Church of England mission,
who kindly found us a Japanese hotel. Here, after telling them our
nationality, our ages, our condition, past lives and future intentions,
and having been forced in spite of all protests to remove our shoes,
they condescended to receive us as guests, at an outrageous price. We
must not use our own camp beds, but the mats which had served no one
knew whom before us; nor might we have water in our rooms, but must
perform all our ablutions in the public hall on the lower floor.
Next morning we gladly bade our too particular hosts farewell, and
crossed the river in a wretched old junk, which looked as if it
were on the brink of dissolution. Fortunately, the weather was fine
and mild, and the river calm, else I am sure we should all have been
dipped, for even I had never yet beheld so dilapidated a craft. We were
all day on the river, only able to land after dark, thanks partly to
the nature of our vessel and partly to the tides, for which we were
forced to wait before landing.
The following night was hot, the inns nothing more or less than ovens,
and morning found us all in an unusually wilted condition, and to add
to the general misery, the young ladies of our party had made important
additions to their luggage, which threw us all four into the utmost
consternation. That evening we reached Eul Yul, where both men’s and
women’s classes were to be held. As usual the people crowded in to meet
us as soon as we arrived. Although harvesting was on and it was one of
the busiest times of the year, quite a number of women came to study
with us. They were so bright and receptive, it was a pleasure to teach
them. I had some very interesting visits with the women in their own
homes, and was edified to see the bright and practical way in which the
Christian who accompanied us talked with some of the unbelievers. One
woman was hesitating, fearing she was too ignorant or too wicked to
receive salvation, to which our native friend said, “Why, if you are
hungry, and a bowl of rice is set before you, you eat right then, and
just so if you want salvation, you have only to take and eat.”
The listener’s eyes filled with tears, it seemed too good. All the
time we were talking, another Christian woman sat with bowed head
asking God’s blessing on the word. In the examination of applicants for
baptism, I was much interested to see how carefully our native leaders
questioned them. “You say you sin daily, but ask God to forgive, and
so have a happy and calm mind. Is it then no matter that you sin?”
Again, to a woman who said her past sins were forgiven, and her present
sins were confessed every day, he said, “Well, then, what sin have you
committed to-day?” She could or would only speak in a general way, and
after various questions, mentioned nothing in particular. “But,” said
Kim, “is that honoring God, to go and confess you have sinned, and
ask him to forgive you know not what?” On Sunday twenty people were
baptized. During the communion service all eyes were streaming, and
some sobbed like children at the thought of what the Lord had suffered
for them.
In the afternoon our native elder, Mr. Saw, gave us a delightful
illustrated Bible lesson on the Christian armor, with illustrations
drawn and colored by himself, and with most appropriate references.
The native Christian was first represented in ordinary dress all
unarmed, and in succeeding pictures, one after another of the needed
articles, helmet, shield, sandals, breastplate and sword were added.
These illustrations were unique to the last degree and extremely well
drawn. In the evening an experience meeting was held, when one after
another told what the Lord had done for them. Some had been the slaves
of drink, and had fallen again and again after repeated attempts to
resist, in their own strength, but now for years had been free men in
Christ, and were looked upon as miracles of grace by their friends and
neighbors.
One man told something of his home life. He had been a dissolute
gambling fellow, whose reputation was well known through all the
surrounding counties. When he went home at night, after days of absence
and dissipation, his angry wife would scold and reproach him, and he
in return would beat and maltreat the poor little woman. “It was all
misery and discomfort, but now, all peace and love.” A neighbor who
came in often remarked on this exceptionally happy home life, wishing
hopelessly for something like it in her lot. She could not believe the
happy wife when she told her it had once been so different, and that
all this came through Jesus.
Then Mrs. Kim called in her husband and bade him tell if this was
true. “Why,” said he, “I’ll do more, I’ll give my bond for it, bring
paper and pen and I’ll write a bond to any amount you choose to name,
that if Jesus comes into your home there’ll be peace there.” “Why,”
said he, “people say if the Lord were only here now to do some of his
miracles every one would believe, but I tell you the Lord is doing
greater miracles now than he ever did on earth when he takes a vile
wretch like me and changes his heart.” One man had been afflicted with
an apparently incurable disease for over forty years, and now the Lord
had healed him; and one had been such a liar that no one believed his
honest statements, and yet now was implicitly trusted by every one.
It was decided before we left Eul Yul that the native Christians of
that district should employ two helpers or evangelists to work among
the ignorant believers of that vicinity, and that twelve Bible or
training classes should be held in the different districts in that
province during the year, six to be in charge of Mr. Saw, and six
taught by Mr. Kim Yun Oh, our most intelligent leader. From Eul Yul we
went to Pung Chun, while Mr. Underwood visited several smaller places
more difficult of access. Miss Chase and I divided the meetings, and
were most thoughtfully and attentively heard, the little room being
packed whenever we announced a service.
Our quarters were not of the best, as the only place assigned us for
preparing our food was a little corner of the cow’s stable. We have
heard of people who “keep the pig in the kitchen,” but to keep the cow
there was certainly a degree worse than our flightiest fancy, and we
at length rebelled, with the result that a more sanitary place was
found for our culinary performances.
After Mr. Underwood arrived, eleven people were baptized here. The
first public service for all was held in a hired room in the largest
inn in the place. The chief man, after listening to all that had been
said, arose and spoke to the crowd as follows: “We all know that what
we have heard is true, there is nothing left for us to say but that
from to-day on we will believe.” Some of the men who attended this
meeting remained outside the door at first, unwilling to be seen in
such company, as they were respectable gentlemen. After listening
awhile they condescended to step inside, and before the service was
over they had seated themselves in the front row, and admitted it was
very good.
Aside from our kitchen arrangements, and a little anxiety lest the cow
should conclude to visit us in our bedroom at night, and the persistent
cock crowing at my head from two in the morning, we had a lovely time
at Pung Chun.
Again at one of the little villages up in the mountains some of our
chair coolies deserted us, and there was nothing left for it but for
our two young ladies to ride in an ox-cart. They were a little doubtful
about this new mode of procedure, but the Koreans assured us it was
quite safe, and as our little son had traveled miles that way, we
encouraged them to try it, especially as it was a last resort. So with
many misgivings they perched themselves on top of the loads, and the
ox, a great spirited animal, was brought up. When Miss Chase asked if
he was to be trusted, they assured her with the statement that he could
fight any ox in the country. It was supposed a good deal of harnessing
would follow, but when a noose was merely slipped over a hook, and
with no warning the steed literally galloped off, we were all somewhat
startled, and the young ladies gave themselves up, with such a team
running away.
The ox-cart is extremely primitive, its two wheels have only the
clumsiest attempt at heavy wooden tires. The soft mud roads are full of
deep ruts, so that under the most favorable circumstances the bumping
and jolting are unspeakable. When therefore their mettlesome animal was
at length of a mind to pause a little in his mad career, they lost no
time in the order of their descent from that vehicle, and started off
at a brisk pace, evidently decided to walk all the way back to Seoul
rather than jeopardize their lives in such a contrivance and behind
such a creature again. However, the way was long, and before night
they changed their minds and resigned themselves to the ox-cart, when
his bovine spirits were a little subdued by his journey, and he was
somewhat less light and frisky than in the morning.
We arrived at Chil Pong, one of the villages perched up in the
mountains, early in the evening, but not so our loads, which the
country people manage in some miraculous way to drag up the steep
mountain roads on the ox-carts.
It turned out that the ox-cart in use that day was a very weak one and
gave out entirely, breaking down half way up the mountain. Another
had to be brought from a distance, and long delays ensued, where the
average speed is a snail’s pace, in spite of the experience with the
lively animal the day before. Fortunately by this time we had obtained
more coolies for the young ladies, so that our party were all together;
the little son having become such a walker that he seldom patronized
either chair or cart, and often walked twenty miles a day. One of the
helpers, Mr. Shin, said, as he came up with the loads, supperless
and quite tired out, at twelve o’clock that night, that had it not been
that he was determined the pastor’s wife must not go without her bed
and pillows, the cart would not have arrived at all. So tenderly do the
people care for the needs of their teachers.
[Illustration: MRS. KIM OF SORAI AND HER FAMILY. PAGE 244]
We found the mountains more beautiful, if possible, than ever. It
was October, and hills that in the previous spring were rosy with
rhododendrons and peach blossoms, were now scarlet, gold and purple
with the magnificence of autumn foliage, asters and golden-rod. There
was displayed on all sides some of the most brilliant coloring I ever
saw. There were quantities of bitter-sweet wreathing all over trees and
rocks, berries of many varieties, and bushes reminding me of that which
Moses saw in Horeb, burning but not consumed. And though in a different
way, still I too felt that the ground was holy with the unseen but felt
presence, and that it would be well to remove one’s worldly shoes,
which figuratively I did.
A few days later we crossed a mountain pass at over two thousand feet
elevation, where we found the scenery more and more beautiful and
wild. The gallant and unwearied “Captain” almost carried the rheumatic
partner of his travels up the last steep ascent. The alternative was to
sit in a chair and trust one’s self to a couple of tired coolies, who
might stumble and dash one to atoms; or with chipangi (alpenstock) in
hand, slowly drag one’s self up and then down over the rocks and steep
slippery road. Arriving at the foot on the other side, we were once
again in dear Sorai, where a good hot floor soon took out all the pain
and weariness.
It had been decided that from Sorai we were to visit a certain island
called Pang Yeng, or “_White Wing_,” where quite a number of people
were believing through the teaching of some of the natives. The story
is worth telling. A man, who had been banished to this island for a
political offense, had received a Christian book from his nephew, a
Methodist, just before his departure. The young man told his uncle that
this religion was the basis of all civil liberty and civilization,
so that the banished man in his loneliness proceeded to read it, and
to publish and teach its doctrines among the islanders. He had been
informed that on the opposite shore at Sorai lived people who could
further explain the book and its doctrines, so one of the natives, the
oldest and most honorable in the village, made a trip to Sorai, and
begged Elder Saw to return with him and teach them.
They were lamentably ignorant, and while believing in Jesus were still
carrying on heathen worship; they were as blind people only partly
restored, who saw men as trees walking. Saw was not able to go at
once, but after some time, when he visited them, he found the whole
village assembled with all preparations made for offering their heathen
sacrifices. He talked to them very earnestly and faithfully, and they
then at once gave up all their idolatrous worship, and in a body
promised only to serve the one true God.
The elder could not, however, remain long, and several months later,
when Mrs. Kim, the indefatigable voluntary evangelist, visited
them, she found that many of them seemed to have fallen back almost
completely into old practices and beliefs. At first no one would
receive her in their homes, but she talked to the women outside the
houses so sweetly and winningly, that they at length invited her in,
and gathered around her to listen. A great change was wrought through
her teaching.
We made the trip in a little Korean sailing junk, which was rather
small and uncomfortable for bad weather, but not at all out of the way
on such a day as that on which we started, with blue sky above, blue
and sparkling water below, and charming islands studding the sea like
jewels.
We found that White Wing measured about twenty miles round the coast
line and was nine miles long, with a capital and several hamlets. It
is extremely beautiful and fertile, well fortified by bold picturesque
cliffs along the coast, with delightful valleys and gently rolling
country snugly nestled behind them. The people are all farmers, living
in the simplest and most primitive way. Money is rarely seen, there is
indeed no need for it, with no fairs or stores. Their wants are few,
they raise what they need for food, clothing, warmth and light on their
little farms, bartering among each other to supply such simple articles
as their own labor has not provided.
All appeared to have plenty of rice and firewood, and to be quite
content. Drunkenness and dishonesty are almost unknown. The magistrate
told us they rarely needed even the slightest punishment, but were as
they seemed to us, a gentle, kindly, simple, honest farmer and fisher
folk.
We found a small church built on the hillside, and a little company of
believers, who were waiting for examination and baptism. Although very
ignorant, they were most anxious to be taught, and Mrs. Kim, who had
gone with me from Sorai, and I were kept busy instructing the women.
Like the women everywhere in Korea, they especially enjoyed the hymns,
and were most eager to learn them. The words were comparatively easy,
but the tunes were quite another matter. We realized the advantage
in their learning them, both as a means of fixing divine truth and
publishing it to others.
We were to leave very early in the morning to catch the tide, and the
night before we had a farewell service in the little church. When this
was over, and good-byes said, I went to the tiny room to pack our
belongings, and Mr. Underwood to one of the Christian houses to give
last directions and counsel with the leaders. About ten o’clock Mrs.
Kim came to my door with one of the women, asking very humbly if I
would go to one of their homes and teach them a little more this one
last time, though it was late. “We are so ignorant and have none to
guide and teach us,” said they pathetically. Of course I was delighted
to go, and followed them to a farmer’s thatched cottage. It was one of
the poorest and rudest of the native homes; in one corner a farm hand
was lying asleep, in another a tiny wick burning in a saucer of oil
was the only light in the room. We sat down under this, and the poor,
rough, hard-working women clustered round us as closely as possible.
Their faces and hands bore the marks of care, toil, hard lives and few
joys, but they were lighted with a glorious hope which transformed
them, and this with the awakening desire for knowledge had banished the
look of wooden stolidity, which so many Korean women wear.
While we talked of our Lord and his teachings and conned again and
again the hymns, a cough was heard at the door, and it was found that
a number of “the brethren” were standing out there in the cold, frosty
air of the November night, listening to such scraps of good words as
they could catch. So when one of the women asked if they might come in,
although generally out of regard for Korean custom and prejudice, I not
only teach no men, but keep as much out of sight as possible, there
were on this occasion no two ways about it, they must come, and in they
thronged. It was a picture which I shall never forget, the dark eager
faces, every one leaning forward in eager attitude, all seeking more
knowledge of divine truth, hungering and thirsting after righteousness.
A little dim humble room, and only such a poor feeble wick to light
them all. Such a poor feeble wick was I, and all were looking to me for
God’s light. “Feed my lambs,” was his last command, and yet in many a
hut and hamlet his hungry little ones are starving.
Next morning at the first streak of dawn they again came, and with
tears streaming down their faces, begged me to come soon again. “Oh, we
are so ignorant, and so weak, how can we escape the snares of Satan,
with no one here to lead and teach us!” they exclaimed.
Our return trip was very different from our first crossing. A severe
storm of wind and rain came up, the little ship was tossed about on
the waves like a plaything, and Mrs. Kim and I were miserably sick,
not to mention being drenched with rain. It was impossible to make our
port, and we were obliged to attempt the nearest coast, which offered
no shelter from the wind, in addition to which, the tide being out,
our boat was bumped about mercilessly on the rocks and stones with no
chance of a landing for some hours.
However, all things come to an end sometime, and we at length effected
a safe landing, and were soon dried, warmed and fed in a fishing
village at hand, and reached Sorai next day. Before we left Sorai, the
Christians held their annual Thanksgiving service. The church being too
small to hold all the people, a tent was spread outside. After thanking
God for their bountiful harvests and growing prosperity, they offered
thanks for the spiritual harvest he had given.
During the year over two hundred and fifty people of the neighboring
villages had been baptized through the missions and labors of this
one little church, not counting a much larger number of catechumens
received. They had enlarged and repaired their church and school rooms,
built a house for their school teacher, one for their evangelist and
another for the entertainment of strangers, who come from a distance to
the Sabbath services.
They are an open-handed people, and when they read of the famine in
India they took up a collection, amounting to fifty yen. As their daily
wage rarely amounts to more than ten cents gold, and as the community
is small, this was a large gift. Several of the women who had no money
put their heavy silver rings in the plate. These rings are in many
cases their only ornaments, and are most highly prized, so that when
they were given, we knew that our people were giving till they felt it
deeply.
In the famine so severe in many counties last year, Sorai, which was
more blessed, helped many of its sister communities. On our return to
Hai Ju we had some interesting visits with the women both in their own
homes and at our rooms. We were allowed to help prepare the “dock,”
or bread, which we found them making in one of the houses, for a
prospective wedding. They were having a “bee,” a number of friends
had come in to help, and they seemed much amused and pleased when we
asked to be allowed to assist. We were very clumsy and awkward, but we
gained our end by making them feel we were one with them. Later we were
invited to the wedding, and forced to swallow an amount of indigestible
food, which at other times we should consider as simply suicidal. But
when it is a duty, one simply shuts one’s eyes to consequences, takes
all risks, and comes through with an immunity which I verily believe is
miraculous.
One old woman, who attended the meetings very regularly and was very
devout, is quite a character. With a loud strong voice, but not the
remotest glimmering of a notion of harmony, time or tune, she shouts
away several lines and bars before or behind the rest, no consequence
which, and quite often, if the hymn chosen is not in her book or
according to her mind, she chooses another and proceeds as zealously
as ever. When gently remonstrated with, she replies, “_Oh, that is no
matter, I’m not following you, I’m singing (?) by myself._”
We had only been in Hai Ju a few days when a fleet-footed messenger
from Eul Yul arrived with a letter containing the news that a secret
royal edict was being sent round to the various magistracies in that
province, commanding all Confucianists to gather at night on the second
of the next month (about fifteen days later), each at his nearest
worshiping place in his district, and from thence to go in a body and
kill all Westerners and followers of Western doctrine, and destroy
their houses, churches and schools. A friend in the magistrate’s
office, holding some petty position, happened to be present when this
arrived, noted the excitement and agitation which the official evinced
on reading it and the care with which it was guarded, and determined to
learn its contents. He contrived an opportunity to read it unseen, and
as some of his near relatives were Christians, he at once communicated
the terrible news to them. One of the same family, a young man who was
a fleet-footed runner, was instantly sent to us with a copy of the
edict.
No words can express our state of mind on receiving the news. Thought
flew back to one peaceful little community after another, which we
had so lately visited, all rejoicing in the beautiful new life, all
growing up toward Christ, like flowers reaching up to the sun, with the
light of a glad hope in their faces, happy, harmless, kindly people,
the aged, the little toddling children, helpless women, unsuspecting
farmers, all consigned to utter destruction. As for ourselves, we were
in one of the worst of Korean cities, it was impossible to make the
slightest movement without attracting the notice of every one, for we
were constantly the center of the observation of the whole town. It
would be impossible to make our escape if any one wished to detain us.
To make matters much worse, we had two young ladies and a child in our
party. Probably little danger threatened us personally, as the governor
was friendly, but our first duty was to send word to the American
minister in Seoul, and it must be done quickly. To send a dispatch in
any Eastern or European language would be futile, as, if suspicion was
aroused, there were means of interpreting any of them. We at length
concluded to send a Latin message, not to our minister, but to one
of our mission, as less likely to attract attention either in Hai Ju
or Seoul. This was done, and the message was at once carried to the
American legation.
The news was at first received with incredulity, so friendly had the
attitude of the government always been, but when it was remembered
that recent Boxer disturbances in China might have suggested a similar
course here, and that there were strong Buddhists high in influence
at the palace who might have caused this strange measure, and when
at the Foreign Office, through admissions and contradictions, it was
made evident that the circulation of such an edict was not unknown to
them, all doubt was over. Not long after it developed that from similar
sources (that is, friends of Christians or of missionaries) the news
had been carried to missionaries in Kang Wha and in Pyeng Yang. That
it was unadvisedly done, and speedily repented, was proved by the fact
that a few days later another edict rescinding the first was sent
everywhere. Nevertheless and notwithstanding, I breathed freely and
slept well for the first time since hearing the bad news, when I found
myself on the little Japanese steamer well started on my way back to
Seoul. The supposed authors of the order were put under arrest, and I
believe punished, the Korean officials vigorously protesting that it
was all a mistake and sent without the knowledge of the king or the
government.
These trips to Whang Hai province usually occupied six or eight weeks
of our time, and full of delightful incidents and experiences as they
always were, did not represent more than a fraction of the work. In
the fall of 1900 the whole New Testament was given to the people. To
celebrate this event a large meeting was held in the Methodist church,
the largest audience hall in Seoul, composed of as many natives and
Christians as could be packed within its walls. A suitable thanksgiving
service was held, and the board of translators and their native
literary helpers were presented by the American minister with copies of
the book, with very kind remarks on their work. The board now consisted
of Rev. H. G. Appenzeller, Dr. Scranton, Rev. W. D. Reynolds, Rev.
James S. Gale and Mr. Underwood.
In addition to the editorship of a weekly religious newspaper, Bible
translation, preparation of tracts and hymns, city training classes,
weekly religious services and meetings, supervision of schools and
language class for missionaries, Mr. Underwood felt that a special
effort ought to be made for the nobility and gentry, the hardest people
in the country to reach with the gospel. This is the case, partly
because officials who would retain office must go at regular intervals
and offer certain prayers and sacrifices at royal shrines, partly that
the ideas of caste are so strong that the nobility are unwilling to
seat themselves on the floor in our churches among farmers, peddlers,
coolies, merchants or even scholars, to listen to the gospel; and in
addition, that their family life is grounded and interwoven on and in
the concubine system. All of them have two or more families, some of
them many. These numerous wives, their parents and progeny would make
life intolerable should the husband put them aside. His friends and
relatives would look upon him as too evil to live should he neglect
to worship the ancestral tablets, and the spirits of his ancestors
themselves would follow him like harpies, with all sorts of misfortunes
and diseases.
Each man, too, looks forward with great complacency to being honored
in his time as he has honored his dead parents, and seems to be
overwhelmed with something like terror at the idea of having no one
to worship his memory and offer sacrifices before his tablets, so
that childless men usually adopt sons to keep their memory green. The
ladies of this class, the first wives, are, as I think I have said
before, very closely secluded, and are never seen except in their own
apartments or the anpang of their kin, whither they are carried in
closely covered chairs.
In such a state of affairs it is not strange that men should hesitate
to listen to the doctrines of a religion which would turn their whole
social world upside down, wreck their homes, cast upon them the
blackest stigma, turn them outside the pale of court and official life,
rob them of their income, and rank them with the common people. Knowing
that it was almost impossible to induce them to attend church, an
invitation was therefore issued, asking a large number of them to come
to our house to talk over religious matters. To our surprise the call
was most heartily responded to, and two large rooms were crowded with
high Korean gentlemen, all of whom came no doubt from politeness or
curiosity.
There were princes, generals, members of the cabinet, all men of the
highest rank and birth. All listened with the closest attention, many
of them asking thoughtful questions, which showed their real interest
in what was said by the missionaries who came to assist Mr. Underwood
in receiving and talking with them. Some asked for books, and many came
repeatedly to talk over these matters in private. Meetings were held
regularly Sunday afternoons, and a stereopticon exhibition was given,
showing a series of scenes from the life of Christ.
One result of these meetings was that Mr. Underwood was approached with
the suggestion that he should establish a Presbyterian state church. We
were told that a large number of officials would prefer (if they were
to be forced into giving up their own religion and joining a foreign
church, as at that time seemed likely) to make it one of their own
choosing, and connected with Americans rather than Russians. They were,
of course, informed that we could not organize churches in that way,
nor baptize men for state and political purposes. The suggestion was
not official, but if we had been willing to use opportunities of this
sort, the roll-call among the high class of nominal members might have
been greatly swelled.