CHAPTER XIX

STRANGE ROCK FORMATIONS--GIBRALTAR

A huge projecting limestone rock, in form like a reclining lion, guards

the entrance to the narrow water passage which separates Europe from

Africa. This wonderful feature, the Rock of Gibraltar, extends directly

southward from the mainland of Spain with which it is connected by a

low, sandy isthmus. It is about three miles in length and in breadth

varies from one-fourth to three-fourths of a mile. Two depressions

divide it into three summits, the highest of which is about fourteen

hundred feet.

Let us visit the small city lying at its western base and then carefully

examine this leviathan sentinel that seems to stand guard over the

narrow strait. The special permission of the military commander to

examine it or even to remain in the city must first be obtained; we are

especially warned that cameras are forbidden and all negatives will be

confiscated.

The north face we find to have an almost perpendicular height of twelve

hundred feet; its east and west sides also display tremendous

precipices. The south face is much lower and slopes toward the sea.

Fortifications of massive walls and the best of modern guns protect the

lower parts and also the seaward side of the city.

But what are those holes high up on the faces of the rock? They are

portholes cut through the rock from interior chambers out of which

cannon can be thrust and discharged at an invading enemy. We are curious

to learn more about this interesting place, and on questioning our guide

are told many remarkable stories.

The Rock of Gibraltar is honeycombed with caves, passageways, and

chambers, some of which are natural and others artificial. We enter the

largest of these natural caves, St. Michael's, and as we stand in the

main hall, a spacious chamber two hundred feet in length and seventy

feet in height, we are amazed at its beauty and grandeur. Colossal

columns of stalactites seem to support its ornamental roof and all

around are fantastic figures--foliage of many forms, beautiful

statuettes, pillars, pendants, and shapes of picturesque beauty

rivalling those of Mammoth Cave. St. Michael's Cave is eleven hundred

feet above sea level and is connected by winding passages with four

other caves of a similar character.

[Illustration: This strong and impregnable place is the Rock of

Gibraltar, and the city nestling at its base, Gibraltar]

To six of the caves distinct names have been given. One of the caves is

three hundred feet below sea level. About three miles of passageways,

exclusive of many storage chambers, have been hewn so as to connect the

different caves and natural passages, and so large have they been made

that a wagon can be drawn through them. Within this rock are stored

supplies of ammunition and sufficient provisions to last several years.

In clambering about the rock we find cannon carefully concealed in

scores of different places ready for use when needed.

In places the rock is overlaid with thin soil which produces a variety

of vegetation. There are grassy glens, with trees, and luxuriant gardens

surrounding pretty English cottages. During the rainy season wild

flowers in great profusion spring up in all directions, but in the

summer the rock presents a dry, barren aspect.

This strong and impregnable place is the Rock of Gibraltar and the city

nestling at its base, Gibraltar. The city has a population of

twenty-five thousand, of whom several thousand are soldiers forming the

garrison. The garrison with their artillery, two pieces of which weigh

one hundred tons each, reinforced with the strongest of fortifications,

are thought to be capable of withstanding the combined hosts of

Christendom.

Early in the eighth century the Moors, perceiving the strategic

importance of the promontory, took possession of it and erected

fortifications. During the succeeding nine hundred years the fortress

was besieged no less than twelve times, and on several occasions was

captured by invaders.

At length it became a possession of Spain, and so strongly was it

fortified by the Spanish that it was thought to be impregnable. During

the War of the Spanish Succession, however, the combined forces of

England and Holland laid siege to it, and after a stubborn resistance

the garrison was forced to surrender. Forthwith the English took

possession in the name of Queen Anne and, strengthening the

fortifications, have held the fortress ever since.

Spain was greatly mortified by the loss of this stronghold which she

deemed rightly belonged to her. Several times during the ensuing

seventy-five years, single-handed, she laid siege to the citadel in the

endeavor to win it back, but each time she signally failed.

A seemingly auspicious time arrived in 1779 when she secured the

co-operation of France. For the succeeding four years a relentless siege

was laid to the fortress by the combined land and naval forces of Spain

and France. Both nations summoned to their aid their ablest generals and

admirals, using every conceivable device and strategy to capture the

fortress, but all in vain.

During the first years of this siege the supreme command of both land

and naval forces rested with the Spanish, but, having met with failure

after failure, they were ready at length to give way to the French, who

promised to capture the stronghold by constructing a powerful fleet of

battering-ships, enabling them to fight at close range, so that gun to

gun and man to man should decide the contest.

The French engineer who prepared the armament cut down the huge bulwarks

of the sides of ten of the Spanish battle-ships and proceeded to

reconstruct them within and without. The reconstructed ships were much

like the _Merrimac_, that did such destructive work in our Civil War,

except that they were not armored with iron. Triple beams of heavy oak

with layers of sand and cork between them were used for encasing these

huge hulks. For protecting the crews heavy timbers covered with rope and

hides were used.

On September 12, 1782, fifty line-of-battle ships flying flags,

together with a fleet of smaller vessels, lined up before the town. This

formidable fleet was supported on land by an army of forty thousand men

reinforced with batteries of the heaviest ordnance stretched along the

shore. To oppose these the English commander, General Eliott, had

ninety-six pieces of artillery and seven thousand men. So confident was

the enemy of success that the triple-armored battering-ships moved

boldly up to within half-gunshot range.

At a signal the English opened fire, which was instantly answered by the

floating batteries and the whole shore line; four hundred guns were then

playing on the beleaguered town. Soon death and destruction were made

evident on both sides. There seemed to be but one thing for the English

to do to save themselves, and that was to set fire to the enemy's ships.

Accordingly, furnaces were placed beside the batteries in which heavy

cannon balls were made white-hot. The guns, shotted with these glowing

balls, were then turned on the ships. The enemy attempted to guard

against the hot shot by continually pumping water into the layer of sand

between the wooden sheathing of the ships, and for a time succeeded in

extinguishing the fires.

It was not long though before the admiral's ship caught fire, and as

night drew on, the flames, indicating the position of the Spanish line,

furnished a mark for the English guns. At midnight ten of the besieging

ships were on fire. Rockets were thrown up and distress signals hoisted

to summon aid from their consorts.

The flames mounted higher and higher, illuminating sky, sea, and rock.

The shrieks of the wounded and dying filled the midnight air. When it

was found that the ships could not be saved, all discipline was lost and

a panic ensued. Hundreds perished miserably, while hundreds of others

threw themselves into the sea. Seeing the terrible destruction wrought

by firing hot balls, General Eliott ordered his men to man the boats in

order to save their foes from drowning and burning.

With the greatest heroism they scoured the sea, and, mounting the

burning vessels, dragged from the decks men deserted by their own

people. While performing these humanitarian acts several of the English

perished by explosions. Three hundred and fifty-seven of the enemy were

saved from a horrible death. The following morning disclosed a sea

covered with wrecks. A few days more of feeble bombardment ensued; then

a treaty of peace was signed.

From a strategic stand-point, the Rock of Gibraltar is easily Great

Britain's most important stronghold, because it guards the trade route

to her most important possession--British India. Practically all her

commerce with her Indian colonies passes through the Mediterranean Sea

and the Suez Canal. With either one in the possession of an enemy,

British commerce would not only suffer heavy losses, but it might be

destroyed altogether. So necessary is the command of the Strait of

Gibraltar to Great Britain, that to lose the Rock might also mean the

loss of British India.

At the present time Great Britain is continually adding to the defences

by building new fortifications and replacing the older guns with the

latest patterns.

In ancient times the name Calpe was applied to the rock of Gibraltar and

Abyla to the eminence in Africa on the opposite side of the strait, and

both of these eminences formed the renowned Pillars of Hercules. For

centuries no ships navigating the Mediterranean dared sail beyond these

pillars.

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