which should be started in the fall as early as the bulbs may be had.
This is often later than is desirable, but the matter is entirely beyond
control. The best that can be done is to get orders for foreign-grown
bulbs placed early in the fall. It is not necessary to wait for the new
catalogue, as the old will give the varieties and approximate cost. The
main thing is to get in the order early that it may be filled promptly
when the bulbs arrive. Orders received last are filled last. This means
not only considerable delay, but second choice in bulbs; the
first-comers secure the best, the last must take the cullings.
Having ordered your bulbs, proceed at once to make your beds. Better
results are obtained by planting Lilies in beds with fibrous-rooted
plants, hardy shrubs, and perennials that do not need frequent
disturbing. The Lily is very impatient of moisture, and water standing
around the roots in winter is absolutely fatal. A raised bed of Peonies
affords favourable conditions, provided there is sufficient room between
the plants for the Lilies to increase from year to year, as once planted
they should not be disturbed. If the Lily-bed is to be by itself an
angle of a building, or a portion of the grounds protected by trees, or
adjacent shrubbery, on the west and north, should be chosen. Such a
site, if well drained, will give good results. The bed should be dug
deep and mellow, and enriched with old, well-rotted manure. Strict
attention must be paid to this point—only old, well-decomposed manure
must be used. The bed should be sufficiently rounded to shed water.
Lilium candidum will be ready to ship in August, and should be planted
as soon as received. All Lilies are greatly injured by exposure to air,
and if it is necessary to keep them out of the ground for any length of
time they should be well wrapped in tissue-paper, or otherwise
protected. The Japanese protect their great auratum Lily bulbs from the
air by encasing them in a ball of clay before starting them on their
long journey to the far West. Candidum Lilies make a fall growth of
leaves, and must be planted early; no other Lily is as hardy and
satisfactory with us as this. They should be planted four inches deep
and a foot apart each way, that they may have room to increase, and left
undisturbed for years. The soil may be made very rich with manure, but
none of it should touch the Lily bulbs. Make a hole of sufficient depth
and size, put an inch or more of sand on the bottom, place the bulbs on
this and fill up with the sand, packing it closely all around the bulb.
Of the Japanese Lilies, rubrum is most easily grown here and should be
planted eight to ten inches deep. Planted deep they are not injured by
thawing and freezing, but when too near the surface the frost often
throws the bulbs out of the ground. Lilies are not injured so much by
freezing as by sudden and frequent thawings.
As long as the rubrum is doing well it should not be disturbed, but if
it suddenly fails to grow and bloom the bulbs should be taken up when
dormant, and cleansed. Remove all decayed scales and look for
worm-nests, which are usually the source of the trouble. Ants sometimes
make nests in the Lily bulb in the spring, and cause the top to decay.
When this occurs it should be lifted, cleaned, and reset in a place free
from ants. The greatest care must be exercised in cleaning bulbs not to
injure the sound scales, as that will only induce further decay.
All the speciosum Lilies are exceedingly beautiful. L. Album is one of
the finest; its reflexed flowers are a clear, sparkling white with a
green band through the centre of each petal, and a peculiar glistening
appearance, as though covered with water. It is one of the most easily
grown of the speciosum family. S. Roseum is another handsome variety,
white flushed with rose, and with dull crimson spots on the white
ground; while S. rubrum has large reflexed petals of frosted white,
heavily bearded and spotted with rich crimson, with many glistening
points of white. Aside from the speciosum Lilies there are many other
fine Japanese Lilies, the auratums easily leading in size and beauty.
While Krameri is a tube-shaped Lily of a soft pink; longiflorum has
lovely trumpets of pure white; the wonderful Lilium giganteum, six to
ten feet high, sends up immense clusters of twelve to twenty creamy
white flowers, with purple throat. Washingtonianum is another tall
variety bearing large clusters of delicate white flowers spotted with
black, and the grand and rare Brownii shows a chocolate-purple outside
with a creamy interior. The list is long, but with a generous planting
of well-selected varieties a succession of bloom may be had from the
first blooming longiflorums and candidums in June until auratum and the
late speciosums cast their ivory petals in September.
The general treatment of all is the same: deep planting, keeping the
manure from actual contact with the bulbs by packing in sand;
well-drained soil and the presence of fibrous-rooted or perennial plants
near enough to absorb the surplus water from the soil. During the hot
weather, give a heavy mulch of lawn clippings brought well up around the
stems, and water as needed. If planted deep they will hardly require
staking, as the stalks send out surface roots which not only afford
nourishment, but also act as a brace to the plant and hold it firmly in
its place.
[Illustration: A PORTION OF THE GROUNDS PROTECTED BY SHRUBBERY IS THE
PLACE FOR THE LILY-BED]
A heavy mulch of old manure and rough litter should be given in the
winter, and the bed protected with leaves and evergreen boughs, or
anything that will shed water.
Spring-planted bulbs rarely do well. It is better to plant after severe
cold weather sets in than to wait until spring. As long as the ground
can be worked they may be planted safely, but they should be set eight
or ten inches deep. I have planted them late in December—when the ground
had to be broken with an axe—and have had excellent success.
The planting of hardy Lilies should be done on a scale limited only by
one’s means and the ground at command. A few new and rare sorts should
be added every year. In this way a magnificent collection will, in time,
be acquired, as they increase very rapidly under favourable conditions,
and the larger the clumps of one kind the finer the effect, so that each
variety should be given abundant room to spread and develop.
It is often stated that Lilies left to themselves place their bulbs near
the surface. Such bulbs are the small ones that form on the blossom
stalk above the main bulb, and lie near the surface from force of
circumstances. The main bulb sends its offshoots deep in the ground, as
in the case of our native Lilies, which are almost impossible to dig.
Especially is this the case with the native Flame Lily, the bulb of
which I have never been able to reach with a trowel. Travellers in Japan
report various native Lilies growing in forests among the interlacing
roots of the trees, quite out of the reach of any small tools. There the
auratum Lily grows on wooded hillsides where the drainage is perfect,
and the falling leaves give a deep mulch at all times, and supply the
best of nourishment, leaf-mould, and the roots of the trees absorb all
superfluous moisture.
Chapter _SEVENTEEN_
Care of Cannas, Caladiums, Dahlias, and Other Bulbs during Winter
Fall Bulbs, Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocus, Scillas, and the Like
The first hard frost in September—about the 20th inst. at the North—is
usually followed by a few weeks of mellow fall weather. If one has been
so fortunate as to have saved Cannas, Caladiums, and other tender
bulbous plants by night protection or by turning the hose on very early
in the morning before the sun reaches them, they will grow and ripen
well in these last warm days. These sudden falls of temperature usually
find the gardener unprepared, and unless water is at hand plants will be
cut down by frost. When this happens remove, with a sharp knife, the
frozen portions, and consign to the compost heap. If allowed to remain,
these not only give the yard a most untidy appearance, but the decay is
likely to extend to the bulbs. The plants may then be left to ripen in
the ground for several days, according to the weather, or the necessity
of preparing the ground for other plants.
Dig all roots to be saved on a warm, sunny day, and dry in the sun for
several days if the weather is fair and warm. Cover with blankets at
night or leave them on the floor of a sunny room until the earth about
their roots is dry, pack in boxes of dry earth or sand, and store in a
dry, frost-proof cellar.
Dahlias and the common tall Canna are easily wintered in a warm, dry
cellar. The large Orchid-flowered Cannas are much more difficult to
winter, and are very apt to dry-rot under the most favourable
circumstances. I have found laying on the ground (under the steam-pipes
where they are run outside the cellar) and covering with dry earth a
very good way of handling them. They should be examined occasionally,
and if they seem too dry sprinkle with water. If the Caladium bulbs show
any decay of the centre-shoot all the decayed parts should be pulled off
down to sound tissue. Parts of Cannas broken in digging should be
removed with a sharp knife. Where there is but a small quantity of
roots, shave off the dirt and wrap the tuber in tissue-paper. Store on a
shelf in a closet, or other convenient frost-proof place. There is no
more uncertain root to carry through the winter. Florists often lose
their entire stock by decay or dry-rot, and were it not for this the
Canna would soon become a drug on the market, and only novelties have a
sale.
Dahlias are much more easily wintered, doing well in any cellar that
will keep potatoes in first-class condition. All roots wintered in
cellars should be placed on elevated shelves or tables away from the low
temperature of the floor—on a swinging shelf, if the cellar is
frequented by rats and mice.
Gladioli will keep perfectly if stored in flour-sacks and hung from a
beam or post near the ceiling. Montbretias may be wintered in the same
way.
When the Cannas, Caladiums, and other summer plants are out of the way
the beds may be prepared for the fall planting of bulbs for early spring
blooming. The vacant foliage-beds on the lawn offer the best place, as
the bulbs will have played their part and passed on by the time these
are needed again for the summer occupants.
If the beds have been lowered owing to limited water-supply haul on a
few wheel-barrow loads of very old manure and earth, and mix thoroughly
with the soil, raising them sufficiently to shed water. If permanent
bulb beds are preferred (which may be planted with annuals in the
summer) choose an exposure slanting toward the south, if possible, as
this will insure earlier flowers. See that the soil has good natural
drainage, or, if this is lacking, supply it by excavating to a depth of
eighteen to thirty inches, and placing several inches of broken stone or
crockery in the bottom for drainage. Return the soil to the bed, making
it mellow and fine. The earlier the bulbs are planted the more roots
will be started before the ground freezes, but late fall or winter
planting, providing the ground is not frozen, is preferable to spring
planting. Spring-planted bulbs rarely amount to anything, having lost
much of their vitality by being so long out of the ground.
A bed facing the south is warmer and earlier than any other, hence it is
sometimes liable to a set-back—if not actual injury—from a sudden sharp
frost after the plants have started in the spring, and the litter should
not be wholly removed until it is entirely safe to do so. An ideal bed
for early bulbs would be one on the south side of the house, sloping
slightly toward the south, with a frame around it somewhat higher at the
back, over which a canvas attached to hooks could be drawn on cold
nights and days. The frame should be made so that it could be readily
lifted on the approach of warm weather.
Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissi look far better when planted each in a
bed by themselves, as they are not at all in harmony. Plant Hyacinths
seven inches apart and four inches deep, either in beds of vivid colours
without other order than a regular distance apart, or according to some
colour arrangement or geometrical design. Tulips should be planted four
inches apart each way and four inches deep. A good arrangement is to
draw lines across the bed forming squares—four inches for Tulips, seven
for Hyacinths—and set a bulb at each corner. The centre of the square
may be filled with Crocus or Scillas, which will have finished blooming
before the larger flowers are out. Only Tulips of the same height and
season of bloom should be set together.
Scillas and Crocus together make a bed that can hardly be surpassed in
bulb planting. The effect is best where only the white Crocus is blended
with the blue of the Scillas.
Protect the bulb beds with rough manure, leaves, and evergreen boughs
during winter. Remove the protection gradually in the spring, and leave
the finest of the manure to enrich the soil.
When through blooming in the spring, and the foliage has ripened, the
bulbs may be lifted, dried, and stored away in a cool place until fall.
All these bulbs increase rapidly, both by multiplying and by seed.
Neglected beds of Tulips seem to multiply and perpetuate themselves
indefinitely, but the new plants will be found to be all from seed, as
the Tulip forms its new bulbs at the base of the old, and if they were
not frequently taken up and reset they would grow so deep in the ground
that all the strength of the plant would be exhausted reaching the
surface, and there would be no bloom. The seedlings make robust plants,
and do not deteriorate materially.
The seed formation of the Crocus is very interesting. If dug a few weeks
after its season of bloom is over, under the ground, below the blossom,
the stem will be found to have expanded into a long chamber or cell as
large around as a lead-pencil and an inch or more in length. Open this
and it will be found full of exquisite pink pearls; these are the seeds.
As they ripen they become nearly black, the cell bursts, and the earth
receives them. The Scilla lengthens its flower-stems until they lie on
the ground, forming large seed-pods filled with white pearls. When the
plants are taken up, if these little seeds are saved the stock will
increase much more rapidly.
The beds are often wanted for other plants before the foliage has had
time to ripen. In that case the bulbs may be lifted and heeled-in, in
some out-of-the-way place, until ripe, care being taken to preserve the
seed-pods. Heeling-in means digging a shallow trench, laying in the
roots of the plants in a row, and covering them with earth. They must be
lifted when ripe and not allowed to grow.
A pretty way to grow the Scilla, Crocus, and Snowdrop is to scatter them
on the lawn in the grass, planting singly or in clumps. Lift the sod
with the trowel and slip the bulbs under, right side up, leaving them to
care for themselves. Plant hundreds in this way; they will be through
blooming by the time the grass needs cutting.
The various varieties of Narcissi should be planted in permanent beds or
borders, where they need not be disturbed except as it is necessary to
divide them. They should be set four inches deep and twelve inches apart
each way, that they may have room to increase. The new bulbs of Narcissi
form in a cluster around the old, and unless allowed to develop freely
will not bloom. If set the proper distance apart they will need to be
taken up but once in four years. Do not wait for them to show signs of a
crowded condition, but move on schedule time, and keep them blooming
continuously. All the Narcissi, except the Polyanthus, are hardy, and
all are lovely—especially the large trumpet sorts. Emperor and Empress,
Horsfieldi, and Sir Watkin are especially good in the open grounds.
Poeticus, P. ornatus, Alba plena, Odorata, and Von Sion all make
beautiful borders.
There are a few other bulbs for fall planting that are hardy all over
the country. The Chionodoxa, Glory of the Snow, is a recent introduction
from Asia Minor. Like the Scilla it is blue, a rare and desirable colour
in spring flowers. Winter Aconite, with its tiny, golden-yellow flowers,
the first of the spring; Wood Hyacinths, Dog-tooth Violets,
Fritillarias, Crown Imperials, and Snowdrops are all worth a place.
The bulbs advertised by the seedsmen as hardy in a temperature like that
of Philadelphia may not prove hardy in Canada, Michigan, Northern
Illinois, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Dakota, and this must be borne in mind
when purchasing same. The safest way, when in doubt, is to address a
letter of inquiry to the dealer offering the plants, in regard to
suitability for your particular climate.
Bulbs for winter blooming. I have come to the conclusion that almost
anything will grow and blossom if given the proper care. For the
amateur, whose only field is the sitting-room window, it is better to
undertake only those varieties with which one may be sure of success
under ordinary care, as the Hyacinth, Narcissus, Scilla, Crocus,
Anemone, Ornithogalum arabicum, and Freesia. These are absolutely sure
bloomers, and much more reliable in the matter of producing flowers than
a Geranium. In selecting Hyacinths the single will generally give better
satisfaction than the double, and there should always be a generous
proportion of white among the colours selected. Alba superbissima,
Baroness Van Thuyl, and La Grandesse are among the best whites; Norma
gigantea, Roi des Belges for pinks and reds; Ida is the best yellow; and
Czar Peter and Grand Lilas the best blues.
Among the Narcissi nothing finer than the large trumpet varieties could
be desired: Horsfieldi, with its yellow trumpet and snow-white perianth;
Sir Watkin, or the Giant Welshman, as it is sometimes called; Empress
and Emperor and the clustered Paper White are all exquisite; and the old
double Von Sion is most effective in the window-garden.
[Illustration: TURN OUT BALL OF EARTH TO ASCERTAIN IF POT IS FILLED WITH
ROOTS]
Hyacinths and Narcissi require the same treatment: Pot as early in the
fall as they can be obtained, using good compost and sufficient broken
charcoal to insure good drainage; fill to within an inch of the top with
the soil, using a four-inch pot for a single bulb or a six-inch one for
three bulbs. Place the bulb with the tip slightly above the surface of
the soil, label plainly with name and date of planting, and set away in
a dark box in the cellar for six weeks or more, or until the pot is well
filled with roots; this can be ascertained by turning the ball of earth
out of the pot. If the earth is not well covered with roots return to
the box for a few days longer. If there is sufficient root growth place
in a warm, sunny window in a temperature of about 70°. When first potted
they should be well watered, and thereafter kept merely moist, but on
bringing to the light and heat they should have water in the saucer most
of the time. When the flowers are fully expanded they may be moved into
a cooler, less sunny window, where they will remain in perfection much
longer.
Anemones give beautiful winter blossoms and require practically the same
treatment as Hyacinths. The bulbs are placed an inch and a half below
the surface. They are queer, shrivelled-up little things, with roots
which fill up surprisingly after being in the damp soil. When up and
growing they require abundant water and sunshine. Keep the saucer full
of water all the time; failure in this respect means blasted buds. As
Anemones give a succession of flowers they must be left in the window
until through blooming. Tulips, Crocus, and Scillas should be potted and
placed out of doors where they will not be disturbed, covered with earth
and left until freezing weather, when they should be stored in the
cellar like other bulbs. It is well in placing bulbs out of doors to set
the pots in beds of coal-ashes to prevent the entrance of worms into the
soil. They may be covered with ashes instead of earth, the object being
to give them the benefit of the frost.
A half dozen Scillas planted in the centre of one of the large round
gourds and surrounded with a border of white Crocus makes a very pretty
show, and will come into bloom in about three months from the time of
planting. The Ornithogalum is an effective flower, and quite sure to
bloom, but requires a rather high temperature, as it is of slow
development.
Freesia bulbs deteriorate very rapidly once they are out of the ground,
and should be ordered early and potted as soon as received. Plant a
dozen in a five-or six-inch pot, and set at once in a warm east window,
as these do not need to go to the cellar. The leaves and stalks are very
tender, and will require support, and this is the greatest objection to
the Freesia. Ashes in the soil will counteract this tendency somewhat,
and the wire carnation supports are very neat and satisfactory.
Alliums, which have the same defects, require the same treatment.
The varieties of Oxalis are usually started in a sunny window, as they
require a strong light. Like the summer bloomers, they increase rapidly
and need considerable root room. The Bermuda Oxalis is lovely in a gourd
hanging-basket; indeed, a hanging-basket, or bracket, is the only
suitable arrangement for it, as it loves to droop and spread itself, and
requires abundant room for its wealth of golden flowers. When through
blooming it should be allowed to ripen its foliage. It may then be set
in the cellar, or a cool place, until September, when the bulbs should
be shaken out of the pot and repotted; one bulb to a four-inch pot.
Bulbs of hardy plants may be ripened off, and in the spring planted out
in the open ground, where they will bloom the following spring, but are
valueless for forcing in the house.
Chapter _EIGHTEEN_
Hardy Shrubs and Plants for Fall Planting
In some localities, especially in the South, the practice of setting out
hardy plants in the fall has much to commend it. The mild winters,
during which growth is never entirely checked, allow the plants to fully
establish themselves; but in the Northern States, where the severe
winters set in early and last long, the plants do not become
sufficiently established to stand the severe cold followed by the hot
summer. They sometimes live through the one only to succumb to the
other.
Plants moved from one part of the grounds to another will frequently
winter-kill, while those left undisturbed will be found in excellent
condition in the spring. Again, a plant may come through the winter in
apparently good condition, but without sufficient vitality to withstand
any severe heat or drought, and failure to recognise this condition
results in loss. Plants transplanted in the fall, however hardy their
character, should receive particular care during the following summer in
the matter of water, cultivation, and mulching. Plants transplanted at
any time of year will do better if the top growth is reduced by trimming
or cutting back, and all broken or injured roots removed with a sharp
knife.
Spring-planted shrubs rarely fail to do well if the precaution is
observed of moving them while dormant. The only exception I need to
mention being the various Irises when purchased from florists. These,
being dug in the fall, and kept in cold storage during winter, have
their vitality much depleted by spring, and are then of doubtful value.
This is especially true of the Japanese Iris; the German and English,
being much more hardy, are not so easily injured. Home-grown Iris would
better be moved in the spring.