Outside Window-boxes
The outside window-box is a thing of beauty if well cared for, a
disfigurement if neglected. So greatly does it add to the cheerfulness
and apparent size of the rooms under the windows of which it is placed
that I should advise its use whenever practicable. One of my pleasantest
recollections is a window-box full of Heliotrope under a sitting-room
window, filling the room so full of perfume that going into it in the
early morning was like stepping into a garden of fragrance.
Window-boxes do well in any window not shaded by porches, and the plants
best suited to the light may be selected. Many plants too tender to bed
out in the open ground may be trusted to the window-box. Fuchsias,
Ferns, Asparagus Sprengeri, A. tenuissimus, Ageratums, fancy-leaved
Caladiums, and various tuberous-rooted Begonias, like the
silver-spotted, known as Angel’s Wing, are all lovely in the window-box.
Rubra and most of the Begonias do admirably in a north window. For
windows facing the street, where effect is principally sought, bright
Geraniums, Heliotropes, Coleus, Crotons, and similar plants are
preferable, provided there is sufficient sunshine to bring out all their
rich colouring.
The fancy-leaved Caladiums may be used where bright effect is sought in
a north window.
The boxes used for this purpose should be as ample as possible, the full
length of the window-casing outside and at least a foot wide and deep.
They should be made of inch boards, closely fitted together so that the
sides shall not warp and allow the water to run through too freely,
washing out and exhausting the soil. A hole may be made in the bottom at
one end, and provided with a plug, for the escape of surplus water
during continued rains. A piece of broken crock or other drainage must
be placed over the hole on the inside of the box to prevent the earth
working in and obstructing the free passage of water. The hot air of
summer will shrink the earth away from the sides of the box, leaving a
channel for the water to escape without properly soaking the soil; but
if the surface of the soil is kept open, and the centre left a little
lower than the sides, this will be prevented. A little experimenting
will show just how much water is needed to wet the soil properly without
letting it run away, and this amount should be used daily during dry
weather. Only as many plants as will do well in the limited space of
four square feet should be planted in the window-boxes. Five erect
plants and three vines are enough for a box of that size, and even these
may need attention before the season is over, especially if in south or
west windows. North or east boxes will, usually, keep their contents
fresh until frost; but a west or south light makes great demands upon
the vitality of plants confined within the limited area, and it is a
good plan to leave Geraniums and similar flowers in their pots, that
they may be easily exchanged for others when they grow shabby, cutting
back and repotting the old ones for winter blooming if removed not later
than August.
A better plan is to have two boxes; starting one in the house in March,
that it may be ready to place as soon as danger of frost is past; and
the second in June, that it may be ready to replace the first when
needed. For the latter the vines started in the house, or hotbed, in
April will be available. Maurandya, Thunbergia, and the like, and many
flowers from seed will have reached sufficient size to be used for the
second box. Plants that have been carried over from another season, or
purchased from the florist, will be necessary for the first boxes. There
is no more beautiful vine for a window-box than the Maurandya; it drapes
more gracefully than any other vine I know (unless it be the Wild
Cucumber, which attaches itself to the window-screen in wreaths of
exuberant bloom, drooping far below the window-box, and making a lovely
background for scarlet Geraniums). Its only fault is that it will grow
shabby before the season is over, when it had better be pulled up and
replaced by a fresher vine that has been grown in a pot for the purpose
and can be slipped into place without checking its growth.
[Illustration: OUTSIDE WINDOW-BOXES]
Perhaps no plant is more satisfactory for a south or west window-box
than a good Geranium—either the dark, rich vermilion of the S. A. Nutt,
or the vivid scarlet of the Bruant. Both of these appear to better
advantage when contrasted with white flowers. Camphor Geranium is
excellent, being a freer bloomer than other white Geraniums, and the
Giant White Antirrhinum is especially vivid. Double white Petunias and
white Phlox Drummondi are also good. Purple Ageratums and Heliotrope are
charming with scarlet and white. The large-flowered Ivy
Geraniums—Souvenir de Charles Turner—are the best, and do finely in east
and west window-boxes, while the variegated variety makes a lovely mass
of pendent foliage for an east or north box. Trailing Fuchsia, Japanese
Morning-glory, Glechoma, and Wild Cucumber all do well on the north side
of the house. The following combinations may all be depended upon to
give satisfactory results:
Southern Exposure.
No. 1.
Bruant Geranium White Antirrhinum. S. A. Nutt Geranium
(scarlet). (cardinal).
Heliotrope. Heliotrope.
White Maurandya. White Maurandya.
No. 2.
Jean Viaud Geranium Mrs. J. M. Garr. Jean Viaud
(pink). (pink).
Dwarf blue Ageratum. Dwarf blue Ageratum.
Nepeta Glechoma. Souv. de Charles Turner. Nepeta Glechoma.
No. 3.
Beaute Poitevine Ger. White Verbena. Madame Charlotte Ger.
(salmon). (salmon).
Weeping Lantana.
Var. Ivy Ger. Joan of Arc. Ivy Ger. Joan of Arc.
No. 4.
Dark Crotons. Dark Crotons. Dark Crotons.
Light Crotons. Light Crotons.
Adlumia. Lotus Peliorhynchus. Adlumia.
No. 5.
Light Crotons. Light Crotons. Light Crotons.
Dark Coleus. Dark Coleus.
Trailing Abutilons. Trailing Abutilons. Trailing Abutilons.
No. 6.
East Window-box.
Scarlet Tuberous Begonia. White do. Scarlet Tuberous Begonia.
White Tuberous Begonia. White Tuberous Begonia.
White Thunbergia. Scarlet Nasturtium. White Thunbergia.
No. 7.
Pink Justicia. Pink Justicia. Pink Justicia.
Heliotrope. Heliotrope.
White Maurandya. Solanum Jasminoides. White Maurandya.
No. 8.
Yellow Tuberous Begonia. Yellow Tuberous Begonia. Yellow
Tuberous Begonia.
White Tuberous Begonia. White Tuberous Begonia.
Yellow Thunbergia. Yellow Thunbergia.
No. 9.
Pink Double Petunia. White Antirrhinum. Pink Double Petunia.
Wild Cucumber.
No. 10.
Heliotrope. Heliotrope. Heliotrope.
Duke Zeppelin Begonia. Duke Zeppelin Begonia.
Solanum Jasminoides. Solanum Jasminoides.
Manettia Vine.
No. 11.
North Window-box.
Fancy Caladiums Fancy Caladiums Fancy Caladiums
(dark). (dark). (dark).
Fancy Caladiums (light). Fancy Caladiums (light).
Vinca Var. Vinca Var.
Trailing Fuchsia. Maurandya. Trailing Fuchsia.
No. 12.
Fuchsia Phenomenal. Begonia Angel’s Wing. Fuchsia Phenomenal.
Dwarf Ageratum. Dwarf Ageratum.
Ivy Geranium. Trailing Fuchsia. Ivy Geranium.
No. 13.
Rubra Begonia. Asparagus Tenuissimus. Begonia Velutina.
Farfugium. Feastii Begonia.
Variegated Vinca. Manettia Vine. Variegated Vinca.
No. 14.
Asparagus Sprengeri. Boston Fern. Asparagus Sprengeri.
Russellia Grandis. Cissus Discolour. Russellia Grandis.
Nasturtiums make an attractive window-box, but need abundant root room,
and not more than three plants should be put in a box having three other
erect plants. Morning-glories, on the contrary, require but little room,
and one may be put in each end of a north window-box and trained over
the window. If strings are provided they will reach the roof by
midsummer, blooming every step of the way; other vines may be grown in
the front of the box. The Centrosema—when it can be persuaded to grow—is
a charming vine for a north or east window, but it is a very shy plant,
hard to get started, and refusing to grow in an uncongenial situation,
though quite hardy when once established.
[Illustration: BOXES IN WHICH SCYTHES ARE PACKED MAKE VERY GOOD
WINDOW-BOXES]
[Illustration: HANGING-BASKETS FOR WINDOWS]
The best support for the window-box is the wooden bracket made by
nailing to the side of the house, thirteen inches below the window-sill,
a strip of inch stuff the length of the window-frame and three or four
inches wide; on top of this and at right angles to it nail three similar
strips of wood one foot long, the outer ends resting on strips of wood
attached to the sill of the house; these last strips must have the ends
bevelled sufficiently to fit snugly against the baseboards and the
bottom of the horizontal pieces and be securely nailed together. If the
measurements are carefully taken the box will slip into place, on the
supports, just under the window-sill. Paint boxes and supports to match
the house. Window-boxes may be kept in the cellar through the winter, or
emptied, dried and stored in a dry place, according to their contents.
Always empty and thoroughly scald the boxes before using.
In stocking window-boxes never put plants received by mail directly into
them; they should be ordered early enough to pot and become established
(the pots full of roots) by the time they are needed for the
window-boxes, when they may be slipped into place without disturbing the
roots or checking their growth. Placed at once in the boxes, in a sunny
position, they would probably be lost.
Very fair window-boxes may be obtained at trifling expense by using the
boxes in which grass scythes are packed, which may be purchased at the
hardware store for five or ten cents apiece. These are not as wide nor
as deep as one could wish, but have the advantage of cheapness and
availability. Preference should be given to those having close seams. If
warped or open they must be tightened by driving in extra nails, or
nailing thin strips of wood over the cracks on the inside. The longevity
of the window-box is greatly lengthened by keeping the windows above
them—especially on the south and west sides of the house—open as much of
the time as possible. If the sun beats on the glass of the closed window
and is reflected on the plants, it is literally confining them between
two fires and they cannot be expected to come through uninjured. Let the
wind sweep through and over them and they will stand any reasonable
amount of heat or moisture. This is the reason plants do better in the
open than when placed against the side of a wall or building—the air
must not only have free access, but pass beyond, carrying off noxious
vapours and excess of moisture.
When there is garden room for their cultivation I do not approve of
growing annuals in window-boxes; it is better to reserve these for
choice plants; but when the window-box must be the only garden, and
economy must be studied, very pretty boxes may be arranged with Sweet
Alyssum; scarlet, white, or pink Phlox Drummondi; scarlet, pink, or
white Verbenas; the various coloured Antirrhinums, Petunias,
Nasturtiums, the blue Phacelia and Ageratums, Wild Cucumber, the finer
foliaged fancy gourds, as Bryonopsis Coccinea Indica, and Abobra
viridiflora. By using the scythe boxes, and starting the plants from
seed, very pretty boxes may be gotten up for from thirty-five to fifty
cents a pair that will give as much pleasure as more expensive ones. The
more flowers are cut from these boxes of annuals the more freely they
will bloom, and no seeds should be allowed to form. A little liquid
manure should be given all window-boxes—except those containing
Begonias—once a week during the summer, and all withered flowers and
leaves promptly removed. Nip back weak, straggly growths and encourage
the plants to grow stocky and the vines to branch freely.
Chapter _TEN_
Various Annuals from Seed
Antirrhinums (Snapdragon), of late much interest has been shown in the
newer forms of this old-time favourite, and some fine new varieties have
become popular for cut flowers. The Giant White and Queen of the North
are most desirable for cut flowers, window-boxes, and vases; while
Niobe—a beautiful half-dwarf variety of velvety maroon with white
throat, Giant Yellow, Giant Crimson, and Firefly—a bright scarlet—are
excellent for bedding.
Seed should be started early in hotbed or flats. Merely press it into
the soil and cover with a paper until the plants appear, which should be
in from eight to ten days. Transplant into rich soil where the plants
are to remain, setting one foot apart each way. They are effective in
rows with some taller plant, or vine, for a background. The tall, showy
spikes are most striking against a background of green. The Antirrhinum
is a half-hardy perennial, blooming the first season if seed is started
early enough, and hardy at the North with good protection in winter. If
a succession of flowers is desired, no seed should be allowed to form.
Protect in winter with a mulch of leaves, evergreen boughs, or
corn-stalks, as high—or higher—than the plants, or they may be pegged
down and covered with evergreen boughs, or boards to shed the rain. Thus
protected they will live through the winter and bloom heavily the
following summer. Occasionally in favoured locations they will live
through the winter unprotected, but this cannot be depended upon.
Antirrhinums are not particular as to soil or situation, provided they
have plenty of water; rich loam or half loam and half leaf-mould suiting
them equally well, and any exposure that affords a fair amount of
sunshine.
Asters have come to be a recognised necessity of the fall garden, and
there has been marked improvement in varieties during the past few
years. Starting with the old-fashioned Aster of medium size and inferior
colour, showing a marked yellow centre, the aim of the Aster specialist
has been to eliminate the centre, enlarge the flower, and improve the
colour and texture of the petal. Results are shown in such varieties as
the Giant White Comet, the Bride, the Japanese Tassel Aster,
Chrysanthemum Flowered, Peony, Perfection, and the wonderful Ostrich
Feather.
With such an embarrassment of riches it is difficult to declare any one
variety the finest, but for cut flowers and corsage wear nothing can
excel the Chrysanthemum Flowered in white and pink.
The lasting quality of the flowers when cut is quite phenomenal. I have
known them to keep fresh and sightly in water for a month, until the
stems had entirely rotted away, leaving the flower uninjured. In
arranging them for vases remove all leaves below the top of the vase,
leaving clean stems, which should be thoroughly cleansed daily, and the
ends clipped. A teaspoonful of charcoal added to the water in the vase
will keep it sweet and retard decay.
Early planting of Asters is to be strongly recommended, as the early
plants are not subject to the dreaded Aster disease or to attacks of the
black beetle, which often destroy all the flowers of a late bed in a
single day.
A teaspoonful of Paris green in the watering-pot, sprinkled on at night
or very early in the morning, will usually rid the plants of their
unwelcome guests, or they may be brushed off into a pan of water
containing a small quantity of kerosene—which is fatal to them. They are
sluggish, especially in the early morning, dropping to the ground when
touched, and easily killed. The point is to take them in time, and the
appearance of the first beetle should be the signal for active
operations.
For early flowers the seed may be planted in the hotbed, flats, or
cold-frame in March or April, covering an eighth of an inch deep and
keeping rather cool. They germinate in from five to seven days, and when
the plants have attained their second pair of true leaves they should be
transplanted, setting an inch or two apart in the flats or bed.
Transplant again when the leaves close up the gaps between them, setting
three or four inches apart according to their growth. If possible,
transplant a third time, as this frequent moving serves to produce a
great quantity of feeding roots, at the same time checking the top
growth and making a stocky plant with stiff stems. Transplant when the
weather is favourable into a well-prepared bed of sandy loam enriched
with old manure, or a bed of woods earth. Set a foot apart each way,
except in the case of the branching Asters, which should be at least two
feet apart.
Sprinkle ashes freely, and as long as there is room to work between the
rows cultivate once or twice a week. They may then be mulched with lawn
clippings to keep down the weeds for the rest of the season. If they are
planted in woods earth they will need only such cultivation as is
necessary to keep down the weeds. Do not let them suffer for water at
any period of their growth, and remove all flowers as they fade.
Ageratums (Floss Flower) are almost indispensable for edgings,
window-boxes, vases, and for filling out beds of Heliotrope. The dwarf
or Tom Thumb are the most desirable for edgings. Princess Caroline,
Swanley Blue, and Little Dorrit are the best of this class in the blue
or lavender shades. The white does not show a good, clear colour under a
hot sun, and is therefore not desirable. For early plants sow in flats
or in the hotbed early in spring. Later seed may be sown in the open
ground when the trees are in bloom, and transplanted when large enough.
Sow broadcast, covering the seed lightly and pressing it into the soil.
They germinate in from three to five days, and may be grown on until
time to transplant into permanent quarters. Though they may start
somewhat spindly, they quickly regain their dwarf and stocky character
in the open ground. Set plants from eight to ten inches apart in the
row. If the flower heads are removed as fast as they fade plants will
bloom from early June until cut down by frost.
Balsams (Lady Slipper), like Asters, are greatly benefited by frequent
transplanting, and one at least they must have. Start seed early in the
hotbed or flats, or later, when the trees are in bloom, in protected
beds in the open ground. Transplant at least once in the seed-beds;
twice, if possible. When danger of frost is past remove to beds of muck
or marsh earth, setting from twelve to fifteen inches apart each way.
Given plenty of room, the Balsam branches freely, and one well-developed
specimen will give more and finer flowers than a half-dozen cramped
specimens. In purchasing select the camellia-flowered varieties, as it
does not pay to waste time with inferior kinds. Really fine Balsams are
well worth cultivating, and are very effective in rows in front of
taller plants. The double white and shell pink are valuable for floral
designs for funerals and for other decorative work.
Probably no flower that has come into vogue of late years has won more
popularity than the Cosmos—certainly for cut flowers nothing can surpass
it in graceful beauty. The large pink and white Hibiscus, with a
generous handful of long-stemmed pink, crimson, and white Cosmos, makes
an ideal bouquet for a high glass vase. Placed in front of a large
mirror the effect in form and colour is hardly surpassed by the choicest
exotics. The graceful, fern-like foliage adds greatly to the beauty of a
well-grown clump in the garden or lawn. They are at their best when seen
against a background of darker green, a shower of crimson, pink, and
white.
Only the early flowering varieties should be grown at the North, as the
seasons are much too short for the giant or California varieties; though
if one has room for both, the California may be grown as a background
for the dwarf early flowering, as the foliage is much superior and the
late flowers very fine. If started very early in flats in the house,
pricked, out into pots, shifted and grown on until time to set in the
open ground, the season of bloom will be much advanced.
Set out in rich garden soil and supply abundantly with water. Strong
stakes must be provided, as the plants are very brittle at the joints,
and a storm may do great damage if they are unsupported. An excellent
way of growing them is to plant them in front of a wire fence or chicken
netting on the side toward the prevailing wind, that they may be blown
against, rather than away from their support, and the stalks and main
branches tied to the wires with raphia, wool twine, or strips of cloth;
thus protected there will be little danger of their being injured by
rough winds.
If an occasional seed is allowed to form and self-sow there will come up
very sturdy little plants the following spring, but fresh seed should be
purchased every other year to insure against deterioration in size of
blossom and quantity of bloom.
Columbine (the Aquilegia) seed may be sown in the open ground in the
North when the trees are in leaf, or any time after May 10th. Cover the
seed-bed with a newspaper and keep moist until the plants are up, in ten
to twelve days. Transplant when large enough to handle into fresh rows
or, when they have attained sufficient size, into their permanent
quarters. Planted in a row where they will have a background of green
the effect is beautiful. One of the prettiest beds I remember was of
mixed Columbine—pure white, rose, and lavender—in front of an old grey
building, on which grew a delicate vine in its first tender spring
green. They had been moved the fall before from a bed where they
attracted no particular attention, but in their new quarters they awoke
to find themselves famous.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: SMALL WATER GARDENS]
Dahlias are so easily raised from seed that it hardly seems worth while
to bother with the tubers, unless one has exceptionally favourable
conditions for storing them. Plants grown from seed, started early in
the house or hotbed, will come into bloom quite as soon as those grown
from tubers. Plant the seed in drills two inches apart, dropping an inch
or more apart in the drills, and cover with one-eighth to one-fourth
inch of earth. The seed germinates in from five to seven days, and the
little plants are quite robust from the start, though sensitive to cold
and drought. When all danger of frost is past and the nights are warm
transplant the Dahlias into beds of mellow soil heavily enriched with
manure. Set three feet apart each way and cultivate thoroughly as long
as there is room to work between the rows. Then mulch heavily with rough
manure covered with lawn clippings. Water copiously during dry weather,
showering the tops at night to counteract the effect of the dry air on
the buds. Save waste water from kitchen and bath, and apply to their
roots. This affords nourishment as well as moisture. When two feet high
tie carefully to tall, stout stakes, which, to avoid injury to the
tubers, would better be placed when the plants are set. Sprinkle soot
and ashes between the plants and cultivate it in. The finest flowers are
produced by protecting with an awning of thin cotton cloth after the
buds are fully grown—though this would only be desirable in the case of
exhibition flowers. When several buds appear in one place remove all but
the largest, as the difference in size will more than repay for the loss
in number, besides there is danger of all blasting if allowed to remain.
If worms or beetles appear on the buds they should be sprayed with
Paris-green solution—one teaspoonful of Paris green to three gallons of
water. Should the borer—that pest of the Dahlia, Aster, and
Cosmos—appear, pour the Paris-green mixture around the roots, soaking
the soil to the depth of three or four inches. Examine the stock of the
plant near the ground for the hole made by the borer. When found run a
flexible wire up the stalk to destroy the worm and prevent further
damage, and heap the earth above the wound. If brought up to a point
above the wound, and kept moist, new roots will start, thus insuring the
recovery of the plant. If one has previously been troubled with this
worm it will be well to anticipate matters, and, commencing when the
plants are a foot high, apply once a week a weak Paris-green solution;
continue this until the plant is grown and the wood hardened near the
ground.