CHAPTER V

FORMAL AND LANDSCAPE PLANTING

A certain sense of responsibility attaches to those who plant timber,

quite out of proportion to that incurred in the pursuit of the minor

and more transitory forms of garden arrangement and design. The

builder oak, the vine-prop elm and sailing pine, which to-day are so

small that we can carry them unaided, will develop into mighty trees,

silent witnesses of the times and doings of generations yet unborn.

We are planting for posterity, and shall be held accountable for the

good or evil that we do. Tree planting calls forth certain motives of

unselfishness, for it will be given to others than ourselves to see the

full beauty which only maturity can show. All honour, then, to those

old designers, to whose thought and care we owe the stately avenues,

the pride and glory of many an English home. A beautiful tree, Nature’s

gift of shade and shelter to man and beast, is the most precious

picture in a fair landscape, and we are doing good work when with care

and foresight we increase, even in ever so humble a way, the timber

supplies of our country.

Avenues are perhaps the most important example of formal planting, but

as they concern park and woodland effects rather than those pertaining

to the garden, their discussion is somewhat outside the scope of this

book. Of recent years, however, a practice has arisen among designers

of making an approach of this kind to quite unpretentious dwellings.

Even in suburban grounds we frequently see an avenue, perhaps no more

than fifty yards in length, leading to a modern villa. Against this

we protest, as a form of pretentious imitation, foolish to the last

degree. The avenue, which should never be less than one hundred yards

long, is essentially associated with a house and estate of considerable

size and some measure of importance, and to attach it to a small

residence is merely to cast ridicule on the owner. Plantations of

shrubs, with a few bold groups of deciduous trees, will give the needed

shelter to carriage drives, and at the same time allow of far greater

freedom of design than is permissible with a style of planting which is

both formal and exacting.

As regards the use of clipped yews for garden hedges, much diversity of

opinion exists among designers. On the one hand, we have men who employ

them in nearly every garden they undertake to lay out, and argue that,

far from being objectionable, every opportunity should be embraced for

planting them; on the other, a class who regard them as wholly foreign

to the ideals of beauty and the picturesque. Which is right? Certainly

not the former, for of all things tending towards monotony both in

summer and winter, an undue proportion of evergreens—clipped evergreens

especially—must be considered the most likely. If people must have

topiary gardens, such as exist at Levens and Elvaston, by all means let

them; but, at the same time, they should not fail to realise that these

are gardens of deformity, mere curiosities in no way connected with the

teachings of Nature. Yew hedges are the great delight of the “office

designer,” whose thought is less for the true beauty of the living

plant than for the elegant completeness of his deftly-drawn plan. An

ill-kept hedge is a wretched sight, thin at the bottom, full of holes,

and generally decrepit, and the labour of keeping some hundreds of

yards of clipped yew in repair entails an amount of labour not easily

realised by those who have not attempted to do so. There can be no

doubt, too, that the near presence of hungry evergreens is prejudicial

to roses and tender plants on account of the nourishment they demand,

and the idea that they act as harbourage to insect and other pests

is also well founded. Their merit consists in the fact that they

form an admirable shelter, certainly the best obtainable after walls

and fences, and a certain old-world air of picturesque dignity which

they impart. Despite this, their use is constantly overdone; they are

planted to distraction, dividing the garden into chess-board squares

and alleys leading nowhere; they render the soil sour and cold, exclude

sunlight, and sooner or later wear an appearance of gloomy desolation,

especially in the cheerless days of winter and late autumn. Had they

been used sparingly, instead of to excess, it is possible they would

still be regarded with the favour they once enjoyed, for we must not

forget the charm of the old manorhouse gardens, where yew hedges were,

and still are, true ornaments, because highly appropriate. It is all

a question of environment, and the greatest discretion is needed when

transferring a feature of this description to modern surroundings,

depriving it in the process of its old traditions—a relic of the past

in a new and often incongruous setting. A yew hedge sometimes looks

well when used as a boundary between the flower and vegetable garden,

a convenient arch or archways being cut to afford communication

from one to the other. A level top is preferable to one cut into

semi-circular hollows or crenelations; and any further embellishment,

such as standard trees with oddly-shaped heads planted at intervals, is

certainly to be avoided.

Isolated trees, whether yew, box, mopheaded acacias or holly, are

objects of pity to the lover of natural beauty, when he sees them

transferred by the shears into cones, umbrellas, and other stupid

shapes. There are many reasons, some practical, others sentimental,

for refraining from this barbarous practice, which is carried on

mainly at the instigation of the architect, who is apparently ashamed

of associating his walls and terraces with any but mutilated forms of

plant life. The cost of maintenance, as in the case of clipped hedges,

is an item not to be disparaged; the loss of form and individual

character is scant compensation for well matched regularity; and by the

absence of varied colour, the rich tints of maturity and the delicate

green of budding branch, the clipped tree is reduced to the level of an

unresponsive object, dull and inanimate. If formality is needed, why

not make use of such trees as have a naturally well-defined outline—the

Irish yew, cupressus, and the hardy junipers, they give a better effect

with a tithe of the trouble.

The bower walks, once so favoured, are now seldom made in gardens,

though as an example of formal planting they are not without a certain

charm. Adequate protection from hot sun and cold winds is afforded at

all times, and the garden scenes are not hidden from view, as is the

case with evergreen hedges. In the neighbourhood of the orchard, a

filbert walk would be a pleasing object, and even on poor soils, heavy

crops of nuts may be obtained after a few years.

The “mirthful maze” is but a stupid survival, and has no place in

gardens intended for other purposes than beanfeasts, or for the

edification of any who would not derive equal satisfaction from a Punch

and Judy show. The pity is that places which have none too much space

for flowers and the rational arrangement of trees and shrubs, should

be cumbered with anything so utterly unproductive of either beauty or

satisfactory achievement.

[Illustration: SUNDIAL IN GARDEN WALK]

Natural planting as opposed to that which is guided by the laws

of geometry, is infinitely more pleasing in the majority of English

gardens. The effective grouping of trees, either in the form of

isolated clumps or boundary plantations, is a matter requiring great

skill and artistic perception, and it is only right that the designer

should have a hand in their disposal, even if they occur outside the

strict boundaries of the garden. A mistaken idea, prevalent among

certain owners of property, is that garden design affects only that

piece of ground which it is proposed to lay out with beds, lawns and

walks. This is not so, for the beauty of certain gardens lies not so

much in their own attractiveness, as on the distant views obtainable

from them. Of course there are limits to this theory, as for example

the hill gardens of Italy, with their extended vistas of rolling

mountains and fertile valleys—the hand of man is not responsible for

scenery of this type. But in English gardens, especially those which

are set in a small park, or paddock, we expect that the same mind

that designed the garden shall also have the direction of such of the

surrounding property as is observable from it. Unsightly objects,

factory chimneys, ugly buildings, or workmen’s cottages can usually

be screened from view by suitably disposed groups of hardy trees. The

attainment of some measure of beauty in the home landscape will also

provide an excuse for the opening out of the garden, the reduction of

boundary walls and hedges, letting in air and sunlight, without of

course rendering the place wind swept.

In forming boundary plantations, there is seldom any need for making

them continuous, a form of planting which becomes exceedingly

monotonous, at the same time defining the limits of the property in an

unmistakable fashion. Privacy and shelter are of necessity considered,

but if without defeating these objects we can secure a vista of distant

country, rich meadowlands and purple hills, it would be waste of

opportunity not to do so. As the outline of boundary plantations will

in many cases cut the horizon, leaving the tops of the trees showing

clear against a background of sky, great attention should be paid to

making this outline as attractive as possible. It is a mistake to use

trees of only one kind, as this results in a level monotonous outline

anything but pleasing. The tall spire of a poplar will give variety and

point to a plantation composed almost entirely of trees with rounded

heads; a graceful birch with its feathery outline would break the level

of a smooth belt of shrubs. Colour too is all important, a judicious

mixture of evergreen and deciduous trees is generally preferable to a

plantation composed entirely of one class. There is no need to make

the boundary plantation straight on the inner side, whatever may be

required on the outer, and the formation of well marked swells and bays

will lend an air of charm and indefiniteness. It is usual to plant

trees of large growth on rising ground, reserving dwarf varieties and

bushes for the hollows, but this is a rule which must be modified

according to circumstances. By a continuous system of grouping the eye

may be carried from the garden itself to the very outskirts of the

property, and this is much more satisfactory than the plan of treating

the outer plantation as a mere fence, quite independent of what may lie

within it.

The indiscriminate dotting of specimen trees about a park or garden

is much overdone, and in the greater number of cases irregular groups

of trees having somewhat similar characteristics would be far more

satisfactory. Certain trees, as the tulip tree, and the wych elm, are

well adapted for isolation on the lawn, and are welcome for the shade

they afford; but thorns, the flowering crabs, and the Scotch firs

should always be planted in groups. As these smaller plantations are

often required to hide some unsightly object, care must be taken when

marking out the ground that the eyesore is hidden from every point of

view. This can generally be contrived by small subsidiary plantings,

dependent on the main group. Having staked out an area of ground which

when planted will hide the object from the principal point, proceed

to view the site from all quarters, adding and remodelling as may

be necessary. For this, and work of a similar character, the use of

ranging poles of various heights is helpful. Supposing that it is

desired to make a small plantation with the object of concealing an

ugly building, the designer will take up his position at the principal

vantage point. An assistant will move the poles from place to place

until the necessary width of the plantation is determined. To decide

the class of trees needed, and their height, which should not be

greater than absolutely necessary, poles of varying heights may be

raised perpendicularly, noting the particular one which just clears the

object. Supposing this to be twenty-five feet, then trees twenty-five

feet high will be required, and knowing this it remains to select those

which are most in keeping with the surroundings, or supply the special

effects desired.

The book of garden design · 第 5 / 11 章