might be the Doctor I jumped out of bed to go to him, and landed
in cold water! The ship had sprung a leak. All the rooms on one
side were found to be flooded, and the engine-room was a pond. The
pumps were put to work, but it was some hours before the water was
where it belonged. Some things in my room were spoiled. We started
early for Philæ, where our dahabeyeh lay, at the other end of the
cataract. It was five miles, and we took camels so as to gain a
little experience in riding preparatory to the long desert journey.
Our route lay through the ancient bed of a river. On the way we
visited the famous granite quarries, and saw the huge obelisk left
partially cut out of its bed. We all went on board our dahabeyeh
for lunch. The stars and stripes had been raised, and we also
ordered up the English flag in honor of our guests. After lunch,
while Ibrahim and Mourgan were getting our baggage on board, we,
the party, took a small boat and rowed out to the interesting
island of Philæ. First we rowed around it to get a comprehensive
view of its beautiful temples. Then we landed, and examined them
all in detail. We also visited the ruins of a little Christian
church, which an American has discovered.
_Friday, Dec. 9._——For some reason I did not sleep well, and was
up early and over the side of the dahabeyeh for a good swim in
the Nile. A light breeze soon sprang up, the sail was set, and at
8.30 A.M. we were off, the Englishmen still in the cataract. We
passed an island to the right of Philæ, stopped for a few moments
at a little village where some of our sailors lived and then we
were off again, slowly passing immense granite boulders, between
narrow banks fringed with dom-palms and very black Nubians,
creeping along pretty fast for the light wind that just fills our
big sail. We pass Debod, and then towards evening the wind goes
down, and we have to make the bank and tie up. We do not remain
here long, however. Our Reis, who is a fine fellow, ever on the
alert, hears a rustling in the trees, a gale is upon us; the big
sail is quickly flung out, and we start almost with a bound and
strike a rock! The captain reports “no leak,” and off we go again,
fairly flying before the wind. After a while it dies down and once
more we have to make the bank and tie up just this side of Gebel
Kalabshe. Here we go ashore and wander about, but are quickly
recalled by the Reis. A good steady breeze has followed the lull
after the gale, and off we go. Now we enter scenery that in the
deep shadows of the moonlight is grand and sublime in the extreme.
The granite mountains tower up from the water’s edge close to us
on either side. There are deep gorges and overhanging cliffs, and
huge boulders around which the pent up river swirls and eddies. I
have named this wild spot “The Gates of the Tropics,” for now we
pass the invisible line and enter the tropics. The southern cross
is clearly visible in the heavens near the horizon, and toward it
we are flying on the wings of the wind. In the witchery of such
an evening, in such a place, we sit on deck till long past the
midnight hour.
_Saturday, Dec. 10._——The captain has been up all night and we have
made a good run of it. It is very hot, and the wind dying down.
Over we go for a swim. We have passed a rock-temple, and another
very good temple at Dakkeh. The flies are getting to be a perfect
pest.
_Sunday, Dec. 11._——The wind is lighter and our progress has been
slower. However, we have gradually drawn away from the grand rocky
mountains that rose up abruptly from the water’s edge on our
left this morning, and now around us are the volcanic peaks that
indicate the vicinity of Korosko. We reached Korosko at 4 P.M.,
having made remarkably good time from Assouan. We noticed a queer
peak just before reaching the town. There is a sacred mountain with
a tomb upon it just at the rear of the village. Soon after our
arrival the governor and various other officials came on board.
The old governor was delighted when he found that we could talk
together in Turkish. The usual formality of salaams, and coffee,
etc., were duly exchanged. Our camels were ready for us.
_Monday, Dec, 12._——We had a pleasant visit this morning from a
merchant who arrived by caravan during the night from Darfur. We
talked together in Greek. We have moved our boat higher up stream.
Have received a number of visits from officials and sore-eyed men.
The Doctor is having quite a practice. We have climbed the road
that weary pilgrims tread to the top of the sacred mountain Gebel
Aboo-Gowenah, whence we have had a fine, extensive view of the
winding river, and the billowing ocean of volcanic peaks, and our
own desert route that winds in and out among them. We send off a
batch of letters for home, pack and get ready for our long journey.
The bread is all made and properly dried.
_Tuesday, Dec, 13._——Up about 5 A.M., roused the crowd, and pushed
things as fast as possible. We expected to find the camels waiting
on the bank, but not a living being was in sight. Hours went by and
nobody appeared; we sent two men in different directions after the
sheik of the camel-drivers, but he was not! Finally patience was
exhausted. We went to the Governor’s house to see if we couldn’t
start things up a little. He was pretending to hold court, but
dismissed the case when he saw us. Then it being the proper thing
to do we raised a row with His Majesty over our delay. It had the
desired effect. The sheik was speedily produced, and we rode back
to the boat on donkeys, with the whole crowd at our heels. Here
we soon discovered that the governor, the sheik, and every other
man in the crowd was determined to have a finger in the pie, and
make us pay double the proper prices for all our camels. We talked
and reasoned till 1 P.M. without avail. Then we grew righteously
indignant. We laid down our terms——refused to listen to another
word——gave orders to have everything put back on board the boat if
they were not accepted, and threatened to go on to Wady Halfa and
denounce the whole crowd of them as miserable rascals. Our terms
were then accepted, and they thought a good deal more of us for
standing for our rights instead of yielding to their exorbitant
demands. Part of the money was paid and part held in reserve; the
papers were made out, the baggage weighed and loaded, and at 1.30
P.M. we started out. We went about a mile or two into the desert,
and camped in a rocky ravine, and here we got everything into good
shape, looked to everything connected with our water supply, and
made ready for the real business of the long desert before us; and
here begins our tent life.
_Wednesday, Dec. 14._——Broke camp, and started the caravan at 8.30
A.M. Now for the great desert journey! All the morning we pass peak
after peak of a volcanic nature. At 2 P.M. we stopped, took a hasty
bite of lunch in a sort of cave in a mountain called Elemnasir.
Then on and on we go, swaying back and forth on our camels, and
trying to “bone down” to the regular business before us. At 5.15
P.M. we went into camp for the night, considering it wiser not
to make too long a day of the first one, as camels and men were
both fresh, but to reserve our forces for the great strain toward
the last. The spot chosen for our camp is a wild place under the
shelter of a volcanic peak called Diakazarkha. Up goes the tent,
all hands taking hold with a will. Mourgan starts a fire; now then,
in the words of the “old folks’” song, “Jerusha, put the kettle on
and we’ll all take tea.” Mourgan produces a marvel of a meal for
such a place, and we fall to at once to do it ample justice. Our
caravan consists of 19 camels and 15 men. The guide is a strong,
bold fellow, thoroughly up to his business, and evidently enjoys
commanding his men. The camels get only 2½ quarts of dourra a day,
carry about 400 lbs. each, and are expected to go without water
till we reach Murrat. Our water supply is to last us till we reach
the Nile at Aboo-Hamed, as the water at Murrat is not drinkable.
How brightly the stars shine out here. The stillness of the desert
soon rests upon the camp, broken only by the occasional growl of a
camel, and the snoring of the men.
_Thursday, Dec. 15._——We are all up early, take a hasty breakfast,
pull down the tent, load the camels amid a chorus of roars and
growls, and start the whole caravan at 7 A.M. More volcanic peaks.
The ground is everywhere covered with balls of iron from the size
of a large pea to that of a cannon-ball. The iron is so pure that
the natives are able to beat these balls into knives, etc. Now
we see our first mirage. It is a beautiful lake, whose surface,
scarcely rippled by the gentle breeze, clearly reflects a distant
mountain range. The illusion is perfect. We lunch in a cave in
a place called Gamoor. We have met one caravan of cattle and
another of two or three hundred camels. Our guide stopped to camp
about five o’clock, thinking probably that we were exhausted by
this time. He looked surprised but pleased when we protested, and
informed him that we intended to make forced marches of at least
twelve hours every day. On and on we went into the darkness, for
it is dark at five. At 7.10 we halted and pitched our camp in a
portion of the desert called _Nasbelhedoriah_. Before we arrived
in camp there was a commotion. What’s the matter? Nothing, only
the cook has fallen asleep and rolled off from his camel! But the
shining, round face comes up with a grin, “All right, kutter herak
kattir.” We are not half way to Murrat yet, and the water in our
“bootleg” bottles and skins is as black as ink. A whole week more
before we reach the river!
* * * * *
THE CHINESE.
* * * * *
THE STATISTICS FOR FEBRUARY.
Figures may be dry, and yet I am sure that a summary of those
contained in the February reports from our schools cannot but
interest and gratify all friends of our work. No less than 116 new
pupils were enrolled in our schools during that month. Change of
location or other causes produced the removal from the schools of
99. But the total number enrolled, 726, is the largest total ever
reached, and the average attendance, 354, is also larger than ever
before. Among the pupils thus enrolled are 119 who give evidence
of Christian life. The total number who have become members of our
schools during the fiscal year, thus far (_i.e._, from Sept. 1st to
Feb. 28th) is 1,375.
THE CHINESE NEW YEAR.
In the month of February occurs the Chinese New Year Festival——the
great holiday period for them of the entire twelvemonth. At my
request, our teachers have given me some account of the way in
which it was observed by our Christian Chinese in their respective
localities.
Rev. Mr. Ostrom, of Oroville, who has served as a missionary in
China and whose heart is still there, states the following “general
facts”: “Their preparation for the New Year is commenced weeks
before the close of the old. One of the first things is to plant
the Narcissus——a water lily called by the Chinese ‘the water angel
flower’——so that it may be in bloom on New Year’s Day. A beautiful
legend connected with this flower is everywhere told and believed
in China. In a certain district of the Fo Kien province lived a man
who had two wives and a son by each wife. The man died, leaving
a farm, which the elder brother seized, allowing to the younger
brother only a small, marshy corner, through which ran a sluggish
stream. These lilies were found growing in the stream——all that the
marsh and stream produced. The gentler younger brother, loving the
beautiful flower, cultivated it, and found that it would always
bloom on the New Year. Its beauty and fragrance won the admiration
of many and the demand for the bulbs increased till finally it came
in from all parts of China, and the wealth of the owner of the
little stream and marsh soon surpassed that of the avaricious elder
brother. Then, through some pretence, the latter took possession of
the little stream and marsh, expecting thus to grasp the revenue
from the sale of the lilies. But, lo! when New Year came, they
refused to bloom. Conscience-stricken by this apparent rebuke
of the gods, the marsh and the stream were surrendered to their
rightful owner, and then, strange to say, the lilies bloomed forth
as before.
“Such is the legend; now for plain facts. At the close of the year
the house is cleaned, and dressed on its posts and walls with
new red paper containing good words from the sages. On the last
day of the old year, every family worships the ancestral tablet,
and the idols, with offerings of slain birds and other animals,
with vegetable delicacies added. Eight kinds of meat are offered
to the ancestral tablets, and only fish, pork and chicken to the
idols. Fruit, and a pudding cooked in boiling lard are also used
as offerings. These furnish the feasts for the following day; for
the spirits only inhale the perfume, leaving the substance for base
mortals.
“On the last day of the old year, the married daughters must be at
their husbands’ homes, and must not revisit the paternal roof till
the New Year’s festival is over. The devotee rising very early on
New Year’s morning, worships, first of all, the ancestors, burning
incense, and red paper representing money, before the tablet, on
each side of which candles have been lighted, and before which
the offerings have been placed. Then the idols of the household
are worshipped, and, next, those of the temple. Fire-crackers are
snapped by the priests in the temple, and by all the people at
their homes and their places of business. If any one has married,
or is successful in gambling or in business, he expresses his
gratitude by these explosives. Breakfast comes next, composed of
vegetables only, for no blood must be shed or be used on New Year’s
Day. Liquor distilled from rice is sipped from tiny cups. Now,
calling and the exchange of cards follow. Only good words are to be
spoken. It is a violation of etiquette, established by the custom
of ages, to speak evil of, or to, any one during the first ten days
of the New Year.”
Such of these usages as are purely social are retained by our
Christian Chinese: The house-cleaning which brings to our several
mission houses a thorough renovation; the trimming upon the walls
and elsewhere with evergreen wreaths, with bouquets of artificial
flowers and other samples of Chinese art; the cultivation of the
fragrant Narcissus, and the interchange of calls and cards and
mutual good wishes; the treating with candies, fruits, and tiny
cups of tea——guiltless of the American concomitants of sugar and
cream——all these you will find our Christian Chinese carrying
forward with no less zest than their heathen countrymen. In these
cases, this year, they invited the teacher with the whole family to
which she belonged, to a banquet after the Chinese style; and in
_all_ cases the teachers seem to have been remembered with gifts
selected often with exquisite taste and purchased at a considerable
cost.
But with our Christian Chinese these days are holy days rather than
holidays. The week is a week of prayer. In all their sociality
their religion is remembered and their Saviour is recognized. If
on their special reception-day, a minister is among the first to
call, he will be likely to be asked to open the day’s enjoyment
with prayer. Every day there are special religious services; and
connected with these, fresh resolves of consecration to Christ and
fresh and earnest intercessions for each other and for their still
benighted countrymen. One such meeting I attended by appointment at
the home of our Oakland brethren. I remained with them an hour and
a half. The school there had been in an unsatisfactory condition;
running down in attendance and in spiritual power, while the
schools in this city and at most other points were advancing
in both respects. We looked the facts in the face; prayed over
them; and then took counsel together. The result was a unanimous
determination to take up missionary work among their countrymen
with more earnestness and more system than ever before, and with
God’s help to make their school as large and as efficient for good
as possible.
[Illustration: JAPANESE PLEASURE PARTY.]
Perhaps the account given by Mrs. Carrington, of the services at
Sacramento, presents the week’s work as fairly as any. “A watch
meeting closed the old year and opened the new. On Saturday evening
there was a union meeting at the Presbyterian Mission House. On
Wednesday evening a New Year’s banquet was given at our Mission
House. Rev. Dr. Dwinell and Mrs. Dwinell, with the superintendent
and teachers in the Chinese Sunday-school and other friends, were
present. Other evenings were spent in less formal but more social
worship, and on Saturday evening, February 25, a crowning union
service was held at our Mission House. The room was filled to
overflowing. Twenty or more of the American friends were present,
and much interest was manifested. And so this New Year’s festival
was closed.”
As between the hurried and meaningless New Year’s calls, with
the accessories of unwholesome food in gluttonous quantities,
washed down by poisonous wines and fiery liquors, which the old
Knickerbocker custom has entailed upon Americans, and these
festivities of our Christian Chinese, it does not take me long to
judge which ought to be preferred.
* * * * *
CHILDREN’S PAGE.
* * * * *
THE GRASSHOPPER TEACHER.
_By M. K. Smith. Atlanta University, Ga._
A young lad who had found his way from the West coast of Africa to
Atlanta University entered my class in entomology last October.
Shortly after, when naming the teachers under whose instructions he
came daily, he quaintly designated me as his “grasshopper teacher.”
In order to give some idea of the amount of enthusiasm the common
grasshopper is capable of rousing in the mind of the average
colored student, it may be interesting to give a brief explanation
of the method of study pursued.
The pupils had no particular love for the troublesome insect;
in fact, they had hitherto entertained for him a sentiment the
reverse of friendly, and when I gave each student a pin upon which
a grasshopper (it had been killed by immersion in alcohol) was
transfixed, a dissatisfied giggle or a contemptuous sniff from each
gave evidence that the little world of the class-room was decidedly
out of sympathy with the existing state of affairs.
The African boy refused to touch a “specimen,” and regarded me
with an expression in which surprise, fear and defiance were
blended. The fear was doubtless the result of experience with
poisonous insects in his fatherland, while the surprise was that
a grasshopper should usurp the place of a book, for which the
savage has all the superstitious reverence which characterizes
the civilized student, and the defiance probably arose from a
resolution that no earthly power should induce him to touch the
strange animal. I did not urge him, but quickly called attention
to the insect in hand. Without much difficulty they found the
principal parts, to which I gave the names, head, thorax and
abdomen. By the time these words were written on the board the
class was pacified, for the colored student loves new words whose
significations are beyond his comprehension just as well as his
white brother. When the shape of the head was considered the
students realized for the first time the lack of words which is so
general among these people. “It’s like a horse’s head,” broke forth
a boy, impetuously, while a hum of approval ran along the forms. I
accepted the resemblance, and asked them to observe other things in
connection with the head, and very soon the eyes were mentioned. I
drew on the board a diagram of hexagonal cells, closely connected,
and explained that the compound eye of the grasshopper is composed
of _facets_ of similar form and each having power of sight.
“Why, he is better off than we are,” exclaimed a wondering youth.
“We have only two eyes apiece, while he has thousands of ’em.
What’s that for?”
“God made him that way,” returned another, as he handled his
“specimen” a little more gently, while the African boy leaned over
to get a good look at those queer eyes that were even nicer than
his own.
I then called attention to the position of the eyes on the head and
secured the statement that by their being placed just as they are
the insect can see before, behind and on both sides at the same
time. In a moment more than a dozen hands were waving wildly in
the air, while two excited youths came to their feet as suddenly
as if they had been moved after the manner of a “Jack in the box.”
“I know, I know,” shouted one, “they are there so that he can see
danger all round him. Many a time I’ve tried to catch him, and I
would steal up behind him and ease my hand up soft, soft (the boy
illustrated the action) and then just when I thought I had him, he
was off!” and the lad’s hands were outspread to imitate the sudden
movement of the insect.
I directed attention to the place where the head joins the thorax.
“He’s got a collar on,” shouted one. “What is that for?” “To
cover the seam nicely, and keep it from harm,” answered another,
before I had time to speak, “and it’s made mighty pretty, too,” he
continued, admiringly. “I should like to know what this means?”
exclaimed another, who had extended his investigations, and now
held up to the astonished gazers the under wings, spread out as
they had never before seen them. I wish, dear reader, you could
have been with us that day, to have felt with me the delight of
those people, who for almost the first time were using their eyes
as I think God intended they should be used——to give light to the
understanding. “Just like a thin lady’s gray veil,” suggested a
little girl, as soon as she found a chance to speak, whereupon a
quizzical laugh arose, until she explained that the veil was thin,
and not the lady.
The African boy at the very next lesson held out his hand for a
“specimen,” and throughout the term was as much interested as the
others, striving with all his might to announce his discoveries
in correct English. The grasshopper became popular. We studied
him for more than two weeks and then felt we were only beginning
his acquaintance. The students spent their leisure in watching
grasshoppers eat, in studying their habits and in finding out
their uses. The lessons went on with an eagerness that made the
“grasshopper teacher” fear that something must be wrong, for it
seemed against all law and order that teacher and taught should
have such an uninterruptedly good time.
The pleasure was ever new, while, side by side with the development
of power to think and reason, grew a sense of God’s care over and
nearness to his creatures.
* * * * *
RECEIPTS FOR MARCH, 1882.
* * * * *
MAINE, $311.45.
Bangor. Rev. I. P. Warren, D.D. ($30 of which
to const. MRS. SARAH L. WARREN L. M.) $50.00
Bangor. Miss Haynes, _for Student Aid,
Straight U._ 2.00
Bethel. Second Cong. Ch. and Soc. 8.00
Brownsville. Cong Ch. and Soc. 17.00
Brunswick. Ladies, Bbl. of C. and $1.70, _for
Freight, for Selma, Ala._ 1.70
Calais. J. Barker, _for Student Aid, Talladega
C._ 25.00
East Otisfield. Mrs. Susan Lovewell, $5;
Joseph Loring, $3; Mrs. Sarah Morton, $2. 10.00
Falmouth. Second Cong. Ch. and Soc. 9.80
Garland. Cong. Ch. and Soc. 6.00
Hallowell. “Friends,” _for Furnishing Room,
Talladega C._ 13.00
Hallowell. Mrs. H. K. Baker. 5.00
Kennebunk. Union Ch. and Soc. 5.20
Litchfield Corner. Cong. Ch. 10.00
Lyman. Cong. Ch. and Soc. 6.07
Machias. Center Street Cong. Ch., $5.89, and
Sab. Sch., $5; E. G. L., $1 11.89
Orono. Cong. Ch. 1.04
Portland. St. Lawrence Street Cong. Ch. and
Soc. 14.53
Scarborough. Cong. Ch., “A Friend” 50.00
Searsport. “A Friend,” $5; M. C. B., 50c 5.50
Union. Ladies, Bbl. of C., _for Selma, Ala._
Warren. Cong. Ch. and Soc. 10.21
Wells. First Cong. Ch and Soc. 18.51
Winterport. Mrs. DR. E. MANTER, _for Chinese
M._, and to const. herself L.M. 30.00
Winthrop. I. N. M. 1.00
NEW HAMPSHIRE, $420.72.