UNPLEASANT VISITORS--"SPEED THE PARTING GUEST"--OFF
AGAIN--AN OSTRICH EGG--I'ARIA MISLEADS US--STRIKING
OIL--PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHASE--WIND AND HAIL--A
GUANACO AT LAST--AN EXCITING RUN--THE DEATH--HOME--
HUNGRY AS HUNTERS--"FAT-BEHIND-THE-EYE."
The next morning we were up betimes, as we were going to continue our
journey. Whilst we were engaged in the tedious operation of packing
up, an Indian woman walked suddenly into the ring of bushes which
surrounded our encampment, and seated herself silently by the fire.
Gregorio elicited from her that on the previous night the Indians had
been drinking heavily, and that she had had a quarrel with her husband
whilst both were inebriated, in consequence of which she had left his
tent, and was now on her way to Sandy Point. She had walked the whole
distance from the Indian camp barefoot, but did not seem in the least
tired. I suppose she counted on her husband's regretting his
behaviour, and coming after her to fetch her back, for she could
hardly have seriously entertained the idea of walking all the way to
Sandy Point. I offered her some biscuits and a stick of chocolate,
which she accepted readily enough, but without even so much as a grunt
by way of thanks. Presently she told Gregorio that the Indians were
breaking up their camp, and that some were going to march on to Sandy
Point. This piece of information made us hurry on with our work, as we
dreaded being surprised by a party of Indians, with all our effects
scattered about, offering tempting facilities for abstraction, which
the Tehuelche heart was sure not to be able to resist. To such a visit
we were moreover extremely liable, as our camp was unfortunately close
to the trail to Sandy Point.
Our fears were realised only too soon, for about a quarter of an hour
after the arrival of the squaw two Indians came crashing
unceremoniously through the bushes; and wheeling their horses about
the camp, careless of our crockery, after a short examination they
dismounted, and coolly sat down by our fire, answering our angry looks
with imperturbed stares of stolid indifference. Five minutes later
another party arrived, followed shortly by a further batch, and
presently we were quite inundated by a swarm of these unbidden
guests. Of course our work was stopped, all our attention being
required to look after our goods and chattels. Over these we kept
guard in no very good humour, breathing fervent prayers the while for
speedy relief from our friends, who on their part evinced no
particular hurry to go away. They had made themselves comfortable at
our fire, and were passing round the social pipe in evident good
humour with themselves and their present quarters. To complete the
irony of the situation, one of their number who could speak Spanish
came and asked me for a little coffee, which he purposed to cook in
our kettle, which was still simmering conveniently on the fire. As may
be imagined, he met with an indignant refusal; however, it only
appeared to amuse him and his friends, and by no means influenced them
in hastening their departure.
Meanwhile time went on, and some expedient for getting rid of them had
to be devised unless we wished to lose a whole day. It occurred to us
that they might possibly be bribed to go away by means of a small
offering of whisky; and through Gregorio we accordingly intimated to
them that if they would leave us they should be rewarded for their
kindness with a glass of that spirit. To our relief they accepted this
offer, and we presently had the satisfaction of seeing them ride
leisurely away. To do them justice, I must say that, contrary to our
fears, they did not steal any of our effects, though possibly the
strict watch we kept over them may have had something to do with this
unusual display of honesty.
The moment they had gone we redoubled our efforts, and succeeded in
getting all our horses saddled and packed without further molestation.
The three mules still remained to be packed, but these we left to the
care of Gregorio and Guillaume who were to follow us, we, meanwhile,
starting off under the guidance of old I'Aria. Francisco went off
alone, by another route, in order to forage for meat, be it ostrich or
guanaco, of which both ourselves and the dogs stood very much in need,
the small supply we had got from the Indians being quite exhausted.
Just as we were leaving an Indian galloped up, who turned out to be
the husband of the pedestrian squaw, who, after the departure of the
other Indians, still remained in our camp. The reconciliation scene
was a very short one, and did not go beyond a few inexpressive grunts
on either side, after which the squaw got up on horseback behind her
husband, and off they rode towards Sandy Point.
We now struck northwards, leaving Cape Gregorio, which lay directly
opposite our late encampment, at our backs. I'Aria having to keep the
troop together singlehanded we had plenty to do to help him, and in
galloping after refractory horses, urging on the lazy ones, and
occasionally stopping to adjust packs, the time passed quickly enough.
We occasionally crossed tracts of land covered with a plant bearing a
profusion of red berries of the cranberry species. They were quite
ripe now, and we found them pleasant and refreshing. The weather was,
as usual, sunny and bracing; and except that as yet we had not seen a
guanaco or given chase to a single ostrich, we had nothing to grumble
about. I'Aria told us that we were certain to meet with guanaco on
that day's march, so, with this assurance, we comforted ourselves and
kept a sharp look-out, eagerly scanning the horizon of each successive
plain, and woe betide the unfortunate animal that might appear within
our ken. The day passed, however, and a dark patch of beeches, which
stood near the spot where we were to camp that night, appeared in view
without our having seen either an ostrich or a guanaco. Somebody found
an ostrich egg though, and it was carefully kept against dinner-time,
for although it must have been laid two or perhaps three months,
there was still a possibility of its being tolerably good, as these
eggs occasionally keep till the month of April, six months after
laying time.
Towards sunset we arrived at a broad valley scattered over with
picturesque clumps of beeches, and bordered on its far side by a thick
wood of the same tree. I'Aria pointed out a spot to us where he said
there were some springs, by the side of which we were to camp, and
thither we accordingly rode. But when we got there no springs were to
be seen, and I'Aria said he must have mistaken the place. He suddenly
remembered, however, that a conspicuous clump of beeches, some way up
the valley, marked the right spot, so we turned in that direction. But
again was I'Aria mistaken, and when--following various of his sudden
inspirations--we had wandered about the valley in all directions for a
considerable time without coming across these problematic springs, we
began to think ourselves justified in presuming that I'Aria had lost
his way, and in charging him with the same. He denied the accusation,
however, with a calm and steady assurance, which, considering that all
the time he was leading us about in aimless helplessness, would have
had something rather humorous about it had our situation been a less
serious one. If we did not succeed in finding the springs, besides
having to endure the torture of thirst ourselves we should have to
stop up all night to look after the horses, who would be certain to go
off in search of water and get lost. It was rapidly getting dark too,
and there were no signs of the arrival of any of the other guides,
whose absence was a further confirmation that we could not be on the
right track. As a last resource we resolved to separate, and each go
in a different direction in search of water, though I must say we had
little hopes of success, it being known to us that beyond the springs
in question there was no other water in that part of the country for a
considerable distance. Hurling bitter but useless anathemas at I'Aria,
who was now confidently pointing out a new spot as the "really" right
one, we accordingly broke up, and having arranged to fire a shot as a
signal, should any one of us find water, dispersed over the valley in
all directions.
I had hardly skirted the beechwood for more than a minute or so when
my horse suddenly neighed joyfully, and in an opening among the trees
I saw two or three small pools of spring water. Overjoyed, I lost no
time in firing off my gun, the report of which soon brought up all
the others, who had not gone far. In justice to I'Aria it must be
said that for the last hour he had been wandering about close to where
the springs lay, and his persistent denial of having lost his way was
so far justified. Besides, as there was no trail of any description
across the pampa over which we had that day ridden, it was really no
easy matter to hit on the right spot immediately.
We had just set up the tents and made the fire when Gregorio and
Guillaume, at whose prolonged absence, now that we were at the springs
ourselves, we had become rather uneasy, appeared with the mules. They
had been delayed on the road by the packs getting undone. Francisco
too soon came up, and though he had been unsuccessful in the chase, he
arrived in time to cook an excellent omelette for our dinners with the
ostrich egg, which turned out to be perfectly sound and palatable.
The next day was to be devoted to guanaco-hunting, the want of meat
having become quite a serious matter; our dogs were getting weak, and
our stores, on which we had to rely solely for food, were disappearing
in an alarmingly quick manner.
It is marvellous how the ordinary excitement of hunting is increased
when, as in our case, one's dinner depends on one's success; and it
was with feelings almost of solemnity, that early in the morning we
selected and saddled our best horses, sharpened our hunting-knives,
slung our rifles, and, followed by the dogs, who knew perfectly well
that real earnest sport was meant, threaded the beechwood and rode up
on to the plateau, where, according to the unanimous assurance of the
guides, we could not fail to meet with guanaco.
I'Aria and Storer having been left behind to look after the camp, our
hunting-party numbered seven. In order to cover as much ground as
possible we spread out in a line, extending over about two miles, and
in this order we cantered northward from the valley, carefully
scanning the plain, which stretched flat away for a good distance, but
apparently as bare of guanaco as it was of grass. The weather, unlike
that of the preceding day, was very cold, and a bitterly sharp wind
blew right into our faces, making those of our number who had
neglected to bring their greatcoats or furs very uncomfortable. This,
however, was a trifling matter, if only those good guanacos would
obligingly make their appearance! But evidently nothing was farther
from their minds, and we rode over the plain, mile after mile, with
hopes which, like the thermometer, were gradually sinking towards
zero. As time went on, the haze which bound the plateau at our
approach solidified itself into an escarpment. In due time this was
reached, and I rode up it, expecting to find another plain on its
summit as usual. Instead, however, a broken, hilly country appeared in
view, crossed in all directions by ravines. I looked eagerly about,
but still no guanaco. Our line of advance, meantime, lost its order,
owing to the changed nature of the ground, and frequently I lost sight
of all my companions, as I descended into a ravine, or rode round the
base of some tall hillock; but it was never long before I caught a
glimpse of one or other of them again.
The wind got colder and colder, a white cloud crept up on the horizon,
and grew and grew, sweeping swiftly towards me, till I suddenly found
myself enveloped in a furious hail-storm. I came to a stand-still, and
covered up my head to protect myself from the hailstones, which were
very large. The squall did not last long, but when I looked up again I
found the whole country was whitened over, an atmospheric freak having
created a dreary winter landscape in the middle of summer. Suddenly I
started; close to me stood, perfectly motionless, and staring me full
in the face, a tall guanaco. I was so startled and surprised that for
the space of a minute I sat quietly returning his stare. A movement of
my horse broke the spell. The guanaco darted up the side of a hill
like lightning, and pausing a moment on its summit, disappeared. I
meanwhile had unslung my rifle, and was off in pursuit of him. Instead
of climbing the hill, I rode quickly round its base, and on the other
side, as I had expected, I discovered my friend looking upward, no
doubt thinking I should appear by the same road he had come. I had the
selfishness, though I am sure sportsmen will excuse it, to wish to
kill the first guanaco myself, and I was therefore by no means
displeased to find that my companions had not as yet perceived us.
With a beating heart I dismounted and walked slowly towards the
guanaco, who, though he saw me coming, still remained quietly
standing. My weapon was a light rook-rifle, but though an excellent
arm, it did not carry more than 150 yards with precision, and I was
now something over 180 yards from my prey. He allowed me to advance
till within the required distance, but then, to my disgust, just as I
was preparing to fire, leisurely walked on another thirty or forty
yards before he stopped again, watching me the while, as it seemed
with an amused look of impertinence, which aggravated me
considerably. I slowly followed him, vowing to fire the moment I was
within range, whether he moved or not. This time I was more
successful. The guanaco allowed me to come within about the necessary
150 yards. "Poor fellow!" I murmured generously, as I brought my rifle
up to my shoulder and took aim just behind his. Only one step forward
to make quite certain. Alas! I took it, and down I went into a hole,
which in my eagerness I had not noticed, falling rather heavily on my
face. In a second I was up again, just in time to see the guanaco
bounding up a far escarpment, taking with him my chance of becoming
the heroine of the day. There was nothing for it but to walk back to
where I had left my horse, and see what had become of my companions.
I took the same road the guanaco had taken, on the remote possibility
of falling in with him again. Riding up the escarpment above referred
to, I came on to a broad plain, and there an exciting chase was going
on, in which, as it appeared, I was condemned to take the part of a
spectator only. At some distance, and going across my line of sight,
was a guanaco running at full speed, closely followed by a pack of
dogs, in whose track, but some way behind, galloped three horsemen,
whom I made out to be my husband, and brother, and Gregorio. The
guanaco at first seemed to be losing ground, but it was only for an
instant; in another he bounded away with ease, and it was apparent
that as yet he was only playing with his pursuers. The pace soon began
to tell on the dogs; the less speedy were already beginning to tail
off, one of them, probably Gregorio's swift Pié-de-Plata, being far in
advance of its comrades, and by no means to be shaken off by the
guanaco, who had now given up any playful demonstrations of
superiority, and had settled down to run in good earnest.
On, on they go--quarry, dogs, horsemen, will soon be out of sight. But
what's this? The guanaco has stopped! Only for a moment, though. But
he has swerved to the left, and behind him a new dog and horseman have
appeared on the scene, emerging, as if by magic, from the bowels of
the earth. The chase is now better under my view. If some lucky chance
would only bring the guanaco my way! The fresh dog is evidently
discomforting him, and his having had to swerve has brought all the
other dogs a good bit nearer to his heels. But on he goes, running
bravely, and making for the escarpment, for in the hilly country below
he knows he is at an advantage The dogs seem to be aware of this too,
for they redouble their efforts, a splendid race ensuing. Suddenly
another horseman appears on the plateau, and the unfortunate guanaco
must again swerve to the left, a movement which, hurrah! brings him
almost facing towards where I am standing. That is to say, he must
cross the escarpment at some point on a line between myself and the
new-comer, the other horsemen, from the manner the race had been run,
forming a circle in his rear, which debarred his escape in any other
direction. Seeing this, wild with excitement, I dug my spurs into my
horse, and flew along the edge of the escarpment, the horseman on the
other side doing the same, in order to shut out the guanaco and throw
him back on his foes behind. Seeing his last chance about to be cut
off, he redoubled his efforts to get through between us. On, on we
strain. Nearer and nearer he gets to the edge of the plain, and
already, with despair, I see that I shall be too late. But faster even
than the swift guanaco, a gallant blackhound has crept up, and in
another instant, though the former dashes past me within a yard of my
horse's nose and disappears over the side of the escarpment, the good
dog has already made its spring, and, clinging like grim death to the
guanaco's haunch, vanishes with him.
After them, in another instant, swept the whole quarry of dogs, and by
the time I reined in, and got my horse down the steep ravine-side,
they had thrown the guanaco, which Pié-de-Plata had brought to a
standstill below; and Francisco, the horseman who had last appeared on
the plateau, and at so opportune a moment, had already given the
_coup-de-grace_ with his knife.
One after another the other hunters gradually arrived, their horses
more or less blown; and whilst pipes were lit and flasks produced, we
had leisure to examine this, our first guanaco. Looking at his frame,
his long, powerful legs, his deep chest, and body as fine-drawn almost
as a greyhound's, we no longer wondered that guanacos run as swiftly
as they do. Indeed, this one would have laughed at us, had he not been
closed in as he was. The fur of the full-grown guanaco is of a woolly
texture, and in colour of a reddish brown on the back, the neck, and
the quarters; being whitish on the belly and the inner sides of the
legs. The head closely resembles that of a camel; the eyes, which have
a strange look on account of the peculiar shape of the eye bones, are
very large and beautiful. A fair-sized guanaco weighs from 180 to 200
pounds.
Meantime, Gregorio having begun to cut up the guanaco, to our chagrin
it was discovered to be mangy--a disease very common among these
animals, probably on account of the brackishness of the water; and the
meat being consequently unfit for food, we abandoned it to the dogs,
who now made the first good meal they had had since we left Sandy
Point. They were soon gorged to such an extent that they became
useless for hunting purposes, and we had therefore to ride on, now
relying solely on our rifles.
Gregorio had seen a herd of guanacos at the far end of the plain over
which the chase had taken place, and thither we accordingly rode.
After half an hour's galloping, we reached its limit, finding below a
broad valley broken up into various depressions and hillocks. At the
base of one of the latter we saw a small herd of guanaco, within range
of which, by dint of careful stalking, we presently managed to come.
Two fortunate shots brought a couple of their number down, and luckily
both turned out to be quite healthy. Under the skilful manipulation of
Gregorio and Francisco, in a marvellously short space of time they
were cut up, and the meat having been distributed among our various
saddles, heavily laden, we turned homewards.
[Illustration: GUANACOS.]
The way back seemed terribly long, now that we had no longer the
excitement of hunting to shorten the time; and it seemed quite
incredible that we had gone the distance we had been, when, towards
sunset, after a cold and weary ride, we at last stood on the edge of
the plain which overlooked the valley where lay our home for the
nonce.
The evening had turned out fine, the boisterous wind which had annoyed
us so much in the daytime had died away, and the sky was now bright
and clear. Through the branches of the beech trees I could catch a
glimpse of our camp, with its white tents just peeping over the green
bushes, and a thin column of blue smoke rising up into the air,
pleasantly suggestive of warm tea and other comforts awaiting us.
Farther on, in the long green grass of the valley, which was now
glowing under the last rays of the sun, were our horses, some grazing,
others lying stretched out, lazily enjoying their day's respite from
work, whilst the colts and fillies, as is their wont at sundown, were
frisking about and kicking up their heels in all the exuberance of
youth, unconscious as yet of heavy packs and sharp spurs. Whatever
special character the peaceful scene might otherwise want was fully
supplied by the picturesquely wild appearance of my companions, as,
eschewing contemplation, and anticipating dinner, they rode quickly
ahead towards the camp on their shaggy, sturdy horses, their bodies
muffled in the graceful guanaco robe, and huge pieces of red raw meat
dangling on either side of their saddles, followed by the
blood-stained hounds, who seemed thoroughly tired after their hard
day's work.
But whatever country one is in, whatever scenes one may be among--in
one's own cosy snuggery in England, or in the bleak steppes of
Patagonia--there is a peculiar sameness in the feeling that comes over
one towards the hours of evening, and which inevitably calls up the
thought, It must be getting near dinner-time. Yielding to this
admonition, which to-day was by no means less plain than usual, I
quitted my eyrie and rode down to the camp.
When I got there I found preparations for an ample meal in full swing.
Ingeniously spitted on a wooden stave, the whole side of a guanaco was
roasting before a blazing fire, and in the pot a head of the same
animal was yielding its substance towards the production of what I was
assured would turn out an excellent soup. At dinner-time I was able
practically to confirm this assurance; a better broth cannot be
concocted than that obtained from such a guanaco head, with the
addition of rice, dried vegetables, chilis, etc. But, at the risk of
incurring the charge of digressing too much on the subject of eating,
I must pay a tribute to the delicacy of a peculiar morsel in the
guanaco, which we called "Fat-behind-the-Eye," and which is, in fact,
a piece of fat situated as indicated by its name. The tongue and the
brain are rare tit-bits, but they must yield in subtle savouriness to
the aforesaid _bonne-bouche_. Having once tasted it, till the end of
our trip guanaco head formed a standing item in our daily messes, and
whatever other culinary novelties we discussed, and they were as
numerous as strange, "Fat-behind-the-eye" always retained its
supremacy in our affections as the _ne plus ultra_ of pampa
delicacies.