CHAPTER VI

HOME LIFE OF THE OSMANLIS IN ANATOLIA

_Truths can never be confirmed enough,_

_Though doubts did ever sleep._

SHAKESPEARE _“Pericles” V. I._

No part of Asia Minor possesses greater interest for the traveler

of a studious turn than that which borders the Anatolian Railroads.

And this, as the historian well knows, is saying much indeed. For

from time immemorial the peninsula of Asia Minor has been the great

battlefield between the Orient and the Occident. Topographically it is

like a great bridge over which, as has been well said, “the religion,

art and civilization of the East found their way into Greece; and the

civilization of Greece, under the guidance of Alexander the Macedonian,

passed back again across the same bridge to conquer the East and

revolutionize Asia as far as the heart of India. Persians, Arabs,

Mongols, Turks, have all followed the same route in the many attempts

that Asia has made to subdue the West.”[114]

It is the bridge over which passed the famed “Royal Road,” so

graphically described by Herodotus, which extended from Ephesus on

the Ægean Sea to far-off Susa in southern Persia. To make the journey

between these two cities required, according to the same historian, no

less than ninety days. And it was the bridge over which the Christian

pilgrims were wont to pass on their way from Europe to the Holy Land,

and the bridge also which was crossed by the Crusaders under Godefroy

de Bouillon, Louis VII of France, and Frederic Barbarossa when they

sought to recover Jerusalem from the Mohammedans.

The course of the Anatolian Railroad is, for the most part, the same

as that of a great military highway in Roman and Byzantine times from

Nicæa to Dorylæum. And the scenery along it, especially between Ismid

and Eski-Shehr, is often of rare beauty and grandeur. In places it is

much like that of southern Colorado and northern California. There

is the same succession of smiling landscapes--emerald valleys dotted

with modest homesteads, broad stretches of meadow land sprinkled with

sleek herds and happy flocks, noble forests of oak and pine, walnut

and sycamore. In some localities the vegetation is almost of tropical

luxuriance and the road is fringed by a wild tangle of bramble and

brushwood tapestried with clematis and ivy and woodbine in a flaming

setting of dog-rose and azalea.

As we approach Bilejik eastward of the snow-capped Mysian Olympus the

character of the scenery completely changes. The grade of the road

rapidly increases and as we pass along gorges and cañyons, through

tunnels and over bridges and describe innumerable curves we realize

that we are ascending the famed table-land of Anatolia and are nearing

Sugut, the earliest home of the Ottoman Turks.

Eski-Shehr, from which a branch of the Anatolian Railroad runs to

Angora, the ancient Ancyra, is a flourishing town and, thanks to its

finely equipped railway shops, is the home of a large number of railway

employees and their families. Before the world war an excellent school

for the benefit of the children of the employees was established here

and was well attended. It was conducted on the German system and

instruction was given in German. Among the languages taught, besides

German, were Greek, French, Turkish, and Armenian. The town is noted

for being the chief center of the world’s supply of meerschaum,

a commodity from which the Turkish Government derives a handsome

revenue. From Eski-Shehr we went to Afium-Kara-Hissar, from which

great quantities of opium are annually shipped, and thence to Konia,

anciently Iconium, which is the western terminus of the Bagdad Railway.

But more interesting far than its scenic attractions and its historic

ruins, its railroads and various industries, are the people of

Anatolia. And by the people I mean not the foreign element--the Greeks,

Armenians, Circassians, and others, so conspicuous in Smyrna and

Constantinople--but the Osmanlis. For it is not in the large cities of

Turkey, where there is always such a heterogeneous population, that the

Ottoman is found at his best but in the small towns and villages of the

interior of the country and particularly in that portion of the Ottoman

Empire which formerly constituted the emirates of Osman and Orkhan.

No people in the world, it is safe to say, have ever been more

misunderstood or more misrepresented than the Osmanlis. For generations

they have been regarded as a nation guilty of every crime and steeped

in every vice. But since the Bulgarian agitation, in 1876, when Carlyle

wrote “the unspeakable Turk should be immediately struck out of the

question, and the country left to honest European guidance,” the

Osmanlis have been treated as a nation of pariahs who had not to their

credit a single redeeming feature.

They have been denounced as cruel, bloodthirsty, treacherous,

dishonest, intolerant, and fanatical in the extreme. They have been

pilloried as a nation of gross voluptuaries totally devoid of all moral

sense and incapable of any noble sentiment and generous action. They

have been stigmatized as a cancer on the body of humanity that should

be dealt with in the most drastic manner by the Great Powers of Europe.

Gladstone expressed public opinion when, speaking on the Eastern

Question, he said, “Let the Turks now carry away their abuses in the

only possible manner, namely, by carrying away themselves.... One and

all, bag and baggage, shall, I hope, clear out from the province they

have desolated and profaned.”

But what is the truth about the Osmanlis? Are they the vile and

abominable people which Carlyle’s epithet would indicate? And are the

Christian nations of Europe justified in adopting towards them what

the English Conservatives aptly termed “Gladstone’s bag and baggage

policy”?

Let us see.

First of all it may be premised that most of the above indictments

against the Turks have been made by people who have little or no

personal knowledge of them, or by people who have been governed by

passion or prejudice or have been actuated by selfish or political

motives. And, secondly, it may be asserted as a fact that cannot be

gainsaid that those who have lived among the Turks any length of time

and have had an opportunity of becoming intimately acquainted with

them find them to be thoroughly good, gentle, brave, and loyal to the

core. And the longer one lives among them and the better one knows

them the greater is one’s admiration for them. This is especially true

of the real Turk--the Osmanli--particularly those of the peasant and

bourgeois class in Anatolia. These are as honest and upright as they

are temperate, pious, and religious.

The piety and the devotion of the Moslems, their gravity and solemnity

and reverential attitude during prayer, whether in the mosque or

elsewhere, are of such character as to make a deep impression on even

the least religious. “I have never entered a mosque,” writes Renan,

“without a deep emotion, and--shall I say it?--without a certain regret

at not being a Mussulman.”[115]

This devout character of the Mohammedans which so profoundly impressed

Renan, appealed with equal force to the poet who wrote:

_Most honor to the men of prayer,_

_Whose mosque is in them everywhere!_

_Who amid revel’s wildest din,_

_In war’s severest discipline,_

_On rolling deck, in thronged bazaar,_

_In stranger land, however far,

However different in their reach_

_Of thought, in manners, dress or speech,--_

_Will quietly their carpet spread,_

_To Mekkeh turn the humble head,_

_As if blind to all around,_

_And deaf to each resounding sound_

_In ritual language God adore,_

_In spirit to His presence soar,_

_And in the pauses of the prayer,_

_Rest, as if rapt in glory there._

Many, if not most of the erroneous notions which have been obtained

respecting the Osmanlis have had their origin, at least in the minds

of the great majority of people, in the ludicrous conceptions which

have long been current regarding the harem life of these much maligned

people. When a harem is referred to in Europe or America it is pictured

as consisting of a swarthy, fierce, and sensual pasha, seated on a

broad divan, garbed in richly embroidered robes, armed with a highly

ornate scimitar, and contentedly smoking his narghile while his

ever-youthful wives are entertaining him with music and dance and song.

Nothing could be more preposterous, or further from the reality. For

monogamy and not polygamy is the rule in the Ottoman Empire especially

in Anatolia, and always has been. The Koran does, indeed, permit

polygamy but under such restrictions that a plurality of wives is

confined to those who are able to make due provision for their support.

And even among the wealthy monogamy is daily becoming more prevalent.

Thus the late Sultan, Mohammed V, unlike some of his polygamous

predecessors, had but a single wife and to her, also unlike his

predecessors, he was legally married.

Indeed, so unpopular has polygamy become among enlightened Mussulmans

that an eminent authority on the subject declares that “if

Mohammedanism had a Pope and a Church, in a word, an authority always

living and invested with the right to modify the precepts of the

Koran, in order to adapt them to the needs of the age, it is almost

certain that polygamy would already have disappeared.”[116]

Much of the prevailing misconception concerning the harem life in

the Orient arises from the lamentable ignorance in our western lands

regarding the true meaning of the word harem. To many who should know

better it is synonymous with a place of debauchery, whereas, it is, on

the contrary, the very opposite of this. Derived from the Arabic word

_harim_, Turkish _harem_, it signifies anything forbidden

or a sacred thing or place. Thus the part of a Moslem’s home which is

assigned for the exclusive use of his wife and children, for their

female servants and friends is called the harem. It is their sanctuary

to which no males are admitted except the immediate members of the

family. It may be but the half of a Bedouin “House of hair,” or the

wing of a marble palace on the Bosphorus but it is still the harem--the

sacred abode, the _sanctum sanctorum_, of the feminine members of

the household and women visitors.[117]

In ordinary Ottoman houses the harem occupies the upper story and is

the best and most commodious part of the building. The usual term

employed to designate the wife’s apartment is _haremlik_, while

that occupied by the husband--his reception room where he receives

his male friends--is known as _selamlik_, and is generally on

the ground floor. The women’s apartment is always recognized by its

screened windows. The occupants of the _haremlik_ can thus see

everything in the immediate vicinity without being seen.

The name _harem_ applies not only to the wife’s part of the

home but also to the sections reserved for women on tram cars and

steamers, and to the women’s waiting rooms in railway stations and

women’s compartments on railway trains. The harem, thus understood,

is an institution that has very much to recommend it. It secures its

occupants a privacy which, in the estimation of Oriental women, more

than counterbalances their apparent loss of liberty.

But, contrary to what is usually thought, the harem is not a

Mohammedan institution. It long antedates Islam for, as archæological

investigations in the Orient clearly evince, there were separate

apartments for women in the buildings of ancient Persia, Assyria, and

Babylonia.[118]

Nor do the inmates of the harem consider themselves as imprisoned in

their houses like birds in a cage. Far from it. Mrs. Meer Ali, an

English lady who married a Mohammedan gentleman and resided twelve

years in Lucknow, India, clearly states the Oriental women’s view of

harem life when she writes:

To ladies accustomed from infancy to confinement, this kind

of life is by no means irksome. They have their employments

and their amusements, and though these are not exactly to our

tastes, nor suited to our mode of education, they are not the

less relished by those for whom they were invented. They,

perhaps, wonder equally at some of our modes of dissipating

time and fancy we might spend it more profitably. Be that as it

may, the Muslim ladies, with whom I have been long intimate,

appear to me always happy, contented and satisfied with the

seclusion to which they were born; they desire no other, and

I have ceased to regret that they cannot be made partakers of

that freedom of intercourse with the world we deem so essential

to our happiness, since their health suffers nothing from that

confinement by which they are preserved from a variety of snares

and temptations; besides which they would deem it disgraceful

in the highest degree to mix indiscriminately with men who are

not relations. They are educated from infancy for retirement and

they can have no wish that the custom should be changed which

keeps them apart from the society of men who are not very nearly

related to them. Female society is unlimited and they enjoy it

without restraint.[119]

What has been said of the harem may also be asserted of the

yashmak--the veil worn by most Oriental women, irrespective of

race or creed. When women appear in public,--and they have great

liberty in this respect, if properly veiled--this garb or the

_tcharchaff_, possesses many advantages which Christian as well as

Moslem women would be loath to forego. For like the latticed window

of the harem it enables them to see without being seen and like the

caliph of the story, they can freely move through a crowd without

having their identity known. Furthermore, when enveloped in her

_ferijee_--cloak--and _yashmak_, the person of the Oriental woman is

as secure as in the harem and she is thus safeguarded against all the

annoyances and insults to which her western sisters, especially those

in the larger cities, are so frequently exposed. Some of the Ottoman

suffragettes of Stamboul may envy the European women their gorgeous

Parisian hats and gowns, but I am quite convinced that many western

women would gladly exchange the creations of Worth and Redfern for

the _tcharchaff_ or for the _ferijee_ and the _yashmak_, or for the

_bash-oordoo_ and the _yeldirmee_--which serve the same purpose--and

all the immunities and privileges which these kinds of apparel secure

to the wearer.

Again much has been said about the cruel treatment which Ottoman women

have to endure from their husbands. To judge by the accounts of certain

writers who substitute fancy for fact, the average Turkish husband is

a Bluebeard who makes his wife’s life one continuous martyrdom. Such

reports are as ill-founded as all the fantastic tales that have so long

obtained credence respecting the harem and other matters pertaining to

the everyday life of the Ottoman Turk. But, as in these things it is

impossible for a man to obtain first-hand information, I shall quote

from a woman who had exceptional opportunities of becoming thoroughly

acquainted with the home life of the Osmanlis of Anatolia and whose

conclusions, therefore, are of preponderant value.

This woman is Lady Ramsay, the gifted wife of Sir W. M. Ramsay,

the distinguished archæologist of Aberdeen. Professor Ramsay whose

investigations in Anatolia extend over a period of thirty-five years

is probably the greatest living authority on the history of this part

of Asia and on the manners and customs of its inhabitants. As Lady

Ramsay frequently accompanied her husband on his expeditions which led

him to very nook and corner of the country, she had absolutely unique

opportunities for studying the home life of the Ottoman women of Asia

Minor. As a result of her observations she does not hesitate to declare

that “cases of brutality on the part of a man towards his wife are a

hundred times commoner among the lower classes of this country”--Great

Britain--“than they are in Turkey.”[120]

Such testimony coming from a witness so competent and so impartial

should be conclusive. The reports to the contrary of men who have

traveled in Anatolia are of no value whatever, for the simple reason

that these men could not possibly get information at first hand.

For the _harem_ is everywhere absolutely barred to them, and

what information they might get would necessarily be based on idle

rumor and therefore quite valueless. Women, however, even when total

strangers, are always hospitably received by their Ottoman sisters.

And if they are able to speak the language of the country, they

have little difficulty in becoming quite familiar with the everyday

life of the people. But men, no matter how extensive their travels

in Anatolia, will all be forced to confess with a noted English

traveler--“throughout our journey, the female sex may be said not to

have existed for us at all.”[121]

Much has been said about the divorce evil in Turkey. No doubt this

does constitute a foul blot on the social system of Islam but it is not

so bad as it is usually represented. The Koran safeguards the rights of

the wife in many ways and public opinion is daily becoming more opposed

to a man’s arbitrary repudiation of his wife. In spite, however, of

the present facile dissolution of the marriage bond the frequency of

divorce in Anatolia is far less than in many parts of the United States.

The Turkish wife [writes another English traveler who had spent

many years in the Ottoman Empire] has been called a slave

and a chattel. She is neither. Indeed her legal status is

preferable to that of the majority of the wives in Europe and,

until enactments of a comparatively recent date, the English

was far more of a chattel than the Turkish wife who has always

had absolute control of her property. The law allows her the

free use and disposal of anything she may possess at the time

of her marriage, or that she may inherit afterwards. She may

distribute it during her life, or she may bequeath it to whom

she chooses. In the eyes of the law she is a free agent. She may

act independently of her husband, may sue in the courts or may

be proceeded against without regard to him.[122]

The same author, in referring to the attachment of husband and wife for

each other, declares that among the Turkish peasantry “one meets with

Darby and Joan as frequently as in England.”[123]

“How far removed are we then,” asks an Ottoman gentleman, “from the

seductive odalisques whose pictures, in the East, are only to be seen

on biscuit tins.”[124]

But a stranger error than any yet referred to is that which asserts

that the Ottomans and Mohammedans generally deny to women the

possession of a soul as well as a future existence. How such an opinion

originated or gained such wide acceptance is impossible to say. I have

never known an Ottoman to hold such a view, and there is certainly no

warrant for it in the Koran. And yet in an article on “Woman’s Place in

the World,” written but a few years ago by a noted duchess in England,

it is explicitly stated that Mohammedanism “consigns woman, as far as

psychic qualities are concerned, to the level of beasts, forbidding her

forever the hope of salvation.”[125]

A few quotations from the Koran will suffice to show how groundless is

this statement. In the twentieth sura--chapter--we read:

O my servants--enter ye into Paradise, ye and your wives, with

great joy.

Again the Koran declares:

But he who doeth good works--be it male or female--and believes,

they shall enter into Paradise.

In the thirty-third sura it is written:

Verily the Moslems of either sex, and the true believers of

either sex, and the devout men and the devout women, and the men

of veracity and the women of veracity, and the patient men and

the patient women, and the humble men and the humble women, and

the almsgivers of either sex, and the men who fast and women

who fast, and the chaste men and the chaste women, and those

of either sex who remember God frequently, for them hath God

prepared forgiveness and a great reward.

According to the teaching of Mohammed, all true Moslems are enjoined

to pray for the dead--for the women as well as for the men. This, of

itself, is sufficient evidence of Islamic belief in the future life for

all mankind, irrespective of sex. There are, doubtless, in Turkey as

elsewhere, men who deny immortality to women, but these are confined

to that class of Moslems “who, having made shipwreck of their faith,”

prefer to class themselves with the beasts of the field by denying that

they themselves have souls.

Surprising as it may seem to some, no more beautiful tributes to

women can be found than those given in the Koran, or in the Hadith

which contains the traditional teachings of Mohammed. In one place

the Prophet declares “the world and all things in it are valuable but

more valuable than all is a virtuous woman”; in another he asserts

that “women are the twin-halves of men.” Again, he tells his followers

that “the son gains Paradise at the feet of the mother”; and yet again

we have his truly remarkable statement that “Paradise is beneath the

ground on which mothers walk.” Are not these amazing words to proceed

from the lips of a seventh century Arabian?

One need spend but little time in Anatolia to find that the men among

the Osmanlis are a most lovable people. What first impresses one is

their good manners. Whether they live in a palace or a hovel they are

always self-respecting, courteous, and dignified. In this respect

they continually remind one of the people of Spain where courtesy is a

national heritage. It was this striking characteristic of the Osmanli

that led Bismarck to declare:

In the Orient the only gentleman is the Turk.[126]

Another national characteristic of the Osmanlis is cleanliness.

Their homes, however humble, are as scrupulously swept and scrubbed

as a Dutch dwelling place.[127] And the same may be said of their

coffeehouses and restaurants. In this respect they are in marked

contrast with those of the Greeks and Arabs.

Many writers have endeavored to account for the exceptional courtesy

and cleanliness of the Osmanlis, but the reasons usually advanced

are far from satisfactory. “Their religion,” writes Sir Edwin Pears,

“inculcates cleanliness and sobriety; ... it has helped to diffuse

courtesy and self-respect among its adherents.”[128]

If this were true it should hold good for the Moslems of Egypt and

Morocco which, as all travelers in these countries know, is very often

far from the case. When we shall be able to assign a reason for the

matchless courtesy of the Castilian hidalgo or for the Dutch hausfrau’s

singular love of cleanliness, we shall probably find an acceptable

explanation of the seemingly innate courtesy and cleanliness of the

Osmanlis of Anatolia.

And contrary to almost universal belief, the Osmanlis, both men and

women are a people of very industrious habits. This is particularly

true of those who make their living by tilling the soil and by tending

their flocks and herds. So far as the men are concerned the traveler

has ample evidence of their toilsome lives from the time he leaves

the swift-flowing Bosphorus until he arrives at the foothills of the

picturesque Taurus. As to the women they are, according to those who

know them best, as laborious as the men. A competent witness, one who

is himself an Ottoman, who was born and bred in Anatolia and whose

testimony regarding the domestic life of his countrymen bears the

clearest impress of truth, is the clever and entertaining Halil Halid

who, having spent many years in England, writes English as a native.

Speaking of his countrywomen he declares:

No qualities are so much sought after in average marriageable

women as the domestic ones. In the provinces the peasant women,

besides managing their humble domestic affairs, have to work in

the fields, more especially when their brothers and husbands

are away discharging their compulsory military service. The

daughters of well-to-do people, besides attending to the

business of their households, are indefatigable with their

needles and are always busy with needle work or embroidery.[129]

It will be understood from the details I have given [he

continues], that the popular notion prevailing in this country

of the harem and the life of the harem is much mistaken. Women

in Turkish harems do not really pass their time in lying on

sofas or couches eating sweetmeats and smoking water-pipes all

the day long. Of course, they are as fond of sweet-stuffs as

most ladies of this country. But to lie down on a couch in the

presence of others is considered by Turkish women vulgarity of

the most disgraceful kind.

The representations of harem life given in books and on the

stage or shown in exhibitions, is either the work of Turkey’s

detractors or simply the work of imaginative persons who know

nothing about it and whose object is to attract the curiosity of

English people by exhibiting grotesque sights and thus to make

money.

Many Europeans [writes the same author] who pay a flying

visit to the Levant and hasten to sit down and write a book

about their experiences, derive all their information from

their cicerones and interpreters [worthless and unscrupulous

fellows whom our author justly denounces as ignorant and

shameless cheats] who are, as a class, of the worst products

of non-Mussulman natives of the Levant. Probably it is on

account of this that a countryman of mine once remarked: “When

we read such books, especially those written in English, about

ourselves, we always learn something from them which we never

knew or heard of before.”[130]

“But,” it will be asked, “what about the morality of the Turks”?

This is a question that is continually asked and about which as many

erroneous notions prevail as about the harem. One might answer by

saying that, where passion is given free rein, poor human nature is

about the same in all parts of the world. I shall, however, reply in

the words of the witty and vivacious Lady Mary Montague who, writing

from Constantinople where her husband was ambassador, to a friend in

England, declares:

As to their morality or good conduct, I can say, like Harlequin,

that it is just as it is with you; and the Turkish ladies don’t

commit one sin the less for not being Christians. Now that I am

a little acquainted with their ways, I cannot forbear admiring,

either the exemplary discretion, or extreme stupidity of all the

writers that have given accounts of them.[131]

As to “the infamous vices” of which the Mussulman Orient is said to

be the chief theater, it will be sufficient for our present purpose

to quote the words of one who has spent many years among the Moslems

and who has, probably, as thorough a knowledge of them as any recent

writer. “Is it, then, true,” demands the distinguished Count Henri de

Castries, “that these vices are more numerous in the Orient than in the

Occident? This reputation given to Islam is the result of superficial

generalizations without which travelers would have scarcely anything

to write. These vices of mature age are, unfortunately, common to all

countries. More of them are indulged in Paris, London, and Berlin than

in the entire Orient.”

It would be difficult to find people who are more distinguished for

natural virtues than are the Osmanlis who have not been debased by

oppression or corrupted by power. Their love of the simple life is

remarkable. Often their only fare is bread and water. To this they may

add a little cheese and fruit and some vegetables. The majority are

vegetarians. Of those who are not, their meat diet consists chiefly of

mutton and fowl which is usually prepared with rice or with vegetables.

Beef they rarely eat and pork never, for its use as an article of food

is strictly proscribed by the Koran.

And yet, notwithstanding their frugal fare, they are noted for their

health and strength. “As strong as a Turk” has long been a proverb. And

when one sees the amazing burdens which the _hamals_ of Stamboul

frequently carry, one is ready to admit that the proverb is more than

justified.

The chief beverage of the Osmanlis is water, for the Koran absolutely

forbids the use of intoxicating drinks of any kind whatsoever. For the

Osmanli, therefore, the dramshop does not exist. He does, however, love

his little cup of black coffee. Although the Moslem doctors of the

law originally interdicted its use as the invention of the devil, the

drinking of coffee in Mohammedan countries is now universal.

I know of only one prettier picture of contentment than an Osmanli

peasant taking his cup of coffee before going to work in the morning

or after the labors of the day, and that is when he indulges in

his favorite pastime of Kaif--which is perhaps best expressed by

the Italian phrase, _dolce far niente_. Garbed in his brown

shalvar--baggy trousers--blue jacket, red sash, and white stockings,

and sitting before his home under a tentlike plane tree, quietly

smoking his narghile, with drooped eyelids and rapt countenance, he

is the personification of comfort and happiness. Tranquil, immobile,

absorbed in an enchanting reverie, how far is he not removed from the

unbridled desires and malignant envy of the restless populace of our

large cities of the West!

_Ah! qu’il est doux de ne rien faire_

_Quand tout s’agite autour de nous!_

What a subject for the brush of a Villegas or a Fortuny![132]

And then the honesty of this quiet peasant of simple tastes and

harmless pleasures. He would never cheat you. Even if he be but a poor

fruit seller, gaining but a pittance for a day’s labor, he will always

add something to the amount called for, for fear of having made a

mistake in the amount due the purchaser. If you should be his guest,

you may sleep in his home with open doors. Nobody will molest you and

your belongings will be as safe as if under lock and key. So great,

indeed, is the reputation of the Osmanli for probity and sterling

honesty that:

Among men, who do not concern themselves with politics, but

whose fortune and interests are bound up in the country, the

vast majority prefer the Turk to any other denizen of the land

for his integrity and trustworthiness.

The proof of it is that it is to him they confide the care of

their property. There are English families that have existed in

Turkey for generations, and generations of Turks have served

them in positions of trust. These are invariably Turks of the

old school, good Mussulmans and simple in their thoughts and

lives. A finer type of men no land can show, and happily they

are not yet rare.[133]

Nor does one find elsewhere such humane treatment of dumb animals.

“Fear God with regard to animals,” enjoined Mohammed, “ride them when

they are fit to be ridden and get off when they are tired. Verily

there are rewards for our doing good to dumb animals and giving them

water to drink.” No Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals

is needed among the Osmanlis for so strong a sympathy exists between

this gentle and tender-hearted people and all domestic animals that

anything like cruel treatment would be impossible. Even the dog, which

is considered as an unclean animal, is always treated with kindness.

An Osmanli will gather together the folds of his garments to prevent

his coming in contact with the impure brute but will at the same time

gladly divide with it his last morsel of food.

There are few writers who are more familiar with the real Ottomans than

the distinguished Academician, Pierre Loti. And this is what he says of

them:

Nowhere, so much as among the Turks--the real Turks--does one

find solicitude for the poor, the helpless, the aged and for

children; such respect for parents, such tender veneration for

the _mother_. If a man, even of mature years, should be

seated in one of those innocent little cafés, where alcohol has

always been unknown, and his father should unexpectedly enter,

he rises, lowers his voice, extinguishes his cigarette, and

humbly takes a seat behind him.[134]

Elsewhere the same sympathetic and magnanimous author writes:

Their little towns located in the interior, their villages,

their country homes, are the last refuges not only of the calm

but also of the patriarchal virtues which are more and more

disappearing from our modern world: loyalty and honesty without

blemish; veneration of children for parents of a kind that is

not longer known to us; inexhaustible hospitality and chivalrous

respect for guests; moral elegance and native delicacy, even

among the most humble; kindness towards all--even towards

animals; unbounded religious tolerance for whomsoever is not

their enemy; serene faith and prayer. When arriving among them

after leaving our Occident of doubt and cynicism, of noise and

scrap-iron, one feels as if suffused with peace and confidence

and believes he has remounted the course of time towards some

indeterminate epoch, near, perhaps, to the Golden Age.[135]

In Anatolia particularly are applicable the words of the English

traveler, Walpole, who, when speaking of the hospitability of the

people of Turkey, tells us that “in the East alone now do we find in

the Oda Nessafer of the village the guest-chamber of Plato. A sum

is set apart by the government for supplying these; though usually

the more wealthy traveler repays what he receives, adding a small

gratuity.”[136]

In hospitality the Osmanlis of to-day are heirs of the best traditions

of the Greeks of old who, as Homer informs us, were wont to say:

_For Jove unfolds our hospitable door:_

_’Tis Jove that sends the stranger and the poor._[137]

One of the most striking instances of Osmanli hospitality of which I

have recently heard is an experience of my good Franciscan friend,

the Reverend Paschal Robinson, Professor of History in the Catholic

University of America in Washington, D. C. Some years ago he had

occasion to travel through the greater part of Asia Minor. During the

seven months of his journey he was always the guest of the Turks, who

were all Moslems. And yet, although he was an entire stranger among

them, the generous and courteous Osmanlis everywhere received him with

the most cordial hospitality. Not only did they supply him gratis with

food and shelter, but they also provided him with the necessary means

of transportation from one place to another. And never would they

accept the slightest compensation for their services.

My actual traveling expenses during these seven months [Father

Paschal assures me] were the equivalent of only seven American

dollars. And, although the passport requirements in Turkey have

always been exceedingly strict, I never carried a passport and

nobody ever asked me for one. My habit which I always wore in

Anatolia was my passport.

But for members of his order, Father Paschal’s case is not exceptional.

In Moslem lands the Sons of St. Francis are always shown similar

kindness and consideration and have been ever since the famous

interview of the Poverello of Assisi with the Sultan of Egypt at

Damietta eight hundred years ago. Can greater hospitality be found in

other lands?

By the hammering reiteration of a tradition which, for most part, had

its origin in the reports of imaginative travelers and which has, in

recent years, been greatly fostered by a subsidized press bent on

forcing the dismemberment of the Ottoman Empire, the Osmanlis have

been pictured as monsters of cruelty. To judge by certain propaganda

articles and brochures which, within recent years, have been given

world-wide currency, the average Ottoman is like the viceroy described

in Don Quixote, who “every day hanged a slave; impaled one; cut off the

ears of another; and this upon so little animus, or so entirely without

cause, that the Turks would own he did it merely for the sake of doing

it, and because it was his nature.”[138] People who have lived among

the Osmanlis and have learned to admire their gentleness and sense of

justice would denounce such a characterization as absurd.

“During the two years I have traversed the country,” writes a French

Colonel from Asia Minor, “I have never heard of a murder or a theft.”

This is not the evidence of a solitary witness. Innumerable foreigners

who have resided in Anatolia could give similar testimony.[139]

Nor does it apply only to the Osmanlis of the present time. History

abounds in like testimony regarding them in every century of their

history.

It is surprising [writes the historian Finlay] how well the

Ottoman government preserved tranquillity in its extensive

dominions, and established a greater degree of security for

property among the middle classes, than generally prevailed in

European states during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

This end was obtained by a regular police, and by the prompt

execution of a rude species of justice in cases of flagrant

abuses and crimes. In the populous cities of the Ottoman Empire,

and particularly in Constantinople, which contained more

inhabitants than any three Christian capitals, the order which

reigned in the midst of a great social corruption, caused by

extreme wealth, the conflux of many different nations, and the

bigotry of several hostile religions, excited the wonder and

admiration of every observant stranger. Perfect self-reliance,

imperturbable equanimity, superiority to the vicissitudes of

fortune, and a calm temper, compensated among the Ottomans for

laws which were notoriously defective and tribunals which were

infamously venal.

Knolles says, “You seldom see a murder or a theft committed by any

Turk.” European gentlemen accustomed to the barbarous custom of wearing

swords on all occasions, were surprised to see Turks of the highest

rank, distinguished for their valor and military exploits, walking

about even in provincial towns, unarmed, secure in the power of public

order and the protection of the executive authority in the State.[140]

But, it is asked, do not the reported atrocities of the Turks in

Armenia and the Balkans prove that their reputation for the most

frightful deeds of savagery is established beyond peradventure? An

adequate answer to this question would lead us too far afield, for

the Osmanlis, unlike their enemies, have few champions or political

knights-errant, and our information, therefore, respecting the

atrocities in question is almost entirely one-sided. To those, however,

who are desirous of reading the Ottoman side of the question I would

recommend the thoroughly documented work of Pierre Loti entitled

_Turquie Agonisante_.[141] A careful perusal of this work will

convince any impartial reader that in this, as in every other question,

“the unspeakable Turk” is far from being “the homicide of all human

kind” he is so frequently pictured to be.

I would not, however, have it inferred from the foregoing pages that I

ignore the corruption and organized bribery and the extent to which the

government is made to subserve the interests of those who govern rather

than those who are governed. This condition has existed in Turkey from

time immemorial, not only in the administration of governmental affairs

but in the administration of justice as well. But it is, unfortunately,

a condition that exists in all parts of the Orient from Constantinople

to Peking.[142]

Nor am I blind to the incalculable miseries to which the peasantry

of Anatolia are exposed by the ravenous tax-gatherers who rob them

of their little savings and keep many of them in constant penury.

The exactions and cruelties of these soulless agents of Turkish

misrule are almost incredible. It is these oppressive measures of

Turkish maladministration, coupled with the opening of the Suez Canal,

which have done much to close the overland trade routes to which

Anatolia owed much of its former prosperity. It is to be hoped that

the reorganized Ottoman government will succeed in eliminating the

crying evils here indicated, but they are of so long standing that

statesmanship of the highest order will be required to deal with a

situation which is now almost desperate.

In marked contrast to the administrative bribery and corruption which

have so long been the bane of Turkey, as well as of so many Eastern

countries, is the remarkable spirit of tolerance which distinguishes

the Ottoman government. Thus when the members of religious

orders--priests and nuns--were cruelly driven from France they were

cordially welcomed by Turkey--the reputed home of intolerance and

fanaticism--where they were guaranteed full liberty to continue their

apostolate of education and charity.[143]

The opposition raised a few years ago by an uncontrollable mob to the

passing of a procession in honor of the Blessed Sacrament through

the streets of London is still fresh in the memory of all. Contrast

this with the attitude of the people of Constantinople to a similar

ceremony. The following account of the procession is translated from

the Turkish newspaper, the _Stamboul_:

On Sunday last took place the _annual_ procession--I

underscore the word annual--of Corpus Christi. The brilliance

of the fête was heightened by the presence of Monsignor Nardi,

and all the Catholic colony of the neighborhood assembled in

the pretty church to see and hear its first pastor. Towards

five o’clock the procession emerged amid a vast concourse

of spectators who lined the way on either hand, the sacred

_cortège_ marching to the music of liturgical chants and

the band of the Salesian Fathers. In front walked the school

children, after them the faithful, then the clergy and notables

of Makri Keui, while in the rear Monsignor Nardi, surrounded

by the clergy, bore the Blessed Sacrament. Perfect order was

maintained by the police with a degree of tact which did honor

to the force. And for the space of an hour the procession

traversed the gayly decorated streets of the quarter, which

had been newly graveled for the occasion by the orders of

the worthy and ever-courteous president of the municipality,

Sherif Effendi. Such ceremonies leave a pleasant impression in

a country like Turkey where everyone is free to practice his

religion according to the dictates of his conscience.[144]

The same freedom of worship, notwithstanding reports to the contrary,

is enjoyed by the Armenians. They are, besides, left perfectly free

to have their own schools and to retain their own language. They have

not had such liberty in Russia. “For six hundred years the Armenians

were contented under the dominion of the Turks,” declared one of their

bishops a few years ago, and they would, doubtless, be still living in

peace with their old masters were it not for the machination of Russian

propagandists and Armenian revolutionists. The proof of this is that

“the highroad from Trebizond to Erzeroum ... is dotted with Christian

monasteries and churches unmolested for centuries.”[145]

Napoleon I was wont to say that a lie, given twenty-four hours’ start,

becomes immortal. But, when lies about the Turks have been repeated for

generations in spite of the official denials of the Ottoman government

and in spite of the contradictions of men who have long lived among

these much misunderstood and greatly misrepresented people, what hope,

one may ask, can there be for the final triumph of truth? What can be

done to counteract shameless calumnies and official _dementis_

when the greater part of the press is either muzzled or avowedly

hostile and when public opinion has been so utterly poisoned by long

and constant reiteration of all kinds of vilification and slander that

the unfortunate victims are everywhere prejudiced and denied the right

of a hearing which the law--not to speak of Christian charity--of all

civilized nations accords to even the worst of criminals?

“Professional scribblers,” writes Pierre Loti, “who have never set

foot in Turkey, expectorate ‘great historical romances’ on the ‘Tigers

of the Bosphorus’ and the ‘Monsters of Stamboul.’”[146] “And they go

so far even as to confound the true Turks with that aggregation of

sharpers from all the Balkan and Levantine races who put on a fez in

order to live among the Anatolians as gnawing parasites, parasites to

the bone, whose depredations and usury, ruining entire villages, would

almost excuse the worst vengeance of the rude and upright laborers of

Anatolia who finally revolted.”[147]

Sidney Whitman, the distinguished English author who knows Turkey so

well, is at one with the illustrious Academician when he writes:

In the course of my many visits to Constantinople I have

repeatedly been made acquainted with instances of questionable

newspaper correspondents who came to the Palace with the

scarcely veiled intimation that it was to be a case of pay or

slander. During the Armenian disturbances in 1896 a French

female journalist went up to the Palace and openly declared that

she intended to be paid or write up “atrocities.”[148]

But, notwithstanding the lurid tales that have so long been circulated

about the Osmanlis, they have, nevertheless, loyal friends where one

would least expect to find them. I have adduced in their favor the

testimony of those who from long association among them have learned

to know them and admire them for their splendid human qualities. Among

these witnesses to the virtues of the Osmanlis are French, English, and

American men whose competence is as incontrovertible as their authority

is unimpeachable. It were easy to add to the number and among them we

should find French, Italian, and German priests and bishops, Sisters of

Charity and _religieuses_ of the various teaching orders who have

spent long years among the Osmanlis in all parts of the Ottoman Empire

and their testimony would confirm that already introduced.

It may, however, be urged that the testimony in question is that of

friends and sympathizers. It affords me, therefore, special pleasure to

reproduce here the generous appreciation of “The Terrible Turk” which

has recently appeared in the _Pall Mall Gazette_[149] from the pen

of a Serbian gentleman who has had an opportunity of knowing him in war

as well as in peace. It fully corroborates all that has been stated

in the preceding pages and is as great an evidence of the writer’s

nobility of soul, as it is a splendid tribute to the character of a

whilom foe:

We Serbians are fighting against the Turks with all our might,

but we do not wish to be unjust to them. I am perfectly

certain that every Serbian soldier, marching now victoriously

through Macedonia and Albania, and every wounded Serbian lying

somewhere in a hospital, and every Serbian mother, sister,

wife, sweetheart, who has lost her son, or her brother, or her

husband, or her lover, on one of the many bloody battlefields,

would applaud my effort to do justice to our enemy. And,

therefore, I do not hesitate to say a good word for the Turk. I

do homage not to the Turk, but to truth.

An average Turk--or shall I perhaps call him a normal Turk?--is

an excellent man. He believes in God, and prays to God more

earnestly and more intensely than an average or normal Christian

does. And he persistently and honestly tries to conform his

everyday life to the commandments of his great Prophet. He is

charitable, honest, trustworthy; he is modest, yet dignified;

he is proud, but not vain; he is brave, but not boastful; he

is sober, clean, polite; he is generally poor, but always

hospitable; and he is patriotic, ready to starve and suffer

and die, without a murmur, for his faith and the honor of his

country. But this excellent, virtuous, and God-fearing brave man

is heavy, slow and somewhat stupid, and in the electrical and

aeroplanic twentieth century cannot stand against scientific

organizations and quick-firing guns of the clever, sharp-witted

Greeks, Serbians, and Bulgars.

The Turk was master of the Balkan nations for nearly five

centuries. During all those centuries he consistently refrained

from interfering with our national churches and with our village

municipal life. From the liberty which the Turk left to our

Church and our municipal life in the country, our political

liberty was re-born. But, notwithstanding his religious

tolerance and his non-interference with our village life, we

hated him as long as, and just because he was our master. But

now, when our victories have deprived him of his position as

master of our countries, we will be pleased to have him for our

friend, because--although he is not exactly a “jolly”--he is

certainly a good fellow.

How different is this portrait of “The Unspeakable Turk,” painted by

one who knew him by life-long association from that of the atrabilious

author of _Sartor Resartus_, whose delineation of him was based on

fancy and prejudice, if not on pathetic ignorance!

The great trouble in Asia Minor to-day is an economic one. This is the

verdict of those who are most competent to judge--of those who have

lived among the Osmanlis for years and have only words of praise for

their many natural virtues and their abounding goodness of heart. It

is the verdict of men and women to whom the brotherhood of man and

the fatherhood of God are not empty words, of those who believe that

the precepts of Christian charity are as obligatory for nations as for

individuals, and that it behooves the Great Powers to assist in its

economic stress at least this part of the Ottoman Empire and to help

it to develop its marvelous natural resources. Were they to do this,

Anatolia would again blossom as the rose and flourish once more as

it did in the heyday of Greek and Roman splendor. But such altruism

is quite alien to the self-seeking policy of the dominant nations

of Europe. Acting on the theory that might makes right they coolly

proceed to the dismemberment of the empire and endeavor to justify

it by alleging, in French diplomatic phrase, the requirements of the

_action civilisatrice_ of Western as against Eastern civilization

while every one who thinks knows that the real reason is the lust of

conquest.

Although I do not hold a brief for the Osmanlis, I would make a plea

for more tolerance for a people who have so long exhibited such

tolerance toward others. Having myself been among the number of those

who unconsciously did grave injustice to them before I came to know

them as they are, I feel that I am fully warranted in urging a change

of attitude towards them. Equitable statesmanship, as well as Christian

charity, demands such a change. We can never hope to remove the barrier

between the East and the West, between Islam and Christianity, so long

as the age-long misunderstandings and misrepresentations above referred

to continue to separate peoples who should live in union and harmony.

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