Cedar Chest Designs
Variety in design is so essential in cabinet making classes that a
number of different styles of chests are presented in this chapter.
Although a great many teachers follow the practice of giving the
student a working drawing to follow, it is recommended that the designs
herewith presented be used only as models—that from them each boy
will combine, and add his own ideas to evolve what may be called “an
original design.” Only by so doing will the student derive his greatest
benefit from the work.
DESIGN NO. 2
In Fig. 18 is presented a perspective of the chest whose working
drawing is given in Fig. 17. This chest is very similar to Design No. 1
described in the previous chapter. Its dimensions are practically the
same, but in this case, the ends are fastened to the sides, and the end
grain—appearing on the front—is covered by a curved piece of cedar 1¾”
wide. The feet also differ as the detail shows.
[Illustration: Fig. 18]
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 3_
Fig. 19]
[Illustration: Fig. 20]
DESIGN NO. 3
In this design we have a larger chest than the previous, but whose
construction is the same. The end grain, appearing on the front, is
covered with strips of copper. These may be put on as corners extending
over the ends also, or merely as plates on the front, as Fig. 20
illustrates. The feet are detailed with Design No. 1.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 4_
Fig. 21]
[Illustration: Fig. 22]
DESIGN NO. 4
One of the most popular chest designs is illustrated in Fig. 21. In
this, the edges are rounded, giving it an easy, graceful appearance. It
requires careful, accurate work, as the joints can not be covered with
strips or copper as with the previous styles.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 5_
Fig. 23]
[Illustration: Fig. 24]
DESIGN NO. 5
In Fig. 24 is shown a chest whose design permits it to be used as
a window seat when covered with a cushion. Its appearance is very
attractive as it has heavy, massive ends, giving it an air of solidity.
The ends can be built up flush, as the drawing, Fig. 23, illustrates,
or paneled. A ¾” strip is glued to the front edge of the top, making
it appear to be as thick as the ends. The drawings illustrate copper
plates on the front, but, if good work is accomplished, these may well
be omitted.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 6_
Fig. 25]
[Illustration: Fig. 26]
DESIGN NO. 6
A paneled chest, Figs. 25 and 26, looks well when accurate work has
been done. It, of course, means a great deal of mortising and routing,
but, where power machines are available, does not consume a great
amount of time. A chest built up as previously described with ¼” strips
glued on will give the same effect. A study of both drawings will make
the construction clear to the average student.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 7_
Fig. 27]
[Illustration: Fig. 28]
DESIGN NO. 7
Design No. 7, Figs. 27 and 28, is a rather odd design from the fact
that it contains a drawer. It is built in the usual manner, but has
two bottoms and an opening in the front for the drawer to slide into.
It should be built of cedar throughout, but a slight saving can be
effected if the lower bottom is of a cheaper wood or even a frame.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 8_
Fig. 29]
[Illustration: Fig. 30]
DESIGN NO. 8
This chest involves a little turning, but otherwise its construction is
simple. A ¾” piece is set into the upright end pieces of stock 1½” ×
1¾”, and another piece mortised in between them at the top. This latter
piece has had a handle turned in its center, and two round tenons on
its ends. These tenons are glued into holes bored in the uprights. Fig.
29 makes this construction clear. Aside from this, the construction is
very similar to Design No. 5.
DESIGN NO. 9
At first glance, Fig. 32 presents a chest of difficult design, yet a
careful understanding of its construction will show it to be quite
simple. The box is built up with plain butt ends, and four corner legs
are cut out according to the detail on Fig. 31. A right angle groove
is cut into the center of each leg, and this fits over the corners
of the chest. Glue and long screws from the inside of the box hold
them in place, as detailed in Fig. 33. The little brackets shown in
the perspective are doweled onto the legs after the latter have been
fastened in place. At the top and bottom strips of small moulding may
be cut by hand, or special mill orders will secure it from the dealers.
The panels are made of similar mouldings but these may be omitted if
desired. The top shows a raised panel. There are two methods used to
secure this effect. In the most simple, the ¾” top is built up and
another, thinner piece, glued over it. If the shop has a veneer press,
this method is very easy. Of course there is excessive weight when this
construction is used. The alternate method is to build up a frame with
either mortised or mitered ends, and set the ¾” top into this frame. It
can be secured with nails and glue from the under side.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 9_
_DETAIL OF LEG_ _ALTERNATE METHODS OF BUILDING UP TOP_
Fig. 31]
[Illustration: Fig. 32]
[Illustration: _DETAILS OF DESIGN NO. 9_
_SECTION OF MOULDING_
_METHOD OF FASTENING CORNERS TO BOX_
_BRACKET DOWELED TO CORNER_
Fig. 33]
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 10_
_DETAIL OF LEG_
_DETAIL OF MOULDING_
Fig. 34]
DESIGN NO. 10
[Illustration: Fig. 35]
Figs. 34 and 35 illustrate a chest of the William and Mary period
style. It is built up as the others have been with plain butt joints,
and over the corners, as with Design No. 9, the legs are fastened.
These are turned on a wood lathe, a quarter of the pieces being cut
out. They can be cut after the turning is finished, or before. The
latter plan is the more simple, as a frame must be constructed to hold
the legs while being sawed if they have been previously turned. If
the section is removed before turning it is a good plan to make the
two circular saw cuts through the middle of the piece without cutting
through to the ends. This will permit good centers to be obtained, and
it may prevent excessive chipping of the edges. The wood can be removed
when the ends are cut off on the lathe, or they may be carefully
chiseled out. The panel effect is secured with small mouldings mitered
at their corners. These may be omitted, if desired, without spoiling
the appearance of the chest.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 11._
Fig. 36]
[Illustration: Fig. 37]
DESIGN NO. 11
This chest is of very simple design, and would not be too difficult
a project for the average eighth-grade student. The ends are butted
against the front and back, and fastened with fine finishing nails.
Corner blocks are used on the inside, of course. The bottom is a
mitered frame which is nailed to the box. The handles are worked
out from small pieces of stock, 1½” thick. The top is built up with
a mitered frame, securely glued and nailed. Fig. 36 is the working
drawing, and Fig. 37 presents a photograph of the finished chest.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 12._
Fig. 38]
[Illustration: Fig. 39]
DESIGN NO. 12
Figs. 38 and 39 illustrate a chest very similar in construction to
those already described, but one differing in mode of trimming. In this
project Decalcomania transfers are successfully used, a description of
which will be found in Chapter VI.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 13._
Fig. 40]
[Illustration: Fig. 41]
DESIGN NO. 13
This very attractive chest is identical in construction with Design No.
12, but in this case the chest is embellished with two well designed
metal corners fastened with large-headed brass or copper nails. It will
be noted that no corners are used at the back; however, it would not
look out of place to fasten plates on the ends to give the appearance
of corners.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 14_
Fig. 42]
[Illustration: Fig. 43]
DESIGN NO. 14
The only unique parts of the chest illustrated in Figs. 42 and 43 are
the feet. After carefully forming them, they should be attached to
the chest bottom before it is fastened to the box, as in this way the
screws used to hold them can be evenly distributed.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 15_
Fig. 44]
[Illustration: Fig. 45]
DESIGN NO. 15
In Figs. 44 and 45 we have a number of departures from the chests
previously described. The most noticeable of these is the edge around
the top, which is built-up from strips one and three-fourths inches
square. The edges of these strips are carefully rounded and the outside
tapered in toward the bottom. Another point to note is that the feet
are not set in or out from the body of the chest, but are so fastened
that they give the appearance of flush sides and ends. These latter are
mitered together at the corners.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 16_
Fig. 46]
[Illustration: Fig. 47]
DESIGN NO. 16
This chest is almost identical in design with No. 13, excepting that
it has an overhanging top. When the box has been completed, a cove
moulding is glued and bradded flush with the upper edges, and the top
fitted over this moulding. As it is impossible to secure this moulding
already cut from red cedar, it will be necessary to put in a special
order for it at the mill or to work it out with a combination plane.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 17_
Fig. 48]
[Illustration: Fig. 49]
DESIGN NO. 17
There is nothing unusual about this chest, excepting possibly that it
is longer than the average. The top is built-up as described for Design
No. 15.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 18_
Fig. 50]
[Illustration: Fig. 51]
DESIGN NO. 18
This chest is almost identical with Design No. 4. It is built in the
same manner, but here we have Decalcomania decorations applied, and the
dimensions differ. When carefully constructed this is one of the most
attractive designs in the series.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 19_
Fig. 52]
[Illustration: Fig. 53]
DESIGN NO. 19
Figs. 52 and 53 present another chest with paneled ends, and the
sectional view in the working drawing shows the construction of them.
The rails are mortised into the post, and on the front panel, the wide
edge is relieved by attaching a small quarter-round. The end panel is
set into the rails at the center, hence it is not necessary to use the
moulding here.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 20._
Fig. 54]
[Illustration: Fig. 55]
DESIGN NO. 20
With a proper selection of transfer designs, this chest is one of the
most attractive that it is possible to build. Its construction is
simple and it has the wide curved pieces over the end grain that were
first shown in Design No. 2.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 21._
Fig. 56]
[Illustration: Fig. 57]
DESIGN NO. 21
Although larger than No. 20, this chest is practically the same with
the exception of its decoration. Decalcomanias are not used here, but
hinge plates and a well designed copper decoration on the front, add
the hit of relief so urgently desired.
[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 22._
Fig. 58]
[Illustration: Fig. 59]
DESIGN NO. 22
A paneled chest very similar to Design No. 6, is shown in Figs. 58 and
59. In this case there are but two panels on the front and top, and the
ends are fitted with corner plates.
[Illustration: _UNDER-BED CHEST_
Fig. 60]
[Illustration: Fig. 61]
UNDER-BED CHEST
As its title indicates, the chest design shown in Figs. 60 and 61 is
meant to roll under the bed. It is of very simple construction, and
most useful in small bedrooms and flats.
[Illustration: Fig. 62]
[Illustration: _CHEST OF DRAWERS_
Fig. 63]
CHEST OF DRAWERS
A chest of cedar drawers, Fig. 62, has so many advantages that
little need be said concerning it. Its additional room and separate
compartments commend it highly. Its construction is exactly like
the usual cabinet construction, all parts, wherever possible, being
mortised and tenoned together. The detail of the drawer construction,
Fig. 64, shows the fronts to extend past the sides, the edges being
rounded. This gives the chest a most pleasing appearance and renders it
dust-proof. If desired, the upper section, instead of having a large
drawer, can have a false drawer front, and a bottom put in. The top can
then be hinged and a high chest with two drawers will result. Or the
top drawer may be divided into two smaller drawers with good effect.
[Illustration: _DETAIL OF DRAWERS_
Fig. 64]
[Illustration: Fig. 65. Suggestive Designs from Commercial Sources]
SUGGESTIONS FOR DESIGN
Figs. 65 and 66 illustrate a few additional designs whose working
drawings are not given. They may offer suggestions worth while when the
builder is designing his own. The feet are especially suggestive.
[Illustration: Fig. 66. Suggestive Designs from Commercial Sources]