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Transcriber’s Note: During his time in Paris, the author didn’t achieve a
perfect command of the French language; many French words and place names
are incorrectly spelt and/or accented. These errors have been preserved.
[Illustration: H. E. Noyes, D.D.]
SEVENTEEN YEARS
IN PARIS:
A CHAPLAIN’S STORY.
BY
H. E. NOYES, D.D.
_(Late Hon. Chaplain to His Majesty’s Embassy,
and Incumbent of the Embassy Church,
Rue d’Aguesseau, Paris)._
BAINES AND SCARSBROOK,
PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS,
75 FAIRFAX ROAD, SWISS COTTAGE, LONDON, N.W.
1910.
DEDICATED TO THE BRITISH AND AMERICAN COLONIES IN PARIS, WITH WHOM I
SPENT THESE HAPPY YEARS, 1891-1907.
PREFACE.
In sending forth this brief account of my long chaplaincy in Paris, I
desire to say that I do so at the request of many friends, who were kind
enough to express their interest. It is not intended to be an account of
life generally in Paris, or a description of the beauties and treasures
of the City. There are many books which do this better than I could
hope to do, for the life of a chaplain in Paris is a very strenuous
one—every day bringing its work, and often much unexpected work, that it
was difficult to give much time to sight-seeing. My predecessor, Rev. T.
Howard Gill, said to me when I accepted the position, “Do not stay more
than seven years—it is enough for any man.” I stayed nearly seventeen. I
have not attempted either to give any full account here of the spiritual
side of my work—I would only say that I have every reason to thank God
that I went, both for the work He enabled me to do and the experience
that I have gained. There is an erroneous impression in some minds about
Continental work, viz., that it unfits a man for Parochial work at home.
I heard this expressed upon my appointment to my present sphere. The
fact, however, is very different. The work is so varied, so constant, and
often so unexpected, that one gains as much experience in six months in
a city like Paris as British Chaplain as one would gain in a much longer
time at home.
It may be true that in small chaplaincies in lonely places, with but few
English people in residence, men get out of touch with Church life and
work in England, but it is not the same in the permanent chaplaincies in
thickly populated places.
In Paris we had our organisations much as at home. Daily Services, Sunday
Schools, Mothers’ Meetings, Visitors, etc., and although the numbers
attending (owing to distance) were not so great as at home, the work was
much the same.
I have given several hints which I trust may be useful to parents
intending to send their children abroad for education, and also to those
who may be purposing to reside in Paris.
As we are going to press the notice appears in the papers of the death of
Sir Edmund Monson, formerly Ambassador in Paris. The country loses in him
a distinguished and faithful servant, and all who knew him will regret a
kind and generous friend.
H. E. NOYES, D.D.
St. Mary’s Vicarage,
Kilburn, N.W.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
ROYAL AND OTHER VISITS 1
CHAPTER II.
THE BRITISH EMBASSY 25
CHAPTER III.
MEMORABLE SERVICES 48
CHAPTER IV.
THE ENGLISHMAN ABROAD 66
CHAPTER V.
EDUCATION IN FRANCE 74
CHAPTER VI.
DIFFICULTIES OF ENGLISH PEOPLE ABROAD 79
CHAPTER VII.
BRITISH CHARITIES IN PARIS 94
CHAPTER VIII.
BRITISH JOURNALISTS IN PARIS 105
CHAPTER IX.
VARIA 112
CHAPTER X.
PRESENT CONDITIONS OF RELIGIOUS LIFE ON
THE CONTINENT 122
CHAPTER XI.
THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND ON THE CONTINENT 135
CHAPTER XII.
AMERICANS IN PARIS 139
CHAPTER XIII.
L’ENVOI 144
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
REV. H. E. NOYES, D.D. _Frontispiece_
RUE DE RIVOLI _To face page_ 2
HIS MAJESTY ENTERING THE CHURCH, FOLLOWED BY
SIR E. MONSON ” 6
HIS MAJESTY LEAVING THE EMBASSY CHURCH ” 14
SIR WALTER VAUGHAN-MORGAN, LORD MAYOR OF LONDON,
1905-1906 ” 22
MR. WRIGHT ” 23
ENTRANCE TO BRITISH EMBASSY ” 24
THE EARL OF LYTTON ” 26
THE COUNTESS OF LYTTON ” 28
THE MARQUIS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA ” 30
THE MARCHIONESS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA ” 32
TRAINBEARERS AT THE LADY PLUNKET’S WEDDING ” 34
COURT YARD, BRITISH EMBASSY ” 42
SIR HENRY AUSTIN LEE ” 46
BRITISH EMBASSY CHURCH, FROM THE RUE D’AGUESSEAU ” 48
BRITISH EMBASSY CHURCH (INTERIOR) ” 54
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE ” 66
A. PERCY INGLIS (BRITISH CONSUL-GENERAL) ” 84
SIR JOHN PILTER ” 94
HERTFORD BRITISH HOSPITAL ” 98
THE ELYSÉE, FROM THE FAUBOURG ST. HONORÉ ” 112
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE ” 118
THE HISTORIC FOUNTAIN, PLACE DE LA CONCORDE ” 118
_Photos of City by Leblanc, Paris._
SEVENTEEN YEARS IN PARIS.
BY H. E. NOYES, D.D.
_Late Honorary Chaplain to His Majesty’s Embassy._
CHAPTER I.
ROYAL AND OTHER VISITS.
The Daily Press has naturally recorded the visits of Royalty, Members of
Parliament, the Lord Mayor of London, etc., to Paris during the period
of which I write, but as in each case there were services in the Embassy
Church, there are certain facts from the chaplain’s point of view which
will, I hope, be of interest to my readers. A clerical friend once said
to me, “Everybody who is anybody has been to your Church in Paris.” It
certainly was a fact that during my chaplaincy many distinguished people
attended the ordinary Divine Service besides the crowds at special times
when Royalty was present. I may mention the late Duke of Devonshire, the
Right Hon. W. E. and Mrs. Gladstone—who often came twice on the Sunday
when visiting Paris—H.R.H. the late Duke of Cambridge, who was many times
present. On one occasion the Duke arrived in Paris from a long journey
early on Sunday morning, but he was in the Embassy gallery at the 11
o’clock service. Upon his late visits—and he was in Paris not long before
the end—he was unable to face the stairs to the gallery, and sat below
with the congregation. In the early days of my chaplaincy, the late
Sir Condie Stephen was an attaché at the Embassy, and a most regular
attendant at both morning and evening services. The late Archbishop
of Canterbury was once at service in my time, and sent me a most kind
message. Bishops, Home, Colonial, and American, were occasionally seen,
and many clergy. I noticed on two or three occasions Mr. Pierpoint Morgan
among the worshippers. On one occasion four English dukes were present
at morning service. The late Sir G. Stokes, Sir W. Freemantle, Lord
Rathmore, and the other members of the Suez Canal Board were regular in
attendance month by month, the former a devout worshipper and a kind,
genial friend.
Great interest was naturally excited in the English Colony when we had
Royal visitors. Her late Majesty was not in Paris during my Chaplaincy,
although she was several times in the South of France, being usually
met at some convenient station by the President of the French Republic.
Whatever may have been the feeling of the French people towards the
English before the “Entente Cordiale,” they always had the highest
respect and admiration for our beloved Queen, and I never heard that she
met with the least annoyance from “the most polite nation in the world.”
[Illustration: RUE DE RIVOLI.]
Before coming to the special subject of this chapter, I should like to
say a few words about the English Church in the Rue d’Aguesseau, which
has always been known as, and is “ipso facto,” the Embassy Church.
In former days the English services were held in the ballroom at the
Embassy itself, and there was a resident chaplain. I have heard that
there was sometimes rather a “rush” after a Saturday night’s ball to get
the room ready for divine service on Sunday. This “Chapel” was also at
that time somewhat of a Gretna Green, where at twenty-four hours’ notice
young couples who had difficulties at home could be united according
to English law by a resident chaplain. My friend, Dr. Morgan, of the
American Church, kindly sent me a volume of sermons he had picked up on
a bookstall, bearing the title “Sermons preached at the Chapel of the
British Embassy, and at the Protestant Church of the Oratoire in Paris,
by the late Rev. E. Forster, M.A., Chaplain to the British Embassy.” This
was in the days when Lord Stuart de Rothesay was Ambassador to the court
of France, and the volume bears the date 1828. I believe Lord Stuart de
Rothesay was twice Ambassador in Paris—an unusual circumstance. Services
are no longer held in the Embassy. The English Colony in Paris having
largely increased, it became necessary to provide a suitable building as
a church, and at the period when the late Lord Cowley was Ambassador, and
largely through his instrumentality, the present Church was purchased,
and has from that time to the present been the Embassy Church, where
all services of a public and diplomatic character have since been held.
Here is a French description of the building, which, while not exactly
ecclesiastical, is yet loved and valued by the English Colony.
“L’Èglise Anglicane est située à moins de 100 mètres de la porte de
l’Ambassade. C’est un petit monument de style Gothique, aux fenètres
ogivales, aux frùes colonnes fleuronnées. A l’intérieur, la chapelle est
meublée de deux rangées de bancs, placées face à l’autel. Devant celui-ci
se trouve l’aigle de bois doré dont les ailes éployées portent les Livres
Saints; à gauche les orgues: à droite, la chaire: une simple tribune de
pierre, de forme hexagonale légèrement surélevée. Un balcon court sur les
deux côtes de la chapelle, dont le fond est occupé par une tribune.”
The church is in a much better condition than formerly. The congregation
during my chaplaincy put a new roof upon it, and decorated it throughout,
and constructed a handsome Mortuary Chapel underneath—a sad necessity
for the English and American colonies in Paris. I conducted some
remarkable services during my time in Paris, which I describe in another
chapter—scenes which will not soon be forgotten by those who witnessed
them. I was glad to leave behind some £7,000 which had been subscribed
towards a Church House, a much-needed establishment, as there is no room
for Church purposes or residence for the chaplain. My successor, the
Right Rev. Bishop Ormsby, will, I hope, reap the benefit of this effort.
His Gracious Majesty King Edward VII. was several times in Paris during
the earlier years of my chaplaincy, as Prince of Wales, but his first
visit to the French Republic as King and Emperor was in May, 1903. The
visit was official and unique. Those of us who had lived in Paris during
the Boer war—when, to say the least, the English were not popular,
and had so frequently heard “Vivent les Boers” as we passed along the
streets, and even had newspapers flaunted before us which recorded
reverses to our arms—were very anxious that the visit should pass off
quietly. The English colony was much concerned, and so were the French
police. I was advised by the latter to admit to the Church only by
ticket, and to take the names and addresses of each applicant for them
who might be unknown to me. The following was the text of the ticket I
issued: “English Church, Rue d’Aguesseau. Divine Service 11 a.m. It is
requested that all seat-holders will be in their places at 10 o’clock.
After 10.30 all unoccupied seats will be filled.” The tickets were all
numbered and signed with a special stamp marked “Basileus.” The issuing
of these tickets gave us considerable work, as we only had 1,000, and
some 1,500 to 2,000 people applied for them—many by letter. Nearly the
whole of two days was occupied in the distribution.
The “Entente Cordiale” is now happily a “fait accompli”; but at the time
of His Majesty’s first official visit there was no thought of it in the
public mind, though we know now it was the gracious intention of our
peace-loving King that it should come about. I give an excerpt from the
“Patrie,” signed by M. L. Millevoye, which at this time gave us some
concern, for the “Patrie,” while not a high-class paper, is one that is
largely read by the man in the street:
“Parisiens! Le Roi des Anglais n’est pas votre hôte: ce n’est pas vous
qui l’avez invité. Cet étranger, cet ennemi vous impose sa visite.…
Parisiens, ce roi vous saluera, vous ne le saluerez pas.
“Mais des cris bien français, esclusivement français, peuvent sortir,
sans provocations, de vos poitrines. Crier ‘Vive Marchand!’ c’est
condamner Fachoda, c’est marquer la flètrissure d’une des plus
hyprocrites d’une des plus odieuses brutalités diplomatiques que la
France aie subies, Crier Vivent les Boers.… Crier Vive la Russie.… Votre
silence même, s’il est général, absolu, aura sa grandeur. Devant vos
fronts couverts, devant vos regards implacables, ce roi comprendra qu’on
l’atrompé en lui parlant de votre soumission, &c., &c., &c.”
It seemed, however, as if the very presence of His Majesty in Paris
at once dissipated any cloud that might have appeared in the sky. The
French are remarkable for their readiness to swing round to an opposite
opinion when they find reason for so doing. This was very striking in
the Dreyfus affair, and, more recently, in the case of M. E. Zola, who,
after having been condemned to imprisonment and a heavy fine for his
defence of Dreyfus, received the “post mortem” honour of being removed
from the cemetery of Montmatre to the Panthéon, that resting place of the
illustrious French dead.
[Illustration: HIS MAJESTY ENTERING THE CHURCH, FOLLOWED BY SIR E.
MONSON.]
The visit of His Majesty to Paris extended from May 1st to 4th, and
almost every hour was occupied with the usual official visits, lunches,
dinners, and receptions. The English colony looked forward especially to
the Sunday when they expected to see and worship with the King in their
own Church. There was some anxiety as to whether His Majesty would sit
in the Embassy gallery, or in the body of the Church, as in the former
case he would hardly be seen by the congregation. I reported to our
Ambassador, Sir E. Monson, the great desire that the King would sit with
the congregation, and late on Saturday evening I received a message that
he had kindly consented to do so. This gracious act gave much pleasure
to the colony. There were many young people who had never seen their King
before, and I fear his presence was rather distracting to their worship
on this occasion.
The police were considerably scared when it was announced that
His Majesty would not drive to the Church, but intended to walk.
Although only a few yards it was felt to be more or less a danger;
but every precaution being taken, all passed off safely. As the
congregation was assembling, I was sent for to the door to interview a
distinguished-looking man who desired to enter the Church, but had no
ticket. I found, however, upon careful enquiry, that he was a detective
from Scotland Yard, and required to examine the place where the King was
to sit.
This quiet Sunday service, with the King-Emperor attending as an ordinary
worshipper, very much impressed the French people. I will quote what was
said by the “Figaro” and the “Daily Telegraph” at the time; the former
giving the general French feeling much more accurately than the “Patrie,”
although even the latter paper soon changed its tone.
The “Figaro” thus describes the service:—
“Les Parisiens sceptiques et volontiers gouailleurs, ont été fortement
impressionnés par la très simple cérémonie d’hier matin, la plus grande
peut-être de ces trois jours de fête. De la rue Royale à l’avenue de
Marigny dix mille curieux descendent tout endimanchés des faubourgs, se
massent aux abords de l’Ambassade d’Angleterre, pour voir comment le
roi de la Grande-Bretagne et d’Irlande et des possessions britanniques
d’outre-mer, défenseur de la foi, empereur des Indes va faire-visite
à Dieu. C’est à pied que S. M. Edouard VII., en tenue de ville, se
rend à l’Eglise. Et quand il le voit passer ainsi, tout ce peuple saisi
d’émotion, chapeau bas, s’incline, dans un silence solennel. La petite
Eglise gothique de la rue d’Aguesseau regorge de monde. On a lancé
neuf cent trente invitations. La nef, les galeries, les bas-cotés, les
tribunes, tout est bondé.
“Les deux premières travées de banquettes sont réservées; et devant
elles, à gauche du chœur un fauteuil recouvert de velours rouge, avec un
prie-dieu sans appui, et un pupitre sur lequel sont deposés une Bible,
et un livre de psaumes, marque la place du Roi.… Le Pasteur et ses
assistants ont la soutane et le surplis garni de bandes de satin noir
et rouge. Les enfants de chœur assis près de la chaire, ont seulement
la soutane noir et le surplis. Sur un signe du secrétaire qui guettait
à la porte l’arrivée du Roi, tout le clergé, le Rev. Dr. Noyes en tête,
se porte au-devant de sa Majesté et l’attend sur le seuil. Edouard
VII. et le Pasteur se saluent en même temps. Le Clergé remonte vers le
chœur, précédent le Souverain, que suivent les membres de l’Ambassade
d’Angleterre et tous les attachés militaires. Et des que S. M. Edouard
VII. a pris place devant son fauteuil—et ouvert son livre de psaumes,
l’office divin commence. Les fidéles, dont un instant très court de
curiosité n’a pu troubler le recueillement, entument en anglais le Te
Deum. Puis les hymnes, les versets de la Bible, les psaumes se succèdent
chantés par toute l’assistance. Les fidèles s’agenouillent, et le Roi
s’agenouille comme eux; et sa voix se mêle avec leurs voix. Il n’y a
plus un souverain et des sujets, ‘Il n’y a qu’une famille dont tous les
membres s’addressent, ensemble au Père, ‘Notre Père qui êtes aux cieux.’
C’est la prière que nous ne savons plus. Enfin les chants ayant cessé
le Rev. Dr. Noyes se lêve et prononce le sermon dominical. Pendant un
quart d’heure environ, il développe la thèse de la Divinite du Christ, et
l’office termine, selon l’usage, par un dernier cantique, sans qu’aucune
allusion, ainsi qu’il en avait exprimé lùi-même le désir, aie été faite à
la presence du Roi.”
I have given the above in full as it is an interesting French view of an
English church service.
“The Daily Telegraph” recorded this event of the day as follows:
“At the morning service in the English Church, Rue d’Aguesseau, the
King was attended by his suite, and accompanied by Sir E. Monson and
the staff of the Embassy. This sacred edifice is a building of great
interest to English residents in Paris. The Rev. H. E. Noyes, D.D., has
been Chaplain to the Embassy since 1891, and during that incumbency has
known three eminent representatives of the Empire, Lord Lytton, the
Marquis of Dufferin, and Sir Edmund Monson. Our compatriots in the French
capital do not forget their Church. It is surely a matter of pleasure
to know that at the last Easter celebrations there were no fewer than
930 communicants. To-day the Church was all too small. Though admission
was necessarily by ticket, a crowd besieged the doors more than an hour
before the beginning of the service. Notre Dame or the Madeleine would
have been insufficient for the congregation anxious to be present.
Indeed, one feels regret for the hundreds who failed to obtain a coveted
ticket of admission. Practically small room was left after seats had been
found for the regular congregation, among whom I was pleased to note a
large number of English young ladies attending Parisian schools. Many
a year hence it will be a pleasant memory for those young persons who
participated in this historic service. ‘What a noble national possession
is England’s “sublime liturgy,”’ to quote George Borrow’s description of
it.
“Who has not felt its impress in a foreign land? I have heard it west of
the Rocky Mountains, under the Stars and Stripes, beneath the Southern
Cross, in the capital of China, on the Indian, the Atlantic, and the
Pacific Oceans, and in war time in South Africa, and the effect is
everywhere the same—a finer patriotic glow than almost anything else
can call up. It appeals to one as part of the heritage of the English
people, like their old Parish Church, or their very language itself. In
the Rue d’Aguesseau the prayers for the King and the Royal Family of
Great Britain were followed, as they always are here, by petitions for
the Presidents of the United States and of the French Republic. The ‘Te
Deum’ was finely rendered, as were the hymns ‘Children of the Heavenly
King’ and ‘The King of Love my shepherd is.’ Dr. Noyes founded a short,
eloquent discourse upon Matthew xiii. 54, 55.”
As the King left the Church the congregation sang the National Anthem
with a fervour and emotion, which was natural upon such an occasion.
After lunching at the Foreign Office with that eminent statesman, M.
Delcasse, His Majesty returned to the Embassy. Here a most interesting
ceremony was held. The King had promised to plant a red chestnut tree
in the Embassy garden, and the children of the British schools, to the
number of fifty, and the inmates of the Victoria Home (an institution
for aged British women who have lived in France for thirty years) were
invited to be present. It was a memorable occasion. The King handled the
spade as one accustomed to it, and the tree thus planted has flourished
remarkably well ever since. It bears a plate stating the date, etc.,
and will, no doubt, be an object of interest in the beautiful garden of
the Embassy for many years to come. The King has a wonderful memory for
old friends. I heard him on this occasion asking kindly after the Hon.
Alan Herbert, M.D., whom he had known in Paris many years ago. Another
interesting incident took place on this afternoon. Among those invited to
the Embassy garden was an old soldier, George Colman, nearly ninety years
of age, who had been dispatch writer to Lord Raglan in the Crimean War.
He was presented to the King, who had a long chat with him, and asked
him “Where are your medals?” Colman replied, “Your Majesty, they were
stolen from me at the time of the Paris Commune.” “Well,” said the King,
“we must see to that.” Colman was not forgotten, and not long after the
medals were received at the Embassy. He brought them to shew to me in
great delight.
In the evening a large official dinner was given at the British Embassy,
which was attended by the President and Madame Loubet, members of the
French Government, and many other distinguished guests. Three French
artists had the honour of being invited, MM. Carolus-Duran, Detaille,
and Bonnat. The City was brilliantly illuminated, and presented all the
characteristics of a National fête.
His Majesty left Paris for Cherbourg the next morning, President Loubet
accompanying him to the Gare des Invalids. There was a thankful sigh of
relief from the many loyal hearts in Paris that all had passed off so
well, and that our beloved Monarch was safe. It had been an anxious time,
for the happy change to more friendly relations between the two countries
had then only just commenced.
The next visit of His Majesty was in May, 1905, just two years after his
first official visit. There had been a change at the Embassy. Much to
the regret of all who knew him, Sir Edmund Monson had retired, having
reached the age limit, and had been succeeded by Sir Francis Bertie, the
present Ambassador. There was, moreover, a great change in the attitude
of the people, and the “Entente Cordiale” was on the lips of all. The
King’s previous visit, and the return visit of M. Loubet to London,
resulted in the settling of several outstanding disputes which had long
been an anxiety to diplomatists. There was much less ceremonial upon this
visit, and the King, instead of going to the Embassy, took his old suite
of rooms at the Hotel Bristol in the Place Vendome, where he had often
stayed as Prince of Wales. His Majesty came to Paris via Marseilles,
where he had a very hearty reception, and arriving at the Gare de Lyon
was met by Sir Francis Bertie and the staff of the Embassy, and that
all-important functionary, the Prefect of the Police. A good number of
people gathered in the Place Vendome in the hope of seeing the King, but
the weather was showery, and he drove in a closed carriage, and they
were disappointed. The Hotel Bristol in the Place Vendome—formerly a
monastery—is managed by an Englishman, Mr. Morlock, who is well known
to many crowned heads. The Tsar of Russia stayed there before his
accession to the throne; the late King and Queen of Portugal, and many
others. Mr. Morlock is a most genial host, and although he has been so
long in France is proud of his nationality, and always ready to join in
any movement for the good of the British colony. I had been informed
that His Majesty would attend Divine Service on the Sunday morning, and
took the precaution to admit only by ticket, to prevent over-crowding.
It was well I did so, for a great crowd assembled outside the Church,
and would have prevented the regular worshippers from entering. Owing to
this arrangement the Church was filled before the hour of service, and
there was no confusion. It was Eastertide, and the hymns “Jesus lives! no
longer now—Can thy terrors, death, appal us” and “Hosanna to the living
Lord” were sung with great fervour. I had requested the congregation to
remain in their seats during the singing of the National Anthem at the
close of the service—the intention being that His Majesty and the staff
of the Embassy would then leave and thus prevent crowding at the door.
However, the King stayed until the end, and, I was told, joined heartily
in the anthem. We always omitted the second verse having the words
“Confound their politics,” as being guests in a foreign land.
Upon this occasion His Majesty sat in the Embassy gallery with Sir
Francis Bertie and the staff. An amusing incident happened as the King
left the Church. A loud crash was heard and caused some excitement. It
came from a photographer who had perched himself upon a high ladder with
a large camera, hoping for a snapshot. He fell owing to the breaking
of the ladder just as the King came out of the porch. He was very
disappointed at losing the photograph.
Upon the return to the hotel the King received Admiral Fournier, who had
presided over the enquiry relating to the North Sea firing incident, and
conferred upon him the insignia of a Knight Grand Cross of the Victorian
Order.
The reception of His Majesty on the part of the people was in marked
contrast to that of his former visit. There were very few cries in the
streets on that occasion, but now one often heard “Vive le Roi” and “Vive
l’Angleterre” shouted with a hearty good will. The “Entente Cordiale” was
an established fact.
[Illustration: HIS MAJESTY LEAVING THE EMBASSY CHURCH.]
The third visit of the King during my chaplaincy took place in March,
1906, when he travelled as the Duke of Lancaster, arriving in Paris from
Cherbourg on the Saturday evening. The Royal train was brought round to
the Gare des Invalides, where the King was met by Sir Francis Bertie and
the staff of the Embassy, M. Mollard representing the President of the
Republic, and M. Lepine, Prefect of Police. As His Majesty ascended the
stairs a flashlight photograph of the scene was taken by an unauthorised
person—much to the annoyance of all present, as the explosion caused a
temporary alarm. Next morning the King attended the Embassy Church, and
sat in the Royal gallery with Sir Francis and Lady Feodorowna Bertie.
Little change was made in the service, except that I preached a short
sermon in order to keep within the limited time. My text was “But the
Word of God is not bound,” and the collection was for the British and
Foreign Bible Society. H.R.H. Princess Henry of Battenberg and the
Princess Ena (now Queen of Spain) joined the King at the Embassy for
lunch. His Majesty drove to and from the church in a closed carriage,
and although there was a great crowd, his desire to be “incognito” was
respected. It was upon this occasion that His Majesty handed to M.
Fallières the missing leaves from the second volume of “The History of
the antiquities of the Jews” for the Bibliothéque Nationale. M. Loubet,
former President of the Republic, was one of the many who called upon the
King, and it was characteristic of the kind feeling of His Majesty that
he returned the call at the private apartment of M. Loubet—an act that
was much appreciated by the people generally. I often heard French people
speak of it. Upon this visit the Embassy in the Faubourg St. Honore was
turned into a Royal Palace, the King and his suite staying there. I was
told of the following incident which indicates the change of feeling on
the part of the French. After dinner at a fashionable restaurant (while
the King was in Paris) the band was called upon to play the English
National Anthem by a party of Frenchmen. Then some Englishmen present
called for the Marseillaise, which was received with the same honours and
enthusiasm.
By a curious chance there was a party of Germans present, and these stood
up and uncovered while both the National Anthems were being played.
Beyond the various social functions there was no other special incident,
and the short visit passed off very satisfactorily in every way.
I have told of the enthusiasm evoked by the first official visit of
His Majesty to Paris, and the two subsequent visits, but when it
was reported early in 1907 that the King was coming, accompanied by
the Queen, enthusiasm knew little bounds. Many of the English Colony
had never seen the Queen, and were on tiptoe of expectation. Their
Majesties arrived in Paris from London on Saturday evening, February
2nd, at the Gare du Nord, where they received an enthusiastic—though
non-official—welcome, for they were travelling as the Duke and Duchess of
Lancaster. The photographic fiend was again in evidence, and Her Majesty
gave a perceptible start as the magnesium light flashed, although she
must be accustomed to this annoyance. I was told that the crowd outside
the station was enormous, and the cries “Vive le Roi—Vive la Reine” were
very hearty, both there and along the route to the British Embassy, which
was to be the temporary home of their Majesties. Notwithstanding the
fatigues of the journey the King and Queen paid a visit to the Nouveau
Cirque in the evening, much to the delight of those present.
It appeared to me that the Parisians were the more pleased at the
“incognito,” as it was as if their Majesties came as friends, and not
merely as Royal visitors. The visit was thus less formal yet more
cordial; everyone felt that it was not political, but just friendly, and
Paris was delighted. The British sovereigns were going to spend a week of
pleasure, visiting and entertaining their friends, shopping and motoring.
The Rue de la Paix is always attractive, but it seemed to surpass itself
on this occasion.
I was naturally very busy preparing for the Sunday service. Tickets were
quite necessary, and the demand for them very great. We issued 1,000—our
utmost limit—and then came the pain of refusing the hundreds who also
desired to attend. I crave pardon for giving the report of the service,
written by my friend Mr. Ozane, the well-known and valued correspondent
of the “Daily Telegraph.”
He wrote: “I have never seen a larger crowd in and near the church in the
Rue d’Aguesseau than that which assembled there this morning. Admission
to the sacred edifice was by cards, of which a liberal distribution was
made, but any number of persons who must have known that the chance of
finding a place was hopeless, had put in an appearance nevertheless.
The English colony had mustered in full force, and there was a big
gathering of French friends as well. The footpaths close to the Embassy
and along the street leading to the Church were crammed with well-dressed
people—the fair sex being strongly represented; and there they stood
in the brilliant sunshine, but bitterly cold wind, waiting for their
Majesties to pass. The King and Queen drove to and from the Church in one
of the Ambassador’s carriages, and with Sir Francis Bertie and members
of their suite were conducted to the Embassy Gallery. By the time they
entered the Church was thronged to repletion, all the arrangements made
for the accommodation of the congregation being, however, excellent. The
prayers were read by the curate, Rev. W. Harrison, the lessons being read
and the sermon preached by the Rev. H. E. Noyes, D.D., who is chaplain
to the Embassy. Doctor Noyes is well known as a very eloquent preacher,
and taking for his text the 14th verse of the 8th chapter of St. Luke,
part of the Gospel for the day, delivered an excellent discourse on
the parable of the sower. The choir, under the direction of Mr. Percy
Vincent, did itself full justice, and the congregation joined heartily
in the service, as it invariably does at this Church, which has only
one defect, viz., that it is not large enough to accommodate all the
worshippers who would attend it, especially at a season when so many
English visitors are passing through Paris. When the service was over it
was scarcely possible to make one’s way along the street, so dense was
the crowd.”
In the afternoon the King paid a visit to President Fallières at the
Elysée, which was returned later, Madame Fallières accompanying the
President to make the acquaintance of the Queen. In the evening their
Majesties dined with their old friends Mr. and Mrs. Standish.
The following is an extract, giving the French impression of the Church
service:
“L’Eglise était comble, bien qu’on n’y eût èté admís que sur la
présentation de cartes imprimées, spécialement. L’Entrée des souverains
y fut saluée par de nouveaux vivats. Ils prirent place dans la tribune
de l’ambassade, a gauche de la nef. Puis le service commença. C’était
l’office ordinaire du dimanche et la seule modification qu’on y apporta
fut l’exécution du ‘God save the King’—joué par les orgues à la fin
de la cérémonie, tandis que tous les assistants chantaient en chœur.
Le Reverend H. E. Noyes officie. Edouard VII. suit avec une attention
soutenue l’office, ainsi d’ailleurs que la reine Alexandra.”
All through the week the liveliest interest was taken in the movements
of the King and Queen, and there were some amusing incidents. There was
great curiosity to see the King’s automobile, the people apparently
having forgotten that he had purchased it in Paris on a previous visit.
What they expected to see I don’t know—perhaps some vehicle modelled
after the old Royal stage coaches? But the reality was a fine Mercédés
car, much the same in outward appearance as others in Paris, but with
luxurious interior fittings. It was the rule in France at this time (as
since) to have a conspicuous number painted on each car, and this mark
the Royal Mercédés had not. It was consequently very soon stopped by a
policeman in the Champs Elysées, and a crowd gathered. When, however, it
was found to have a Royal owner, it was allowed to pass on. But this was
not the end of the matter. Next day it was stopped by a more “exigeant”
police officer, who, having failed to get satisfactory answers from the
English chauffeur, obliged him to go to the police station. The crowd
was highly amused as the news soon spread “C’est l’automobile du Roi,”
although the stern police officer continued to ignore it. I believe there
was another difficulty the following day. However, so soon as His Majesty
heard of his chauffeur’s adventures, he ordered a number to be at once
painted on the car, to conform with the French law.
Her Majesty the Queen received many begging and other letters during her
short stay, and I was struck by the careful enquiries she caused to be
made about each case. I was glad to be able to give, through one of the
attachés, information as to several of the applicants who were well known
to me.
The consideration of the Parisians for the “incognito” of their Majesties
was very marked. It was reported that both the King and Queen expressed
their satisfaction at this, and that the former said “Nothing could be
nicer or more discreet. The Parisians are the most courteous people in
the world.” The same attitude was maintained all through the visit,
enabling their Majesties to go about in freedom and comfort, as they
constantly did, to the great delight of both nationalities in the gay
city.
After the “Entente Cordiale” became an accomplished fact, we had several
visits of public bodies to Paris, and I always endeavoured to arrange
a special service for them as part of the programme of the visit. In
November, 1903, we had a British Parliamentary visit. I had corresponded
with the secretary beforehand, and arranged for a special service at
4 p.m. on the Sunday afternoon (29th). We had no room for them at the
ordinary morning service. I also consulted Sir E. and Lady Monson, who
kindly arranged their reception for 5 o’clock, so that the Members of
Parliament, their wives, and daughters could go across to the Embassy at
the close of the service. About 300 attended, and, I had reason to know,
fully appreciated the arrangement that had been made for them. I preached
upon the Great Charter of our Religious Liberty from the text “Render
unto Cæsar the things that are Cæsar’s, and to God the things that are
God’s.” The National Anthem was very heartily sung at the close. Sir E.
and Lady Monson received the guests with their usual kindness, and all
the magnificent rooms at the Embassy were thrown open to them. All the
members of the British party were present, together with French Senators
and Deputies, and the leading members of the British Colony in Paris.
This same year we had a visit from the present Bishop of London. I
believe his first visit as Bishop. I had written to him to say that I
had a number of candidates for confirmation (about 50), but that our own
Bishop Wilkinson, coadjutor for London, could not come, and could he ask
some other Bishop who might be in London to take the office for us. He
wrote: “My dear Noyes, I will come myself.” The British Colony will not
soon forget his visit. After the Confirmation, at which he gave a most
helpful address, although curiously enough founded upon a misquotation,
we had a reception at my house, which was attended by the leading members
of the Colony, and those confirmed, with their parents and friends. The
Bishop (as always) won the hearts of all by his kindness and geniality.
I acted as His Lordship’s chaplain while he was in Paris, and he kindly
fell in with all the arrangements I had made, which were numerous.
In February, 1906, we had a visit from the London County Council, most of
whom attended the ordinary service in the Embassy Church on February 4th.
On Monday (5th), there was a grand reception at the Hotel de Ville. This
magnificent structure, erected on the site of the old historic building,
is well worth a visit. The decorations and pictures are among the most
beautiful in Paris, and when it is lit up and specially decorated with
flags, etc., as it was on this occasion, presents a striking scene. The
same week the “Minister of the Interior,” an office corresponding to
that of our Home Secretary, gave a grand reception in his superb mansion
in the Place Beauveau. All the London County Council were invited,
together with the leading members of the British Colony. The reception
was followed by a concert, in which some of the best known artists in
Paris took part. The programme was itself a thing of beauty, bearing in
the front a striking picture drawn for the occasion by Lévy, of a sailor
looking back over a tempestuous sea at a lighthouse on a pier.
[Illustration: SIR WALTER VAUGHAN-MORGAN, LORD MAYOR OF LONDON
1905-1906.]
[Illustration: MR. WRIGHT.]
This was a year of visits. In October, the Right Hon. Sir Walter
Vaughan-Morgan, Lord Mayor of London, accompanied by many of the City
Fathers, came officially to Paris. There was considerable excitement
among the citizens of Paris about this visit, for among other things it
was rumoured that the Lord Mayor would bring his state carriage, and
also Mr. Wright, his well-known coachman, whose fame had preceded him.
An enormous crowd gathered to welcome the party, many leaving off work
early in order to see them pass, and the streets from Gare du Nord to the
Rue Scribe were literally packed with people. The cheers were frequent
and loud, and one often heard, “Vivent les Anglais,” and the less common
“Vive le lor Maire.” Had this cry ever been heard before in Paris? Mr.
Wright, the coachman, had reached Paris the day before, and was soon
recognized on the box of the Lord Mayor’s carriage. The crowd shouted,
“Vive Monsieur Wright,” and “Vive le cocher du lor Maire” with vehemence,
evidently delighted with his jolly appearance. I had corresponded with
Sir Joseph Savory with reference to a service in the Embassy Church on
the Sunday, and it was decided that a gallery (holding about 100) should
be placed at their disposal, although this caused the other parts of the
building to be very crowded. In front of the Embassy, which faces the
Rue d’Aguesseau, and down the street, police were stationed in force.
Had the King himself been coming there would hardly have been a stronger
detachment. The whole of the gallery in the Church was filled. The Lord
Mayor was invited to a seat in the Embassy gallery. I preached a special
sermon to a very attentive congregation upon the labour question. After
Divine Service the Lord Mayor and members of the party lunched at the
Embassy with Sir Francis and Lady Feodorowna Bertie. In the afternoon
the Lord Mayor, accompanied by Sir George Faudel Phillips, Sherriffs
Dunn and Crosby, Sir Joseph Savory, and Sir Vesey Strong, paid a visit
to the Girls’ Friendly Society. There is usually a large attendance of
girls on Sunday afternoon, but on this occasion the hall was crowded in
every part. In introducing the Lord Mayor, I explained the objects of
the Society, and told something of its good work in Paris. In reply Sir
W. Vaughan-Morgan said “He had not expected to find the members of the
Society so numerous in Paris. He did not know if he were breaking the
rules in paying them a visit, but as Dr. Noyes had brought him in, he
also hoped he would find some way of getting him out.” Sir George Faudel
Phillips also said some kind words to the ladies and members present.
The drives of the civic party in the City in the days that followed
were a great delight to the people crowding the streets. I was on the
Boulevards on one occasion when the carriages passed, and the remarks of
the people at the unusual dresses, and especially the head gear of some
of the party, were most amusing. I understand the principal carriage was
not brought as it was too large for the railway vans! The Lord Mayor and
Corporation very kindly gave me 100 guineas as a memento of their visit,
towards the proposed Church House in connection with the Embassy Church—a
much-needed institution—part of which will form a club for young British
men, and the whole be a centre for church work.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO BRITISH EMBASSY.]