At Pienza, after having seen the Museum with a custode whom I photoed as
being more like death, though in excellent health and spirits, than any
one I ever saw, I was taken to the leading college for young ladies, the
Conservatorio di S. Carlo, under the direction of Signora (or Signorina,
I do not know which) Cesira Carletti, to see the wonderful Viale of the
twelfth or thirteenth century given to Pienza by Pope Æneas Sylvius
Piccolomini (Pius II) and stolen a few years since, but recovered.
Signora Carletti was copying parts of it in needlework, nor can I think
that the original was ever better than the parts which she had already
done. The work would take weeks or even months to examine with any
fullness, and volumes to describe. It is as prodigal of labour, design
and colour as nature herself is. In fact it is one of those things that
nature has a right to do but not art. It fatigues one to look at it or
think upon it and, bathos though it be to say so, it won the first prize
at the Exhibitions of Ecclesiastical Art Work held a few years ago at
Rome and at Siena. It has taken Signora Carletti months to do even the
little she has done, but that little must be seen to be believed, for no
words can do justice to it.
Having seen the Viale, I was shown round the whole establishment, and can
imagine nothing better ordered. I was taken over the dormitories—very
nice and comfortable—and, finally, not without being much abashed, into
the room where the young ladies were engaged upon needlework. It
reminded me of nothing so much as of the Education of the Virgin Chapel
at Oropa. {282} I was taken to each young lady and did my best to acquit
myself properly in praising her beautiful work but, beautiful as the work
of one and all was, it could not compare with that of Signora Carletti.
I asked her if she could not get some of the young ladies to help her in
the less important parts of her work, but she said she preferred doing it
all herself. They all looked well and happy and as though they were well
cared for, as I am sure they are.
Then Signora Carletti took me to the top of the house to show me the
meteorological room of which she is superintendent, and which is in
connection with the main meteorological observatory at Rome. Again I
found everything in admirable order, and left the house not a little
pleased and impressed with everything I had seen. [1889.]