CHAPTER X

AT HAPHAZARD

In 1887, in pleasant June weather I left St. Louis with my family on

the capacious river-packet _Saint Paul_, for a trip up-stream to

the city for which the boat was named. The flood was at the full as we

ploughed on, stopping at landings on either side, the reaches between

presenting long perspectives of summer beauty. We paused in due course

at a little Iowa town, and among the passengers who took the boat here

were two men who excited our attention at the landing. One was a

tall handsome fellow in early manhood, well-dressed and mannered,

completely blind. The other was his companion, a rather dishevelled

figure with neglected beard and hair setting off a face that looked

out somewhat helplessly into a world strange to it, an attire of loose

white wool, plainly made by some tailor who knew nothing of recent

fashion-plates. A close-fitting cap of the same material surmounted

his head. The attire was whole and neat, but the air of the man was

slouchy and bespoke one who must have lately come from the outskirts

into the life of America. The young blindman at once aroused earnest

sympathy. Of the other some one remarked, "Plainly a globe-trotting

Englishman, who has lost his Baedeker and by chance got in here."

Presently the boat was on its way, and as I sat facing the changing

scene, I heard a shuffling, hesitating step behind, and a drawling

somewhat uncertain voice asked me about the country. I replied that it

was my first trip and I was ignorant. Turning full upon the querist,

no other than the globe-trotter, I said: "You are an Englishman I see.

I was in England last year. I have spent some time in London, and I

know other parts of your country." A conversation followed which soon

became to me interesting. My companion had education and intelligence,

and before the afternoon ended we were agreeably in touch. He handed

me his card on which was engraved the name, "Mr. William Grey." I told

him I was a Harvard man, a professor in Washington University, St.

Louis. He was of Exeter College, Oxford, and for some years had been a

professor in Codrington College, Barbadoes, in the West Indies, whence

he had lately come. To my natural surprise that he should be so far

astray, he said he had been visiting a fellow Exeter man, a clergyman

of the English Church, who was the rector of an Iowa parish. It

further developed that his young blind companion belonged to a family

in the parish, and that Mr. Grey had good-heartedly assumed the care

of him during an outing on the river.

A trip from St. Louis to St. Paul by river is longer now than a trip

across the Atlantic. I was nearly a week in my new companionship, and

acquaintance grew and deepened fast. The young blindman, whose manners

were agreeable, became a general favourite, and Mr. Grey and I found

we had much in common. I mentioned to him that my errand in England

the year before had been to find material for a life of Young Sir

Henry Vane, the statesman and martyr of the English Commonwealth, and

in his young days a governor of the province of Massachusetts Bay.

This touched in him a responsive chord. He was familiar with the

period and the character. He was a friend of Shorthouse whose novel,

_John Inglesant_ was a widely-read book of those days. He had

helped Shorthouse in his researches for the book, and knew well

the story of Charles I., and his friends and foes. He was himself

a staunch Churchman, but mentioned with some pleasure that his name

appeared among the Non-conformists. A sturdy noble of those days was

Lord Grey of Groby, who opposed the King to the last, standing at the

right hand of the redoubtable Colonel Pride at the famous "Pride's

Purge," pointing out to him the Presbyterians whom the Ironside was to

turn out of Parliament, in the thick of the crisis. To my inquiry as

to whether Lord Grey of Groby was an ancestor, he was reticent, merely

saying that the name was the same. I had begun to surmise that my new

friend was allied with the Greys who in so many periods of English

history have borne a famous part. Some years before, while sojourning

in a little town on the Ohio River, a stroll carried me to a coal-mine

in the neighbourhood. As I peered down two hundred feet into the dark

shaft, a bluff, peremptory voice called to me to look out for my head.

I drew back in time to escape the cage as it descended with a group

of miners from a higher plane to the lower deeps. I thanked my bluff

friend, who had saved my head from a bump. A pleasant acquaintance

followed which led to his taking me down into the mine, a thrilling

experience. He was an adventurous Englishman who had put money into a

far-away enterprise, and come with his wife and children to take care

of it. His wife was a lady well-born, a sister of Sir George Grey,

twice governor of New Zealand, and at the time High Commissioner and

governor of Cape Colony, one of the most interesting of the great

English nation-makers of the South Seas. I came to know the lady,

and naturally followed the career of her brother, who earned a noble

reputation. Later I corresponded with him, and received from him his

portrait and books. Referring to Sir George Grey in my talk with Mr.

William Grey, I found that he knew him well and not long before, in

a voyage of which he had made many into many seas, had visited New

Zealand, and been a guest of Sir George Grey at his island-home in

the harbour of Auckland. Was he related to Sir George? was my natural

query. Again there was reticence. The name was the same, but the Greys

were numerous.

The journey wore on. The resource of the steamer's company was to sit

on the upper deck, watch the swollen river with its waifs of uprooted

trees and the banks green with the summer, chatting ourselves

into intimacy. The young blindman made good and very good, and

his guardian, while keeping a lookout on his charge from under his

well-worn traveller's cap, which I now knew had sheltered its owner

in tropic hurricanes and icy Arctic blasts, discussed with me matters

various and widely related. Nearing our journey's end, we sat in the

moonlight, the Mississippi opening placidly before us between hazy

hills. We had grown to be chums, and next morning we were to part. It

was a time for confidences. "Well," said Mr. Grey, "I am going to

get a good look at America, then I mean to return home and go into

Parliament." I suggested there might be difficulties about that.

English elections were uncertain, and how could he be at all sure that

any constituency would want him. "Ah," said he, this time no longer

reticent. "I am going into the House of Lords." "Indeed," said I in

surprise, "and who are you really, Mr. William Grey?" At last he

was outspoken. He was heir to the earldom of Stamford, his uncle the

present earl, a man past eighty, childless, and in infirm health,

must soon lay down the title. He was preparing himself for the

responsibilities of the high position and believed it well to make a

study of America. His father, a younger son, had been a clergyman in

Canada, and he, though with an Oxford training, knew the world outside

of England better than the old home. His direct ancestor was Lord Grey

of Groby, whose father, an earl of Stamford, had been a Parliamentary

commander in the years of the Civil War, and in the century before

that, a flower of the house had been the Lady Jane Grey, who had

perished in her youth on the scaffold, a possible heir to the English

crown. So this _outré_ personage, good-heartedly helping the

blindman to an outing, and in a shy apologetic way getting into touch

with an environment strange to him, was a high-born nobleman fitting

himself for his dignities.

I had before invited Mr. Grey to visit me in St. Louis, for his

seeming helplessness appealed to me from the first. He had met some

hard rebuffs in his American contacts. I thought I might aid him in

making his way. Returning in the autumn to my home, I heard from Mr.

Grey that he was coming to be my guest, and in due time he arrived. I

missed him at the station, but he presently appeared at our door in an

express-waggon, sitting on the seat with the driver, in the midst of

his belongings. He spent a week with us in the first American home he

had known, and we found him an amiable and unobtrusive gentleman.

He was a vigorous walker and explored the city well. His listless,

seemingly inattentive eyes somehow scanned everything, and he judged

well what he witnessed. He was an accomplished scholar and had a quiet

humour. A little daughter half-playfully and half-wilfully, announced

her intention to follow her own pleasure in a certain case. "Milicent

is a Hedonist," said the guest, and the Oxford scholar brought

Aristippus and Epicurus into odd conjunction with a Mississippi Valley

breakfast-table. He laid aside his white woollen suit, but his attire

remained unconventional, not to say _outré_. Even the wrinkled

dress-suit in which he appeared at dinner, I think was the achievement

of a tailor in the island of Barbadoes. His opera-hat was a wonder. He

was, or was soon to be, a belted earl, but his belt only appeared on

his pajamas, raiment of which I heard then for the first time. It had

early appeared in our intercourse that the main interest of Mr. Grey

lay in humane and religious work. He also was a devoted member of the

Church of England. On Sunday morning we started early for the leading

Episcopal Church but on the way he inquired as to the place of worship

of the negro congregation of that faith. I confessed my ignorance

of it, but he had in some way ascertained it, and I presently found

myself following his lead down a rather squalid street where at last

we came to the humble temple. Instead of hearing the bishop, a famous

and eloquent man, he preferred to sit on a bare bench in the obscure

little meeting-house, where he fraternised cordially with the dusky

company we found there. He was more interested in our charities than

in our politics and business, and in his quiet way during the week

learned the story well. I introduced him to Southern friends who gave

him letters to persons in the South. Provided with these he bade us

good-bye at last, and went far and wide through what had been

the Confederacy. He visited Jefferson Davis and many soldiers and

politicians of note, getting at first-hand their point of view. I also

gave him letters to some eminent men in the East, which he presented,

meeting with a good reception. He made a wide and shrewd study of the

United States, and I am glad to think I helped him. When I met him

he was unfriended and without credentials, and his singularities

were exposing him to some inconvenient jostling in our rough world.

I opened some doors to him through which he pushed his way into much

that was best worth seeing in American life. An old friend, a radical

man of letters, wrote me afterwards that he enjoyed Mr. Grey, and he

thought Mr. Grey enjoyed him although he believed that if he had been

a pauper, a criminal, or even a bishop, Mr. Grey would have enjoyed

him much more.

He returned to England and did not forget me, writing from time to

time how his affairs progressed. Soon he entered into his own, the

earldom of Stamford, finding about the same time his countess in an

English vicarage. In the House of Lords he was not prominent, though

the papers occasionally mentioned brief addresses by him. His main

interest continued to be charitable work. He was a lay-preacher, and

worked much in the east end of London, throwing the weight of his

culture and high position into alleviating ignorance and poverty. He

sent me interesting literature relating to the efforts of well-placed

men and women to carry into slums and hovels sweetness and light.

In due time a daughter was born to him, whom he named Jane Grey; and

later a son, Lord Grey of Groby. I saw once in the London Graphic, or

perhaps in the Illustrated News, charming pictures of these children

with their interesting historic names. Though rigidly a Churchman he

was not narrow. Lord Stamford sent me a handsome picture of himself,

to which is affixed his signature as an earl and an elaborate seal. In

an accompanying note he wrote that the seal was a careful facsimile of

the one which an ancestor of his had affixed to the death-warrant of

Charles I. He seemed to take pride in the fact that his forbear had

borne a part in the ancient Non-conformist strivings. He came to

America more than once afterward, as a delegate to charitable and

peace Congresses. My dear friend Robert Treat Paine, President of the

Peace Society and eminent philanthropist of Boston, knew him well and

esteemed him highly--and he was the fellow of workers like him.

It is a picturesque moment in my life that I in this way came into

association with a nobleman of the bluest blood. To outward appearance

as I stumbled upon him so unexpectedly, he seemed effete. His odd

shuffle and limp whiskers were dundrearily suggestive of a personality

a bit mildewed. But I felt that what ineptitude there was, was only

superficial; good, strong manhood lay underneath. His death took place

some years since.

Burke's _Peerage_ states that the family was ennobled by Richard

Coeur de Lion, and has maintained itself in a high place for eight

centuries. Privilege is a bough of the social tree from which we

expect mere dead sea-fruit rather than a wholesome yield, but now and

then the product holds something better than ashes. As we trace this

stock through the ages, apples of Sodom, no doubt, will be found in

abundance, but now and then it flowers into heroic manhood and lovely

womanhood. My chance comrade of the _St. Paul_ was a refined,

high-purposed man, certainly a product of the worthier kind, and I am

glad to count among my friends, William Grey, Ninth Earl of Stamford.

* * * * *

As a student of German, anxious to gain fluency of expression, and to

train my ear to catch readily the popular idioms, I found that I must

fill out my writing and reading by contact with men. After roving the

streets of German cities, I packed a knapsack and set out upon the

country-roads. I was, as the Germans say, _gut zu Fuss_, a

stout walker, and I learned to employ for my longer expeditions

the _Bummel-Zug_, an institution I commend highly to all in my

situation. The _Bummel-Zug_ is simply a "way" freight-train, to

which in my time was attached a car for third-class passengers.

It stopped at every village, and the fare was very low. It was

convenient, therefore, for those too poor to be in a hurry, and for

travellers like me whose purpose could be better served by loitering

than by haste. The train proceeded leisurely, giving ample time for

deliberate survey of the land, and the frequent pauses of indefinite

length afforded opportunity for walks through the streets of remote

hamlets and even into the country about, where the peasants with

true Teuton _Gemüthlichkeit_ always welcomed a man who came from

America.

Thus on my legs and by _Bummel-Zug_ I wandered far, arriving one

pleasant day at the ancient city of Salzburg, close to the Bavarian

Alps. I was anxious to see something of the Tyrol, and had been told

that the _Königs-See_ offered the finest and most characteristic

scenery of that region. Salzburg was a suitable point of departure.

The sky darkened and it began to rain heavily. Berchtesgaden, in

the mountains, the nearest village to the Königs-See, was only to be

reached by _Eilwagen_, a modification of the _diligence_,

which forty years ago still held its place on the Alpine roads. I

stood at the door of the inn, observing the company who were to be

my fellow-passengers. There were two or three from the outside world,

like myself, a few mountaineers with suggestions of the Tyrol in their

garb, and one figure in a high degree picturesque, a Franciscan friar

in guise as mediaeval as possible. His coarse, brown robe wrapped him

from head to foot. A knotted cord bound his waist, the ends depending

toward the pavement and swinging with his rosary. His feet were shod

with sandals, and his head was bare, though an ample cowl was at hand

to shelter it. His head needed no tonsure for age had made him nearly

bald. His shaven face was kind and strong and he was in genial touch

with the by-standers, to whom no doubt such a figure was not novel.

Incongruously enough, the friar held over his head in the pouring rain

a modern umbrella, his only concession to the storm and to modernity.

Presently we climbed in for the journey, and I was a trifle taken

aback when the monk by chance followed me directly, and as we settled

into our seats was my close _vis-à-vis_. As we bumped along

the rough road our legs became dove-tailed together, I as well as

he wrapped in the coarse folds of his monkish robe, the rosary as

convenient to my hand as to his, and as the vehicle swayed our heads

dodged each other as we rocked back and forth. Thrown thus, as it were

into the embrace of the past, I made the most of it and got as far

as might be into the mediaeval. I found my friar charmingly

companionable. His Bavarian _patois_ was not easy to follow, nor

could he catch readily the speech I had been learning in the schools.

But we made shift and had much talk as we drove through the storm

into the highlands. He was a brother in the monastery at Salzburg,

but being out of health, was making his way to a hospice of his order

above the valley. He had heard of America, and knew there were houses

of his order in that strange land. He was doubtful of its location,

and possibly an American was a creature with whom he had never till

then been in touch. Under the scrutiny of his mild eyes I was being

studied as a queer outlandish specimen, as he certainly was to me. We

parted at last as good friends, his head now enveloped in the cowl,

his sandals pattering off in the dusk toward the little cell that

awaited him in the hospice, while I sought a place by the fire in the

inn of Berchtesgaden. I learned afterward that he was well known and

much venerated in Salzburg.

I came into the mountain-nook oddly companioned, and my exit thence

was equally so, though greatly in contrast. For a day or two I was

storm-bound, and felt the depression natural in a remote solitude,

wrapped in by rain and fog, with no society but an unintelligible

mountaineer or two. At last it cleared and the revulsion was

inspiring. I found myself in a little green vale hemmed in

by magnificent heights whose rocky summits were covered with

freshly-fallen snow. Close at hand rose the Watzmann, a soaring

pyramid whose summit was cleft into two sharp peaks inclined into some

semblance of a bishop's mitre. My recent association with the monk had

made vivid the thought of the old church, and it seemed fitting that

there should be lifted high in air such a symbol of the domination

under which the region lay. But my Protestant eyes regarded it

cheerfully, glad to have within range an object so picturesque. I

forthwith strapped on my knapsack, buckled my belt, and strode out for

the Königs-See, which lay not far beyond. I walked briskly for a mile

or two, stimulated by the abounding oxygen of the highland air, but

presently found myself where the road forked and there was nothing to

indicate which was my right path. The solitude seemed complete, but as

I stood hesitating, I was relieved by the appearance of a pedestrian

who emerged from a by-way. As I framed an inquiry I was deterred by a

certain augustness in the stranger. I had rarely seen a man of finer

bearing. His stature was commanding, his figure, even in the rough,

loose walking-dress he wore, was full of symmetry. His elastic step

showed vigour, and his face under his broad-brimmed Tyrolese hat had

much manly beauty. Was he perhaps a prince in disguise? His friendly

salutation, given in deep masculine tones with a good-natured smile,

put me at ease as I told him my strait. He said in good German, which

I was glad once more to hear after my experience of the mountain

_patois_, that he was on the way to the Königs-See, that he knew

the road, and we would walk on together. I accommodated myself to his

stride and we settled into a pace which carried us rapidly toward

our goal, meanwhile talking cheerfully. I had found it usually a good

passport to say I was an American and I withheld nothing as to my

antecedents and my present errand in Germany. He was more reticent.

He lived in Prussia and was at the moment taking an outing. His

affability did not go the length of revealing his true character. If

he were a high personage _incognito_, I was not to know it.

We reached at last the shore of the Königs-See, a blue, deep lake at

a high elevation, encircled by lofty peaks, splintered, storm-beaten,

and capped by snow which never melts, far above the range of grass and

trees. A group of women on the beach had ready two or three broad and

rudely-built boats, and noisily clamoured for our patronage. We

chose what seemed the best, and the women rowers with stout arms soon

propelled us far from shore into the midst of the Alpine sublimity. A

silence fell, broken only by the oar-beats. Then, where the precipices

rose highest we paused. Suddenly a gun was fired. It broke upon

the silence startlingly loud, and after an interval the report

reverberated in a series of crashes from height after height, dying

down into a dull murmur from the steep most distant. I was awed by the

sight and the sound, and awed too, by my companion. He had thrown off

his hat and knapsack and stood with his fine stature at the bow. His

classic face was turned upward to the peaks, and with a look as if he

felt their power. He waved his arms toward them as if in a salutation

to things sentient. The man seemed to befit the environment, majestic

though it was.

We returned sooner than we desired from our excursion on the water,

the boat-women being over eager for new passengers. My companion

resumed his knapsack and it was time to part. To his question as to

my plan I replied that I was there simply for the scenery, that I

purposed to make my way back to Salzburg on foot by the paths that

promised most, and should be guided by whatever I might learn. He said

that he, too, was bound for Salzburg, walking for pleasure; and when I

thereupon suggested that we might go on together, he readily fell in,

and we trudged forward. Comradeship grew strong as the day passed,

then a night in an unfrequented inn, then another day. We discussed

things near and far, ancient and recent, I talking most but he was

always genial and quietly responsive, and my confidence was invited.

I told him of the little fresh-water college in the West with which

I was associated, my functions being partly pedagogic and partly

pastoral, of the embarrassments of co-education as we found them, the

difficulty in the uplift of too frivolous youth to a high moral and

spiritual plane, the embarrassment in curbing characters too reckless

into decorum and propriety. He listened sympathetically, with no

discoverable cynicism in the rather grave smile he usually wore. As to

whom he might be, he remained constantly reticent, though my curiosity

increased as the hours flew. We passed not far from two or three

mountain resorts, where tourists were gathered. Near such my companion

showed some nervousness. There might be people there who knew him, and

it suited him for the time to remain by himself. This I took as some

small confirmation of my suspicion that he was a great personage.

Physically certainly he was superbly endowed. The roads were rough and

often steep, and I found the tramp fatiguing; but when I asked if he,

too, were not tired, he laughed at the idea, tossing his burden or

taking an extra climb as fresh as at the start. At night our cots were

in the same room. As he stripped off his shirt and stood with head

pillared upon a most stately neck, and massive, well-moulded chest and

shoulders, he was statuesque indeed.

At last Salzburg came in sight. Though we had become quite intimate I

had made no progress in penetrating to my comrade's true character.

I had laid many an innocent little trap to induce him to speak more

openly, but no slip on his part ever betrayed him. We entered the city

and sat down together at a table in a public garden, near the castle

of the old Bishops of Salzburg, ordering for each a glass of light

wine, the parting-cup. Already, since our entrance into the city

things had occurred which partly confirmed the theory I had formed as

to the distinction of my comrade, and also aroused in my mind

doubts not quite comfortable. He was an object of interest in the

well-dressed crowd. That he was a conspicuously handsome man in

a measure explained that, but there were signs, too, that some

recognised him as a person well-known. When we were seated in the

garden actual acquaintances began to appear, agile athletic young

men, who were deferential but familiar. There were ladies, too, modest

enough, but certainly unconventional, nimble free-footed beings, with

feathers and ribbons streaming airily as they flitted. These, like the

men, were deferential to my comrade, yet familiar. There seemed to be

a renewing of some old tie that all were glad to reconnect. The young

men were actively demonstrative, the ladies wove in and out smilingly,

and my comrade in the midst beamed and grew voluble. Was it an

environment into which a quiet American college functionary could

properly fit? No due bounds were transgressed, but the atmosphere was

certainly very Bohemian. My prince _incognito_, was he perhaps

the Prince of Pilsen? While this happy mingling was going forward

I sat somewhat aloof, disconcerted that my cloud-capped towers and

gorgeous palaces were thus crumbling into comic opera. But now my

comrade approached me, aglow with social excitement, and, with a

franker look in his eyes than he had before shown, addressed me: "Mein

lieber Herr Professor, we have had a good ramble together and talked

about many things. You have been confidential with me, and hoped that

I would be with you. I have preferred to hold back, but now as we part

I ought to tell you who I am. I am the _prémier danseur_ in the

ballet of the Royal Opera House in Berlin. Worn with the heavy work in

_Fantasca_, which we produced elaborately and which ran long,

I came down here when the season closed, for change and rest,

and so fell in with you. These young _Herren_ and _Damen_ are

the _coryphés_ and _figurantes_, who in Berlin or in other

cities have taken part with me in productions. Good people they are

and unsurpassed as a _corps de ballet_." We touched glasses,

shook hands, and I went my way leaving Comus with his rout, guileless,

I hope, as Milton's innocent "Lady," but such scales never fell from

her starry eyes as fell from mine. I knew well about _Fantasca_.

During my last weeks in Berlin it had been much talked about, a

splendid theatrical spectacle put on with consummate art, and

lavish expenditure. I had not seen it. Heredity from eight Puritan

generations reinforced by impecuniosity had kept me from that. But I

had heard of the wonderful visions of beauty and grace. My handsome

comrade of the Bavarian Alps had been at the centre of it all, the god

Apollo, or whatever glittering divinity or genius it was that swayed

the enchantments and led in the rhythmic circlings. Good cause indeed

I had had to admire his physical beauty. He had been picked out for

that no doubt among thousands, then painfully trained for years until

in figure and frame he was a model.

The gay pleasure garden in which we had parted lay close to a gloomy

monastic structure, centuries old, that from a height dominated the

little town. The garden and the structure were symbols of what was

most salient in that country--the ancient church braced against

progress, with its power broken in no way, and on the other hand of

a life interpenetrated with things graceful and refined, with art,

music, and poetry, but seamed, too, with frivolity and what makes

for the pleasures of sense. My two friends also were in their way

types,--the cowled Franciscan, aloof in a mediaeval seclusion though

he breathed nineteenth-century air, and the dancer whom I encountered

in the vale, above which the Watzmann upholds forever its solemn

mitre. But they were good fellows both, my comrade in and my comrade

out. The monk's heart was not too shrivelled to flow with human

kindness, and the dancer had not unlearned in the glare of the

foot-lights the graces of a gentleman.

I profess to be a man of peace. Through training, environment, and

calling I ought to be so, and yet there is a fibre in any make-up

which has always throbbed strangely to the drum. Is it perhaps

a streak of heredity? In almost every noteworthy war since the

foundation of the country, men of my line have borne a part. I count

ancestors who stood among the minute-men at Concord bridge.

Another was in the redoubt at Bunker Hill. In the earlier time two

great-great-grandfathers went out against Montcalm and were good

soldiers in the Old French War. Still earlier a progenitor, whose name

I bear, faced the Indian peril in King Philip's War, and was among

the slain in the gloomy Sudbury fight Perhaps it is a trace from these

ancient forbears still lingering in my blood that will respond when

the trumpets blow, however I strive to repress it, and it has given me

qualms.

I was not easy in mind when I stood on the tower of St. Stephen's

Church, in Vienna more than forty years ago, to find that what

I sought most eagerly in the superb landscape was not the steep

Kahlenberg, not the plumy woods of Schönbrunn, not the Danube pouring

grandly eastward, nor the picturesque city at my feet; but the little

hamlets just outside the suburbs, and the wide-stretching grain-field

close by, turning yellow under the July sun, where Napoleon fought the

battles of Aspern and Wagram. Nor was I quite easy when I set out to

climb the St. Gotthard Pass, to find that although the valley below

Airolo was so green with fertile pasture, and from the glaciers above

me the heavens were pricked so boldly by the splintered peaks, I was

thinking most where it was precisely that old Suwarrow dug the grave

and threatened to bury himself, when his army refused to follow him;

then how he must have looked when he had subdued them, riding forward

in his sheepskin, or whatever rude Russian dress he wore, this uncouth

hero who needed no scratching to be proved Tartar, while his loving

host pressed after him into every death-yielding terror that man or

nature could throw across his path.

That I had good reason for my uneasiness, on second thoughts, I do not

believe. Nor do I believe it is just for you, high-toned friend, to

censure me as somewhat low and brutal, when I confess that of all

one can see in Europe, nothing thrilled me quite so much as the great

historic battle-fields. Nothing deserves so to interest man as man

himself; and what spots, after all, are so closely and nobly connected

with man as the spots where he has fought? That we are what we are,

indeed that we are at all,--that any race is what it is or is at

all,--was settled on certain great fields of decision to which we as

well as every race can point back. And then nothing absorbs us like a

spectacle of pain and pathos! Tragedy enchants, while it shocks. The

field of battle is tragedy the most shocking; is it doing indignity to

our puzzling nature to say it is tragedy most absorbing? And there is

another side. Once at midnight, in the light of our bivouac-fire, our

captain told us in low tones that next day we were to go into battle.

He was a rude fellow, but the word or two he spoke to us was about

duty. And I well remember what the men said, as we looked by the

fire-light to see if the rifles were in order. They would go into

fire because duty said, "Save the country!" and when, soon after, the

steeply-sloping angle of the enemy's works came into view, ominously

red in the morning light, and crowned with smoke and fire, while the

air hummed about our ears as if swarming with angry bees, and this one

and that one fell, there was scarcely one who, as he pulled his cap

close down and pushed ahead in the skirmish-line, was not thinking of

duty. They were boys from farm and factory, not greatly better, to say

the most, than their fellows anywhere; and we may be sure that thought

of duty has always much to do with the going forward of weaponed men

amongst the weapons. Men do fight, no doubt, from mere recklessness,

from hope of plunder or glory; and sometimes they have been scourged

to it. But more often, where one in four or five is likely to

fall, the nobler motive is uppermost with men and felt with burning

earnestness too, which only the breath of the near-at-hand death can

fan up. No! there is reason enough why battle-fields should be, as

they are, places of pilgrimage. The remoteness of the struggle hardly

diminishes the interest with which we visit the scene; Marathon is as

sacred as if the Greeks conquered there last year. Nor, on the other

hand, do we need poetic haze from a century or two of intervening

time: Gettysburg was a consecrated spot to all the world before its

dead were buried. There need be no charm of nature; there are tracts

of mere sand in dreary Brandenburg, where old Frederick, with Prussia

in his hand, supple and tough as if plaited into a nation out of

whip-cord, scourged the world; and these tracts are precious. On the

other hand, the grandest natural features seem almost dwarfed and

paltry beside this overmastering interest. On the top of the Grimsel

Pass there is a melancholy, lonely lake which touches the spirit as

much as the Rhone glacier close by, or the soaring Finster-Aarhorn,

the Todten See (Sea of the Dead), beneath whose waters are buried

soldiers who fell in battle there on the Alpine crags. Had I defined

all this, I need not have felt uneasy on St. Stephen's spire or the

St. Gotthard. We are not necessarily brutal if our feet turn with

especial willingness toward battle-fields. There man is most in

earnest; his sense of duty perhaps at its best; the sacrifice

greatest, for it is life. Theirs are the most momentous decisions

for weal or woe; theirs the tragedy beyond all other tremendous and

solemn. It is right that the sacrifice they have witnessed should

possess an alchemy to make their acres golden.

The humane, and I hope I may be counted among the number, have long

wished that some milder arbitrament than that of arms might intervene

to settle the disagreements of men. No such arbitrament has as yet

come into being. We settle our disputes in this way, and history must

record the struggles, however reluctantly. As an historical writer, it

has been my function to deal with times of conflict in various periods

and lands. When I was seventy years old I began writing a history of

our Civil War. To have at hand the literature of the period I went to

Washington, where the most kind officials of the Library of Congress

assigned to me a roomy alcove in the north curtain with a desk and

ample surrounding shelves. These were filled for me by expert hands

with whatever I might require for my task, and a screen shut off

my corner from the corridor through which at times perambulated

Roosevelt, and other secluded delvers, intent on early Gaelic

literature and what not. Here I spent the most of two years, finding

it an ideal spot, but my task required more than an examination, under

the quiet light of my great window, of books and documents. The fields

themselves must also be surveyed, so I travelled far until I had

visited the scene of nearly every important conflict and traced the

lines of march in the great campaigns. I was already a haunter of old

battle-fields, that thread of heredity, from a line of forbears very

martial in their humble way, asserting itself in whatever lands I

wandered. I had been at Hastings, and had traced the Ironsides to

Marston Moor and Naseby. I had stood by the _Schweden-Stein_ at

Lützen, and tramped the sod of Leipsic and Waterloo. It was for me

now to see our own fields of decision, fields ennobled by a courage as

great and a purpose as high as soldiers have ever shown.

To mark Waterloo the Belgians reared a mound of huge dimensions,

scraping the _terrain_ far and near to obtain the earth.

Wellington is said to have remarked that the features of the ground

had been so far obliterated by this that he could not recognise

his own positions. One wonders whether the future may not blame our

generation for transformations almost as disguising. Gettysburg,

Chickamauga, Vicksburg, and Shiloh are now elaborate parks. No mounds

have been reared, but the old roads are smooth boulevards, trim lawns

are on the ragged heights, the landscape-gardener has barbered the

grim rough face of the country-side into something very handsome no

doubt, but the imagination must be set to work to call back the arena

as it was on the battle-day. From various points of vantage

memorials make appeal, statues, obelisks, Greek temples, and porches,

bewildering in their number, and now and then making doubtful claims.

"This general," some scrutiniser will tell you, "never held the line

ascribed to him and that pompous pile falsely does honour to troops

who really wavered in the crisis." I know I run counter to prevailing

sentiment in saying that I prefer a field unchanged, not with features

blurred by an overlaying of ornamental and commemorative accretions.

A few markers of the simplest, and a plain tablet now and then where

a hero fell or valour was unusually conspicuous, should suffice, for

a field is more impressive that lies for the most part in its original

rudeness and solitude. At Antietam I found little obtrusive. Sherman's

fields on the way to and about Atlanta have not been marred; nor at

Franklin and Nashville are the plains parked and obelisked out

of recognition. At Bull Run I climbed with a veteran of the

signal-service into the top of a high tree, an old war-time station,

on the hill near the Henry House. The precarious platform remained.

From such an eyrie in the same grove, perhaps from this same tree, a

Southern friend of mine, on the battle-day, caught sight more than two

leagues away of the glint of sunlight on cannon and bayonets toward

Sudley Springs, and sent timely notice to Beauregard that a Federal

column was turning his left. Under my eye the landscape was unchanged,

with no smoothings or intrusions to embarrass the imagination in

making the scene real. But it was in the Wilderness that I felt

especially grateful that the wild thickets for the most part had

been let alone. I found at Fredericksburg an old Confederate, one

of Mahone's command, and hiring an excellent roadster, we drove on

a perfect autumn day first to Spottsylvania Court House, then across

country to the Brock road, then home by the Wilderness church and

Chancellorsville. On the area we traversed were fought four of our

most memorable battles, an area now scarcely less tangled and lonely

than when the Federals poured across the Rappahannock into its

thickets by the thousand, and were so memorably met. My veteran knew

the pikes and the by-paths, and we fraternised with the warmth usual

among foemen who at last have become friends. He knew the story well

of every wood-path and cross-roads. Certainly I was glad that the

rugged acres had undergone no "improvement," and that the eye fell

so nearly on what the old-time soldiers saw. It so happened it

was election-day. There were polling-places at the court-houses of

Fredericksburg and Spottsylvania, at Todd's Tavern, and the Chancellor

house, names bearing solemn associations. The neighbourhoods had come

out to vote, and introduced by my comrade, I had some interesting

encounters. It was a good climax, when toward the end, near

the Chancellor House, we met in the road a patriarchal figure,

whitebearded and sturdy, on his way home from the polls. It was old

Talley, whose log-house, in 1862, was the point from which Stonewall

Jackson began his sudden rush upon Hooker's right. Talley, then a

young farmer, had walked at the General's stirrup pointing out the

way. He had interesting things to tell of Stonewall Jackson at that

moment when his career culminated. "What did he seem like?" I queried.

"He was as cool and business-like as an old farmer looking after

his fences." On an old battle-field which had been illustrated by an

achievement of the Stonewall division especially brilliant, I chanced

to meet a grey veteran who had taken part in it, a North Carolinian

who had come back to review the scene. We fraternised, of course.

"What did Stonewall Jackson look like?" I said. Stepping close to

me, the "Tarheel" extended his two gnarled forefingers, and pressed

between the tips my cheek-bones on either side. "He had the broadest

face across here I ever saw," he said. Such a physiognomical trait is

perhaps indicative of power of brain and will, but I do not recall it

among the usual descriptions of Jackson.

Naturally, after surveying much Virginia country once war-swept, as I

came to the head of the Shenandoah Valley, I could not miss a visit

to Lexington, where repose in honoured graves two such protagonists as

Lee and Stonewall Jackson. It is a beautiful town among low mountains

green to the summit, and in the streets not a few lovely homes of the

Virginia colonial type, draped with ivy and wisteria. There stand the

buildings of Washington and Lee University, in the chapel of which

lies buried Robert E. Lee, and a short mile beyond is the Virginia

Military Institute, from which Stonewall Jackson went forth to his

fame. The memorial at Jackson's grave is appropriate, a figure in

bronze, rugged as he was in face and attire, the image of him as he

fought and fell. Different, but more impressive is the memorial of

Lee. You enter through the chapel where the students gather daily,

then passing the chancel, stand in a mausoleum, where nobly conceived

in marble the soldier lies as if asleep. He bears his symbols as

champion in chief of the "Lost Cause," but the light on his face is

not that of battle. It is serene, benignant, at peace. I was deeply

moved as I stood before it, but soon after I was to experience a

deeper thrill. The afternoon was waning when I walked on to the

Military Institute. Stonewall Jackson had been for ten years a teacher

there. The turf of the parade I was crossing had perhaps felt no

footfall more often than his. Two or three hundred pupils, the flower

of Virginia youth, were assembled in battalion, and I witnessed from

a favourable point their almost perfect drill. As the sun was about to

set, they formed in a far-extending line, with each piece at present.

They were saluting the flag, which now began slowly to descend from,

its staff. Lo, it was the flag of the Union. The band played, I

thought, with unusual sweetness, the Star-Spangled Banner, and to

the music those picked youths of the South, sons and grandsons of the

upholders of the right to sever, did all possible honour, on the sod

which Stonewall Jackson trod, hard by the grave of Lee, to the symbol

of a country united, states now and hereafter in a brotherhood not to

be broken! It was a scene to evoke tears of deep emotion, for never

before or since has it come home to me so powerfully that the Union

had been preserved.

Closing as I do now my record of memories, I feel that the most

momentous of the crises through which it has been my lot to pass

is that attending the maintenance of the Federal bond in the United

States. Assemblies of veterans of the Confederacy and those who

address them scout the idea that they fought to preserve negro

bondage. A late historian of our Civil War, Professor Paxon, of

Wisconsin, holds it to be "reasonably certain" that in another

generation slavery would have disappeared of itself, a contention

surely open to dispute. Here I neither dispute nor approve, but

only say, if the claim can be made good, what a vindication would it

constitute of men, who looked for the quiet dying out of an inveterate

evil, deprecating passionate attack upon a thing moribund? And what an

indictment of the John Browns, whose impatient consciences pressed

for instant abolition careless of whatever cataclysm it might involve!

Certainly the two prime champions whose graves I saw at Lexington did

not fight to sustain slavery. Their principle was that a State could

not be coerced,--and that therefore sovereignty lay in the scattered

constituents and not at the centre. The arbitrament of the sword was

sharp and swift, and happily for the world it went against them. I

well recall the map of Germany I studied when a boy, a page blotched

and seamed with bewildering spots of colour. The effort was to portray

the position of some three hundred independent political units,

duchies, principalities, bishoprics, free cities, and what not, among

electorates and kingdoms of a larger sort, but still minute. It

seemed like a pathological chart presenting a face broken out with an

unseemly tetter. The land indeed, in those days, was afflicted by a

sad political disease. The Germans call it "_Particularismus_" or

"_Vielstaaterei_," the breaking up of a nationality into a mass

of fragments. Some on the map were scarcely larger than pinheads, and

in actual area hardly exceeded a fair-sized farm. In that time Heine

laughed at one of them after this fashion, while describing a journey

over it in bad weather:

"Of Bückeburg's principality

Full half on my boots I carried.

Such muddy roads I've never beheld

Since here in the world I've tarried."

The consequences of this disintegration were disastrous to the dignity

of Germany and the character of her people. She had no place among

the real powers of the world politically, and her masses, lacking the

stimulus of a noble national atmosphere, were dwarfed and shrivelled

into narrow and timid provincialism, split as they were into their

little segregations. Patriotism languished in dot-like States

oppressively administered, without associations to awaken pride, or

generous interests to evoke devotion. Spirits like Leasing and Goethe,

all but derided patriotism. It scarcely held a place among the proper

virtues. The small units were forever unsympathetic and inharmonious,

jealous over a petty "balance of power" and always liable to war. The

disease which the face of the map suggested to the boy's imagination

was indeed a real one, inveterate, deep-seated, and prostrating to all

that is best in human nature. For a few years, before the adoption of

the Constitution, America seemed likely to fall a prey to it, each of

the thirteen States standing aloof on its own little dignity in a bond

scarcely more than nominal, of the weakest and coolest. In 1787

came the beneficent change. The thirteen and those that followed the

thirteen were made one, and it was the beginning of a grand unifying

in many lands. Following an instinct at first only faintly manifest

but which soon gathered strength, disintegrated Germany became one.

Italy, too, became one, and in our old home the "Little Englanders,"

once a noteworthy company, succumbed to a conquering sentiment that

England should become a "great world-Venice," and the seas no longer

barriers, but the highways, through which the parent-state and her

brood of dominions, though flung far into many zones, should yet

go easily to and fro, not separate nations, nor yet a company bound

together by a mere rope of sand, but one. Great nations replaced

little states.

Had the South prevailed in the Civil War, there would have been a

distinct and calamitous set-back in the world movement. It would have

been a reaction toward particularism, and how far might it not have

gone? Into what granulations might not our society have crumbled? The

South's principle once recognised, there could have been no valid

or lasting tie between States. Counties even might have assumed to

nullify, and towns to stand apart sufficient unto themselves. When

the thing was doubtful with us, the North by no means escaped the

infection. The New York City of Fernando Wood contemplated isolation

not only from the Union but from the State of which it was a part. Had

the spirit then so rife really prevailed, the map of America

to-day might have been no less blotched with the morbid tetter

of particularism than that of the Germany of sixty years ago.

Centralisation may no doubt go too far, but in the other extreme may

lie the gravest danger, and rushing thitherward the South was blind

to the risk. I stood with all reverence by the graves of the two great

men at Lexington. Perhaps no Americans have been in their way more

able, forceful, and really high-purposed. But they were misguided, and

their perverted swords all but brought to pass for us and the future

the profoundest calamity. I am proud to have been in the generation

that fought them down, believing that upholding the country was doing

a service to the world. I think of that lofty sentence inscribed

upon the memorial of Goldwin Smith at Ithaca, "Above all nations is

Humanity." Patriotism is not the highest of virtues. It is indeed a

vice if it limits the sympathies to a part. Love for the whole is

the sovereign virtue, and the patriotism is unworthy which is not

subordinate to this, recognising that its only fitting work is to lead

up to a love which embraces all.

And now I toss the "Last Leaf" on my probably over-large accumulation

of printed pages. What I have set down is in no way an autobiography.

It is simply the presentment of the panorama of nearly fourscore

momentous years as unrolled before one pair of eyes. Whether the eyes

have served their owner well or ill the gentle reader will judge. I

hope I have not obtruded myself unduly, and that I may be pardoned as

I close, if I am for a moment personal. My eyes have given me notice

that they have done work enough and I do not blame them for insisting

upon rest. As to organs in general I have scarcely known that I had

any. They have maintained such peace among themselves, and been so

quiet and deferential as they have performed their functions that I

have taken no note of them, having rarely experienced serious illness.

Had Aesop possessed my anatomy, he would have had small data for

inditing his fable as to the discord between the "Members" and their

commissariat, and the long generations might have lacked that famous

incentive to harmony and co-operation. I venture to say this in

explanation of my stubborn optimism, which is due much less to any

tranquil philosophy I may have imbibed than to my inveterate eupepsia.

My optimism has not decreased as I have grown old, and I record here

as the last word, my faith that the world grows better. I recall with

vividness nineteen Presidential campaigns, and believe that in no one

has the outlook been so hopeful as now. Never have the leaders at the

fore in all parties been more able and high-minded. I have purposed

in this book to speak of the dead and not the living. Were it in

place for me to speak of men who are still strivers, I could give good

reason, derived from personal touch, for the faith I put in men whose

names now resound. However the nation moves, strong and good hands

will receive it, and it will survive and make its way. Agitation,

the meeting of crises, the anxious application of expedients to

threatening dangers,--these we are in the midst of, we always have

been and always shall be. Turmoil is a condition of life, beneficently

so, for through turmoil comes the education that leads man on and up.

We encounter shocks that will seem seismic. But it will only be the

settling of society to firmer bases of justice. In our confusions

England is our fellow, but a better world is shaping there, though

in the earthquake crash of old strata so much seems to totter. And

farther east in France, Germany, and Russia are better things, and

signs of still better. Levant and Orient rock with violence, but they

are rocking to happier and humaner order. What greater miracle than

the coming to the front among nations of Japan! Will her people

perhaps distance their western teachers and models. Shall we reverse

the poet's line to read "Better fifty years of China than a cycle of

the West?" Society proceeds toward betterment, and not catastrophe,

as individuals may proceed on stepping-stones of their dead selves to

higher things. The troubles of the child, the broken toy, the slight

from a friend, the failure of an expected holiday, are mole-hills

to be sure, but in his circumscribed horizon they take an Alpine

magnitude. His strength for climbing is in the gristle, nor has he

philosophy to console him when blocked by the inevitable. When the

child becomes a man his troubles are larger, but to surmount them he

has an increment of spiritual vigour, which should swell with passing

years. He lives in vain who fails to learn to bear and forbear

serenely. For human society, and for the individuals that compose it,

the happy time lies not behind but before, and I invite the gentle

reader to accept with me the wise and kind thought of Rabbi Ben Ezra,

now growing trite on the lips of men because we feel it to be true:

"Grow old along with me.

The best is yet to be,--

The last of life for which the first was made.

Our times are in His hand

Who saith a whole is planned.

Youth shows but half. Trust God; see all;

Nor be afraid."

INDEX

A

Agassiz, Alexander, in college, 287; leads to the adoption

of crimson as the Harvard colour, 289; as captain of

industry, 289; as scientist, 290; as philanthropist, 293

Agassiz, Louis, in 1851, 283; as scientist and teacher, 284;

his strength and limitations, 287

Alcott, A. Bronson, at Concord, 249

Alcott, Louisa M., in young womanhood, 237; as writer for

children, 238

Andrew, John A., Governor of Massachusetts, 22; his

speech to the selectmen, 24

Antioch College, in the sixties, 67; dramatics at, 71

B

Bancroft, George, at Berlin, 162; his love for roses, 165;

at Washington, 166; as a historical path-breaker, 167

Banks, N.P., a pathetic figure, his rise and fall, 38

Barlow, Francis C., in college, 57; as a soldier, 61; after

the war, 65

Bartlett, W.P., as a soldier, 54

Battle-fields, as places of interest, 316

Berlin, in 1870, 110

Brooks, Phillips, as a youth, 255; in comic opera, 257; at

the Harvard Commemoration, 260; his breadth of

spirit, 261; at Lowell's funeral, 262

Bryce, James, his home in London, 194

Buffalo, in 1840, 1

Bunsen, the chemist, at Heidelberg, 266

Butler, B.F., at New Orleans, 41

C

Churchill, Lord Randolph, 198

Churchill, Winston, 200

Clark, James B., of Mississippi, 54

Concord, the town of, 233

Cox, Jacob D., 34

Curtius, Ernst, at Berlin, 206

D

Dancer, the, at the Königs-See, 310; at Salzburg, 313

Douglas, Stephen A., in his prime, 6; supports Lincoln in

1861, 8

Dramatics, at Antioch College, 71; in the schools of England, 80

in the schools of France, 76; in the schools of Germany, 72

E

Eliot, President C.W., as an oarsman, 223

Emerson, Ralph Waldo, in his prime, 246; his hospitality,

248; and Walt Whitman, 250; in old age, 253

Eupeptic musings, 332

Everett, Edward, his conservatism, 16; as an off-hand

speaker, 17

F

Fillmore, Millard, as a friend, 2; signs the Fugitive Slave

Bill, 3; effects of the measure, 3; his home-life, 4;

with Lincoln at church, 5

Fiske, John, in youth, 168 and Mary Hemenway, 169; the

"Extension of Infancy," 170; his love for music, 174;

in social life, 175; at Petersham, 178

France, in war-time, 151

Francis Joseph, the Emperor, 141

Franciscan, the, at Salzburg, 307

Frederick, the Emperor, 139

Frederick the Great, his statue, 110; his sepulchre, 131

Freeman, Edward A., in America, 185; at Somerleaze, 186

G

Gardiner, Samuel R., in London, 181; at Bromley, 183

Garnett, Sir Richard, at the British Museum, 179

Germany, in 1870, 108

Gladstone, W.E., in 1886, 200

Goethe and Schiller, their graves, 129

Grant, U.S., his greatest conquest, 28

Gray, Asa, in the Botanic Garden, 278; in the class-room,

279; as a lecturer, 281; his services to science, 282

Grenadier, the young, of Potsdam, 144; of Weimar, 145

Grey, Mr. William, see Stamford.

Grimm, the brothers, their graves, 128

Grimm, Hermann, at Berlin, 212

H

Harrison, W.H., the campaign of 1840,1

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, at Concord, 239; at Brook Farm,

240; as a ghost-seer, 242; as literary artist, 243

Heidelberg, in 1870, 204

Helmholtz, the scientist, at Heidelberg, 268

Hohenzollern, the line of, 132

Hollis, 8; at Harvard, 161

Holmes, O.W., as an oarsman, 223; his versatility and

wit, 224; his deeper moods, 226

Home-life, in Germany in 1870, 124

Howard, O.O., at Gettysburg, 47

K

Kirchoff, the physicist, at Heidelberg, 265

L

Lepsius, the Egyptologist, 209

Lexington, Va., graves of R.E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson

at, 325

Lincoln, Abraham, at church, 5

Longfellow, H.W., in 1851, 218; the incubation of Hiawatha, 225;

memorial service for, 221

Lowell, Charles R., as a soldier, 55

Lowell, James Russell, in his prime, 227; his Yankee story,

227; his Commemoration Ode, 229; his funeral, 232

Ludwig, King of Bavaria, 143

Luther, Martin, his grave at Wittenberg, 130

M

Mann, Horace, as an inspirer, 67

Meade, George G., at the Harvard Commemoration, 29

Militarism, in Germany, 111

Mommsen, Theodor, at Berlin, 209

Munich, in 1870, 148

Museum, the Royal, at Berlin, 121

N

New Wrinkle at Sweetbrier, 71

Newcomb, Simon, as a youth, 271; his parentage, 272; as

an astronomer, 274; his last years, 276

Norman, Sir Henry, 197

P

Paris, in war-time, 152

Parliament, in 1886, 195

Pope, John, a pathetic figure, 42

R

Ranke, Leopold von, 207

S

Saxton, Rufus, at Port Royal, S.C., 48

Schenkel, Daniel, 211

Schools, in Russia, 116

Sedan, The _débâcle_ at, 159

Seward, William H., his Plymouth oration, 13; his too

careless cigar, 14; the Alaska purchase, 15

Sheridan, Philip H., 28

Sherman, T.W., at Port Royal, S.C., 50

Sherman, W.T., in private life, 30; at dinner with, 31;

and John Fiske, 32; his funeral, 34

Slocum, Henry W., and Samuel J. May, 45

Smith, Goldwin, at Niagara, 191; his memorial stone at

Cornell, 192

Stamford, the Earl of, encountered on the Mississippi,

296; as a household guest, 301; a high-born

philanthropist, 304

Stevens, Isaac I., 52

Sumner, Charles, his fine presence, 18; as a youth, 19; a

conversation with, 21; and John A. Andrew, 24; his

strength and weakness, 26

Switzerland, in 1870, 150

T

Taft, W.H., in boyhood, 34

Thoreau, Henry D., in his early time, 235

"Tippecanoe and Tyler too," 2

Treitschke, von, at Heidelberg, 205

U

Uhlan, the young, of Erfurt, 145

Union, value of its triumph in the Civil War, 327

Universities, of Germany, in 1870, 119

V

Victoria, Crown Princess of Prussia, 139

W

Webster, Daniel, his last speech in Faneuil Hall, 10; his

"big way," 11; his "Liberty and Union, now and

forever," 12

Weimar, the young grenadier of, 145

West Pointers and civilians in the Civil War, 33

Whitman, Walt, and Emerson, 250

Wilhelm der Grosse, Kaiser, 138

Wilhelm II., Kaiser, 139

Wilson, James H., 49

Winsor, Justin, as youth and man, 167

Winthrop, Robert C., his ability and conservatism, 17; as

master of the feast, 18

Wright, H.G., 57

The Last Leaf Observations, during Seventy-Five Years, of Men and Events in America and Europe · 第 10 / 10 章