French army, on the approach of the famous battle of Agincourt. Finding
the French nearly ten times more numerous than the English army, he
replied to the King’s question as to the enemy’s strength—“An’t please
you, my Liege, they are enough to be killed, enough to run away, and
enough to be taken prisoners.” The King was well pleased with such an
answer from a man of Sir David’s valour.
In the battle which followed, and which was fought on the 25th of
October, 1415, the King alighted from his horse to head his footmen, and
to encourage them to resist the charge of the second line of the French
army, then advancing; when eighteen French cavaliers, who had bound
themselves by an oath to kill King Henry, or perish, rushed upon him in a
body, and one of them with a blow of his battle-axe so stunned the King
that he would have fallen an easy victim, had not Sir David Gam, with his
son-in-law, Roger Vaughn, and his kinsman, Walter Llwyd, of Brecknock,
seasonably sprung to his rescue. They slew fourteen of the assailants,
and delivered the King, when they fell at his feet, covered with wounds.
In the heat of the battle, Henry was separated from his brave defenders;
but being soon afterwards informed that their wounds were mortal, he
immediately repaired to the spot where Sir David and his faithful
companions lay; and, as the only recompense in his power then to bestow,
he knighted them all three upon the field, where they soon after died.
{176}
Thus ended the life of Sir David Gam; but the remembrance of his loyalty,
and the fame of his valour, will live, and perpetuate his memory.
“So sleep the brave, who sink to rest,
By all their country’s wishes bless’d.
When Spring, with dewy fingers cold,
Returns to deck their hallow’d mould,
She there shall dress a sweeter sod
Than Fancy’s feet have ever trod.
By fairy hands their knell is rung,
By forms unseen their dirge is sung.
There Honour comes, a pilgrim grey,
To bless the turf that wraps their clay;
And Freedom shall awhile repair,
To dwell a weeping hermit there.”
It is conjectured that Shakspeare took Sir David as a specimen, when he
wrote the character of Captain Fluellen, in Henry V.
Returning towards Llangollen from Glyndyfrdwy, along a beautiful level
road, made at the expense of Government, with the Berwyn Mountains rising
abruptly on the right hand, and the murmuring Dee pursuing its devious
course on the left, I pass a small brook, which divides the counties of
Merioneth and Denbigh. A pillar on the top of the mountain above is for
the same purpose. The views over the Dee are incomparably charming.
LLANGOLLEN
Church.
“Hail, ancient edifice; thine aisle along,
In contemplation wrapt, now let me stray;
And stealing from the idly busy throng,
Devoutly meditate the moral lay.”
LLANGOLLEN Church, which stands in the middle of the town, is a low
gothic structure; and the south side appears the most ancient part of the
edifice. At the east end, on the outside wall, are two knees, which seem
to have been intended as the spring of an arch, for an enlargement of the
building. The roof is slated, and there is a tower steeple at the west
end, containing four bells and a clock, with quarter chimes.
The Church is dedicated to Saint Collen Ap Gwynnawg, Ap Clydawg, Ap
Cowdra, Ap Caradog Freichfras, Ap Lleyr Merim, Ap Einion Yrth, Ap Cunedda
Wledig, by Ethni Wyddeles, daughter of Matholwch, Lord of Cwl, in the
kingdom of Ireland; {179} which saint was buried here. In the Church was
formerly a recumbent figure in alabaster, vulgarly called Saint Collen.
The unshapely remains of this monument are still to be seen in the
belfry, where it has been thrown.
The roof of the Church is supported with three massive stone octagon
Doric pillars, of great antiquity, and two heavy abutments. The roof
itself is very curiously enriched with carved compartments, in old oak,
supported by figures of angels, in various attitudes, also of solid oak.
These figures and the roof I suspect to be spoils of the Abbey Crucis, to
which the Church of Llangollen was incumbent. The transom beams that
support the roof are indented with tracery; and on the north side of the
beam over the north aisle, is the following very curious inscription cut
in old letter. It is so lofty that it can scarcely be made out
distinctly, but I have taken some pains to give it correctly:—
“Y nav i ti mair vydd barod bob awr.”
Which may be thus translated:—
“Heaven for thee, Mary, will be open every hour.”
I have little doubt that this beam, as well as the other decorations of
the roof of the Church, was brought from Llan Egwest, which it will be
recollected was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
There is a beautiful half-length of our Saviour in the window over the
altar, painted upon glass by Eginton, of Birmingham, with this
inscription under it:—
“Nid fy Ewyllys i ond yr eiddo ti a wneler.”
S. Luc pen 22 ver 42.
“Not my will, but thine be done.”
I believe there are no other Welch inscriptions in the Church, among the
many grave stones, tablets, &c. which abound; and yet service is
performed in no other language, except on the second sabbath in every
month, and on Good Friday. There are many English families now resident
in Llangollen and its neighbourhood; and to those that are seriously
disposed this is a great privation.
The Church is well served by the very worthy and pious Vicar, who resides
at the Vicarage; yet, notwithstanding, there are four dissenting
congregations in the town, viz. Wesleyan Methodists, Whitfield or
Calvinistic Methodists, Independents, and Baptists.
In the church-yard is a school, under which is a vestry-room, bearing
this inscription:—“This school-house was built at the expense of the
parishioners, having obtained the ordinary license, with consent of the
Rev. R. Price, vicar, 1773.”
The customs of the orthodox Welch Church are similar to those in England,
except in the following, viz. that of bedecking the graves of the dead
with shrubs and flowers; of singing before the corpse to the church; and
the very annoying one of ringing a passing bell in the following
manner:—On the day prior to the funeral the bells are tolled in a very
quick succession of strokes; that is to say, twelve quick strokes on the
first bell, and after a short pause, twelve on the second; and so on once
round, the number of strokes on each bell, denoting the condition of the
deceased. Thus, twelve strokes on each bell denote the death of a
married master of a family; eleven strokes the mother or mistress of a
family; ten strokes an unmarried or young man; nine a young woman
unmarried; six a boy; and five a girl. Then begins an incessant
monotonous toll of the great bell, in minute time, which generally
continues all that day until eight o’clock at night: it commences again
at eight o’clock on the following morning, and does not cease until eight
o’clock at night, except during the time of interment. The usage at the
burial is also novel to an English observer. When the service in the
church is concluded, the officiating minister goes to the steps of the
altar, whereon a sort of wooden plate is previously placed; and the
attendants and friends of the deceased immediately proceed to deposit
money thereon in his presence, which is instead of dues. When the corpse
is consigned to the earth, the clerk receives the donations of the people
that are around the grave, upon the spade with which he is throwing the
earth upon the coffin; and this is his share of the fees.
There is also an old and curious custom observed at Christmas, called
Plygan, or Pylgain, that is, “the time of night when the cock croweth;
the morning twilight.”—On the morning of Christmas Day, the bells are
rung as is usual to assemble to church, about four o’clock; and on their
ringing about six o’clock, most of the parishioners assemble, some
bringing candles, and the church is also lighted up. After the prayers
(morning service for the day) are read, the congregation continue, and
the minister also, hearing original carols in the Welch language, on our
Saviour’s nativity. This time and custom were formerly much more
seriously observed, when men believed
“That ever ’gainst that season comes
Wherein our Saviour’s birth is celebrated,
The bird of dawning singeth all night long;
And then they say no spirit walks abroad;
The nights are wholesome, then no planets strike;
No fairy takes, no witch hath power to charm;
So hallowed and so gracious is the time.”
Except two or three marble monuments in the Church, there are no other
remarkable objects; but in the church-yard are many very neat and
handsome freestone tombs. Some of those recently erected are in the
sarcophagus form, and are very nicely executed.
Nearly opposite the south door of the Church stands a triangular gothic
column of freestone, surrounded by a light iron railing, erected over the
grave of a highly respected domestic of the Right Hon. Lady E. Butler,
and the Hon. Miss Ponsonby. The pillar is executed in good taste, and on
one of the three facades are the following lines, doing much honour to
the heart as well as to the head of the composer:—
In Memory of
Mrs. Mary Carol,
Deceased the 22d of November, 1809,
This Monument is erected,
By Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby,
Of Plas Newydd, in this Parish.
Released from earth, and all its transient woes,
She whose remains beneath this stone repose,
Steadfast in faith, resign’d her parting breath,
Look’d up with Christian zeal, and smiled in death;
Patient, industrious, faithful, gen’rous, kind,
Her conduct left the proudest far behind;
Her virtues dignified her humble birth,
And raised her mind beyond this sordid earth.
Attachment, sacred bond of grateful breasts,
Extinguish’d but with life this tomb attests,
Rear’d by two friends, who will her loss bemoan,
Till with her ashes here shall rest their own.
The poor of Llangollen have much reason to pray that period may be far
distant; for the benevolence of these retired ladies is extensive and
discriminate; and it may justly be said there is not a poor deserving
object in this little town, who does not participate in their bounty. I
shall conclude with a brief notice of their residence.
Plas Newydd.
“’Tis pleasant through the loopholes of retreat
To peep at the great world—to see the stir
Of the great Babel, and not feel the crowd.”
PLAS Newydd, situated at the east end of the town of Llangollen, has long
been the residence of two eminently distinguished ladies, the Right Hon.
Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon. Miss Ponsonby, who came to Llangollen,
and after a time purchased the domain, and planted and decorated the
grounds. It has attained its present beauty under their own
superintendance.
Many years have elapsed since these ladies withdrew from the world, to
which, from their rank and accomplishments, they would have been
distinguished ornaments, and secluded themselves in this beautiful
retreat, where they have uniformly been the benefactresses of the poor,
the encouragers of the industrious, and the friends of all in their
neighbourhood. The peculiar taste and beauty with which these noble and
highly distinguished ladies have decorated and adorned both the exterior
and the interior of their far-famed retreat, excites universal admiration
from the first characters and families, who are continually visiting
them.
A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque figures, carved in oak,
encloses the front, before which a profusion of the choicest flowers and
shrubs is tastefully arranged. The entrance and the windows, which are
formed after the manner of ancient religious houses, are decorated with
carving in the same material. The entrance-door is unique, and a great
curiosity, being beautifully ornamented with well polished carved
figures; the whole of which are of black oak, and kept particularly
bright, giving the retreat a very uncommon appearance. The
entrance-hall, stairs, and passages, are chastely in character; and the
windows are ornamented with painted glass in the most appropriate manner.
The gardens, in which nature and art are judiciously united, are
extensive, and display much taste. The thick and umbrageous foliage of
the lofty forest trees, that occupy a part of the lawn and gardens, is
the safe asylum of numerous birds, which in this calm seclusion revel
unmolested. A pair of beautiful wood-owls have found a safe and quiet
shelter in the trunk of an old ivy-covered tree; and on a lawn a little
further, is erected a pretty moss-covered alcove, furnished with a few
well-selected books: it is nearly in the centre of the garden, and is
open in front. The confidence of the birds is shown by some of them
every year building their nests in this recess: indeed, these airy
inhabitants appear to be quite tame and familiarized by the kindness of
their amiable protectors. I believe the birds have much the larger
portion of the produce of these beautiful gardens, as none of them are
suffered to be molested.
Through the lower part of the shrubbery, a brook, called Cyflymen, i.e.
Speedy, murmurs o’er its pebbly bed, and is crossed by a rustic bridge,
which leads to a bank covered with lichens, and furnished with
appropriate seats, near which rises a pure fountain, whose waters are as
clear as the crystal glasses which ornament its margin: in short, the
beauty of the scenery, aided by a little enthusiam, might inspire the
idea that
“Here in cool grot and mossy cell,
The rural fays and fairies dwell:
Though rarely seen by mortal eye,
When the pale moon, ascending high,
Darts through yon limes her quiv’ring beams,
They frisk it near these crystal streams.”
The carved stone brought from the Abbey Crucis, and mentioned as being
dug up at the time the bodies were discovered, stands near the entrance.
CONCLUSION.
I have thus completed the circuit I proposed at the commencement of my
labours. To hope the attainment of perfection in a work of this nature
would with justice be deemed presumptuous; but I trust any inaccuracy
will be treated with lenity, and that due allowance will be made for the
disadvantage under which verbal information is at all times collected by
a person who does not understand the native language. Thus far I can
with truth say, that, from a desire to combine correctness with
intelligence, I have in no case given that on hearsay, which might be
readily ascertained by ocular demonstration.
With regard to the quotations which I have thought proper to introduce, I
must here again draw upon the kind indulgence of my readers. Not having
an extensive library at my command, I have sometimes been obliged to
quote from memory. This will also, in some degree, account for omissions
of which I may in places be deemed guilty.
I will now take leave of my friends, assuring them that, if I have not
done all I might for their information and amusement, it must be
attributed to any other cause rather than a want of desire and endeavour
on my part. It would, indeed, be unpardonable in me to deserve such an
imputation, after having received so many marks of attention from friends
whom I have had occasion more than once to consult in the progress of my
researches, and being furnished with information from quarters where I
had not the least claim.
AUTHORITIES
REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK.
_The Brut_, _or Chronicle of the Kings of Britain_, contained in
_Collectanea Cambrica_, vol. 1, by the Rev. P. Roberts, A.M. This title
was taken from the _Book of Basingwerke Abbey_; which work the learned
author has translated and collated with _Brut Tyssillio_, the Welch copy
of the Chronicle _Gruffudd ab Authur_; _Collations of the Brut_ in the
Archialogy; Geoffrey of Monmouth’s _Translation of the Brut_; the
_Wynnstay MS._ and the _M.S. Chronicle_ of Mr. Jones, of Gelly Lyfde.
These books are supposed by Mr. Roberts to contain the genuine epistle of
_Gildas_, published A.D. 560.
_Camden’s Britannia_, Philemon Holland’s translation, A.D. 1610.
_Caradoc of Lhancarvan’s History of Wales_, first published A.D. 1150,
translated by Dr. Powel, and augmented and improved by the Rev. W. Wynne,
A.M. from whose octavo edition, published A.D. 1697, the quotations are
made.
_History of Wales_, by the Rev. William Warrington, quarto edition.
_Pennant’s Tour in Wales_, two vols. quarto, 1784.
_Report to the General Assembly of the Ellesmere Canal Proprietors_.
_The English Baronets_, three vols. A.D. 1727.
_Cambrian Itinerary_, _&c._
LIST
OF
SUBSCRIBERS.
A.
AVONMORE, Lord Viscount, _four copies_
Adams, Mr. George, Ruthin
Allen, Joshua, Esq. Wenffrwd
Andrews, Mr. Wrexham
Androse, Miss
B.
BUTLER, the Right Hon. Lady Eleanor, and Miss Ponsonby, _twelve copies_
Besborough, the Earl of
Babbington, Miss, Oswestry, _two copies_
Babbington, Mr. Thomas, Oswestry
Bains, the Rev. E. A.M. Llanderfel
Barlow, Mr. Thomas, Oswestry
Bickerton, Mr. William, Oswestry
Bill, Mr. Richard, Oswestry
Bland, John T. Esq. Ireland, _two copies_
Bowen, Mr. John, Dinbryn
Boycot, Miss, London, _three copies_
Bradshaw, Miss
Bradshaw, Mr. George, jun. Oswestry
Brelisford, Mr. John, Llangollen
Bridgman, Captain, R.N. Knocking
Bridden, Mr. William, Chirk
Burbidge, Mr. John, Llangollen
Butterys, Miss, Chirk
C.
CARBERY, Lord, _three copies_
Cartwright, Mr. John, Shrewsbury
Chambey, Mr. Robert, British Iron Co.
Clarke, Mr. Francis, Corwen
Cooper, Mr. George, Oswestry
Coward, Mr. John, Llangollen
D.
DUNGANNON, Lord Viscount, _ten copies_
Duncannon, Viscountess
Davies, the Rev. I. M. Chester
Davies, Mr. David, Ruabon
Davies, Mr. Edward, Chirk
Davies, Mr. Edward, Oswestry
Davies, Mr. Edward, Llangollen
Davies, Mr. William, Plas Issa
Dickens, John, Esq. New Hall, _two copies_
Dicken, Mr. J. Cefnwern
Dicken, Mr. Halton
E.
EDWARDS, Mrs. Llangollen
Edwards, Mr. Edward, Pengwern Hall, _two copies_
Edwards, Mr. Edward, solicitor, Wrexham, _two copies_
Edwards, Mr. William, Llanrwst
Edwards, Mr. Richard, Liverpool
Edwards, Mr. David, Oswestry
Edwards, Mr. J. bookseller, Oswestry, _three copies_
Edwards, Mr. Edward, Pontcysyllte
Edwards, Edward, Esq. Oswestry
Edwards, Mr. Robert, Rhisgog
Edwards, Mr. John, surgeon, Oswestry
Evan, Mr. William, Liverpool, _two copies_
Evans, Mr. Chester, _six copies_
Evans, Mr. Robert, Llangollen
Evans, Mr. John, Llangollen, _three copies_
Evans, Mr. Edward, Bryn Howell
Evans, Mr. Edward, Dinbryn
Evans, Mr. David, Pentre
F.
FAREWELL, Mrs. Chirk Castle
Foulkes, Mrs. Eliza, Oswestry
Foulkes, Mr. Chirk
G.
GARDINER, Mr. James, Llangollen, _four copies_
Gething, Mr. Zopher
Gisborne, Mr. W. Hartley, Manchester, _five copies_
Glover, Mr. John, Royton
Godfrey, Mr. Englefield Green
Griffiths, the Rev. T. A.M. Llangollen
H.
HUTCHINSON, Lady
Hales, Mr. Oswestry
Harrison, Major, Llantysilio Hall, _two copies_
Harrison, Captain, Rhyd y Murn
Haycock, Mr. E. Priory, Shrewsbury
Heyward, Mrs. Richard, London, _three copies_
Howell, Mr. Samuel, Chirk
Hughes, the Rev. D. A.M.
Hughes, Mr. Deputy Registrar of Bangor
Hughes, Mr. Edward, Pentre Felen
Hughes, Mr. John, Llangollen
Hughes, Mr. John, jun. London
Hughes, Mr. Henry, Oswestry
Hughes, Mr. Hugh, Halton
Humphries, Mr. John, Wrexham
J.
JACKSON, Mr. Grove House, Wrexham, _two copies_
Jackson, Mrs. Oswestry
Jebb, R. Esq. Chirk, _two copies_
Johnson, Mr. Hand Inn, Chirk
Jones, Hugh, Esq. London, _six copies_
Jones, Richard, Esq. Dinbryn Hall
Jones, Lewis, Esq. Oswestry
Jones, John, Esq. Oswestry
Jones, Mr. Robert, solicitor, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. Richard, post-master, Llangollen
Jones, the Rev. Mr. Llangollen
Jones, Mr. Hugh, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. David, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. John, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. John Maesmor, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. Thomas, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. watchmaker, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. William, Chirk
Jones, Master W. Vestris
Jones, Master Robert Albion
Jones, Mr. John, Oswestry
Jones, Mr. Edward, Wern Issaf
Jones, the Rev. J. Ruabon
Jones, Mr. Evan, New House
Jones, Mr. Richard, Dolgelly
Jones, Mr. John, Red Lion, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. John, Glyndyfrdwy
Jones, Mr. John, Llangollen
Jones, Mr. William, Trevor
Jones, Mr. Edward, Llangollen
K.
KENYON, the Hon. Thomas
Kendrick, Mr. John, Gobowen
Knight, Mr. James, Oswestry
L.
LETHBRIDGE, Lieut.-Gen. Shrewsbury, _two copies_
Lloyd, Godfrey, Esq. Llangollen Fechan, _two copies_
Laing, Mr. Oswestry, _five copies_
Lever, Mr. Chirk
Lewis, Mr. Thomas, Brook House
Lloyd, Richard, Esq. Rhagatt, _two copies_
Lloyd, Mr. R. King’s Head Hotel, Llangollen, _two copies_
Lloyd, Mr. Thomas, Chirk Green
Lloyd, Mr. William, Chirk
Lolly, Miss
Lucas, Mr. Francis, Oswestry
Lucas, Mr. James, Staffordshire
M.
MARTINDALE, Mr. Nicholas, Liverpool
Mason, Mr. Liverpool
Maxwell, Major
Maxwell, Mrs. Major
Maxwell, Miss
Maxwell, Miss Eliza G.
Maxwell, Miss Anna Maria Sophia
M’Nure, Mr.
Minshall, Mr. W. Llanddyn Hall
Morris, Mr. Edward, Rhisgog, _two copies_
Morris, Mr. Charles, Wrexham
Morris, Mr. David, Chirk
Morgan, Mr. Thomas, Llangollen
Moxon, Mr. John, Manchester
N.
NEWCOME, the Rev. Richard, Warden of Ruthin
Nicholas, Mr. W. Pentre Hobbin
Noel, Mrs. Edward, _four copies_
O.
ORMONDE, the Marquess of
Ormonde, the Marchioness of
Ossory, the Earl of
Ormonde and Ossory, the Countess of
Owen, Mr. surgeon, Llangollen, _four copies_
Owen, Mr. G. D. wine merchant, Oswestry, _two copies_
Owen, Mr. William, Chirk
Owen, Mr. Edward, Halton
P.
PONSONBY, the Right Hon. Lady Barbara
Parry, Mr. Evan, Llangollen
Parry, Mr. Richard, Pontcysyllte
Parry, Mr. John, Trevor, _two copies_
Perry, S. Esq. London
Peters, Miss, Glyn Allyn
Phillips, Mr. Joseph, Hand Hotel, Llangollen, _four copies_
Pierce, Mr. Wolverhampton
Povis, Mr. London
Povey, Mr. Penvin y Pandy
Powell, Mr. Richard, Oswestry
Powell, Mr. Thomas, St. Martin’s
Powell, John Richard, Esq. Presgwern
Price, Mr. Edward, Llangollen
Price, Mr. William, Oswestry
Price, Dr. Llangollen, _three copies_
Pugh, Mr. Eagles, Llangollen
R.
RICHARDS, Mr. Mardol, Shrewsbury
Richards, Mr. S. Chirk
Richardson, Mrs. Manchester
Roberts, Mr. Peter, Oswestry
Roberts, Miss Harriet, Chirk
Roberts, Mr. land-surveyor, Wern Lodge, _two copies_
Roberts, Mr. Factory, Llangollen, _two copies_
Roberts, Mr. confectioner, Oswestry
Roberts, Mr. Samuel, Oswestry
Roberts, Mr. John, Llangollen
Rodgers, Mr. Thomas, Oswestry
Royd, Miss, Bath
S.
STACKPOLE, William Wentworth, Esq. _six copies_
Stewart, the Hon. Mrs. Killyman Castle, Ireland
Savage, John, M.D.
Scoltock, Mr. Shrewsbury, _four copies_
Shebbeare, Capt. R.N. Cottage, Llangollen, _two copies_
Shiffer, Mr. Thomas, Denbigh
Simpson, Mr. T. Wolverhampton, _twelve copies_
Smale, Mr. Oswestry, _two copies_
Smith, Mrs. Maria, Chirk
Smith, Mr. Thomas, Chirk
Spencer, Charles, Esq. Worcester, _two copies_
Stanton, Mr. Robert, Oswestry
T.
TAYLOR, the Hon. General
Talwrn, Mr.
Taylor, Mrs. Isaac, Shiffnal
Thomas, Mr. David, Oswestry
Thompson, Mr. excise officer, Wrexham
Thompstone, Mr. S. Manchester, _two copies_
Titley, Mr. Chester
Tomkies, Mr. T. Oswestry
Tompkins, Mr. Lion Inn, Shrewsbury, _two copies_
Tompkins, Mrs. Edmund, Shrewsbury
V.
VALENTINE and Throsby, Walsall, _six copies_
Vaughan, Mr. surgeon, Chirk
W.
WYNN, Sir Watkyn Williams, Bart. _ten copies_
Ward, T. E. Esq. Cefnwern, _two copies_
Warrington, the Misses, Wrexham
Warter, Thomas, Esq. Llangollen
Warter, Mrs. sen.
Whitehurst, the Rev. E. A.B. Chirk
Whitehurst, Miss, Chirk
Wift, Mr. Thomas, Chirk
Williams, I. C. Esq. Chirk
Williams, Mr. Owen, Tyddn Ucha
Williams, Mr. Glyndyfrdwy, _two copies_
Williams, Mr. Thomas, Wrexham
Williams, Mr. Edward, Wrexham
Wood, Mrs. Birmingham
Woodcock, Mr. G. Hinckley
Wright, Mr. William
Wynn, Master Jones Lloyd, Dolfawr
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Footnotes.