Born 1602.—Died 1685 or 1686.
The father of Tavernier was a map and chart maker of Antwerp in Brabant,
who removed with his family into France while our traveller was still in
his childhood. Though born of Protestant parents, some of his biographers
have imagined that Tavernier must have been a Catholic, at least in the
early part of his life, before his intercourse with the English and
Dutch had sapped the foundations of his faith, and left him without any!
But the truth appears to be, that although educated in the dominions of
a Catholic king, surrounded by priests, and within the hearing of the
mass-bells, he, as well as the rest of the family, one graceless nephew
excepted, always remained faithful to the Protestant cause. However this
may be, Tavernier, who was constantly surrounded by the maps of foreign
lands, and by persons who conversed of little else, very early conceived
the design of “seeing the world,” and being furnished with the necessary
funds by his parents or friends, commenced his long wanderings by a visit
to England, from whence he passed over into Flanders, in order to behold
his native city.
The rumour of the wars then about to burst forth in Germany kindled
the martial spirit in the mind of our youthful traveller, who, moving
through Frankfort and Augsburg towards Nuremburg, fell in with _Hans
Brenner_, a colonel of cavalry, son to the governor of Vienna, and was
easily prevailed upon to join his corps, then marching into Bohemia.
His adventures in these wars he himself considered unworthy of being
recorded. It is simply insinuated that he was present at the battle of
Prague, some time after which he became a page to the governor of Raab,
then viceroy of Hungary. In this situation he had remained four years and
a half, when the young Prince of Mantua arrived at Raab on his way to
Vienna, and with the consent of the viceroy took Tavernier along with him
in quality of interpreter.
This circumstance inspired him with the desire of visiting Italy; and
obtaining his dismissal from the viceroy, who, at parting, presented him
with a sword, a pair of pistols, a horse, and, what was of infinitely
greater consequence, a good purse filled with ducats, he entered as
interpreter into the service of M. de Sabran, the French envoy to the
emperor, and proceeded to Venice. From this city, which he compares with
Amsterdam, he removed in the train of M. de Sabran to Mantua, where he
remained during the siege of that place by the imperial troops. Here,
engaging with a small number of young men in a reconnoitring party, he
narrowly escaped death, only four out of eighteen returning, and having
been twice struck in the breast by a ball, which was repelled by the
goodness of his cuirass. Of this excellent piece of armour the Count de
Guiche, afterward Marshal de Grammont, disburdened him, considering the
superior value to France of his own patrician soul, and the comparative
unimportance of Tavernier’s life. These little accidents, which seem
to have aided in ripening his brain, curing him of his martial ardour,
he quitted Mantua, and having visited Loretta, Rome, Naples, and other
celebrated cities of Italy, returned to France.
These little excursions, which might have satisfied a less ardent
adventurer, only tended to strengthen his passion for locomotion. He
therefore immediately quitted Paris for Switzerland, whence, having
traversed the principal cantons, he again passed into Germany. Here
he remained but a very short time before he undertook a journey into
Poland, apparently for the purpose of beholding the splendid court of
King Sigismund. His curiosity on this point being gratified, he retraced
his footsteps, with the design of visiting the emperor’s court; but,
arriving near Glogau, he was diverted from his intention by meeting
accidently with the Colonel Butler who afterward killed the celebrated
Wallestein. With this gallant Scot and his wife he staid for some time;
but understanding that the coronation of Ferdinand III., as king of
the Romans, was about to take place at Ratisbon, Tavernier, for whom
the sight of pomp and splendour appears to have possessed irresistible
charms, quitted his new friends and patrons, and repaired to the scene of
action.
Upon the magnificence of this coronation it is unnecessary to dwell,
but a tragical circumstance which took place at Ratisbon, during the
preparations for it, is too illustrative of the manners and spirit of
the times to be passed over in silence. Among the numerous jewellers who
repaired upon this occasion to Ratisbon, there was a young man from
Frankfort, the only son of the richest merchant in Europe. The father,
who feared to hazard his jewels with his son upon the road, caused them
to be forwarded by a sure conveyance to his correspondent at that city,
with orders that as soon as the young man should arrive they should be
delivered up to him. Upon the arrival of the youth, the correspondent,
who was a Jew, informed him that he had received a coffer of jewels from
his father, which he would place in his hands as soon as he should think
proper. In the mean while he conducted him to a tavern, where they drank
and conversed until one o’clock in the morning. They then left the house,
and the Jew conducted the young man, who was apparently a stranger to
the city, through various by-streets, where there were few shops, and
few passers, and when they were in a spot convenient for the purpose he
stabbed his guest in the bowels, and left him extended in his blood upon
the pavement. He then returned home, and wrote to his friend at Frankfort
that his son had arrived in safety, and received the jewels. The murderer
had no sooner quitted his victim, however, than a soldier, who happened
to be passing that way, stumbled over the body, and feeling his hand wet
with blood, was startled, and alarming the watch, the body was taken
up, and carried to the very tavern where the young man and the Jew had
spent the evening. This led to the apprehension of the murderer, who,
strange to say, at once confessed his guilt. He was therefore condemned,
according to the laws of the empire, to be hung upon a gallows with his
head downwards, between two large dogs, which, in the rage and agonies of
hunger, might tear him to pieces and devour him. This tremendous sentence
was changed, however, at the intercession and by the costly presents of
the other Jews of Ratisbon, to another of shorter duration but scarcely
less terrible, which was, to have his flesh torn from his bones by
red-hot pincers, while boiling lead was poured into the wound, and to be
afterward broken alive upon the wheel.
When the punishment of the Jew and the coronation were over, Tavernier
began to turn his thoughts towards Turkey; and two French gentlemen
proceeding at this period to Constantinople on public business, he
obtained permission to accompany them, and set out through Hungary,
Servia, Bulgaria, and Romelia, to the shores of the Dardanelles. At
Constantinople he remained eleven months, during which time he undertook
several little excursions, among which was one to the plains of Troy;
but finding neither the pomp of courts nor the bustle of trade upon this
scene of ancient glory, he was grievously disappointed, and regarded
the time and money expended on the journey as so much loss. So little
poetical enthusiasm had he in his soul!
At length the caravan for Persia, for the departure of which he had
waited so long, set out, proceeding along the southern shore of the
Black Sea, a route little frequented by Europeans. On leaving Scutari
they travelled through fine plains covered with flowers, observing on
both sides of the road a number of noble tombs of a pyramidal shape. On
the evening of the second day the caravan halted at Gebre, the ancient
Libyssa, a place rendered celebrated by the tomb of Hannibal. From
this town they proceeded to Ismid, the ancient Nicomedia, where Sultan
Murad erected a palace commanding a beautiful prospect, on account of
the abundance of game, fruits, and wine found in the neighbourhood.
Continuing their route through a country abounding with wood, picturesque
hills, and rich valleys, they passed through Boli, the ancient
Flaviopolis, when they halted two days in order to feast upon the pigeons
of the vicinity which were as large as fowls. From thence they continued
their route through Tosia, Amasia, and Toket, to Arzroum, in Armenia,
where they remained several days. They then proceeded to Karo, thence to
Erivan, and thence, by Ardebil and Kashan, to Ispahan, where he arrived
in the year 1629.
Being destitute of a profession, and having, I know not how, picked up
some knowledge of precious stones, Tavernier became a jeweller in the
East. Where he first commenced this business, and what quantity of stock,
who furnished him with his capital, or with credit which might enable
him to dispense with it, are points upon which no information remains.
It is certain, however, that in this first visit to Persia several years
were spent, during which he traversed the richest and most remarkable
provinces of the empire, observing the country, and studying the manners,
but always conversing by means of an interpreter, not possessing the
talents necessary for the acquiring of foreign language. The history of
his six peregrinations into the East, as the events which marked them are
not of sufficient importance to require a minute description, I shall not
enter into other than generally, omitting all reference to his obscure
and confused chronology. However, finding that the trade in precious
stones, in which he had boldly engaged, promised to turn out a thriving
one, he very soon projected a voyage to India, for the purpose of
visiting the diamond-mines, and acquiring upon the spot all that species
of information which his business required.
In fulfilment of this design, he repaired to Gombroon, on the Persian
Gulf, where, finding a ship bound for Surat, he embarked for India.
On arriving at Surat, which at that period was a city of considerable
extent, surrounded by earthen fortifications, and defended by a miserable
fortress, he took up his residence with the Dutch, and commenced
business. His Indian speculations proving, as he had anticipated,
extremely profitable, his Persian expeditions always terminated by a
visit to Hindostan, during which he trafficked with the Mogul princes,
who, though no less desirous than himself of driving a hard bargain,
appear to have generally paid handsomely in the end for whatever they
purchased. Upon one occasion Shahest Khan, governor of Surat, having
made a considerable purchase from our merchant-traveller, determined
to make trial of his skill in the art of trade. “Will you,” said he,
“receive your money in gold or in silver rupees?”—“I will be guided by
your highness’s advice,” replied the traveller. The khan, who probably
expected an answer of this kind, immediately commanded the sum to be
counted out, reckoning the gold rupee as equivalent to fourteen rupees
and a half in silver, which, as Tavernier well knew, was half a rupee
more than its real value. However, as he hoped to make up for this loss
upon some future occasion, he made no objection at the time, but received
his money and retired. Two days afterward he returned to the khan,
pretending that after much negotiation, and many attempts to dispose
of his gold rupees at the rate at which he had received them, he had
discovered that at the present rate of exchange gold was equivalent to
no more than fourteen silver rupees, and that thus, upon the ninety-six
thousand rupees which he had received in gold, he should lose three
thousand four hundred and twenty-eight. Upon this the prince burst out
into a tremendous passion, and supposing it to be the Dutch broker who
had given this information, which he insisted was false, to our diamond
merchant, swore he would cause him to receive as many lashes as would
make up the pretended deficiency, and thus teach him to know the real
value of money. Tavernier, who, by this time, understood the proper
mode of proceeding with Asiatic princes, allowed the storm to blow over
before he ventured to reply; but observing the khan’s countenance growing
calm, and relaxing into a smile, he returned to the point, and humbly
requested to know whether he should return the gold rupees, or might hope
that his highness would make up the deficiency. At these words the khan
again looked at him steadfastly with an angry eye and without uttering a
syllable; but at length inquired whether he had brought along with him a
certain pearl which he had formerly shown. Tavernier drew it forth from
his bosom, and placed it in his hands. “Now,” said the khan, “let us
speak no more of the past. Tell me in one word the exact price of this
pearl.”—“Seven thousand rupees,” replied the traveller, who, however,
meant to have taken three thousand rather than break off the bargain. “If
I give thee five thousand,” returned the khan, “thou wilt be well repaid
for thy pretended loss upon the gold rupees. Come to-morrow, and thou
shalt receive the money. I wish thee to depart contented; and therefore
thou shalt receive a dress of honour and a horse.” Tavernier was content,
and having entreated his highness to send him a useful beast, since he
had far to travel, made the usual obeisance and took his leave.
Next day the kelât and the horse were sent. With the former, which was
really handsome and valuable, our traveller was well satisfied; and the
horse, which was decked with green velvet housings with silver fringe,
likewise seemed to answer his expectations. When, however, he was brought
into the court of the house, and a young Dutchman sprung upon his back
to try his mettle, he began to rear, and plunge, and kick in so powerful
a manner that he shook down the roof of a small shed which stood in the
yard, and put the life of his rider in imminent jeopardy. Observing this,
Tavernier commanded the animal to be returned to the prince; and when he
went to the palace in order to express his thanks and take his leave, he
related the whole circumstance, adding that he feared his highness had no
desire that he should execute the commission with which he had intrusted
him. Upon this the khan, who could not restrain his laughter during the
whole narration, commanded a large Persian horse, which had belonged to
his father, and when young had cost five thousand crowns, to be brought
forth ready saddled and bridled, and desired the traveller to mount at
once. Tavernier obeyed, and found that, although upwards of twenty-eight
years old, this horse was the finest pacer he had ever beheld. “Well,”
said the khan, “are you satisfied? This beast will not break your neck.”
In addition to this he presented him with a basket of Cashmere apples,
and a Persian melon, so exquisite that they were at least worth a hundred
rupees. The horse, old as he was, he afterward sold at Golconda for fifty
pounds sterling.
Having concluded his negotiations at Surat, he set out upon his journey
to the diamond-mines; and passing, among other towns, through Navapoor,
where he found the rice, which he regarded as the best in the world,
slightly scented with musk, and through Dowlutabad, one of the strongest
fortresses in Hindostan, arrived in about two months at Golconda. This
kingdom, which was then a powerful and independent state, contained an
abundance of fertile lands, numerous flocks and herds, and many small
lakes, which furnished inexhaustible supplies of fish. Baugnuggur, the
capital (the modern Hyderabad), vulgarly called Golconda, from the
fortress of that name in the vicinity, in which the king resided, was
then a city of recent construction; but nevertheless contained a number
of fine buildings, several admirable caravansaries, mosques, and pagodas,
and the streets, though unpaved, were broad and handsome. Upon the roof
of the palace were gardens, in which grew immense trees, yielding a
large and grateful shade, but menacing to crush the structure with their
weight. Here stood a pagoda, which, had it been completed, would not only
have been the largest in all India, but one of the boldest structures in
Asia, or perhaps in the world. The stones employed in this building were
all of very large dimensions; but there was one of such prodigious size
that it required five years to lift it out of the quarry, as many more to
draw it to the pagoda, and a carriage with fourteen hundred oxen! That a
temple commenced upon such a scale, and with such materials, should be
left unfinished, was not greatly to be wondered at; and accordingly it
was never completed.
The population of this city with its extensive suburbs, though not
exactly stated, must have been very considerable, since the number of
licensed courtesans amounted, as he was informed, to twenty thousand,
the majority of whom inhabited small huts, where by day they might
always be seen standing at the door, while a lamp or lighted candle
was placed by night to light the passenger to his ruin. The principal
of these women presented themselves every Friday before the king, as
was, according to Bernier, the custom likewise at Delhi, when, if his
majesty permitted, they exhibited their skill in dancing; but if he were
better employed they were commanded by the principal eunuch to retire.
These ladies, who were under the especial protection of the monarch,
appear to have been peculiarly devoted to their illustrious patron: for
when his majesty was upon one occasion returning to his capital from
Masulipatam, nine of these faithful servants contrived to imitate with
their bodies the form of an elephant; four enacting the legs, another
four the body, and one the proboscis; and, receiving their prince upon
their back, bore him in triumph into the city! Both sexes here possessed
a high degree of personal beauty; and, excepting the peasantry, who of
course were rendered somewhat swarthy by their exposure to the sun, were
distinguished for the fairness of their complexions.
Though he had undertaken this long journey expressly for the purpose
of visiting the diamond-mines, many persons, apparently, both here and
elsewhere, endeavoured to dissuade him from carrying his design into
execution, by fearful pictures of the mine districts, which, it was said,
could only be approached by the most dangerous roads, and were inhabited
by a rude and barbarous population. However, as he was never deterred by
the fear of danger from pursuing his plans, these representations were
ineffectual. The first mine which he visited was that of Raolconda, five
days’ journey distant from Golconda, and eight or nine from Beajapoor.
The country in the environs of Raolconda, where, according to the
traditions of the inhabitants, diamonds had been discovered upwards of
two hundred years, was a sandy waste, strewn with rocks, and broken by
chasms and precipices, like the environs of Fontainbleau. These rocks
were traversed by veins from half an inch to an inch in breadth, which
were hollowed out with small crooked bars of iron by the workmen, who put
the earth or sand thus scraped into vessels prepared for the purpose,
where, after the earth had been washed away, the diamonds were found.
Many of the gems obtained at this mine were flawed by the blows which
were necessary for splitting the hard rocks, and various were the arts
resorted to by the miners for concealing these defects. Sometimes they
cleaved the stones in two, at others they ground them into as many angles
as possible, or set them in a peculiar manner. Tavernier, who was a
shrewd merchant, soon discovered all their tricks, however; and, able as
they were at overreaching and driving bargains, succeeded in making an
immense fortune at their expense.
The workmen, who, although engaged in dragging forth these splendid
and costly toys from the bowels of the earth, earned but a miserable
pittance for their pains, sometimes conceived the idea of secreting
small diamonds; and, though rigidly watched, occasionally contrived to
swallow or conceal them within their eyelids, having no clothing whatever
except the cummerbund. When a foreign merchant arrived, one of the
banyans who rented the mines usually called upon him about ten or eleven
o’clock in the morning, bringing along with him a portion of the diamonds
which he might have for sale. These he generally deposited confidingly
in the foreigner’s hand, allowing him six or eight days to examine them
and determine upon the prices he would consent to give. The day for
bargaining being arrived, however, it was necessary to come without much
negotiation to the point; for if the foreigner hesitated, made many low
offers, or otherwise endeavoured to undervalue the merchandise, the
Hindoo very coolly wrapped up his gems in the corner of his garment,
turned upon his heel, and departed; nor could he ever be prevailed upon
to show the same jewels again, unless mixed with others.
The view of the ordinary diamond mart was singularly picturesque. It
was a large open space in the centre of the town, where you might every
morning see the sons of the principal merchants, from ten to fifteen
years old, sitting under a tree with their diamond balances and weights
in small bags under their arms; while others carried large bags of gold
pagodas. When any person appeared with diamonds for sale, he was referred
to the oldest of the lads, who was usually the chief of the company,
and transacted the business of the whole. This boy, having carefully
considered the water of the gem, handed it to the lad who stood nearest
him, who in like manner passed it to the next, and so on, until it had
made the circuit of the whole, without a word being spoken by any one. If
after all he should pay too dear for the diamond, the loss fell upon him
alone. In the evening they assorted the gems, and divided their gains;
the principal receiving one quarter per cent. more than the others.
The merchants of Raolconda were extremely obliging and polite towards
strangers. Upon the arrival of Tavernier, the governor, a Mohammedan, who
was likewise commander of the province, received him with much kindness,
and furnished him, in addition to the servants he had brought with him,
four trusty attendants, who were commanded to watch day and night over
his treasures. “You may now eat, drink, sleep, and take care of your
health,” said he; “you have nothing to fear; only take care not to make
any attempts to defraud the king.”
One evening, shortly after his arrival, our traveller was accosted
by a banyan of mean appearance, whose whole apparel consisted of the
miserable handkerchief which was tied about his head, and his girdle,
or cummerbund, who, after the usual salutation, sat himself down by his
side. Tavernier had long learned to pay but little attention to exteriors
in this class of people, since he had found that many of them whose
appearance denoted extreme poverty, and might have excited the charitable
feelings of the passer-by, nevertheless carried concealed about their
persons a collection of diamonds which those who pitied them would have
been extremely proud to possess. He therefore conducted himself politely
towards the banyan, who, after a few civilities had passed between them,
inquired through the interpreter whether he would like to purchase a few
rubies. Having replied that he should be glad to examine them, the banyan
drew forth from his girdle about twenty ruby rings, which our traveller
said were too small for his purpose, but that nevertheless he would
purchase one of them. As the merchant seemed to regard the attendance
of the governor’s servants as a restraint upon his actions, further
conversation was delayed until evening prayer should have called them to
the mosque; but three only attended to the muezzin’s summons, the fourth
remaining to enact the spy during their absence. Tavernier, however,
whom a long residence in the East had rendered politic, now suddenly
recollected that he was in want of bread; and the trusty Mohammedan being
despatched in quest of it, he was left alone with his interpreter and
the merchant. As soon as the spy was departed the Indian began to untie
his long hair, which, according to custom, he wore plaited in many a
fold upon the crown of his head, and as it parted and fell down upon his
shoulder, a tiny packet wrapped in a linen rag dropped out. This proved
to be a diamond of singular size and beauty, which Tavernier, when it was
put into his hands, regarded with the greatest interest and curiosity.
“You need not,” said the banyan, “amuse yourself with examining the stone
at present. To-morrow, if you will meet me alone at nine o’clock in the
morning, on the outside of the town, you may view it at your leisure.”
He then stated the exact price of his gem and departed. Tavernier, who
now coveted this stone with the eagerness and passion of a lover, did not
fail to repair to the spot at the appointed moment, with the necessary
sum of gold pagodas in his bag; and after considerable negotiation
succeeded in making it his own.
Three days after this fortunate purchase, while his heart was elate with
success, and flattered with self-congratulations, he received a letter
from Golconda which cast a shadow over his prospects. It came from the
person with whom he had intrusted his money, and informed him that on
the very day after he had received his trust he had been attacked with
dysentery, which, he doubted not, would speedily conduct him to the
grave. He therefore entreated Tavernier to hasten to the spot, in order
to take charge of his own property, which, he assured him, would now be
far from secure; that should he arrive in time, he would find it sealed
up in bags, and placed in a certain chamber; but that, as at furthest he
had but two days to live, not a moment ought to be lost. Not having as
yet completed his purchases, for he had still twenty thousand pagodas
unemployed, he was in some perplexity respecting the course he ought
to pursue; but as the danger was considerable, he at length resolved
to set out at once. It being imperative upon him, however, first to
pay the royal dues upon what he had bought, he immediately repaired
to the governor to perform this duty, and to take his leave. By this
man’s good offices he was enabled at once to employ the remainder of
his capital; which having done, he departed in all haste for Golconda,
with apprehensions of pillage in his mind, and a long journey before
him. To ensure his safety in the dominions of Beajapoor, the governor
of the mines had granted him a guard of six horsemen, and thus escorted
he pushed on rapidly. In due time he arrived at Golconda, and going
straight towards his golden _kėbleh_, found the chamber in which his
wealth had been deposited locked, and sealed with two seals, that of the
kadi, and that of the chief of the merchants, his correspondent having
been dead three days. His apprehension and alarm, he now found, had all
been needless; for upon proving his right to the money, which it was not
difficult for him to do, his property was restored to him without delay.
This sad affair being concluded, he set out upon his visit to the mines
of Colour, seven days’ journey east of Golconda, or Hyderabad. These were
situated upon a plain, flanked on one side by a river, and on the other
by lofty mountains, which swept round in the form of a half-moon. The
discovery of these mines was made by a peasant, who, turning up the soil
for the purpose of sowing millet, perceived a small pointed sparkling
stone at his feet, which he picked up, and carrying to Golconda, found
an honest merchant, who disclosed to him the value of his treasure. The
discovery was soon rumoured about; merchants and speculators crowded
to the spot, and gems of the most extraordinary magnitude and beauty,
the equal of which had never before been seen, were dug up out of the
earth of this plain, and among others that famous diamond of Aurungzebe,
which when rough weighed nine hundred carats. When they would judge of
the water of a diamond, the Hindoos of Colour placed a lamp in a small
aperture in a wall by night, and holding the stone between their fingers
in the stream of light thrown out by the lamp, thought they could thus
discern its beauties or defects more certainly than by day.
Upon his arrival at Colour upwards of sixty thousand persons, men, women,
and children, were at work upon the plain, the men being employed in
digging up the earth, and their wives and children in carrying it to
the spot where it was sifted for the jewels. Nevertheless, many of the
stones found here fell in pieces under the wheel; and a remarkably large
one, which was carried to Italy by a Jew, and valued at thirty thousand
piastres, burst into nine pieces while it was polishing at Venice.
The third mine, the most ancient in India, was situated near Sumbhulpoor,
in Gundwana, at that period included, according to Tavernier, in the
kingdom of Bengal. The diamonds were here found in the sands of the
Mahanuddy, near its confluence with the Hebe; but our traveller strangely
travesties the name of this river into _Gouel_, and, indeed, generally
makes such havoc with names that there is often much difficulty in
discovering what places are meant. However, when the great rains, which
usually took place in December, were over, the river was allowed the
whole month of January to clear, and shrink to its ordinary dimensions,
when large beds of sand were left uncovered. The inhabitants of
Sumbhulpoor, and of another small town in the vicinity, then issued
forth, to the number of eight thousand, and began to examine the
appearance of the sands. If they perceived upon any spot certain small
stones, resembling what are called thunder-stones in Europe, they
immediately concluded that there were gems concealed below; and having
enclosed a considerable space with poles and fascines, began to scoop up
the sand, and convey it to a place prepared for its reception upon the
shore. Hamilton and other modern authorities, however, observe, that the
diamonds are found in a matrix of red clay, which is washed down among
heaps of earth of the same colour from the neighbouring mountains, and
that in the sand of the same rivulets which contain the gems considerable
quantities of gold are likewise discovered.
I have here thrown together the result of several visits to the
diamond-mines, to avoid the necessity of returning again and again,
after the manner of our traveller himself, to the same spot; and shall
now accompany him through Surat to Agra and Delhi. Having returned to
Surat with his jewels, and advantageously disposed of a part of them in
that city, he departed with the remainder for the capital. At Baroche,
in Guzerat, he witnessed the astonishing performances of those jugglers
whose achievements have been the wonder of travellers from the days of
Megasthenes down to the present moment, and in a barbarous age might well
justify the faith of mankind in the powers of magic. The first feat they
performed was to make the chains with which their bodies were encircled
red-hot, by means of an immense fire which they had kindled, and the
touch of these they bore without shrinking, or seeming to feel any thing
beyond a slight inconvenience. They next took a small piece of wood,
and having planted it in the earth, demanded of one of the bystanders
what fruit they should cause it to produce. The company replied that
they wished to see _mangoes_. One of the jugglers then wrapped himself
in a sheet, and crouched down to the earth several times in succession.
Tavernier, whom all this diablerie delighted exceedingly, ascended to the
window of an upper chamber for the purpose of beholding more distinctly
the whole proceedings of the magician, and through a rent in the sheet
saw him cut himself under the arms with a razor, and rub the piece of
wood with his blood. Every time he rose from his crouching posture the
bit of wood grew visibly, and at the third time branches and buds sprang
out.—The tree, which had now attained the height of five or six feet,
was next covered with leaves, and then with flowers. At this instant an
English clergyman arrived: the performance taking place at the house of
one of our countrymen, and perceiving in what practices the jugglers
were engaged, commanded them instantly to desist, threatening the
whole of the Europeans present with exclusion from the holy communion
if they persisted in encouraging the diabolical arts of sorcerers and
magicians. The zeal of this hot-headed son of the church put a stop to
the exhibition, and prevented our traveller from beholding the crowning
miracle. The peacock, which is found in a state of nature in all parts of
Hindostan, was at that period peculiarly plentiful in the neighbourhood
of Cambay and Baroche, and its flesh when young was considered equal to
that of the turkey.—Being exceedingly wild and timid, it could only be
approached by night, when many curious arts were put in practice for
taking it.
The next considerable city at which he arrived was Ahmedabad, where,
during his stay a very extraordinary circumstance took place, which was
long the subject of wonder in that part of the country. Over the river
which flows by this city there was no bridge. The richer and more genteel
part of the population, however, passed the stream in large boats which
plied continually for passengers; but the peasantry, who grudged or
could ill afford the expense, swam over upon inflated goat-skins; and
when they happened to have their children with them they were put into
so many large earthen pots, which the swimmers pushed before them with
their hands. A peasant and his wife crossing the river in this manner,
with their only child in a pot before them, found about the middle of the
stream a small sandbank, upon which there was an old tree that had been
rolled down by the current. Here, being somewhat exhausted, they pushed
the pot towards the tree, in the hope of being able to rest a moment;
but before they had touched the bank a serpent sprang out from among the
roots, and in an instant glided into the pot to the child. Stupified
with fear and horror, the parents allowed the pot to float away with
the current, and having remained half-dead at the foot of the tree for
some time, found, upon the recovery of their senses, that their child
had either sunk in the stream, or floated Heaven only knew whither. The
little fellow in the pot and his serpent, however, sailed merrily down
the river together, and had already proceeded about two leagues towards
the sea, when a Hindoo and his wife, who were bathing upon the edge of
the stream, saw the child’s head peeping out of the pot. The husband,
prompted by humanity, immediately swam out, and overtaking the child in
his singular little nest, pushed it before him towards the shore. But no
sooner was the act performed than he found bitter cause to repent that
he had achieved it, for the serpent, which had harmlessly curled round
his little fellow-voyager down the current, now darted from the pot, and
winding itself round the body of the Hindoo’s child, immediately stung
it, and caused its death. Supposing that Providence had deprived them of
one child only to make way for another, they adopted the stranger, and
considered him as their own. But the strangeness of the event exciting
great astonishment in the country, the news at length reached the real
father of the child, who forthwith came and demanded his offspring. The
adoptive father resisting this demand, the affair was brought before
the king, who very properly adjudged the infant to its natural parent,
though, by saving its life, the other had certainly acquired some
claim to it, the more especially as by effecting his purpose he had
accidentally rendered himself childless.
On his arrival at Delhi, our traveller assiduously applied himself to
business, and having disposed of his jewelry to his satisfaction, partly
to the Great Mogul, and partly to his courtiers, repaired to court
to make his final obeisance to the monarch before his departure. The
emperor, who loved to exhibit his riches and magnificence to strangers,
particularly to those who were likely to be dazzled, and to render an
inflated account of them to the world, caused him to be informed that he
wished him to remain during the approaching festival in honour of his
birthday, when the annual ceremony of ascertaining the exact weight of
his royal person was to take place. It was now the 1st of November, and
the festival, which usually lasted five days, was to begin on the 4th;
but the preparations, which had been commenced on the 7th of September,
were now nearly completed, and all Delhi looked forward with joy to
the approaching rejoicings. The two spacious courts of the palace were
covered with lofty tents of crimson velvet, inwrought with gold; the
immense poles which sustained them, many of which were forty feet high,
and of the thickness of a ship’s mast, were cased with solid plates of
silver or gold. Around the first court, beneath a range of porticoes,
were numerous small chambers, destined for the omrahs on guard. Between
these, on the days of the festival, the spectators moved into the amkas,
or great hall of audience, which, together with the peacock throne, I
shall describe in the life of Bernier. The emperor, being seated upon his
throne, a troop of the most skilful dancing-girls was brought in, who,
with gestures and motions more voluptuous than the ancient performers of
the Chironomia ever practised, amused the imagination of the monarch and
his courtiers, and excited the amazement of foreigners at the licenses
of an Asiatic court. On both sides of the throne were fifteen horses,
with bridles and housings crusted with diamonds, rubies, pearls, and
emeralds, and held each by two men; and shortly after the commencement of
the ceremony, seven war-elephants, of the largest size, caparisoned in
the most gorgeous style, were led in one after the other, and caused to
make the circuit of the hall: when they came opposite the throne, each
in his turn made his obeisance to the sovereign, by thrice lowering his
trunk to the floor, and accompanying each movement by a loud and piercing
cry. This exhibition being concluded, the emperor arose, and retired with
three or four of the principal eunuchs into the harem. At an auspicious
moment during the festival, a large pair of scales was brought into the
amkas, the emperor’s weight was ascertained, and if greater than on the
preceding year, singular rejoicings and triumphant shouts took place;
but if, on the contrary, his majesty was found to be less unwieldy than
heretofore, the event was regarded with apprehension and sorrow.
Two or three days previous to the barometry of the mogul, our traveller
enjoyed the flattering privilege of beholding the imperial jewels.
Having been first admitted to an audience, he was led by one of the
principal courtiers into a small chamber contiguous to the hall of
audience, whither the unrivalled collection of gems was brought for his
inspection by four eunuchs. They were laid out like fruit in two large
wooden bowls, highly varnished, and exquisitely ornamented with delicate
golden foliage. They were then uncovered, counted over thrice, and as
many lists of them made out by three different scribes. Tavernier, who
viewed all these things with the eyes of a jeweller, rather than as a
traveller, curious to observe and examine, scrutinized them piece by
piece, descanting upon their mercantile value, and the modes of cutting
and polishing by which they might have been rendered more beautiful. In
this mood he feasted his eyes upon diamonds of incomparable magnitude
and lustre; upon chains of rubies, strings of orient pearls, amethysts,
opals, topazes, and emeralds, various in form, and each reflecting
additional light and beauty upon the other.
Having beheld these professional curiosities, he left the Mogul court,
and proceeded by the ordinary route towards Bengal. The Ganges, where he
crossed it, in company with Bernier, he found no larger than the Seine
opposite the Louvre, an insignificant stream which scarcely deserves the
name of a river. At Benares he observed the narrowest streets and the
loftiest houses which he had seen in Hindostan, a circumstance remarked
by all travellers, and among the rest by Heber, who says, “The houses
are mostly lofty; none, I think, less than two stories, most of three,
and several of five or six, a sight which I now for the first time saw
in India. The streets, like those of Chester, are considerably lower
than the ground floors of the houses, which have mostly arched rows in
front, with little shops behind them. Above these the houses are richly
embellished with verandahs, galleries, projecting oriel windows, and very
broad and overhanging coves, supported by carved brackets.” The opposite
sides of the streets stand so near to each other in many places that they
are united by galleries. The number of stone and brick houses in the city
are upwards of twelve thousand, of clay houses sixteen thousand; and
the population in 1803 considerably exceeded half a million. Benares,
according to the Brahmins, forms no part of the terrestrial globe, but
rests upon the thousand-headed serpent Anarta, or Eternity: or, according
to others, on the point of Siva’s trident, and hence no earthquakes are
ever felt there. The Great Lingam, or Phallies, of Benares, is said to
be a petrifaction of Siva himself; and the worship of this emblem of the
godhead so generally prevails here, that the city contains at least a
million images of the Lingam. This holy city, the Brahmins assure us, was
originally built of gold, but for the sins of mankind it was successively
degraded to stone, and brick, and clay.
From Benares he proceeded through Patna and Rajmahel to Daca, then a
flourishing city; whence, having disposed of numerous jewels to the
nawâb, he returned to Delhi.
To avoid repetitions and perplexing breaks in the narrative, I have paid
no attention to the date of his visits to this or that city; and, indeed,
so confused were his notes and his memory, that he does not seem to have
known very well himself during which of his journeys many events which
he relates took place. Into the particulars of his voyage to Ceylon,
Sumatra, and Java it is unnecessary to enter, more full and curious
accounts of those islands occurring in other travellers.
On his return to France from his fifth visit to the East, he married an
_ancient_ damsel, to borrow an epithet from Burke, merely from gratitude
to her father, who was a jeweller, and had rendered him several essential
services. After this he undertook one more journey into Asia, with
merchandise to the value of four hundred thousand livres, consisting
of curious clocks, crystal and agate vases, pearls, and other jewelry.
This expedition occupied him six years, during which he advanced farther
towards the east than he had hitherto done; and having in this and his
other journeys amassed considerable wealth, he returned with a splendid
assortment of diamonds to France, having been engaged upwards of forty
years in travelling. Disposing of these jewels advantageously to the
French king, who granted him a patent of nobility, he now conceived
that all his wanderings were at an end, and began to think of enjoying
the wealth he had purchased with so much time and toil and difficulty.
Experience, however, had not rendered him wise. Puffed up with the vanity
inspired by his patent of nobility, his whole soul was now wrapped up
in visions of luxury and magnificence. He rented a splendid house, set
up a carriage, and hired a number of valets. The nobility, who no doubt
devoured his adventures and his dinners with equal greediness, flocked
about him, invited, caressed, flattered, and ruined him.
Live like yourself was now my lady’s word!
He was prevailed upon by some of his noble friends, who supposed him
to be possessed of the wealth of Crœsus, to purchase a baronial castle
and estate near Lyons, the repairs of which, united with the absurd
expenses of his household, quickly threatened to plunge him into the
poverty and obscurity from which he originally rose. To accelerate this
unhappy catastrophe, undoubtedly owing principally to his own folly, his
nephew, to whose management he had intrusted a valuable venture in the
hope of retrieving his shattered fortune, proved dishonest, married,
and remained in the East, appropriating to his own use the property of
his uncle. To increase the consternation caused in his family by these
private calamities, it was rumoured that the edict of Nantes was about to
be revoked, which induced him immediately to dispose of his estate, and
prepare to emigrate with the great body of the Protestants out of France.
Time for proper negotiations not being allowed, the barony was sold
for considerably less than it had cost him; and every thing now going
unprosperously with our noble jeweller, his family retired to Berlin,
while he repaired, in an obscure manner, to Paris, in quest of funds for
another journey into the East.
Tavernier was now in his eighty-third year, broken in spirits, ruined in
fortune, and bending beneath the effects of age; but his courage had not
forsaken him. He succeeded by dint of great exertions in getting together
a considerable venture, and departed for Hindostan by way of Russia and
Tartary. That he arrived safely at Moscow is tolerably certain; but in
this city we lose sight of him; some writers affirming that he died
there, while others more confidently assert, that having spent some
time at this ancient capital of Russia, he continued his journey, and
embarked with his merchandise in a bark upon the Volga, with the design
of descending that river to the Caspian Sea. Whether this wretched bark
foundered in the stream, or, which is more probable, was plundered, and
its crew and passengers massacred by the Tartars, is what has never been
ascertained. At all events, Tavernier here disappears, for no tidings of
him ever reached France from that time. He is supposed to have died in
1685, or 1686.
His works have gone through several editions, and may be consulted
with advantage by the students of Asiatic manners, though the style,
which is that of some miserable compiler whom he employed to digest his
rough memoirs, be intolerably bald and enervate; while the method and
arrangement are, perhaps, the worst that could have been adopted. Had he
contented himself with the simple form of a journal, narrating events
as they occurred, and describing things as they presented themselves to
his notice, he could not have been more prolix, and would undoubtedly
have rendered his work more agreeable and useful. As a traveller, he
is undoubtedly entitled to the praise of enterprise and perseverance;
no dangers appalled, no misfortunes depressed him; but his remarks are
always rather the remarks of a trader than of a traveller. Wealth was
his grand object; knowledge and fame things of secondary consideration.
The former, however, he gained and lost; his reputation, though far less
brilliant than that of many other travellers, remains to him, and will
long remain a monument of what can be effected by persevering mediocrity.