From Timor to Batavia.
AUGUST 1789.
Thursday 20.
From Coupang we steered north-west by west having a moderate breeze at
south-east with fair weather.
Saturday 22.
At daylight we saw the island Flores to the northward. At noon latitude
observed 9 degrees 27 minutes south, and longitude by account from
Coupang 2 degrees 10 minutes west. Our distance from the coast of Flores
was about 10 leagues; and two high peaked mountains bore north half east
and north-north-west. These two mountains resemble each other in shape
and the westernmost is a volcano. The interior parts of Flores are
mountainous and woody: but near the sea-coast is a fine open country. A
Dutch map with which I was provided places the south part of Flores in 9
degrees 3 minutes south which I am of opinion is too far south. We
steered along the south side of Flores, mostly with light winds and hazy
weather, so that we did not constantly keep sight of the coast.
Tuesday 25.
At noon we were off Toorns island which bore north-west by north three or
four leagues distant. Our latitude observed was 8 degrees 57 minutes
south and longitude made by dead reckoning from Coupang 3 degrees 27
minutes west. Toorns island is about four leagues in circuit and has a
craggy and uneven appearance. There is a curious high peak on the
south-west part: the land near the shore is low and woody.
Thursday 27.
On the 27th at noon we were near the entrance of the Straits of Mangaryn,
which not appearing so open and clear as represented in the map, I
steered for the straits of Sapi, intending to pass through; but was
obliged to give up this plan by strong currents setting to the south-east
which there was not sufficient wind to enable us to stem.
Saturday 29.
I therefore again stood for the Straits of Mangaryn which we ran through
in the afternoon of the 29th, being favoured with a fresh breeze from the
south-south-east. On our first entering the straits we got close to the
Flores shore: our course through was north half east. We tried for
soundings but could not anywhere find bottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth.
On the Flores side there are many good harbours and bays where vessels
may anchor; but the country hereabouts appears burnt up and desolate.
I had no azimuth-compass and consequently could not observe very
accurately the variation; but I believe there is so little in Mangaryn
Straits that no great error will be occasioned by considering the true
and magnetic bearings to be the same.
When we had passed the straits we kept to the westward, running along the
north side of the island Sumbawa, where there is a very high mountain
near the coast, at the foot of which I am informed, are many runs of good
water, conveniently situated for ships to supply themselves. The latitude
of the north part of Sumbawa I make by my observations and bearings to be
8 degrees 6 minutes south, which differs very little from the Dutch
charts.
Monday 31.
In the night of the 31st several prows were rowing about us, on which
account we kept all night under arms.
September. Thursday 3.
This and the two following days we were sailing along the north side of
the island Lombok, on which is a high mountain. Most of the islands in
this route are distinguished by high mountains. Lombok appears to be well
clothed with wood. In the nights we saw fires upon the high lands at a
distance from the coast.
Sunday 6.
In the afternoon we saw the high land of Cape Sandana, which is the
north-east part of Java.
Monday 7.
The next day we were off cape Sandana which is a low cape projecting from
the high land already mentioned. This cape is placed by the Dutch maps in
7 degrees 52 minutes south. But according to my observation and our
estimated distance from the land I make it in 7 degrees 46 minutes south
latitude. The longitude by my dead reckoning from Coupang to Cape Sandana
was 11 degrees 33 minutes west.
Thursday 10.
We steered to the westward along the coast of Java and on the 10th at
noon we anchored off Passourwang, a Dutch settlement on the coast of
Java, in two fathoms, distant from the shore half a league, the entrance
of the river bearing south-west. The coast hereabouts so is shoal that
large ships are obliged to anchor three or four miles from the land. As
soon as we were at anchor I got in my boat and went on shore. The banks
of the river near the entrance were mud, on which grew a few mangrove
bushes. Among them we saw hogs running and many were laying dead in the
mud, which caused a most intolerable stench and made me heartily repent
having come here; but after proceeding about a mile up the river, the
course of which was serpentine, we found a very pleasant country and
landed at a small and well-constructed fort, where I was received in a
friendly and polite manner by M. Adrian van Rye, the commandant. By the
return of the boat I sent on board a small bullock and other provisions.
I likewise took a pilot to conduct us to Sourabaya.
The houses at Passourwang are neatly built and the country appears to be
well cultivated. The produce of this settlement is rice, of which they
export large quantities. There are but few Dutch here: the Javanese are
numerous and their chief lives with considerable splendour. They have
good roads and posts are established along the coast; and it appears to
be a busy and well-regulated settlement. Latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes
south. Longitude 1 degree 44 minutes west of Cape Sandana.
Friday 11.
The next day about noon we sailed.
Saturday 12.
And on the 12th in the evening anchored in Sourabaya road in seven
fathoms: the flagstaff bearing south one quarter west; distance from the
shore one mile. We found riding here seven square-rigged and several
smaller vessels.
It was too late when we anchored to send a boat on shore.
Sunday 13.
The next morning before daylight three guard-boats stationed themselves
near us and I was informed that I must not land or send a boat on shore.
This restriction I learnt from the officer of the guard-boats was in
conformity to general orders concerning all strange vessels on their
first arrival. At nine in the forenoon leave came off for us to land and
soon after the guard-boats quitted us.
I was received on shore with great civility and friendship by the
governor or Opperhoost M. Ant. Barkay, and the commandant of the troops
M. de Bose. By these gentlemen I was hospitably entertained, and advised
to remain till the 16th when some vessels were to sail, with whom I might
keep company, which they recommended on account of pirates.
Sourabaya is one of the most pleasant places I ever saw. It is situated
on the banks of a river and is a mile and a half distant from the
seashore so that only the flagstaff can be seen from the road. The river
is navigable up to the town for vessels of 100 tons burden, and the bank
on one side is made convenient for tracking. The Chinese carry on a
considerable trade here, and have a town or camp on the side of the river
opposite to Sourabaya. The country near the town is flat and the soil
light, so that they plow with a single bullock or buffalo (karrabow). The
interior parts of the country near the mountains are infested with a
breed of fierce tigers, which makes travelling inland very dangerous.
They have here a breed of horses which are small but they are handsome
and strong.
The Javanese in this neighbourhood are numerous. M. Barkay and M. de Bose
took me with them to pay a visit to two of the principal natives, whom we
found attended by a number of men armed with pikes in great military
order. We were entertained with a concert of music; the instruments were
gongs, drums, and a fiddle with two strings. I hired a pilot here to
carry us to Batavia. Our latitude observed in Sourabaya road was 7
degrees 11 minutes south. Longitude made from Cape Sandana 1 degree 52
minutes west.
Thursday 17.
On the 17th we sailed from Sourabaya in company with three prows. At noon
we anchored at Crissey which is a town with a small fort belonging to the
Dutch. We remained here about two hours and then weighed. Latitude of
Crissey 7 degrees 9 minutes south. Longitude from Cape Sandana 1 degree
55 minutes west.
The navigation through the Straits of Madura is so intricate that with
the little opportunity I had I am unable to undertake a description of
it.
Friday 18.
The next day, having passed the straits, we bore away to the westward
along the coast of Java in company with the prows before mentioned.
Tuesday 22.
We had regular soundings all the way to Samarang, off which place we
anchored on the 22nd in the afternoon; the church bearing south-east;
distance from the shore half a league: depth of water two fathoms. The
shoalness of the coast here makes the road of Samarang very inconvenient,
both on account of the great distance that large ships (of which there
were several in the road) are obliged to lay from the shore, and of the
landing which is in a river that cannot be entered before half-flood.
This river resembles the one at Passourwang, the shores being low with
offensive dead animals laying about. I was met at the landing-place by
the equipage-master, and he furnished me with a carriage to carry me to
the governor, whose residence is about two miles from the town of
Samarang. I requested and obtained leave to have our wants supplied,
which were to recruit our provisions, and to get a any mainmast, having
sprung ours in the passage from Sourabaya.
Samarang is a fortified town surrounded by a wall and ditch, and is the
most considerable settlement next to Batavia that the Dutch have in Java.
Here is a very good hospital and a public school, chiefly for teaching
the mathematics. They have likewise a theatre. Provisions are remarkably
cheap here, beef being at ten doits per pound and the price of a fowl 12
doits.
I experienced great civility from some of the gentlemen at Samarang,
particularly from M. le Baron de Bose, a merchant, brother to the M. de
Bose, commandant of the troops at Sourabaya: and from M. Abegg, the
surgeon of the hospital, to whom we were indebted for advice and
medicines for which he would not consent to receive payment.
The latitude of Samarang is 6 degrees 57 minutes. Longitude by my
reckoning from Cape Sandana 4 degrees 7 minutes west.
Saturday 26.
On the 26th we sailed from Samarang and with us a galley mounting six
swivels which the governor had directed to accompany us to Batavia.
October. Thursday 1.
On the 1st of October we anchored in Batavia road, where we found riding
a Dutch ship of war and 20 sail of Dutch East India ships, besides many
smaller vessels.