Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.
Arrive at Coupang.
Reception there.
June 1789.
Wednesday 3.
At eight o'clock in the evening we once more launched into the open
ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect I was secretly
surprised to see that it did not appear to affect anyone so strongly as
myself; on the contrary it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage to
Timor in a vessel sufficiently calculated for safety and convenience. So
much confidence gave me great pleasure and I may venture to assert that
to this cause our preservation is chiefly to be attributed.
I encouraged everyone with hopes that eight or ten days would bring us to
a land of safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most
gracious protection, I served an allowance of water for supper and
directed our course to the west-south-west to counteract the southerly
winds in case they should blow strong.
We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland in the course of
which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps a
benefit nearly equal to this we received by having been relieved from the
fatigue of being constantly in the boat and enjoying good rest at night.
These advantages certainly preserved our lives and, small as the supply
was, I am very sensible how much it alleviated our distresses. By this
time nature must have sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some
would have ceased to struggle for a life that only promised wretchedness
and misery; and others, though possessed of more bodily strength, must
soon have followed their unfortunate companions. Even in our present
situation we were most deplorable objects; but the hopes of a speedy
relief kept up our spirits. For my own part, incredible as it may appear,
I felt neither extreme hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me,
knowing that I could have no more.
Thursday 4.
I served one 25th of a pound of bread and an allowance of water for
breakfast and the same for dinner with an addition of six oysters to each
person. At noon latitude observed 10 degrees 48 minutes south; course
since yesterday noon south 81 degrees west, distance 111 miles; longitude
by account from Shoal Cape 1 degree 45 minutes west. A strong tradewind
at east-south-east with fair weather.
This day we saw a number of water-snakes that were ringed yellow and
black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of rock-weed. Though the
weather was fair we were constantly shipping water, which kept two men
always employed to bale the boat.
Friday 5.
At noon I observed in latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes south; our course
since yesterday west one quarter north, 108 miles; longitude made 3
degrees 35 minutes west. Six oysters were, as yesterday, served to each
man, in addition to the usual allowance of bread and water.
In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught with my
hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakest, but
the bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a
quarter of a pint of water for supper, and to some who were most in need
half a pint. In the course of the night, being constantly wet with the
sea, we suffered much cold and shiverings.
Saturday 6.
At daylight I found that some of the clams which had been hung up to dry
for sea-store were stolen; but everyone solemnly denied having any
knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark and some
water-snakes which in general were from two or three feet long.
The usual allowance of bread and water was served for breakfast, and the
same for dinner with the bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of
Who shall have this? I proposed to make Timor about the latitude of 9
degrees 30 minutes south, or 10 degrees south. At noon I observed the
latitude to be 10 degrees 19 minutes south; course north 77 degrees west,
distance 117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the north part of
New Holland, 5 degrees 31 minutes west.
In the afternoon I took an opportunity of examining our store of bread,
and found remaining 19 days allowance, at the former rate of serving one
25th of a pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw every prospect of
a quick passage, I again ventured to grant an allowance for supper,
agreeable to my promise at the time it was discontinued.
Sunday 7.
We passed the night miserably wet and cold and in the morning I heard
heavy complaints. The sea was high and breaking over us. I could only
afford the allowance of bread and water for breakfast, but for dinner I
gave out an ounce of dried clams to each person, which was all that
remained.
At noon I altered the course to the west-north-west to keep more from the
sea, as the wind blew strong. Latitude observed 9 degrees 31 minutes
south; course north 57 degrees west, distance 88 miles; longitude made 6
degrees 46 minutes west.
The sea ran very high all this day and we had frequent showers of rain so
that we were continually wet and suffered much cold in the night. Mr.
Ledward the surgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, appeared
to be giving way very fast. I could only assist them by a teaspoonful or
two of wine which I had carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy
necessity.
Monday 8.
Wind at south-east. The weather was more moderate than it had been for
some days past. A few gannets were seen. At noon I observed in 8 degrees
45 minutes south; course west-north-west one quarter west, 106 miles;
longitude made 8 degrees 23 minutes west. The sea being smooth I steered
west by south.
At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, which was the first
relief of the kind that we obtained. I issued about two ounces to each
person, including the offals, and saved the remainder for dinner the next
day. Towards evening the wind freshened and it blew strong all night, so
that we shipped much water and suffered greatly from the wet and cold.
Tuesday 9.
At daylight as usual I heard much complaining, which my own feelings
convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon the Lebogue a
little wine but I could afford them no farther relief except encouraging
them with hopes that a very few days longer, at our present fine rate of
sailing, would bring us to Timor.
Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly about us.
Served the usual allowance of bread and water and at noon we dined on the
remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. I
observed the latitude to be 9 degrees 9 minutes south; longitude made 10
degrees 8 minutes west; course since yesterday noon south 76 degrees
west; distance 107 miles.
This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the nature of part of the
stomach of the fish which had fallen to my share at dinner. At sunset
served an allowance of bread and water for supper.
Wednesday 10.
In the morning after a very comfortless night there was a visible
alteration for the worse in many of the people which gave me great
apprehensions. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly
countenances, a more than common inclination to sleep, with an apparent
debility of understanding, seemed to me the melancholy presages of an
approaching dissolution. The surgeon and Lebogue, in particular, were
most miserable objects. I occasionally gave them a few teaspoonfuls of
wine out of the little that remained, which greatly assisted them. The
hopes of being able to accomplish the voyage was our principal support.
The boatswain very innocently told me that he really thought I looked
worse than anyone in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such
an opinion amused me and I returned him a better compliment.
Our latitude at noon was 9 degrees 16 minutes south. Longitude from the
north part of New Holland 12 degrees 1 minute west. Course since
yesterday noon west half south 111 miles. Birds and rock-weed showed that
we were not far from land, but I expected such signs here as there are
many islands between the east part of Timor and New Guinea. The night was
more moderate than the last.
Thursday 11.
Everyone received the customary allowance of bread and water, and an
extra allowance of water was given to those who were most in need. At
noon I observed in latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes south; course 77 degrees
west, distance 109 miles; longitude made 13 degrees 49 minutes west. I
had little doubt of having now passed the meridian of the eastern part of
Timor which is laid down in 128 degrees east. This diffused universal joy
and satisfaction.
In the afternoon we saw gannets and many other birds, and at sunset we
kept a very anxious lookout. In the evening we caught a booby which I
reserved for our dinner the next day.
Friday 12.
At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor
bearing from west-south-west to west-north-west, and I hauled on a wind
to the north-north-east till daylight, when the land bore from south-west
by south to north-east by north. Our distance from the shore two leagues.
It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the blessing of
the sight of this land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible to
ourselves that, in an open boat and so poorly provided, we should have
been able to reach the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving
Tofoa, having in that time run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles; and
that, notwithstanding our extreme distress, no one should have perished
in the voyage.
I have already mentioned that I knew not where the Dutch settlement was
situated but I had a faint idea that it was at the south-west part of the
island. I therefore, after daylight, bore away alongshore to the
south-south-west, which I was the more readily induced to do as the wind
would not suffer us to go towards the north-east without great loss of
time.
The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land which was
interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part mountainous, but the
shore low. Towards noon the coast became higher with some remarkable
headlands. We were greatly delighted with the general look of the country
which exhibited many cultivated spots and beautiful situations; but we
could only see a few small huts whence I concluded that no European
resided in this part of the island. Much sea ran on the shore which made
landing impracticable. At noon we were abreast of a high headland; the
extremes of the land bore south-west half west, and north-north-east half
east; our distance offshore being three miles; latitude by observation 9
degrees 59 minutes south; and my longitude by dead reckoning from the
north part of New Holland 15 degrees 6 minutes west.
With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner I divided the bird
we had caught the night before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I gave a
little wine.
The wind blew fresh at east and east-south-east with very hazy weather.
During the afternoon we continued our course along a low shore covered
with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading
like a fan; but here we saw no signs of cultivation, nor had the country
so fine an appearance as to the eastward. This however was only a small
tract, for by sunset it improved again and I saw several great smokes
where the inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their grounds. We had
now run 25 miles to the west-south-west since noon and were west five
miles from a low point which, in the afternoon, I imagined had been the
southernmost land, and here the coast formed a deep bend with low land in
the bight that appeared like islands. The west shore was high; but from
this part of the coast to the high cape which we were abreast of at noon
the shore is low and I believe shoal. I particularly remark this
situation because here the very high ridge of mountains that run from the
east end of the island, terminate, and the appearance of the country
changes for the worse.
That we might not run past any settlement in the night I determined to
preserve my station till the morning and therefore brought to under a
close-reefed foresail. We were here in shoal water, our distance from the
shore being half a league, the westernmost land in sight bearing
west-south-west half west. Served bread and water for supper and, the
boat lying to very well, all but the officer of the watch endeavoured to
get a little sleep.
Saturday 13.
At two in the morning we wore and stood in shore till daylight when I
found we had drifted during the night about three leagues to the
west-south-west, the southernmost land in sight bearing west. On
examining the coast and not seeing any sign of a settlement we bore away
to the westward having a strong gale against a weather current which
occasioned much sea. The shore was high and covered with wood, but we did
not run far before low land again formed the coast, the points of which
opening at west I once more fancied we were on the south part of the
island; but at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the
south, part of it bearing west-south-west half west. At the same time
high land appeared in the south-west; but the weather was so hazy that it
was doubtful whether the two lands were separated, the opening only
extending one point of the compass. For this reason I stood towards the
outer land and found it to be the island Roti.
I returned to the shore we had left and brought to a grapnel in a sandy
bay that I might more conveniently calculate my situation. In this place
we saw several smokes where the natives were clearing their grounds.
During the little time we remained here the master and carpenter very
much importuned me to let them go in search of supplies; to which at
length I assented but, not finding any other person willing to be of
their party, they did not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no
longer than for the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering
alongshore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking country as if formed by
art into lawns and parks. The coast is low and covered with woods in
which are innumerable fan palm-trees that look like coconut walks. The
interior part is high land but very different from the more eastern parts
of the island where it is exceedingly mountainous and to appearance the
soil better.
At noon the island Roti bore south-west by west seven leagues. I had no
observation for the latitude but by account we were in 10 degrees 12
minutes south; our course since yesterday noon being south 77 degrees
west 54 miles. The usual allowance of bread and water was served for
breakfast and dinner, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I continued to give
wine.
We had a strong breeze at east-south-east with hazy weather all the
afternoon. At two o'clock, having run through a very dangerous breaking
sea, the cause of which I attributed to be a strong tide setting to
windward, and shoal water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound with a
fair entrance about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that
our voyage was nearly at an end as no place could appear more eligible
for shipping or more likely to be chosen for a European settlement: I
therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance in a small
sandy bay where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle, and I immediately
sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut to discover the
inhabitants.
The south-west point of the entrance bore west half south three miles;
the south-east point south by west three-quarters of a mile; and the
island Roti from south by west one quarter west to south-west one quarter
west about five leagues.
While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before our
departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks about
two cables length from the shore, the whole being covered at high-water
renders it dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared very high
breakers; but there is nevertheless plenty of room and certainly a safe
channel for a first-rate man of war.
The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable extent, the
northern part being about five leagues distant. Here the land made in
moderate risings joined by lower grounds. But the island Roti to the
southward is the best mark by which to know this place.
I had just time to make these remarks when I saw the boatswain and gunner
returning with some of the natives: I therefore no longer doubted of our
success and that our expectations would be fully gratified. They brought
five Indians and informed me that they had found two families where the
women treated them with European politeness. From these people I learned
that the governor resided at a place called Coupang which was some
distance to the north-east. I made signs for one of them to go in the
boat and show us the way to Coupang, intimating that I would pay him for
his trouble: the man readily complied and came into the boat.
These people were of a dark tawny colour, had long black hair, and chewed
a great deal of betel. Their dress was a square piece of cloth round the
hips in the folds of which was stuck a large knife; a handkerchief
wrapped round the head, and another hanging by the four corners from the
shoulders, which served as a bag for their betel equipage. They brought
us a few pieces of dried turtle and some ears of Indian corn. This last
was the most welcome; for the turtle was so hard that it could not be
eaten without being first soaked in hot water. They offered to bring us
some other refreshments if I would wait, but as the pilot was willing I
determined to push on. It was about half an hour past four when we
sailed.
By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore under all our
sail; but as night came on the wind died away and we were obliged to try
at the oars which I was surprised to see we could use with some effect.
At ten o'clock, finding we advanced but slowly, I came to a grapnel and
for the first time I issued double allowance of bread and a little wine
to each person.
Sunday 14.
At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep that
ever men enjoyed, we weighed and continued to keep the east shore on
board in very smooth water; when at last I found we were again open to
the sea, the whole of the land to the westward that we had passed being
an island which the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of
this channel is about a mile and a half or two miles wide and I had no
ground at ten fathoms.
The report of two cannon that were fired gave new life to everyone; and
soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter at anchor
to the eastward. We endeavoured to work to windward but were obliged to
take to our oars again, having lost ground on each tack. We kept close to
the shore and continued rowing till four o'clock when I brought to a
grapnel and gave another allowance of bread and wine to all hands. As
soon as we had rested a little we weighed again, and rowed till near
daylight when we came to a grapnel off a small fort and town which the
pilot told me was Coupang.
Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat before we
left the ship was a bundle of signal flags that had been used by the
boats to show the depth of water in sounding; with these we had in the
course of the passage made a small jack which I now hoisted in the main
shrouds as a signal of distress, for I did not think proper to land
without leave.
Soon after daybreak a soldier hailed us to land, which I immediately did
among a crowd of Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an
English sailor who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His
captain he told me was the second person in the town; I therefore desired
to be conducted to him as I was informed the governor was ill and could
not then be spoken with.
Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of our
distressed situation; and requested that care might be taken of those who
were with me without delay. On which he gave directions for their
immediate reception at his own house, and went himself to the governor to
know at what time I could be permitted to see him, which was fixed to be
at eleven o'clock.
I now desired my people to come on shore which was as much as some of
them could do, being scarce able to walk: they however were helped to the
house and found tea with bread and butter provided for their breakfast.
The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could seldom have been displayed to
more advantage than in the delineation of the two groups of figures which
at this time presented themselves to each other. An indifferent spectator
would have been at a loss which most to admire, the eyes of famine
sparkling at immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the
sight of so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had
been unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were
nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were
clothed in rags: in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude
flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of
horror, surprise, and pity.
The governor, Mr. William Adrian van Este, notwithstanding extreme
ill-health, became so anxious about us that I saw him before the
appointed time. He received me with great affection and gave me the
fullest proofs that he was possessed of every feeling of a humane and
good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that such a calamity could ever have
happened to us, yet he considered it as the greatest blessing of his life
that we had fallen under his protection and, though his infirmity was so
great that he could not do the office of a friend himself, he would give
such orders as I might be certain would procure us every supply we
wanted. A house should be immediately prepared for me, and with respect
to my people he said that I might have room for them either at the
hospital or on board of captain Spikerman's ship which lay in the road;
and he expressed much uneasiness that Coupang could not afford them
better accommodations, the house assigned to me being the only one
uninhabited and the situation of the few families that lived at this
place such that they could not conveniently receive strangers. For the
present till matters could be properly regulated he gave directions that
victuals for my people should be dressed at his own house.
On returning to Captain Spikerman's house I found that every kind relief
had been given to my people. The surgeon had dressed their sores and the
cleaning of their persons had not been less attended to, several friendly
gifts of apparel having been presented to them.
I desired to be shown to the house that was intended for me, which I
found ready with servants to attend. It consisted of a hall, with a room
at each end, and a loft overhead; and was surrounded by a piazza with an
outer apartment in one corner and a communication from the back part of
the house to the street. I therefore determined, instead of separating
from my people, to lodge them all with me; and I divided the house as
follows: one room I took to myself, the other I allotted to the master,
surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the loft to the other officers, and
the outer apartment to the men. The hall was common to the officers and
the men had the back piazza. Of this disposition I informed the governor,
and he sent down chairs, tables and benches, with bedding and other
necessaries for the use of everyone.
The governor when I took my leave had desired me to acquaint him with
everything of which I stood in need; but it was only at particular times
that he had a few moments of ease, or could attend to anything, being in
a dying state with an incurable disease. On this account I transacted
whatever business I had with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this
place, who was the governor's son-in-law, and who also contributed
everything in his power to make our situation comfortable. I had been,
therefore, misinformed by the seaman who told me that captain Spikerman
was the next person in command to the governor.
At noon a dinner was brought to the house sufficiently good to make
persons more accustomed to plenty eat too much. Yet I believe few in such
a situation would have observed more moderation than my people did. My
greatest apprehension was that they would eat too much fruit, of which
there was great variety in season at this time.
Having seen everyone enjoy this meal of plenty I dined myself with Mr.
Wanjon; but I felt no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest and
quiet I considered as more necessary to the reestablishment of my health
and therefore retired soon to my room which I found furnished with every
convenience. But instead of rest my mind was disposed to reflect on our
late sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but above all on
the thanks due to Almighty God who had given us power to support and bear
such heavy calamities and had enabled me at last to be the means of
saving eighteen lives.
In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that bear
particularly hard on a commander. In our late situation it was not the
least of my distresses to be constantly assailed with the melancholy
demands of my people for an increase of allowance which it grieved me to
refuse. The necessity of observing the most rigid economy in the
distribution of our provisions was so evident that I resisted their
solicitations and never deviated from the agreement we made at setting
out. The consequence of this care was that at our arrival we had still
remaining sufficient for eleven days at our scanty allowance: and if we
had been so unfortunate as to have missed the Dutch settlement at Timor
we could have proceeded to Java where I was certain that every supply we
wanted could be procured.
Another disagreeable circumstance to which my situation exposed me was
the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting they would
have carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of Timor
without considering that landing among the natives at a distance from the
European settlement might have been as dangerous as among any other
Indians.
The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship was not more than
we should have consumed in five days had there been no necessity for
husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally have concluded that we
could have no other place of refuge than the Friendly Islands for it was
not likely they should imagine that, so poorly equipped as we were in
every respect, there could have been a possibility of our attempting to
return homewards: much less can they suspect that the account of their
villainy has already reached their native country.
When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa by the
Indians delaying their attack and that, with scarce anything to support
life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without shelter from
the inclemency of the weather; when I reflect that in an open boat with
so much stormy weather we escaped foundering, that not any of us were
taken off by disease, that we had the great good fortune to pass the
unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and at last
happily to meet with the most friendly and best of people to relieve our
distresses; I say when I reflect on all these wonderful escapes the
remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with resignation
and cheerfulness, the failure of an expedition the success of which I had
so much at heart and which was frustrated at a time when I was
congratulating myself on the fairest prospect of being able to complete
it in a manner that would fully have answered the intention of His
Majesty and the humane promoters of so benevolent a plan.
With respect to the preservation of our health during a course of 16 days
of heavy and almost continual rain I would recommend to everyone in a
similar situation the method we practised which is to dip their clothes
in the salt-water and wring them out as often as they become filled with
rain: it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of the greatest
service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry clothes than could
well be imagined. We had occasion to do this so often that at length all
our clothes were wrung to pieces: for, except the few days we passed on
the coast of New Holland, we were continually wet either with rain or
sea.
Thus through the assistance of Divine Providence we surmounted the
difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage and arrived safe in
an hospitable port where every necessary and comfort were administered to
us with a most liberal hand.