At the Island Huaheine.
A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.
Leave the Society Islands.
A Water-spout.
The Island Whytootackee discovered.
Anchor in Annamooka Road.
Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.
Sail from Annamooka.
The Chiefs detained on board.
Part friendly.
1789. April. Sunday 5.
We steered towards the island Huaheine, which we got sight of the next
morning. At noon we brought to near the entrance of Owharre harbour, it
not being my intention to anchor. We could see every part of the harbour
distinctly, but my attention was particularly directed to the spot where
Omai's house had stood, no part of which was now visible. It was near
three o'clock before any canoes came off to us, for the people on shore
imagined that the ship was coming into the harbour. The first that
arrived had three men in it, who brought a few coconuts. I enquired about
the chief or Earee Rahie; and one of the fellows with great gravity said
he was the Earee Rahie, and that he had come to desire I would bring the
ship into the harbour. I could not help laughing at his impudence:
however I gave him a few nails for his coconuts and he left us.
Immediately after a double canoe in which were ten men came alongside;
among them was a young man who recollected and called me by my name.
Several other canoes arrived with hogs, yams, and other provisions, which
we purchased. My acquaintance told me that he had lived with our friend
Omai. He confirmed the account that had already been given and informed
me that of all the animals which had been left with Omai the mare only
remained alive. He said that Omai and himself had often rode together,
and I observed that many of the islanders who came on board had the
representation of a man on horseback tattooed on their legs. After the
death of Omai his house was broken to pieces and the materials stolen.
The firearms were at Ulietea but useless. I enquired after the seeds and
plants and was informed that they were all destroyed except one tree, but
of what kind that was I could not make out from their description. I was
much pressed to take the ship into the harbour, and Omai's companion
requested me to let him go to England. When they found that I would not
stop among them they seemed jealous of our going to Ulietea, and it
appeared to give them some satisfaction when I told them that I should
not go near that island.
The canoes had left us and we were making sail when we discovered an
Indian in the water swimming towards the shore, which in all probability
he would not have been able to reach. We took him up and luckily another
canoe coming alongside we put him in her. The people of the canoe said
that the man was insane, but how he came to be swimming so far from the
land we could not conjecture. At six o'clock we made sail and ran all
night to the south-west and south-west by south, between the islands
Huaheine and Ulietea. The next morning I altered the course, steering
more to the westward for the Friendly Islands.
Thursday 9.
On the 9th at nine o'clock in the morning the weather became squally and
a body of thick black clouds collected in the east. Soon after a
water-spout was seen at no great distance from us, which appeared to
great advantage from the darkness of the clouds behind it. As nearly as I
could judge it was about two feet diameter at the upper part, and about
eight inches at the lower. I had scarce made these remarks when I
observed that it was advancing rapidly towards the ship. We immediately
altered our course and took in all the sails except the foresail, soon
after which it passed within ten yards of our stern, making a rustling
noise but without our feeling the least effect from its being so near us.
The rate at which it travelled I judged to be about ten miles per hour
going towards the west in the direction of the wind. In a quarter of an
hour after passing us it dispersed. I never was so near a water-spout
before: the connection between the column, which was higher than our
mastheads, and the water below was no otherwise visible than by the sea
being disturbed in a circular space of about six yards in diameter, the
centre of which, from the whirling of the water round it, formed a
hollow; and from the outer part of the circle the water was thrown up
with much force in a spiral direction, and could be traced to the height
of fifteen or twenty feet. At this elevation we lost sight of it and
could see nothing of its junction with the column above. It is impossible
to say what injury we should have suffered if it had passed directly over
us. Masts I imagine might have been carried away, but I do not apprehend
it would have endangered the loss of a ship.
Saturday 11.
As we sailed very near the track made in former voyages I had little
reason to expect that we should at this time make any new discovery:
nevertheless on the 11th at daylight land was seen to the
south-south-west at about five leagues distance, which appeared to be an
island of a moderate height. On the north part was a round hill: the
north-west part was highest and steep: the south-east part sloped off to
a low point.
The wind had been westerly since the preceding noon, and at the time we
saw the land the ship was standing to the north-west. At six we tacked to
the southward, and as we advanced in that direction discovered a number
of low keys, of which at noon we counted nine: they were all covered with
trees. The large island first seen had a most fruitful appearance, its
shore being bordered with flat land, on which grew innumerable coconut
and other trees; and the higher grounds beautifully interspersed with
lawns. The wind being light and unfavourable we endeavoured all day but
without success to get near the land. In the night we had a heavy squall
which obliged us to clew up all our sails and soon after it fell calm.
Sunday 12.
The winds were light and variable all day with calms. At two in the
afternoon we were within three miles of the southernmost key and could
see a number of people within the reefs. Shortly after a canoe, in which
were four men, paddled off to us and came alongside without showing any
signs of apprehension or surprise. I gave them a few beads and they came
into the ship. One man, who seemed to have an ascendancy over the others,
looked about the ship with some appearance of curiosity, but none of them
would venture to go below. They asked for some boiled fresh pork which
they saw in a bowl belonging to one of the seaman, and it was given them
to eat with boiled plantains. Being told that I was the Earee or chief of
the ship the principal person came and joined noses with me, and
presented to me a large mother of pearl shell, which hung with plaited
hair round his neck; this he fastened round my neck with signs of great
satisfaction.
They spoke the same language as at Otaheite, with very little variation
as far as I could judge. In a small vocabulary that I made whilst
conversing with these men only four words out of twenty-four differed
from the Otaheite. The name of the large island they told me was
Wytootackee, and the Earee was called Lomakkayah. They said that there
were no hogs, dogs, or goats upon the island, nor had they yams, or
tarro; but that plantains, coconuts, fowls, breadfruit, and avees, were
there in great abundance. Notwithstanding they said that no hogs were on
the island it was evident they had seen such animals; for they called
them by the same name as is given to them at Otaheite, which made me
suspect that they were deceiving me. However I ordered a young boar and
sow to be put into their canoe with some yams and tarro, as we could
afford to part with some of these articles. I also gave to each of them a
knife, a small adze, some nails, beads, and a looking-glass. The latter
they examined with great curiosity; but with the ironwork they appeared
to be acquainted; calling it aouree, which is the common name for iron
among the islands where it is known.
As they were preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took possession
of everything that I had given to the others. One of them showed some
signs of dissatisfaction, but after a little altercation they joined
noses and were reconciled. I now thought they were going to leave the
ship, but only two of them went into the canoe, the other two purposing
to stay all night with us and to have the canoe return for them in the
morning. I would have treated their confidence with the regard it merited
but it was impossible to say how far the ship might be driven from the
island in the night. This I explained to them and they reluctantly
consented to leave us. They were very solicitous that somebody from the
ship should go on shore with them, and just before they quitted us they
gave me a wooden spear which was the only thing, the paddles excepted,
they had brought with them in the canoe. It was a common longstaff
pointed with the toa wood.
The island of Wytootackee is about ten miles in circuit; its latitude
from 18 degrees 50 minutes to 18 degrees 54 minutes south, and longitude
200 degrees 19 minutes east. A group of small keys, eight in number, lie
to the south-east, four or five miles distant from Wytootackee and a
single one to the west-south-west; the southernmost of the group is in
latitude 18 degrees 58 minutes south. Variation of the compass 8 degrees
14 minutes east.
The people that came off to us did not differ in appearance from the
natives of Hervey's Islands, seen in Captain Cook's last voyage, though
much more friendly and inoffensive in their manners. They were tattooed
across the arms and legs, but not on the loins or posteriors, like the
people of Otaheite. From their knowledge of iron they have doubtless
communication with Hervey's Islands, which are not more than eighteen
leagues distant from them.
In the night a breeze sprang up from the south and we continued our
course to the westward.
Saturday 18.
On the 18th at sunset we saw Savage Island, and in the night passed by to
the southward of it.
Tuesday 21.
At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 21st we saw the island Caow from
the masthead, bearing north-west by west three-quarters west. This island
is a high mountain with a sharp-pointed top, and is the north-westernmost
of all the Friendly Islands. At noon we saw it very distinctly from the
deck, it being then nineteen leagues distant from us.
Thursday 23.
The wind being to the southward we could not fetch Annamooka, at which
island I intended to stop, before the evening of the 23rd, when we
anchored in the road in twenty-three fathoms, the extremes of Annamooka
bearing east by north and south by east, our distance from the shore
being half a league. In the middle of the day a canoe had come off to us
from the island Mango in which was a chief named Latoomy-lange, who dined
with me. Immediately on our anchoring several canoes came alongside with
yams and coconuts, but none of the natives offered to come on board
without first asking permission. As yet I had seen no person with whom I
could recollect to have been formerly acquainted. I made enquiries after
some of our old friends, particularly the chiefs, but I found myself not
sufficiently master of the language to obtain the information I wanted.
Friday 24.
Our station being inconvenient for watering at daylight we weighed, and
worked more to the eastward where we anchored in twenty-one fathoms; the
extremes of Annamooka bearing north 85 degrees east and south 33 degrees
west; the Sandy bay south 73 degrees east; our distance from the shore
half a league. Sounded all round the ship and found the ground to be a
coarse coral bottom, but with even soundings.
By this time some large sailing canoes were arrived from different
islands in the neighbourhood of Annamooka; and an old lame man named
Tepa, whom I had known in 1777 and immediately recollected, came on
board. Two other chiefs whose names were Noocaboo and Kunocappo were with
him. Tepa having formerly been accustomed to our manner of speaking their
language I found I could converse with him tolerably well. He informed me
that Poulaho, Feenow, and Tubow, were alive and at Tongataboo, and that
they would come hither as soon as they heard of our arrival, of which he
promised to send them immediate notice. He said that the cattle which we
had left at Tongataboo had all bred, and that the old ones were yet
living. He enquired after several people who were here with Captain Cook.
Being desirous to see the ship I took him and his companions below and
showed them the breadfruit and other plants, at seeing which they were
greatly surprised. I made each of them a present, and when they had
satisfied their curiosity I invited them to go on shore with me in the
ship's boat.
I took Nelson with me to procure some breadfruit plants, one of our stock
being dead and two or three others a little sickly. When we landed there
were about two hundred people on the beach, most of them women and
children. Tepa showed me a large boat-house which he told me we might
make use of, thinking we should have a party on shore as our ships had
formerly. I went with him in search of water but could find no better
place than where Captain Cook had watered, which is a quarter of a mile
inland from the east end of the beach. I next walked to the west point of
the bay where some plants and seeds had been sown by Captain Cook; and
had the satisfaction to see in a plantation close by about twenty fine
pineapple plants but no fruit, this not being the proper season. They
told me that they had eaten many of them, that they were fine and large,
and that at Tongataboo there were great numbers.
When I returned to the landing-place I was desired to sit down and a
present was brought me which consisted of some bundles of coconuts only.
This fell short of my expectations; however I appeared satisfied and
distributed beads and trinkets to the women and children near me.
Numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people disfigure
themselves, such as bloody temples, their heads deprived of most of the
hair, and what was worse almost all of them with the loss of some of
their fingers. Several fine boys, not above six years old, had lost both
their little fingers; and some of the men besides these had parted with
the middle finger of the right hand.
The chiefs went off with me to dinner, and I found a brisk trade carrying
on at the ship for yams; some plantains and breadfruit were likewise
brought on board but no hogs. In the afternoon more sailing canoes
arrived, some of which contained not less than ninety passengers. We
purchased eight hogs, some dogs, fowls, and shaddocks. Yams were in great
abundance, very fine and large; one yam weighed above forty-five pounds.
Among the people that came this afternoon were two of the name of Tubow,
which is a family of the first distinction among the Friendly Islands;
one of them was chief of the island Lefooga; with him and Tepa I went on
shore to see the wooding place. I found a variety of sizable trees but
the kind which I principally pitched upon was the Barringtonia of
Forster. I acquainted Tepa with my intention of sending people to cut
wood, which meeting with his approbation, we parted.
Saturday 25.
On the 25th at daylight the wooding and watering parties went on shore. I
had directed them not to cut the kind of tree* which, when Captain Cook
wooded here in 1777, blinded for a time many of the woodcutters. They had
not been an hour on shore before one man had an axe stolen from him and
another an adze. Tepa was applied to, who got the axe restored but the
adze was not recovered. In the evening we completed wooding.
(*Footnote. Excoecaria agallocha Linn. Sp. Pl. Called in the Malay
language caju mata boota, which signifies the the tree that wounds the
eyes.)
Sunday 26.
In the morning Nelson went on shore to get a few plants but, no principal
chief being among the people, he was insulted, and a spade taken from
him. A boat's grapnel was likewise stolen from the watering party. Tepa
recovered the spade for us, but the crowd of natives was become so great,
by the number of canoes that had arrived from different islands, that it
was impossible to do anything where there was such a multitude of people
without a chief of sufficient authority to command the whole. I therefore
ordered the watering party to go on board and determined to sail, for I
could not discover that any canoe had been sent to acquaint the chiefs of
Tongataboo of our being here. For some time after the thefts were
committed the chiefs kept away, but before noon they came on board.
At noon we unmoored, and at one o'clock got under sail. The two Tubows,
Kunocappo, Latoomy-lange, and another chief, were on board, and I
acquainted them that unless the grapnel was returned they must remain in
the ship. They were surprised and not a little alarmed. Canoes were
immediately despatched after the grapnel, which I was informed could not
possibly be brought to the ship before the next day, as those who had
stolen it immediately sailed with their prize to another island.
Nevertheless I detained them till sunset, when their uneasiness and
impatience increased to such a degree that they began to beat themselves
about the face and eyes and some of them cried bitterly. As this distress
was more than the grapnel was worth, and I had no reason to imagine that
they were privy to or in any manner concerned in the theft, I could not
think of detaining them longer and called their canoes alongside. I then
told them they were at liberty to go, and made each of them a present of
a hatchet, a saw, with some knives, gimblets, and nails. This unexpected
present and the sudden change in their situation affected them not less
with joy than they had before been with apprehension. They were unbounded
in their acknowledgments and I have little doubt but that we parted
better friends than if the affair had never happened.
We stood to the northward all night with light winds.
Monday 27.
And on the next day the 27th at noon were between the islands Tofoa and
Kotoo. Latitude observed 19 degrees 18 minutes south.
Thus far the voyage had advanced in a course of uninterrupted prosperity,
and had been attended with many circumstances equally pleasing and
satisfactory. A very different scene was now to be experienced. A
conspiracy had been formed which was to render all our past labour
productive only of extreme misery and distress. The means had been
concerted and prepared with so much secrecy and circumspection that no
one circumstance appeared to occasion the smallest suspicion of the
impending calamity.