Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
A Sheep brought from Ulietea.
Heavy Storm.
Death of the Surgeon.
Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.
1788. November.
After dinner I went on shore and, while I was at the tents, from having
exposed myself too much in the sun, I was taken ill and continued in much
pain for near an hour. This was soon known among the natives and I was
exceedingly surprised to see Tinah and all the principal people, both men
and women, collecting round me and offering their assistance. For this
short illness I was made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the
attention and appearance of affection in these kind people.
Friday 14.
This morning I had numberless enquiries after my health. The weather
being fine I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to accompany me to
Tettaha in order to enquire after the cow; and soon after sunrise we set
off in the launch. Tettaha is nearly four leagues from Point Venus. On
our arrival Tinah sent a man to give notice of our visit. The chief of
the district, whose name was Teppahoo, did not appear, but sent a
messenger to demand if I came only to see the cow or to take it away with
me. In answer to this I sent assurances that I only desired to see it,
and the chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect. I was then
desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the westward. In
our way Tinah made me stop among some fishing canoes to purchase fish for
him, which he eat raw with salt water for sauce. When we arrived at the
landing-place a great number of people had collected, and soon after
Teppahoo arrived. Oreepyah and I went with him about a quarter of a mile,
when I was shown one of the most beautiful heifers I ever saw. I asked if
they had any more but they all said there was no other than a bull at
Itteah, as before mentioned. I could not refrain from expressing my
displeasure at the destruction and the foolish separation of these fine
animals. I had shared with Captain Cook in the trouble of this business
and had been equally anxious for the success.
The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as the country
about Matavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to detain me I made a
present to Teppahoo and, after inviting him to visit me on board the
ship, which he promised to do, I took leave. Tinah had remained all this
time in the boat. I observed that no respect was shown to him at this
place, nor was he able to procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise
than by purchasing it. The heifer being here is a proof of this district
not having been friendly to the people of Matavai and Oparre.
In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to refresh at
Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time we arrived at the ship. I
kept my fellow travellers on board to supper and they did not fail to
remind me of the king's health.
Monday 17.
Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued increasing.
This morning I sent twelve on board, in pots, to discover where they
would thrive the best, the air being more temperate on board the ship
than on shore. While I was absent from the ship Teppahoo had been on
board and left a hog as a present for me.
After dinner today Tinah, who was my constant visitor, left the table
sooner than usual. When he was gone Oreepyah, his brother, and Oedidde,
told me a piece of scandal, which had been before hinted to me but which
till now I had not heard of with certainty: this was that Iddeah, Tinah's
wife, kept a gallant, who was a towtow, or servant, and the very person
who always fed Tinah at dinner: and this was so far from being without
Tinah's knowledge or consent that they said it was by his desire. They
added many other circumstances and, as I appeared to doubt, they took
several opportunities in the course of the day of mentioning it to other
people, who all declared it was true.
Tuesday 18.
This afternoon I saw Teppahoo and invited him on board: before we parted
I bargained with him for the heifer which he promised to bring in five
days. My intention was that if I got the heifer I would endeavour to
purchase the bull at Itteah: but if that could not be done then I could
send the heifer as a present to the possessor of the bull, which might
equally well answer my purpose.
It has been mentioned that Tinah had a place in my cabin to keep those
things which I gave him as being more secure on board than on shore. I
had remarked lately that his hoard seemed to diminish the more I
endeavoured to increase it: at length I discovered that Iddeah kept
another hoard in the master's cabin, which she regularly enriched from
her husband's whenever I made him a present, apprehending that I should
cease giving when I saw Tinah's locker full. At his request I set the
carpenters to work to make him a chest large enough for himself and wife
to sleep on. Captain Cook had formerly given him such a chest but it had
been taken from him by the Eimeo people.
Friday 21.
This forenoon I received a message from Teppahoo to acquaint me the
heifer was brought to Matavai. I immediately went on shore and found that
he had been as good as his word. The purchase money was paid, which
consisted of a shirt, a hatchet, a spike nail, a knife, a pair of
scissors, a gimlet, and file; to which was added a small quantity of
loaf-sugar. Teppahoo appeared well pleased with his bargain; and I sent
the heifer to Poeeno's residence near which was plenty of grass.
In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva, the most extraordinary part of
which was an oration, with some ceremonies in compliment to us. Twelve
men were divided into four ranks, with two women in the front; behind
them all stood a priest who made a speech which lasted ten minutes and
which was listened to with some attention. During this the picture of
Captain Cook, which had been brought for that purpose, was placed by my
side. When the priest left off speaking a piece of white cloth was
wrapped round the picture and another piece round me. The priest then
spoke again for a short time, and an old man placed a piece of plaited
coconut leaf at my feet; the same was done to Tinah, and one piece was
put under the picture. After this the dancing began, which was in the
same style that we had already seen.
The head of the ship was the figure of a woman, and not ill carved. As we
were painting the ship's upper works I directed this figure to be painted
in colours, with which the islanders were much pleased. Not only the men
but the women desired me to bring English women when I came again. Today
Oedidde, thinking I was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me
about Iddeah, mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing, at
which she laughed, but said he did ill to tell me of it. However it was
evident she was not much offended for they were both very much diverted
in discoursing upon the subject.
I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have connection with the
wives of each other, particularly elder brothers with the wives of their
younger brothers, which is generally allowed and no offence taken: but if
any person not belonging to the family endeavours at the same intimacy it
is resented as an injury. Inclination seems to be the only binding law of
marriage at Otaheite.
As I purposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to make
observations I desired Tinah to order a house to be brought there for me,
which was done and fixed in half an hour, being only a light shed
supported by posts.
Monday 24.
Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinah was going
to leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his dinner. He told me
that his mother, Oberreeroah, was arrived from the island Tethuroa, and
begged that I would send for her in the morning and take care of her till
he returned, which I willingly promised.
Tuesday 25.
This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the afternoon
with Oberreeroah and two women, her servants. As she was old and
corpulent it was with difficulty that we helped her up the ship's side.
As soon as she was in the ship she sat down on the gangway and, clasping
my knees in her arms, expressed her pleasure at seeing me by a flood of
tears. Her servants then produced three pieces of cloth which, with a
large hog, some breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts, she had brought as a
present. As she was fatigued by her journey she wished to remain on board
all night, and I directed accommodations to be prepared, which was done
with little trouble as nothing more was necessary than a mat and some
cloth spread on the deck. She had with her a favourite cat, bred from one
that had been given her by Captain Cook. She told me all the misfortunes
that had befallen her son and friends since Captain Cook left Otaheite.
All the accounts agree in some of the cattle being now alive at the
island Eimeo: in the number they differ but that there were eight is the
least account.
Wednesday 26.
In the morning, Oberreeroah being desirous to go on shore, I made her a
present of several things, which she did not care to take with her then,
but requested that I would keep them safe for her. Only Moannah and
Poeeno dined with me today. They told me that Tinah and his brother
Oreepyah were not on good terms together, and it was imagined that they
would fight as soon as the ship was gone. I had observed a coolness
between them, and had at times endeavoured to make them more cordial, but
with very little effect. Their quarrel has arisen from a disagreement
between their wives.
In the afternoon a canoe from Ulietea arrived in which was an Earee or
chief of that island, who is a nephew to Oberreeroah. He brought a sheep
with him: the poor animal was infected with the mange and in very poor
condition. The climate had not as far as I could judge altered the
quality of the wool, with which he was well covered except a part about
the shoulders. I imagine this animal to be the English ewe left by
Captain Cook. The owner assured me that there were ten sheep at Huaheine;
the truth of which I much doubted. I was surprised and rather mortified
to find that he set so little value on this as to let me have it, at the
first word, for a small adze. I sent it to be kept at Poeeno's with the
heifer.
Friday 28.
Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai and, from appearances which I have
no reason to mistrust, were sincerely glad to see me again after their
short absence. They brought as usual a present of a hog and fruit. This
morning there was an eclipse of the sun, but the weather was so cloudy
that I had only an opportunity of observing the end of the eclipse, which
was at 19 hours 43 minutes 53 seconds.
Saturday 29.
I sent a man to shear the ewe, by which a remedy could more easily be
applied to cure the disease with which it was infected. The garden made
near the tents was not in a prosperous condition: most of the melons and
cucumbers were destroyed by insects; and the soil being sandy was not
favourable to the other seeds. I therefore chose another spot of ground
farther from the seaside and had an assortment of seeds sown.
December. Monday 1.
In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from the tents. On
landing in the morning neither Tinah nor any of his family came near me,
being, I was informed, afraid of my displeasure. As the loss was not
great I immediately sent to assure them that I had no anger except
against the person who committed the theft. In consequence of this
message Tinah and some of the other chiefs came to the tents and promised
that they would exert themselves to discover the thief and get the rudder
restored. This was the first theft of any consequence that had been
committed since the tents were on shore, and my suspicions fell chiefly
on the people who were here from some of the other islands. Tinah had
just begun to build a house for himself and I promised that our
carpenters should assist him. Whydooah, the youngest brother of Tinah,
had lately been one of my constant visitors and seemed to have left off
his former custom of getting drunk with the Ava. He was esteemed one of
their best warriors; and I was told that in the quarrel with the people
of Eimeo he killed Maheine the chief of that island.
Friday 5.
The weather for some time past had been very unsettled. This afternoon
the wind blew fresh from the north-west, which occasioned the sea to
break very high across the Dolphin bank; and in the night such a heavy
broken sea came into the bay that we were obliged to batten all the
hatchways down, and to keep everybody upon deck all night though the rain
came down in torrents. The ship rolled in a most violent manner.
Saturday 6.
In the morning the wind increasing and, there being no possibility of
putting to sea, we struck yards and topmasts and trusted to our anchors.
The river swelled so much with the rain that the point of land on which
the tents stood became an island; and to preserve the breadfruit plants
from being endangered the people were obliged to cut a passage for the
river through a part of the beach at a distance from the tents. The sea
broke very high on the beach; nevertheless a canoe put off and to my
surprise Tinah, his wife, and Moannah made their way good through the
surf and came on board to see me. There was no other person in the canoe
for the weather did not admit of useless passengers: each of them had a
paddle which they managed with great activity and skill. These kind
people embraced me with many tears and expressed their apprehensions for
the safety of the ship. Towards noon however the sea abated considerably,
but the wind continued to blow strong from the north-west. At sunset
Iddeah went on shore but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.
Sunday 7.
The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so much
moderated that I no longer considered our situation to be alarming. At
noon Iddeah returned to the ship with a large hog and a supply of
breadfruit and coconuts; and soon after she and Tinah left the ship,
having exacted a promise from me that if the weather was moderate I would
go on shore in the morning and visit their parents and sister who, they
told me, had been much alarmed on our account. I received a visit
likewise from Poeeno and his wife. This woman had always shown great
regard for us; and now, on our meeting, before I could be aware of it,
she began beating her head violently with a shark's tooth so that her
face was covered with blood in an instant. I put a stop to this as soon
as I could, and with the drying up of the blood her agitation subsided.
This ceremony is frequently performed upon occasions either of joy or
grief. Her husband said that if any accident happened to the ship I
should live with him and that they would cut down trees and build me
another ship.
From this sample of the weather and the information of the natives I was
convinced it would not be safe to continue in Matavai Bay much longer;
and I determined to get everything ready for sailing as speedily as I
could.
Monday 8.
The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore where I was
received by Oberreeroah, and several other friends with great affection.
The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been carefully
covered from the spray of the sea: some were in a dormant state and
others were striking out young shoots. Nelson thought that it was better
to refrain a few days from taking them on board; I therefore consented to
defer it. He was of opinion that the plants could be propagated from the
roots only, and I directed some boxes to be filled as we could stow them
where no others could be placed.
Tuesday 9.
This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired, many of
the natives assisting, one of them, a fine boy about ten years old, was
thrown down and a roller which was placed under the boat went over him.
The surgeon being ill I sent off for his assistant. Fortunately no limb
was broken nor did he receive any material injury. The surgeon had been a
long time ill, the effect of intemperance and indolence. He had latterly
scarce ever stirred out of his cabin but was not apprehended to be in a
dangerous state; nevertheless this evening he appeared to be so much
worse than usual that it was thought necessary to remove him to some
place where he could have more air; but to no effect for he died in an
hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very hard and was so averse
to exercise that he never would be prevailed on to take half a dozen
turns upon deck at a time in the course of the voyage.
Wednesday 10.
As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned it to Tinah, who
said there would be no objection but that it would be necessary to ask
his father's consent first; which he undertook to do and immediately left
me for that purpose. By this circumstance it appears that, though the
eldest son of an Earee succeeds to the title and honours of the father as
soon as he is born, yet a considerable portion of authority remains with
the father even after the son is of age. When Tinah returned I went with
him to the spot intended for the burial place, taking with us two men to
dig the grave; but on our arrival I found the natives had already begun
it. Tinah asked me if they were doing right? "There," says he, "the sun
rises and there it sets." The idea that the grave should be east and west
I imagine they learnt from the Spaniards, as the captain of one of their
ships was buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not the
information from anybody belonging to our ship; for I believe we should
not have thought of it. The grave however was marked out very exactly. At
four in the afternoon the body was interred: the chiefs and many of the
natives came to see the ceremony and showed great attention during the
service. Some of the chiefs were very inquisitive about what was to be
done with the surgeon's cabin on account of apparitions. They said when a
man died in Otaheite and was carried to the Tupapow that as soon as night
came he was surrounded by spirits, and if any person went there by
himself they would devour him: therefore they said that not less than two
people together should go into the surgeon's cabin for some time. I did
not endeavour to dissuade them from this belief otherwise than by
laughing and letting them know that we had no such apprehensions.
In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of and I
appointed Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward the surgeon's mate to do duty as
surgeon.
Friday 12.
I went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre and found two
formed by the reefs. The westernmost is the most convenient for sailing
in or out but is not well sheltered from a north-west wind or sea. This
harbour is called by the natives Taowne: it is about a league and a half
distant from Point Venus and may be known by a remarkable mountain,
called by the natives Wawry, which bears south-south-east from the
entrance.
The easternmost harbour is called Toahroah. It is small but as secure as
a reef harbour can well be. It is about three miles distant from Point
Venus. The chief objection to this harbour is the difficulty of getting
out with the common tradewind, the entrance being on the east side, not
more than one hundred yards wide and the depth without inconvenient for
warping. On the south side of the entrance is a Morai: the reef side is
to be kept on board and a lookout to be kept from aloft, whence the shoal
water is better discerned than from the deck.
Sunday 14.
This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the principal natives
attended and behaved with great decency. Some of the women at one time
betrayed an inclination to laugh at our general responses; but on my
looking at them they appeared much ashamed. After the service I was asked
if no offering was to be made for the Eatua to eat.
The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time appeared
quite settled, so that I was under no apprehensions of danger from
continuing a little longer in Matavai bay.