Departure from England.
Arrival at Tenerife.
Sail from thence.
Arrival off Cape Horn.
Severity of the Weather.
Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.
1787. December. Sunday 23.
On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from Spithead and,
passing through the Needles, directed our course down channel with a
fresh gale of wind at east. In the afternoon one of the seamen, in
furling the main-top-gallant-sail, fell off the yard and was so fortunate
as to save himself by catching hold of the main-top-mast-stay in his
fall. At night the wind increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.
Tuesday 25.
It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our Christmas
with cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a severe storm of wind
from the eastward, which continued till the 29th, in the course of which
we suffered greatly. One sea broke away the spare yards and spars out of
the starboard main chains. Another heavy sea broke into the ship and
stove all the boats. Several casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck
were broke loose and washed overboard, and it was not without great
difficulty and risk that we were able to secure the boats from being
washed away entirely.
Saturday 29.
On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north and longitude
14 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and the weather became
fair. Besides other mischief done to us by the storm, a large quantity of
our bread was damaged and rendered useless, for the sea had stove in our
stern and filled the cabin with water. From this time to our arrival at
Tenerife we had moderate weather and winds mostly from the northward.
1788. January.
January 4.
This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the Mauritius.
Saturday 5. Tenerife.
The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of Tenerife
bearing west-south-west half west about twelve leagues distant. It was
covered with a thick haze except the north-westernmost part which is a
remarkable headland, resembling a horse's head, the ears very distinct.
To the eastward of this head* lie two round rocks, the northern boundary
of Tenerife. I had a good observation at noon by which I make the
latitude of the two rocks 28 degrees 44 minutes north and their longitude
by our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. To the southward of these
and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four leagues farther to
the southward the coast inclines towards the west to the road of Santa
Cruz, where we anchored at half-past nine on Sunday morning in
twenty-five fathoms water, and moored along shore in the same depth, with
the cupola tower of the church of St. Francis bearing west half north one
mile, the east part of the road east by north, the castle on the south
point south-west, and the west part of the Grand Canary south-south-east.
A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, an American brig, and several other
vessels, were lying here.
(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the compass.)
As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr. Christian) to
wait on the governor and to acquaint him I had put in to obtain
refreshments and to repair the damages we had sustained in bad weather.
To this I had a very polite answer from the governor, * that I should be
supplied with whatever the island afforded. I had also directed the
officer to acquaint him that I would salute, provided an equal number of
guns were to be returned but, as I received an extraordinary answer to
this part of my message, purporting that his excellency did not return
the same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this ceremony
was omitted.
(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)
During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain Adams) and
shortly afterwards several officers came on board from his excellency to
compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the ship was moored I went on
shore and paid my respects to him.
Monday 7.
On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with the utmost
dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs. Collogan and sons,
the contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I also got leave of the
governor for Mr. Nelson to range the hills and examine the country in
search of plants and natural curiosities.
As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for everything I
wanted to be brought off by the shore boats, and agreed to give five
shillings per ton for water. Very good wine was bought at ten pounds per
pipe, the contract price; but the superior quality was fifteen pounds;
and some of this was not much inferior to the best London Madeira. I
found this was an unfavourable season for other refreshments: Indian
corn, potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very scarce and double the
price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult to be procured
and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence farthing per pound. The
corn was three current dollars per fanega, which is full five shillings
per bushel; and biscuit at twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds.
Poultry was so scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is
therefore not a place for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable
price at this time of the year, wine excepted; but from March to November
supplies are plentiful, particularly fruit, of which at this time we
could procure none except a few dried figs and some bad oranges.
NAUTICAL REMARKS.
During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east winds and calms
and small drizzling rain in the night. The thermometer from 66 to 69
degrees at noon in the shade. I could make no lunar observations for the
longitude, but by the help of the timekeeper I have computed the
situation of the town of Santa Cruz to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north
latitude and 16 degrees 18 minutes west longitude. I observed the
variation by two compasses to be 20 degrees 1 minute west: this much
exceeded what I could have imagined; for in 1776 I observed it only 14
degrees 40 minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in eleven
years: and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the
exact deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual variation
which never can be accurately ascertained unless the observations are
made always in one spot and with the same compass.
Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly within the
limits of the tradewind that navigators generally steer to it from the
eastward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the east side of the island, at
the end of a range of craggy hills, barren and very lofty, along with you
sail west by south by compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable
until near the shore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty
fathoms to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very steep and gives but
little time to sound; for which reason it should be done effectually with
a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near in before a stranger is aware of
it: he will likewise too soon expect to find bottom, owing to the great
deception of the adjacent high land. To obviate these difficulties it is
necessary to observe that while a town which lies some distance to the
southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the south part of the
road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no anchorage; but
after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank. The church bearing west
or west by south and the south point of the road south-west half south to
south-west by west is a good situation for anchoring: the depth about
twenty-five fathoms. The distance from the shore will be three quarters
of a mile; and the southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half
or quarter point of the compass farther out than the south point of the
road.
The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for which
reason vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their cables. This
precaution, besides being useful in that particular, they think makes
them ride more easy when there is much sea setting into the road, which,
with the wind any way to the southward of east or at south-west, must be
very considerable; it is therefore usual to moor with four anchors,
though more than two are scarce ever of use. Mooring is however advisable
if a ship is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the
better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.
The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our own boats,
at least without great risk; but there is a very fine pier on which
people may land without difficulty if there is not much swell in the
road. To this pier the water is conveyed by pipes for the use of
shipping, and for which all merchant-ships pay.
There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower class of
people which is not anywhere so common as among the Spanish and
Portuguese settlements. To alleviate these evils the present governor of
Tenerife has instituted a most charitable society which he takes the
trouble to superintend; and by considerable contributions a large airy
dwelling that contains one hundred and twenty poor girls and as many men
and boys has been built and endowed with a sufficiency of land round it,
not only for all present purposes but for enlarging the building for more
objects of charity as their funds increase. I had the honour to be shown
by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they call it) where there
appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness and content. The
decency and neatness of the dress of the young females, with the order in
which they were arranged at their spinning-wheels and looms in an
extensive airy apartment, was admirable. A governess inspected and
regulated all their works, which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all
colours, coarse linens, and tapes; all which were managed and brought to
perfection by themselves from the silk and flax in their first state;
even the dying of the colours is performed by them. These girls are
received for five years, at the end of which they are at liberty to
marry, and have for their portions their wheel and loom, with a sum of
money proportioned to the state of the fund, which is assisted by the
produce of their labour, and at this time was estimated at two thousand
dollars per annum.
The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed in coarser
work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if they become infirm
they spend the remainder of their days here comfortably and under a
watchful inspector who attends them in the same manner as the governess
does the girls. They are all visited every day by the governor, and a
clergyman attends them every evening. By this humane institution a number
of people are rendered useful and industrious in a country where the
poor, from the indulgence of the climate, are too apt to prefer a life of
inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, to obtaining the comforts
of life by industry and labour.
The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were estimated at
between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their annual export of wine is
twenty thousand pipes and of brandy half that quantity. Vessels are
frequently here from St. Eustatia, and from thence a great quantity of
Tenerife wine is carried to the different parts of the West Indies, under
the name of Madeira.
Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other Canaries: the
inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive supplies from the Grand
Canary; but their vineyards here are said to be greatly superior. Their
produce of corn, though exceedingly good, is not sufficient for their
consumption; and owing to this the Americans have an advantageous trade
here for their flour and grain, and take wine in return.
The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each way, built in
a regular manner, and the houses in general large and airy, but the
streets are very ill paved. I am told that they are subject to few
diseases; but if any epidemic distemper breaks out it is attended with
the most fatal consequences, particularly the smallpox, the bad effects
of which they now endeavour to counteract by inoculation. For this reason
they are very circumspect in admitting ships to have communication with
the shore without bills of health.
A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith, master, bound
to Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came into the road the day
before we sailed. She had suffered much by the bad weather but, having
brought no bill of health, the governor would not allow any person to
come on shore unless I could vouch for them that no epidemic disease
raged in England at the time they sailed, which I was able to do, it
being nearly at the same time that I left the land; and by that means
they had the governor's permission to receive the supplies they wanted
without being obliged to perform quarantine.
Thursday 10.
Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th we sailed
with the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in good health and
spirits.
I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the charge of the
third watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the mates. I have always
considered this as a desirable regulation when circumstances will admit
of it on many accounts; and am persuaded that unbroken rest not only
contributes much towards the health of a ship's company but enables them
more readily to exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency.
As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I ordered
everybody to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also directed the
water for drinking to be filtered though dripstones that I had bought at
Tenerife for that purpose.
In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a round lump
of land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land, has at a distance
the appearance of a separate island. By our run from the bay of Santa
Cruz I make the latitude of the south end of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6
minutes north.
We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind at
south-east. The next morning we could see nothing of the land. I now made
the ship's company acquainted with the intent of the voyage and, having
been permitted to hold out this encouragement to them, I gave assurances
of the certainty of promotion to everyone whose endeavours should merit
it.
The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly from the
southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed amongst the people
and some dolphins were caught.
Thursday 17.
On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and continued steady in
that quarter till the 25th on which day at noon we were in 3 degrees 54
minutes north. As the cloudiness of the sky gave us reason to expect much
rain we prepared the awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving
water, in which we were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting
with the south-east tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and
sultry with calms, and light variable winds generally from the southward.
Tuesday 29.
On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught seven
hundred gallons of water.
Thursday 31.
On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found a current
setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles in the
twenty-four hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in the shade, and 81
1/2 degrees at the surface of the sea, so that the air and the water were
within half a degree of the same temperature. At eight o'clock in the
evening we observed a violent rippling in the sea about half a mile to
the north-west of us which had very much the appearance of breakers. This
I imagine to have been occasioned by a large school (or multitude) of
fish as it was exactly in the track the ship had passed, so that if any
real shoal had been there we must have seen it at the close of the
evening when a careful lookout was always kept. However if it had
appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should certainly have tacked to
avoid it. To such appearances I attribute the accounts of many shoals
within the tropics which cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our
latitude at this time was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19
degrees 43 minutes west. The next day we had more of these appearances
from the number of schools of fish by which the ship was surrounded.
February. Saturday 2.
This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too great a
distance to distinguish what she was.
Monday 4.
Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our empty water
casks. So much wet weather, with the closeness of the air, covered
everything with mildew. The ship was aired below with fires and
frequently sprinkled with vinegar; and every little interval of dry
weather was taken advantage of to open all the hatchways, and clean the
ship, and to have all the people's wet things washed and dried.
With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2 1/2 degrees
in twelve days; at the end of which time we were relieved by the
south-east tradewind which we fell in with on the 6th at noon in latitude
1 degree 21 minutes north and longitude 20 degrees 42 minutes west.
Thursday 7.
The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in longitude 21
degrees 50 minutes west. The weather became fine and the south-east
tradewind was fresh and steady, with which we kept a point free from the
wind and got to the southward at a good rate.
The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks, properly
prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin: this experiment
we afterwards found answered exceedingly well.
Saturday 16.
On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The next day we
came up with her and found her to be the British Queen, Simon Paul,
master, from London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope on the whale-fishery.
She sailed from Falmouth the 5th of December, eighteen days before I left
Spithead. By this ship I wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out
of sight astern.
Monday 18.
In the course of this day's run the variation changed from west to east.
According to our observations the true and magnetic meridians coincided
in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 15
minutes west. At noon we were in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes south and
longitude 31 degrees 23 minutes west. In our advances towards the south
the wind had gradually veered round to the east and was at this time at
east-north-east. The weather after crossing the Line had been fine and
clear, but the air so sultry as to occasion great faintness, the
quicksilver in the thermometer in the daytime standing at between 81 and
83 degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage through the
northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high south
declination and the weather being generally fine till we lost the
north-east tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded the horizon that
no object could be seen except at a very small distance. The haze
commonly cleared away at sunset and gathered again at sunrise. Between
the north-east and south-east tradewinds the calms and rains, if of long
continuance, are very liable to produce sickness unless great attention
is paid to keeping the ship clean and wholesome by giving all the air
possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing the
people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we frequently
wetted with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were used as
ventilators. With these endeavours to secure health we passed the low
latitudes without a single complaint.
The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I ever found
them so in the middle of the ocean. However from the channel to the
southward as far as Madeira there is generally a current setting to the
south-south-east.
Thursday 21.
On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east but at too
great a distance to distinguish of what country.
Friday 22.
The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west so that we
could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. Our latitude at noon
was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude 36 degrees 29 minutes west.
Variation of the compass three degrees east.
Saturday 23.
Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers of rain of
which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The next day we caught a
shark and five dolphins.
Tuesday 26.
We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for encountering
the weather that was to be expected in a high latitude. Our latitude at
noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south, longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes
west. Variation 7 degrees 13 minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind
being westerly and blowing strong in squalls, some butterflies and other
insects like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds
were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of Brazil at
this time was above 100 leagues.
March. Sunday 2.
In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, divine service
was performed according to my usual custom on this day. I gave to Mr.
Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed to take charge of the
third watch, a written order to act as lieutenant.
Saturday 8.
We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and longitude 52
degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we several times tried for
soundings without finding bottom, though considerably to the westward of
Captain Wallis' track, who had soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in
latitude 35 degrees 40 minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes
west. This day we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but
did not find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water,
we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of line,
by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the rate of a mile
and a half per hour. By the noon observation however we were eighteen
miles to the southward of our reckoning. In the afternoon we saw a turtle
floating and, not having much wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it;
but it was found to be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding
upon it.
The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there being a
variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight degrees. That the
people might not suffer by their own negligence I gave orders for their
light tropical clothing to be put by, and made them dress in a manner
more suited to a cold climate. I had provided for this before I left
England by giving directions for such clothes to be purchased as were
necessary.
Monday 10.
In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms depth; our
latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55 degrees 40 minutes
west. This I conclude to have been near the edge of the bank for, the
wind being at south-south-west, we stood towards the south-east; and
after running fourteen miles in that direction we could find no bottom
with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards
the west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into soundings.
The next day we saw a great number of whales of an immense size that had
two spout-holes on the back of the head. Upon a complaint made to me by
the master I found it necessary to punish Matthew Quintal, one of the
seamen, with two dozen lashes for insolence and mutinous behaviour.
Before this I had not had occasion to punish any person on board.
Wednesday 12.
On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the grains. Everyone
eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked that no part was wasted.
Friday 14.
On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark, and passed
part of a dead whale that had been left by some whalers after they had
taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two strange sail. The next day at
noon our latitude was 43 degrees 6 minutes south and longitude 58 degrees
42 minutes west. Had soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine
greenish sand. Saw two hawks.
Sunday 16.
On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west standing to the
northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes south. We continued
running to the southward keeping in soundings.
Wednesday 19.
On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty leagues of Port
Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the north-west with thick foggy
weather I did not attempt to make the land. We passed a good deal of
rock-weed and saw many whales, and albatrosses and other seabirds.
Thursday 20.
On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes south and
longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon the wind, which
had for some time past been northerly, suddenly shifted to the
west-south-west and blew hard.
Sunday 23.
We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two o'clock in the
morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del Fuego bearing south-east.
At nine in the forenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of
Tierra del Fuego. Observed the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east.
The wind being unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to
the eastward of Staten Land than to attempt passing through Straits le
Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very different
appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts, though the interior
parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is of a moderate height and, at
the distance we were from it, had not an unpromising appearance. The
coast of Staten Land near the Straits is mountainous and craggy, and
remarkable for its high peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening
which cannot well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the
different appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the
Straits known.
I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that we might
have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to the heavy squalls
that came off from the land. At noon Cape St. Anthony bore south and the
westernmost of New Year's Isles south-east one-quarter south, five or six
leagues. Latitude observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64
degrees 4 minutes west.
The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in; but the
lateness of the season and the people being in good health determined me
to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment until we should reach Otaheite.
At two o'clock in the afternoon the easternmost of New Year's Isles,
where Captain Cook observed the latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes
south, bore from us south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New
Year's harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and
mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as the
access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies south-south-east by
compass from the north-east part of the easternmost of the New Year's
Islands.
About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed the
separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken notice of, which
has the appearance of Staten Land being there divided into two islands.
At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six leagues. The
land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged as near New Year's
Harbour. The night coming on I could get no good view of the coast near
the Cape; and at daylight next morning we were at too great a distance.
Monday 24.
We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at west-south-west
and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St. John bore north-west ten
leagues distant. Soon after we lost sight of the land.
From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the timekeeper, I
make the longitude of the west side of Straits le Maire 64 degrees 48
minutes west; the easternmost of the New Year's isles 63 degrees 52
minutes west; and the longitude of Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes
west.
In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees south the
ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by currents; and from
the latitude of 48 degrees south to Staten Land the currents set us to
the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes; which I imagine to have been
occasioned by an indraught into the Straits of Magellan.
From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the month we were
struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.
Monday 31.
But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the north-north-east and
made us entertain great hopes that we should be able to accomplish our
passage round the Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in
latitude 60 degrees 1 minute south and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west
longitude, which is 8 degrees 26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St.
John. This flattering appearance was not of long continuance: in the
night the wind became variable and next day settled again in the west and
north-west with very bad weather.
April. Wednesday 2.
On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all night from
the north-west, came round to the south-west and increased to a heavy
gale. At six in the morning the storm exceeded what I had ever met with
before; and the sea, from the frequent shifting of the wind, running in
contrary directions, broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very
well under a main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe
squalls of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.
Friday 4.
On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate. With so much
bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant fire night and day;
and one of the watch always attended to dry the people's wet clothes: and
this I have no doubt contributed as much to their health as to their
comfort.
Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses and two
beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and pintada. A great many
of these were frequently about the wake of the ship, which induced the
people to float a line with hooks baited to endeavour to catch them and
their attempts were successful. The method they used was to fasten the
bait a foot or two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk
when the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.
Sunday 6.
On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the 9th with
the wind veering between the north-west and south-west; of which we were
able to take advantage.
Monday 7.
On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; our latitude
60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes west.
Wednesday 9.
On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes south and
our longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is farther to the west
than we had yet been. The weather was now unfavourable again, blowing
strong from the westward with a high sea.
On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about the size of
bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this high latitude.
Saturday 12.
The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now began to
complain and required to be pumped every hour; which was no more than we
had reason to expect from such a continuance of gales of wind and high
seas. The decks also became so leaky that it was obliged to allot the
great cabin, of which I made little use except in fine weather, to those
people who had wet berths to hang their hammocks in, and by this means
the between decks was less crowded.
Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they hung, and
when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck they were put in the
cabin; so that the between decks were cleaned daily and aired with fires
if the hatchways could not be opened. With all this bad weather we had
the additional mortification to find at the end of every day that we were
losing ground; for notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on
the most advantageous tacks (which if the weather had been at all
moderate would have sufficiently answered our purpose) yet the greater
part of the time we were doing little better than drifting before the
wind.
Sunday 13.
Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught; and for the
first time since we left Staten Land we saw some whales. This morning,
owing to the violent motion of the ship, the cook fell and broke one of
his ribs, and another man, by a fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner
who had the charge of a watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this
was the first sicklist that appeared on board the ship. The time of full
moon which was approaching made me entertain hopes that after that period
we should experience some change of wind or weather in our favour; but
the event did not at all answer our expectations. The latitude at noon
this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and longitude 76 degrees 1 minute
west.
As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and tasted fishy
we tried an experiment upon them which succeeded admirably. By keeping
them cooped up and cramming them with ground corn they improved
wonderfully in a short time; so that the pintada birds became as fine as
ducks, and the albatrosses were as fat, and not inferior in taste to,
fine geese. Some of the latter birds were caught that measured seven feet
between the extremities of the wings when spread. This unexpected supply
came very opportunely; for none of our livestock remained except hogs,
the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to stand the severity of the
weather.
Sunday 20.
This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few hours which
gave us hopes that the next would be a more favourable wind. A hog was
killed for the ship's company which gave them an excellent meal. Towards
noon, to our great disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the
westward and in the afternoon blew strong with snow and hailstorms.
Monday 21.
This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have remarked
before, it had no influence on the weather. At noon our latitude was 58
degrees 31 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees 7 minutes west, which
is near seven degrees to the eastward of our situation on the morning of
the 9th instant, when we had advanced the farthest in our power to the
westward, being then in 76 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the
west of Cape Deseada, the west part of the Straits of Magellan; and at
this time we were 3 degrees 52 minutes to the east of it and hourly
losing ground.
It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even unjustifiable it was
to persist any longer in attempting a passage this way to the Society
Islands. We had been thirty days in this tempestuous ocean. At one time
we had advanced so far to the westward as to have a fair prospect of
making our passage round; but from that period hard gales of westerly
wind had continued without intermission, a few hours excepted, which, to
borrow an expression in Lord Anson's voyage, were "like the elements
drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled violence." The season was
now too far advanced for us to expect more favourable winds or weather,
and we had sufficiently experienced the impossibility of beating round
against the wind, or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind
for which there was little reason to hope. Another consideration which
had great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this way
and should after all fail to get round, it would occasion such a loss of
time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to return in the proper
season by the East Indies would be rendered precarious. On the other hand
the prevalence of the westerly winds in high southern latitudes left me
no reason to doubt of making a quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and
thence to the eastward round New Holland.
Tuesday 22.
Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to bear away
for the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the evening of the
22nd, the wind then blowing strong at west, I ordered the helm to be put
a weather, to the great joy of every person on board. Our sicklist at
this time had increased to eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in
other respects the people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.
The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the summer months
has seldom been attended with difficulty and is to be preferred in the
moderate seasons to the more distant route to the eastward round the Cape
of Good Hope and New Holland. If we had been one month earlier, or
perhaps less, I doubt not but we should have effected our passage.
The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from the
latitude of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very convenient to
enable ships to judge of their distance from the land, as thick fogs are
very frequent near that coast. If the winds are favourable, to go through
Straits le Maire must considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn,
as all the distance saved is so much gained to the westward. I am
informed that several harbours have been lately discovered by the South
Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safe anchorage
with supplies of wood and water.
While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our situation was at
all affected by currents.