CHAPTER XVI SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

The descent lay through groves of pine and cedar, beds of beautiful

flowers, grassy glades, mountain brooks, tiny lakes, springs of ice

cold water, and acres and acres of azaleas.

In the center of a green glade lay a big brown bowlder surrounded by

flowers. Just under the side of this bowlder was a spring of ice cold

water.

Just as the sun was sliding down the western horizon beyond the

snow-capped peaks we arrived again in Wawona valley, where the evening

was spent in telling stories and relating adventures.

“When in London recently,” said our lawyer friend, “Chauncey Depew told

this story:

“At a hotel where he was dining the waitress said to a young man, ‘We

have blackberry pie, peach pie, plum pie, strawberry pie and custard

pie.’

“‘Bring me some plum pie and some peach pie, yes, and I’ll take some

blackberry pie.’ As the waitress turned to fill the order the young man

called her back, ‘You may bring me some strawberry pie, too.’

“‘What’s the matter with the custard pie?’ inquired she.

“The next morning Mr. Depew met a young Englishman on the street, who

complimented him on his speech, saying that he really liked it very,

very much, you know, but he would like to ask him one question, ‘What

was the matter with the custard pie?’”

When the laugh had subsided a young lady in a pink shirt waist leaned

forward in her chair, and looking earnestly at the lawyer, softly

inquired, “Well, what was?”

In the laugh which followed, the Englishman’s stupidity was lost sight

of in astonishment at that of the American girl.

“Excuse me,” said a well dressed lady to me one morning at the hotel in

Wawona, “I am a little hazy on my geography, but what I want to know is

this--if I go to Denver will I be in Colorado?”

After a week’s fishing, dreaming and resting in this beautiful valley,

we returned to the coast.

All up and down the Pacific coast as well as the islands of the sea

are wonderful floating gardens. These gardens are composed of kelp,

which attached to the bottom and to the rocks, grows from fifty to

one hundred feet long, throwing out broad leaves and balloon-like air

bulbs which support them. A perfect forest of broad green leaves rise

upward, presenting a sharp contrast to the blue water in which they

grow. Gracefully turning with every movement of the water they are

among the most strikingly beautiful objects of salt sea. When near the

shore these huge plants assume an upright position and become floating

gardens in very truth, through which vessels plow with much difficulty.

The entrance to the bay at Santa Barbara is a perfect maze of floating

sea-weed. The leaves are covered with patches of color, representing

parasitic animals, or plants, greens, reds, purples and yellows, a

perfect maze of color.

Delicate sea anemones looking exactly like their namesakes on land. The

slightest noise causes them to close up, withdrawing their tentacles,

and presently blooming out again.

Here are tiny plant-like animals growing in shrub-like forms.

Wonderful jellyfish, too, fill the ocean at night with a phosphorescent

light.

In place of birds and insects in a sea garden we find shell animals,

crabs and fishes clinging to the leaves. Along comes a big octopus

throwing out his eight sucker-lined arms in search of food. Disturbed,

he throws out an inky fluid, and while you are searching the black hole

for him, he slips away. Yonder comes a nautilus holding his shell high

over his head, crawling lazily along. Black-hued echini, bristling with

pins and needles which, waving to and fro, ward off their enemies. Fish

of all sorts and sizes inhabit the sea garden. The beautiful gold and

silver fishes gliding in and out remind one of the birds flitting from

tree to tree. In comes a big fish, the king of the bass, and the “small

fry” scatter right and left. At night these strange gardens are aglow

with phosphorescent lights.

Los Angeles has been having a succession of earthquakes.

The houses in San Francisco as well as other coast towns are built to

withstand earthquake shocks. On this account very few brick are used.

An earthquake hotel is advertised. In this city, too, one may eat

Pasteurized ice-cream without fear of the deadly ptomain.

An orange, as every one knows, is a difficult fruit to eat gracefully,

but I’ve learned how to do it in this land of the citron. A gentleman

assured me that the only proper place to eat an orange was in the

bathtub.

Up and down the length of this coast I’ve not been able to get a decent

lemonade. Very few places serve that drink at all. Drinks there are

plenty, but no lemonade. Now I know what those warnings mean which hang

up in every stateroom on the steamers: “Passengers strictly prohibited

from getting into bed with their boots on.”

California is rich in stories of her early days. Just east of San

Francisco lies a narrow valley bordering on the bay of San Pablo. The

first white man to enter this valley was one Miguel and his wife, who

named it El Hambre (Hunger) valley.

Miguel built an adobe hut and planted a garden. Later he started to

San Francisco, for supplies. Madam Miguel remained at home to tend the

garden. Miguel would return in three weeks and all would be well.

Time passed slowly to the lonely woman. When the three weeks had

passed Emilia packed a burro and started out on the trail which her

husband had taken. At night she tethered the burro and rolled in her

blanket slept by the roadside. Dawn saw her on the trail. The third day

her burro neighed and was answered by a donkey which proved to be that

of Miguel. Hurrying on she found her husband lying on the roadside,

dead. She remained there until the sun set, then covered him with a

blanket and returned home.

Later some traders wandering through the valley found her skeleton in

the garden. The adobe still stands in the now new town of Martinez.

Dick Brown, miner of Misery Hill, was a sort of recluse, who never made

any friends among the miners of the Eldorado of the west.

One day while out prospecting, a landslide carried him down the valley

and buried him beneath it. His body was recovered and buried, but his

ghost walked nightly at the foot of the old shaft.

A lazy, seemingly good-for-nothing sort of a fellow, Wilson by name,

began work in Brown’s mine. It was a good mine and paid Wilson well

until some one else began working it. Every morning there was evidence

that some one had been at work during the night.

One night Wilson loaded his rifle and waited for his nightly intruder.

Hearing a noise he started to follow it up.

What was that on yonder tree, which glowed with a phosphorescent light?

Wilson crept nearer. There, tacked on a big tree, was a notice, “D. B.

his mine. Hands off.”

A moment later the notice was gone. As he passed on he heard the water

flowing through the sluice and the sound of a pick in the gravel. There

stood Dick Brown. Wilson raised his rifle and fired. A yell, and the

ghost of Dick Brown came flying after him as he ran down the hill.

The next morning a pick and shovel were found by the roadside bearing

the initials “D. B.” cut on the handle of each. Wilson deserted the

claim, but the sluice on Misery Hill ran on for many years.

A Pacific Coast Vacation · 第 16 / 20 章