HINTS UPON COSTUME.
"She wore what was then somewhat universal--a coat, vest, and hat
resembling those of a man; which fashion has since called a
RIDING-HABIT."--_Diana Vernon_, SCOTT.
Under no circumstances does a lady, possessed of good figure and
carriage, appear to such great advantage, or is she so fascinating, as
when with mien and bearing haught and high, with perfect, well-balanced
seat, and light hands, faultlessly appointed, firmly, gently, and with
seeming carelessness she controls some spirited high-bred horse, some
noble steed of stainless purity of breed, whose rounded symmetry of
form, characteristic spring of the tail, and pride of port, proclaim
his descent from
"The Silver Arab with his purple veins,
The true blood royal of his race."
At no time are the beauties of the female form divine displayed with
such witching grace, the faultless flowing lines so attractively posed,
the _tout ensemble_ so thoroughly patrician. But if there be one blot
in the fair picture the whole charm at once vanishes. The incomparable
dignity, the well-turned-out steeds--the best that money could buy or
critical judgment select--the perfect figure of that superb horsewoman
the Empress of Austria, of whom it may justly be said "All the pride of
all her race in herself reflected lives," were it possible for Her
Imperial Majesty to err in such a matter, would have been of little
effect, but for a faultlessly cut and fitting habit.
"Fine feathers make fine birds," and though in riding costume the
plumage, save in the hunting-field, must be of sombre tint, it must be
unruffled and lie perfectly flat. There are Habit-makers and
Habit-makers; a very few as perfect as need be, more mediocre, most
arrant bunglers. Of late years legions of so-called ladies'-tailors
have sprung into being, not one in a hundred possessing the faintest
idea of what is wanted. A Habit-maker is a genius not often met with,
and when come across should be made a note of. A perfect fitting habit,
though not quite "a joy for ever," is a very useful, long-wearing, and
altogether desirable garment. Particular attention must be given to the
cutting of the back of the neck to secure plenty of play, and to
prevent that disagreeable tightness so often experienced, which
completely mars the easy and graceful movement of the head. While
giving absolute freedom to the figure, the well shaped body will fit
like a glove. A tight habit gives a stiff, inelegant appearance to the
whole figure, and produces a feeling of being "cribbed, cabined, and
confined," tantamount to semi-suffocation. A too long waist is certain
to ride-up and wrinkle. For winter wear there is nothing like the
double-breasted body. The choice to select from is a wide one.
[Illustration: THE "ZENITH" HABIT--JACKET BODY.]
To my mind and eye no one understands the whole art of habit-making so
well as Mr. W. Shingleton, 60, New Bond Street, London, the inventor of
the patent "Zenith" skirt, an ingenious arrangement which should be
universally patronized for its absolute safety, if for no less weighty
reason. Any lady wearing this clever and smart combination of skirt and
trousers, seated on one of Messrs. Champion and Wilton's safety
side-saddles, may set her mind completely at rest as to the possibility
of being "hung up" on the pommel, or dragged by it or the stirrup.
Perfect freedom in the saddle is secured to the rider, that portion of
the skirt which in the ordinary habit fits over the pommel, always a
source of danger, being entirely dispensed with. The "Zenith" is made
in two breadths or portions, instead of three, as heretofore, and on
one side this skirt is attached to the trousers at the "side seam" of
the right leg, or leg which passes over the pommel. The skirt is then
carried across or over both legs of the trousers in front, and, on the
other side, is brought round and attached to the "leg seam" of the left
leg and to the "seat seam," both the trousers and the skirt being then
secured to the waistband. Thus the rider, as stated above, has the
pommel leg free to be readily disengaged from the pommel without the
skirt catching thereon, the right leg at the back being left uncovered
by the skirt. An opening formed on the left side of the skirt allows of
the garment being readily put on. The front draping of the skirt
remains unaltered from the usual skirt, but when seen from behind it
presents the appearance of one leg covered, the other uncovered. When
walking, the back of the right trousers leg, which is uncovered, can be
draped somewhat by the front of the skirt being lifted and brought
round by the right hand. There is nothing whatever in this invention to
offend the most sensitive _equestrienne_, nothing to hurt the proper
feelings of the most modest. If preferred, the skirt may be provided on
each side with a slit, extending down from the knees, so as to enable
the wearer to readily use the skirt when wearing breeches or riding
boots. That such an enterprising firm as Messrs. Redfern, of Paris,
should have secured the patent rights for France, speaks volumes in
favour of Mr. Shingleton's really admirable invention.
Except for summer wear in early morning or in the country, and in the
case of young girls, when grey is permissible, the habit should be made
of some dark cloth. In the hunting-field, on which subject I am not
touching in this volume, some ladies who "go" don pink, those
patronising the Duke of Beaufort's wearing the becoming livery of the
Badminton Hunt, than which nothing is more becoming. Diagonal ribbed
cloths are much in vogue for skirts. Stout figures tone down the
appearance of too great solidity and rotundity by wearing an adaptation
of the military tunic. The long jacket-body, depicted in Mr.
Shingleton's sketch of the "Zenith," is well suited to full figures.
Waistcoats are all the rage,--blue bird's-eye, plush-leather with pearl
buttons, kersey, corduroy, nankeen, etc., in endless variety, and are
very much in evidence, as are shirt fronts, high collars, silk ties
with sporting-pin _a la cavaliere_. Braiding or ornamentation is bad
form; no frilling, no streamers are admissible; everything, to be in
good taste, ought to be of the very best, without one inch of
superfluous material,--severely simple.
In the Park, except for young ladies just entering on their teens, or
children, the tall silk hat is _de rigueur_. The present prevailing
"chimney-pot" or "stove-pipe" model, shaped something like the tompion
of a gun, is an unbecoming atrocity. Let us hope that fashion will soon
revert to the broad curled brim bell-shaped Hardwicke. Nothing is cheap
that's bad, and nothing detracts more from the general effect of a
"get-up" than a bad hat. So if my lady reader wants to be thoroughly
well hatted, let her go to Ye Hatterie, 105, Oxford Street, and be
measured for one of Mr. Heath's best. It will last out two or three of
other makers, and having done duty one season in Rotten Row, will look
well later on in the wear-and-tear of the hunting field, preserving its
bright glossy brilliancy, no matter what the weather be. Order a
quilted silk lining in preference to a plain leather one, and, when
being measured, let the _chevelure_ be compact and suited for riding. A
low-crowned hat is the best. For young girls, and out of the season,
riding melon-shaped or pot-hats of felt are useful and by no means
unbecoming. Mr. Heath makes a speciality of these, and has scores of
different, and more or less becoming, styles to select from. Hats made
to the shape of the head require no elastics to hold them on, and are
not the fruitful source of headache which ready-made misfits invariably
are. There is no objection to a grey felt with grey gauze veil in the
summer, but black with a black veil is in better taste. Anything in the
way of colour, other than grey, or, perhaps brown, is inadmissible. I
am not sufficient of a Monsieur Mantalini to advise very minutely on
such important points as the ladies' toilette, as to what veils may or
may not be worn, but a visit to the Park any morning or forenoon, when
London is in Town, will best decide. For dusty roads gauze is
essential.
Of all abominations and sources of equestrian discomfort a badly built
pair of riding-breeches are the worst. No breeches, pants, or trousers
can possibly sit well and give absolute comfort in the saddle without
flexible hips and belt-band riding-drawers. The best material, and
preferable to all silk, is a blend of silk and cashmere, which wears
well, is warm, elastic, of permanent elasticity, can be worn with great
comfort by the most sensitive, and is not too expensive. A habit should
fit like a glove over the hips, and the flexible-hip make of
riding-drawers which I advocate, aids in securing this moulding. The
fit of the breeches or pants, especially that of the right leg, at the
inside of the knee, should be particularly insisted upon. First-class
ladies' tailors generally have a model horse on which their customers
can mount when trying on. At Messrs. E. Tautz and Sons' establishment,
where the rider can be accoutred to perfection, ladies will find a
competent assistant of their own sex,--a trained fitter--who will by
careful measurement and subsequent "trying on" secure them against the
galling miseries of badly cut and ill-fitting breeches. Materials of
every description are available; but if the fair reader will be advised
by me, she will select brown undressed deer-skin, which is soft,
pliable, and durable. The waistbands and continuations are of strong
twilled silk. Leggings are generally and preferably worn with the
breeches, and can be had in all shades of cloth to go with the habit.
For the colonies and India a new material, known as Dr. Lahmann's
cotton-wool underclothing, cannot be too highly commended. In "the
gorgeous East," of which abode of the sun I have had some experience,
between March and the latter days of October, the thinnest animal-wool
is unbearably warm, and, when prickly-heat is about, absolutely
unbearable, the irritation produced by the two being, I should imagine,
akin to that endured by the four-footed friend of man when suffering
acutely from the mange. Moreover, in the clutches of the Indian
_dhobie_ (washerman), woollen materials rapidly shrink by degrees and
become beautifully less, when not knocked into holes, and are converted
into a species of felt.
This fabric is a new departure in the manufacture of cotton. From first
to last it is treated as wool, is spun as wool, and woven as wool, and
in my opinion is the best possible material for under wear in the
tropics. It is cool, wears well, washes well, is warranted not to
shrink, does not irritate the most sensitive skin, and, being woven on
circular knitting looms, is peculiarly adapted for close-fitting
riding-drawers and under-clothing generally. It has the additional
merits of having the appearance and colour of silk--a soft cream
colour,--is entirely free from dressing, and is moderate in price. As
this fabric (porous, knitted, woven, ribbed, or double-ribbed) is sold
by the yard as well as made up into seamless pants, jersies, etc., it
is admirably suited to the make of flexible-hip and belt-band drawers
referred to above. I feel that in directing attention to this
"baumwoll" (tree wool) clothing, I am conferring a benefit on all
Europeans whose avocations keep them within the tropics, and on those
of them especially who are obliged to take constant and prolonged horse
exercise. It is to be obtained at the Lahmann Agency, 15, Fore Street,
London, E.C.
The question of corsage is an all-important one, as the fit of a
garment depends largely on the shape of the corset. For growing girls,
and especially for such as are at all delicate and outgrowing their
strength, the _Invigorator_ corset is the least objectionable I
have yet seen. That it has the approval of the faculty is in its
favour. It may be described as a corset in combination with a
chest-expanding brace, and as such corrects the habit of stooping, and
by expanding the chest flattens the back and keeps the shoulder-blades
in their right place. Speaking as an ex-adjutant, who has had a good
deal of experience in "setting-up-drills," it in my opinion possesses
for young people merits far superior to anything of the kind yet
brought out. It gives support where most wanted without impeding the
freedom of the movements of the body; its elasticity is such that
respiration and circulation are not interfered with; the chest is
thrown out, the back straightened, preserving an erect figure--the body
being kept erect by the cross-straps at the back; it is comfortable to
the wearer, and there is no undue pressure anywhere. A riding-stay to
be perfect should be as light as possible, consistent with due support,
boned throughout with real whalebone, so as to be capable of being bent
and twisted without fear of "broken busks," and should fit the
figure--not the figure fit it--with glove-like accuracy. Such supple
corsets give perfect ease with freedom. The best special maker of
riding-corsets for ladies is Madame Festa, 13, Carlos Street, Grosvenor
Square, London, W. This artiste's productions combine all that is
necessary in material and workmanship, with perfect fit, ease, and
grace. A combination of silk elastic and coutil is said to be the ideal
material from which really comfortable corsets are made. For winter
work they should be lined with a pure natural woollen stuff as soft as
a Chuddah shawl. For tropical climates Grass-cloth or Nettle-cloth is
strongly recommended.
In this humid, uncertain climate of ours the rider will generally find
some sort of light and short waterproof a great comfort. It should be
sufficiently long to clear the saddle, and of a material such as will
permit of its being rolled up into a small compass for attachment to
the Ds of the saddle. Messrs. Lewin and Co., 28, Cockspur Street, S.W.
(successors to the old established firm Bax and Co.), makers of the
Selby driving-coat, turn out some very neat waterproof tweed or drab
garments, which are appropriate and serviceable. Their designs are
good, and the material thoroughly to be relied upon.
Well fitting, or in other words, tight gloves, of course, look very
well, but horsewomen must preserve free use of their hands. Lightness
of hand is an essential, but a certain amount of physical strength
cannot be dispensed with, and a tight glove, even of the best quality
of kid, means a cramped contraction of the hand and fingers with
consequent loss of power. The material, so long as it be stout enough,
may be of real buck-skin, stout Suede, dog's-skin, so called, or Cape.
The best real buck-skin hunting, driving, and walking-gloves, for
either ladies or gentlemen, I have ever come across, are those
manufactured by T. P. Lee and Co., 24, Duke Street, Bloomsbury. They
are of first-class soft material, well cut, hand-sewn with waxed brown
thread, and very durable; in fact, everlasting, and most comfortable
wear.
A neat, light hunting-crop, riding-cane, or whip _without a tassel_,
are indispensable.
The following is a comfortable and serviceable riding-dress for long
country rides, picnics, etc., recommended by a lady who can boast of
considerable experience in the saddle both at home and in the
colonies--one of a riding family. "Habit--a short hunting-skirt, short
enough to walk in with comfort, with jacket (_Norfolk?_) of the same
material, made loose enough to admit of jersey being worn under it, if
required; a wide leather belt for the waist, fastening with a buckle.
This belt will be found a great comfort and support when on horseback
for many hours. Hat of soft felt, or melon-shaped hat. Pantaloons of
chamois leather, buttoning close to the ankles. Hussar or Wellington
boots made of Peel leather, with moderate-sized heels, tipped with
brass, and soles strong but not thick. A leather stud should be sewn on
the left boot, about two and a half inches above the heel, on which
stud the spur should rest, and thus be kept in its place without tight
buckling. The spur found to be the most useful after a trial of many is
a rowel spur of plated steel (the flat tapered-side, elastic,
five-pointed hunting), about two to two and a half inches long, strong
and light, hunting shape, and fastened with a strap and buckle, the
foot-strap of plated steel chain. This chain foot-strap looks neater
than a leather one, and does not become cut or worn out when on foot on
rough, rocky ground. The rowel pin is a screw-pin; thus the rowel can
be changed at pleasure, and a sharp or blunt one fitted as required by
the horse one rides." [_In lieu of chamois leather I would suggest
undressed deer-skin, as supplied by Messrs. E. Tautz and Sons, 485,
Oxford Street, London, which is as soft as velvet, and needs no
additional lining, so apt to crease. And instead of the boots I
recommend waterproofed Russia leather or brown hide, such as men use
for polo, as manufactured by Faulkner, 52, South Molton Street, London,
W., with low, flat heels tipped with mild steel._] The lady's idea,
except with regard to the interchangeable rowel, the pin of which must
work loose, is good.
This brings me to the much-vexed subject of the Spur, its use and
abuse. Ladies should not be mounted on horses requiring severe
punishment; but there are occasions, oft and many, when "a reminder"
from a sharp-pointed rowel will prove of service. I do not say that
lady riders should always wear a persuader; on a free-going, generous
horse it would be out of place, irritating, and annoying; but on a
lymphatic slug, or in the case of a display of temper, the armed heel
is most necessary. We must bear in mind that almost all of the highest
priced ladies' horses have been broken in to carry a lady by
professional lady-riders, one and all of whom wear spurs. Many a horse,
in the canter especially, will not go up to his bit without an
occasional slight prick. Women are by nature supposed to be gentle and
kindly, and yet I know some who are everlastingly "rugging" at their
horse's mouths and digging in the spur. They would use the whip also as
severely as the Latchfords but for the exhibition it would entail. When
punishment must be inflicted, the spur as a corrective is far more
effective than the whip; it acts instantaneously, without warning, and
the horse cannot see it coming and swerve from it. Though more dreaded
it inflicts the lesser pain of the two. The deepest dig from the rowel
will not leave behind it the smart of the weal from a cutting whip. The
best spur for ladies is the one mentioned above, with fine-pointed
rowel; it does not tear the habit, and the points are long enough and
sharp enough to penetrate through the cloth should it intervene between
the heel and the horse's side. No lady should venture to wear a spur
till she has acquired firmness of seat, to keep her left leg steady in
the stirrup and her heel from constantly niggling the animal's ribs. I
do not like the spring-sheath one-point spur, as it is uncertain in its
action.