I thanked him, but said that I would keep to the road for the present,

and then I changed the subject to the reaper. It was of the make of the

factory in which, for eight weeks, during the previous winter, I worked

as a hand-truckman, and very full of association it was as I looked upon

it in changed surroundings. Hundreds of such tongues John Barry and I

had loaded on our truck in the paint-shop, then stacked them under the

eaves over the platform; scores of such binders we had transferred from

the dark warehouses to the waiting freight-cars below. Equally familiar

looked the “wider,” and the receptacle for twine, and the “binder,” and

the “bar.” I told the farmer that I had been a hand in the factory where

his machine was made, and he appeared interested in the account of the

vast industry where two thousand men work together in so perfect a

system of the division of labor, that a complete reaper, like his own,

is turned out in periods of a few minutes in every working day.

He, too, was autobiographical in his turn. His history was one of the

innumerable examples at the West of substantial success under the

comparatively simple advantages of good health and an unbounded capacity

for work.

From an early home in Pennsylvania, he drifted, as a mere boy, into

Indiana, and “living out” there to a farmer, he remained with him for

five years. Shrewd enough to see his opportunity, and to seize it, he

made himself master of farming, and became so indispensable to his

employer that he was soon making more than twenty dollars a month and

his keep the year around. At the end of five years he had saved a little

more than eight hundred dollars, which he invested in a mortgage on good

land. Then came his _Wanderjahre_. He went to Colorado, worked for two

years on a sheep ranch, and looked for chances of fortune. They were not

wholly wanting, but the prospects were distant, and, rather than endure

longer the lonely life of the frontier, he returned as far as Iowa, and

bought his present farm at the rate of ten dollars an acre. For twelve

years he had lived and worked upon it. Under improvement, and the growth

of population about it, its value had risen threefold, for he had

recently added to it a neighboring farm, for which he had to pay at the

rate of thirty dollars an acre.

The narrative was piquant in the extreme. There was in it so ingenuous a

belief in the order of things under which he had risen unaided from the

position of a hired man to that of a hirer of men. Like Mr. Ross, he had

no quarrel with social conditions, except that they no longer furnished

him with such hands as he himself had been. Under the demoralization of

a demand for men far in excess of the supply, the agricultural laborers

of the present sit lightly on their places, and are mere time servers,

he said, with no personal interest in their employers’ affairs. He

seemed to imply a causal relation between the condition of the labor

market as it affects the farmer and the degeneracy in agricultural

laborers. But whether he meant that or not, he was certainly clear in an

insistence that, from his point of view, the social difficulty is one of

individual inefficiency, and hardly ever takes the form of any real

hindrance to a genuine purpose to get on in the world. All along our

route he enforced the point by actual illustration, showing how one

farmer, by closest attention to business, had freed himself of the

obligations at first incurred in taking up the land, and had added farm

to farm, while such another, less efficient than his neighbor, had gone

down under a burden of debt.

I opened the gate, and stood watching him as he drove up the long lane

leading to his house and barns, while the horses quickened their pace in

conscious nearness to their stalls. A Philistine of the Philistines in

the impregnable castle of his hard-earned home, I could but like and

honor him.

Under the stars, on top of a load of hay that had been left standing in

a barn-yard in the outskirts of Jefferson, I slept that night, and spent

most of the next day, which was Sunday, under the trees of the town

square, in front of the court-house, going in the morning to a Methodist

church, where awaited me the courteous welcome which I found at all

church doors, whether in the country or the town. For food I had a large

loaf of bread, which I had purchased for ten cents at Gowrie. A little

beyond Jefferson, after a delightful bath in the Raccoon River, with the

uncommon luxury of a sandy bottom, I got leave of a farmer on the road

to Scranton to sleep in his barn, and, after the rest of Sunday, I set

out on Monday morning keen and fit for the remaining walk to Council

Bluffs.

Monday’s march took me from a point not far west of Jefferson, by way of

Coon Rapids, to the heart of the hills in the neighborhood of Templeton,

where I spent the night on the farm of a Scotsman of the name of Hardy.

The heat of the day was prodigious. Not like the languid heat of the

tropics, it was as though the earth burned with fever which communicated

itself in a nervous quiver to the hot, dry air, and quickened one’s

steps along the baking roads. The stillness was almost appalling, and,

as I passed great fields of standing corn, I could fancy that I heard it

grow with a crackle as of visible outbudding of the blades.

I did not walk all the way. Twice in the day I had a lift, both of

several miles, and each with a farmer whose views differed as widely

from the other’s as though they were separated by a thousand miles,

instead of being relatively next-door neighbors.

The first lift came in the morning along a main-travelled road which I

took in the hope of meeting an intersecting one that would lead me on to

Manning. A good-looking young farmer, fair-haired and blue-eyed, asked

me to the seat at his side high above the box of a farm wagon. We were

not long in learning that both were interested in the economics of

farming, where he knew much and I little, and where I was glad to be a

listener. It was like talking again with a socialist from a sweatshop in

Chicago. The fire of a new religion was in him. The difference lay

chiefly in that his was not the gospel of society made new and good by

doing away with private property and substituting a collective holding

of all the land and capital that are made use of for production; his

gospel was that of “free silver,” but he held it with a like unshaken

faith in its regenerating power. For months he had been preaching it,

and organizing night classes among the farmers in all the district

schoolhouses within reach, for the purpose of study of the money

question. Just once in the talk with me he grew convincing. There was

much of the usual insistence of “a conspiracy among rich men against the

producing classes,” whatever that may mean, and there were significant

statements to the effect that nine-tenths of the farmers of the region,

which he proudly called “The Garden of Eden of the West,” were under

mortgage to moneylenders, and that farmers in general, owing to the

tyranny of “the money power,” were fast sinking to a condition of

“vassalage;” but at last he rose to something more intelligible. It was

the sting of a taunt that roused him. He had seen copied from an Eastern

newspaper the statement that Western farmers were beginning to want free

silver, because they grasped at a chance to pay their debts at fifty

cents on the dollar. The man was fine in his resentment of the charge of

dishonor.

“We mean to pay our honest debts in full,” he said; “but see how the

thing works out: I borrowed a thousand dollars when wheat was selling at

a dollar a bushel. If I raised a thousand bushels, I could pay my debt

by selling them. But when wheat has fallen to fifty cents a bushel, I

must raise two thousand to meet the obligation. That came of

appreciation in the value of money. It is to the interest of Wall Street

men to have it so, while we need an increased volume of money. They deal

in dollars and we in wheat, and the more they can make us raise for a

dollar, the better off they are. It costs me as much time and labor and

wages to raise a thousand bushels of wheat as when it sold for a dollar,

and the justice of the case would be in my paying my debt with a

thousand bushels, for I don’t raise dollars, I raise wheat.”

No abstract reasoning or historical examples could have convinced him

that an appreciation in the value of money was due to causes other than

a conspiracy among what he called “the money kings,” who, in some

manner, had got control of the volume of currency and so determined the

prices of commodities. But with all his hallucinations in finance, it

was very plain that the charge of dishonesty had been misapplied.

It was toward the end of the day’s march that I came by the second lift.

For miles the country had grown more hilly, and when I left behind me

the village of Coon Rapids I found myself climbing a hill that was

really steep, then making a sharp descent into a valley, only to begin

another hill longer and steeper than any before.

I was slowly ascending one of the longest hills when a farmer in a light

market wagon called to me, making offer of a drive. I waited at the

crest of the hill and climbed to the seat at his side, while the horses

stood panting lightly in the cooler air that moved across the hill-tops.

In the two or three miles that we drove together, the farmer conversed

very freely. Quite as well informed as my acquaintance of the morning,

he was of sturdier calibre than he, and the difference in their views

was complete. He knew of no conspiracy against farmers or any “producing

class,” and he held that almost the most disastrous thing that could be

done would be to disturb the stability of the currency. An appreciation

in the value of money there had been, but it was plainly due to causes

at work the world over, and quite beyond any man’s control. Farmers were

suffering from it now; but a few years ago they had profited by

appreciation in the value of crops, and might look hopefully for a

return of better times for them. As to the farmers of that part of Iowa,

their fortune had been of the best. These hills were looked upon at

first as the least desirable land and were last to be taken up, but had

proved, when once developed, almost the richest soil in the State. The

farmers who settled there had found themselves, in consequence, in

possession of land that was constantly increasing in value. From $10 an

acre it had quickly risen to $20, and many of the owners would now

reluctantly yield their farms for $40 an acre.

There was nothing boastful in the statements. My informant was a person

of quiet speech and manner, but he had the advantage of being able to

enforce from concrete examples all that he had to say, and the histories

of most of the farmers, and every transaction in real estate for miles

around seemed to be at his command.

Nothing could have fitted better the mood in which I left him than my

meeting that evening with Mr. Hardy, at whose farm I spent the night. A

genial Scotsman of clear, open countenance, whose deep, rich voice

seemed always on the verge of laughter; he welcomed me right heartily,

and gave me supper of the best and a bed in the granary on fragrant hay,

which he spread there with his own hands, and a breakfast in the

morning; and for all this he would accept return, neither in work nor

pay.

We talked long together of English politics, but he was at his best on

the condition of the Iowa farmer. A more contented man I have rarely

met, nor a man of more contagious good-humor. As a youth he came from

Scotland, and had been a pioneer among these Iowa hills. For him the

hardships were all gone from farming, as compared with his early

experience. An accessible market, admirable labor-saving machines, ready

intercourse with neighbors and with the outside world, had changed the

original struggle under every disadvantage to a life of ease in

contrast. Very glad I should be of the chance to accept his parting

invitation to return at some time to his home.

Early in Tuesday’s march a young Swedish farmer picked me up, and

carried me on to within five miles of Manning; and, a little west of the

town, I fell in with another farmer, who shared his seat with me over

six miles of the way. A third lift of a couple of miles into Irwin

helped me much on the road to Kirkman. I had not reached the village,

however, when night fell. At a farm, a mile or more to the east of it, I

found as warm a welcome as on the night before. Supper was ready, and

room was made for me; then I lent a hand at the milking with the hired

men. Last, before going to bed, we had a swim. The farmer kept for the

purpose a pool in the barn-yard which was well supplied with constantly

changing water, and nothing could have been more grateful after a day of

work and walking in a temperature of 105° in the shade. I should liked

to have remained there as a hired man almost as much as with Mr. Hardy,

but the journey to Council Bluffs was now well under way, and I was bent

upon completing it before another long stop.

On Wednesday I wished to reduce as much as possible the distance to

Neola, which is a village at the junction of the St. Paul and Rock

Island railways; but I had to spend the night a few miles southwest of

Shelby. This was because I was not so fortunate as on the day before in

the matter of lifts. I got but one drive that day. Turning from Kirkman

into the stage-road leading into Harlan, the county-seat of Audubon

County, I saw approaching me a buggy containing two men. I stepped aside

to let it pass, but it stopped beside me, and one of the men invited me

to get in. The country doctor was writ large upon him, and, at his side,

was a coatless, collarless, taciturn youth, who clearly was his “hired

man.” Crowded between them I sat down, and the physician turned his

sharp, genial eyes upon me.

“Where are you from?”

“Where are you going?”

“How old are you?”

“What’s your name?”

“Where do you expect to go when you die?”

“Why don’t you shave?”

Such were the questions that, with almost fierce rapidity, he plied me

with, waiting meanwhile for but the briefest answer to each. And when

the ordeal was over, he laughed a low, shrewd laugh while his eyes

twinkled merrily, as he remarked, dryly: “I guess you’ll do.”

He allowed me no time to acknowledge the compliment, but went swiftly

on:

“Do you know that Mr. Frick has been shot and may die?”

I did not know it, for I had not seen a newspaper since leaving Algona,

and my intercourse had been with farmers whose news reaches them by the

weekly press,

It was an exceedingly tragic climax to the situation at Homestead, and

not without influence in determining the sympathies of the Western

farmers with the issues involved there. It had been amazing to me to

discover how keen was the interest taken in the strike all along my

route, and it was not a little significant, I thought, to find

everywhere a strong indignation against the use of a private police

force in accomplishing ends legal in themselves and fully provided for

by law and usage. So far in the struggle the feeling of the farmers was

with the men. Beyond that they appeared uncertain. There was a question

of fact to begin with. Did the cut affect more the hands who were

working for a dollar and a half a day or the skilled workmen who were

reported to get, some of them as much as fifteen dollars? Until this was

clear, there could be but speculation.

Most interesting of all, I had found their attitude toward the question

that was widely raised of a right the workmen were said to have in the

property at Homestead, apart from their wages, on the ground of their

having created its value. Here was the real issue of modern

industrialism, and on it I found the farmers conservative, to say the

least.

The American farmer is a landed proprietor with a gift for logical

tendencies that does him credit. His chiefest aim is to maintain, if

possible, his economic independence, and a doctrine that would give to

his hired man an ultimate claim to ownership in his farm is not one that

is likely soon to meet with wide acceptance among his class.

It was with the physician that I talked these matters over, and I was

interested to find my experience confirmed by that of so expert an

observer, whose chances were so good.

Very reluctantly I parted from him at his door and made in the direction

of Neola. Owing to rains that delayed me on Thursday, I did not enter

Neola until the middle of the afternoon of that day, and there I did not

stop in passing, but pressed on to Underwood, where I spent the night.

Friday was clear again and hot, but the roads were difficult, and I had

to desert them for the lines of the St. Paul and Rock Island railways,

that parallel each other side by side for several miles into Council

Bluffs.

For the past day I had not had a single offer of a job. The farmers, as

I approached the town, seemed either less in need of men or less willing

to take up with a chance wayfarer. No doubt I should have had no

difficulty had I set about a search for work. Certainly I could not have

fared better than I did for dinner at a farm, where I was allowed to

lend a hand with a load of hay. And after dinner, when the farmer and I

talked together for an hour, I found in him the same contentment which

struck me as so general among Iowa farmers.

But my letters were in the Post-office at Omaha, and I felt impatient of

delay until I should get them. I did not get them on that day, however,

nor for several days to come. In Council Bluffs I met the unlooked-for

barrier of a toll-bridge across the Missouri. Five cents would give me a

right of way, but I had only one, and must, therefore, look for work. I

counted myself very fortunate when, at nightfall, I got a job in a

livery-stable.

I had crossed Iowa, and Mr. Ross’s promise had been abundantly

fulfilled. On any day of the march I could have found a dozen places for

the asking, and scarcely a day had passed that I had not repeatedly been

asked to go to work. I should have thought this a condition peculiar to

the harvest time, had not many of the farmers told me that, while their

need is greatest then, it is so constant always that no good man need

ever be long without work among them.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

A SECTION-HAND ON THE

UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY

------------------------------------------------------------------------

A SECTION-HAND ON THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY

It cost five cents to go from Council Bluffs to Omaha in the summer of

1892. That was the toll of a foot passenger in crossing the bridge

which, spanning the Missouri, joined the two cities. It was a reasonable

toll, I dare say, and paid probably no more than a fair return on the

capital invested in the bridge, but it was five cents and I had only

one. One dingy copper coin, with its Indian head and laurel wreath, was

all that was left of the savings from my last job. I must, therefore,

find work in Council Bluffs, and the letters which had been waiting for

me in Omaha must wait a little longer. But I felt fagged, for I had

reached the end of a six days’ walk of some 200 miles, so I took a seat

on a bench in the shade in the public square near a fountain, whose play

was soothing in the heat of a midsummer afternoon.

I thought regretfully then of the farmer with whom I dined at noon that

day, and with whom I might have remained as a hired man. Besides, I

remembered with some concern two men on foot who met me on the outskirts

of Council Bluffs.

“Where are you from, partner?” one of them asked, with some bluster in

his manner.

“I’ve just come down through the State from Algona,” I replied.

“Is there any work out the way you came?”

“Lots of it,” I assured him.

“Well, there ain’t none the way you’re goin’. Me and me pal is wore out

lookin’ for a job in Omaha and Council Bluffs.”

I had come 1,500 miles as a wage-earner, and I had 1,500 yet to go

before I should reach the Pacific, but not yet had it been hard to find

work of some sort, except when I chose to stay in a crowded city in

winter. The anxiety that I felt in this instance proved groundless, for

when, in the cool of the evening, I looked for employment I found it at

the third application, and I went to bed that night a hostler in a

livery-stable at a wage of twenty dollars a month and board at a “Fifth

Avenue” hotel.

Ten dollars less twelve cents, which were due for the hire of books at a

stationer’s shop, were clear gain at the end of two weeks’ service in

the stable. But the necessity of writing up notes and of answering many

letters, besides the allurements of a public library, kept me for

several days in Omaha, so that my cash had dwindled, when, one afternoon

about the middle of August, I left the city, with the broad State of

Nebraska as the next step of the journey.

It was natural to follow the Union Pacific Railway. It takes its course

westward through the State, and is paralleled by a main-travelled road

that connects the frequent settlements along the line. Just out of Omaha

the railroad makes a southern bend, and I avoided this by following the

directer course of the highway that led next morning to a meeting with

the rails at Elkhorn. The going there was of the plainest. The railway

followed the northern bank of the Platte River and the road followed the

rail. If the day was wet, I left the road and walked the sleepers; if

the day was dry, I walked the road, but always I was within easy hail of

a lift, and so fell in with many an interesting farmer and was saved

many miles of walking.

It was late in the afternoon of a rainy day that there chanced a lift of

the most timely. From low, heavy clouds had been falling since early

morning a misty rain that almost floated in the warm, still air. For a

hundred yards together I might find a tolerable path along the turf at

the edge of the road. Then, as the mud grew deeper, I took to the rails

and kept them, until the monotony of the sleepers drove me to the mire

again. I had seen scarcely a soul that day except the fleeting figures

on the trains and an occasional bedraggled section-hand who looked

sullenly at me, barely deigning a salutation as I passed. It seemed

hardly worth while to be abroad, but I had found it generally best to

stick to the road when I could, and I was beginning now to think of a

shelter for the night and trying to find some satisfaction in having

covered more than twenty miles since morning.

The rumble of a heavy wagon began to sound down the road; and when I

could hear the splash of the horses’ hoofs near by, I was delighted to

catch the call of the driver, as he asked me to a seat at his side. He

was a farm-hand, young and muscular and slouching, as he sat

stoop-shouldered, with the lines held loosely in his bare hands, while

the rain dripped from a felt hat upon the shining surface of his rubber

coat.

Why he had asked me to ride I could not clearly see, for he scarcely

turned his lacklustre eyes upon me when I climbed up beside him, and he

seemed not in the least anxious to talk.

We were driving through a region that was growing familiar from its

changelessness. On every side were fields of corn, unfenced, and bounded

only by the horizon, apparently, as they stretched away into cloudy

space. Like islands in a sea of standing corn were widely scattered

groups of farm buildings, their clusters of cottonwood-trees about them

and sometimes a fruit orchard. And if there was any other break in the

monotony of corn, it was where vast acres had been turned to raising

beets for the sugar trade. Hardly a swell marred the level of the

prairie, and the rails reached endlessly on in an unbending line across

the plain.

The usual subjects of conversation were of no avail with my new

acquaintance. He was not interested in corn and only languidly in the

experiment with beets, and the general election failed to move him,

although he ventured so far as to insist that there was no hope for the

farmers of the West until the free coinage of silver should be secured.

His mood was in keeping with the day, and life was “flat, unprofitable,

and stale.”

He quickened finally, to the theme of work, but only as a vent to his

depression. Work was plentiful enough; for such as he, life was little

else than work, but of what profit was it to slave your soul out for

enough to eat and to wear and a place to sleep?

There was no escaping the tragedy of the man’s history as he told me

simply of his father’s death from overwork in an attempt to pay off the

mortgage on the farm and how his mother was left to the unequal

struggle. He himself was eleven then, and the elder of two children; he

could remember clearly how the home was lost—the accumulated labor of

many years. From that time his life had been an unbroken struggle for

existence, against odds of sickness that again and again had swept away

his earnings and thrown him back to the dependence of an agricultural

laborer.

A Day with a Tramp, and Other Days · 第 3 / 7 段