RULES FOR CHESS.

1. Move your pawns before your pieces, and afterwards bring out the

pieces to support them; therefore the king’s, queen’s and bishops’ pawns

should be the first played, in order to open the game well.

2. Do not, therefore, play out any of your pieces early in the game,

because you thereby lose moves, in case your adversary can, by playing a

pawn, make them retire, and he also opens his game at the same time:

especially avoid playing your queen out, till your game is tolerably

well opened.

3. Avoid giving useless checks, and never give any unless to gain some

advantage, because you may lose the move, if the adversary can either

take or drive your piece away.

4. Never crowd your game by having too many pieces together, so as to

prevent your men advancing or retreating as occasion may require.

5. If your game should be crowded, endeavour to free it by exchanges of

pieces or pawns, and castle your king as soon as convenient; afterwards

bring out your pieces, and attack the adversary where weakest.

6. When the adversary plays out his pieces before his pawns, attack them

as soon as you can with your pawns, by which you may crowd his game and

make him lose moves.

7. Never attack the adversary’s king without a sufficient force; and if

he attack yours, and you cannot retaliate, offer exchanges; and should

he retire, when you present a piece to exchange, he may lose a move. It

also may sometimes be expedient to act in this manner in case of other

attacks.

8. Play your men in guard of one another, so that if any be taken, the

enemy may also be captured by that which guarded yours, and endeavour to

have as many guards to your piece, as your adversary advances others

upon it; and, if possible, let them be of less value than those he

assails with. When you cannot well support your piece, see if by

attacking one of his that is better, or as good, you may not thereby

save yours.

9. Never attack but when well prepared, for thereby you open your

adversary’s game, and prepare him to pour in a strong attack upon you,

as soon as your weaker one is over.

10. Never play till you have examined whether you are free from danger

by your adversary’s last move; nor offer to attack till you have

considered what harm he would be able to do you by his next moves, in

consequence of yours.

11. When your attack is in a prosperous way, never be diverted from it

by taking any piece, or other seeming advantage, your adversary may

purposely throw in your way, with the intent that, by your taking the

bait, he might gain a move which would make your design miscarry.

12. When, in pursuing a well-laid attack, you find it necessary to force

your adversary’s defence, with the loss of some pieces; if, upon

counting as many moves forward as you can, you find a prospect of

success, sacrifice a piece or two to gain your end: these bold attempts

make the finest games.

13. Never let your queen stand so before the king, as that your

adversary, by bringing forwards a rook or a bishop, might check your

king if she were not there, for you could hardly save her, or perhaps at

best must sacrifice her for an inferior piece; as for example: place the

white king on 61, the queen on 53; the black king on 4, and the rook, on

16: which last, if moved to 13, must be taken by the white queen, who in

return would be taken by the black king, because the white queen could

not otherwise be moved without putting the king on check to the black

rook.

14. Let not your adversary’s knight fork your king and queen, or king

and rook, or queen and rook, or your two rooks, at the same time; for in

the two first cases, the king being forced to go out of check, the queen

or the rook must be lost; and in the two last a rook must be lost, at

best, for a worse piece. Place the white queen on 5, the rook on 7, and

a black knight on 37. The latter piece, if moved to 22, will fork both

the queen and rook, and consequently one of them must be lost for the

knight.

15. Take care that no guarded pawn of your adversary’s fork two of your

pieces: knights and rooks are particularly liable to this mode of

attack; also guard against either a check by discovery, or a stale-mate.

16. When the kings have castled on different sides of the board, attack

with the pawn you have on that side where the adversary has castled,

advancing the pieces, especially the queen and rooks to support them;

and if the adversary’s king have three pawns on a line in front, he

should not stir them till forced to it.

17. Endeavour to have a move in ambuscade; that is, place the queen,

bishop, or rook behind a pawn, or a piece, in such a manner, as that,

upon playing that pawn, or piece, you discover a check upon your

adversary’s king, and consequently may often get a piece, or some other

advantage by it. Suppose the black king on 6, a white bishop on 41, and

a pawn on 34; by moving the pawn to 26, a check by the white bishop is

discovered upon the black king.

18. Never guard an inferior piece or pawn with a better, if you can do

it with a pawn, because that better piece may in such a case be, as it

were, out of play.

19. A pawn pushed on, and well supported, often costs the adversary a

piece; but one separated from the others is seldom of any value. And

whenever you have gained a pawn, or other advantage, and are not in

danger of losing the move thereby, make as frequent exchanges as you

can.

20. If each player have three pawns upon the board, and no piece, and

you have a pawn on one side of the board, and the other two on the other

side, and your adversary’s 3 are opposite to your 2, march with your

king to take his pawns; and if he move to support them, go on to queen

with your single pawn; and if he attempt to hinder it, take his pawns,

and push yours to queen; that is, to move a pawn into the adversary’s

back row, in order to make a queen, when the original is lost.

21. At the latter end of the game, each party having only three or four

pawns on different sides of the board, the kings are to endeavour to

gain the move, in order to win the game: for example—the white king

placed on 54, and the black king on 37, white would gain the move by

playing to 53, or black to 38, and in both cases the adverse king would

be prevented from advancing.

22. When the adversary has no more than his king and one pawn on the

board, and you a king only, you can never lose that game if you bring

and keep your king opposite to your adversary’s, when he is immediately

either before or on one side of his pawn, and only one house between the

kings. This must then either be a drawn game, or if the opponent persist

in his endeavours to win, he will lose by a stale-mate, by drawing you

upon the last square.

23. When your adversary has one pawn on the rook’s line, with a king and

bishop against a king only, and his bishop is not of the colour that

commands the corner-house his pawn is going to, if you can get your king

into that corner, you cannot lose that game, but may win by a

stale-mate.

24. When you have only your queen left in play, and your king happens to

be in that position of stale-mate, keep giving check to your adversary’s

king, always taking care not to check him where he can interpose any of

his pieces that make the stale: by so doing, you will at last force him

to take your queen, and then you win the game by being in stale-mate.

25. Never cover a check with a piece that a pawn pushed upon it may

take, for fear of only getting that pawn for it: put a black rook on 7,

and a pawn on 40; the white king on 63, and a knight on 61: the white

king being on a check to the rook, if the check be covered by moving the

white knight to 56, the black pawn could then be moved to 48, and take

the knight.

26. Do not crowd your adversary’s king with your pieces, lest you

inadvertently give a stale-mate.

27. Do not be too much afraid of losing a rook for an inferior piece;

though a rook is better than any other, except the queen, yet it seldom

comes into play, so as to operate, until the end of the game; and it is

generally better to have a worse piece in play than a superior out.

28. When you have moved a piece, which your adversary drives away with a

pawn, that is a bad move, your enemy gaining a double advantage. At this

nice game no move can be indifferent. Though the first move may not be

much, between equally good players, yet the loss of one or two more,

after the first, makes the game almost irretrievable: but if you can

recover the move, or the attack (for they both go together), you are in

a fair way of winning.

29. If ever your game be such, that you have scarce any thing to play,

you have either brought out your pieces wrong, or, which is worse, not

at all; for if you have brought them out right, you must have variety

enough.

30. Do not be much afraid of doubling a pawn: two in a direct line are

not disadvantageous when surrounded by three or four others; three

together are strong, (as three white pawns on 28, 35 and 37;) but four,

(as 44 in addition) that make a square, with the help of other pieces,

well managed, form an invincible strength, and probably may produce you

a queen: on the contrary, two pawns, with an interval between (as on 35

and 37) are no better than one; and if you should have three over each

other in a line (as 26, 34, and 42) your game cannot be in a worse

situation.

31. When a piece is so attacked that it is difficult to save it, give it

up, and endeavour to annoy your enemy in another place; for it often

happens, that whilst your adversary is pursuing a piece, you either get

a pawn or two, or such a situation as ends in his destruction.

32. Supposing your queen and another piece are attacked at the same

time, and by removing your queen, you must lose the piece, if you can

get two pieces in exchange for her, rather do that than retire; for the

difference is more than the worth of a queen; besides, you preserve your

situation, which is often better than a piece; when the attack and

defence are thoroughly formed, if he who plays first be obliged to

retire by the person who defends, that generally ends in the loss of the

game on the side of him who attacks.

33. Do not aim at exchanges without reason; a good player will take

advantage of it, to spoil your situation, and mend his own: but when you

are strongest, especially by a piece, and have not an immediate

check-mate in view, then every time you exchange, your advantage

increases. Again, when you have played a piece, and your adversary

opposes one to you, exchange directly, for he wants to remove you:

prevent him, and do not lose the move.

34. Every now and then examine your game, and then take your measures

accordingly.

35. At the latter end of the game, especially when both queens are off

the board, the kings are capital pieces; do not let your king be idle;

it is by his means, generally, you must get the move and the victory.

36. As the queen, rooks, and bishops operate at a distance, it is not

always necessary in your attack to have them near your adversary’s king;

they do better at a distance, cannot be driven away, and prevent a

stale-mate.

37. When there is a piece you can take, and that cannot escape, do not

hurry; see where you can make a good move elsewhere, and take the piece

at leisure.

38. It is not always right to take your adversary’s pawn with your king,

for very often it happens to be a safeguard and protection to him. Place

a black rook on 5, with a pawn on 45, and the white king on 53, and he

will be sheltered by the black pawn from the attack of the rook.

39. When you can take a man with different pieces, consider thoroughly

with which you had best take it.

The Field Book: or, Sports and pastimes of the United Kingdom compiled from the best authorities, ancient and modern · 第 71 / 261 题