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COLOUR IN WOVEN DESIGN
COLOUR IN WOVEN DESIGN
_BEING A TREATISE ON_
THE SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE COLOURING
(WOOLLEN, WORSTED, COTTON AND SILK MATERIALS)
BY
ROBERTS BEAUMONT, M.SC., M.I.MECH.E.
PROFESSOR OF TEXTILE INDUSTRIES, THE UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS;
AUTHOR OF
“FINISHING, OF TEXTILE FABRICS,” “WOOLLEN AND WORSTED CLOTH MANUFACTURE,”
“WOVEN FABRICS AT THE WORLD’S FAIR.”
VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE JURY OF AWARD AT THE PARIS EXHIBITION, 1900;
INSPECTOR OF TEXTILE INSTITUTES; SOCIETY OF ARTS SILVER MEDALLIST;
HONORARY MEDALLIST OF THE CITY AND GUILDS OF LONDON INSTITUTE.
EDITOR OF
“THE JOURNAL OF THE LEEDS UNIVERSITY TEXTILE STUDENTS’ ASSOCIATION”
WITH 39 COLOURED PLATES, CONTAINING 187 ILLUSTRATIONS
AND 280 FIGURES IN THE TEXT
_SECOND EDITION, REWRITTEN AND ENLARGED,
WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONAL ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS_
WHITTAKER & CO.
2 WHITE HART STREET, PATERNOSTER SQUARE
LONDON, AND NEW YORK
1912
THIS NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION
IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMORY OF MY LATE FATHER
JOHN BEAUMONT,
PROFESSOR OF TEXTILE INDUSTRIES
THE YORKSHIRE COLLEGE, LEEDS,
1875-1889.
PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION.
Three years ago the first edition of my work on _Woollen and Worsted
Cloth Manufacture_ appeared, and in the preface of the book I observed
that should it be satisfactorily appreciated I would write other
treatises on specific branches of textile designing and weaving.
Partially in fulfilment of this promise, and partially because I have
frequently been requested by designers, manufacturers, and students who
have attended my lectures on textile colouring at Leeds, Huddersfield,
and other places, to prepare a text-book on the application of colours
to woven fabrics, this volume has been written, which, to use the
hackneyed prefatory phrase, _is intended to meet a long-felt want_.
Though there are several useful works on Colour--to wit, those of
Chevreul, Rood, Benson, Hay, Field, Maxwell, and Guichard--dealing
with its scientific phases, yet they can scarcely be said to lend that
kind of help to the student of applied design that is needed; hence
the necessity of this handbook, which is the first treatise published
professing to treat exclusively of the colouring of woven styles.
During the last fifteen years various efforts have been made to teach
textile designing and manufacturing systematically, and to specify
the principles which underlie the origination of pattern in the
loom: what to some extent was, previously, haphazard work, inasmuch
as there were no schools for teaching textile technology, and those
apprenticed in the mill were generally allowed to glean information
as best they could, has now become an exact science. Colouring,
however, though practically of primary importance in design, has not
been so efficiently taught as some branches of textile manufacturing.
The object of this book is, therefore, to supply as far as possible a
complete scheme of textile colouring, and to demonstrate the methods of
applying fancy shades to all descriptions of woven manufactures.
Referring briefly to the plan of the book: In the early chapters the
pigment and light theories of colour are expounded, and also the
attributes and qualities of colours, and the laws of contrast and
harmony. Subsequently, the technicalities characterizing woven colour
combinations are analyzed _in extenso_.
As the initiatory method of introducing tints and shades into fabrics
consists in blending raw materials of divers colours, the art of
mixing to obtain artistic mingled compositions is at the outset
fully considered. This part of the subject is possibly of the first
importance to those engaged in designing fancy tweeds and kindred
classes of woollen goods.
After having treated of the combination of shades in “blending,”
reference is made to the principles of developing simple patterns by
amalgamating warp and weft yarns. The various kinds of stripe, check,
mixture, and figured effects, and the tinting of all types of single,
backed, and double cloths, of combination patterns, of fabrics figured
in the warp, in the weft, and in both warp and weft, are all treated of
at length. Woollen, worsted, cotton, and silk fabrics, and the specific
styles of colouring applicable to each, have also obtained detailed
notice.
Many of the patterns printed on the plates have been woven at the
Yorkshire College under my supervision, and are now published for the
first time; while the other figures, with the exception of a small
number appearing in the _Textile Recorder_ in articles I have written
for that journal, and which the Editor has kindly permitted me to
use, have been specially prepared for this book. It need scarcely
be observed that the coloured illustrations are unique, being exact
representations of the woven textures.
I have pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness to my publishers, who
have done all in their power to meet my wishes in the execution of the
plates of woven samples.
R. B.
PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.
This Work has been rewritten and enlarged. Numerous original
illustrations have been added in the text and also to the coloured
plates, which should enhance its value to the Textile Colourist,
whether Student or Expert.
A chapter has also been prepared on Colour Standardization, the scheme
for which has been originated and developed in the Textile Industries
Department of the Leeds University, under my supervision and in
collaboration with Mr Thos. Hollis, Lecturer in Yarn Manufacture.
In reading the proof sheets, I acknowledge the help of Miss Clara
Benton, of the Clothworkers’ Museum of the University.
I am indebted to my Publishers for the regard and consideration they
have had to my wishes in the preparation of the Book.
R. B.
UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS,
1911.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
THEORIES OF COLOUR.
PAGE
1. Elements of Woven Pattern--2. Occurrence and Utility
of Colour in Loom Productions--3. Treatment of
Colour in Relation to Textiles--4. Methods of Using
Colour in Textiles--5. Colour Phenomena--6. Analysis
of Light--7. Utility of Prismatic Experiments--8.
Schemes of Colouring--9. Primary Colours--10.
Compound Colours--11. The Three Constants of
Colour--12. Temperature of Colours 1-19