CHAPTER II.

Remarkably Fertile Soil.--Valuable Native Woods.--Mexican Flora.--Coffee

and Tobacco.--Mineral Products.--Silver Mines.--Sugar Lands.--

Manufactories.--Cortez's Presents to Charles V.--Water Power.--Coal

Measures.--Railroads.--Historic Locality.--Social Characteristics.--

People divided into Castes.--Peonage.--Radical Progress.--Education

and the Priesthood.--A Threshing Machine.--Social Etiquette.--

Political Organization of the Government.--Mexico the Synonym of

Barbarism.--Production and Business Handicapped by an Excessive

Tariff.

Mexico is remarkable for the fertility and peculiar productiveness of

her soil, both of a vegetable and mineral character, though the former

is very largely dependent upon irrigation, and almost everywhere suffers

for want of intelligent treatment. As a striking proof of the fertility

of the soil, an able writer upon the subject tells us, among other

statistical facts, that while wheat cultivated in France and some other

countries averages but six grains for one planted, Mexican soil gives an

average product of twenty-two times the amount of seed which is sown.

Humboldt was surprised at this when it was reported to him, and took

pains to verify the fact, finding the statement to be absolutely

correct. Being situated partly in the tropics and partly in the

temperate zone, its vegetable products partake of both regions, and are

varied in the extreme. In the hot lands are dense forests of rosewood,

mahogany, and ebony, together with dyewoods of great commercial value,

while in the temperate and cooler districts the oak and pine are

reasonably abundant. It must be admitted, however, that those districts

situated near populous neighborhoods have been nearly denuded of their

growth during centuries of waste and destruction by the conquering

Spaniards. From this scarcity of commercial wood arises the absence of

framed houses, and the universal use of stone and clay, or adobe, for

building purposes. There is valuable wood enough in certain districts,

which is still being wasted. The sleepers of the Monterey and Mexican

Gulf railway are nearly all of ebony. Attention having been called to

the fact, orders have been issued to save this wood for shipment to our

Northern furniture manufacturers. Iron ties and sleepers are being

substituted on the trunk lines of the railways as fast as the wooden

ones decay, being found so much more durable. Those used on the Vera

Cruz line are imported from England; on the Mexican Central, from the

United States. There is a low, scrubby growth of wood on the table-lands

and mountain sides, which is converted by the peons into charcoal and

transported on the backs of the burros (jackasses) long distances for

economical use in the cities and villages. All the delicious fruits of

the West Indies are abundantly produced in the southern section, and all

the substantial favorites of our Northern and Western States thrive

luxuriantly in her middle and northern divisions. Some of the cultivated

berries are remarkably developed; the strawberry, for instance, thrives

beyond all precedent in central Mexico, and while larger, it is no less

delicately flavored than our own choice varieties. The flora throughout

Mexico is exceedingly rich and varied, botanists having recognized over

ten thousand families of plants indigenous to the soil. It appeared to

the writer, however, that while the color of the flowers was intensified

above that of our Northern States, their fragrance was not so well

defined. Even the soft green mosses threw out a star-like blossom of

tiny proportions, which seemed almost as full of expression as human

eyes, while they emitted a subdued fragrance. The best-grown coffee of

the country is in our estimation equal to the best grades of Mocha or

Java, while the tobacco produced in several of the states compares

favorably with the much-lauded brands of Cuba. The most fertile regions

of Mexico lie on the east and west, where the districts decline abruptly

from the great plateau, or table-land, towards the coast.

The Monterey and Mexican Gulf railway has lately opened access to most

excellent land, suitable for sugar plantations, equal to the best in

Louisiana devoted to this purpose, and which can be bought for a mere

song, as the saying is. These lands are better adapted to sugar raising

than those of the State just named, because frost is here unknown. In

the opening of these tropical districts by railroad, connected with our

Southern system, we have offered us the opportunity to secure all the

products which we now get from Cuba. These staples are equal in quality,

and can be landed at our principal commercial centres at a much less

cost than is paid for shipments from that island. Such is the arbitrary

rule of Spain in Cuba, and the miserable political condition of her

people, that all business transacted in her ports is handicapped by

regulations calculated to drive commerce away from her shores. The fact

should also be recalled that while Mexico produces every article which

we import from Cuba, she has over five times the population to consume

our manufactures and products, rendering her commercial intercourse with

us just so much more important. At present, or rather heretofore, she

has sought to exchange her native products almost wholly with Europe,

through the port of Vera Cruz; but on account of the excellent

facilities afforded by the Mexican Central Railroad the volume of trade

has already begun to set towards the United States. While upon the

subject it may be mentioned incidentally that the way business of this

railroad has exceeded all calculations, and yet it is but partially

developed, the rolling stock being quite inadequate to the demand for

freight transportation.

In minerals it would seem as though the list of products was unequaled.

At present the silver mines are undoubtedly the greatest source of

wealth to the country, though under proper conditions the agricultural

capacity of the land would doubtless exceed all other interests in

pecuniary value, as indeed is the case in most other gold and silver

producing countries. The principal mineral products of Mexico are iron,

tin, cinnabar, silver, gold, alum, sulphur, and lead. In the state of

Durango, large masses of the best magnetic iron ore are found, which at

some future day will supply the material for a great and useful

industry. Other iron mines exist, and some have been utilized to a

limited extent. Coal is found in abundance, notably in the states of

Oaxaca, Sonora, Nuevo Leon, and Coahuila. These coal measures are

particularly valuable in a country many parts of which are treeless and

without economical fuel. The total coinage of silver ore in the mints of

Mexico to this date, we were intelligently informed, amount to the

enormous aggregate of three thousand millions of dollars, to which may

be added, in arriving at the total product of the mines, the amount

exported in bars and the total value consumed in manufactures. This last

item amounts to a much larger figure than one who has not given the

subject careful thought would be prepared to admit.

Mexico can hardly be spoken of as a manufacturing country, in the usual

acceptation of the term, though the Spaniards found that cotton cloth

had been made here long before their advent. It is also a fact that such

domestic goods as the masses of her population absolutely require she

produces within her own limits by native industry, such as cotton cloth,

blankets, woollen cloth, cotton shawls, leather goods, saddlery, boots,

shoes, hats, and other articles of personal wear. There are over twenty

large woollen mills in the country, several for the production of

carpeting, and many cotton mills, the product of the latter being almost

wholly the unbleached article, which is universally worn by the masses.

The cotton mills are many of them large, and worthy of special

commendation for the healthful and beneficent system adopted in them, as

well as for the excellence of their output. The number of factories of

all sorts in the country is estimated at about one hundred. There is

nearly enough sugar produced on the plantations to satisfy the home

demand, an industry which might be indefinitely extended. Climate, soil,

and the rate of wages all favor such an idea. The Sandwich Islands,

which have been so largely resorted to for the establishment of sugar

plantations, cannot show one half the advantages which lie unimproved on

the new lines of the Mexican railways. If a capitalist were considering

the purpose of establishing a large sugar plantation, the fact of cheap

and easy transportation to market being here close at hand should alone

settle the question as between the islands referred to and this

locality. Hardware and cutlery, of excellent quality and in large

quantities, are manufactured. The paper, household furniture, pottery,

crockery, and even glass generally in use, are of home production, which

will give the reader an idea of the present native resources of the

country, developed not by fortuitous aid, but under the most depressing

circumstances.

It will be remembered that Cortez, soon after he landed in Mexico, sent

to Charles V. specimens of native cotton fabrics, so that probably

cotton was not only grown but manufactured here as early as in any other

country. The historians tell us that the Aztecs made as large and as

delicate webs as those of Holland. Besides working in textile fabrics,

this ancient people wrought metals, hewed stone, and manufactured

pottery of delicate forms and artistic finish. The misfortune of one

country is the gain of another. The paucity of fuel wherewith to obtain

steam power, and the lack of rivers capable of giving water power, must

always prevent Mexico from being a competing country, as to

manufactures, with the United States, where these essentials abound. She

has, however, only to turn her attention to the export of fruits, and

other products which are indigenous to her sunny land, to acquire ample

means wherewith to purchase from this country whatever she may desire in

the line of luxuries or necessities.

That a portion of Mexico is utterly sterile and unavailable is just as

much a fact as that we have such regions in the western part of the

United States. There are large sections here which suffer from annual

droughts, but which might be redeemed by irrigation, the facilities for

which in most cases are near enough at hand, only requiring to be

properly engineered. It is not correct to paint everything of rose-color

in the republic; it has its serious drawbacks, like all other lands

under the sun. The want of water is the prevailing trouble, but, like

Australia, this country has enough of the precious liquid if properly

conserved and adapted. The Rio Grande produces more water in a

twelvemonth than the great Murray River of Australia, which is flooded

at certain seasons and is a "dry run" at others. As we have intimated,

the absence of available wood and coal will prevent the growth of

manufactures in Mexico, at least, until the coal deposits are opened up

by railroads. The coal measures are not yet fully surveyed, or

developed, but sufficient has been shown to demonstrate their great

extent and valuable qualities. When these coal deposits shall be brought

by means of railroads, already projected or in course of construction,

within the reach of the business centres, and deliverable to consumers

at reasonable prices, a great impetus to manufactures will be realized

through this article of prime necessity. A company has lately been

formed in England to explore and develop these coal fields, for which

purpose a liberal concession has been obtained from the Mexican

government. This is only one more evidence of the fact that foreign

capital and foreign enterprise are flowing towards the country. It will

be observed also that these new companies are mostly English; some are

German; but there are comparatively few Americans engaged in these

enterprises. We have seen it in print that Mexico was fast becoming

Americanized, but this is a mistake; there are many more Europeans than

Americans in Mexico, as we use the word Americans, that is, people of

the United States.

Where water power is to be obtained, it is improved to the utmost, as at

Queretaro, where a small river is made to turn the largest overshot

wheel which has ever been constructed, furnishing power in the famous

Hercules Cotton Factory of that city, which gives regular employment to

many hundred native men and women.

An improved and stable system of government and increased railroad

facilities are doing wonders for our neighbors across the Rio Grande.

The iron horse and steel rail are great promoters of civilization. It

would be impossible to overestimate the importance of this branch of

progress in the interests of both Mexico and the United States, by which

means we are constantly becoming more and more intimately united. The

Mexican Central Railroad has lately completed its connection with

Tampico on the Gulf by a branch road running almost due east from its

main trunk, starting near or at Aguas Calientes; another, running about

due west towards the port of San Blas on the Pacific, has already been

completed as far as Guadalajara, starting from the main trunk at

Irapuato. The former city being the present terminus of the road, is

considered the second in importance in Mexico. When the narrow space

still remaining is opened by rail, the continent will be crossed by

railway trains between the Atlantic and Pacific at a narrow and most

available point. The increase of way passengers and freight upon this

road during the past two years is a source of surprise and of

gratification to the company. The rolling stock is being monthly

increased, having proved to be inadequate to the business.

The Tampico branch of this road passes through scenery which experienced

travelers pronounce to be equal in grandeur to any on this continent.

Indeed, had the appalling engineering difficulties to be encountered

been fully realized before the road was begun, it is doubtful if it

would have been built. The cost has slightly exceeded ten million

dollars. That which seemed easy enough, as designed upon paper, proved

to be a herculean task in the consummation. It was a portion of the

original plan, when the Mexican Central Railroad was surveyed, to build

this branch, and six years after the completion of the main trunk the

Tampico road was duly opened. The distance from this harbor on the Gulf

of Mexico to Aguas Calientes is a trifle over four hundred miles. With

the improvements already under way, it will be rendered the best seaport

on the Gulf, infinitely superior, especially in point of safe anchorage,

to the open roadstead of Vera Cruz. Every ton of freight is now landed

at the latter port by lighters, and must continue to be so from the

nature of the coast; while in a couple of years at farthest Tampico will

have a most excellent harbor, perfectly sheltered, where the largest

steamships can lie at the wharf and discharge their cargoes. We are

sorry to say that San Blas, on the Pacific side, does not promise to

make so desirable a port. It is even suggested that Mazatalan, further

north, should be made the terminus of this branch road. American

enterprise and progressive ideas are peacefully but surely

revolutionizing a country where all previous change has been

accomplished by the sword, and all advance has been from scaffold to

scaffold. It would seem as though political convulsions formed one of

the conditions of national progress. In our own instance, through what

seas of blood had we to wade in abolishing that long standing curse of

this land, negro slavery. The Czar of Russia freed the millions of

serfs in his empire by a bold and manly ukase; but the nobility, who

counted their wealth by the number of human beings whom they held in

thralldom, have not yet forgiven the Czar for doing so. Revenge for that

philanthropic act is still the motive of the conspiracies which

occasionally come to the surface in that country. "Every age has its

problem," says Heinrich Heine, "by solving which humanity is helped

forward."

The federal capital of Mexico is in the centre of a country of

surpassing richness and beauty, but from the day of its foundation,

between seven and eight hundred years ago, it has been the theatre of

constant revolutions and bitter warfare, where hecatombs of human beings

have been sacrificed upon idolatrous altars, where a foreign religion

has been established at the spear's point, through torture by fire and

the rack, and where rivers of blood have been ruthlessly spilled in

battle, sometimes in repelling a foreign foe, but only too often in

still more cruel civil wars. Some idea of the chronic political

upheavals of the country may be had from the brief statement that there

have been fifty-four presidents, one regency, and one emperor in the

last sixty-two years, and nearly every change of government has been

effected by violence. Between 1821 and 1868, the form of government was

changed ten times.

Politeness and courtesy are as a rule characteristics of the intelligent

and middle classes of the people of Mexico, and are also observable in

intercourse with the humbler ranks of the masses. They have heretofore

looked upon Americans as being hardly more than semi-civilized. Those

with whom they have been most brought in contact have been reckless and

adventurous frontiersmen, drovers, Texans, cow boys, often individuals

who have left their homes in the Northern or Middle States with the

stigma of crime upon them. The inference they have drawn from contact

with such representatives of our population has been but natural. If

Mexicans travel abroad, they generally do so in Europe, sailing from

Vera Cruz, and they know comparatively little of us socially. It is

equally true that we have been in the habit of regarding the Mexicans in

much the same light. This mutual feeling is born of ignorance, and the

nearer relation into which the two countries are now brought by means of

the excellent system of railroads is rapidly dispelling the

misconception on both sides of the Rio Grande. The masses, especially

the peons, are far more illiterate than in this country, and are easily

led by the higher intelligence of the few; nor have the Mexicans yet

shown much real progress in the purpose of promoting general education,

though incipient steps have been taken in that direction in most of

their cities, affording substantial proof of the progressive tendencies

of the nation. We heard in the city of Mexico of free night schools

being organized, designed for the improvement of adults.

A division of the populace into castes rules here almost as imperiously

as it does in India, and it will require generations of close contact

with a more cultured and democratic people before these servile ideas

can be obliterated. Though we hear little or nothing said about this

matter, yet to an observant eye it has daily and hourly demonstration.

The native Indians of Mexico are of a different race from their

employers. Originally conquered and enslaved by the Spaniards, though

they have since been emancipated by law, they are still kept in a quasi

condition of peonage by superior wit and finesse. The proprietor of a

large hacienda, who owns land, say ten miles square, manages, by

advancing money to them, to keep the neighboring people in his debt.

They are compelled by necessity to purchase their domestic articles of

consumption from the nearest available supply, which is the storehouse

of the hacienda. Here they must pay the price which is demanded, let it

be never so unreasonable. This arrangement is all against the peon, and

all in favor of the employer. The lesser party to such a system is

pretty sure to be cheated right and left, especially as the estate is

nearly always administered by an agent and not by the owner himself.

There are some notable exceptions to this, but these only prove the

rule. So long as the employes owe the proprietor money, they are bound

by law to remain in his service. Wages are so low--say from twenty-five

to thirty-five cents per day--that were the natives of a thrifty,

ambitious, and provident disposition, which is by no means the case,

they could not save a dollar towards their pecuniary emancipation. The

laboring classes seem to have no idea of economy or of providing for the

morrow. Food, coarse food, and amusement for the present hour, that is

all they desire, and is all about which they seriously concern

themselves. The next score of years, while they will probably do much

for the country as regards commercial and intellectual improvement, will

prove fatal in a degree to the picturesqueness which now renders Mexico

so attractive. Radical progress in one direction must needs be

destructive in another, and while some of the allurements of her strong

individuality will disappear, her moral and physical status will be

greatly improved. Her ragged, half-naked people will don proper attire,

sacrificing the gaudy colors which now make every out-door scene

kaleidoscopic; a modern grain thresher will take the place of weary

animals plodding in a circle, treading out the grain; half-clad women at

the fountains will disappear, and iron pipes will convey water for

domestic use to the place of consumption. The awkward branch of crooked

wood now used to turn the soil will be replaced by the modern plough,

and reaping machines will relieve the weary backs of men, women, and

children, who slowly grub beneath a burning sun through the broad grain

fields. Irrigating streams will be made to flow by their own

gravitation, while the wooden bucket and well-sweep will become idle and

useless. Still, we are not among those who see only a bright side for

the future of the republic, nor do we believe so confidently as some

writers in her great natural resources. They are abundant, but not so

very exceptional as enthusiasts would have us believe. Aside from the

production of silver, which all must admit to be inexhaustible, she has

very little to boast of. It is doubtful if any other equal area in the

world possesses larger deposits of the precious metals, or has already

yielded to man more bountifully of them. We have seen it asserted by

careful and experienced writers, that one half of all the silver now in

use among the nations originally came from Mexico. Her real and

permanent progress is inevitable; but it will be very gradual, coming

not through her rich mines of gold and silver, but by the growth of her

agricultural and manufacturing interests; and if in a score of years she

can assume a position of respect and importance in the line of nations,

it is all that can reasonably be expected. If Mexico can but advance in

progressive ideas as rapidly during the next ten years as she has done

during the decade just past, the period we have named will be

abbreviated, and her condition will amount to a moral revolution.

Our sister republic has yet to accomplish two special and important

objects: first, the suppression of the secret and malign influence of

the Roman Catholic priesthood; and, secondly, the promotion of education

among the masses. Since the separation of church and state, in 1857,

education has made slow but steady advances. Most of the states have

adopted the system of compulsory education, penalties being affixed to

non-compliance with the law, and rewards decreed for those who

voluntarily observe the same. Though shorn of so large a degree of its

temporal powers, the church is still secretly active in its machinations

for evil. The vast army of non-producing, indolent priests is active in

one direction, namely, that for the suppression of all intelligent

progress, and the complete subjugation of the common people through

superstition and ignorance. A realization of the condition of affairs

may be had from the following circumstance related to us by a

responsible American resident. It must be remembered that the wheat,

which in some well-irrigated districts is the principal product, is

threshed by means of piling it up on the hard clay soil, and driving

goats, sheep, and burros over it. These animals trudge round and round,

with weary limbs, knee deep in the straw, for hours together, urged

forward by whips in the hands of men and boys, and thus the grain is

separated from the stalks. Of course the product threshed out in this

manner is contaminated with animal filth of all sorts. An enterprising

American witnessed this primitive process not long since, and on

returning to his northern home resolved to take back with him to Mexico

a modern threshing machine; and being more desirous to introduce it for

the benefit of the people than to make any money out of the operation,

he offered the machine at cost price. A native farmer was induced to put

one on trial, when it was at once found that it not only took the place

of a dozen men and boys, but also of twice that number of animals. This

was not all; the machine performed the work in less than one quarter of

the time required to do the same amount of work by the old method,

besides rendering the grain in a perfectly clear condition. This would

seem to be entirely satisfactory, and was so until it got to the ears of

the priests. They came upon the ground to see the machine work, and

were amazed. This would not answer, according to their ideas; from their

standpoint it was a dangerous innovation. What might it not lead to!

They therefore declared that the devil was in the machine, and

absolutely forbade the peons to work with it! Their threats and warnings

frightened their ignorant, servile parishioners out of their wits. The

machine was accordingly shipped north of the Rio Grande, whence it came,

to prevent the natives from destroying it, and cattle still tread out

the grain, which they render dirty and unfit for food, except in the

most populous centres, where modern machinery is being gradually

introduced.

"The clogging influence of the Romish Church," says Hon. John H. Rice,

"upon civilization and progress are seen in its opposition to the

education and elevation of the common people; in its intolerant warfare

against freedom of conscience, and all other forms of religious worship,

frequently displayed in persecutions, and sometimes in personal

injuries; and in its stolid opposition to the onward march of

development and improvement, unless directed to its own advantage."

The stranger who comes to Mexico with the expectation of enjoying his

visit must bring with him a liberal and tolerant spirit. He must be

prepared to encounter a marked difference of race, of social and

business life, together with the absence of many of such domestic

comforts as habit has rendered almost necessities. The exercise of a

little philosophy will reconcile him to the exigencies of the case, and

render endurable here what would be inadmissible at home. A coarse,

ill-cooked dinner, untidy service, and an unappeased appetite must be

compensated by active interest in grand and peculiar scenery; a hard bed

and a sleepless night, by the intelligent enjoyment of famous places

clothed with historic interest; foul smells and rank odors, by the

charming study of a unique people, extraordinarily interesting in their

wretched squalor and nakedness. Though the stranger is brought but

little in contact therewith, owing to the briefness of his visit to the

country, quite enough is casually seen and experienced to show that

there is no lack of culture and refinement, no absence of warmth of

heart and gracious hospitality, among the more favored classes of

Mexico, both in the northern and southern sections of the country.

Underneath the exaggerated expressions so common to Spanish etiquette,

there is yet a real cordiality which the discriminating visitor will not

fail to recognize. If, on a first introduction and visit, he is told

that the house and all it contains is his own, and that the proprietor

is entirely at his service, he will neither take this literally nor as a

burlesque, but will receive the assurance for what it really signifies,

that is, as conveying a spirit of cordiality. These expressions are as

purely conventional as though the host asked simply and pleasantly after

his guest's health, and mean no more.

If progress is and has been slow in Mexico, it must be remembered that

every advance has been consummated under most discouraging

circumstances, and yet that the charitable, educational, artistic, and

technological institutions already firmly established, are quietly

revolutionizing the people through the most peaceful but effective

agencies.

As to government organization, the several states are represented in

congress by two senators each, with one representative to the lower

house from each section comprising a population of forty thousand. The

federal district is under the exclusive jurisdiction of congress. The

division of power as accorded to the several states is almost precisely

like that of our own government. The federal authority is administered

by a president, aided by six cabinet ministers at the head of the

several departments of state, such as the minister of foreign affairs,

of the treasury, secretary of war, and so on. Thus it will be seen that

the republic of Mexico has adopted our own constitution as her model

throughout.

As long as heavy and almost prohibitory duties exist in Mexico, and are

exacted on nearly everything except the production of the precious

metals, the development of her other resources must be circumscribed.

With a rich soil and plenty of cheap labor, she ought to be able to

export many staples which would command our markets, especially as

regards coffee, cotton, and wool. If the custom-houses on each side of

the boundary between this country and Mexico could be abolished, both

would reap an immense pecuniary benefit, while the sister republic would

realize an impetus in every desirable respect which nothing else could

so quickly bring about. Wealth and population would rapidly flow into

this southern land, whose agriculture would thrive as it has never yet

done, and its manufactories would double in number as well as in

pecuniary gain. It requires no argument to show that our neighbors could

not be thus largely benefited without our own country also reaping an

equivalent advantage.

The very name of Mexico has been for years the synonym of barbarism; but

the traveled and reading public have gradually come to realize that it

is a country embracing many large and populous cities, where the

amenities of modern civilization abound, where elegance and culture are

freely manifested, and where great wealth has been accumulated in the

pursuit of legitimate business by the leading citizens. The national

capital will ere-long contain a population of half a million, while the

many new and costly edifices now erecting in the immediate environs are

of a spacious and elegant character, adapted, of course, to the climate,

but yet combining many European and American elements of advanced

domestic architecture.

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