GOLDEN SEAL CULTIVATION.
I learned when a boy, by actual experience, that Golden Seal and
Ginseng will not grow in open cultivated fields or gardens. I tried
it faithfully. The soil must be virgin, or made practically so by the
application of actual "new land" in such quantities that to prepare
an acre for the proper growth of these plants would be almost
impossible. And to furnish and keep in repair artificial shade for,
say, an acre, would cost quite a little fortune. Of course one may
cultivate a few hundred or few thousand in artificially prepared beds
and shaded by artificial means, but to raise these plants
successfully in anything like large quantities we must let nature
herself prepare the beds and the shade.
When we follow nature closely we will not be troubled with diseases,
such as blight and fungus. I know this by actual experience dear, and
therefore dear to me.
Plants propagate themselves naturally by seedage, root suckers, and
by root formation upon the tips of pendulous boughs coming in contact
with the ground. Man propagates them artificially in various ways, as
by layering, cuttings, grafting or budding, in all of which he must
follow nature. The Golden Seal plant is readily propagated by any of
the three following methods: (1) by seed; (2) by division of the
large roots; (3) by suckers, or small plants which form on the large
fibrous roots.
The seed berries should be gathered as soon as ripe, and mashed into
a pulp, and left alone a day or two in a vessel, then washed out
carefully and the seed stored in boxes of sandy loam on layers of
rock moss, the moss turned bottom side up and the seed scattered
thickly over it, then cover with about one-half inch of sandy loam,
then place another layer of moss and seed, until you have four or
five layers in a box. The box may be of any convenient size. The
bottom of the box should be perforated with auger holes to secure
good drainage. If water be allowed to stand upon the seeds they will
not germinate, neither will they germinate if they become dry. The
seeds should be kept moist but not wet. They may be sown in the fall,
but, I think the better way, by far, is to keep your box of seeds in
a cellar where they will not freeze until the latter part of winter
or very early spring. If your seeds have been properly stratified and
properly kept you will find by the middle of January that each little
black seed has burst open and is wearing a beautiful shining golden
vest. In fact, it is beginning to germinate, and the sooner it is put
into the seed-bed the better. If left too long in the box you will
find, to your displeasure, a mass of tangled golden thread-like
rootlets and leaflets, a total loss.
To prepare a seed-bed, simply rake off the forest leaves from a spot
of ground where the soil is rich and loamy, then with your rake make
a shallow bed, scatter the seeds over it, broadcast, being careful
not to sow them too thick. Firm the earth upon them with the back of
the hoe or tramp them with the feet. This bed should not be near a
large tree of any kind, and should be protected from the sun,
especially from noon to 3 P. M.
The Golden Seal seedling has two round seed leaves upon long stems
during the first season of its growth. These seed leaves do not
resemble the leaves of the Golden Seal plant. The second and usually
the third years the plant has one leaf. These seedlings may be set in
rows in beds for cultivation in the early spring of the second or
third year. This plant grows very slowly from seed for the first two
or three years, after which the growth is more satisfactory.
By the second method, i. e., by division of the large roots, simply
cut the roots up into pieces about one-fourth inch long and stratify
in the same way as recommended for seeds, and by spring each piece
will have developed a bud, and will be ready to transplant into beds
for cultivation. This is a very satisfactory and a very successful
method of propagating this plant. The plants grow off strong and
robust from the start and soon become seed bearing.
[Illustration: Young Golden Seal Plant in Bloom.]
By the third method we simply let nature do the work. If the plants
are growing in rich, loose, loamy soil, so the fibrous roots may
easily run in every direction, the whole bed will soon be thickly set
with plants. These may be taken up and transplanted or may be allowed
to grow and develop where they are.
This is the method by which I propagate nearly all of my plants. It
is a natural way and the easiest of the three ways to practice.
As to the proper soil and location for a Golden Seal garden I would
recommend a northern or northeastern exposure. The soil should be
well drained and capable of a thrifty growth of deciduous trees. It
should contain an ample supply of humus made of leaf mold. It will
then be naturally loose and adapted to the growth of Golden Seal. Cut
out all undergrowth and leave for shade trees that will grow into
value. I am growing locust trees for posts in my Golden Seal garden.
I do not think fruit trees of any kind suitable for this purpose.
In preparing the ground for planting simply dig a trench with a
mattock where you intend to set a row. This loosens up the soil and
makes the setting easy. Set the plants in this row four to six inches
apart. For convenience I make the rows up and down the hill. In
setting spread the fibrous roots out each way from the large main
root and cover with loose soil about one to two inches deep, firming
the soil around the plant with the hands. Be very careful not to put
the fibrous roots in a wad down in a hole. They do not grow that way.
Plants may be set any time through the summer, spring or fall, if the
weather he not too dry. The tops will sometimes die down, in which
case the root will generally send up a new top in a few days. If it
does not it will form a bud and prepare for growth the next spring.
The root seldom if ever dies from transplanting. I know of no plant
that is surer to grow when transplanted than Golden Seal. I make the
rows one foot to fifteen inches apart. It does not matter as it will
soon fill the spaces with sucker plants any way.
The cultivation of Golden Seal is very simple. If you have a deep,
loose soil filled with the necessary humus your work will be to rid
the plot of weeds, and each fall add to the fall of forest leaves a
mulch of rotten leaves.
Do not set the plants deeper than they grew in a natural state, say
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Spread the fibrous roots out in all directions
and cover with leaf mold or some fine, loamy new soil. Water if the
ground be at all dry. Then mulch with old forest leaves that have
begun to decay. Let the mulch be about three or four inches deep and
held on by a few light brush. The wind would blow the leaves away if
not thus held in place. Be careful, however, not to press the leaves
down with weights.
[Illustration: Golden Seal Plants.]
Remove the brush in the early spring, but let the leaves remain. The
plants will come up thru them all right. This plant grows best in a
soil made up entirely of decayed vegetation, such as old leaf beds
and where old logs have rotted and fallen back to earth. If weeds or
grass begin to grow in your beds pull them up before they get a
start. Be careful to do this. Do not hoe or dig up the soil any way,
The fibrous roots spread out in all directions just under the mulch.
To dig this up would very much injure the plants.
I think the plants should be set in rows about one foot apart, and
the plants three or four inches apart in the rows. This would require
about 1,000 plants to set one square rod. My Golden Seal garden is in
a grove of young locust trees that are rapidly growing into posts and
cash. The leaves drop down upon my Golden Seal and mulch it
sufficiently. The locust belongs to the Leguminous family of plants,
so while the leaves furnish the necessary shade they drink in the
nitrogen from the atmosphere and deposit great stores of it in the
soil. This makes the soil porous and loose and gives the plant a very
healthy dark green appearance.
We have only to follow the natural manner of the growth of the Golden
Seal to be successful in its culture. Select a piece of sloping land,
so as to be well drained, on the north or northeast side of the
hill--virgin soil if possible. Let the soil be rich and loamy, full
of leaf mold and covered with rotting leaves and vegetation. This is
the sort of soil that Golden Seal grows in, naturally.
It is hard to fix up a piece of ground, artificially, as nature
prepares it, for a wild plant to grow in. So select a piece if
possible that nature has prepared for you. Do not clear your land.
Only cut away the larger timber. Leave the smaller stuff to grow and
shade your plants. There is no shade that will equal a natural one
for Ginseng or Golden Seal.
Now, take a garden line and stretch it up and down the hill the
distance you want your bed to be wide. Mark the place for the row
along the line with a mattock, and dig up the soil to loosen it, so
as to set the plants, or, rather, plant the roots easily. With a
garden dibble, or some other like tool make a place for each plant.
Set the plants 4 to 6 inches apart in the row. The crown of the plant
or bud should be set about 1 inch beneath the surface.
Firm the earth around the plant carefully. This is an important point
and should be observed in setting any plant. More plants are lost
each year by carelessly leaving the earth loose over and around the
roots than from any other cause. Do not leave a trench in the row.
This may start a wash. Let the rows be about 1 foot apart. If land is
no item to you, the rows may be further apart. They will, if properly
cared for, in a few years, by sending up sprouts from the roots, fill
up the end completely.
[Illustration: Thrifty Golden Seal Plant.]
When you have finished setting your bed, cover it with a good mulch
of rotten leaves from the forest and throw upon them some brush to
keep the wind from blowing them away. By spring the leaves will
settle down compactly and you will be pleased to see your plants grow
luxuriously. October and November are the best months of the year in
which to set Golden Seal plants. They are, also, the months in which
it should be dug for the market. It may be set in the spring if the
plants are near by. The roots will always grow if not allowed to dry
before transplanting.
If your bed does not supply you with plants fast enough by suckering,
you may propagate plants by cutting the roots into pieces about
one-fourth inch long, leaving as many fibrous roots on each piece as
possible. These cuttings should be made in September or October and
placed in boxes of sand over winter. The boxes should be kept in a
cellar where they will not freeze. By spring these pieces will have
developed a bud and be ready for transplanting, which should be done
just as early as the frost leaves the ground so it can be worked.
All the culture needed by this plant is to mulch the beds with forest
leaves each fall and keep it clear of grass and field weeds. Wild
weeds do not seem to injure it.
Golden Seal transplants easily and responds readily to proper
cultivation. There is no witchcraft in it. The seeds ripen in a large
red berry in July to germinate, if planted at once, the next spring.
The fibrous roots, if stratified in sand loam in the autumn, will
produce fine plants. Any good, fresh, loamy soil, that is partially
shaded will produce a good Golden Seal.
You want soil that is in good tilth, full of humus and life, and free
from grasses and weeds. It will stand a great deal more sunlight than
Ginseng. It will also produce a crop of marketable roots much quicker
than Ginseng. There is no danger of an over supplied market, as the
whims of a nation changing, or of a boycott of a jealous people. I
have my little patch of Golden Seal that I am watching and with which
I am experimenting.
I want to say right here that you do not need a large capital to
begin the culture of these plants that are today being exploited by
different parties for cultivation. Just get a little plot of virgin
soil, say six yards long by one yard wide and divide it into two
equal lots. Then secure from the woods or from some one who has stock
to sell about 100 plants of each, then cultivate or care for your
apron garden and increase your plantation from your beds as you
increase in wisdom and in the knowledge of the culture of these
plants.
The Bible says "Despise not the day of small things." Do not, for
your own sake, invest a lot of money in a "Seng" or Seal plantation
or take stock in any exploiter's scheme to get rich quick by the
culture of these plants. Some one has written a book entitled
"Farming by Inches." It is a good book and should be in every
gardener's library. Now, if there be any crops that will pay a big
dividend on the investment farmed by inches "Seng" and Seal are the
crops.