CULTIVATION.
The forest is the home of the Ginseng plant and the closer we follow
nature the better results we get. I am growing it now under
artificial shade; also in the forest with natural shade, says an Ohio
party. A good shade is made by setting posts in the ground, nail
cross-pieces on these, then cover with brush. You must keep out the
sun and let in the rain and this will do both. Another good shade is
made by nailing laths across, allowing them to be one-half inch
apart. This will allow the rain to pass thru and will keep the sun
out. Always when using lath for shade allow them to run east and
west, then the sun can't shine between them.
In selecting ground for location of a Ginseng garden, the north side
of a hill is best, altho where the ground is level it will grow well.
Don't select a low marshy piece of ground nor a piece too high, all
you want is ground with a good drainage and moisture. It is the
opinion of some people that in a few years the market will be glutted
by those growing it for sale. I will venture to say that I don't
think we can grow enough in fifty years to over-run the market. The
demand is so great and the supply so scarce it will be a long time
before the market will be affected by the cultivated root.
The market has been kept up entirely in the past by the wild root,
but it has been so carelessly gathered that it is almost entirely
exhausted, so in order to supply this demand we must cultivate this
crop. I prepare my beds five feet wide and as long as convenient. I
commence by covering ground with a layer of good, rich, loose dirt
from the woods or well-rotted manure. Then I spade it up, turning
under the rich dirt. Then I cover with another layer of the same kind
of dirt in which I plant my seed and roots.
After I have them planted I cover the beds over with a layer of
leaves or straw to hold the moisture, which I leave on all winter to
protect them from the cold. In the spring I remove a part of the
leaves (not all), they will come up thru the leaves as they do in
their wild forest.
All the attention Ginseng needs after planting is to keep the weeds
out of the beds. Never work the soil after planting or you will
disturb the roots. It is a wild plant and we must follow nature as
near as possible.
Ginseng can be profitably grown on small plots if it is cared for
properly. There are three things influencing its growth. They are
soil, shade and treatment. In its wild state the plant is found
growing in rich leaf mold of a shady wood. So in cultivation one must
conform to many of the same conditions in which the plant is found
growing wild.
In starting a bed of Ginseng the first thing to be considered is the
selection of soil. Tho your soil be very rich it is a good plan to
cover it with three or four inches of leaf mold and spade about ten
inches deep so that the two soils will be well mixed. Artificial
shade is preferable at all times because trees take nearly all the
moisture and strength out of the soil.
When the bed is well fitted, seed may be sown or plants may be set
out. The latter is the quicker way to obtain results. If seeds are
sown the young grower is apt to become discouraged before he sees any
signs of growth, as it requires eighteen months for their
germination. The cheapest way to get plants is to learn to recognize
them at sight, then go to the woods and try to find them. With a
little practice you will be able to tell them at some distance. Much
care should be taken in removing the plant from the soil. The fewer
fibers you break from the root, the more likely it will be to grow.
Care should also be taken not to break the bud on top of the root. It
is the stalk of the plant starting for the next year, and is very
noticeable after June 1st. If it be broken or harmed the root will
have no stalk the next season.
It is best to start a Ginseng garden on a well drained piece of land,
says a Dodge County, Wisconsin, grower. Run the beds the way the hill
slopes. Beds should only be four to five feet wide so that they can
be reached, for walking on the beds is objectionable. Make your walks
about from four to six inches below the beds, for an undrained bed
will produce "root rot." The ground should be very rich and "mulchy."
Use well rotted horse manure in preparing the beds, for fresh manure
will heat and hurt the plants. Use plenty of woods dirt, but very
little manure of any kind.
Set plants about six inches each way, and if you want to increase the
size of the root, pinch off the seed bulb. In the fall when the tops
have died down, cover the beds about two inches deep with dead leaves
from the woods. We make our shades out of one-inch strips three
inches wide and common lath. The north and west fence should be more
tight to keep cold winds out. Eastern and southern side tight, two
feet from the ground. From the two feet to top you may use ordinary
staves from salt barrels or so nailed one inch apart. Have your
Ginseng garden close to the house, for Ginseng thieves become
numerous.
I was raised in the country on a farm and as near to nature as it is
possible to get, and have known a great deal of Ginseng from my youth
up. Twenty-five years ago it was 75 cents a pound, and now it is
worth ten times as much. Every one with any experience in such
matters knows that if radishes or turnips are planted in rich, old
soil that has been highly fertilized they will grow large and will be
strong, hot, pithy and unpalatable. If planted in rich, new soil,
they will be firm, crisp, juicy and sweet. This fact holds good with
Ginseng.
If planted in old ground that is highly fertilized, the roots will
grow large, but the flavor is altogether different from that of the
wild root, and no doubt specimens of large sizes are spongy and
unpalatable to the Celestials compared to that of the wild root.
If planted in rich, new ground and no strong fertilizer used,
depending entirely upon the rich woods soil for enriching the beds,
the flavor is bound to be exactly as that of the wild root. When the
growers wake up to this fact, and dig their roots before they become
too large, prices will be very satisfactory and the business will be
on a sound basis.
* * *
We will begin in a systematic way, with the location, planting and
preparing of the ground for the Ginseng garden, writes a successful
grower--C. H. Peterson--of Blue Earth County, Minn.
In choosing a location for a Ginseng garden, select one having a
well-drained soil. Ginseng thrives best in wood loam soil that is
cool and mellow, although any good vegetable garden soil will do very
well. A southern slope should be avoided, as the ground gets too warm
in summer and it also requires more shade than level or northern
slope does. It is also apt to sprout too early in the spring, and
there is some danger of its getting frosted, as the flower stem
freezes very easily and no seed is the result.
Then again if you locate your garden on too low ground the roots are
apt to rot and the freezing and thawing of wet ground is hard on
Ginseng. Laying out a garden nothing is more important than a good
system both for looks, convenience and the growth of your roots later
on. Do your work well as there is good money in raising Ginseng, and
for your time you will be well repaid. Don't make one bed here and
another there and a path where you happen to step, but follow some
plan for them. I have found by experience that the wider the beds
are, the better, providing that their width does not exceed the
distance that you can reach from each path to center of bed to weed.
For general purposes for beds 6 1/2 ft. is used for paths 1 1/2 ft. A
bed 6 1/2 ft. wide gives you 3 1/4 ft. to reach from each path to
center of bed without getting on the beds, which would not be
advisable. An 18 in. path is none too wide after a few years' growth,
as the plants nearly cover this with foliage. This size beds and
paths are just the right width for the system of lath shading I am
using, making the combined distance across bed and path 8 ft., or 16
ft. for two beds and two paths, just right to use a 1x4 rough 16 ft.
fencing board to run across top of posts described later on.
[Illustration: Plan for Ginseng Garden 24x40 Feet--Ground Plan one
line, overhead dotted.]
Now we will lay out the garden by setting a row of posts 8 ft. apart
the length you desire to make your garden. Then set another row 8 ft.
from first row running parallel with first row, and so on until
desired width of your garden has been reached. Be sure to have post
line up both ways and start even at ends. Be sure to measure
correctly. After all posts are set run a 1x4 in. rough fence board
across garden so top edge is even at top of post and nail to post.
The post should be about 8 ft. long so when set would be a trifle
over 6 ft. above ground. This enables a person to walk under shading
when completed. It is also cooler for your plants. In setting the
posts do not set them too firm, so they can be moved at top enough to
make them line up both ways. After the 1x4 in. fence board is put on
we will nail on double pieces.
Take a 1x6 rough fence board 16 ft. long and rip it so as to make two
strips, one 3 1/2 and the other 2 1/2 inches wide, lay the 3 1/2 in.
flat and set the 2 1/2 in. strip on edge in middle of other strip and
nail together. This had better be done on the ground so it can be
turned over to nail. Then start at one side and run this double piece
lengthwise of your garden or crosswise of the 1x4 in. fence board
nailed along top of post and nail down into same. It may be necessary
to nail a small piece of board on side of the 1x4 in. board where the
joints come. Then lay another piece similar to this parallel with
first one, leaving about 49 1/2 in. between the two. This space is
for the lath panel to rest on the bottom piece of the double piece.
Do not put double pieces so close that you will have to crowd the
lath panels to get them in, but leave a little room at end of panel.
You will gain about 1 1/2 in. for every double piece used in running
across the garden. This has to be made up by extending over one side
or the other a piece of 1x4 board nailed to end of 1x4 board nailed
at top posts. Let this come over the side you need the shade most.
Begin from the side you need the shade least and let it extend over
the other side.
It is advisable to run paths on outside of garden and extend the
shading out over them. On sides lath can be used unless otherwise
shaded by trees or vines. It will not be necessary to shade the north
side if shading extends out over end of beds several feet. Give your
plants all the air you can. In this system of shading I am using I
have figured a whole lot to get the most convenient shading as well
as a strong, substantial one without the use of needless lumber,
which means money in most places. It has given good satisfaction for
lath shade so far. Being easily built and handy to put on in spring
and take off in fall.
Now don't think I am using all lath shade, as I am not. In one part
of garden I am using lath and in another part I am using some good
elm trees. I think, however, that the roots make more rapid growth
under the lath shade, but the trees are the cheaper as they do not
rot and have to be replaced. They also put on their own shade. The
leaves when the proper time comes also removes it when the time comes
in the fall and also mulches the beds at the same time.
We will now plan out the beds and paths. Use 1x4 in. rough 16 ft.
fence boards on outside row of posts next to ground, nail these to
posts, continue and do likewise on next row of posts, and so on until
all posts have boards nailed on same side of them as first one, the
post being just on inside edge of your beds. Then measure 6 1/2 ft.
toward next board, drive a row of stakes and nail a board of same
width to same the length of your garden that will make 18 in. between
last row of boards and boards on next row nailed to post for the
path.
These boards answer several purposes, viz., keep people from walking
on beds, elevates beds above paths, holds your mulching of leaves and
adds to the appearance of your garden. After beds are made by placing
the boards spade the ground about a foot deep all over the bed so as
to work it up in good shape. After this is done fork it over with a
six-tine fork. If bed is made in summer for fall or spring planting
it is well to work it over several times during the summer, as the
ground cannot be too mellow. This will also help kill the weeds. Then
just before planting rake it down level.
In case beds are made in woods cut, or better, grub out all trees not
needed for shade, and if tree roots are not too large cut out all
next to the surface running inside of boards in beds, and work the
same as other beds. Lay out your beds same as for lath shade with
paths between them. Don't try to plant Ginseng in the woods before
making it into beds, as you will find it unsatisfactory.
We will now make the lath panel before mentioned.
[Illustration: A Lath Panel.]
Place three laths so that when the laths are laid crosswise one of
the laths will be in the middle and the other two, one at each end
two inches from end. Can be placed at the end, but will rot sooner.
Then begin at end of the three laths and nail lath on, placing them
1/2 in. apart until other end is reached, and if lath is green put
closer together to allow for shrinkage. If you have many panels to
make, make a table out of boards and lay strips of iron fastened to
table where the three lath comes, so as to clinch nails when they
strike the iron strips, which will save a lot of work. Gauges can
also be placed on side of table to lay lath so they will be even at
ends of panels when finished. Then lay panels in your double pieces
on your garden, and if garden is not located in too windy a locality
they will not blow out without nailing, and a wire drawn tight from
end to end of garden on top of panels will prevent this, and is all
that is necessary to hold them in place.
In Central New York, under favorable conditions, Ginseng plants
should be coming up the last of April and early May, and should be in
the ground by or before April 1st, to give best results. Healthy
roots, taken up last of March or early April will be found covered
with numerous fine hair-like rootlets. These are the feeders and have
all grown from the roots during the spring. They should be well
established in the soil before plants appear. Fifteen minutes
exposure to the sun or wind will seriously injure and possibly
destroy these fine feeders, forcing the roots to throw out a second
crop of feeders.
Considering these conditions and frequent late seasons, our advice to
beginners is, wait until fall for transplanting roots. But we are not
considering southern conditions. Southern growers must be governed by
their own experience and climatic conditions. It may be a matter of
convenience sometimes for a northern grower to take up one or two
year seedlings and transplant to permanent beds in spring. If
conditions are favorable so the work can be done in March or early
April, it may be allowable. Have ground ready before roots are taken
up. Only take up a few at a time, protect from sun and wind,
transplant immediately.
Spring sowing of old seed. By this we mean seed that should have been
sowed the fall before when one year old, but has been kept over for
spring sowing.
[Illustration: One, Two and Three Year Old Ginseng Roots.]
There is other work that can be done quite early in the Ginseng
gardens. All weeds that have lived thru the winter should be pulled
as soon as frost is out of ground. They can be pulled easier then
than any other time and more certain of getting the weed root out.
Mulching should be looked to. When coarse material like straw or
leaves has been used, it should be loosened up so air can get to the
soil and the plants can come up thru the mulch. If very heavy,
perhaps a portion of the mulch may need to be removed, but don't!
don't! take mulch all off from beds of set roots. Seed beds sown last
fall will need to be removed about time plants are starting up. But
seed beds should have been mulched with coarse leaf loam, or fine
vegetable mulch, and well rotted horse manure (half and half),
thoroughly mixed together, this mulch should have been put on as soon
as seeds were sown and covered with mulch one inch deep. If this was
not done last fall it should be put on this spring as soon as snow is
off beds.
[Illustration: Ginseng plants "coming up."]
There is another point that needs careful attention when plants are
coming up. On heavy soil plants are liable to be earth bound; this is
quite likely to occur on old beds that have not been mulched and
especially in dry seasons. As the Ginseng stalk comes out of the
ground doubled (like an inverted U) the plant end is liable to be
held fast by the hard soil, causing injury and often loss of plants.
A little experience and careful observation will enable one to detect
earth bound plants. The remedy is to loosen soil around the plant. A
broken fork tine about eight inches long (straightened) and drive
small end in a piece of broom handle about four inches long for a
handle, flatten large end of tine like a screwdriver; this makes a
handy tool for this work. Force it into soil near plant, give a
little prying movement, at same time gently pull on plant end of
stalk until you feel it loosen, do not try to pull it out, it will
take care of itself when loosened. There is not likely to be any
trouble, if leaves appear at the surface of soil. This little spud
will be very useful to assist in pulling weed roots, such as
dandelion, dock, etc.
Where movable or open shades are used, they need not be put on or
closed till plants are well up; about the time leaves are out on
trees is the general rule. But one must be governed to some extent by
weather and local conditions. If warm and dry, with much sun, get
them on early. If wet and cool, keep them off as long as practicable,
but be ready to get them on as soon as needed.
I would advise a would-be grower of Ginseng to visit, if possible,
some gardens of other growers and learn all they can by inquiry and
observation.
In selecting a place for your garden, be sure it has good drainage,
as this one feature may save you a good deal of trouble and loss from
"damping off," "wilt," and other fungus diseases which originate from
too damp soil.
A light, rich soil is best. My opinion is to get soil from the
forest, heap up somewhere for a while thru the summer, then sift thru
sand sieve or something similar, and put about two inches on top of
beds you have previously prepared by spading and raking. If the soil
is a little heavy some old sawdust may be mixed with it to lighten
it. The woods dirt is O. K. without using any commercial fertilizers.
The use of strong fertilizers and improper drying is responsible for
the poor demand for cultivated root. The Chinese must have the
"quality" he desires and if flavor of root is poor, will not buy.
* * *
I wonder how many readers know that Ginseng can be grown in the
house? writes a New York dealer.
Take a box about 5 inches deep and any size you wish. Fill it with
woods dirt or any light, rich soil. Plant roots in fall and set in
cellar thru the winter. They will begin to come up about April 1st,
and should then be brought out of cellar. I have tried this two
seasons. Last year I kept them by a window on the north side so as to
be out of the sunshine. Window was raised about one inch to give
ventilation. Two plants of medium size gave me about 100 seeds.
This season I have several boxes, and plants are looking well and
most of them have seed heads with berries from one-third to
three-fourths grown. They have been greatly admired, and I believe I
was the first in this section to try growing Ginseng as a house
plant.
* * *
As to the location for a Ginseng garden, I have for the past two
years been an enthusiast for cultivation in the natural forest,
writes L. C. Ingram, M. D., of Minnesota. It is true that the largest
and finest roots I have seen were grown in gardens under lattice, and
maintaining such a garden must be taken into account when balancing
your accounts for the purpose of determining the net profits, for it
is really the profits we are looking for.
The soil I have found to be the best, is a rich black, having a good
drain, that is somewhat rolling. As to the direction of this slope I
am not particular so long as there is a rich soil, plenty of shade
and mulch covering the beds.
The selection of seed and roots for planting is the most important
item confronting the beginner. Considerable has been said in the past
concerning the distribution among growers of Japanese seed by
unscrupulous seed venders. It is a fact that Japanese Ginseng seed
have been started in a number of gardens, and unless successfully
stamped out before any quantity finds its way into the Chinese
market, the Ginseng industry in America, stands in peril of being
completely destroyed. Should they find our root mixed, their
confidence would be lost and our market lost. Every one growing
Ginseng must be interested in this vital point, and if they are
suspicious of any of their roots being Japanese, have them passed
upon by an expert, and if Japanese, every one dug.
[Illustration: Bed of 10,000 Young Ginseng Plants in Forest.]
It is a fact that neighboring gardens are in danger of being mixed,
as the bees are able to do this in carrying the mixing pollen. The
safest way to make a start is by procuring seed and roots from the
woods wild in your own locality. If this cannot be done then the seed
and roots for a start should be procured from a reliable party near
you who can positively guarantee the seed and roots to be genuine
American Ginseng. We should not be too impatient and hasty to extend
the garden or launch out in a great way. Learn first, then increase
as the growth of new seed will permit.
The next essential thing is the proper preparation of the soil for
the planting of the seeds and roots. The soil must be dug deep and
worked perfectly loose same as any bed in a vegetable garden. The
beds are made four or five feet wide and raised four to six inches
above the paths, which are left one and a half to two feet wide. I
have had seed sown on the ground and covered with dirt growing beside
seed planted in well made beds and the contrast in size and the
thriftiness of roots are so great when seen, never to be forgotten.
The seedlings growing in the hard ground were the size of oat
kernels, those in the beds beside them three to nine inches long and
weighing from four to ten times as much per root.
In planting the seed all that is necessary is to scatter the
stratified seed on top of the prepared bed so they will be one or two
inches apart, then cover with loose dirt from the next bed then level
with back of garden rake. They should be one-half to one inch
covered. Sawdust or leaves should next be put on one to two inches
for a top dressing to preserve moisture, regulate heat, and prevent
the rains from packing the soil.
The best time to do all planting is in the spring. This gives the
most thrifty plants with the least number missing. When the plants
are two years old they must be transplanted into permanent beds.
These are prepared in the same manner as they were for the seed. A
board six inches wide is thrown across the bed, you step on this and
with a spade throw out a ditch along the edge of the board. In this
the roots are set on a slant of 45 degrees and so the bud will be
from one to two inches beneath the surface. The furrow is then filled
and the board moved its width. By putting the roots six inches apart
in the row and using a six-inch board your plants will be six inches
each way, which with most growers have given best results. When the
roots have grown three years in the transplanted beds they should be
ready to dig and dry for market. They should average two ounces each
at this time if the soil was rich in plant food and properly prepared
and cared for.
The plants require considerable care and attention thru each summer.
Moles must be caught, blight and other diseases treated and the weeds
pulled, especially from among the younger plants. As soon as the
plants are up in the spring the seed buds should be clipped from all
the plants except those finest and healthiest plants you may save for
your seed to maintain your garden. The clipping of the seed buds is
very essential, because we want the very largest and best flavored
root in the shortest time for the market. Then if we grow bushels of
seed to the expense of the root, it is only a short time when many
thousands of pounds of root must compete with our own for the market
and lower the price.