Mr Chamisso, who accompanied Kotzebue in his voyage, has published

interesting observations on this subject. He informs us that the

low islands of the South Sea and Indian Ocean owe their origin

principally to the operations of several species of coral. Their

situation with respect to each other, as they often form rows, their

union in several places in large groups, and their total absence in

other parts of the same seas, induce us to conclude, that the corals

have founded their building on shoals of the sea; or, to speak more

correctly, on the tops of mountains lying under water. On the one

side, as they increase, they continue to approach the surface of

the sea, on the other side they enlarge the extent of their earth.

The larger species of corals, which form blocks, measuring several

fathoms in thickness, seem to prefer the more violent surf on the

external edge of the reef; this, and the obstacles opposed to the

continuation of their life, in the middle of a broad reef, by the

amassing of the shells abandoned by the animals, and fragments of

corals, are probably the reason that the outer edge of the reef first

approaches the surface. As soon as it has reached such a height, that

it remains almost dry at low water, the corals leave off building

higher; sea-shells, fragments of coral, shells of echini, and their

broken-off prickles, are united by the burning sun, through the

medium of the cementing calcareous sand, which has arisen from

the pulverization of the above mentioned shells into one whole or

solid stone, which, strengthened by the continual throwing up of new

materials, gradually increases in thickness till it at last becomes

so high, that it is covered only during some seasons of the year by

the high tides. The heat of the sun so penetrates the mass of stone

when it is dry, that it splits in many places, and breaks off in

flakes. These flakes, so separated, are raised one upon another by

the waves at the time of high water. The always active surf throws

blocks of coral, (frequently of a fathom in length, and three or

four feet thick,) and shells of marine animals, between and upon the

foundation stones; after this the calcareous sand lies undisturbed,

and offers to the seeds of trees and plants, cast upon it by the

waves, a soil upon which they rapidly grow, to overshadow its

dazzling white surface. Entire trunks of trees, which are carried by

the rivers from other countries and islands, find here, at length, a

resting place after their long wanderings; with them come some small

animals, such as lizards and insects, as the first inhabitants. Even

before the trees form a wood, the real sea-birds nestle here; strayed

land-birds take refuge in the bushes; and at a much later period,

when the work has been long since completed, man also appears, builds

his hut on the fruitful soil formed by the corruption of the leaves

of the trees, and calls himself lord and proprietor of this new

creation.

In the preceding account, we have seen how the exterior edge of a

submarine coral edifice first approaches the surface of the water,

and how this reef gradually assumes the properties of land; the

island, therefore, necessarily has a circular form, and in the

middle of it an inclosed lake. This lake, however, is not entirely

inclosed; (and it could not be, for without supply from the sea it

would soon be dried up by the rays of the sun,) but the exterior

wall consists of a great number of smaller islands, which are

separated from each other by sometimes larger, sometimes smaller

spaces. The number of these islets amounts, in the larger coral

islands, to sixty; and between them it is not so deep but that it

becomes dry at the time of ebb. The interior sea has in the middle

generally a depth of from thirty to five-and-thirty fathoms; but on

all sides towards the land the depth gradually increases. In those

seas where the constant monsoons prevail, where, consequently, the

waves beat only on one side of the reef or island, it is natural

that this side of the reef, exposed to the unremitting fury of the

ocean, should be formed chiefly by broken-off blocks of coral, and

fragments of shells, and first rise above the elements that created

it. It is only these islands respecting the formation and nature

of which we hitherto know any thing with certainty; we are almost

entirely without any observations on those in the Indian and Chinese

Sea, which lie in the regions of the six months’ monsoons. From the

charts given of them, it is to be inferred that every side is equally

advanced in formation. The lee side of such a coral reef in the

Pacific Ocean, which is governed by the constant monsoons, frequently

does not shew itself above the water, when the opposite side, from

time immemorial, has attained perfection in the atmospheric region;

the former reef is even interrupted in many places by intervals

tolerably broad, and of the same depth as the inner sea, which have

been left by nature, like open gates, for the exploring mariner

to enter the internal calm and secure harbour. In their external

form the coral islands do not resemble each other; but this, and

the extent of each, probably depends on the size of the submarine

mountain tops, on which their basis is founded. Those islands which

have more length than breadth, and are opposed in their greatest

extent to the winds and waves, are richer in fruitful islets than

those whose situation is not so adapted to a quick formation.

In the large island-chains, there are always some single islets

which have the appearance of high land; these lie upon an angle

projecting into the sea, are exposed to the surf upon two sides,

consist therefore almost entirely of large blocks of coral, and are

destitute of smaller fragments of shells and coral sand to fill up

the intervals. They are, therefore, not adapted to support plants

requiring a depth of soil, and only afford a basis to high trees,

provided with fibrous roots, (as the Pisonia, Cordia Sebastiana, L.;

Morinda citrifolia, L.; and Pandanus odoratissimus, L.), which, at

a distance, give to these, always very small islands, the form of a

hill. The inner shores of the island, exposed to the surf, consist

of fine sand, which is washed up by the tide. Between the small

islands under their protection, and even in the middle of the inner

sea, are found smaller pieces of coral, which seek a quiet abode,

form in time, though very slowly, banks, till they at last reach the

surface of the water; gradually increase in extent; unite with the

islands that surround them; and at length fill up the minor seas,

so that what was at first a ring of islands, becomes one connected

land. The islands which are so far formed, retain in the middle a

flat plain, which is always lower than the wall that surrounds them

on the banks; for which reason pools of water are formed in them,

after a continued rain,--the only springs and wells they possess. One

of the peculiarities of these islands is, that no dew falls in the

evening, that they cause no tempests, and do not check the course of

the wind. The very low situation of the country sometimes exposes the

inhabitants to great danger, and threatens their lives when the waves

roll over their islands, if it happens that the equinox and full

moon fall on the same day (consequently when the water has reached

its greatest height), and a storm agitates the sea at the same time.

These islands are said to be also shaken by earthquakes.

MM. Quoy and Gaimard, in a lately published memoir, propose, _1st_,

To examine how corals raise their habitations upon rocks, and what

circumstances are favourable or unfavourable to their growth. _2d_,

To shew that there are no islands of any extent, constantly inhabited

by man, which are entirely formed of corals; and that far from

raising from the depths of the ocean perpendicular walls, as has been

alleged, these animals form only layers or crusts of a few fathoms

thickness.

The following, according to the French naturalists, is the manner in

which this addition or superposition of madrepores is effected. In

the places where the heat is constantly intense, where the land is

indented by bays containing shallow and quiet water, which is not

liable to be agitated by great surges, or by the regular breezes

of the tropics, there also the saxigenous polypi multiply. They

construct their habitations on the submarine rocks, envelope these

rocks in whole or in part, but do not form them properly speaking.

Thus, all those reefs, those girdles of madrepore, which are so

frequently met with in the South Sea, to the leeward of islands,

are shoals depending upon the conformation of the original ground,

which will be perceived to belong to it when the direction of the

mountains and hills has been attentively observed. It is always where

the slopes are gentle, and the sea shallowest, that the greatest

masses of madrepores are found. They sprout up if it is calm; in the

contrary case, they form only scattered tufts, belonging to species

which seem to be least affected by the agitation of the waters.

It has been said, and it is even a matter of general belief among

mariners, say MM. Quoy and Gaimard, that there occur in the

equatorial seas shoals composed of _corals_, which rise from the

greatest depths, like walls at the bottom of which the sounding

line finds no ground. The fact certainly does exist in so far as

regards the depth spoken of; and it is this very circumstance which

is productive of so much danger to vessels, which, when taken in a

calm and carried away by currents, cannot cast anchor in such places.

But it is not correct to say that these reefs are entirety formed of

madrepores. First, because the species which always form the most

considerable banks, such as some meandrinæ, certain caryophylleæ, but

especially the astreæ, adorned with the most beautiful and velvety

colours, require the influence of light to perfect them; because

they are not seen to grow beyond a few yards of depth; and because

they cannot consequently be developed at a depth of ten or twelve

hundred feet, as they would necessarily be, did they raise the cliffs

in question. Besides, these different species of animals would then

almost exclusively enjoy the privilege of living at all depths,

under all degrees of pressure, and, so to speak, in all temperatures.

Another circumstance to which navigators have not adverted, which

corroborates the opinion here stated, is, that, in depths so great

as those to which we allude, the sea, always agitated at the

surface, breaks with force upon these reefs, without requiring for

that purpose any additional impulse from the winds. And by merely

attending to the necessary consequences of the observations of these

same navigators, who say (what is very true) that, wherever the waves

are agitated, the lithophytes are unable to go on with their work,

because they destroy their frail edifices, we shall acquire the moral

certainty that these submarine steeps are not produced by these

animalcules. But, in these same places, let there occur a hollow, a

sheltered spot of some kind, and then they will immediately raise

their habitations, and will contribute to diminish the little depth

that already exists there. And this is what may be seen in almost all

the places where an elevated temperature permits these animals to

grow in abundance.

In the localities where the tides are sensible, their currents alone

may sometimes form irregular canals between the madrepores, without

their ever being encumbered with their species, from the twofold

cause united, of the motion and the coldness of the water; while, on

the other hand, the flexible alcyonia are seen to multiply there.

When these geological dispositions are carefully observed, we see

that the zoophytes rise to the surface of the waves, never beyond

it; after which the generation which has attained thus far appears

to die. It is destroyed much sooner, if, from the effect of the

tides, these frail animalcules are exposed naked to the action of a

burning sun. When there occur small hollows in these heaps of inert

spoils, deprived of their inhabitants, which are always covered by

the water, several tufts of those lithophytes are still remarked,

which, having escaped from the almost general destruction, glow with

the most lively colours. Then, the families which are developed anew,

not being able to build on the outside of those reefs on which the

sea is constantly breaking, draw nearer and nearer the shore, where

the waves now deadened have scarcely any more action upon them, as in

the Isle of France, at Timor, the Papua, the Marian, and the Sandwich

Islands; provided always the waters had not a great depth, as is

the case at Turtle Island, of which Cook speaks, where no bottom is

found between the madrepore reefs and the island, notwithstanding the

shortness of the space which exists between these two points.

If we examine these animals in the places best adapted to their

growth, we shall see their different species, the forms of which, as

varied as they are elegant, become rounded into balls, spread out

into fans, or ramify into trees, mingling together, blending with

each other, and reflecting the varied hues of red, yellow, blue and

violet.

It is well known that all these alleged walls, exclusively formed of

corals, are intersected with openings through which the sea enters

and retires with violence; and every body knows the danger which

Captain Cook ran on one occasion, on the coast of New Holland, when

he had no other resource, in order to save himself from destruction,

than to take the sudden resolution of attempting one of these narrow

passes, where one is always sure of finding plenty of water. And this

circumstance also comes in support of what we have advanced; for, if

these perpendicular walls were entirely composed of madrepores, they

would present no deep openings in their continuity, because it is the

property of zoophytes to build in masses that have no interruption;

and because, again, could they raise themselves from very great

depths, they would end with encumbering and shutting up these

passages; a circumstance which does not take place, and probably

never will, from the causes which we have related.

If these facts prove, that madrepores cannot exist at very great

depths, the submarine rocks, which they only increase in height, are

not, therefore, exclusively formed by them.

We now come to the second part of the argument; and we assert, that

there are no islands of any magnitude and constantly inhabited by

man, that are formed by corals; and that the layers which they

construct under the water, are not more than a few fathoms in

thickness.

We shall commence with the second part of this question. The

impossibility of penetrating to the bottom of the sea to examine

at what precise depth the solid zoophytes establish themselves,

constrains us to confine ourselves to what has taken place in former

times; and the monuments which the ancient revolutions of the globe

have disclosed to our view, will serve to prove what is going on in

our own days. We shall mention what has been seen in several places,

and we shall first speak of the island which Peron took for the

theatre of the great works of these polypi, namely the island of

Timor.

The banks of coral which the sea has left exposed in the land,

as it retired, are remarkable for their uncommon magnitude. The

whole shores of Coupang are formed of them, and the low hills in

its vicinity are enveloped in them; but a few hundred yards from

the town, they disappear, when distinct strata of slate make their

appearance. The corals form a bed over the subjacent rocks from 25 to

80 feet thick.

Every thing announces that, in the Island of Timor, there exist

no mountains exclusively formed of corals. As in all extensive

countries, they are composed of various substances. Quoy and Gaimard

having coasted it for about fifty leagues, sufficiently near to

enable them to form an idea of its geography, were able to see that

it exhibited volcanic appearances in several parts. Besides it

abounds in mines of gold and copper, which, in conjunction with what

we have already mentioned, shews in a general way the nature of the

rocks of which it is composed.

Perhaps, remarks Quoy and Gaimard, the Bald-Head, a mountain of

King George’s harbour in New Holland, which Vancouver has described

in passing, and on the summit of which he saw perfectly preserved

branches of coral, might be adduced as a fact in opposition to the

opinion here advanced. Yet the phenomenon exhibited there, is still

precisely the same as at Timor, and in a thousand other places[382].

The zoophytes have built upon a basis previously existing, and

they occupy only the surface of it. For why should this Bald-Head

differ from Mount Gardner, which, although close by it, is formed of

primitive rocks? Besides, Peron says, that it has the same geological

constitution. (T. ii. p. 133.)

At Rota, one of the Marian Isles, M. Gaudichaud, detached from the

limestone rock, at about a hundred toises above the level of the

sea, branches of true madrepores, in perfect preservation. Here are,

then, three localities in which they are found at great heights. We

have observed them, say the French naturalists, at infinitely lower

elevations in several other places, as at the Isle of France, where

they form a bed more than six feet thick, between two streams of

lava; at Wahou, one of the Sandwich Islands, where they have not

a greater elevation, but extend for several hundred toises over

the surface of the island. In all these cases, it is necessary to

distinguish between the lithophytes, which have, by their living

powers, formed continuous masses, from those which, after having been

rolled about, broken down by the water, and mixed with sea shells,

contribute to form those deposits known by the name of _madrepore

limestone_. The latter sort is nothing but the debris of the former.

Deposits of this description occur in the Marian Isles, and in those

of the Papous; they occur also on the coasts of France, and in

several other places.

It would appear from observations made in Timor and other places,

that the species of the genus Astræa which are the only ones capable

of covering immense extents of surface, do not commence their

operations at a greater depth than twenty-five or thirty feet, in

order to raise their habitations to near the surface of the sea.

Fragments of these species are never obtained, either with the

sounding line, or upon the anchors; nor do we ever see them, unless

in places where the water is shallow; while the branched madrepores,

which do not form thick and continuous beds, either on the elevated

places which the ocean has left, or on the shores where they still

exist, live at considerable depths.

It is evident, then, that these corals have erected their fabrics

on the summits of submarine hills and mountains; and that all those

reefs of Taiti, the Dangerous Archipelago, Navigators’ Islands, the

Friendly Islands, &c. are composed of madrepores only at the surface.

We thus consider it demonstrated, that the rocks of the solid

zoophytes or coral, are not capable of forming the immense bases on

which the greater number of the islands that occur in the Pacific

Ocean rest.

There now remains for us to state how these animals, by their

union, are capable of raising small islets. Forster, as already

stated, has given a very good description of the manner in which

this is effected. In fact, when these animalcules have raised their

habitations to the surface of the water, under the shelter of the

land, and they remain uncovered during the reflux of the tide, the

hurricanes which sometimes supervene, by the agitation which they

produce in those shallow waters, throw up from the bottom sand and

mud. These substances are detained in the sinuosities and cavities

formed between the corals, and thus serve to fix them together, and

connect them into masses. Whenever the summit of this new island

can remain constantly uncovered by the sea, and the waves can no

longer destroy what they themselves have contributed to form, then

its extent is enlarged, and its edges are gradually raised by the

successive addition of sand. According to the direction of the

winds and currents they may long remain sterile; but if the seeds

of vegetables be transported to them from the neighbouring shores,

by the action of these two causes, then, in latitudes favourable to

their development, we presently see these islands becoming covered

with verdure, the successively accumulated remains of which form

layers of soil, which contribute to the elevation of the surface.

But, in order that this phenomenon of growth be accomplished,

the distance from land must not be too great, because then the

vegetables cannot get so easily to the islets in question, which

then remain almost always bare and sterile. And for this reason what

navigators report of those madrepore Islands of the Great Ocean,

which are covered with verdure, and are yet at a great distance

from any known land, has always appeared to us extraordinary; and

that so much the more, that, in those vast spaces, the violence

of the waves, which nothing can break there, must disturb the

operations of the zoophytes. We do not, however, deny the existence

of these islands, which it would be interesting carefully to examine

anew; for, whenever navigators meet with low islands between the

Tropics, they do not hesitate, in compliance with the generally

received opinion, to say that they consist of madrepores. Yet how

many islands, which scarcely rise above the surface of the water,

recognise no such origin? We may mention, as an example, the Island

of Boni, situated under the equator, the beautiful vegetation of

which rises upon limestone. Cocoa Island, near Guam, is in the same

condition, being also composed of limestone. In general, if they are

inhabited, consequently they have springs or lakes of fresh water,

we may almost be certain that they are not composed of lithophytes,

or are only so in part, because springs could not be formed in their

porous substances. Some of the Caroline Isles are excessively low; we

supposed them encrusted with madrepores; and as they have inhabitants

there must be somewhere in them a soil favourable to the accumulation

of fresh water[383].

In restraining the power of these animalcules, concludes Quoy and

Gaimard, and in pointing out the limits which nature has prescribed

them, we have no other object than to furnish more correct data to

the naturalists who aspire to great hypothetical considerations,

regarding the conformation of the globe. On reconsidering these

zoophytes with greater attention, they will no longer be seen

filling up the basins of the seas, raising islands, increasing

the size of the continents, threatening future generations with a

solid equatorial circle formed of their spoils. Their influence,

with regard to the road-steads or harbours, in which they multiply,

is already great enough, without adding more to it. But, compared

with the masses on which they rest, what are their layers, often

interrupted, and which must be searched for with care, before they

can be recognised, to the enormous volcanic peaks of the Sandwich

Islands, the Island of Bourbon, the Moluccas, the Marian Islands, the

mountains of Timor, New Guinea, &c. &c.? Nothing, certainly; and the

solid zoophytes are in no degree capable of being compared with the

testaceous mollusca, with reference to the materials which they have

furnished, and still continue to furnish to the crust of the Globe.

NOTE I, p. 33.

ON THE LEVEL OF THE BALTIC.

About the middle of the last century, a controversy took place

among the natural philosophers of the north of Europe, regarding

the alleged gradual lowering of the level of the sea in general,

and of the Baltic Sea in particular. Celsius was the first who

introduced this idea to notice. He generalised it by applying it

to all the planets, and was supported by the authority of the

celebrated Linnæus. He soon perceived, however, that the point could

never be settled by mere discussion, and that facts alone could

lead to any certain result. Observation was therefore had recourse

to; and thus the dispute in question had at least one good effect,

that of directing to the subject the attention of men of science,

whose situation might enable them to mark the variations of level

that take place along the coasts of the North Sea. The results of

investigations undertaken for this purpose, are now beginning to be

collected.

In the course of 1820 and 1821, Mr Bruncrona, assisted by the

officers of the Pilotage Establishment, and other qualified persons,

undertook the examination of all the authentic measures that had been

established upon the west coast of the Baltic, during the last half

century. The results of this examination are given in a short memoir,

inserted in the Swedish Transactions for 1823. The following table

indicates the degree to which the level of the sea has fallen during

the last forty years, on the coast of Sweden, at various latitudes.

It is proper to remark, that, in some of the places observed, the

measures were much older, and in some others much more recent,

than the period of forty years. In both these cases, the change of

level that must have been effected during this period, has been

estimated, by calculating the mean annual depression furnished by the

observations.

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