its situation and many peculiarities, one of the most beautiful cities
of the world. On coming from Rome, one certainly misses the grander
taste in architecture and other works of decorative art formed upon
and refined by the study of the antique, which for ages has rendered
that city the most interesting of all others to the architect, the
sculptor and the painter; but one is compensated for that in Naples
by other advantages that Rome has not. To an inhabitant of northern
lands, the city presents from its amphitheatrical position a most
imposing spectacle, and with its flat roofs covered with party-coloured
and lacquered tiles, its cupolas and towers, it has a very novel and
oriental appearance. It is moreover one of the most lively cities of
the world, at least one of the most noisy; for although Vienna and
Hamburg, the two most populous cities that I have yet seen, may have
proportionately as many inhabitants as Naples, yet the latter, partly
from its southern liveliness, and partly from the circumstance that
here all classes idle away more time in the streets than they work at
home, is much more animated than those cities. The noise in the streets
is positively great beyond description, and until one has become
somewhat accustomed to it, one is completely deafened by it. All the
mechanics pursue their calling in the streets: blacksmiths, locksmiths,
copper-smiths, carpenters, tailors and shoemakers--all alike sit in
front of their houses variously intermingled, and work. Added to that
the rattling of the carts and vehicles, which in the principal streets
almost always move on two lines, the wild cries of itinerant vendors,
always endeavouring to undersell each other, and lastly the animated
language and gestures of those who meet, or converse in the streets,
who to a German seem as though they were in violent dispute, although
they are perhaps merely talking of the weather or some unimportant
piece of news or town gossip. But more striking than in any other city
of the world is the contrast between the luxury in the equipages and
dress of the higher classes, and the dirt and nakedness of the lower
ones, particularly of the so-called Lazzaroni. Of these whole families
are to be seen lying in the streets in the midst of the _beau monde_,
looking for vermin upon their half-naked bodies. A more disgusting
sight I never beheld! And yet before _Murat’s_ time, who made soldiers
of all the able-bodied Lazzaroni, these vagabonds were far more
numerous.
February 3.
Yesterday we made our first excursion. In company with our Silesian
fellow-countrymen, Herren _von Raumer_, _von Lattorf_, _Hagen_
and _Kruse_, we first drove out to Portici to see the museum.
Here, in a suite of apartments, are preserved the paintings and
interior-decorations found in Herculaneum and Pompeii, from whence they
have been taken from the walls with the plaster, and are here hung up
in frames with glass doors. Of the greater part of them the colours
are in excellent preservation, especially a very fine red. The room
or interior decorations, consisting of arabesques, small landscapes,
and the figures of animals, are almost all well painted. The larger
historical paintings taken from temples and public buildings have great
artistic merit, and are remarkable both for drawing and colour. Some of
these are in a wonderful state of preservation, and appear as though
they had been painted but recently. Besides these paintings, there is
in another room a collection of a variety of metal utensils, a helmet,
and some vases in pottery, with different kinds of grain, partly burnt
by the glowing ashes, such as wheat, barley, Indian corn, beans, &c.
&c. These different kinds of grain are readily recognised, and we
found them quite similar to our own in size and form. All the other
antiquities which were formerly preserved here have been transferred to
Naples, and it is intended to transfer the paintings there also.
As the weather was extremely fine, we felt a great disposition to
make the ascent of mount Vesuvius without loss of time. But as it
was almost impossible for women and children to climb the last steep
ascent, _Dorette_ and the children returned to Naples, accompanied by
Herr _Kruse_. We others hired some asses for the journey and return,
at the extremely low charge of four Carlini (about 15-1/2d.), and set
out at 12 o’clock at noon. At first the road lies through vineyards
for about the distance of an hour and a half’s journey, and with but a
gentle ascent only; but the road begins already to be difficult, being
very uneven and stony. We saw several vineyards enclosed with large
bush-aloes instead of hedges. After the lapse of an hour and a half
we came to a plain which spread away before us like a desolate waste,
as far as the proper base of the volcano. Not a vestige of vegetation
met the eye; on every side nothing but masses of lava piled upon each
other! Our path now turned leftward across the plain towards a mountain
ridge, which rises like an island out of the midst of this fearful
wilderness. On this stands the so-called hermitage, a building of two
stories high, where we refreshed ourselves with bread, wine, cheese and
fruits, and enjoyed the fine and now tolerably extensive view. After a
short rest, in company with ten Englishmen whom we met here, we resumed
the road, which still continues to run over the summit of the ridge as
far as the crater. This part of the way is the least difficult, leading
for some distance through bushes of sweet chesnuts, the plain covered
with black lava stretching away before the eye. After half an hour’s
progress we reached the steepest part of the ridge, at the foot of
which we were obliged to leave the asses. Now began the difficult part
of our work. Treading upon deep ashes without solid bottom, at every
footstep one slips back so far, that one has often scarcely advanced
an inch; and the mountain is here so steep, that one is obliged to
use the hands as well for progression. Fortunately a ridge of solid
lava extends downwards almost from the whole height, and rises like
a ridge of rock from out of the ashes. When one has reached this,
the toil is less, as the ground beneath has again become firm. But
were one obliged, as at first, to wade always through the ashes, it
would require a whole day to make the ascent of this height alone.
Nevertheless it took a good hour to accomplish it, although we set out
from our resting place with recruited strength, and with the hope of
soon reaching the summit. On reaching the top, we saw again a small
plain before us, from which in several places between the lava-rocks a
white sulphurous steam ascended. The ground here was more or less hot
and our footsteps produced a hollow sound. After we had passed rapidly
over this we had to climb another though a lower height, and then
beheld at a moderate distance before us the two craters, which were
now vomiting fire. We sat down upon the ground between the lava-rocks
and found ourselves as though sitting in a heated stove, for a great
heat rose from the earth, which was nevertheless very agreeable to
us. After we had rested here some time, some one of the company asked
whether one could not ascend between the two cones close to the brink
of the crater? All the guides replied in the negative, and assured us
it was very dangerous to approach it nearer. We saw sufficiently well
ourselves that it would be impossible to ascend direct from the place
where we stood, as we should have run the risk of being stifled with
the smoke of the crater upon our left. But it seemed to us that a way
might possibly be found round the left side of one crater, from which
we could ascend on the windward side of the other; so we immediately
proceeded to make the trial together; after some objections our guides
followed also. We had scarcely proceeded a distance of two hundred
paces, when one of the craters with a fearful report threw out a
quantity of red-hot stones, some of which fell at no great distance
from us. This soon brought the whole party to a standstill; but after
some little hesitation the foremost proceeded onward and the rest of us
followed. In this manner, after a toilsome passage, we reached the rear
of the left-hand crater, and then began to ascend the cone. But this
was the most laborious task of the whole day, for we had now to climb
a very steep incline up to our knees in ashes. Nevertheless, after
great exertion we reached the summit and stood on the narrow edge of
the crater, which, in the form of a funnel, is about two hundred feet
in diameter at the upper part of the opening. After we had taken breath
here awhile, and contemplated the eruptions of the other crater, which
lay before us to leeward, the one close to which we were standing,
became suddenly quite clear of smoke, and we could look down into the
awful abyss. We there saw large cavernous fissures between the masses
of rock forming the neck of the funnel, out of which flames burst at
intervals; but as these were immediately followed by smoke, this sight
was of short continuance only. One of the Englishmen of our party
took it into his head, at a moment when the smoke of the crater upon
the brink of which we were standing was somewhat less, to run across
even to the other, in order to look down into it. But scarcely had he
reached the brink, when an eruption, though fortunately not a very
strong one, took place, from which he had barely time to save himself,
and rush back again to us. At the same moment a third crater behind us
began to make a noise, and it was now indeed high time that we should
make our retreat. Though it was ashes merely that it threw up, yet by
the timely fear with which it filled us, it was our saviour from utter
destruction; for scarcely had we reached our old halting-place than the
hitherto very quiet crater on the brink of which we had stood, threw
out such a mass of red hot stones, exactly in the direction of the
place where we had stood, that we should all have been struck down and
overwhelmed by them had we stopped there five minutes longer. After our
daring party had recovered from the terror which had seized upon all,
we were compelled to avow our extreme rashness in having ventured to
ascend so high despite the warnings of our guides.
We now once more bivouaked upon our warm place, and recruited our
spirits with the provisions we had brought with us. But with night
drawing on, far away from every living creature, and surrounded on
all sides by desolation, it was a fearful reflexion to think that we
sat here suspended as it were over a sea of fire, upon a perhaps not
very thick crust, which sooner or later might give way beneath us.
Several of our party made the observation, that it was indeed a mad
piece of folly to have risked life upon chances so eminently possible,
for the mere gratification of an idle curiosity. But these reflexions
nevertheless did not prevent us from enjoying with much relish the eggs
our guides had brought with them and cooked in the hot ashes, and which
we washed down with a draught of delicious _Lacrymæ Christi_.
We here awaited the approach of night; saw the sun sink below the sea,
and the full moon rise behind the craters, her yellow light forming a
beautiful contrast with the red flames that issued from them. On our
right we saw at the same time the reflexion from the burning lava which
poured from an opening in the side of the mountain, which however it
was impossible to approach without the greatest danger.
About seven o’clock we set out upon our return, which at first, from
our being obliged to descend on the shaded side of the mountain was
on account of the darkness both very difficult and dangerous. But
when we arrived at the precipitous places, our guides led back us by
another way, where we slid down with giant steps over deep ashes. Below
we found our asses, upon which we rode to Portici by a magnificent
moonlight. At ten o’clock at night we arrived once more at Naples,
highly gratified with the extremely interesting day’s adventures.
February 7.
During the constant fine spring weather we daily take a walk to see
the immediate environs of the city. The favorite walk of the children
is to the quay, on which is the light-house, partly because the busy
life in the port itself, as well as the sight of the different kinds
of vessels, from the ship of war mounting a hundred guns down to the
fisherman’s boat, affords them immense pleasure, and partly because
the way leading to it presents the most lively picture of the habits
and occupations of the lower classes. From the St. Carlo theatre to
the harbour there is, next to the Toledo-street, always the greatest
crowd; at a short distance from which are all the small hole-and-corner
theatres, where performances take place all the day long and where,
upon a platform outside, a couple of fiddlers and a merry-Andrew
constantly invite the passers-by to enter. Between these are the booths
of the itinerant vendors, who, perched upon a table, recommend their
medicaments to their numerous listeners and purchasers. Upon the quay,
where there is no noise from the carts and carriages, the puppet-show
players pitch their portative theatres, and the _Improvisatori_
entertain the Neapolitans with the heroic feats of their ancestors.
Sometimes one of these reads aloud to his auditory and then explains
what he has been reading. But here also swarm the most impudent and
disgusting beggars, and the most expert pick-pockets; so that one
cannot be too careful how one gets mixed up with them. On my first
walks into that quarter I lost my pocket handkerchief each time. If one
waits here till the evening the Vesuvius, with its red fire, presents a
singular and magnificent contrast with the white lights of the Pharos.
The Royal garden on the Chiaja is also another very interesting walk.
It extends for a considerable length close to the sea, and consists of
three very broad alleys with small flower-beds laid out in the English
style. It is ornamented with several fine statues and groups in marble;
in the centre stands the celebrated Farnesian Bull, a splendid antique
by a Greek master; on both sides are several fine copies of ancient
works of art, such as that of the Apollo of Belvedere, the rape of the
Sabines, &c. &c. From eleven in the forenoon on fine days, the _beau
monde_ assembles here to look and to be looked at. If one proceeds
still farther along the Chiaja, one soon comes to the road that leads
through the Grotto of Pausilippo to Puzzuoli. This long gallery,
extending at least for a thousand paces right through a mountain of
considerable height, is very remarkable of its kind, for the galleries
cut through the rocks in the road over the Simplon are but child’s
play compared to this work. The entrance on this side between towering
rocks is exceedingly romantic; at a great distance off the noise of the
carriages driving through resembles thunder, and it is said that at
night, when all is quiet here, the sound of the vehicles in the streets
of Naples, is echoed through this rocky gallery like that of distant
thunder. The interior is lighted day and night with numerous lamps.
At the entrance and in the middle are little chapels, at which the
passengers are solicited for alms. Above the entrance high up on the
rocks, a small grotto is pointed out, where the immortal poet Virgil
lies buried.
A few days ago we visited also Fort St. Elmo, from which one has an
extensive view over the whole city and of the expansive bay.
February 12.
Last evening we returned from a delightful excursion to the islands.
On Sunday at noon, in company with our three Silesian countryman, we
went across to Ischia in a hired boat. We were at first obliged to
sail round the promontary of Pausilippo: Nisida and Procida lay quite
close to us, Cape Micen somewhat in the background, and Ischia at
a greater distance, in a direct line before us. These islands and
promontories with their steep, and towering rocks close to the sea,
and the rich fertility of their interior, present every moment and on
every side on which they are beheld new aspects of varying interest,
now of a beautiful and now of a bolder and grander character. Procida,
in particular, one of the most populated spots of the whole world,
presents a magnificent view from the sea, the whole island having
the appearance of a large city. As the wind blew tolerably fresh and
against us, night came on before we could reach Ischia. But the beauty
of the evening would not permit us to regret our having been delayed.
The stars shone with a brightness such as in Germany at least they are
never seen to shine with; and Venus in particular was resplendent with
so clear a light that its beams were reflected in the sea like those of
the moon, and one could plainly discern a shadow from any intervening
object. The sea, also, at every stroke of the oar shone as with the
light of myriads of glowworms. About eight o’clock we at length landed
at the north shore of the island and found a comfortable night-lodging
in the handsome house of a clergyman.
On the next morning we soon set out upon our way to see the interior
of the island and to ascend the Epomeo. As at Ischia there are neither
vehicles nor roads to travel on, we all mounted upon asses, which
carried us more conveniently and safely over the rocky and uneven
ground. After passing through several level tracts in the highest
cultivation we came to the small but lively town of Ischia, on the
sea-shore, and onward to the foot of the Epomeo between vineyards to
the opposite side of the mountain, where it is more convenient to
climb. After we had ascended about half-way by very bad roads, we
halted for an hour to rest and refresh the animals, and then completed
the other still more toilsome part of the ascent. Meanwhile the sky had
unfortunately become overcast with clouds, and upon reaching the summit
of the mountain we were enveloped in a thick mist. We then entered a
hermitage of some size, consisting of several rooms and passages,
and of a chapel. It resembles that at Freiburg in Switzerland, and
like that also is hewn out of the solid rock, by two industrians
recluses. We waited here some time in the hope that the weather would
clear up, and several times also we had a glimpse between the clouds
over the level parts of the island, which lay like a map outspread in
the distance before us; but Naples, Capri, and Sorrento were veiled
from our sight. We were at length obliged to set out on our way once
more, without having had the pleasure of enjoying the fine view from
here, which is perhaps one of the finest in the world, and had already
considered our toilsome journey as a labour in vain, when on a sudden,
after we had descended somewhat lower and stood under the stratum of
clouds, the magnificent view of the whole of the islands, promontories
and bay, with Vesuvius smoking in the background, displayed itself to
our enraptured eyes. Long we stood lost in admiration of the singular
beauty of the scene, and at length, when the setting sun gave token
of departure, we returned by the shortest but steepest road, where
we could make no use of the asses, to our quarter of the previous
night. The Epomeo, which 450 years ago was a volcano, exhibits on this
side, which is much more wild and barren than the other, numerous
traces of former eruptions. The road led now almost continually over
weather-worn lava. Upon the rocks we saw at very frequent intervals
the stock-gilliflower in bloom, which here and in the neighbourhood of
Naples grows wild. On the way-side violets and other plants, several
of which are not indigenous with us, were in full flower, and in the
gardens, the almond tree. At length we came to a place where there are
warm baths, which in summer are much frequented by the Neapolitans. At
the house of our host we found a plentifully spread table awaiting us,
which after all the fatigue of the day was exceedingly acceptable. A
fiery white Ischian wine of the year 1811 we found especially agreeable
to the palate.
We re-embarked the next morning at eight o’clock and landed first at
Cape Micenus, where we visited the large subterranean reservoirs of
soft water from which the Roman fleets were supplied, and the _cento
camere_ of Nero, which were probably prisons for the detention of
prisoners of war. We then sailed right across the bay to Puzzuoli, and
there made another pilgrimage to some antiquities. On running into
the harbour we sailed past the still standing piers and arches of the
bridge of _Caligula_, which that Emperor designed throwing across the
bay. Although built of bricks merely, such is the excellence of the
cement used in their construction, that their remains, after the lapse
of so many centuries, still bid defiance to the unceasing action of the
waves.
Our cicerone led us first to the Solfatara, a round level field-like
space enclosed on all sides with rocks, apparently a crater which at
some remote period had fallen in. The subterranean fire still burns
beneath, nevertheless, for in many places smoke issues out of the
earth, and as on Mount Vesuvius, deposits sulphur. At those places the
ground is burning hot, and the foot-tread sounds hollow. Our guide
flung a large stone upon the ground, which made it vibrate for a
considerable distance round us, and produced a very loud, hollow sound.
Thence we proceeded to another subterranean reservoir of water similar
to that at Cape Micenus; inspected the ruins of an amphitheatre and
several temples, and at last reached the most interesting antiquity
in the whole neighbourhood--the ruins of the temple of Serapis, close
to the sea-shore. So much has been written respecting all these
antiquities, that it would be superfluous to dwell upon them here, but
the remains of the temple of Serapis are so remarkable, and afford such
evidence of its former size and grandeur that to see them alone amply
repays a journey here. Towards the evening we drove back to Naples
through the grotto of Pausilippo.
February 15.
As I have now been several times to the St. Carlo theatre, I can with
confidence put my judgment to paper respecting it. On the first visit
I experienced the same feeling as in the church of St. Peter: it did
not appear to me so large as it really is, and it was not until I had
been frequently told that it is four feet wider and I know not how many
longer than the theatre at Milan, that I could believe it. But when the
curtain drew up and I could compare the size of the human beings with
the painted objects of the decorations, I readily observed that here
also I had been deceived by the correct proportions of each gigantic
object. Here for the first time the horses introduced on the stage did
not appear out of proportion with the rest, and the people one saw
at the extreme depth of the theatre, were still in just proportion
with objects which surrounded them. For ballet and pantomine I know
of no better adapted locality, and military evolutions of infantry
and cavalry, battles, storms at sea, and such things can be produced
without falling into the ridiculous and the paltry; but for operas the
house is too large. Although the singers, Madame _Colbran_ and Signori
_Nozzari_, _Benedetti_, and others, have very powerful voices, yet
one hears only the highest notes given out with the full strain of
the voice; but all tender pathos in song is wholly lost. This is said
not to have been the case before the fire, and the theatre was then
quite as sonorous as _Della Scala_ at Milan. This prejudicial change
is ascribed to three causes first, the proscenium has been widened by
several feet; secondly, the ceiling is not so concave as formerly;
and thirdly, the high projecting decorations in stucco obstruct the
sound and do not send it back. If the house was in reality so sonorous
formerly, then they have greatly deadened that faculty in the new
building, and they would do very wisely to eject (the sooner the
better) all the unnecessary trumpery of ornament and gildings, which
besides is exceedingly heavy and not in the best taste, and so regain
the former advantages.