again to Herr _Tietz_, whom I this time found alone. It did not require
much to persuade him to play the duet; but he would not take the primo.
We had hardly ended, when Herr _Hirschfeld_, hornist in the Imperial
orchestra, and others with whom I was unacquainted, came in. Herr
_Tietz_ begged me to repeat the duet, and it appeared to please not
him alone, but also the others. Herr _Tietz_ now opened a quartet by
_Haydn_, and required me to take the first violin. He himself took the
violoncello part. As the quartet was known to me, I did not refuse.
It was pretty well executed, and Herr _Tietz_, as well as the others
present, overwhelmed me with praises. _Tietz_ played the secondo of
my duet, which is not easy, without faltering and perfectly clean,
executing the cantabile passages with taste and feeling. The passages
which, according to the old method, he played with rebounding bow,
pleased me less.
On the 23^{rd} May, we met _Tietz_ at the weekly evening concert of the
Senator _Teplow_, where a pianiste named Madame _Meier_ appeared, and
played a piano concerto of her own composition, which was not bad. Then
_Eck_ and I followed with a concerto of his brother’s, which we had
been closely practising for the previous fortnight. At the beginning, I
was nervous, and played the first solo not so well as at home; but it
soon went on better, particularly in the last parts.
Herr _Tietz_ now produced a concerto of his own composition, the
Allegro and Rondo of which he played twice, possibly because the first
time did not please him. As he never had practised since his madness,
it may be readily conceived that technical firmness was wanting in his
play. The difficult passages also, were executed very much better the
second time. Into all the three parts, he introduced cadences in the
old style, improvising them; they were in themselves very pretty, but
sounded quite different the second time.
The diary closes with the remark, “though _Tietz_ indeed is not a
great violinist, much less the greatest in the world as his admirers
maintain, he is undoubtedly a musical genius as his compositions prove.”
The best violinist then in St. Petersburgh was, without doubt,
_Fränzel_ junior. He had just come from Moscow where he had been
engaged for six concerts at three thousand rubles. His attitude in
playing displeased me. The diary says:
“He holds the violin still in the old manner, on the right side of
the tail piece, and must therefore play with his head bent...... To
this must be added that, he raised the right arm very high, and has
the bad habit of elevating his eyebrows at the expressive passages. If
this is not unpleasant to the majority of the listeners it is still
very disagreeable for a violinist to see...... His playing is pure and
clean. In the Adagio parts, he executes many runs, shakes, and other
fioriture, with a rare clearness and delicacy. As soon however as he
played loud, his tone is rough and unpleasant, because he draws his bow
too slowly and too near to the bridge, and leans it too much to one
side. He executed the passages clearly and purely, but always with the
middle of the bow, and consequently without distinction of piano and
forte.”
I heard another celebrated violinist, Herr _Bärwald_, afterwards leader
in Stockholm. As he came forward to play the concerto of _Viotti_
(A-sharp) he was already applauded, before he had sounded a note.
This, together with his good bearing and his excellent manner of
managing his bow, raised my expectation very high, and it was with the
greatest impatience that I awaited the end of the _Tutti_. But how was
I disappointed on hearing the solo! His playing was indeed clean and
accomplished, but still so sleeply and monotonous, the passages so flat
and drawn out, that I would have much preferred the false but still
fiery playing of _Pixis_. He introduced, and played an Adagio of his
father’s composition, something better, and thus somewhat reconciled
me again. After him, one Herr _Palzow_, a man celebrated for his
theoretical knowledge, played a concerto of his own composition, on a
piano with a flute attachment. Well and scientifically as the concerto
was worked out, it pleased neither me nor the others listeners, on
account of its length and monotony. The tones also of the strings and
of the flute had together a very bad effect.
I also wrote my opinion of _Fodor_, the then celebrated violinist
and composer. I heard him in the concert of the “Nobility’s, or
Musical club,” where however everything was very unmusical; for the
elite assembled there, “not to listen, but to chat and walk about in
the saloon.” At first a fine symphony by _Romberg_, (_C_-sharp) was
extremely well executed. Then Signor _Pasco_, first tenorist of the
Italian theatre, sang an aria so charmingly, tastefully and tenderly,
that it actually became somewhat more quiet in the saloon. Herr _Fodor_
now followed with a concerto of his own composition, which however
appeared to me worse than those I already knew. His playing also did
not please me. He played indeed in a pure and rather accomplished
manner, but without warmth and taste. In the passages he also played
with rebounding bow, which soon became unbearable. Madame _Canavassi_,
prima donna of the Italian opera who before had not pleased me on the
stage, sung this time so beautifully, that I must confess to having
wronged her.
During Lent, the Greek church allowing no theatrical representations,
the Intendancy of the Court theatre gave two grand concerts weekly in
the Steiner theatre, in which, only virtuosi of the Imperial orchestra
performed, among whom Herr _Eck_ was now reckoned. The best whom I
had the opportunity of hearing there were the violinist _Hartmann_,
_Jerchow_ and _Remi_, the violinist _Delphino_, the hautboyist
_Scherwenka_, and the hornist _Hirschfeld_.
In the first concert, the orchestra consisted of thirty six violins,
twenty bass and double set wind instruments. Besides these the choruses
were supported by forty hornists from the Imperial orchestra, each
of whom had only one single note to blow. They served in place of an
organ, and gave the chorus, the notes of which were divided among them,
great firmness and strength. In several short soli, their effect was
ravishing. Before the orchestra, were the Court singers, men and boys,
about fifty in number, all in red uniform embroidered with gold. After
the first part of _Sarti’s_ oratorio, _Remi_ played a violin concerto
by _Alday_ with much success. “After the concert as we drove home, he
asked me for my opinion of his playing. As truth alone should be spoken
between friends I did not withold from him that: clean and pure as his
playing was, I had yet missed the shades of forte and piano, expression
in the cantabile, and a sufficiency of vigour in the passages. He
thanked me for my candour and declared that he had been particularly
embarrassed that day, at having to appear in Herr _Eck’s_ place, the
latter having previously been advertised for this concerto.”--After
the second part of the oratorio, Signor _Delphino_ played a violin
concerto. As his playing was much extolled I had expected more from
him. “He played without taste, and not once perfectly clean.”
The Italian singers appeared in the second concert, and the French in
the third. Among the first, Signor _Pasco_ and Madame _Canavassi_,
already mentioned, distinguished themselves. Among the French there
were only two, _M. St. Leon_ and the celebrated _Phyllis Andrieux_, who
could lay claim to be called singers; they had charmed all Petersburgh
by their correct and pleasing singing, their skilful and graceful
acting, and their personal beauty. There was especially a Polonaise
with which the latter fascinated everybody, and which was always
encored. The beginning of it is found in my diary as follows:
[Music]
Between the first and second part of this concert, the Imperial
hornists executed an ouverture by _Gluck_, and with a rapidity and
exactness which would have been difficult for stringed instruments,
how much the more so then for hornists, each of whom blew only one
tone! It is hardly to be believed that they performed the most rapid
passages with the greatest precision, and I could not have conceived it
possible, had I not heard it with my own ears. But as may be imagined,
the Adagio of the ouverture made a greater effect than the Allegro; for
it always remains somewhat unnatural to execute such quick passages
with these living organ pipes, and one could not help thinking of the
thrashings which must have been inflicted.
These concerts, with the exception of one in which Herr _Eck_ played
and Mademoiselle _Phyllis_ sang, were but little frequented; for which
reason the managers soon discontinued them.
On the other hand a performance of _Haydn’s_ “Seasons” which was given
for the benefit of a widow’s fund, (also during Lent,) was very well
attended. Baron _Rall_, one of the projectors invited me also to take
part. I therefore shared in all the orchestra rehearsals, and in these,
as well as in the performance, played with M. _Leveque_, the same
part. The orchestra was larger than any I had yet heard. It consisted
of seventy violins, thirty bass, and double set wind instruments. The
whole therefore was something very grand, and my diary mentions it with
delight; as also of the work itself, which I then heard for the first
time, although I estimated the “Creation” _yet higher!_
My playing thus with _Leveque_, had increased our friendship, and I
learned from him that, during the summer he intended to visit his
parents in Hanover. We therefore agreed to make the voyage to Lübeck in
the same vessel.
As my new friend now visited me oftener, I played my new violin
concerto to him, and expressed my wish, to hear it with the orchestra
before I sent it to the publisher. _Leveque_ immediately offered to
study it with his orchestra, took the parts with him, and invited me to
a rehearsal some days later.
“I was in great agitation now that I was about to hear my own
composition with full orchestra for the first time. The Tutti were
well studied, and from this I could calculate how, in every part, the
effect I intended would be brought out. The most of them satisfied me,
some even surpassed my expectation...... But I was the less pleased
with my own play. All my attention being fixed on the accompaniment, I
played much worse than I did at home. I therefore begged permission of
Mr. _Leveque_ to try the concerto once more at the end of eight or ten
days, when I should have received the copy; this permission he readily
granted.”
The following appears later: “I got the copy of my concerto yesterday,
for which I was obliged to pay eight silver rubles. I could have had
six concertos copied for a like sum in Germany.”
The work was again tried from the new-copied parts. I was much calmer
than the first time, and played therefore much better. It was also
better accompanied than before, and therefore more effective. _Leveque_
declared himself very well satisfied. “I therefore hastened home,
packed up my concerto and took it, together with a letter, to the post.
I there heard to my great amazement, that there was no parcel’s post
in Russia by which one can send things out of the country, and that
if I would send it as a letter I should have to pay at least fifty
rubles.” I therefore took it back in order to send it by sea by the
next opportunity.
I have mentioned the Imperial hornband, each member of which had only
one note to play. On the twelfth of January, the Russian Newyear,
upon which day the Emperor, as usual, gave a grand masquerade in the
Winterpalace, for which twelve thousand tickets were issued, I found
the said band joined with the usual Ball-orchestra, and I heard a music
such as till then I had no idea of. “The accompaniment of this hornband
gave a fullness and harmony to the orchestra such as I have never
heard. Several Horn-Soli, produced a most enchanting effect. It was
long before I could tear myself away from this place.”
In another saloon opposite the Throne-room, the Imperial family,
surrounded by the Court, were dancing. But as this part of the saloon
was cut off from the rest by a wall of gigantic grenadiers with high
bearskin caps, and as I, inspite of my fair allowance of inches, could
not even peep over the shoulders of these giants, I was unable to
see much of the Imperial state, and of the diamonds of the ladies.
I therefore passed on, and entered the third and most beautiful of
the saloons. It is entirely of polished marbles, the walls white,
the pillars violet, and the window frames blue. The lights mirrored
themselves a thousandfold in the polished stone. The whole building was
lighted by twenty thousand wax tapers.
“After wandering several times through the apartments, and having gazed
at all the magnificence, I tried to find Herr _Eck_ again, he having
been separated from me in the beginning of the evening. Among the
twelve thousand present this was however a vain attempt. I now guessed
that he had gone direct home, and not finding our servant in the place
where he had been desired to wait, confirmed me still more in this
idea. I therefore thought it best to proceed home, also, and hoped,
thoroughly warmed as I was, to be able to go the short distance to our
hotel without a cloak, although the cold had increased to twenty four
degrees. But hardly had I reached the square before the Winterpalace,
on the opposite side of which was our hotel, then I felt my nose and
ears stiffen, and should certainly have had them frozen, although
I rubbed them unceasingly, had I not been able to warm myself at a
large fire in the middle of the square which had been lighted for the
coachmen; before I attempted the other half of the way. Unluckily,
however, Herr _Eck_ had not yet come home, and as he had the key to our
apartment, and the coffeeroom was already locked, I resolved to return
again. Arrived there I managed to press forward to a buffet, and warm
myself with a glass of punch. While I was observing the rich gold and
silver plate with which the room was decorated, Herr _Eck_ also came to
the buffet. Arm in arm we wandered through the magnificient rooms once
more, and then our servant with our cloaks having once more turned up,
drove off together. My friend _Remi_, to whom I related my adventure,
blamed me much for my want of precaution.”
On the 27. Feb. the so called “mad week” came to an end. It has its
name from the circumstance of the Russians allowing themselves the most
boundless extravagancies as a sort of indemnification for the ensuing
fast. “Not being allowed to taste either meat, milk, or butter for six
weeks, they cram themselves well for the last time, and give themselves
so diligently to the brandy bottle, that they do not recover their
sobriety, and in this state allow themselves every possible liberty,
thinking to atone fully for all in the following fast.--In all parts of
the town, booths are erected, in which fruit, liquors, and comfits are
sold. In others, Polichinelli, trained dogs, juggler’s tricks and other
things of the kind are exhibited. The chief delight of the Russians
during this week is sliding down the ice-mountains, most likely because
it is such a break-neck sport. Upon the Newa, and in various other
places, high scaffoldings are erected, having on one side a flight
of steps by which to ascend to the top, and on the other an incline
descending gradually to the ground. This incline is laid down with
large slabs of ice, which are joined together in the closest manner by
water poured between the interstices. Down this glass-like surface of
ice, the descent is then made in little sledges shod with steel, and
these are guided by means of a short staff held in each hand. Great
skill is required in order to keep the middle of the incline during
the extreme velocity of the descent, so as not to fall over the sides
which are protected by a slight barrier only. Four drunken Russians,
who had scarcely started, having come in contact with each other’s
sledges and being thereby brought too near the barrier, paid dearly for
their awkwardness. They fell over; two were killed upon the spot and
the others were carried away with broken limbs. But this did not in the
least disturb the enjoyment of the people, who pressed forward anew in
crowds to the steps. On the 26, the Court drove out to the scene, and
remained for a long time spectators of the neck-breaking amusement.
At an evening party at _Baron Rall’s_, I met also the Governor of
Narva, who upon our passing through that town, had had us fetched
almost forcibly to his house. He enquired in a friendly manner after
my health; and added “on your return through Narva you will find the
Petersburgh gate open, but the opposite one closed, and then you must
remain my prisoner for eight days without mercy.”
“This evening, _Field_ played as well as Herr _Eck_, and in truth
wonderfully. At two o’clock, the company sat down to supper, and we did
not arrive home till past four o’clock.”
On the 5. April, my birth-day; Herr _Eck_ invited me to dine at the
Hôtel de Londres. Previous to this, availing ourselves of the fine
weather we took a walk on the Newa, the granite-faced bank of which
was the resort of the _beau monde_. The breaking up of the ice was
impatiently looked for, and heavy bets were made respecting the day
on which this would take place.--In the evening I had a great and
unexpected pleasure.
“_Remi_ had again invited me to play duetts with him, and to day I was
able to bring him a new one of my composition. After we had played
this through for the second time, he embraced me and said: You must
change violins with me, so that we may both possess a souvenir of each
other! I was overcome with surprise and joy; for his violin had long
pleased me better than my own. But as it was a genuine _Guarneri_, and
at least worth as much again as mine, I felt obliged to decline his
offer. He, however, would hear of no refusal and said: Your violin
pleases me because I have heard you play on it so frequently, and
though mine is really a better one; yet you must accept it from me as a
birth-day present! I could now no longer refuse, and overjoyed carried
my new treasure home with me. Here I would have liked but too well to
play on it all night, and feast my ears with its heavenly tones; but
as Herr _Eck_ was already gone to bed, I was obliged to let it lie
quietly in its case. Sleep, however, I could not!” On the 12. April,
_Herr Leveque_ came for me to take a walk down to the Newa. “We there
found half St. Petersburgh assembled, awaiting the breaking up of the
ice. At length, a cannon shot from the fortress announced the long
desired moment. This was also the signal for the sailors to break up
the long bridge of boats which connects Wasiliostrow with this part of
the city. This was effected in a few minutes. The ice could now float
down unimpeded, and in a short time boats were being rowed up and
down. The first of these brought over the Governor of the fortress,
who accompanied by a numerous suite and by the band of the regiment,
brings over a glass of the water of the Newa to the Emperor in his
Palace, and receives for it a present of 1000 roubles. After this, the
serf-seamen of the Crown in red uniforms row all comers to and fro
across, without charge, until the communication by the bridge of boats
is re-established between both sides of the town. After we had looked
on all this with great interest, walking up and down for some hours, we
returned home.”
On Easter-Eve, Sunday, 17. April, I was awakened by the firing of
cannon, which announced the commencement of the Festival. As the night
was very calm, every shot was heard in long repeated echoes, until
another fell upon the ear.--On Easter Sunday the Russian greets his
acquaintances with the words: “Christ is risen!” upon which the person
saluted is obliged to kiss the other. One need only go to the window,
to see people on all sides embracing and kissing each other. It was
related to me that, “the Empress Catherine was walking on the bank
of the Newa one Easter Sunday accompanied by all her Court, when a
dirty fellow, probably somewhat drunk, threw himself in her way with
the salutation: “Christ is risen” upon which in order not to violate
the holy custom, she was obliged to kiss him. But, upon a sign given
by her, he was immediately seized, and had ample time afterwards in
Siberia to repent of his boldness!”
A few weeks afterwards, I received a commission from _Breitkopf &
Härtel_ of Leipsic to write an article upon the state of Music in St.
Petersburgh for their Journal, which was published in the course of
1803.
On the 13. May, a most original popular Festival took place. Every body
who possesses either a carriage, a horse, or a sound pair of legs,
betakes himself on this day through the Riga gate to the Katharinen
Hof; where they stare at each other for a couple of hours and then
return home. I went there with _Leveque_, and must confess, that the
sight of the handsome equipages, of which there may have been at least
two thousand, together with their fashionably dressed occupants,
afforded me much amusement. Katharinen Hof is a small wood, which
considering the climate looks tolerably green. From here one has a fine
view of the sea. In the middle of the wood stands the Summer-Palace of
Peter the Great, which together with its antique furniture is still
kept up in exactly the same condition as when he lived there. It is a
very poor looking place, and more like the house of a citizen than the
Palace of a mighty Emperor. We returned home by another road, and saw
numerous fine Villas and gardens, of which there are a great number
outside this gate.
Thus amid various occupations, and short excursions to view the
magnificent City, the time of our departure drew nigh. We agreed
for our passage by sea with a Lubeck captain to whom for the voyage
inclusive of board for both of us, we paid 20 ducats. Just before we
left, we were present during the celebration of another grand Festival
which I have minutely described. It was the Jubilee commemorating the
foundation of St. Petersburgh by Peter the Great, one hundred years
since.