CHAPTER IX.

THE DISTRICT OF THE FALLS.

The Congo in the district of the Falls--Progress of

European occupation--Proposed line of railway--The rock of

Palaballa--Caravan route--Passage of the Luvu--A native

market--Passage of the Kuilu--Mount Bidi--Station of Lukungu

and adjacent settlements--The Bakongo--Service of porters--Mr.

Ingham and Mr. Rose Troup--The River Inkissi--Arrival at Stanley

Pool.

Parallel to the coast of Africa, and at no great distance from it,

there lies a range of low mountains, formed on the edge of the

plateaus, the uniformity of which is broken at intervals by some

isolated peaks. Across this coast-chain the waters collected in the

central plains have hollowed out for themselves channels along which

they escape towards the sea, and these channels are shut in by rocky

cliffs between which the streams roll on with an impetuous rush.

Of these watercourses none is so noted, nor at the same time so wild

and romantic, as that along which pours the enormous volume of the

waters of the Congo. Between Matadi and Leopoldville the stream is

interrupted by no less than thirty-two falls or rapids, every one of

which presents a spectacle of real magnificence.

[Illustration: THE CONGO AT THE STATION OF ISANGHILA.

(_From a Sketch by M. Manduan._)]

Imagination may well conceive of the river-bed as a gigantic staircase,

some 200 miles in length, descending from an altitude of 800 feet, and

divided by thirty-two steps all differing in width and height; it is

enclosed on either hand by rocky banks, and ever and again obstructed

by dark projecting reefs and blocks of stone of every size and shape.

Such is the Cyclopean channel along which rushes the Congo. It is the

monarch of the Old-World rivers, here in its infant course spreading

out into an expanse of water some 2000 or 3000 yards wide, and here

again contracting itself to a breadth of 300 yards, but continuously

gaining in its depth and velocity what it loses in its superficial

extent. At every angle of the channel through which it rolls it

seems to assume a different character; in one place it appears to be

possessed with a furious rage that is indomitable, as it precipitates

itself into an amphitheatre of rocks where the waters whirl in

tumultuous eddies and dashing themselves against the granite crags are

mingled in terrific chaos; at another place, after having continued

its wild career for some miles (as at the rapids of Nsongo and Lumba),

the foaming billows of the river gradually subside and are lulled to

rest, till they spread themselves out in the tranquillity of a placid

lake.

The calm, however, is all a delusion; soon again the still waters

are animated with redoubled fury; once more they dash forward with

increased velocity, and finding a yet steeper slope, they hurl

themselves into another of the romantic gorges, where they renew their

ebullitions with an awful roar.

On either side of the river, as thus it tears along its impetuous

course, are lines of hills, often rising into peaks with bare summits,

broken either by sloping valleys or by deep ravines, the sides of

which are clothed with tall rank grass, except in parts where they are

marshy, or covered with dense forests.

Such is the region of the Falls; such is the giant barrier which Nature

has erected almost adjacent to the mouth of the Congo, as though she

desired to throw every impediment she could in the way of access to

these regions of Africa, and to do her utmost to provide a bulwark to

defend the wealth of the interior. For three centuries every effort of

the intruder has been baffled; the barrier has been effectual to rebuff

every expedition that has been taken in hand, and has defied each

successive attempt to penetrate the secrets of the mysterious land.

It was reserved for Stanley to overcome the obstacle, but the

achievement was accomplished at the cost of enormous labour and large

sacrifice of life.

In 1877, when he was in command of the expedition that had been started

under the joint auspices of the _New York Herald_ and the _Daily

Telegraph_, he took no less than five months in descending the river

from Stanley Pool to Boma, his progress being perpetually impeded both

by the practical difficulties of the road and by the hostility of the

natives. On the way he lost fifteen of his men, including Frank Pocock,

the last of his European associates.

Two years later he again appeared upon the scene, this time under

commission from the King of the Belgians, and at the head of an

expedition for “the survey of the Upper Congo.” Carrying sections of

steamers and buildings, as well as a variety of materials in his

train, he spent a further two years in making his way up from Vivi to

Stanley Pool. During this time six Europeans and fifty natives died,

whilst fifteen other white men became so unwell that they were obliged

to return. Such was the original balance-sheet of that memorable

enterprise that bears so striking a testimony to the unwavering

confidence, the rare courage, and the indomitable energy of its leader.

At present no less than twelve European settlements mark out the

new route, and more than 5000 native porters are at the service of

the white men, making a journey in perfect safety from Matadi to

Leopoldville in twenty days, conveying European merchandise to the

Pool, and bringing back large cargoes of ivory from the upper districts

to the steamers on the river below.

[Illustration: THE BELGIANS ON THE CONGO.--DEPARTURE OF A

CARAVAN.

(_From a Photograph by Dr. Allart._)]

Considerable, however, as is the progress made within the last six

years, it does not yet satisfy the requirements of the pioneers of

civilisation. Looking to the fertile lands of the interior, and

taking account of the vast regions, alike wealthy and populous,

that are drained by the immense navigable network of the Upper

Congo, they cannot fail to realise that so long as these districts

are unconnected with the sea by some quick and easy means of

communication, they must necessarily continue, in spite of their rich

promise, to be comparatively uncultivated and unproductive.

It was in view of this that Captain Van de Velde took upon himself to

say: “Even for the organisation of a transport service either of horses

and mules or of waggons drawn by oxen, it would be necessary to make

a wide and substantial roadway, as well as to throw permanent bridges

over the ravines and torrents, a system entailing large importations of

draught cattle, which would further involve the establishment of farms,

studs, and places of pasturage. But the time for all this is over! The

day of vans and waggons is gone; it is only steam that can be adopted

as an economical method of traction. Locomotives do not suffer from the

climate; they require no veterinary skill, a native smith can suffice;

meanwhile for fodder all they want is wood, of which the district of

the Congo supplies ample store; and even this may be dispensed with

when they are worked by electricity generated by the motive power of

the cataracts.”

It has been resolved accordingly that a railroad should be constructed.

Already a party of French and Belgian engineers, under the direction

of Messrs. Cambier and Charmanne, is engaged in the survey of the

land between Matadi and the Pool, with the design of ascertaining

the best route and of estimating the cost. If Stanley could have had

these locomotives of the future at his disposal a few days would have

sufficed for the transport of his 800 men with their 1500 packages to

Stanley Pool without fatigue, an undertaking which on foot, along the

rough tracks of the caravans, could only be accomplished by a month’s

hard marching.

Beyond Matadi, after the passage of the Mpozo, the first obstacle on

the way is the rock-wall of Palaballa. This is crossed by a steep path

bordered by blocks of white quartz. At its summit, which is about

2000 feet above sea-level, is a flourishing settlement founded by the

English Baptist Mission; and the vast mountain panorama viewed from

thence opens before the traveller some idea of the country he has to

cross, and indicates the difficulties he must have to encounter.

[Illustration: THE EXPEDITION ON ITS WAY PAST THE FALLS.]

The caravan road is a mere footpath, rarely more than thirty inches

wide, winding through a stifling labyrinth of grass several yards

high. Long and toilsome ascents under the glare of the African sun

are succeeded by descents equally wearisome leading to the marshes in

the hollow of the deep ravines. At intervals along the slopes there

are extensive groves of palm-trees or bananas, baobabs also being not

uncommon. On the lower ground the way proceeds through fine forests,

thick with trees of various species, connected one with another by

wreaths of creepers that form verdant arches overhead, and are the

resort of the widow-bird, with its black plumage and long tail, as well

as of countless smaller birds resembling bengalis, which rise in swarms

as their solitude is disturbed. Only in single file is it possible for

any caravan to make advance, so that the expedition with its 750 men

would be extended for a length little short of half a mile.

On the 29th of March Stanley reached the Luvu, one of the affluents of

the Congo on its southern bank. Across this river the agents of the

Free State have formed a suspension-bridge of iron rods attached to

baobabs on either bank, a structure of which white men and Zanzibaris

avail themselves, but so frail that the natives, as a rule, hesitate to

trust their feet upon it, as it oscillates so suspiciously under their

weight.

Beyond Palaballa the country is almost reduced to the condition of a

desert, mainly in consequence of the withdrawal of the natives from

the neighbourhood of the caravan routes. This they have done not from

any fear of the white man, whom they are disposed to trust entirely,

but through the depredations of the negro porters, who have no sense

of any rights of property save the rights of the strongest. With the

recent increase of the caravan traffic between Matadi and Leopoldville

the damage done to the plantations adjacent to the line of route

became more and more intolerable; while in addition to this, the

soldiers, Haoussa, Zanzibari, or Bangala, who were engaged for escort,

would perpetually commit outrages which the European was powerless

to repress. The natives, therefore, recognised the expediency of

retiring further off; they removed their huts, and re-erected them

at such a distance from the line of thoroughfare as they concluded

would render their homesteads safe from the attacks of such marauders.

It followed, as a consequence of this migration, that on entering

the district Stanley’s 750 men had nothing to depend on from the

products of the place. They found themselves without the opportunity

of providing their requisite supplies, because there were no longer

any of the accustomed markets to which the inhabitants of the villages

within reach of the route had hitherto been sending the produce of

their fields, their hunting-grounds, and their fisheries. Even in

the interior of the country when the report was circulated that the

notorious Boula Matari was advancing with 1000 men, all armed with

guns, the alarm was so great that for a week the ordinary market-places

were quite deserted.

[Illustration: YOUNG CHIAÏKA GIRL.

(_From a Photograph by Mr. Spencer Burns._)]

Very notable are these markets as demonstrating the commercial

capabilities of the natives, which are quite surprising. A visit to one

of them, that of Kuzo-Kienzi, is described by Captain Thys: “Here,” he

says, “is a gathering of between 200 and 300 salespeople of both sexes,

with their variety of goods displayed either in baskets or spread out

on banana leaves, a throng of purchasers meanwhile moving to and fro

and inspecting the commodities. The women, who are more numerous than

the men, squat down in front of their goods and exhibit a peculiar

aptitude for their occupation; they solicit the attention of the

passer-by, they eulogise the quality of what they offer to sell, they

exclaim indignantly when a price is tendered below the proper value,

and with insinuating smile beguile their customers to make a purchase.

The sale of vegetables is entirely committed to the women.

“The enumeration of the articles exhibited for sale comprises a long

list. At Kuzo-Kienzi I have myself seen goats, pigs, fowls, fish (both

fresh and smoke-dried), hippopotamus-meat and hides, rows of spitted

rats, locusts, shrimps, sweet potatoes, maize, haricot beans, green

peas, yams, bananas, earth-nuts, eggs, manioc (cooked as well as raw),

manioc-bread, made up both into rolls and long loaves, pine-apples,

sugar-cane, palm-nuts, tobacco-leaves in considerable quantity,

palm-wine supplied either in jars procured from the coast or in their

own native calebashes, cabbages, sorrel, spinach, pimento, and punnets

of mixed salad arranged very much as in our European market-gardens.

In addition to these I noticed a few small lots of ivory, strong ropes

of native manufacture, mats, European stuffs in considerable variety,

powder, glass, pottery, beads--in short, almost every conceivable kind

of ware.

[Illustration: NATIVES OF THE REGION OF THE FALLS.]

“Avenues run through the market-place, which is divided into sections

each appropriated to its own kind of merchandise; in one place

is the ivory-mart, in another the tobacco-mart, by far the greater

allotments being assigned to the vegetable department.

“There are three kinds of currency in use--the handkerchief, the

mitaku, which is brass-wire, and the blue bead known as ‘matare.’ A

class of men who may be described as a sort of money-changers have

their own proper quarters, effecting such exchanges as the business of

the market may require.

“As an ordinary rule traffic would commence about ten in the morning

and be continued till nearly four in the afternoon; and the close

of the market I must reluctantly report is characterised by those

scenes of disorder which not unfrequently are witnessed in the like

circumstances at home. Immoderate drinking as ever provokes angry

disputes, the intoxicating palm-wine being here the substitute for beer

and gin.”

To fall in with such a bustling market as this would have been an

inestimable boon to the caravan which, with the exception of a few

porters who had succumbed to illness or fatigue, safely reached the

Lukunga, in good order, on the 8th of April.

A pleasing exception is the Lukunga to the general aspect of the

Congo-banks in the region of the Falls. Its valley is fertile, and the

soil well adapted to the cultivation of any kind of tropical produce,

so that attempts have been already made to promote the growth of

mountain-rice, coffee, eucalyptus, and other crops.

Stretched across the landscape on the far side of the Lukunga lies the

Ndunga range, the loftiest in the entire district, from the middle of

which, rearing itself some 800 feet above the surrounding eminences,

is a quartzose projection, known as Mount Bidi. The summit of this

commands an extensive view. At the base of the mountain, between the

Congo on the north and the village of Lutete on the east, are valleys

rich in vegetation and abounding in plantations, from which the

requirements of many villages are supplied. Further off is a succession

of extensive plains, on which dark green tracts indicate the position

of other villages nestling in the shelter of their venerable “safos.”

It is here at the Lukunga that the second portion of the Falls district

is reached. Here, too, seems to be the boundary beyond which the

grasping, idle native, brutalised by alcohol, is no longer to be seen

as he is on the lower river; he is replaced by the negro, sturdy and

industrious, who for centuries has maintained business relations both

with the Pool and with the Portuguese colony of Angola.

There are six European settlements in the district. One station

belonging to the State is at Lukungu, and another at Manyanga-South; at

Lukungu, too, there is an American mission; an English Baptist mission

has been settled at Lutete; a Rotterdam firm has a store at Ndunga;

and the Belgian Society for trade with the Upper Congo, of which the

headquarters are at Brussels, maintains a station at Manyanga-South.

The country generally is well-populated. Neither caravans nor negro

porters are objects of terror to the natives, who, living as they do

in such near proximity to the white men, feel themselves assured of

adequate protection.

The indigenous population mainly belong to the Bakongo tribe. They

occupy the southern bank of the river from the Congo-Portuguese

frontier near Nokki as far as Stanley Pool. Chiefly agriculturists,

they, however, do a considerable trade in ivory, palm-oil, caoutchouc,

and earth-nuts. To procure their ivory they make long journeys

eastward, and thus become intermediate agents between the tribes of the

interior and the factories that have been planted on the lower river

and on the coast. Although their own country abounds in elephants, they

rarely hunt them, apparently not having weapons sufficiently strong to

attack such pachydermata.

Distinct communities are formed by the various agglomerations of huts.

In the districts near the river the hamlets are somewhat scattered and

small; but in the interior where the population is more dense, villages

of considerable magnitude exist; for instance, Mwala, in the Inkissi

basin, visited by Lieut. Hackinson of the Congo State in 1886, might

without impropriety be called a town, as it reckons 2000 inhabitants.

[Illustration: A NATIVE CHIEF OF THE LOWER CONGO, WITH HIS

MINISTERS AND BOYS.

(_From a Photograph by R. P. Kraft._)]

Throughout the region there are very few chiefs possessing anything

like absolute power or authority, either on account of their wealth

or of any terror they can inspire. Formerly there were some leaders

with pretensions to be potentates who succeeded more or less in

establishing a kind of sovereignty and in exacting tribute, but these

have now disappeared. As matter of fact the title of “prince” which

is now given to the ostensible village chief on the Lower Congo is

quite inaccurate. Sovereignty, as we in Europe understand it, does not

exist among the Bakongo. The recognised chief is generally the oldest

freeman; the others consult him, respect his opinion and yield him

homage, but they pay him no tribute and are under no obligation to

obey him. It might almost be said that with certain limitations every

Bakongo is his own chief.

This peculiar political organisation, and, combined with it, the

singular aptitude for trade exhibited by the natives, constitute

two highly important factors in the future of the new State; and

it was these considerations that led Colonel de Winton, the former

Administrator-General, to maintain that he did not believe that

throughout the uncivilised world there existed a territory which

for security to Europeans and for commercial prospects offered such

advantages as the basin of the Congo. It is noteworthy that during the

ten years or more in which Europeans have been exploring the country,

neither in French Congo nor in Free State Congo has _one single white

man_ lost his life by any assault on the part of the natives.

Agriculture amongst the Bakongo is on a somewhat advanced line; and

they have a large variety of crops, such as maize, manioc, yams, sweet

potatoes, earth-nuts, egg-plants, cabbages, and beans. They also grow

palms, sugar-canes, cotton, and tobacco, as well as many kinds of

fruit-trees, including bananas, guavas, and citrons. Each village is

surrounded by its own plantation, and the inhabitants never suffer from

deficiency of food.

Cotton is used for sewing purposes; and a kind of grass, as well as

the fibre of the pine-apple, which grows very abundantly, furnishes

material for the manufacture of some serviceable fabrics.

A strong, industrious race are the Bakongo, thoroughly alive to the

conviction that they must work if they would live. They are very keen

in their desire to obtain goods of European make; and it is for the

sake of procuring them that the young men are ready to be hired as

porters, an occupation in itself far more toilsome than field labour.

Already the people are beginning to develop a certain amount of taste

approaching to luxury in the construction and internal arrangements of

their dwellings, so that a chief will replace his hut by a house of

plaster or of wood. More than in other districts the women are in a

subordinate position, for as the men themselves do the field-work, they

are more exacting of their wives in other duties. All the valleys being

under cultivation, there are comparatively few of the wooded gorges

that are frequent in other parts of the country.

It is especially in the district between Manyanga, Lukungu, and Lutete

that the natives are recruited as porters for the transport service

which has now regularly established itself, and is in active operation

between the Lower and Upper Congo.

For the service between Matadi and Manyanga, Lukungu is the chief

hiring centre. The “Capitas,” or conductors of caravans, are engaged

there. These agents, having first received their “Mokande” by way of

license or permit, present themselves with their men to the Controller

at Matadi. Here the loads are given out, an average weight of seventy

pounds being assigned to each porter. The Capita takes charge of the

whole, superintends the transport all the way to Manyanga, where upon

due delivery of the goods he receives a form of acknowledgment, which

he carries back to Lukungu, where he obtains his payment for the

transaction.

Manyanga itself is the centre for engaging porters to proceed to

the Pool. They come chiefly from the environs of Lutete and the

neighbourhood of the river Inkissi, and do not fail in numbers.

At present there are several thousand young men from eighteen to

twenty-five years of age who are not unwilling to be hired by the

month, and this in a country where seven years ago the representatives

of the Congo Association were almost baffled in their efforts to get

any help whatever. The explanation of the altered condition of things

is found in the fact that during the interval children have not only

grown to be young men, but have had such peaceable associations with

Europeans, learning the value of their commodities, that in order to

procure them for themselves they are anxious to engage themselves in

their service. Thus it has been brought about that Lukungu, Lutete, and

Manyanga all contribute towards the supply of porters, so that for some

time to come there is no likelihood of any deficiency of labour of this

kind. Every day the “wants” of the native population are increasing;

clothing is becoming general, the use of sandals is getting more and

more common, and in this region, where the nights and early mornings

are chilly, there is nothing more prized than a rug or blanket of some

kind. To become the owner of such novelties the native is ready to

undertake almost any task upon which the white man may employ him: at

present he is only a porter; but there is nothing in the way of his

becoming a navvy or an artisan.

[Illustration: GROUP OF KROOBOY SERVANTS.

(_From a Photograph by Dr. Allart._)]

Lieutenant Franqui, who for two years had been in charge of the station

of Lukungu, has demonstrated the extraordinary impulse given to the

transport service between Matadi and Leopoldville in 1887, which was

just the date of the passage of the expedition. His figures speak for

themselves.

“Some internecine wars,” he says, “and more especially the discontent

of the natives, who had misgivings about the competition which

would arise from rival commercial establishments being settled at

Leopoldville, caused a temporary check in the supply of porters.

“At the beginning of 1887 loads were accumulating on the lower river,

and the condition of things was becoming more serious because further

large transports were known to be on the way. Already the storehouses

at Matadi contained upwards of 4000 packages, representing over 100

tons weight, whilst the arrival had been notified of the steamers

_Ville de Bruxelles_ and _Roi des Belges_ bringing 6000 loads

more; and besides this there were 1800 loads of supplies for the Congo

Company. Meanwhile there was a standing contract for the transport of

400 loads a month; and now, to crown it all, came the announcement of

the approach of Stanley’s Expedition for the relief of Emin Pasha,

which would necessitate the conveyance of 1200 loads more, and which

demanded the utmost despatch.

“At that time the entire direction of the transport service was in my

hands. First appealing to the zeal of my European staff, I endeavoured

to make the natives understand that it would be for their own interest

that they should work for the Government, and in a month the State

was informed that 7000 men had been engaged. During March I had the

satisfaction of despatching over 5000 porters with their loads.

“The business firms who managed transport on their own account suffered

considerably from the recruiting thus effected on behalf of the State,

as in addition to the 5000 porters there were at least 5000 natives

employed in the various stores. So that, during a single month, more

than 8000 men were engaged for carrying on the caravan traffic between

Matadi and Leopoldville.

“All through the ensuing months recruiting went on briskly, and porters

flocked in, with the result that by the end of October nearly every one

of the loads had been forwarded from Matadi. I am thus in the position

to testify that within an interval of eight months more than 30,000

loads were transported, and, reckoning the porters who undertook the

work as far as Lukungu, not less than 60,000 men were employed.”

Nor again could any one better attest the remarkable progress that

had been made in the facility of securing porters than Messrs. Ingham

and Rose Troup, who were sent direct from Liverpool to provide for

the transport of Stanley’s baggage. The state of things had become

altogether different since the time when they were first in the service

of the Congo Association. They had now no difficulty in finding

1500 men to carry out the required task. Mr. Ingham took charge of

the transport between Matadi and Manyanga, Mr. Troup undertaking

the arrangements between Manyanga and Leopoldville. Both of them

accomplished their mission with complete success. On the way to the

Pool one gang of porters met other gangs returning to Matadi to bring

up the baggage that had been left behind; but everything was well

ordered, and in a month all was safely deposited at Leopoldville.

On the 8th of April, at 11 A.M., the first to arrive at

Lukungu was Tippoo Tib, with his troop. He made himself known to

Lieutenant Franqui, who invited him to his verandah and offered him

coffee. Tippoo Tib mentioned Boma, saying that it had appeared to him

to be a place of some importance, and regretting that lack of time had

prevented him from landing to inspect it. He likewise spoke highly of

the caravan route beyond Banza-Manteka, and pronounced it well adapted

for the transport of ivory. He then exhibited the contract that had

been signed by himself and Stanley at Zanzibar, and had been deposited

in a box containing various documents and photographs of Van Gele,

Wissmann, Wester, Gleerup, and others.

[Illustration: THE CONGO IN THE DISTRICT OF THE FALLS.

(_From a Sketch by M. Manduan._)]

Stanley, with the main contingent of the party, arrived about two hours

later, and mounted on their fine white donkeys, all the Europeans made

their entry. Out of the flock of fifteen merino sheep which had been

brought from the Cape only one was missing, which had yielded to

fatigue on the previous day. As chief of the expedition, Stanley, for

himself and his staff, accepted an invitation to dine at the station,

where he spoke in high spirits, and declared that he was full of

confidence in the ultimate success of his enterprise.

Next morning the whole force mustered for an inspection of their arms

and equipment. There were four companies, each numbering about 200 men.

The Zanzibaris were under the charge of Messrs. Nelson, Stairs, and

Rose Troup, the Soudanese and Somalis being assigned to the control of

Major Barttelot. The companies were again subdivided into three groups,

each under the supervision of a nyampara, and provided with a red

banner.

On a square of about one hundred yards Stanley had the entire force

drawn out in double file, and proceeded with the utmost care to

investigate every detail, making the inspection with a calmness that

betokened the presence of a competent, conscientious, and far-seeing

leader.

In the evening the whole camp was _en fête_. All the Europeans,

those attached to the station as well as those belonging to the

expedition, joined in the merriment, Stanley himself at first leading

off one of the national dances of the Zanzibaris, and afterwards

beating time for their movements. The enthusiasm was great, and Stanley

was borne along in a frenzy of delight.

Trifling as it may seem, this is an instance of the adroitness with

which Stanley attracts to himself the devotion of his men. Those

who speak of him as unpopular with his followers must speak without

warrant: he is strict, but he is kind; and, what is more, while he

knows how to make the negroes submissive to his authority, he succeeds

in securing their attachment to himself.

When, at 10.30 A.M. on the following morning, the expedition,

in good order, made a start, it was only requisite to leave seven

men behind as invalids. Of these one died, two returned to Matadi,

the remaining four being able to rejoin the force before reaching

Leopoldville. Two months afterwards, several European newspapers,

professing to have trustworthy information, actually announced that the

expedition had been decimated by famine and that its line of march was

strewn with bodies of the dead!

[Illustration: A WATER-PASSAGE NEAR LOOTETE.

(_From a Sketch by M. Manduan._)]

Two whole days were occupied in the passage of the river Inkissi;

the whale-boat was launched, and had to go backward and forward, from

bank to bank, no less than eighty times. At the village of Nsello, near

the point of confluence, the river is 160 yards wide, and enclosed

by wooded cliffs varying from 50 to 100 yards in height. A few miles

higher up it is much broken by rapids, but further on, beyond the

village of Kilemfi, its course is perfectly free, and runs through

plains pleasing in aspect and populous with agricultural communities.

The country on the right bank is occupied by the Wambundu, a tribe

mainly engaged in the cultivation of the soil, and dependent on the

Matoko of Wazanzi, whose authority extends from the Inkissi to the

Pool. It is through this region that the projected railway would pass.

When, on the 27th of April, the expedition crossed the wooded rock of

Yombi, it was with no small feeling of relief that the announcement was

hailed that Stanley Pool could be distinguished in the distance, its

placid waters glistening between the trees.

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