CHAPTER IX.

THE PILGRIMAGES.

Islam's religion has many holy places and it is the duty of every

Mohammedan to visit these shrines unless circumstances hinder him.

Pilgrimages secure not only forgiveness of sins, but a great reputation

as well. Of all Mohammedan shrines there are four most remarkable.

Medina is the first. It was the birthplace of Mohammed. Here he lived

till he was six years old when his mother, Amina, died. A slave girl

faithfully nourished him and took him to Mecca. But his last days were

spent in Medina. When he was dying in the arms of Ayesha, Omar asked

him: "Prophet where do you wish us to bury you?" He answered: "Throw

the rein of the bridle on my camel's neck and I believe the angel

Gabriel will come and direct her where to go. There bury me." They did

so. His camel started off, but soon stopped and would not proceed

further. So they buried Mohammed there and a magnificent mosque stands

above his grave. This building is adorned with silver and gold and

Mohammedans worship it.

The second place is Mecca. This city is the most holy for all the

Mohammedan world. Here is the old temple of the Arabs the Kaaba which

was converted by Mohammed into a mosque. It has been rebuilt many times

by the rich kings of Islam. This mosque is among the seven wonders of

the world and is not inferior in beauty and cost' to Solomon's temple.

Outside at the gate is a black stone which the ancient Arabs worshiped

before Mohammed. Some said the stone was cast out of paradise with

Adam; others that it was cast down from heaven. Upon it Abraham offered

Isaac. The worshipers held a tradition that if anyone should place a

smooth stone on this holy stone and it should stick fast he should have

the wish of his heart. Many childless women use this means to find if

God will give them a child. Near the mosque is the well of Ab Zimzim,

_i.e._, living water. Mohammedans claim Abraham, Hagar and Jacob

quenched their thirst at this well. Jacob and other patriarchs, they

say, watered their sheep here. Many pilgrims have assured the writer

that the mosque of the Kaaba was originally built by the angel Gabriel.

There are two hundred million Moslems scattered throughout the world

and each of them turns his face toward this mosque and prays five times

daily.

The third place is Karballa. This city holds the second place in

sacredness in the estimation of the Mohammedans. It is situated in

Asiatic Turkey, near the famous city of Bagdad, where Saleek and

Katispon once flourished, ancient towns of the Christian Nestorians.

Here their patriarch dwells who ruled over all the Nestorian church.

After the death of Mohammed his four caliph successors overthrew these

places and took them from the Nestorians. Later a battle took place

here between these caliphs and the grandchildren of Mohammed to decide

which should be at the head of the new religion. The caliphs were

successful; the grandchildren being slain. They were buried here and

upon their graves was reared a magnificent mosque. Like that of Mecca

this, too, is adorned with gold and silver. Hundreds of rich men from

all parts of Persia give large offerings for this temple. Karballa has

different meanings. Some translate it the place of danger, some the

place of mourning, some the place of the killing of martyrs, others the

place of those holy men. Here in this city is the pope of all

Persia,--they call him prophet. In his hands is all the power of his

religion, and he has more power than the king. Everything he commands

they must do, even to the killing or massacring of all the Christians.

The king must do him formal reverence.

The fourth place is Mashhad. This city is situated in the northeast

part of Persia, in the state of Khorason, near the Caspian sea. This is

the most holy city in Persia. Here are buried many famous persons as

the grandchildren of Mohammed. This mosque is more rich than Mecca and

Karballa. The dome is gilded with gold outside and inside. Generally

each king of Persia makes expensive presents, but the most remarkable

event in this connection was two hundred years ago. Nadirshah, a

powerful king of Persia, he that conquered India and despoiled Calcutta

of its treasures,--made a present to this temple of a crown of gold,

adorned with precious stones. They say at night it is like the

Electricity building at the Columbian Exposition. They call it

Mashhad-Mokaddas, meaning holy. It is a place of martyrs. No Christians

or Jews are permitted to reside in this city. In the thirteenth century

this was the cathedral of the archbishop of the Nestorians.

PILGRIMAGES TO THE HOLY PLACES.

Mohammedan law commands all to go to these holy places. The books of

ceremony emphasize the importance of such pilgrimages. The hope of

remission of sins is given to all visitors, and they are thereafter

called by a different name from ordinary men. Everyone has confidence

in them; and sometimes for a witness they call from this class of men.

Their law is, every man able must go and God will be merciful to his

family, and afterward he will be rich. Everyone who refuses to go is

not a true Moslem and does not love his religion.

PREPARATION FOR THE JOURNEY.

Before going on this journey many fast and pray. They must repent of

every sin and sometimes one sees men praying in various ways, and it is

easy to see that they are preparing for a pilgrimage. They put on a

sorrowful countenance and walk about sadly,--all of which is merely for

vain glory. Every day they must wash and cleanse themselves and go to

the mosque. If they are at enmity with any man, they must first be

reconciled before their journey will be recognized. Some days before

starting some Say-yids, descendants of Mohammed who wear a blue turban

and are considered most honorable and holy men, who do not work, who

are not punished for any violation of law, will ride on blue horses

with long spears in their hands. They will walk in the streets crying

in a loud voice to all those who are to make a pilgrimage to prepare

themselves and be ready on a certain day. Together with this command is

uttered words of comfort and encouragement. They tell the people not to

fear. God will send for the sake of Mohammed His angels and prophets,

riding on blue horses, to deliver them from all robbers and thieves.

Yet many do die on this pilgrimage at the hands of desperate characters

of the desert or mountains.

ALMS-GIVING.

One month before starting each man must give according to his ability

for alms. They are besieged by the others to prepare food and drink for

feasts. If a man is rich the demand is repeated. Before starting the

pilgrim goes to the leader to inquire what is necessary for him to do

and how to do it that his pilgrimage be accepted. The priest will say

if the man is rich, "You found a mosque." If a man is poor a smaller

amount of money is required. The very poor are commanded to fast from

ten to forty days. Those who make their pilgrimage on horseback scatter

money on the way for the benefit of the beggars and the poor. As the

pilgrim sets out he is accompanied by friends for some distance as a

mark of honor to the faithful Islam. Before the band of pilgrims the

leader rides calling out in a loud voice, "Säläwät."

CARRYING THE DEAD.

Their law requires that not only the living but also the dead shall go

to these places. The dead are sometimes carried to the sacred cities

forty years after burial. Sometimes when a stingy man dies who has not

gone on a pilgrimage in his lifetime, he exacts a promise from his

relatives that a certain amount of his money will be used to carry his

body to a holy city. If this promise is not kept, the priest will

compel his relatives and heirs not only to restore the specified sum

for sacred purposes but more. When the poor man is about to die he

administers an oath to his relatives that after his death his body

shall at some future time be taken to Karballa. As a reward for this

service, the relatives will be blessed of God and made rich. The dead

are buried in a box so that at some appointed time the remains may be

exhumed and transferred to a new box and strapped to the back of a

horse and carried to the holy city. It matters not if the body has

decayed. If the bones remain it is not too late for the pilgrimage. If

the deceased has been very poor and his friends cannot take him in

person, they hire strangers to do it. Thus one may see the caravans

with hundreds of horses--sometimes thousands--with the boxes of dead

strapped to their backs on their way to the holy places.

MOTIVE IN PILGRIMAGES FOR THE DEAD.

The object of these trips is to secure heaven for the dead. Their

religion teaches that all who die in a holy city or who are buried

there find a home in heaven. Some say God has a multitude of spiritual

camels with riders who will come and carry the dead bodies to heaven.

If you say to them, "Flesh and bones cannot inherit the holy place of

God," they will answer, "Their spirit is taken to heaven, not their

body." Others will say, "The bones are not the original ones but

likenesses of them." Others say, "it is an honor to the prophets who

are buried in the holy city for other dead men to be buried there." At

an appointed time after burial it is believed that the dead will rise

and bow to the tombs of the prophets. This is the manner of their

worship: Those who go to Medina must arrive before a certain day

because on that particular day their worship is commenced. For two or

three days various ceremonies are performed such as fasting, prayer,

purification and washing of their bodies. When these are concluded, on

the fourth day they array themselves in a special robe for worship.

Without any covering on their feet they walk around the mosque seven

times. When they enter the mosque they bow themselves before the tomb

of Mohammed. After this bowing they walk seven times around the tomb of

the prophet. They then kneel down and kiss the tomb at the same time

placing such money upon it as they can spare. Upon leaving the mosque a

ram is killed as a sacrificial offering. On that day more than one

hundred thousand sheep are killed in that small city. This together

with the warm sun beating on the blood of the victims gives rise to the

most fearful of all scourges, cholera. In Karballa, Medina and Mashhad

worship is conducted in this manner.

THE FEMALE PILGRIM.

The law requires that females also go to these holy places. Girls at

every age are allowed to go, also children. Widows under fifty years

are not accepted as pilgrims, first, because of their probable desire

for marriage, and second because the law says no women must undertake a

pilgrimage alone for thus they would expose themselves to men. So in

order to go some marry for the occasion. The husband accompanies them

hither and upon returning either divorces them or keeps them as wives

or concubines.

THE RETURN OF THE PILGRIMS.

Those who went to Mecca from certain parts before trains began to run

in the east consumed a year or more in their journey, but now it takes

only six or eight months. Those going to Karballa take from three to

five months, likewise those going to Mashhad. Every band of pilgrims

when returning to their own city will send a messenger about ten days

ahead to announce that in so many days a band of pilgrims will appear

in the city. On the day of their arrival many hundred men will meet

them several miles from the city. The Say-yids ride before them crying

säläwäts. Friends and relatives kill lambs as a sacrifice before them.

This sacrifice is a holy thing and no man can touch it till its blood

is shed, but when it is beheaded, it belongs to God and the strongest

man takes it for his own. This being a sacred thing all are very

anxious to partake of it. The weak will do all they can to keep the

strong from carrying the sacrifice away. So there is always quarreling

when the pilgrims return. The acquaintances of the pilgrims will come

and say, "My portion be as thy portion. Blessed art thou. May your

pilgrimage be accepted," and the pilgrim will answer, "God grant that

you may also go to this Holy Place and receive remission of sin." Women

will sometimes cut pieces from the pilgrim's garments which are

supposed to be holy. At the pilgrims home many sheep are killed and a

variety of fine meats are cooked. People gather there to eat and drink

and they say to the host, "God bless your pilgrimage." He will answer,

"May the prophet give you success and grant that you, too, may visit

the Holy Place."

It is evident from the above descriptions that there is no place in

Islam for peace of conscience or absolute assurance of heaven. The

writer has often asked of Mohammedans: "Have you any hope of heaven?"

They say, "We don't know God knows." "Yes God knows everything but what

do you say of your hope?" He will reply, "I have no hope--but God is

merciful."

Many of them would receive Christ if there was freedom of worship.

There are even now some true Christians among the Moslems who secretly

like Nicodemus. Let us pray that God will open the way of freedom for

them.

Modern Persia · 第 9 / 12 章