CHAPTER XXXII.

MEXICAN MANNERS.

Among the most interesting things in Mexico are the customs followed

by the people, which are quaint, and, in many cases, pretty and

pleasing. Mexican politeness, while not always sincere, is vastly more

agreeable than the courtesy current among Americans. Their pleasing

manners seem to be inborn, yet the Mexican of Spanish descent cannot

excel the Indian in courtesy, who, though ignorant, unable to read or

write, could teach politeness to a Chesterfield. The moment they are

addressed their hat is in hand. If they wish to pass they first beg

your permission. Even a child when learning to talk is the perfection

of courtesy. If you ask one its name it will tell you, and immediately

add, "I am your servant" or "Your servant to command." This grows with

them, and when past childhood they are as near perfection in this line

as it is possible to be.

When woman meets woman then doesn't come "the tug of war," but instead

the "hug and kissing;" the kissing is never on the lips, but while one

kisses a friend on the right cheek, she is being kissed on the left,

and then they change off and kiss the other side. Both sides must be

kissed; this is repeated according to the familiarity existing between

them, but never on the lips, although with an introduction the lips

are touched. The hug--well, it is given in the same place as it is in

other countries, and in a right tight and wholly earnest manner. From

the first moment they are expected to address each other only by their

Christian names, the family name never being used.

The parlor furniture is arranged the same all over Mexico; the sofa is

placed against the wall and the chairs form a circle around it; the

visitor is given the sofa, which is the "seat of honor," and the family

sit in the circle, the eldest nearest the sofa; the visitor expects

to be asked to play the piano, which she does in fine style, and then

the hostess must play after her or commit a breach of courtesy, which

social crime she also commits if she neglects to ask the guest to play;

visitors always stay half a day, and before leaving she is treated

to a dish of fine dulce, a sweet dessert, cigarettes and wine; then

mantillas are put on, blessings, good wishes, kisses and embraces

are exchanged, each says "My house is yours; I am your servant," and

depart. All the rules of decorum have been obeyed.

When men are introduced they clasp hands, not the way Americans do,

but with thumbs interlocked, and embrace with the left arm; then the

left hands are clasped and they embrace with the right arm, patting the

back in a hearty manner; the more intimate they become the closer the

embrace, and it is not unusual to see men kiss; these embraces are not

saved for private or home use, but are as frequent on the streets as

hat tipping is here; the hand clasping is both agreeable and hearty.

They clasp hands every time they part, if it be only for an hour's

duration, and again when they meet, and when careless Americans forget

the rule they vote them very rude and ill-bred. Undoubtedly, as a

nation, we are.

On the street a woman is not permitted to recognize a man first. She

must wait until he lifts his shining silk hat; then she raises her

hand until on a level with her face, turns the palm inward, with the

fingers pointing toward the face, then holds the first and fourth

fingers still, and moves the two center ones in a quick motion; the

action is very pretty, and the picture of grace when done by a Mexican

senora, but is inclined to deceive the green American, and lead him to

believe it is a gesture calling him to her side. When two women walk

along together the youngest is always given the inside of the pavement,

or if the younger happens to be married, she gets the outside--they

are quite strict about this; also, if a gentleman is with a mother

and daughters, he must walk with the mother and the girls must walk

before them. A woman who professes Christianity will not wear a hat or

bonnet to church, but gracefully covers her head with a lace mantilla.

No difference how nicely she is clad, she is not considered dressed

in good taste unless powdered and painted, to the height reached only

by chorus girls. Four years ago, the Americans tell me, the Mexican

women promenaded the streets and parks and took drives in ball-dresses,

low neck, sleeveless, and with enormous trains; this has almost been

stopped, although the finest of dresses, vivid in color, and only

suitable for house or reception wear, are yet worn on Sundays.

Everybody wears jewelry, not with good taste, but piled on recklessly.

I have seen men with rings on every finger, always excepting the thumb;

and the cologne used is something wonderful. You can smell it while

they are a square off, and it is discernible when they are out of

sight. A man is not considered fashionable unless he parts his hair in

the middle, from his forehead to the nape of his neck, and dress it _a

la_ pompadour. The handkerchief is always carried folded in a square,

and is used alternately to wipe his dainty little low-cut boots and the

face. Afterward it is refolded and replaced in the pocket.

Visitors are always expected to call first, to see their friends when

in town, as it would be a great breach of decorum for a family to call

on a visitor before he or she came to their house. If two or more

people meet in a room and are not acquainted they must speak, but not

shake hands; they can converse until some one comes, when they will

accept an introduction and embrace, as if they had just that instant

met. When one occupies a bench in the park with a stranger neither

must depart without bidding the other farewell, and very often while

murmuring adieus they clasp hands and lift hats.

Mexicans in talking employ a number of signs, which mean as much to

them and are as plainly understood as English words would be to us.

They speak their sign-language gracefully; indeed, they are a very

graceful people, and yet they never study it or give it a thought. When

they want a waiter in a restaurant, or a man on the streets, they never

call or whistle, as we would do, but simply clap the hands several

times and the wanted party comes. The system is very convenient, and

far more pleasing than the American plan. When wishing to beckon any

one, they throw the hand from them in the same manner as Americans do

if they want any one to move on. To go away, they hold the fingers

together and move them toward the body.

They never say that a man is drunk; it sounds vulgar, and, as they will

"get that way," they merely place the index finger on the temple and

incline the head slightly toward the person meant. They could never

be abrupt enough to say any one was crazy or had no brains, so they

touch the forehead, between the eyebrows, with the first finger. To

speak of money they form a circle of the thumb and forefinger; to ask

you to take a drink or tell the servants to bring one, the thumb is

turned toward the mouth; to ask you to wait a little while, the first

finger is held within a quarter of an inch of the thumb. To hold the

palm upward, and slowly move the hand backward and forward, says as

plain as English "I am going to whip my wife," or "I whip my wife." If

they want you to play a game at cards, they close both fists and hold

them tightly together. Touching the thumb rapidly with the four fingers

closed means you have much or many of anything, like many friends.

Making a scissors sign with the fist and second finger means you are

cutting some one in the back. Whittling one forefinger with the other

means "you got left." When courting on the balcony and the girl smooths

her lip and chin, you are warned to get out; "the old man is coming."

In company, when one is so unfortunate as to sneeze, they are greatly

insulted, and the company is badly wanting in good manners unless, just

as the sneeze is finished, every one ejaculates "Jesu," "Jesucristo."

Six Months in Mexico · 第 32 / 37 章