ordinary penitancers who may be seen doing their office in most of the
churches, Monsignore the Cardinal of Saint Sixtus[117] sat in a corner,
and with a long rod, which he held in his hand, touched the heads of
all the men who went by, and of the women also, but these he regarded
with a smile and a courtesy of manner apportioned to their consequence
and beauty.
On the Wednesday in Holy week I visited the Seven Churches with M.
de Foix[118] before dinner and spent about five hours in making the
round. I know not why some people should profess to be shocked when
they hear this or that prelate accused of vicious practices, when
these practices are well known. This very day, in the churches of
Saint John Lateran and of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, I saw written
in a most prominent place the history of Pope Sylvester II.[119] in
which the worst is recorded of him. The circuit of the city from the
Porta del Popolo to the Porta de S. Paolo, which I made several times,
can be accomplished in three or four hours going at foot pace. That
part which lies beyond the river may easily be traversed in an hour
and a half. Amongst other pleasures which I enjoyed in Rome during
Lent, mention must be made of the sermons. There were many excellent
preachers, for instance the renegade rabbi who preached to the Jews on
Saturday afternoons in the church of the Trinità. Here was always a
congregation of sixty Jews who were bound to be present. This preacher
had been a famous doctor amongst them, and now he attacked their
belief by their own arguments, even out of the mouths of their rabbis
and from the words of the Bible. He had admirable skill and knowledge
of the subject, and of the languages necessary for the elaboration
of the same. There was another who preached before the Pope and
cardinals, named Padre Toledo, a man of extraordinary ability in depth
of learning, in appositeness of expression, and in mustering of his
arguments, and a third who preached at the church of the Jesuits was
distinguished for the beauty of the language he used, the two last
being members of the Jesuit society.
It is wonderful how great is the part occupied by this College in the
Christian economy, and my belief is that never before has there existed
any confraternity which has risen to such eminence, or which may sway
so powerfully the destinies of the world, supposing that it should be
able to prosecute its designs in the future. It occupies well-nigh the
whole of Christendom; it is a nursery of men distinguished in every
department of high affairs, and the institution of our Church which the
heretics of our day have most to fear.
One of the preachers declared that people nowadays use their coaches
as places whence they spy upon their fellows. The habit which the
Romans most affect is that of walking about the streets, but as a rule
they only rouse themselves to issue forth for the sake of sauntering
along from one street to another, without design of going anywhere in
particular, one or two of the streets being especially affected for
this purpose. In sooth, the chief pleasure to be got from this practice
is the sight of the ladies, and especially the courtesans, who exhibit
themselves behind their lattices with such refinement of trickery that
I have often wondered at the address they display in attracting men’s
eyes. Often I have got down from my horse and induced some of these
ladies to admit me, and have wondered how it was they contrived to make
themselves appear so much handsomer than they really were.[120] They
have the art of letting a beholder distinguish them by whatever trait
of theirs is most seemly; they will let you see only the upper part of
the face, or the lower, or the side, veiling and unveiling according to
the particular style of countenance, so that an ugly woman is never to
be seen at a window. Each one takes her position there for the purpose
of saluting and bowing to her acquaintances, who, as they go by, throw
up many a glance. An extra privilege, granted to any gallant who may
have paid one crown or four for passing the night in a house of this
character, is that he is allowed to salute his inamorata in public
the next day. Many ladies of quality also show themselves, but it is
very easy to perceive that these are of totally different carriage and
fashion. This phase of life is best seen from horseback, a usage which
is followed by poor wretches like myself, or by young men riding great
horses, which they manage with much skill. People of quality never go
abroad except in coaches of the most costly sort, and, in order to have
a clear view upwards, the roofs of the coaches are fitted with small
windows. It was to these windows that the preacher aforesaid alluded
when he spoke of the spying which went on in coaches.
On the morning of Holy Thursday the Pope, in pontifical garb,
accompanied by the cardinals, repaired to the second platform of the
great portico of Saint Peter’s bearing a lighted torch in his hand.
Then a canon of Saint Peter’s, who stood on one side of the balcony,
read in a loud voice a bull written in Latin by which men of an
infinite variety of sorts and conditions were excommunicated; amongst
others the Huguenots were specially named, and all those princes who
keep hold on any of the lands of the Church, an article which caused
loud laughter from the Cardinals Medici and Carafa, who stood close to
the Pope. The reading of this bull lasted a good hour; for when the
canon had finished reading an article in Latin, the Cardinal Gonzaga,
who stood on the opposite side--uncovered like the canon--would repeat
the same in Italian. When the reading was done the Pope cast the
lighted torch down amongst the people; and, whether out of jest or not,
Cardinal Gonzaga threw down another, three torches having been kindled.
This having fallen amongst the people caused a vast disturbance below,
every one scrambling to pick up a fragment of the torch, and giving
and taking shrewd blows with fist or cudgel. During the reading of this
sentence the balustrade of the portico in front of the Pope was covered
with a large piece of black taffetas; but, the excommunication having
been pronounced, they folded up this black covering and disclosed one
of a different colour, whereupon the Pope gave his public blessing.
On these days they exhibit the handkerchief of Saint Veronica. This is
a countenance wrought in needlework, of a dark and sombre tint, and
framed after the fashion of a mirror. It is shown with great ceremony
from a high pulpit, five or six paces in width, and the priest who
holds it wears on his hands red gloves, while two or three other
priests assist him in displaying it. No spectacle provokes such great
show of reverence as this, the people all prostrate themselves on the
ground, the greater part of them weeping and uttering cries of pity.
A woman, whom they declared to be possessed, made a great uproar at
the sight of this effigy, and began to screech, and twist her arms,
and throw them about. The priests moved round the pulpit and exhibited
the effigy, now from one side and now from another, and at every
fresh display the people who beheld it cried out aloud. On these same
occasions they show to the people likewise with equal ceremonies a
lance head enclosed in a crystal vessel. This display is made several
times during the day, and the crowd which comes to witness the same is
so vast that, as far as the eye can reach from the pulpit aforesaid
outside the church, there is nought to be seen but an endless crowd of
men and women. Here is the true papal court; the pomp of Rome and its
chief grandeur lies in the outward show of religion: and it is a fine
sight in these days, this unbounded ardour of the people for their
faith.
In the city a hundred or more confraternities are to be found, and
almost every gentleman is a member of some one of these: some of them
are open to strangers, and our kings of France belong to that of the
Gonfalon. Each particular society is wont to exercise, and especially
during Lent, certain functions of religious fellowship, and on this
special day they walk about in companies clad in linen gowns, each
company wearing its particular colour, white, red, blue, green, or
black, almost all with their faces covered. The most striking sight
I ever saw here or elsewhere was the incredible number of people
spread abroad through the city this day, busy with their devotions,
and especially those belonging to the aforesaid confraternities. For,
in addition to the great crowds seen during the day round about Saint
Peter’s, the whole city, as night approached, seemed to be on fire
on account of the procession of these confraternities towards Saint
Peter’s, each one bearing a lighted candle--almost always of white
wax--in his hand. I am sure that at least twelve thousand torches
must have gone by the place where I stood; for, from eight o’clock
till midnight, the street was filled with the procession, marshalled
and regulated in such excellent order that, though there were many
different companies coming from different places, the ranks were never
broken or the progress stayed. Each confraternity had a fine choir of
musicians, who sang as they marched. In the midst of the ranks went
a file of penitancers to the number of five hundred, who scourged
themselves with cords, and left their backs all raw and bloody. This is
a riddle which still baffles me, but there is no denying that they were
bruised and wounded in cruel fashion, and that this self-torture and
flagellation went on without ceasing. Judging by the aspect of their
faces, the assurance of their gait, and the steadfastness audible in
their discourse and visible in their countenances (for I heard several
of them speak, and many uncovered themselves in passing through the
street), it would never have suggested itself to me that they were
engaged in a painful and irksome task. Amongst them were youths of
twelve or thirteen years of age, and right in front of me was one, very
young and fair in seeming, over whose wounds a young woman lamented
sore; but the boy, turning towards us, said with a laugh, “Enough of
that; what I do I do for your sins and not for my own.”[121] Not only
was there absent all appearance of distress or violence, they even went
about their flagellation with an appearance of pleasure, or at least
of nonchalance, so marked that they might have been chattering about
other matters, laughing, bawling about the street, running and leaping
when there was so great a crowd that the procession fell somewhat
into confusion. Along with them went certain men carrying wine, which
was offered to them now and again, and some of them took a mouthful
thereof, and sometimes sweetmeats were given. The winecarriers often
took wine in their mouths and then blew it out and moistened therewith
the lashes of the scourges, which were of cord, and were wont to become
coagulated with the blood drawn to such an extent that it was necessary
to moisten them in order to separate the thongs. They also blew the
wine over the wounds of some of the victims. The appearance of their
shoes and breeches suggested that they were people of mean condition,
and that the majority of them had sold themselves to this service.
Moreover, I was told that they were wont to grease their shoulders with
a certain preparation, but the wounds I saw were so natural, and the
scourging was so lengthy, that assuredly no medicament could benumb
them to pain. And with regard to those who may have hired them, what
profit would they get were this exhibition nought but trickery? Certain
other peculiarities of this function may be noticed. When the people
in procession arrive at Saint Peter’s the only function they attend is
the exhibition of _il Viso Santo_, and as soon as one company has seen
it, it passes on and makes room for another. On this day great liberty
is granted to all womankind; for, through the night, the streets are
filled with ladies nearly all going on foot. Nevertheless the city has
the air of having greatly mended its manners, especially in respect to
the relaxation aforesaid, all amorous glances and manifestations being
suppressed.
[Illustration: THE PANTHEON
_Reproduced from Piranesi’s Views of Rome_
_To face p. 156_, vol. ii.
]
The church of Santa Rotonda makes the fairest show at this season on
account of its illumination. Amongst other devices a vast number of
lamps, hung from the top to the bottom of the church, are kept in
constant motion. On Easter eve I saw at Saint John Lateran the heads
of Saint Paul and Saint Peter, which have still some flesh upon them,
and are coloured and bearded as in life.[122] The face of Saint Peter
is fair, somewhat elongated, with a ruddy, almost sanguine tint on
the cheeks, and a forked grey beard, the head being covered with a
papal mitre. That of Saint Paul is dark, broad, and fatter; the head
altogether being larger and the beard thick and grey. They are kept
high up in a place devised for them, and the exhibition is made in this
wise. The people are summoned by the ringing of bells, then a curtain,
stretched before the heads, is let down, and they may be seen side by
side. They are left visible long enough to let the spectators say an
_Ave Maria_, and then the curtain is drawn up again. Afterwards they
are displayed afresh in the same way, and then for a third time. This
exhibition takes place three or four times during the day. The place
where they are kept is about the height of a pike from the ground, and
a heavy iron grating is in front of them, through which the spectator
must peer in order to see them, several candles being lighted outside
the grating, but it is difficult to discern clearly the particular
features. I saw them three or four times, and found the skin shiny and
something like the masks we use.
On the Wednesday after Easter M. Maldonat,[123] who was then at Rome,
inquired of me what might be my opinion of the ways and habits of
the city, especially with respect to religion. It happened that our
views agreed exactly, to wit, that the common people were beyond
comparison more devout in France than in Rome, while the contrary might
be affirmed of the richer classes, and especially of those about the
court. He told me that whenever he heard men maintain that France was
altogether given over to heresy--and especially when the disputants
were Spaniards, of whom there were great number in his society--he
always answered that more truly religious men might be found in Paris
alone than in the whole of Spain.
In bringing boats up the Tiber they tow them with three or four pairs
of buffaloes. I know not how others find the air of Rome, but I myself
found it very pleasant and healthy. The Sieur de Vielart told me
that since he had been there he had lost all tendency to headache, an
observation which goes to confirm that held by the Romans themselves:
that the air is bad for the feet, but good for the head. Nothing is
so adverse to my own health as listlessness and sloth, and in Rome
I was never without occupation, which, though it may not have been
always so pleasant as I could have wished, yet served to keep me from
tedium. For instance, I visited and inspected the antiquities and the
vineyards, which here are gardens and pleasure places of extraordinary
beauty. There I learned how susceptible to the touch of art were these
rough, rocky, and unlevel spots of ground, for the artificers here have
contrived to win from them a graceful effect, impossible to imitate in
our level country, and to turn these irregularities to advantage with
the utmost skill. Amongst the most beautiful of these gardens are those
of the Cardinals d’Este at Monte Cavallo, and Farnese at the Palatine;
of Cardinals Orsini, Sforza, and Medici; of Papa Giulio and of Madama;
those of the Farnese and of Cardinal Riario in Trastevere, and of
Cesio outside the Porta del Popolo.[124] All these beautiful spots are
free and open to any one who may desire to enter therein, or even to
pass the night there with some chosen companion whenever the owners
chance to be away, and they are scarcely ever in residence. Then there
are always sermons to be listened to at all seasons, or disputes in
theology; or again diversion may be found with some courtesan or other,
but in this case I found one disadvantage, to wit, that these ladies
charge as extortionately for the privilege of simple conversation
(which was what I sought, desiring to hear them talk, and to take part
in their play of wit) as for the supreme favour, and are just as
niggard thereof. All these recreations kept me free effectually from
melancholy, which is the death of me, and of irritability, with which
I was troubled neither without doors nor within. Thus I found Rome a
very pleasant place of sojourn, and I might go on to show that, if I
had penetrated more deeply into the inner life of the place, I might
have been still more pleased; for I must admit that, though I used
all possible care and ingenuity, I only gathered acquaintance with
the public aspect of the city, the same that she shows to the meanest
stranger.
On Low Sunday I witnessed the ceremony of the bestowal of alms on
certain young maidens. On this day the Pope had, in addition to his
ordinary equipage, twenty-five horses led before him, decked and
covered with cloth of gold, and most richly caparisoned, and ten or
twelve mules covered with crimson velvet, all these being led by his
lackeys on foot. Then came the Pope’s litter, also covered with crimson
velvet. The Pope himself rode on his mule, and before him went four
men on horseback who carried each one a cardinal’s hat, set on the top
of a staff which was covered with red velvet and gilt about the handle
and the top. The cardinals who followed rode also on mules and wore
their pontifical garb, the skirts of their robes being fastened by
pins to the mules’ bridles. The maidens numbered a hundred and seven,
each one being accompanied by an elderly kinswoman, and when the mass
was finished they left the church and marched in a long procession.
Having re-entered the church of La Minerva--where this function takes
place--they passed one by one through the choir and kissed the feet
of the Pope; who, after blessing them, gave them each from his own
hand a purse of white damask containing a note on his bankers. It was
understood that all these girls have found husbands, wherefore they
come to ask for a dowry, which is fixed at a sum of thirty-five crowns
apiece, in addition to the white robe costing five crowns, which they
wear at their wedding. Their faces were covered with linen veils, with
no opening save holes to look through.[125]
I was speaking lately of the advantages of Rome, and will now add, in
reference to this matter, that I find it, of all towns in the world,
the one most filled with the corporate idea, in which difference of
nationality counts least; for, by its very nature, it is a patchwork
of strangers, each one being as much at home as in his own country.
The authority of its ruler lies over the whole of Christianity.[126]
By his own will he, as the supreme arbiter of right and wrong, can
compel the obedience of strangers in their own lands, just the same
as if they were denizens of Rome. Considerations of birth have no
weight in the promotion of men to high office in his court. The freedom
given under the government of Venice, and the conveniences of traffic,
attract thither vast numbers of foreigners, but they are nevertheless
like men in a stranger city; while here foreigners will be found in
special offices carrying emolument and responsibility, for Rome is
the home of all those connected with the Church. As many or perhaps
more strangers may be seen in Venice (where the multitude of these far
exceeds anything of the sort in France or Germany), but not nearly so
many resident or domiciled foreigners. The common people are no longer
affronted by the sight of a man dressed in French, or Spanish, or
German fashion, and nearly every beggar who begged alms of me spoke my
own tongue.
However, I sought in every way and used all my five natural senses
to win for myself the title of Roman citizen, if only for the ancient
renown and religious association clinging to the position attached
to this citizenship. I found the task a difficult one, nevertheless
I accomplished it without having availed myself of any man’s favour,
or indeed letting the matter come to the knowledge of any Frenchman.
I enlisted the Pope’s interest, which was brought to bear by Filippo
Murotti, the major-domo, who had always been extraordinarily kind to
me, and had taken special trouble in this particular affair.[127]
Certain letters, bearing the date _3^o Id. Martii 1581_, and relating
to the business, were sent off and reached me on April 5th. They were
in full official style, in the same form and friendly expression as
those sent to the Seigneur Giacomo Buoncompagno, Duke of Sora, the
Pope’s son. This title is now altogether a vain one, nevertheless I
felt much pleasure from the possession of the same.
On April 3rd I left Rome early in the morning by the Porta San Lorenzo,
_Tiburtina_. The road I took was fairly level, and ran through a
country which was for the most part fertile cornland and sparsely
populated, like all the approaches to Rome. I crossed the Teverone,
anciently the Anio, first at the bridge of Mammolo, and second by that
of Lucan, the old name of this bridge being still retained. On this
bridge are divers ancient inscriptions, and the chief of these is still
easily legible; moreover, two or three Roman tombs are yet standing
along this road. Few other antiquities are to be seen, and on the _Via
Tiburtina_ itself only a very little of the ancient pavement in great
blocks. After a journey of fifteen miles, I arrived in time for dinner
at Tivoli, the ancient Tiburtum.
[Illustration: TIVOLI
_From Civitates Orbis Terrarum_
_To face p. 166_, vol. ii.
]
This town lies at the foot of a range of mountains, the houses being
built along the somewhat steep ascent of the lower slopes. On this
account the site and the prospect therefrom are magnificent, forasmuch
as the view extends over a boundless plain, and includes the great city
of Rome. It faces the sea, the mountains stand in the rear, the stream
of the Teverone flows through it and, close by, takes a marvellous
leap, descending from the mountains and disappearing in a chasm of the
rocks some five or six hundred paces below. Afterwards it reaches the
plain, where it follows a course greatly varied, and joins the Tiber a
little above the city. In Tivoli is to be seen the famous palace and
garden of the cardinal of Ferrara, a most exquisite piece of work, but
unfinished in several parts and likely to remain so, as the cardinal
now owning it has stopped all operations.[128] I looked at everything
minutely, and I would attempt to set down here some representation
thereof, if so many books and illustrations had not been already
published. This outburst of a countless number of jets of water,
turned on or off by a single appliance manipulated at some distant
point, I had seen elsewhere during my travels, notably at Florence and
Augsburg, as I have already recorded. Here real music is produced from
a sort of natural organ, which always plays the same tune, by the means
of water which falls with great force into a round vaulted recess where
it disturbs the air and forces it to seek an exit, and at the same time
supplies the wind necessary to make the organ pipes sound. Another
stream of water turns a wheel fitted with teeth, which are set so as to
strike in a certain order the keyboard of the organ, and the sound of
trumpets is also counterfeited by the same agency.
[Illustration: THE VILLA D’ESTE AT TIVOLI
_To face p. 166_, vol. ii.
]