LAKE TAHOE IN WINTER[1]
BY DR. J.E. CHURCH, JR., OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NEVADA
[Footnote 1: By courtesy of _Sunset_ magazine.]
Lake Tahoe is an ideal winter resort for the red-blooded. For the
Viking and the near Viking; for the man and the woman who, for the
very exhilaration of it, seek the bracing air and the snow-clad
forests, Lake Tahoe is as charming in winter as in summer, and far
grander. There is the same water--in morning placid, in afternoon
foam-flecked, on days of storm tempestuous. The Lake never freezes;
not even a film of ice fringes its edge. Sunny skies and warm
noons and the Lake's own restlessness prevent. Emerald Bay alone is
sometimes closed with ice, but more often it is as open as the outer
Lake. Even the pebbles glisten on the beach as far back as the wash of
the waves extends.
But beyond the reach of the waves a deep mantle of white clads the
forests and caps the distant peaks. The refuse of the forests, the
dusty roads, and the inequalities of the ground are all buried deep.
A smooth, gently undulating surface of dazzling white has taken their
place.
The forest trees are laden with snow--each frond bears its pyramid and
each needle its plume of white. The fresh green of the foliage and the
ruddy brown of the bark are accentuated rather than subdued by their
white setting. But as the eye travels the long vista of ascending and
retreating forest, the green and the brown of the near-by trees fade
gradually away until the forest becomes a fluffy mantle of white
upon the distant mountain side. Above and beyond the forest's utmost
reaches rise the mountain crags and peaks, every angle rounded into
gentle contours beneath its burden of snow.
[Illustration: The Fergusson Metrograph on the summit of Mt. Rose,
wrecked by snow "feathers," some of which were six feet long.]
[Illustration: Refuge Hut and Headquarters for Snow Studies on
Mt. Rose, 9000 Feet]
[Illustration: Skiing from Tallac to Fallen Leaf Lodge]
[Illustration: Snow Surveyor on the Mountains Above Glen Alpine
in Winter]
Along the margin of the Lake appear the habitations and works of
men deeply buried and snow-hooded until they recall the scenes in
Whittier's _Snow Bound_.
The lover of the Lake and its bird life will miss the gulls but will
find compensation in the presence of the wild fowl--the ducks and the
geese--that have returned to their winter haunts.
Lake Tahoe is remarkably adapted as a winter resort for three prime
reasons: first, it is easily accessible; second, no place in
the Sierra Nevada, excepting not even Yosemite, offers so many
attractions; third, it is the natural and easy gateway in winter to
the remote fastnesses of the northern Sierra.
Among the attractions preeminently associated with Lake Tahoe in
winter are boating and cruising, snow-shoeing and exploring, camping
for those whose souls are of sterner stuff, hunting, mountain
climbing, photography, and the enjoyment of winter landscape. Fishing
during the winter months is prohibited by law.
If one asks where to go, a bewildering group of trips and pleasures
appears. But there come forth speedily from out the number a few of
unsurpassed allurement. These are a _ski_ trip from Tallac to
Fallen Leaf Lake to see the breakers and the spray driven by a rising
gale against the rock-bound shore, and, when the lake has grown
quieter, a boat ride to Fallen Leaf Lodge beneath the frowning
parapets of Mount Tallac. Next a _ski_ trip up the Glen to the
buried hostelry at Glen Alpine, where one enters by way of a dormer
window but is received to a cheerful fire and with royal hospitality.
Then under the skillful guidance of the keeper, a day's climb up the
southern face of Mount Tallac for an unrivalled panoramic view from
its summit and a speedy but safe glissade back to the hostelry far,
far below.
And if the legs be not too stiff from the glissade, a climb over
the southern wall of the Glen to Desolation Valley and Pyramid Peak,
whence can be seen the long gorge of the Rubicon. The thousand lakes
that dot this region present no barrier to one's progress, for they
are frozen over and lie buried deep beneath the snow that falls here
in an abundance hardly exceeded elsewhere in the Tahoe region.
A close rival of these is the climb from Rubicon Park up the stately
range in its rear to visit the mountain hemlock, the graceful queen
of the high mountain, and to gaze across the chasm at the twin crags
beyond.
And peer of them all, though requiring but little exertion, is a trip
to Brockway to enjoy the unrivalled view of the "Land's End" of the
Lake and catch the colors of the pansies that are still in bloom in a
niche of the old sea wall. If one possess the artist's mood, he will
add thereto a boat ride round State Line Point in the lazy swell of
the evening sea beneath the silent pine-clad cliffs, while the moon,
as beautiful as any summer moon, rides overhead. Only the carpet of
snow and the film of ice that gathers from the spray upon the boat
keeps one alive to the reality that the season is winter.
Finally a rowing trip along the western shore of the Lake with stops
at pleasure _en route_. One can have weather to suit his taste,
for the waters on this shore are safe in storm, and the barometer and
the sky will give full warning long before the weather attains the
danger point. The man who loves the breath of the storm and the glow
of excitement will loose his boat from Tallac when the clouds swing
down the canyon and speed forth borne, as it were, on the wings of the
waves toward the distant foot of the Lake--past the black water wall
where the waves of Emerald Bay sweep into Tahoe, through the frothy
waters where the wind shifts and whips around Rubicon Point, over the
white caps of Meek's Bay until by skillful maneuvering the jutting
cape is weathered and quieter water is found in McKinney Bay. Full
time there is, with the wind astern, to reach the river's mouth at
Tahoe City, but the voyager who loves the woodland will tarry for
a night in the dense fir forest of Blackwood, while his boat rides
safely moored to the limb of a prostrate tree.
Regarding the eastern side of the Lake, the bald shore and jutting
headlands, the fewness of the landing places, and the sweep of the
waves make cruising in these waters a matter of supreme skill and
farsightedness. Let the Viking learn with broad-beamed boat the
mastery of the western shore before he turns his boat's prow to the
east.
For the man of milder tastes the motorboat will suffice or the mail
steamer, which plies the waters of Lake Tahoe twice a week.
In tobogganing, the hills and open meadows at Tahoe City and at
Glenbrook will furnish royal sport for the devotee. Skating and
ice-yachting must be sought in regions where the snow is less deep and
the cold more intense.
_Skiing_ is the chief method of locomotion in winter at the Lake
and the novice soon becomes expert in the milder forms of the sport.
_Ski_ trails thread the forests at Tahoe City and radiate from
every resort.
The open inns at Tahoe City and Glenbrook, and The Grove near Tallac
and the resorts on Fallen Leaf Lake insure the traveler's comfort,
while the hospitality of the caretakers at all of the resorts is
proverbial. The question of when and how to go is naturally a leading
one. During the months of November to April, two sledging services are
furnished each thrice a week--one from Carson City to Glenbrook, the
other from Truckee to Tahoe City. (The narrow gauge railway has also
established a semi-weekly winter schedule.) The mail boat connects
with the incoming sledges and train on Tuesday and Saturday. The
route from Carson City, which crosses the heights of the Carson Range,
affords a superb view of the Lake at sunset. The route from Truckee
traverses the wooded canyon of the Truckee River, when scenically at
its best.
The traveler who approaches the Lake by way of Glenbrook and leaves
by way of the canyon of the Truckee will have an experience in winter
travel both unique and replete with beautiful landscapes.
The journey from Truckee to the Lake can also be made on _ski_
in one short day. It is an exhilarating trip, if one travels light.
If one desires to tarry _en route_, he may carry his blankets and
food on his back or haul them on a toboggan, and spend the night at
the half-way station, known as Uncle Billy's.
The best time to visit the Lake is after the heaviest of the winter
snows have fallen. The period of steady and heavy precipitation
occurs in January. After this month is past, there are long periods
of settled weather broken only occasionally by storms, which add to
rather than detract from one's pleasure.
The special equipment requisite for winter trips to Tahoe is slight.
The list includes goggles (preferably amber), German socks and
rubbers, woolen shirt, sweater, short heavy coat, and mittens. For
mountain climbing a pair of Canadian snowshoes should be added to the
equipment; for traveling on the level, a pair of _ski_ can be
rented at Truckee or the Lake. If one desires to camp instead of
stopping at the resorts around the Lake, a tent and waterproof
sleeping bag should be procured.
The cost of transportation in winter is scarcely more than in summer.
The sledge trip from either Truckee or Carson City to the Lake is
$2.50, an amount only $1.00 in excess of the regular fare by rail.
Board will cost no more than in summer.
TRUCKEE
Closely associated with Lake Tahoe as a center for winter sports is
Truckee, the natural point of departure for the Lake. Here a winter
carnival is held annually for the entertainment of outsiders. Among
the chief sports are _ski-racing_ and jumping and tobogganing.
The toboggan course is two thousand feet long and has a fall of
one-hundred fifty feet. A device is employed for drawing the toboggans
back to the starting point. The hotel facilities are ample. Toboggans
and _ski_ can be rented for use here or at the Lake. Clothing and
other winter outfits can be procured. Canadian snow-shoes, however,
must be obtained in San Francisco.