A short time after this signal victory of Macy's, certain large

manufacturers of patented articles, who for a time had sustained in the

lower courts their claim to a fixed retail price standard, sought

definitely to control Macy retail prices upon their products. Macy's,

however, defied them, and the Victor Talking Machine Company, one of the

leading adherents of price maintenance, brought an action in the United

States courts to compel Macy's adherence to the rules for resale at a

certain price. Again there was a royal battle and again Macy's triumphed

signally, for on final appeal, the United States Supreme Court again

decided in favor of the store in Herald Square, on every one of its

contentions. Macy's then retaliated and brought suit against the Victor

Company, under the Sherman Law. In a bitterly contested action, which

culminated in one of the longest trials before a jury on

record--consuming more than ten weeks--Macy's recovered a judgment of

$150,000, and a counsel fee of $35,000; after which no paths apparently

were left open to the manufacturers who sought to maintain the retail

prices that suited them best. Court decisions seemingly blocked all

possible pathways.

One path did remain, however--legislation. Effort was made to pass a

measure down at Washington to permit and sustain retail price

maintenance, which in reality meant the emasculation of the Supreme

Court's decisions. When that measure came to a hearing before the

Interstate Commerce Committee of the House one of the Macy partners,

accompanied by Mr. Wise, the store's counsel, and Mr. E. A. Filene, the

well-known Boston merchant, came before it in opposition. Up almost to

that hour, Macy's had gone it alone. Now the attention of the country

was focussed upon its fight and the National Retail Dry Goods

Association came in with both its sympathy and its active

co-operation--hence the appearance of Mr. Filene, who made a most

excellent argument in support of the Macy contention.

It was shown definitely to the members of this House committee that

many, if not all, branded and patented articles took a retail profit of

from fifty to seventy-five per cent. The member of the Macy firm took a

watch nationally advertised at $2.50 and duplicated it with a watch

which his store sold at sixty-five cents, going so far as to take the

two watches apart so as to show conclusively that the one was quite as

good as the other. Certain other commodities went under similarly

critical analyses. When the hearing was completed, the committee laughed

the bill out of court. Since then the question of price maintenance by

the original producer has been permitted to drop. Macy's had won its

hard-fought fight; won it cleanly and honestly. By performance it had

made good its statements that it proposed wherever it was humanly

possible to undersell its competitors. That was no idle phrase.

It is indeed one thing to make a statement--whether in print or by word

of mouth--and another and ofttimes a far more difficult thing to make

good that statement by performance. No one knows this better than

Macy's. Having set down such a definite and distinct statement it must

be prepared to make good. It must be so covered and protected at every

possible point that if challenged it can give a good account of itself.

In fact, challenges come in every day--they have been coming in every

day for a good many years now--and the house continues to make good its

statement willingly--even joyfully. Here it is, then, that the

comparison department functions; here it is that the original

fundamental policy of Rowland H. Macy--to buy and sell only for

cash--strictly adhered to during the sixty-four years' life of the

business--makes it possible for the house to make good.

How, then, is it done?

The answer is easy.

Suppose, if you will, that Smith, Brown & Jones are having a special

sale of Mother Hubbard wrappers. There are advertised as their regular

$4.97 stock, marked down (at a heartbreaking sacrifice) to $3.79.

Manifestly, it is up to R. H. Macy & Company to sell the same quality of

Mother Hubbard for less than $3.79, if they are to live up to their

oft-stated policy. It is quite as patent that Macy's must know just

what kind of wrappers Smith, Brown & Jones are selling, if it is to

compete on an exact basis. Nothing simpler. One of the Macy staff of

shoppers is hurried forthwith to the scene of the bargain and,

purchasing one of the garments, brings it back post-haste to the Macy

comparison department. Furthermore, it is in this department by ten

o'clock of the morning of the sale. It is then matched as closely as

possible with a Mother Hubbard from the Macy stock, and the two garments

compared, point by point. If, after careful examination, it is found

that Macy's is charging more, or even the same price, for equal quality,

then its prices are immediately marked down to a figure at least six per

cent. lower than that advertised by the other store. And this, mind you,

is not an exceptional performance but a daily procedure in the carrying

out of which an exceptionally alert woman manager and twenty expert

shoppers are constantly kept busy.

If you make inquiry regarding the ins and outs of this remarkable policy

you will find that it is far broader than you may have imagined. Here,

again, is proof of the pudding. It is a typical letter, received from a

customer and copied verbatim, with only the name left out:

November 12, 1920.

R. H. Macy & Co.,

New York City.

Dear Sirs:

I purchased a banjo clock at $13.89 from you on Tuesday. Yesterday

I saw the same clock, with same works, etc., identical in every

way, at ----'s, for $11.25. Now, inasmuch as you claim that you

sell goods at the very lowest figure, I think that is too much

difference in price to overlook. I trust that I shall receive your

check for the difference in the amount, otherwise please call for

the clock at once. I purchased clock in the basement.

Yours very truly,

----------------

This letter was received by the store and acknowledged that very day. It

then was turned over to the comparison department, from which a shopper

was despatched to the store at which the customer claimed to have seen

the clock for less money. The shopper reported that the claim was

correct, and a check was immediately forwarded to the customer for the

difference between the price which she paid for the clock and six per

cent. less than the other store's price for it. Nor did the matter end

there. All this kind of clocks in the basement were at once repriced to

conform to the adjustment made with the customer.

There are, too, the occasional tests made by customers who, while they

are not dissatisfied, cannot believe that the low-price policy can be

consistently carried out. As an example, this half-jocular letter:

November 15, 1920.

R. H. Macy & Company,

Broadway & 34th Street,

New York.

Gentlemen:

Lest you regard this as a complaint from an ordinary .22 calibre

chronic kicker let me say in the first place that I merely want to

see to what extent you will make good on your brazen claim to sell

goods at a lower price than other stores. Now then:

On November 10th, I purchased a toy "cash register" bank in your

toy department for $1.98. (I want the kid to learn frugality better

than I did.) On November 14th my wife saw the same toy at Hahne's

in Newark, N. J., for exactly the same price. So far, so good. It

was worth it. But, Mr. Macy, you said your prices were _less_.

Besides, I have an account at Hahne's. By the time I would have

needed to pay for that bank there would have been enough in it to

settle the bill.

Here is your chance, but I'm from Missouri.

Yours,

------------

The answer to this complaint was prompt and to the point. It reads:

R. H. MACY & CO.

HERALD SQUARE, NEW YORK

December 4, 1920.

Mr. ------

------

------

Dear Sir:

We acknowledge your letter of November 24th, with regard to a

toy-bank, which you purchased from us for $1.98. We have

investigated your complaint and find, as you state, Hahne & Co. in

Newark are selling this article at the same price at which you

purchased it from us. Our price on these banks is now $1.89, in

keeping with our claim that we sell dependable merchandise for

"lowest-in-the-city" prices.

We appreciate your courtesy in calling this matter to our attention

and also for the opportunity to demonstrate the upholding of our

policy. A refund of nine cents in stamps is enclosed.

Yours very truly,

(Signed) R. H. MACY & CO.

------ Mgr.

Bureau of Mail Order and Adjustment.

Of course this complaint was trivial, the sum involved small, and Macy's

must quickly have realized that the man who wrote the letter was not

particularly serious. Yet that made no difference. The matter was

adjusted; even though the process of adjustment involved a shopper's

trip to Newark and considerable clerical work--in all several times the

cost of the tiny bank. Yet the matter _was_ adjusted and all the

toy-banks of that kind were at once reduced in price, to say nothing of

a satisfied patron made for the store.

There is another sort of complaint that, at times, keeps the comparison

department pretty busy. Women frequently will stop at a counter in the

store, examine an article and then exclaim:

"Hm-m--$6.74 for that! Why, I saw the same thing today at Jinx, Bobb &

Company's for $5.90."

A mere passing comment which, in the old days of merchandising, might

easily have been ignored. In Macy's it is not ignored. The clerk who

hears this remark makes a note of it and sends through to the comparison

department what is technically known as a customer's complaint.

Immediate investigation is made, the prices checked up, and, if the

casual shopper is right, Macy's prices are at once readjusted to the six

per cent. below the competitor's charges. It has been found, however,

that nearly ninety per cent. of this sort of complaints are incorrect.

Two articles, in separate stores, may look so nearly alike that a casual

inspection will not reveal any difference, and, therefore, competing

goods must often be subjected to expert examination and even to

analysis. A magnifying glass is used to count the threads in a fabric;

woolens are boiled in chemical solutions to determine whether there is

any adulteration; and cotton goods, such as sheets and pillow cases, are

weighed, washed and weighed again to ascertain to what extent they are

loaded. For Macy's is just to itself, as well as to the public.

As has been indicated already, there are some things that the store as a

matter of policy does not sell--pianos, chief of all. But that does not

mean that there is, in the minds of its managers, the slightest excuse

for its shelves not holding the things that it ought to sell. A large

difference, this, and one which is constantly being checked by members

of the shopping staff of the comparison department--going through its

floors and inquiring in the various departments for goods for which

there is little ordinary demand, and so a considerable likelihood of

their not being found in stock. If an article requested is not found in

stock, the shopper immediately buys something else--so as to get the

number of the salesclerk. Then a report is made to the department buyer

in order that he may see whether or not the clerk has followed up the

inquiry.

Incidentally, the shopper's report upon this entire transaction takes

into account all the details regarding the manner in which the sales are

handled and even notes the speed with which the parcel is wrapped and

the change returned. It is not a spying system, but part of the store's

honest effort to keep its efficiency at the highest notch. Naturally the

shoppers of its comparison department are not known as such to its

salesforce--for this reason the personnel of the corps must be under

constant change--and it is equally evident that their anonymity is

carefully preserved in their dealings with other stores. They are all

well-bred young women, ranging in type from the flapper to the matron,

and each is so carefully trained to act her part that it is quite

impossible to distinguish them from the store's bona fide shoppers.

Another of their duties is to report upon the speed of Macy deliveries.

Once a month, at a certain prearranged time of day, a similar purchase

is made at each of the largest stores in the city, including Macy's.

These are all ordered sent to the same address and a record is made of

the length of time it takes each to arrive. In the report that is

finally made of the test details are included showing the manner in

which all the packages are wrapped in order that Macy service may at all

times be held up at least to the standard of its competitors.

In the highly scientific machine of modern business, the test is as

valuable as in other machines. I have stood in a great sugar refinery

and watched the workmen from time to time draw off tiny phials of the

sweetish fluid in order that they might show under laboratory

examination that the machine was functioning at its highest point. And

so are the tiny phials of Macy service drawn from the machine. If they

show that, even in the slightest degree, the great machine of retail

merchandising is functioning below its highest efficiency, it becomes

the immediate business of the management to correct the loss.

"I tell my people not to come to me with reports that everything is

going well," says its general manager, "I only want to know when things

begin to slip. Then it is my job to set them straight once again."

One thing more, before we are quite done with this sketch of the

organization of a great merchandising institution. It is, in this case,

a most important thing:

With the credit system in force in nearly, if not quite, every other

large store in the New York metropolitan district, Macy's for years has

had to encounter a considerable sentiment against its policy of doing a

cash business only. For there always has been a desirable class of trade

represented by customers who, for one reason or another, find it most

inconvenient to pay their bills monthly--people whose means and credit

are unimpeachable. At one time it looked as if R. H. Macy & Company

would either have to forego their custom or else make exceptions to

their long established rule. The former they could do; the latter they

would not. But--

Out of this very need for furnishing customers with the convenience of

some sort of a charge account grew a great Macy specialty--the

depositors' account department which, while making no concessions to the

store's rock-ribbed principle of selling for cash, solved a very great

problem in its touch with its public. It turned the costly credit

privilege into an asset both for the customer and for the store. The

very thought was revolutionary! What, ask a customer to pay in advance;

to have money on deposit with R. H. Macy & Company, private bankers, to

pay for normal purchases for a whole thirty days to come! It couldn't be

done. New York would never, never stand for it. Every one outside of the

store was sure that it never could be done. And a good many inside, as

well. Yet the thing deemed impossible has come to pass. The idea was

sound. The plan today is successful, even beyond the dreams of its

promoters. With fifteen thousand depositors, its total deposits--money

placed into the store to be drawn against solely for merchandise

purchases--have reached as high as $2,750,000 at a single time.

Interest at four per cent. annually is paid upon these deposits, so that

the customer's money does not lie idle in the Macy till. Moreover, the

money may be withdrawn at any time, and without previous notice being

given. Further than this, it has been a custom--not, however, to be

considered invariable--to pay a bonus of two per cent. on net sales

charged to the depositors' account department throughout the year.

Compare the thrill of receiving a bonus check from your

department-store, instead of a bill for dead horses!

It has been estimated that in some of New York's most representative and

most elegant department-stores something like eighty-five per cent. of

all retail transactions are upon the credit accounts. Assuming even that

all of these accounts are promptly collectible--or collectible at

all--the expense of the machinery of their collection becomes no small

item in store management cost. This item Macy's saves--entirely and

completely. And so, to no small extent, the store justifies itself in

that other rigid rule--the pricing of its merchandise at a uniform

rating of six per cent. less than that of its competitors. Upon this

thought, alone, a whole book might be written.

III. Buying to Sell

Up the broad valley of the Euphrates a caravan comes toiling upon its

way. It is fearfully hot; frightfully dusty. For it has come to

mid-September; the rains are long weeks gone; and with the crops

harvested, even the sails of the great mills that pump the irrigation

canals full are stilled. The time of great heat and of little work. But

still the caravan--the long, attenuated file of horses and camels must

press on.

Ahead is Bagdad, that self-same ancient Bagdad which three thousand

years ago was the commercial capital of the world. Through the heat

waves and the blinding dust, the trained eyes of the Moslem can see the

sun touching the gilded minarets and towers of her great mosques. Bagdad

ahead. And at Bagdad the market-places which have stood unchanged for

tens of centuries. Save that in recent years there have come to them

these Americans--these shrewd agents of a little known folk, these

rug-buyers of a far-away land of which they spin such fascinating tales.

Tales far too fascinating ever to be believable. Yet Allah keeps his own

accounting.

In the foyer of a lovely new home in newest New York a Persian rug is

being spread for the first time. Its owner dilates with pride upon his

purchase; shows those roundabout him the symbolism of its rarely

delicate design; even to the tiny fault purposely woven into the

creation by its maker to show in his humble fashion that only Allah may

be faultless.

A great French city; this Lyons, by the bank of the lovely Rhone. For

two centuries or even more its tireless looms have spun the rarest silk

fabrics of the world. Nearby there is a little French village. Were I to

put its name upon these pages, it would mean nothing to you. Yet out

from it there comes a lace, so rare, so delicate, that one well may

marvel at the human patience and the human ingenuity that conceived it.

The silk comes to America, straight to the chief city of the Americas;

so do the laces; and so in a short time will come once again the

wondrous cotton weaves of Lille and of Cambrai--and will come as a

tragic reminder of the five fearful years that were.

In the hot depths of a South African mine, negroes, stripped to their

very waists, are toiling to bring forth the rarest precious stones that

the world has ever known. In the fearfully cold blasts of the far North,

facing monotonous glaring miles of lonely ice and snow, trappers are

after the seal and the mink. Why? In order that milady, of New York, may

sweep into her red-lined box at the Opera, a queen in dress, as well as

in looks and in poise.

From the mine and from the ice-floes to her neck and back a mighty

process has been undergone. The great multiplex machine of

merchandising has accomplished the process. A thousand other ones as

well. Herald Square sits not alone between the East River and the North,

between the Battery and the Harlem, between five populous boroughs of

the great New York, not alone between the four million other folk who

dwell within fifty miles of her ancient City Hall, but between the shoe

factories of Lynn, the cotton mills of Lowell and of the Carolinas, the

woolen factories of the Scots and the nearer ones of Lawrence, the paper

mills of the Berkshires, the porcelain kilns of Pennsylvania, between a

thousand other manufacturing industries, both very great and very small,

as well. Into Herald Square--into the red-brick edifice upon the

westerly side of Herald Square and reaching all the way on Broadway from

Thirty-fourth to Thirty-fifth Streets--all of these pour a goodly

portion of their products. In turn, these are poured by the big

red-brick store into the pockets and the homes of its tens of thousands

of patrons.

A mighty business this; and, as we shall presently see, a business made

up of many little businesses. Merchandising, financing, transportation;

each has played its own great part in the bringing of that silk sock

upon your foot or the felt that you wear upon your head. Each has

co-operated; each has correlated its effort. There are few accidents in

modern business. Rule-o'-thumb has stepped out of its back-door. In its

place have come cool calculation, steady planning, scientific

investigation. If modern merchandising has tricks, these are they. And

they are the tricks that win.

In our last chapter we pictured R. H. Macy & Company as a machine of

salesmanship. Now I should like to change the film upon the screen. I

should like to show you Macy's as a machine of buying. Obviously one

cannot sell, without first buying. Buying must at all times precede

selling, while to meet competition and still sell goods at a profit, the

keenest sort of shrewd merchandising must be used in purchasing. Your

buyer must be no less a salesman than he who stands behind the retail

counters and, what is more to the point, he must constantly keep his

finger upon the pulse of the market. Which means, in turn, that he must

not for a day or an hour lose his touch with manufacturing and financial

conditions--to say nothing of the changeable public taste.

For the one hundred and eighteen different departments of the Macy's of

today there are now sixty-nine buyers; the majority of them women. This

last is not surprising when one comes to consider that by far the larger

percentage of the department-store's customers are of the gentler sex.

Women know how to buy for women--or should know. How foolish indeed

would be the merchant prince of the New York of this day who would not

instantly say "yes" to the assertion that feminine taste in buying is

the one thing with which his store absolutely could not dispense. So the

woman buyer in our city stores is so much an accepted fact as to call

today for little special comment, save possibly to add that in no store

outside of Macy's has she come more completely into her own. The buyer's

job covets her. And she covets the buyer's job. Well she may. For it is

a job well worth coveting--in independence, in opportunity and in

salary.

In almost every case a buyer comes to the job from retail

experience--although occasionally a knowledge of wholesale selling

develops the required skill. In nine cases out of ten, however, he or

she rises to the important little office on the seventh floor from the

salesforce upon the retail floors beneath. From salesclerk he--or as we

have just learned, usually she--is promoted to "head of stock," which is

the title of the head clerk in a department having three or four or more

clerks. This promotion comes from a superior knowledge of the stock, yet

not from that alone: the clerk must have executive ability. An agreeable

temperament is also a necessary ingredient to the potion of promotion.

To the position of assistant buyer is the next and logical promotion for

the ambitious and successful "head of stock." After this should come the

step to the big job--which steadily grows bigger--of buyer, or as the

Macy store prefers to call it, department manager.

Department managers do no actual selling. They now have graduated from

that. Yet none the less are they salesmen--in more than a little truth,

super-salesmen. For not only must they know what to buy--and how to buy

it at the most favorable price--but they are equally responsible for

knowing what to do with their purchases, once made. They are the

merchants of the departments; accountable for the saleability of their

stock. It is very much their concern whether those departments show a

profit or a loss. Little stores within a big store. A big store made up

of more than a hundred little stores.

The Romance of a Great Store · 第 8 / 16 段