CHAPTER XIII.

OVER THE RIVER.

IT IS our intention to explore a route from Kanab to the Colorado River

at the mouth of the Paria, and, if successful in this undertaking, to

cross the river and proceed to Tusayan, and ultimately to Santa Fe, New

Mexico. We propose to build a flatboat for the purpose of ferrying over

the river, and have had the lumber necessary for that purpose hauled

from St. George to Kanab. From here to the mouth of the Paria it must be

packed on the backs of mules; Captain Bishop and Mr. Graves are to

take charge of this work, while with Mr. Hamblin I explore the Kaibab

Plateau.

September 24--To-day we are ready for the start. The mules are packed

and away goes our train of lumber, rations, and camping equipage. The

Indian trail is at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. Pushing on to the

east with Mr. Hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning, we

reach the mouth of a dry canyon, which comes down through the cliffs.

Instead of a narrow canyon we find an open valley from one fourth to one

half a mile in width. On rare occasions a stream flows down this valley,

but now sand dunes stretch across it. On either side there is a wall of

vertical rock of orange sandstone, and here and there at the foot of the

wall are found springs that afford sweet water.

We push our way far up the valley to the foot of the Gray Cliffs, and

by a long detour find our way to the summit. Here again we find that

wonderful scenery of naked white rocks carved into great round bosses

and domes. Looking off to the north we can see vermilion and pink

cliffs, crowned with forests, while below us to the south stretch the

dunes and red-lands of the Vermilion Cliff region, and far away we can

see the opposite wall of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of the

328 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

afternoon we descend into the canyon valley and hurriedly ride, down to

the mouth of the canyon, then follow the trail of the pack train, for we

are to camp with the party to-night. We find it at the Navajo Well.

As we approach in the darkness the camp fire is a cheerful sight. The

Navajo Well is a pool in the sand, the sands themselves lying in a

basin, with naked, smooth rocks all about on which the rains are caught

and by which the sand in the basin is filled with water, and by digging

into the sand this sweet water is found.

September 25.--At sunrise Mr. Hamblin and I part from the train once

more, taking with us Chuar, a chief of the Kaibabits, for a trip to

the south, for one more view of the Grand Canyon from the summit of the

Kaibab Plateau. All day long our way is over red hills, with a bold line

of cliffs on our left. A little after noon we reach a great spring, and

here we are to camp for the night, for the region beyond us is unknown

and we wish to enter it with a good day before us. The Indian goes out

to hunt a rabbit for supper, and Hamblin and I climb the cliffs. From

an elevation of 1,800 feet above the spring we watch the sun go down and

see the sheen on the Vermilion Cliffs and red-lands slowly fade into the

gloaming; then we descend to supper.

September 26.--Early in the morning we pass up a beautiful valley to

the south and turn westward onto a great promontory, from the summit

of which the Grand Canyon is in view. Its deep gorge can be seen to the

westward for 50 or 60 miles, and to the southeastward we look off into

the stupendous chasm, with its marvelous forms and colors.

Twenty-one years later I read over the notes of that day's experience

and the picture of the Grand Canyon from this point is once more before

me. I did not know when writing the notes that this was the grandest

view that can be obtained of the region from Fremont's Peak to the Gulf

of California, but I did realize that the scene before me was awful,

sublime, and glorious--awful in profound depths, sublime in massive and

strange forms, and glorious in colors. Years later I visited the same

spot with my friend Thomas Moran. From this world of wonder he selected

a section which was the most interesting to him and painted it. That

painting, known as "The Chasm of the Colorado," is in a hall in the

Senate wing of the Capitol of the United States. If any

329 powell-canyons-204.jpg

TUSAYAN FETICHES AND IMPLEMENTS.

330 powell-canyons-205.jpg

TUSAYAN BASKETRY.

OVER THE RIVER. 331

one will look upon that picture, and then realize that it was but a

small part of the landscape before us on this memorable 26th day of

September, he will understand why I suppress my notes descriptive of

the scene. The landscape is too vast, too complex, too grand for verbal

description.

We sleep another night by the spring on the summit of the Kaibab, and

next day we go around to Point Sublime and then push on to the very

verge of the Kaibab, where we can overlook the canyon at the mouth of

the Little Colorado. The day is a repetition of the glorious day before,

and at night we sleep again at the same spring. In the morning we turn

to the northeast and descend from Kaibab to the back of Marble Canyon

and cross it at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs, and find our packers

camped at Jacob's Pool, where a spring bursts from the cliff at the

summit of a great hill of talus. In the camp we find a score or more

of Indians, who have joined us here by previous appointment, as we need

their services in crossing the river.

On the last day of September we follow the Vermilion Cliffs around to

the mouth of the Paria. Here the cliffs present a wall of about 2,000

feet in height,--above, orange and vermilion, but below, chocolate,

purple, and gray in alternating bands of rainbow brightness. The

cliffs are cut with deep side canyons, and the rainbow hills below are

destitute of vegetation. At night we camp on the bank of the Colorado

River, on the same spot where our boat-party had camped the year before.

Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Graves and Mr. Bishop, while they are

building a ferryboat, I take some Indians to explore the canyon of the

Paria. We find steep walls on either side, but a rather broad,

flat plain below, through which the muddy river winds its way over

quicksands. This stream we have to cross from time to time, and we find

the quicksands treacherous and our horses floundering in the trembling

masses.

These broad canyons, or canyon valleys, are carved by the streams in

obedience to an interesting law of corrasion. Where the declivity of the

stream is great the river corrades, or cuts its bottom deeper and still

deeper, ever forming narrow clefts, but when the stream has cut its

channel down until the declivity is greatly reduced, it can no longer

carry the load of sand with which it is fed, but drops

332 powell-canyons-206.jpg

DANCE PARAPHERNALIA FROM TUSAYAN.

OVER THE RIVER. 333

a part of it on the way. Wherever it drops it in this manner a sand bank

is formed. Now the effect of this sand bar is to turn the course of the

river against the wall or bank, and as it unloads in one place it cuts

in another below and loads itself again; so it unloads itself and forms

bars, and loads itself with more material to form bars, and the process

of vertical cutting is transformed into a process of lateral cutting.

The rate of cutting is greatly increased thereby, but the wear is on the

sides and not on the bottom. So long as the declivity of the stream

is great, the greater the load of sand carried the greater the rate of

vertical cutting; but when the declivity is reduced, so that part of the

load is thrown down, vertical cutting is changed to lateral and the rate

of corrosion multiplied thereby. Now this broad valley canyon, or "box

canyon," as such channels are usually called in the country, has been

formed by the stream itself, cutting its channel at first vertically and

afterwards laterally, and so a great flood-plain is formed.

For a day we ride up the Paria, and next day return. The party in camp

have made good progress. The boat is finished and a part of the

camp freight has been transported across the river. The next day the

remainder is ferried over and the animals are led across, swimming

behind the ferryboat in pairs. Here a bold bluff more than 1,200 feet in

height has to be climbed, and the day is spent in getting to its summit.

We make a dry camp, that is, without water, except that which has been

carried in canteens by the Indians.

October 4---All day long we pass by the foot of the Echo Cliffs, which

are in fact the continuation of the Vermilion Cliffs. It is still a

landscape of rocks, with cliffs and pinnacles and towers and buttes on

the left, and deep chasms running down into the Marble Canyon on the

right. At night we camp at a water pocket, a pool in a great limestone

rock. We still go south for another half day to a cedar ridge; here we

turn westward, climbing the cliffs, which we find to be not the edge

of an escarpment with a plateau above, but a long narrow ridge which

descends on the eastern side to a level only 500 or 600 feet above the

trail left below. On the eastern side of the cliff a great homogeneous

sandstone stretches, declining rapidly, and on its sides are carved

innumerable basins, which are now filled with pure water, and we call

this the Thousand Wells. We have a long afternoon's

334

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

ride over sand dunes, slowly toiling from mile to mile. We can see a

ledge of rocks in the distance, and the Indian with us assures us that

we shall find water there. At night we come to the cliff, and under it,

in a great cave, we find a lakelet. Sweeter, cooler water never blessed

the desert.

While at Jacob's Pool, several days before, I sent a runner forward

into this region with instructions to hunt us up some of

powell-canyons-207.jpg

THE THOUSAND WELLS.

the natives and bring them to this pool. When we arrive we are

disappointed in not finding them on hand, but a little later half a

dozen men come in with the Indian messenger. They are surly fellows and

seem to be displeased at our coming. Before midnight they leave. Under

the circumstances I do not feel that it is safe to linger long at this

spot; so I do not lie down to rest, but walk the camp among the guards

and see that everything is in readiness to move. About two o'clock I

set a couple of men to prepare a hasty lunch, call up all hands, and we

saddle, pack, eat our lunch, and start off to the southwest to reach

OVER THE RIVER.

335

the Moenkopi, where there is a little ranchería of Indians, a farming

settlement belonging to the Oraibis, so we are told. We set out at a

rapid rate, and when daylight comes we are in sight of the canyon of

the Moenkopi, into which we soon descend; but the ranchería has been

abandoned. Up the Moenkopi we pass several miles, in a beautiful canyon

valley, until we find a pool in a nook of a cliff, where we feel that we

can defend ourselves with certainty, and here we camp for the night.

The next day we go on to Oraibi, one of the pueblos of the Province of

Tusayan.

At Tusayan we stop for two weeks and visit the seven pueblos on the

cliffs. Oraibi is first reached, then Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, and

Mashongnavi, and finally Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano.

In a street of Oraibi our little party is gathered. Soon a council is

called by the cacique, or zchief, and we are assigned to a suite of six

or powell-canyons-208.jpg

TERRACED HOUSES IN ORAIBI, SHOWING ENTRANCE TO KIVA IN FOREGROUND.

336 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

eight rooms for our quarters. We purchase corn of some of the people,

and after feeding our animals they are intrusted to two Indian boys,

who, under the direction of the cacique, take them to a distant mesa to

herd. This is my first view of an inhabited pueblo, though I have seen

many ruins from time to time. At first I am a little disappointed in the

people. They seem scarcely superior to the Shoshones and Utes, tribes

with whom I am so well acquainted. Their dress is less picturesque, and

the men have an ugly fashion of banging their hair in front so that it

comes down to their eyes and conceals their foreheads. But the women are

more neatly dressed and arrange their hair in picturesque coils.

Oraibi is a town of several hundred inhabitants. It stands on a mesa

or little plateau 200 or 300 feet above the surrounding plain. The mesa

itself has a rather diversified surface. The streets of the town are

quite irregular, and in a general way run from north to south. The

houses are constructed to face the east. They are of stone laid in

mortar, and are usually three or four stories high. The second story

stands back upon the first, leaving a terrace over one tier of rooms.

The third is set back of the second, and the fourth back of the third;

so that their houses are terraced to face the east. These terraces on

the top are all flat, and the people usually ascend to the first terrace

by a ladder and then by another into the lower rooms. In like manner,

ladders or rude stairways are used to reach the upper stories. The

climate is very warm and the people live on the tops of their houses.

It seems strange to see little naked children climbing the ladders and

running over the house tops like herds of monkeys. After we have looked

about the town and been gazed upon by the wondering eyes of the men,

women, and children, we are at last called to supper. In a large central

room we gather and the food is placed before us. A stew of goat's flesh

is served in earthen bowls, and each one of us is furnished with a

little earthen ladle. The bread is a great novelty to me. It is made of

corn meal in sheets as thin and large as foolscap paper. In the corner

of the house is a little oven, the top of which is a great flat stone,

and the good housewife bakes her bread in this manner: The corn meal is

mixed to the consistency of a rather thick gruel, and the woman dips her

hand into the mixture and plasters the hot

OVER THE RIVER.

337

stone with a thin coating of the meal paste. In a minute or two it forms

into a thin paperlike cake, and she takes it up by the edge, folds it

once, and places it on a basket tray; then another and another sheet of

paper-bread is made in like manner and piled on the tray. I notice that

the paste stands in a number of different bowls and that she takes from,

one bowl and then another in order, and I soon see the effect of this.

The corn before being ground is assorted by colors, white, yellow, red,

blue, and black, and the sheets of bread, when made, are of the same

variety of colors, white, yellow, red, blue, and black. This bread,

held on very beautiful trays, is itself a work of art. They call it

powell-canyons-209.jpg

THE HOUSE OF TALTI, CHIEF OF THE COUNCIL IN THE TOWN OF OBAIBI.

piki. After we have partaken of goat stew and bread a course of

dumplings, melons, and peaches is served, and this finishes the feast.

What seem to be dumplings are composed of a kind of hash of bread and

meat, tied up in little balls with cornhusks and served boiling hot.

They are eaten with much gusto by the party and highly praised. Some

days after we learned how they are made; they are prepared of goat's

flesh, bread, and turnips, and kneaded by mastication. As we prefer to

masticate our own food, this dainty dish is never again a favorite.

In the evening the people celebrate our advent by a dance, such it

seemed to us, but probably it was one of their regular ceremonies.

338 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

After dark a pretty little fire is built in the chimney corner and I

spend the evening in rehearsing to a group of the leading men the story

of my travels in the canyon country. Of our journey down the canyon in

boats they have already heard, and they listen with great interest to

what I say. My talk with them is in the Mexican patois, which several of

them understand, and all that I say is interpreted.

The next morning we are up at daybreak. Soon we hear loud shouts coming

from the top of the house. The cacique is calling his people. Then all

the people, men, women, and children, come out on the tops of their

houses. Just before sunrise they sprinkle water and meal from beautiful

grails; then they all stand with bare heads to watch the rising of the

sun. When his full orb is seen, once more they sprinkle the sacred water

and the sacred meal over the tops of the houses. Then the cacique in a

loud voice directs the labor of the day. So his talk is explained to us.

Some must gather corn, others must go for wood, water must be brought

from the distant wells, and the animals of the strangers must be cared

for. Now the house tops present a lively scene. Bowls of water are

brought; from them the men fill their mouths and with dexterity blow

water over their hands in spray and wash their faces and lave their long

shining heads of hair; and the women dress one another's locks. With

bowls of water they make suds of the yucca plant, and wash and comb and

deftly roll their hair, the elder women in great coils at the back of

the head, the younger women in flat coils on their cheeks. And so the

days are passed and the weeks go by, and we study the language of the

people and record many hundreds of their words and observe their habits

and customs and gain some knowledge of their mythology, but above all do

we become interested in their religious ceremonies.

One afternoon they take me from Oraibi to Shupaulovi to witness a great

religious ceremony. It is the invocation to the gods for rain. We arrive

about sundown, and are taken into a large subterranean chamber, into

which we descend by a ladder. Soon about a dozen Shamans are gathered

with us, and the ceremony continues from sunset to sunrise. It is a

series of formal invocations, incantations, and sacrifices, especially

of holy meal and holy water. The leader of the Shamans is a great burly

bald-headed Indian, which is a remarkable

OVER THE RIVER.

339 powell-canyons-210.jpg

PRAYING FOR RAIN.

sight, for I have never seen one before. Whatever he says or does is

repeated by three others in turn. The paraphernalia of their worship is

very interesting. At one end of the chamber is a series of tablets of

wood covered with quaint pictures of animals and of corn, and overhead

are conventional black clouds from which yellow lightnings are

projected, while drops of rain fall on the corn below. Wooden birds, set

on pedestals and decorated with plumes, are arranged in various ways.

Ears of corn, vases of holy water, and trays of meal make up a part of

the paraphernalia of worship. I try to record some of the prayers, but

am not very successful, as it is difficult to hold my interpreter to the

work. But one of these prayers is something like this:

"Muingwa pash lolomai, Master of the Clouds, we eat no stolen bread; our

young men ride not the stolen ass; our food is not stolen from

340

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

the gardens of our neighbors. Muingwa pash lolomai, we beseech of thee

to dip your great sprinkler, made of the feathers of the birds of the

heavens, into the lakes of the skies and sprinkle us with sweet rains,

that the ground may be prepared in the winter for the corn that grows in

the summer."

At one time in the night three women were brought into the kiva. These

women had a cincture of cotton about their loins, but were otherwise

nude. One was very old, another of middle age, and the third quite

young, perhaps fourteen or fifteen years old. As they stood in a corner

of the kiva their faces and bodies were painted by the bald-headed

priest. For this purpose he filled his mouth with water and pigment

and dexterously blew a fine spray over the faces, necks, shoulders, and

breasts of the women. Then with his finger as a brush he decorated them

over this groundwork, which was of yellow, with many figures in various

colors. From that time to daylight the three women remained in the kiva

and took part in the ceremony as choristers and dancing performers.

At sunrise we are filed out of the kiva, and a curious sight is

presented to our view. Shupaulovi is built in terraces about a central

court, or plaza, and in the plaza about fifty men are drawn up in a line

facing us. These men are naked except that they wear masks, strange

and grotesque, and great flaring headdresses in many colors.

powell-canyons-211.jpg

MASHONGNAVI.

341 powell-canyons-212.jpg

TUSAYAN TRAYS.

342 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

Our party from the kiva stand before this line of men, and the

bald-headed priest harangues them in words I cannot understand. Then

across the other end of the plaza a line of women is formed, facing

the line of men, and at a signal from the old Shaman the drums and

the whistles on the terraces, with a great chorus of singers, set up a

tumultuous noise, and with slow shuffling steps the line of men and the

line of women move toward each other in a curious waving dance. When the

lines approach so as to be not more than 10 or 12 feet apart, our party

still being between them, they all change so as to dance backward to

their original positions. This is repeated until the dancers have passed

over the plaza four times. Then there is a wild confusion of dances,

the order of which I cannot understand,--if indeed there is any system,

except that the men and women dance apart. Soon this is over, and the

women all file down the ladder into the kiva and the men strip off their

masks and arrange themselves about the plaza, every one according to his

own wish, but as if in sharp expectancy; then the women return up the

ladder from the kiva and climb to the tops of the houses and stand on

the brink of the nearer terrace. Now the music commences once more,

and the old woman who was painted in the kiva during the night throws

something, I cannot tell what, into the midst of the plaza. With a shout

and a scream, every man jumps for it; one seizes it, another takes it

away from him, and then another secures it; and with shouts and screams

they wrestle and tussle for the charm which the old woman has thrown to

them. After a while some one gets permanent possession of the charm

and the music ceases. Then another is thrown into the midst. So these

contests continue at intervals until high noon.

In the evening we return to Oraibi. And now for two days we employ our

time in making a collection of the arts of the people of this town.

First, we display to them our stock of goods, composed of knives,

needles, awls, scissors, paints, dyestuffs, leather, and various

fabrics in gay colors. Then we go around among the people and select the

articles of pottery, stone implements, instruments and utensils made of

bone, horn, shell, articles of clothing and ornament, baskets, trays,

and many other things, and tell the people to bring them the next day to

our rooms. A little after sunrise they come in, and we have a busy day

of

343 powell-canyons-213.jpg powell-canyons-214.jpg

TUSAYAN MASKETTES.

344

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

barter. When articles are brought in such as I want, I lay them aside.

Then if possible I discover the fancy of the one who brings them, and I

put by the articles the goods which I am willing to give in exchange for

them. Having thus made an offer, I never deviate from it, but leave it

to the option of the other party to take either his own articles or mine

lying beside them. The barter is carried on with a hearty good will; the

people jest and laugh with us and with one another; all are pleased,

and there is nothing to mar this day of pleasure. In the afternoon and

evening I make an inventory of our purchases, and the next day is spent

in packing them for shipment. Some of the things are heavy, and I engage

some Indians to help transport the cargo to Fort Wingate, where we can

get army transportation.

October 24-.--To-day we leave Oraibi. We are ready to start in the early

morning. The whole town comes to bid us good-by. Before we start they

perform some strange ceremony which I cannot understand, but, with

invocations to some deity, they sprinkle us, our animals, and our

goods with water and with meal. Then there is a time of handshaking and

hugging. "Good-by; good-by; good-by!" At last we powell-canyons-215.jpg

SICHUMOVI AND HANO.

OVER THE RIVER. 345

start. Our way is to Walpi, by a heavy trail over a sand plain, among

the dunes. We arrive a little after noon. Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano are

three little towns on one butte, with but little space between them; the

stretch from town to town is hardly large enough for a game of ball.

The top of the butte is of naked rock, and it rises from 300 to 400 feet

above the sand plains below by a precipitous cliff on every side. To

reach it from below, it must be climbed by niches and stairways in the

rock. It is a good site for defense. At the foot of the cliff and on

some terraces the people have built corrals of stone for their asses.

All the water used in these three towns is derived from a well nearly a

mile away--a deep pit sunk in the sand, over the site of a dune-buried

brook.

When we arrive the men of Walpi carry our goods, camp equipage, and

saddles up the stairway and deposit them in a little court. Then they

assign us eight or ten rooms for our quarters. Our animals are once more

consigned to the care of Indian herders, and after they are fed they are

sent away to a distance of some miles. There is no tree or shrub growing

near the Walpi mesa. It is miles away to where the stunted cedars are

found, and the people bring curious little loads of wood on the backs of

their donkeys, it being a day's work to bring such a cargo. The people

have anticipated our coming, and the wood for our use is piled in the

chimney corners. After supper the hours till midnight are passed in

rather formal talk.

Walpi seems to be a town of about 150 inhabitants, Sichumovi of less

than 100, and Hano of not more than 75. Hano, or "Tewa" as it is

sometimes called, has been built lately; that is, it cannot be more than

100 or 200 years old. The other towns are very old; their foundation

dates back many centuries--so we gather from this talk. The people of

Hano also speak a radically distinct language, belonging to another

stock of tribes. They formerly lived on the Rio Grande, but during some

war they were driven away and were permitted to build their home here.

Two days are spent in trading with the people, and we pride ourselves on

having made a good ethnologic collection. We are especially interested

in seeing the men and women spin and weave. In their courtyards they

have deep chambers excavated in the rocks. These chambers,

346

CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.

which are called kivas, are entered by descending ladders. They are

about 18 by 24 feet in size. The kiva is the place of worship, where all

their ceremonies are performed, where their cult societies meet to pray

for rain and to prepare medicines and charms against fancied and

real ailments and to protect themselves by sorcery from the dangers

powell-canyons-216.jpg

WALPI. A VILLAGE OF TUSAYAN.

of witchcraft. The kivas are also places for general rendezvous, and

at night the men and women bring their work and chat and laugh, and in

their rude way make the time merry. Many of the tribes of North America

have their cult societies, or "medicine orders," as they are sometimes

called, but this institution has been nowhere developed more thoroughly

than among the pueblo Indians of this region. I am informed that there

are a great number in Tusayan, that a part of their ceremonies are

secret and another part public, and that the times of ceremony are also

times for feasting and athletic sports.

Here at Walpi the great snake dance is performed. For several days

OVER THE RIVER. 347

before this festival is held the people with great diligence gather

snakes from the rocks and sands of the region round about and bring

them to the kiva of one of their clans in great numbers, by scores and

hundreds. Most of these snakes are quite harmless, but rattlesnakes

abound, and they are also caught, for they play the most important role

in the great snake dance. The medicine men, or priest doctors, are very

deft in the management of rattlesnakes. When they bring them to the kiva

they herd all the snakes in a great mass of writhing, hissing, rattling

serpents. For this purpose they have little wands, to the end of each

one of which a bunch of feathers is affixed. If a snake attempts to

leave its allotted place in the kiva the medicine man brushes it or

tickles it with the feather-armed wand, and the snake turns again to

commingle with its fellows. After many strange and rather wearisome

ceremonies, with dancing and invocations and ululations, the men of the

order prepare for the great performance with the snakes. Clothed only

in loincloth, each one seizes a snake, and a rattlesnake is preferred if

there are enough of them for all. It is managed in this way: The snake

is teased with the feather wand and his attention occupied by one man,

while another, standing near, at a favorable moment seizes the snake

just, back of the head. Then he puts the snake in his mouth, holding

it across, so that the head protrudes on one side and the body on the

other, which coils about his hand and arm. A few inches of the head and

neck are free, and with this free portion the snake struggles, squirming

in the air; but the attention of the snake is constantly occupied by

the attendant who carries the wand. Then the men of the priest order

carrying the snakes in their mouths arrange themselves in a line in the

court and move in a procession several times about the court, and then

engage in a dance. After the ceremony all of the snakes are carried to

the plain and given their freedom.

This snake dance was not witnessed at the time of the first visit, but

an account of it was then obtained, such as given above. It has since

been witnessed by myself and by others, and carefully prepared accounts

of the ceremonies have been published by different persons.

At last our work at Walpi is done, on October 27, and we arrange to

leave on the morrow.

348 powell-canyons-217.jpg

TUSAYAN BASKETRY.

349 powell-canyons-218.jpg

TUSAYAN BASKETRY.

350 powell-canyons-219.jpg

ZUÑÍ FROM HOUSETOPS, LOOKING EAST.

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