FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER.
THE Yampa enters the Green from the east. At a point opposite its mouth
the Green runs to the south, at the foot of a rock about 700 feet high
and a mile long, and then turns sharply around the rock to the right
and runs back in a northerly course parallel to its former direction for
nearly another mile, thus having the opposite sides of a long, narrow
rock for its bank. The tongue of rock so formed is a peninsular
precipice with a mural escarpment along its whole course on the east,
but broken down at places on the west.
On the east side of the river, opposite the rock and below the Yampa,
there is a little park, just large enough for a farm, already fenced
with high walls of gray homogeneous sandstone. There are three river
entrances to this park: one down the Yampa; one below, by coming up the
Green; and another down the Green. There is also a land entrance down
a lateral canyon. Elsewhere the park is inaccessible. Through this land
entrance by the side canyon there is a trail made by Indian hunters, who
come down here in certain seasons to kill mountain sheep. Great hollow
domes are seen in the eastern side of the rock, against which the Green
sweeps; willows border the river; clumps of box-elder are seen; and a
few cottonwoods stand at the lower end. Standing opposite the rock, our
words are repeated with startling clearness, but in a soft, mellow tone,
that transforms them into magical music. Scarcely can one believe it is
the echo of his own voice. In some places two or three echoes come back;
in other places they repeat themselves, passing back and forth across
the river between this rock and the eastern wall. To hear these repeated
echoes well, we must shout. Some of the party aver that ten or twelve
repetitions can be heard. To
168 8 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
me, they seem rapidly to diminish and merge by multiplicity, like
telegraph poles on an outstretched plain. I have observed the same
phenomenon once before in the cliffs near Long's Peak, and am pleased to
meet with it again.
During the afternoon Bradley and I climb some cliffs to the north.
Mountain sheep are seen above us, and they stand out on the rocks and
eye us intently, not seeming to move. Their color is much like that of
the gray sandstone beneath them, and, immovable as they are, they appear
like carved forms. Now a fine ram beats the rock with his fore foot,
and, wheeling around, they all bound away together, leaping over rocks
and chasms and climbing walls where no man can follow, and this with an
ease and grace most wonderful. At night we return to our camp under the
box-elders by the river side. Here we are to spend two or three days,
making a series of astronomic observations for latitude and longitude.
June 18.--We have named the long peninsular rock on the other side Echo
Rock. Desiring to climb it, Bradley and I take the little boat and
pull up stream as far as possible, for it cannot be climbed directly
opposite. We land on a talus of rocks at the upper end in order to reach
a place where it seems practicable to make the ascent; but we find we
must go still farther up the river. So we scramble along, until we reach
a place where the river sweeps against the wall. Here we find a shelf
along which we can pass, and now are ready for the climb.
We start up a gulch; then pass to the left on a bench along the wall;
then up again over broken rocks; then we reach more benches, along
which we walk, until we find more broken rocks and crevices, by which we
climb; still up, until we have ascended 600 or 800 feet, when we are
met by a sheer precipice. Looking about, we find a place where it seems
possible to climb. I go ahead; Bradley hands the barometer to me, and
follows. So we proceed, stage by stage, until we are nearly to the
summit. Here, by making a spring, I gain a foothold in a little crevice,
and grasp an angle of the rock overhead. I find I can get up no farther
and cannot step back, for I dare not let go with my hand and cannot
reach foothold below without. I call to Bradley for help. He finds a way
by which he can get to the top of the
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.
169
rock over my head, but cannot reach me. Then he looks around for some
stick or limb of a tree, but finds none. Then he suggests that he would
better help me with the barometer case, but I fear I cannot hold on to
it. The moment is critical. Standing on my toes, my muscles begin to
tremble. It is sixty or eighty feet to the foot of the precipice. If I
lose my hold I shall fall to the bottom and then perhaps roll over the
bench and tumble still farther down the cliff. At this instant it occurs
to Bradley to take off his drawers, which he does, and swings them down
to me. I hug close to the rock, let go with my hand, seize the dangling
legs, and with his assistance am enabled to gain the top.
Then we walk out on the peninsular rock, make the necessary observations
for determining its altitude above camp, and return, finding an easy way
down.
June 19.--To-day, Howland, Bradley, and I take the "Emma Dean" and start
up the Yampa River. The stream is much swollen, the current swift, and
we are able to make but slow progress against it. The canyon in this
part of the course of the Yampa is cut through light gray sandstone.
The river is very winding, and the swifter water is usually
powell-canyons-114.jpg
THE RESCUE.
170
CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
found on the outside of the curve, sweeping against vertical cliffs
often a thousand feet high. In the center of these curves, in many
places, the rock above overhangs the river. On the opposite side the
walls are broken, craggy, and sloping, and occasionally side canyons
enter. When we have rowed until we are quite tired we stop and take
advantage of one of these broken places to climb out of the canyon. When
above, we can look up the Yampa for a distance of several miles. From
the summit of the immediate walls of the canyon the rocks rise gently
back for a distance of a mile or two, having the appearance of a
valley with an irregular and rounded sandstone floor and in the
powell-canyons-115.jpg
ECHO PARK.
center a deep gorge, which is the canyon. The rim of this valley on the
north is from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the river; on the south it is
not so high. A number of peaks stand on this northern rim, the highest
of which has received the name Mount Dawes.
Late in the afternoon we descend to our boat and return to camp in Echo
Park, gliding down in twenty minutes on the rapid river, a distance of
four or five miles, which was made up stream only by several hours' hard
rowing in the morning.
June 20.--This morning two of the men take me up the Yampa for a short
distance, and I go out to climb. Having reached the top of
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.
171
the canyon, I walk over long stretches of naked sandstone, crossing
gulches now and then, and by noon reach the summit of Mount Dawes. From
this point I can look away to the north and see in the dim distance the
Sweetwater and Wind River mountains, more than 100 miles away. To the
northwest the Wasatch Mountains are in view, and peaks of the Uinta.
To the east I can see the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains,
powell-canyons-116.jpg
FRAGMENT OF WALL, ZUÑI.
more than 150 miles distant. The air is singularly clear to-day;
mountains and buttes stand in sharp outline, valleys stretch out in
perspective, and I can look down into the deep canyon gorges and see
gleaming waters.
Descending, I cross to a ridge near the brink of the Canyon of Lodore,
the highest point of which is nearly as high as the last mentioned
mountain. Late in the afternoon I stand on this elevated
172
CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
point and discover a monument that has evidently been built by human
hands. A few plants are growing in the joints between the rocks, and
all are lichened over to a greater or less extent, giving evidence
powell-canyons-117.jpg
172
KIVAS OF SHUMOPAVI.
that the pile was built a long time ago. This line of peaks, the eastern
extension of the Uinta Mountains, has received the name of Sierra
Escalante, in honor of a Spanish priest who traveled in this region of
country nearly a century ago. Perchance the reverend father built this
monument.
Now I return to the river and discharge my gun, as a signal for the boat
to come and take me down to camp. While we have been in the park the
men have succeeded in catching a number of fish, and we have an abundant
supply. This is a delightful addition to our menu.
June 21.-- We float around the long rock and enter another canyon. The
walls are high and vertical, the canyon is narrow, and the river
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.
173
fills the whole space below, so that there is no landing-place at the
foot of the cliff. The Green is greatly increased by the Yampa, and we
now have a much larger river. All this volume of water, confined, as it
is, in a narrow channel and rushing with great velocity, is set eddying
and spinning in whirlpools by projecting rocks and short curves, and the
waters waltz their way through the canyon, making their own rippling,
rushing, roaring music. The canyon is much narrower than any we have
seen. We manage our boats with difficulty. They spin about from side to
side and we know not where we are going, and find it impossible to keep
them headed down the stream. At first this causes us great alarm, but we
soon find there is little danger, and that there is a general movement
or progression down the river, to which this whirling is but an
adjunct--that it is the merry mood powell-canyons-118.jpg
GENERAL VTEW OF AWATUBI.
of the river to dance through this deep, dark gorge, and right gaily do
we join in the sport.
But soon our revel is interrupted by a cataract; its roaring command is
heeded by all our power at the oars, and we pull against the whirling
current. The "Emma Dean" is brought up against a cliff
174 4 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
about 50 feet above the brink of the fall. By vigorously plying the oars
on the side opposite the wall, as if to pull up stream, we can hold her
against the rock. The boats behind are signaled to land where they can.
The "Maid of the Canyon" is pulled to the left wall, and, by constant
rowing, they can hold her also. The "Sister" is run into an alcove on
the right, where an eddy is in a dance, and in this she joins. Now my
little boat is held against the wall only by the utmost exertion, and
it is impossible to make headway against the current. On examination, I
find a horizontal crevice in the rock, about 10 feet above the water and
a boat's length below us; so we let her down to that point. One of the
men clambers into the crevice, into which he can just crawl; we toss him
the line, which he makes fast in the rocks, and now our boat is tied up.
Then I follow into the crevice and we crawl along up stream a distance
of 50 feet or more, and find a broken place where we can climb about 50
feet higher. Here we stand on a shelf that passes along down stream to
a point above the falls, where it is broken down, and a pile of rocks,
over which we can descend to the river, is lying against the foot of the
cliff.
It has been mentioned that one of the boats is on the other side. I
signal for the men to pull her up alongside of the wall, but it cannot
be done; then to cross. This they do, gaining the wall on our side just
above where the "Emma Dean" is tied.
The third boat is out of sight, whirling in the eddy of a recess.
Looking about, I find another horizontal crevice, along which I crawl to
a point just over the water where this boat is lying, and, calling loud
and long, I finally succeed in making the crew understand that I want
them to bring the boat down, hugging the wall. This they accomplish by
taking advantage of every crevice and knob on the face of the cliff, so
that we have the three boats together at a point a few yards above the
falls. Now, by passing a line up on the shelf, the boats can be let down
to the broken rocks below. This we do, and, making a short portage, our
troubles here are over.
Below the falls the canyon is wider, and there is more or less space
between the river and the walls; but the stream, though wide, is rapid,
and rolls at a fearful rate among the rocks. We proceed with great
caution, and run the large boats wholly by signal.
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA EIVER.
175
At night we camp at the mouth of a small creek, which affords us a
good supper of trout. In camp to-night we discuss the propriety
powell-canyons-119.jpg
SWALLOW CAVE.
of several different names for this canyon. At the falls encountered at
noon its characteristics change suddenly. Above, it is very narrow, and
the walls are almost vertical; below, the canyon is much wider
176 6 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
and more flaring, and high up on the sides crags, pinnacles, and towers
are seen. A number of wild and narrow side canyons enter, and the walls
are much broken. After many suggestions our choice rests between two
names, Whirlpool Canyon and Craggy Canyon, neither of which is strictly
appropriate for both parts of it; so we leave the discussion at this
point, with the understanding that it is best, before finally deciding
on a name, to wait until we see what the character of the canyon is
below.
June 22.--Still making short portages and letting down with lines. While
we are waiting for dinner to-day, I climb a point that gives me a good
view of the river for two or three miles below, and I think we can make
a long run. After dinner we start; the large boats are to follow in
fifteen minutes and look out for the signal to land. Into the middle
of the stream we row, and down the rapid river we glide, only making
strokes enough with the oars to guide the boat. What a headlong ride it
is! shooting past rocks and islands. I am soon filled with exhilaration
only experienced before in riding a fleet horse over the outstretched
prairie. One, two, three, four miles we go, rearing and plunging with
the waves, until we wheel to the right into a beautiful park and land on
an island, where we go into camp.
An hour or two before sunset I cross to the mainland and climb a point
of rocks where I can overlook the park and its surroundings. On the
east it is bounded by a high mountain ridge. A semicircle of naked hills
bounds it on the north, west, and south.
The broad, deep river meanders through the park, interrupted by many
wooded islands; so I name it Island Park, and decide to call the canyon
above, Whirlpool Canyon.
June 23.--We remain in camp to-day to repair our boats, which have had
hard knocks and are leaking. Two of the men go out with the barometer to
climb the cliff at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon and measure the walls;
another goes on the mountain to hunt; and Bradley and I spend the day
among the rocks, studying an interesting geologic fold and collecting
fossils. Late in the afternoon the hunter returns and brings with him a
fine, fat deer; so we give his name to the mountain--Mount Hawkins. Just
before night we move camp to the lower end of the park, floating down
the river about four miles.
PROM ECHO PAEK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA KIVEK.
177
June 24.--Bradley and I start early to climb the mountain ridge to the
east, and find its summit to be nearly 3,000 feet above camp. It has
required some labor to scale it; but on its top, what a view! There is a
long spur running out from the Uinta Mountains toward the south, and
the river runs lengthwise through it. Coming down Lodore
powell-canyons-120.jpg
VIEW OF SIIUMOPAVI.
and Whirlpool canyons, we cut through the southern slope of the Uinta
Mountains; and the lower end of this latter canyon runs into the spur,
but, instead of splitting it the whole length, the river wheels to the
right at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon in a great curve to the northwest
through Island Park. At the lower end of the park, the river
178
CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. powell-canyons-121.jpg
RUINS.
turns again to the southeast and cuts into the mountain to its center
and then makes a detour to the southwest, splitting the mountain ridge
for a distance of six miles nearly to its foot, and then turns out of it
to the left. All this we can see where we stand on the summit of Mount
Hawkins, and so we name the gorge below, Split Mountain Canyon.
We are standing 3,000 feet above the waters, which are troubled with
billows and are white with foam. The walls are set with crags and peaks
and buttressed towers and overhanging domes. Turning to the right, the
park is below us, its island groves reflected by the deep, quiet waters.
Rich meadows stretch out on either hand to the verge of a sloping plain
that comes down from the distant mountains. These plains are of almost
naked rock, in strange contrast to the meadows,--blue and lilac colored
rocks, buff and pink, vermilion and brown,
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.
179
and all these colors clear and bright. A dozen little creeks, dry the
greater part of the year, run down through the half circle of exposed
formations, radiating from the island center to the rim of the basin.
Each creek has its system of side streams and each side stream has
its system of laterals, and again these are divided; so that
this outstretched slope of rock is elaborately embossed. Beds of
different-colored formations run in parallel bands on either side.
The perspective, modified by the undulations, gives the bands a waved
appearance, and the high colors gleam in the midday sun with the luster
of satin. We are tempted to call this Rainbow Park. Away beyond these
beds are the Uinta and Wasatch mountains with their pine forests and
snow fields and naked peaks. Now we turn to the right and look up
Whirlpool Canyon, a deep gorge with a river at the bottom--a gloomy
chasm, where mad waves roar; but at this distance and altitude the river
is but a rippling brook, and the chasm a narrow cleft. The top of
the mountain on which we stand is a broad, grassy table, and a herd
powell-canyons-122.jpg
RUINS.
180 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
of deer are feeding in the distance. Walking over to the southeast,
we look down into the valley of White River, and beyond that see the
far-distant Rocky Mountains, in mellow, perspective haze, through which
snow fields shine.
June 25.--This morning we enter Split Mountain Canyon, sailing in
through a broad, flaring, brilliant gateway. We run two or three rapids,
after they have been carefully examined. Then we have a series of six
or eight, over which we are compelled to pass by letting the boats down
with lines. This occupies the entire day, and we camp at night at the
mouth of a great cave. The cave is at the foot of one of these rapids,
and the waves dash in nearly to its end. We can pass along a little
shelf at the side until we reach the back part. Swallows have built
their nests in the ceiling, and they wheel in, chattering and scolding
at our intrusion; but their clamor is almost drowned by the noise of the
waters. Looking out of the cave, we can see, far up the river, a line
of crags standing sentinel on either side, and Mount Hawkins in the
distance.
June 26.--The forenoon is spent in getting our large boats over the
rapids. This afternoon we find three falls in close succession. We
carry our rations over the rocks and let our boats shoot over the falls,
checking and bringing them to land with lines in the eddies below. At
three o'clock we are all aboard again. Down the river we are carried
by the swift waters at great speed, sheering around a rock now and then
with a timely stroke or two of the oars. At one point the river turns
from left to right, in a direction at right angles to the canyon, in
a long chute and strikes the right, where its waters are heaped up in
great billows that tumble back in breakers. We glide into the chute
before we see the danger, and it is too late to stop. Two or three hard
strokes are given on the right and we pause for an instant, expecting
to be dashed against the rock. But the bow of the boat leaps high on a
great wave, the rebounding waters hurl us back, and the peril is past.
The next moment the other boats are hurriedly signaled to land on the
left. Accomplishing this, the men walk along the shore, holding the
boats near the bank, and let them drift around. Starting again, we soon
debouch into a beautiful valley, glide down its length for 10 miles, and
camp under a grand
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.
181
old cottonwood. This is evidently a frequent resort for Indians. Tent
poles are lying about, and the dead embers of late camp fires are seen.
On the plains to the left, antelope are feeding. Now and then a wolf is
seen, and after dark they make the air resound with their howling.
June 27.--Now our way is along a gently flowing river, beset with
powell-canyons-123.jpg
INDIAN LODGE IN THE UINTA VALLEY.
many islands; groves are seen on either side, and natural meadows,
where herds of antelope are feeding. Here and there we have views of
the distant mountains on the right. During the afternoon we make a long
detour to the west and return again to a point not more than half a mile
from where we started at noon, and here we camp for the night under a
high bluff. June 28.--To-day the scenery on either side of the river is
much
182 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
the same as that of yesterday, except that two or three lakes are
discovered, lying in the valley to the west. After dinner we run but a
few minutes when we discover the mouth of the Uinta, a river coming
in from the west. Up the valley of this stream about 40 miles the
reservation of the Uinta Indians is situated. We propose to go there
and see if we can replenish our mess-kit, and perhaps send letters to
friends. We also desire to establish an astronomic station here; and
hence this will be our stopping place for several days.
Some years ago Captain Berthoud surveyed a stage route from Salt Lake
City to Denver, and this is the place where he crossed the Green River.
His party was encamped here for some time, constructing a ferry boat and
opening a road.
A little above the mouth of the Uinta, on the west side of the Green,
there is a lake of several thousand acres. We carry our boat across the
divide between this and the river, have a row on its quiet waters, and
succeed in shooting several ducks.
June 29.--A mile and three quarters from here is the junction of the
White River with the Green. The White has its source far to the east in
the Rocky Mountains. This morning I cross the Green and go over into the
valley of the White and extend my walk several miles along its winding
way, until at last I come in sight of some strangely carved rocks, named
by General Hughes, in his journal, "Goblin City." Our last winter's camp
was situated a hundred miles above the point reached to-day. The course
of the river, for much of the distance, is through canyons; but at some
places valleys are found. Excepting these little valleys, the region
is one of great desolation: arid, almost treeless, with bluffs, hills,
ledges of rock, and drifting sands. Along the course of the Green,
however, from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to a point some distance
below the mouth of the Uinta, there are many groves of cottonwood,
natural meadows, and rich lands. This arable belt extends some distance
up the White River on the east and the Uinta on the west, and the time
must soon come when settlers will penetrate this country and make homes.
June 30.--We have a row up the Uinta to-day, but are not able to make
much headway against the swift current, and hence conclude we must walk
all the way to the agency.
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER.
183
July 1.--Two days have been employed in obtaining the local time, taking
observations for latitude and longitude, and making excursions into the
adjacent country. This morning, with two of the men, I start for the
agency. It is a toilsome walk, 20 miles of the distance being across a
sand desert. Occasionally we have to wade the river, crossing it
back and forth. Toward evening we cross several beautiful streams,
powell-canyons-124.jpg
WARRIOR AND BRIDE.
tributaries of the Uinta, and pass through pine groves and meadows,
arriving at the reservation just at dusk. Captain Dodds, the agent, is
away, having gone to Salt Lake City, but his assistants receive us
very kindly. It is rather pleasant to see a house once more, and some
evidences of civilization, even if it is on an Indian reservation
several days' ride from the nearest home of the white man. July 2.--I go
this morning to visit Tsauwiat. This old chief is
184 4 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO.
but the wreck of a man, and no longer has influence. Looking at him one
can scarcely realize that he is a man. His skin is shrunken, wrinkled,
and dry, and seems to cover no more than a form of bones. He is said
to be more than 100 years old. I talk a little with him, but his
conversation is incoherent, though he seems to take pride in showing me
some medals that must have been given him many years ago. He has a pipe
which he says he has used a long time. I offer to exchange with him,
and he seems to be glad to accept; so I add another to my collection of
pipes. His wife, "The Bishop," as she is called, is a very garrulous
old woman; she exerts a great influence, and is much revered. She is the
only Indian woman I have known to occupy a place in the council ring.
She seems very much younger than her husband, and, though wrinkled
and ugly, is still vigorous. She has much to say to me concerning the
condition of the people, and seems very anxious that they should learn
to cultivate the soil, own farms, and live like white men. After talking
a couple of hours with these old people, I go to see the farms. They are
situated in a very beautiful district, where many fine streams of
water meander across alluvial plains and meadows. These creeks have a
considerable fall, and it is easy to take their waters out above and
overflow the lands with them.
It will be remembered that irrigation is necessary in this dry climate
to successful farming. Quite a number of Indians have each a patch of
ground of two or three acres, on which they are raising wheat, potatoes,
turnips, pumpkins, melons, and other vegetables. Most of the crops are
looking well, and it is rather surprising with what pride they show us
that they are able to cultivate crops like white men. They are still
occupying lodges, and refuse to build houses, assigning as a reason
that when any one dies in a lodge it is always abandoned, and very often
burned with all the effects of the deceased; and when houses have been
built for them the houses have been treated in the same way. With their
unclean habits, a fixed residence would doubtless be no pleasant place.
This beautiful valley has been the home of a people of a higher grade
of civilization than the present Utes. Evidences of this are quite
abundant; on our way here yesterday we discovered fragments
FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 185
of pottery in many places along the trail; and, wandering about the
little farms to-day, I find the foundations of ancient houses, and
mealing-stones that were not used by nomadic people, as they are
too heavy to be transported by such tribes, and are deeply worn. The
powell-canyons-125.jpg
OUR INTERPRETER AND HIS FAMILY.
Indians, seeing that I am interested in these matters, take pains to
show me several other places where these evidences remain, and tell me
that they know nothing about the people who formerly dwelt here.
They further tell me that up in the canyon the rocks are covered with
pictures.
July 5.--The last two days have been spent in studying the language
186 powell-canyons-126.jpg
HOUSE BUILDING AT ORAIBI.
PROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 187
of the Indians and in making collections of articles illustrating the
state of arts among them.
Frank Goodman informs me this morning that he has concluded not to go
on with the party, saying that he has seen danger enough. It will be
remembered that he was one of the crew on the "No Name" when she was
wrecked. As our boats are rather heavily loaded, I am content that he
should leave, although he has been a faithful man.
We start early on our return to the boats, taking horses with us from
the reservation, and two Indians, who are to bring the animals back.
Whirlpool Canyon is 14 1/4 miles in length, the walls varying from 1,800
to 2,400 feet in height. The course of the river through Island Park is
9 miles. Split Mountain Canyon is 8 miles long. The highest crags on its
walls reach an altitude above the river of from 2,500 to 2,700 feet. In
these canyons cedars only are found on the walls.
The distance by river from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to the
mouth of the Uinta is 67 miles. The valley through which it runs is
the home of many antelope, and we have adopted for it the Indian name
Won'sits Yuav--Antelope Valley. powell-canyons-127.jpg
188 powell-canyons-128.jpg
GENERAL VIEW OF OJO CALIENTE.
189