General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the different Provinces....
British Manufactures fit for the last Provinces visited....General
Character of the Inhabitants....Animals in the Provinces of Huailas,
Caxatambo, Conchucos, and Huamalies....Pagi or Puma....Ucumari....
Viscacha....Comadreja....Ardillas....Gato Montes....Alco....Llama
....Paco....Huanaco....Vicuña....Mulita....Birds....Condor....
Vegetable Productions....Mineral ditto....Antiquities....Diseases
and Remedies....Hydrophobia.
During my stay in Huamalies, the news of the invasion of the province of
La Plata, by the English, arrived; this induced me to return to Lima,
instead of travelling through the country to the northward, because I
knew that in the capital I should be less suspected by the government,
than by the petty governors and magistrates in the inland towns. Before
I quit the subject of the foregoing chapter I shall however make a few
general observations.
The total absence of inns, or any similar establishment on the roads, or
in the towns and villages, would present to an English traveller an
almost insurmountable obstacle; and as this country is now (1824) likely
to be frequented by many of my countrymen, I think it will not be
uninteresting to those who may stand in need of some information, nor
unentertaining to the public at large, if I give a concise description
of the general mode of travelling in Peru.
If a resident in Lima wish to go to any considerable distance from the
capital, the best plan he can pursue is to inquire at the tambos for
_requas_, mules, which are from the country he intends to visit, and
agree with the muleteers or carriers for the number of mules he may
want. With an eye to comfort, the traveller must provide himself with a
mattress, bedding, and an almaufres, leather bag, already described,
sufficiently large to hold, besides the bed, his wearing apparel,
because the cargo would be otherwise too light.
I always formed another load with a trunk, containing linen, books, and
writing materials; also a canteen, holding two or three small pans, oil,
vinegar, salt, spices, sugar, coffee, tea, knives and forks, spoons,
&c., and thus equipped, having a good poncho, saddle, _al uso del pais_,
bridle and spurs, a traveller has little to apprehend from the want of
inns. The plan I usually followed was, to go to one of the principal
houses in the town or village, and to ask if I could remain there during
my stay in that place; this request was never denied me, and nine times
out of ten I have had nothing to pay, with the addition, perhaps, of
letters of recommendation, or kind messages, to persons residing in the
town or village to which I was going. If it happened to be from one cura
to another, I was not the less pleased, because their society in such
places is generally the best, and their fare is certainly not the worst.
It is much to be feared, that the political changes likely to take place
in South America will be inimical to the general feeling of hospitality
in the inhabitants; civilization will teach them refinements superior to
such barbarous practices.
The locality of Huaras, as I have already observed, is admirably well
calculated for mercantile speculations: this town might constitute the
general mart for the sale of European manufactured goods, as well as for
the purchase of the produce of the provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo,
Conchucos, Huamalies, Patas, and part of Huamachucos. Among European
saleable manufactures may be counted broad cloths, coarse woollen
cloths, both single and double widths; linens, such as common Irish, or
imitation of German platillas and sheeting; fine duck for trowsers, and
some lawn resembling French linen, _estopillas_; narrow ribbons from
half an inch to an inch broad; some silks and velvets; cottons of all
descriptions, both white and coloured, particularly if an imitation of
the tocuyos were sent; these are yard-wide unbleached cottons, having
the thread more twisted than is generally practised, and velveteens,
plain and corded; broad flannels, green, red yellow and brown; hosiery,
both cotton and woollen; cutlery, bone-hafted knives with points are in
considerable use, and large common scissors for sheep-shearing, as the
natives are unacquainted with the kind of shears used in England;
hardware, such as pots and pans; these last ought not to be
flat-bottomed, but deeper in the middle than along the sides, with two
small rings instead of a handle; braseros from eight to twenty-four
inches diameter, and from three to five inches deep, according to the
size, with three feet, and two large rings to carry them with; those
used in the country, and their use is universal, are of copper,
principally manufactured at Lambayeque, but they are very clumsily
wrought, and sell very high; substitutes of iron and brass would find an
extensive sale; but they ought to be as light as is possible; copper and
bell-metal pans, holding from two to thirty gallons each, are articles
in great demand; chocolate pots of brass, copper, or iron, holding from
one to three quarts, would also find an extensive sale; paper of a
quality similar to the Spanish paper has a considerable consumption, as
it is used for making segars; but wove paper is always rejected, because
its softness induces the natives to suppose that it is made of cotton,
the smoke of which they consider injurious.
The produce of these provinces is, for the Lima market, cattle, sugar,
_bayetones_, _tocuyos_, coarse stockings, ponchos, bordillos, jerga,
sweetmeats, tobacco, some timber for particular uses, cheese, which is
of an excellent quality, butter, and other minor articles; for
exportation, bark (cinchona) of Arancay, wool, hides, and the precious
metals.
The inhabitants of these provinces are industrious, and generally
speaking kind and hospitable; among the indians poverty is very visible,
and the shyness which they show to white people who arrive at their
huts, _ranchos_, may be attributed to several causes--the universal
oppression which they experience from the whites--their abject state in
society--their incapacity of affording any accommodation to
travellers--and their ignorance of the Spanish language:--all these
contribute in some degree to render the accusation of invincible
stupidity, as Ulloa says, apparently true; but if an indian is in what
may be termed easy circumstances, though, alas! this very rarely occurs,
he is equally kind, generous, and hospitable with the creoles or
Spaniards.
Among the animals indigenous to the new world, the lion, so called by
the Spaniards, by the Peruvians _pagi_, and by some others the _puma_,
is found in the mountainous parts of the aforementioned provinces. I
have already, when speaking of the province of Conception, given a
description of this animal, together with the depredations it commits,
and the manner of killing it. The habits of the puma in Peru are similar
to those of the same animal in Chile; any further description therefore
becomes unnecessary.
The name of puma was given by the ancient Peruvians to some of their
most illustrious families, whose descendants are still called Caciques;
it seems as if there were two orders of distinction among them, bearing
the titles of the particular attributes of the puma and the condor. Of
these families the unfortunate Puma-cagua, or lord of the brave lion,
was a Cacique; Colqui-puma, lord of the silver lion, is another; of the
condor here are the families of Apu-cuntur, the great condor,
Cuntur-pusac, of eight condors, and Condor-canqui, condor by excellency,
or master of the order; this last family resides in the province of
Caxatambo.
The _oso_, or _ucumari_, so called by the indians, is a black bear,
which frequents the mountainous parts of these districts. I never saw
but one domesticated; it stood two feet five inches high, and was four
feet nine inches long, the forehead flat, muzzle yellowish, two fawn
coloured spots above the eyes, and a larger one on the breast; the fur
black, long, and smooth; the small teeth placed behind the canine teeth.
The indians are more afraid of this animal than they are of the puma,
and relate many extraordinary tales about its ferocity; however I never
knew an individual who had ever seen it attack a human being, nor could
I obtain any correct account of a person being attacked by it. The
natives hunt the ucumari with the same dogs with which they chase the
puma, and the stuffed skins of these animals often adorn the corridors
of the farm houses; the indians eat the flesh of the puma--that of the
bear I have tasted, and found it very delicate. The bear usually feeds
on wild fruits and roots, and is destructive to the crops of potatoes
and maize. It seldom leaves the mountainous parts of the country, and
when chased will roll itself down the sides of the steepest mountains to
elude its pursuers.
The _viscacha_ inhabits the higher ranges of the mountains, and feeds
principally on the moss which is nearest to perpetual snow: it is easily
domesticated, and the heat of the valleys does not seem prejudicial to
its health. This animal very much resembles a hare in its shape, but it
has a bushy tail as long as that of a cat; the body is covered with very
soft hair of a white and ash colour, which is as soft as silk; it was
formerly spun by the indians, and made into cloth for the use of the
Incas: thus it was the royal ermine of Peru. The flesh of the animal is
very savoury, and is considered a great delicacy.
The _comadreja_, weasel, is found in different parts of these provinces;
it is about nine inches long, not including the tail, which is long and
well covered with hair; the body is round and very slender, covered with
short softish fur, of a pale yellow colour, except under the throat and
on the breast, where it is white; its legs are short and thick, and its
toes armed with sharp claws. This animal is remarkably active, runs very
fast, and seems almost to fly when it jumps; it is very destructive to
poultry, which it kills, and sucks the blood; it is also a constant
customer for eggs. When the natives kill one, which but seldom happens,
they preserve the skin whole, and use it for a purse.
The _ardillas_, red squirrels, have a red stripe along the back; their
sides are grey, inclining to white near the belly, which is itself
beautifully white. This species is often found in the colder regions of
these provinces: it feeds on the seeds, and sometimes on the buds of the
molle and espino, called here _huarango_; it forms its habitation in a
hole among the rocks, which it furnishes with leaves, moss, and wool.
The grey squirrel is larger than the red; some of this species are
almost black, which the natives fancy are young ones, calling the
lighter coloured _canosos_, grey haired. These generally choose the
valleys or warm climates, and make their nests in hollow trees; they are
very destructive to _mani_, or ground nuts, plunder the plantations and
gardens of them, and carry their booty to their nests. They sometimes go
in bodies on marauding excursions, and if a river oppose their progress,
they embark on pieces of wood or the bark of trees, and cross it. I have
been assured at Pichiusa, that if the current drifts them down the
river, they will dip their tails in the water, so as to form a rudder,
and thus steer their fragile flotillas to the opposite shore.
The mountain cat, _gato montes_, is found in the province of Huamalies,
in the woods bordering on the Marañon; it is about three and a half feet
long, the skin is of a dirty yellow colour, with black spots and
stripes; the male has a black stripe running from between the ears along
the back. This small tiger is extremely beautiful, but it is very
savage; however it never attacks a man, and seldom molests the horses or
horned cattle; but it sometimes leaves the woods, and visits the farms
on the mountains in search of sheep and goats. The opossum, called by
the natives _muca muca_, and a species of armadillo, called _mulita_,
from the length of its ears, are found in the valleys; also a field rat
of a dark brown colour, having the tail rather club-shaped and somewhat
flattened: the flesh is considered very delicate eating.
The _alco_ is the constant companion of the indians: it is a dog of a
middling stature, of a black colour, the body covered with woolly hair,
except on the breast and tail, where it is stiff and straight. They bark
on the approach of any noise, and will defend their charge, whether it
be the horse or cattle, against men or beasts of prey. Two kinds of
these dogs are known here, the one just mentioned, and another smaller
one, about the size of a lap dog, which the indians frequently carry.
They seldom or never bark, which circumstance perhaps gave rise to the
origin of the assertion, that "the dogs of South America do not bark."
The large alco is called _thegua_ in Chile, and the small one _kiltho_.
Among the indigenous quadrupeds of Peru, the species of camel, by the
Spaniards called _carneros de la tierra_, demand the attention of a
traveller. These animals in many respects resemble the camel of the old
continent, but differ from them materially in others. They are less in
size, but of a more elegant form; they have a small head without horns,
but a large tuft of hair adorns the forehead; a very long, slender neck,
well proportioned ears, large round full black eyes, a short muzzle, the
upper lip more or less cleft; the body is handsomely turned, the legs
long and rather slender, the feet bipartite; the covering of the body is
a mixture of hair and wool, in different proportions, according to the
kind of animals.
The lower jaw of each is furnished with six incisors, two canine teeth
and several grinders; the upper jaw with grinders only. Under the skin
the body is covered with fat, somewhat like the hog and the polar
animals, intended by nature to preserve a necessary degree of warmth,
because these animals inhabit the cold regions of the Cordillera. They
are all ruminating, and have four ventricles; the second, which is
composed of two, contains a number of cavities calculated for a deposit
of water. The animals are retromingents; the time of gestation is about
twenty-two weeks, and the female seldom brings forth more than one,
which she suckles, having two teats and an abundance of milk. They have
a callous covering on the breast or sternum, on which they fall, when
reclining, either to sleep or to receive a burden; this substance
appears to be destined to defend the part against any injurious
contusion among the rocks; when sleeping they have their legs completely
folded under the belly, and they rest on the breast. Their only means of
defence is an ejection of viscous matter from the mouth, which some
persons pretend acts as a caustic, producing small pimples, and a
species of psora, but this is false.
The varieties are the llama, paco, or alpaca, guanaco, and vicuña, or
vicugna. The size of a full-grown llama is as follows:--
Ft. In.
Height from the bottom of the foot to top of the shoulders 5 5
From the first vertebre in the neck to the point of the os sacro 6 5
From the point of the upper lip to that of the cranium 1 1
From the first vertebre of the neck to the last 2 5
Height from the base of the foot to the spine of the os sacro 3 6
Length of the callosity on the sternum 0 7
Breadth of ditto 0 1
Thickness of ditto 0 0½
Length of the penis 1 3
The llama is by far the handsomest and most majestic animal of the
four; in its portly appearance it is somewhat like a stag, but the
gracefulness of its swan-like neck, its small head, and mild countenance
add much to its beauty. The colour of the llama is generally a pale
bright brown, but some are nearly white, others black, and others
mottled. The wool is coarse, but very abundant on the body, and
precludes the necessity of using pack-saddles. Nothing can exceed the
beauty of a drove of these animals, as they march along with their
cargoes on their backs, each being about a hundred pounds weight,
following each other in the most orderly manner, equal to a file of
soldiers, headed by one with a tastefully ornamented halter on his head,
covered with small hawks' bells, and a small streamer on his head: thus
they cross the snow-covered tops of the Cordillera, or defile along the
sides of the mountains. This sight is peculiarly interesting to a
stranger, and has in it what may be justly considered as something
characteristic of the country, where the mountainous tracts are ill
calculated for the service of horses or even mules. Indeed, the animal
itself seems to partake of the docility of its driver; it needs no whip
nor spur to urge it onward; but calmly paces on to its destination. Its
only means of defence, as before mentioned, is to spit in the face of
its oppressor; if too heavily laden with what it kneeled to receive, it
will refuse to rise until relieved of part of its load.
The paco or alpaca of Peru is the chilihueque of Chile: it differs
considerably from the llama--its head is rounder, its legs are shorter
and thicker, and the body more plump; the skin is of a darker colour,
and the hair much longer and softer: like the llama it is used as a
beast of burden, kneels to receive it, and lies down if it be too heavy.
The paco bears more resemblance to a sheep than to a stag, and from its
great apparent strength seems better calculated to be used as a beast of
burden than the llama; but it is not so docile and tractable, it will
not follow the captain or leader, but generally requires to be led with
a string, passed through a small aperture made in the ear;--nor is it
more sure-footed on the ridges of the mountains. The pacos vary in
colour more than the llamas.
The names of these two kinds are derived from alppaco--beast of the
country; and llamscani--that of burden, which the Spaniards translated
into carnero, sheep. It appears both from the names of these two
varieties, as well as from Garcilaso, Acosta, Sandoval, and other
Spanish writers, that they were domesticated before the arrival of the
Spaniards, yet the breeds have never been mixed, nor will they mingle,
for a very visible aversion exists between them, which, with the
striking difference in their construction and appearance, induces me to
believe them to be different species. They are certainly more alike than
the vicuña and the huanaco, or to either of those; so that Buffon and
Linnæus were wide of the truth when they asserted, that the llama and
the vicuña were of the same species, and equally so with respect to the
paco and the huanaco.
The shape of the huanaco is very different from that of the paco--the
back of this is straight, while that of the former is hunched or
arched--the one being proper for a beast of burden, the other quite
improper. The height of the huanaco, from the fore foot to the tip of
the shoulder, is seven inches less than from the bottom of the hind feet
to the top of the rump or os sacro, on which account, when pursued it
immediately descends the mountains, leaping like the buck or the deer;
whereas, the other three species always endeavour to ascend the
mountains to escape the pursuit. The huanacos are of a dark brown
colour, inclining to white under the belly, where the hair is coarse
and shaggy. The forehead is rounder than that of the paco, the nose more
pointed and black, the ears straight like those of a horse, the tail is
short, and turned back like that of the stag. This species seems more
inclined to frequent warmer regions than the other three, and leaves the
mountains for the valleys, particularly in the winter season. The
huanaco is naturally gentle, and easily domesticated; but this is rarely
attempted, for in such a state it is of very little use to its owner.
The vicuña is the smallest species; it is about the size of a goat, the
back less arched than the huanaco's, the neck slender, and about twenty
inches long. The body is covered with a remarkably fine soft wool, of a
pale brown colour, which is sometimes woven; it makes an exceedingly
fine cloth, but it can only be used in its native colour, or when dyed
darker: very fine hats are also manufactured of it in Lima and other
places. The vicuña seems to abound most in the Cordilleras, in about
eighteen degrees south latitude.
The llama is now never found in a wild state, and the paco very seldom;
the huanaco is rarely domesticated, and the vicuña scarcely ever, owing
partly to its natural timidity, and to the effect which a warm climate
has on it, often producing a kind of mange, of which the animal dies. As
already mentioned, the huanaco leaves the cold regions during the
winter, but the vicuña never, always preferring to live among the snow
and the ice. All the four species like best to feed on the _ichu_ that
grows at the elevation of fourteen thousand feet above the level of the
sea, even in eighteen degrees of south latitude. The huanaco is caught
with dogs and the laso, or with a sling; this is made of a strip of
leather five or six feet long, to each end of which a stone weighing
about two pounds is fastened; the huntsman takes one of these stones in
his hand, and whirls the other round his head, then throws it at the
legs of the huanaco he has singled out, which becoming entangled with
the rope, the animal falls. The vicuñas being remarkably timid, fly to
the mountains, and it becomes impossible to follow them; so that for the
purpose of catching them several persons assemble, and take the side of
a mountain above the place where the vicuñas are seen feeding, and then
descending, drive them into a ravine, where they have previously
stretched a line with some rags tied to it; on approaching this the
affrighted animals collect into a cluster, and are generally all caught
and killed for the sake of their wool; this is not shorn; but the skins
are taken off, and sent to market.
The meat of the llama and alpaca is often jerked and sold; but it is
coarse and dry; that of the young huanaco, however, is very good, and
that of the vicuña is equal to the finest venison.
The wool of the llama and the huanaco is only applicable to very
ordinary purposes; but that of the paco is manufactured into the most
beautiful blankets, which are as soft as silk--that of the vicuña is
used as already mentioned.
The _mulita_ and _quiriquincho_ are caught in the temperate and hot
valleys of Huamalies; the former is the eight-banded armadillo; it is
called mulita, or little mule, on account of its long ears, which
resemble those of that animal; this species is about eight inches long.
The quiriquincho is sometimes called _bolo_; it is the eighteen-banded
armadillo, and is about thirteen inches long from the snout to the end
of the tail. The bands are composed of a shell or shells lying
transversely on the upper part of the body, forming a kind of cuirass,
of a greyish or lead colour; the bottom part of the body is also covered
with a shell, and united at the sides with the upper shell like those
of the tortoise; they have four feet, short legs, a pointed snout, like
that of the hog, and a tail covered with scales, like that of the lizard
tribe. They form holes in the ground, in which they bring forth their
young, three or four every month, and feed them on fruits and
vegetables. When pursued, if on the mountains, they roll themselves up
and fall down the precipices, thus eluding their pursuers; but on the
plains they are easily caught, although they run very fast, and always
in a straight line; because their armour does not allow them to turn
round, except in a circular manner. When taken out of the shell their
flesh is very white, with a layer of fat similar to that of a hog. The
natives dress them in a curious manner; they separate the two shells,
clean the meat and season it with capsicum, salt, onions, and herbs,
place it in the upper shell, and cover it with the underneath one; they
then stew it in an oven, and it is certainly most delicious eating. The
children often twist the intestines into strings, and form small guitars
of the shells.
The birds in these provinces consist of several species of eagles,
hawks, falcons, and kites; the gallinaso, several kinds of wild pigeons,
finches, a kind of thrush, blackbirds, and on the borders of the Marañon
a great variety of parrots, but these never pass the mountains into the
valleys or ravines. The _picaflor_, humming bird, is found in all the
warm climates of these districts. I have counted five varieties, and
have often caught them with my hat, when the fairy-like creatures have
been employed in sipping the honey of the plantain flower.
The majestic condor holds his court in the mountainous parts of South
America, and makes excursions in search of food to the valleys and the
coast. Three varieties inhabit these provinces, the largest is called
moro moro; the ruff which encircles the neck and back is of a dark grey
colour; the latter is produced from some feathers in the wings of this
colour, which when folded fall on the back, and form what the natives
call the cloak; but the short feathers on the back as well as the rest
of the body are of a deep black colour. The male of this species is
distinguished from the female by a large crest on the head like a crown;
the neck being covered with short hairs appears naked, of a dark blue
colour; the skin forms folds or curls round the neck of the bird, at the
bottom of which is a ruff of grey feathers, each about ten inches long
and rather curled. This bird measures from thirteen to fifteen feet from
the tip of one wing to the tip of the other.
The second variety has the ruff and cloak of a light brown or pale
coffee colour; it measures from eleven to thirteen feet; the third has
the ruff and cloak white, and measures from nine to eleven feet; this
variety abounds most, and is the most elegant.
Dr. Unanue says, that in a dissection of this bird he found no vessel of
communication between the lungs and the spongy substance of the
clavicles; and he affirms that there is no communication between the
stomach and the trachea; that the superior cavity of the body is lined
with a delicate transparent pleura, divided into several small cells;
that the lungs descend to the lower cavity of the body, and the
posterior part of them adhere to the spine and ribs, and that these are
perforated at the union, which perforation communicates with the spongy
body in the inside of them. The texture of the lungs is very porous, and
when inflated by blowing through the trachea, a quantity of air escapes,
and fills the large and small apertures that surround them, as well as
those of the sternum and ribs.
From this construction, it would appear, that the bird is endowed with
the powers of forming a vacuum in a considerable portion of the body, to
assist in rendering the whole lighter, and thus to enable it to soar to
the enormous height of nineteen thousand feet, where the atmosphere is
of much less density than at the earth's surface.
The beak of the moro moro is four inches long, very thick, and curved;
black at its base, and white towards the point. The thigh is ten inches
and a half long, the leg only six inches; the foot is furnished with
four strong toes; the middle toe, which is almost six inches, is
terminated with a whitish curved talon, two inches long; the two lateral
toes are not so long; and the three have each three joints; the hind toe
is two inches long, the nail one, and this toe has only one joint. The
tail is entire, but small in proportion to the size of the bird. The
large quills in the wings are commonly two feet nine inches long, and
the barrel more than three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The three
varieties all build their nests on the most inaccessible cliffs, and lay
two large white eggs.
The condors feed either on carcases, or on animals which they themselves
kill; lambs and kids always require the care of the shepherd or the dog;
and calves, if at a distance from the cows, frequently become their
prey. They generally make their first attack on the head, and tear out
the eyes. I once saw some condors attack a cow which had sunk into a
quagmire and could not extricate herself; the first attack of these
animals was on the anus, whence they drew out the intestines, and thus
killed the animal, without regarding the noise that we made, as if
sensible that we should not venture to rescue her from the mire. They
are so voracious, and will feed to such a degree, that they cannot rise
from the ground, but run in search of an eminence whence they can throw
themselves on the wing. They soar aloft and swim in the air without any
motion of the wings being visible.
The vegetable productions are wheat, barley, maize, pease, beans,
lentils, quinua, potatoes, camotes, yucas, arracachas, ocas, radishes,
turnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces, mangle wurzle, beet, apples,
pears, guinds, peaches, almonds, apricots, grapes, melons, pine-apples,
plantains, bananas, and several other equinoctial fruits; the woods are
molle, cedar, huarango, alerce, and in the forests bordering on the
Marañon cascol, caoba, nasareno, with many other varieties, and
excellent cinchona bark near to Arancay.
The mineral productions are gold, silver, mercury, tin, iron, coal,
sulphur, ætites, and several kinds of marble; but as no quarries have
been wrought, and only some few samples are found in the possession of
different persons at Huaras, Corongos, and in that of various parochial
curates, the extent of the veins remains unknown, as well as the
peculiar qualities of the stone. Many other mineral productions, unknown
at present, will undoubtedly become objects of importance to the
geologist, mineralogist, and chemist, now that the revolution has
secured the independence of the country, and scientific individuals may
visit it, which was not the case when the Spanish colonial laws were in
force. To the botanist and florist the same opportunity presents itself,
and South America may almost as justly be termed a new world, as it was
when discovered by the indefatigable, ill-rewarded Columbus.
The remains of antiquity in any country attract the notice of a
traveller; different individuals view them through different mediums,
but all observe them in some light or other; some for their beauty and
symmetry, as monuments of extraordinary genius and labour; others as
merely picturesque, romantic ornaments in the prospect, relieving the
dreary, or enlivening the interesting scenery; others search for
combinations of features, and endeavour to account for the origin in the
imitations; and others merely wonder how and for what purpose such
immense labour was undertaken. Notwithstanding this diversity of tastes,
all examine, and each in his particular province admires; but alas!
though philosophical researches are of the highest importance to
history, yet in South America the monuments which present themselves
only serve to evince the intolerant spirit of the European nation which
invaded this part of the new world: a people who demolished the temples,
labouring under the influence of superstition; and destroyed the palaces
and other public buildings under the influence of cupidity, in search of
hidden treasure; and this with such wanton barbarity, that only vestiges
remain to shew where the works of nations and of ages once stood--to
exact the tear of the surviving native, the sigh of the sympathizing
visitor, and to reproach the Spaniard and the creole with the lawless
havoc of their forefathers.
The remains of the Incas' road, or the military causeway, which Humboldt
says "may be compared to the finest Roman roads I have seen in Italy,
France or Spain," passes through Huamalies alto, and in some places is
perfectly straight for more than half a league; it is generally lined
with freestone, and evinces the labour of an industrious obedient
people, and is scarcely to be equalled except by the Chinese wall;
especially if we consider the extent of it, from Cusco to Quito, which
is a distance of not less than seven hundred leagues. It was most
probably built at different periods, by the orders of the different
reigning Incas, as they enlarged their conquests; and the continuation
might possibly be the first tax or duty imposed on the conquered
nations. Some parts of this road are at the astonishing elevation of
twelve thousand four hundred and seventy-five feet above the level of
the sea; indeed it is almost every where so situated, that the marches
of the army, or the Inca on his passage, might not suffer from the hot
climates in the valleys.
Near to the village of Baños in Huamalies is a spring of hot water,
where some very capacious baths were built by the Incas, similar to
those at Caxamarca, but more extensive. The ruins of a large building,
called the palace of the Inca, are found at a short distance from the
baths; it was built of stone, and is like those of Cañar and Callo, in
the province of Quito. The situation is beautifully romantic; it is the
summit of a mountain, and commands an extensive prospect of the river
Marañon, the woods and forests to the eastward, and the mountains and
valleys to the westward. The building can only be traced by the
foundations and fragments of walls, all of stone, so exactly cut, or
perhaps ground by rubbing the sides together, that the interstices are
scarcely perceptible. It contained several enclosures, which were
probably a kind of barracks for the army. Near to the palace are the
ruins of a temple, of a circular form, and on the top of two mountains,
one on each side of the river, are the remains of two fortresses, the
sides of the mountains being divided into a sort of galleries one above
another; in some parts these are formed by building breastworks, and in
others they are cut out of the solid rock, the breastwork being left in
the solid stone. The indians assert, that a subterraneous passage under
the river opened a communication between the two fortresses; and however
improbable the execution of such a work may appear to modern architects,
yet the possibility and almost the proof exists in the very astonishing
works of labour and art executed by the Peruvians.
The diseases most prevalent in these provinces are, pulmonic
inflammations, inflammatory fevers, _bicho_, and _pasmo_. The indians
have applied the name _dolor de costado_, pain in the side, to the
pleurisy. When under the direction of a regular practitioner, the
Spanish method of curing is by bathing the affected part with oil, and
taking expectorants; but the method observed by the indians accords much
better with the practice in England. They scarify the part with a sharp
knife, and if the flow of blood be not sufficiently abundant, a person
applies his mouth to the incisions and extracts the blood, this
answering all the purposes of cupping. Some whip the side affected with
nettles, and then bathe it with hot vinegar, applying afterwards a
cataplasm of garlic, onions, and the flour of beans.
The inflammatory fever called _tabardillo_ is common in the hot as well
as cold climates. The curative method adopted by the indians may, in its
prognostic, be considered an improvement on the cold affusion. Some clay
is procured, and mixed with water until it acquire the consistency of
batter, the patient is smeared all over his body with it; after an hour
or two an examination takes place, and if the clay has become parched,
and is peeled off, death is considered to be the inevitable result; but
if it be cracked, and the pieces adhere to the body, a favourable result
is expected. This is most probably the fruit of observation, as I
believe the science of medicine among such people generally is; but the
effect of the application in the latter case is a copious perspiration,
which is absorbed by the clay, by which an adhesion to the cutis takes
place, and prevents it from falling off; thus the experiment, if not at
first founded on scientific principles, has been undoubtedly supported
by practical facts.
The _bicho_ is an endemical disease, known only in the hot valleys; it
is an ulcer of a gangrenous tendency in the colon, and if not attended
to in time is generally mortal. The indians use very stiptic injections,
and believe the origin to be caused by a grub, _bicho_. Those who reside
in cold climates, and when in the valleys eat abundance of fruit, are
most subject to this disease.
The _pasmo_ is generally brought on by wetting a wound, or ulcer, with
cold water; it is particularly prevalent in the hot climates of the
valleys; it is a general nervous convulsion; the first effects are a
tetanus, after which the most excruciating pains afflict the patient,
until relieved by death, for no remedy has as yet been found effectual.
The bronchocele, or goitres, is common in some parts of these provinces,
particularly in the neighbourhood of Huacaibamba; it is a disagreeable
affliction without any known antidote.
The syphilis, as I have before observed, is extremely virulent in the
cold climates of the interior; the usual remedies applied are
sarsaparilla, guaiacum, and sassafras, but very seldom mercury, owing to
the dread that the natives have of its administration.
Madness in dogs was unknown in America until the year 1803, when it made
its appearance along the coast between Paita and Lima; in 1807 many were
affected with it in Lima, to the southward as far as Arica, and
Arequipa, and to the northward of Lima in the valleys of the interior.
Dr. Unanue says, "after having collected all the data, and having
consulted those of the faculty, and other intelligent persons who had
witnessed the effects, I have deduced,
"Firstly--That this spontaneous madness originated in the excessive
increase of heat in 1803 and 1804, which caused almost all kinds of
animals to throw themselves into the pits and lakes to refresh
themselves.
"Secondly--That this disease attacked indiscriminately all kinds of
quadrupeds, some of which, in the most furious manner, tore the flesh
from their bones with their teeth: several men were also affected with
symptoms of hydrophobia without having been bitten by any animal.
"Thirdly--It was most common among dogs; but some, although apparently
affected, caused no symptoms in their bite except the ordinary ones; but
from the bite of others on their own species, other quadrupeds, and men,
the most dreadful symptoms of hydrophobia were propagated. On one of the
plantations an overseer distributed among the slaves the meat of several
animals which had died mad, believing that the meat was not contagious;
but several of the negroes who ate of it died in a state of madness.
"Fourthly--In the cities of Ica and Arequipa the greatest number of
persons died from the bite of mad dogs. At Ica one dog bit fourteen
individuals in one night. Notwithstanding the advice of the surgeon
Estrada, they all refused medical assistance except two--the remaining
twelve died. The method of cure adopted was, a caustic applied to the
part affected, suppuration was promoted, and mercurial unctions were
applied until a copious salivation was established. Professor Estrada
says, that forty-two persons died at Ica, at different epochs from
twelve to ninety days after they were bit. The symptoms were
convulsions, oppression in the chest, languor, difficult respiration,
horror at the sight of liquids or any shining substance, atrabilious
vomit, and great fury against the nurses. After the first appearance of
these symptoms, death ensued within about five days."