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[Illustration: YUMBO INDIAN. INDIAN OF THE COLORADS.]
A
HISTORICAL
AND
DESCRIPTIVE NARRATIVE
OF
TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCE
IN
SOUTH AMERICA,
_IN THREE VOLUMES_;
CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA;
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS.
BY W. B. STEVENSON,
FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO
COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE
SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,--HIS EXCELLENCY
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO.
CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH.
MDCCCXXV.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
PAGE
CHAP. I.--Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First Wheat in
Peru...._Tapiales_, Fences....Trees, Shrubs,
and Plants....Fruit....Animals....Birds....Fish....Appearance of
the Villages...._Balsas_....Indian Feast....Indian
Burial....Paramonga....Palace of Fortalice 1
CHAP. II.--Visit to Caxatambo....Roads....Manner of Travelling
....Village of Ocros....Cura of Ditto....Indians....Road to
Chiquian....Town of Chiquian....Crimes....Mining Laws....Method
of working the Ores....Frauds in _Plata Pina_...._Taonas_ and
_Ingenios_....Caxatambo...._Repartimientos_....Manufactures....
Inhabitants....Amusements....Road from Caxatambo, _Cuesta_....Farm
House and Family....Town of Huaras....Productions of Huailas....
Manufactures of Ditto....Huaras, excellent Mercantile Situation
....Province of Conchucos....Produce, &c....Mines....Oca....
Medicinal Plants....Character of Inhabitants....Procession of
St. Peter....Localities in the Province....Enter Huamalies....
Productions...._Coca_...._Charquis_ Cinchona....Mines....Eagle
Stones....Fruits...._Mulitas_ and _Quiriquineihos_....Character
of Inhabitants....Death of the Inca represented....Observations 24
CHAP. III.--General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the
different Provinces....British Manufactures fit for the last
Provinces visited....General Character of the Inhabitants....
Animals in the Provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, Conchucos, and
Huamalies....Pagi or Puma....Ucumari....Viscacha....Comadreja
....Ardillas....Gato Montes....Alco....Llama.... Paco....Huanaco
....Vicuna....Mulita....Birds....Condor....Vegetable Productions
....Mineral Ditto....Antiquities....Diseases and Remedies....
Hydrophobia 75
CHAP. IV.--Travels to the North of Lima....Village of Pativilca
....Of Huarmey....Of Casma....Cotton Mill....Santa....River
Santa....Nepena....Farm of Motocachi....Vineyard....Port of
Santa...._Tambo de Chao_....Viru....Truxillo....Itinerary
between Lima and Truxillo....Description of Truxillo....Building
....Inhabitants....Climate....Commerce....Jurisdiction....Arms
....Plain _de Chimu_...._Huaca de Toledo_....Tradition of....
Huanchaco Port....Valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and Viru....
Productions....Road to Caxamarca....Contumasa....Magdalena....Gold
Mines....View of Caxamarca....Origin of Name of....Description
of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Arts and Manufactures
of....Visit to San Pablo....Market of Caxamarca....Trade of....Hot
Baths....Description of 107
CHAP. V.--Historical Sketch of Caxamarca, Huaina Capac, Huascar
Inca, and Atahualpa....Arrival of Pizarro at Tumpis....At
Caxamarca....Spanish Embassy....Harangue of Soto....Answer of
Atahualpa....Visit of Atahualpa to Pizarro....Discourse of Friar
Vicente Valverde, to Atahualpa....Answer of Atahualpa....
Imprisonment of....Offered Ransom of....Cause of the Jealousy of
Pizarro....Arrivals of Treasure....Accusation, for the Trial of
Atahualpa....Sentence, Baptism, Execution, and Burial of
....Interesting Remains in Caxamarca 142
CHAP. VI.--Province of Caxamarca....Manufactures, Mines....Village
de Jesus....Hawking....Farm of Lagunilla....Inga Tambo....Village
of San Marcos....Feast....Wedding....Village of Ichocan....Mine
of Gualgayoc....Return to the Coast....Village of Chocope....Of
San Pedro....Of Las Lagunas....Of Monsefu....Town of Lambayeque
....Inhabitants, Buildings, New Altar....Manufactures, Soap,
Cordovans, Cotton Goods, Sweetmeats....Fruits, Grain, Pulse
....Vegetables....Market...._Algarroba_, Carob Tree....Village
of Eten....Of Morrope...._Simarones_....Desert of Sechura....Town
of Sechura....City of Piura....Inhabitants, Buildings....Mules
....Manufactures....Climate....Effect on Syphilis....Commerce....
Port of Paita....Excellent Situation for an Astronomical
Observatory 166
CHAP. VII.--Leave Lima for Guayaquil...._Amortajado_....Puna
....Arrival of the Spaniards, and Conquest of....Village of
....Inhabitants....Passage up the River Guayaquil...._Punta de
Arena_....Guayaquil....Foundation and Description of....Buildings
....Inhabitants....Amusements....Market....Fruit....Climate....
Insects and Reptiles....Dock Yard....Project of Sawing Mills....
Balsa, Description of....Navigation of....Canoes....Merchants
of Guayaquil 199
CHAP. VIII.--Productions of the Province of Guayaquil....Cocoa
....Cultivation....Harvest....Tobacco....Timber....Salt....Cattle
....Minor Articles of Trade...._Turbines_ found at Santa Elena
....Large Bones, &c....Animals, _Perico_, _Ligero_....Monkeys
...._Iguanas_....Toucanes...._Trompeteros_....Snakes....
Curiquinqui, Snake-eater...._Huaco_, Antidote for the Bite of
Snakes...._Lagartos_, Alligators, Description of....Methods of
Killing....Fishermen....Mineral Productions 227
CHAP. IX.--Journey from Guayaquil to Quito....Babaoyo....Road to
Chimbo...._Cuesta de San Antonio_....Arrival at Huaranda....
Triumphal Arch and Harangue....Description of Huaranda and
Province of Chimbo....Chimboraso....Accident at la Ensillada
....Road to San Juan...._Obrage_ of Indians....Arrival at
Riobamba....Description of....Remains of Old Riobamba....Visit
to an old Cacique....Province of Riobamba....Road to Ambato
....Description of....Produce....Arrival of Tacunga....Description
of....Earthquakes at....Ruins of Callo....Provincial Produce
....Arrival at Chisinchi, Ensillada, and Quito....Remarks 257
CHAP. X.--Quito, Foundation and Situation....Plasa Mayor....
President's Palace, Bishop's Palace and Cathedral....Parishes
....Convents and Public Buildings....Jesuit's College....Convent
of San Francisco....San Diego....Santa Prisca....Santa Clara
....University....College of San Luis....Of San Fernando....
Houses....Government....Nobility....Population....White
Creoles....Occupation and Education....Character of....Mestisos
Persons, Character, Employment....Dress of Creoles....Of
Mestisos....Of Indians....Diversions, Bull-fight and Masquerade
....Dancing....Music....Religious Procession....Market, Meat,
Fruit and Vegetables....Spirituous Liquors....Ices, Confectionary
....Cheese....Trade and Commerce 279
CHAP. XI.--Visit of the Academicians to Quito in 1736....
Inscription left by....Climate of Quito....View of Mountains at
....Description of Chimboraso....Of Cayambe-urcu....Of Antisana
....Of Cotopaxi....Of Pichincha....Of El Altar....Description of
the fertility of the Valleys....Mines....Ruins of Temples, Palaces,
and Fortified Places....Account of the Indians....Of Commerce 320
CHAP. XII.--Villa of Ibarra, Description....Villa of Otavala,
Description....Lakes San Pablo and Cuicocha....Visit to the River
Mapo....Gold Mines on the Banks of....Indians pay their Tribute in
Gold....Bæza, the Capital of the District....Description of the
Inhabitants, &c....Commissioned by the Government to explore a
Road from the Capital to the nearest Point of the Coast....
Maldonado's Road....Leave Quito....Cross the Skirts of Pichincha,
arrive at the River Piti....Description of the Country....
Description of Piti....Proceed to Esmeraldas....Description of
the River of Jaguar....Houses, Plantations, Cattle....Method of
Distilling Rum....Food of the Inhabitants...._Saino_ Tatabra,
and _Aguti_, or Huatus....Monkey and Charapa....Method of
Killing Game with the _Sorbetana_ and Poisoned _Pua_ 346
CHAP. XIII.--Continuation of Esmeraldas; Fish caught in the
River...._Chautisa_, method of taking....Preserving of....
Method of catching Fish in the River....Of Cooking it....Yucas,
Camotes, Yams....Palmettos....Tobacco....Cocoa....New variety
of....Occupation of the Esmeraldenos....Origin of....Language
....Dress....Manners and Character of....Religion....Re-ascend
the Esmeraldas River, to the Embarcadero de Maldonado....Mouth
of the River....City of Esmeraldas....Road to Atacames....Port
of....Town of...._Manzanillo_....Rio Verdo....La Tola....Country
Produce, Timber, and Wood....Coutchouc....Fruit Palms....
Animals....Mines....Conclusion 379
CHAP. XIV.--Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses
and Furniture....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at
the Vijia....Interview with the Cacique, Family of.... Tribe of
the Malabas....Tradition of the Origin of....Dress of....Manners
....Laws....Return to Cayapas....Visit Tumaco....Description of
....Barbacoas....Description of....Gold Mines....Manner of Working
them....Leave the Coast, Malbucho Road....River Mira...._Puentes
de Maroma_, and _Taravitas_...._Piquigua_....Arrive at
Ibarra, and return to Rio Verde and Esmeraldas....Ascend the River
Quinindi....Boa Constrictors....Santo Domingo de los Colorados
....Indians....Dress....Houses....Food Cocaniguas....Quito 408
CHAPTER I.
Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First Wheat in
Peru...._Tapiales_, Fences....Trees, Shrubs, and
Plants....Fruit....Animal....Birds, Fish....Appearance of the
Villages...._Balsas_....Indian Feast....Indian
Burial....Paramonga....Palace or Fortalice.
On the side of the river opposite to Huaito I visited the farm of Vinto,
which from the purposes to which it is dedicated may be considered as
something like an English farm. Horned cattle are bred in considerable
numbers; the cows rear the calves, and are seldom milked. Dr. Robertson
speaks of a degeneration of animals in America, "in the Spanish colonies
within the torrid zone, or bordering on it;" but he certainly was
misinformed with respect to Peru; the cattle is not so large as in
Lincolnshire, but, taking the average, it is as large as the English,
French, and Spanish cattle: when fed on lucern the meat is
well-flavoured, fat, and juicy, and the bones are very small. At Vinto
great numbers of pigs are reared, and are said to pay very well. Barley
is sown at a time which allows it to be in ear in the littering season,
when the sows are turned on it, and remain until it is all eaten down:
the young pigs are then separated from the old ones, and driven to a
field of lucern, where they are kept till they are fit for market; this
takes place when they are from ten to sixteen months old, at which age
they sell at from six to nine dollars each, if of a good breed for
fattening. Few sheep are bred on the coast, to which during some months
of the year large flocks are driven from the interior, and fattened for
the Lima market; many of these are ewes in-lamb, particularly those
brought down in November and December; and the common bargain between
the drover and the farmer is, to give the lambs for the pasturage, by
which means the farmer obtains a sufficient number of sheep to supply
him with mutton, calculating on receiving a hundred and fifty lambs for
every hundred ewes. Besides this increase in sheep, which is greater
than in England, the ewes bear twice a year in South America--in general
the lambing season is in June and December.
The breed of horses and mules at Vinto was of little extent, but some of
the latter were very good; the ordinary ones for carriers would sell for
forty-five or fifty dollars each, while the prime mules would fetch a
hundred or a hundred and fifty.
A considerable quantity of wheat is harvested at Vinto, as well as on
the neighbouring farms and near the surrounding villages; it is sown and
ploughed in, and irrigated three or sometimes four times during its
growth; after it is cut, it is thrown into a heap, and the grain trodden
out by horses; it is then cleared from the chaff, by throwing it up in
the wind, as in Chile, and it generally yields from fifty to
seventy-fold.
The first wheat was carried to Lima in the year 1535, by Doña Maria de
Escobar, wife of Doñ Diego de Chares; the quantity consisted of but a
few grains, which she cultivated herself. In the true spirit of the age
and country, she invited all her friends to celebrate the first harvest
of new wheat in the new world, not knowing that it had been produced in
Mexico in 1528, by a negro slave belonging to Cortes, who accidentally
found a few grains mixed among the rice which was supplied to the army.
To commemorate the happy event in Lima, Doña Maria presented to each of
her friends a few grains, and it is said that some ears were laid as an
offering on the altar of the Dominican church. The first wheat at Quito
was sown near to the Franciscan convent, by Father Jose Rixi, who
carried his seed thither from Europe in a small earthen jar, which yet
exists in the convent, and is exhibited to visitors; it is of baked
clay, and will hold about a quart. Among the relics shown to me, in
1809, I admired none so much as this: a circumstance which rather
disconcerted the pious sacristan who shewed them to me. The historian, I
should think, must feel greater pleasure in recording the name of the
individual who has promoted the welfare and contributed to the comforts
of his fellow creatures, than in sounding the trumpet of fame to that of
a hero whose glory reposes on the mangled bodies of thousands of his
comrades, slaughtered to add a letter to the name of the victor, and not
unfrequently to bind the chains of thraldom round the necks of the
vanquished.
Maize, beans of five or six varieties, lentils, garbansos, camotes,
yucas, and potatoes are cultivated by the farmer for home consumption,
as well as for the Lima market; the slaves also grow the same articles,
and on a Sunday take their produce to the neighbouring villages to sell.
The fields on these plantations and farms are generally divided by
walls, called _tapiales_: these are formed of large square masses of
clay or earth, sometimes mixed with stones, each being about four feet
long, two thick, and two broad, and are called _adobones_; the walls
are sometimes four and sometimes six feet high, being composed of two or
three layers of adobones. They are made by laying a frame of wood on the
ground, composed of two sides and one end, the sides being secured at
the other by thongs of raw hide; the earth on one side the box or frame
is then wetted with water, dug over once or twice, and put into the
frame, _adobera_, where it is trodden hard, or beaten with a heavy
rammer; more earth is thrown in, and again pressed down, until the frame
is quite full, when the top is smoothed over with a wooden trowel and
some water. The frame is removed by untying the thongs, which allows the
sides of the adobera to open a little, and to separate freely from the
adobon, which is smoothed with the trowel or hand with a little water;
the frame is now placed with its open end to the adobon which is
finished, and another is made and placed adjoining to it by the same
process. When a second or third tier is raised, two pieces of plank or
scantling are laid on the lower adobon, to support the frame, which is
filled as before; the scantlings are then drawn out and the frame
removed; the holes are sometimes filled up, and sometimes left open.
When stones are mixed with the clay or earth they are usually placed
along the sides of the frame, the centre being filled up with earth, to
which cut straw is occasionally added, particularly when the soil is
rather sandy. These fences are very durable; a ditch is formed on one or
both sides, according to the will of the master, and the earth dug out
serves to make the wall, and at the same time secures it from being
undermined by the water, which would be injurious to the foundation. In
those parts of Peru where it rains, small bundles of brush wood are put
across the top of the tapial, and clay laid on them to prevent the rain
from penetrating: if tiles were substituted they would answer much
better.
I have been rather minute in describing these walls, being convinced
that with a few improvements they would be found preferable to some
fences used in England; indeed the easy method of building them deserves
to be communicated to those who are in the habit of constructing fence
walls instead of hedges, a common practice in our hilly countries. As a
proof of their duration, many of these clay fences are now standing on
the coast of Peru, and of those cased with stone in the interior, built
more than three centuries ago, by the indians, before the Spaniards
discovered their country.
The trees that afford any timber in this neighbourhood are the molle
and espino, or huarango; from the latter excellent charcoal is made, and
considerable quantities are carried to Lima. Senna is found in abundance
in the hedges, and willows and poplars become very lofty. The indigo
plant grows spontaneously in the fields; I have sometimes observed
cochineal on the cactus, cultivated for its fruit, the prickly pear, but
of an inferior quality; in the interior it is called _pilcay_, and from
some cotton cloth which I have found in the huacas, it is evident that
the ancient Peruvians were acquainted with its colouring principle, this
as well as the indigo being among the fillets taken out of the huacas.
They procure the yellow tint at present by steeping the berries of the
molle in water, and afterwards a quantity of maize; wool dyed in this
water takes a bright and permanent yellow. A tree of the mimosa tribe,
called Tara, bears a quantity of pods which contain a large portion of
tanin; ink is generally made from an infusion of these pods, by adding
to it some sulphate of iron. The fragrant floripondio grows in many of
the hedges, assisted by the odorous ñorbo, a small species of passion
flower, which emits in the evening a most delightful fragrance. The
prickly apple, holy thistle, and many other medicinal plants grow wild,
with the virtues and applications of which the indians are well
acquainted. The maguey is very common; it makes a good hedge, no animal
daring to pass it, on account of the large prickles with which the point
of each leaf is armed. It may be said, that this is one of the most
useful plants at present known. Of the flower stalks the indians build
their houses, and cover them with its large leaves; the fibrous part may
be converted into thread and woven for clothing, while its sharp pointed
prickles are a good substitute for needles. Before the flower stem makes
its appearance, if the heart of the plant be cut out, and a hollow place
made in the centre, it will be filled in ten or twelve hours with a
thick syrup, which may be used instead of sugar; when this is mixed with
water and fermented, it forms the favourite Mexican beverage _pulque_;
of this juice vinegar may be made, or brandy distilled from it: if the
leaves are bruised and pressed, they produce by boiling a balsamic
syrup, used to cleanse and cure ulcers; the leaves are also used instead
of soap: the clothes are wetted, and then beaten with a leaf which has
been crushed; a thick white froth is produced, and after rincing, the
clothes are quite clean. The flower buds are very delicate eating when
boiled or pickled. Of the aloes this is the largest species; here are
two varieties, the leaves of the one being of a deep green inclining to
black, while those of the other are of a beautiful pale green; the
latter is the more useful of the two varieties.
A tree called _del jaboncillo_ grows in the hedges; it has the
appearance of the laurel, and produces a quantity of round fruit, of the
size of small plums; a hard kernel is enclosed in a tough rind, which
when ripe contains a pulpy matter; this, on being mixed with water,
produces a white froth, and is used instead of soap for washing.
In some gardens the _achote_ is cultivated; this tree is seldom above
ten feet high, the leaves are heart-shaped, and the seeds are enclosed
in a prickly capsule about three inches long; they are covered with an
unctuous matter, of a vermilion colour, and are thrown into hot water,
and afterwards strained, when the liquor is boiled to the consistency of
paste, and forms the annotta dye. The natives often use it as a spice,
or as a colouring matter for their food.
_Mani_ is also cultivated; the plant is very frondiferous, is about two
feet high, and has white flowers; but the mani, or nuts, are attached
to the roots; they are about the size of horse beans, and when roasted
or boiled are delicate eating; they contain a considerable quantity of
oil, of a beautiful green colour, which is obtained by pressure; it is
equally palatable with the best olive oil. The root is remarkably
nutritive, and very agreeable to eat when on a long journey.
A tree called _pilco_ grows in the hedge rows; the leaves are lancet
formed, and the branches very straight; the fruit is like that of the
common laurel. If a person remain but a short time under the shade of
this tree when the sun shines, swellings and pustules make their
appearance on the face and arms, or any other naked part of the body.
The juice is extremely caustic, and ulcerates the skin wherever it
touches; on which account it is called in the Quichua language
_capsicarancha_, the itch tree. When it is necessary to cut down any of
these trees, a fire is made at the foot of them, and their offensive
property is destroyed.
The plant which produces the castor bean, from which the castor oil is
obtained, grows wild; the oil is often extracted by the natives, and on
some sugar plantations it is used for the purpose of burning in lamps.
One variety of this plant produces very large beans, which are called
_piñones_: it grows about six feet high; the leaves are somewhat like
those of the vine; the beans are enclosed in prickly capsules, each
containing two beans, which have a thin black shell, and very white
kernel; two or three of these chewed and swallowed prove a violent
purgative. The natives extract the oil and apply it to the abdomen in
cases of dropsy; they also dilute a small quantity in urine, and pour
one or two drops into the ear, in cases of deafness or a pain in the
ear.
During the damp season, in foggy months, a species of cactus grows on
the _lomas_ or sand hills which produces a fruit called _caimito_; this
resembles in shape a large cucumber; it is first green, afterwards
brown, with yellow stripes, and when ripe it is red. The taste is an
agreeable subacid; but after eating the fruit a very disagreeable
feeling is left on the lips, which is removed by rubbing them with a
piece of the rind. The fruit is remarkably fragrant, and on this account
it is frequently kept in the houses.
In the garden at Huaito there were a few plants of coffee; they were
very healthy and bore fruit abundantly. Cotton of a good quality grows
near the cottages of the indians, who always cultivate a few plants for
their own consumption; among these plants I have observed many bearing
cotton of a nankeen colour, but of this they seldom make any use.
Quantities of small lizards are to be seen on every heap of rubbish or
stones, particularly when the sun shines, busily employed in catching
flies, on which they appear to subsist; I have frequently watched them
while seizing their prey. As soon as they observe a fly on the sand they
creep out of their holes and make their advance with a slow and almost
imperceptible motion; they place themselves in a right line with the
object, and then make a dart at it open mouthed, and swallow it in a
moment, very rarely missing it. They are often beautifully striped with
green, yellow, and brown, and are generally about eight inches long. On
some parts of the coast the indians eat them; they cut off the tail and
the feet and fry the body, which has then the appearance of a fried
smelt. I ate some at San Pedro, and believed them to be the peje rey
until I was undeceived. The indians consider them as a medicinal food
for persons afflicted with cutaneous diseases.
The opossum is found in all the valleys of the coast; it is about two
feet long including the tail, which is as long as the body; the nose is
pointed like that of a hog, and has no hair on it from the eyes to the
mouth; the ears are thin, without any hair on them, and stand erect;
the feet are also naked and small, and it holds its meat with its fore
paws, like a monkey; the body is covered with hair, black at the roots
and white at the points, which gives it a shady grey colour; the tail is
slender and naked, and by it the animal can hang suspended to the branch
of a tree. The female brings forth four or five young ones at a time,
not larger than mice when first born, and they immediately betake
themselves to the pouch under the belly of their mother. The pouch is
formed by a fold of the skin, hairy on the outside and covered with a
very soft down or fur on the inside; the nipples are so situated, that
the young ones can suck them as they are carried about by their mother;
when about the size of full grown mice they leave the pouch by an
opening in the centre, and bask in the sun, but if any danger threaten
them they immediately take refuge in their natural home. I one day
caught an old opossum by the tail, when four of her young ones ran out;
I chased and captured two of them; they immediately hid themselves by
running up the inside of my coat sleeves; I took them home, reared them,
and they became perfectly domesticated, were very tame, and would sleep
on the same mat with a dog. They feed on fruit or esculents, will eat
flesh, and are particularly fond of eggs. The indians esteem them as
food, but I never had an opportunity of eating any. The natives
sometimes call the opossum _mochilera_, from _mochila_, a knapsack; the
indians call it _mucamuca_.
The añas of Peru is a species of pole cat, and is nearly the size of a
domestic cat; its colour is a deep brown approaching to black, with a
line of round white spots extending from the nose to the tail; the head
is long, the ears broad and covered with hair, the eyes large with small
black pupils, the nose sharp like the opossum; the upper lip is shorter
than the lower one, which projects, and the mouth contains twelve
incisorial, four canine, and sixteen grinding teeth. The hind legs are
longer than the fore, and each foot has five toes, armed with long sharp
nails, with which it burrows into the ground, and forms a place of
security for its young. When walking it carries its head down, and its
tail, which is bushy, is turned on the back like that of a squirrel.
Under the tail and above the vent is a small vesicle, which contains a
remarkably fetid oily liquid. When attacked or in danger this animal
elevates its posteriors and forcibly ejects upon its assailant this
pestiferous fluid, the loathsome effects of which nothing can exceed.
Clothes that are in the least sprinkled with it become totally useless,
for no washing will take off the stench; in the same manner, it will not
leave the body, if any part happen to come in contact with it, until the
cuticle or surface skin comes off. If a dog by chance receive any of it
on his body he immediately runs to the water, rolls himself in the mud,
howls, and appears almost mad, nor will he eat any thing for several
days, or until the stench begins to abate--this defence is the only one
of which the añas ever avails itself.
Conscious of his offensive powers, the añas is not alarmed at the
approach of either men or dogs; it always passes them fearlessly, indeed
both generally make way, lest by opposition they might subject
themselves to its nauseous and abominable filth, and become disgusting
even to themselves by being wetted with its matter.
The skin of the añas has a beautiful long soft fur, and is quite free
from any disagreeable smell. The animal feeds on poultry and eggs, and
is very annoying, for no one chooses to risk the killing of it: when
this is effected, it is generally with a trap, but should it be killed
in a village or near a house, the smell is quite a nuisance to the
neighbourhood for several days.
Some few snakes are found in the hedges, but they are quite harmless.
The _alacran_, scorpion, is venomous, but not more painful than the
sting of a wasp.
Of the feathered tribe the majestic _condor_ stands most conspicuous,
whether on the ground extending its wings, which often measure fourteen
feet from tip to tip, or soaring among the clouds, in appearance not
larger than a swallow. The flight of this bird is truly majestic; it
rises with an almost imperceptible tremulous motion of the wings, and
falls to the ground in the same manner; it pounces on its prey, if a
lamb or any other small animal, and bears it off in its talons to some
neighbouring mountain; if the prey be too large, the condor will feed on
it till unable to fly, when it becomes itself the easy prey of the
villagers, who run it down and kill it with clubs.
The _gallinaso_, or turkey buzzard, as it is sometimes called, from its
resemblance to a turkey, is a very useful bird; it is the public
scavenger, devours all kinds of carrion, and on this account is seldom
or never killed.
A few small eagles and hawks are troublesome among the poultry, and
destroy great numbers. Wild ducks frequent the mouths of the rivers,
where we find gulls and other aquatic birds, among which we frequently
discover the pelican.
The singing birds are the _cilguero_, a kind of linnet; the blackbird,
resembling in size and note the English blackbird; the _titupuying_,
which is something like the cardinal. A species of wood pigeon is very
common, and in allusion to its note is called coo coo lee; it is easily
tamed, and will coo at any hour of the night, if a candle be lighted,
but never more than three times before it ceases or rests.
Some of the rivers have plenty of _lisa_, a species of mullet, _peje
rey_, and _camarones_; the sea fish on the coast are _corbina_, _chita_,
_jureles_, a kind of mackerel, _peje rey_, and _lenguado_, a species of
turbot. Shell fish is scarce, but small muscles and limpets are
generally found. The natives cook and eat a sea weed which grows on the
rocks, known by the name of _yuyo de la mar_. On the shore among the
sand a small white stone is found, called _piedra del ojo_, or _limpia
ojos_; it is about the size of a lentil, and of an opaque white colour;
the natives pretend that by putting one of them under the eyelid, it
will travel round the eye, and then fall out, bringing with it any
extraneous matter that may have been lodged in this delicate organ.
The villages along the coast have a very neat appearance; the houses are
but one story high, with a capacious corridor in front; some of them are
supported by pillars made of sun-dried bricks, some round, others
square; while others are composed of bundles of canes lashed together
and covered with clay, with arches made of the same materials. The whole
front is white-washed, and a comfortable promenade is produced under the
grotesque piazzas, a range of seats sometimes extending the length of
ten or twelve houses; and here in the cool of a summer evening the
villagers sit, or lay their mats on the ground and sleep. In those
villages where the population consists of creoles and indians few of the
latter build their houses in the busy part of the village; they prefer
living on their own small chacras, or the allotments of land which they
possess.
A low table, a few pots and pans to cook in, and some calabashes to eat
and drink out of, compose the furniture of an indian's cottage. Mats of
_totora_, a long rush which grows in swampy ground, are their seats, of
which rushes they sometimes make the walls of their cottages, by tying
them up in small bundles, putting these close together, and securing
them with canes placed horizontally on each side, and tied together at
certain distances. They also form _balsas_ of them; for this purpose,
they tie together as many as make the middle of the balsa, about two
yards in circumference, which they taper to a point at each end; they
then shape it like a crescent by winding round it ropes of the totora.
Seated on the centre of this original boat, they take their nets and go
two or three leagues out to sea, and I never heard of any accident
happening to the fishermen. As the person who navigates in this manner
must sit astride, the indians often call their balsas _potrillos_,
colts; and the appearance of a fleet of them floating on a smooth sea in
a calm evening is very beautiful.
When dry, the balsa only weighs a few pounds, so that on one mule the
fisherman can carry his boat, his net, and even sufficient materials to
build his hut: in this manner they range up and down the coast in search
of fish, which they often salt and take either to Lima or some other
market. One kind of net is perfectly round when laid open on the ground;
the circumference has several pieces of lead attached to it, and in the
centre a rope is tied: when used they collect about half the net on the
right arm, throw it into the water, and allow it to sink to the bottom;
they then draw the line fastened to the centre, and as the net rises,
the leads close by their own weight, and the fish are thus secured. With
this umbrella net, as I used to call it, they often catch large
quantities of fish in the rivers, lakes, and among the surf on the sea
shore--the indians name the net ataraya.
When an indian celebrates the feast of some particular saint, he
provides a dinner for all who choose to partake of it; mats are laid on
the ground, and the cloth along the middle of them; large calabashes of
chicha, some holding five or six gallons, are placed on the cloth, with
a number of smaller ones, holding about a pint, ranged on each side; the
men seat themselves, and the women bring in large dishes of beef, cut
into pieces about two inches square, and stewed with lard, a quantity of
capsicum, and the juice of sour oranges. Spoons are placed on the table,
if I may so call it, but the fingers supply the place of forks--knives
are very seldom wanted, and small calabashes serve instead of plates:
when these dishes are removed the chicha goes merrily round. The second
course of dishes is generally filled with fowls stewed with some kind of
vegetables, but not picante, seasoned with _agi_, capsicum pods; after
this course follows a _pepian_, consisting of turkey stewed with rice
flour, water, onions, garlic, cayenne pepper, and lard; sometimes peje
reyes, smelts, merely laid for five or six hours in the juice of sour
oranges, and green capsicum pods are brought in; and, lastly, the
favourite dish of cuyes, guinea pigs, highly seasoned with cayenne
pepper. Between each course the chicha circulates freely, and the
company often rise pretty merry; after which they mount their horses and
call for the stirrup cup; the mistress of the feast then goes out with a
large pongo, calabash of chicha, and distributes a small one to each of
the guests, who frequently joke with her about love affairs; indeed, I
have often heard very witty repartees on such occasions. After the men
are gone, the women sit down and enjoy their dinner in some other
room--not unfrequently in the kitchen; but they abstain almost entirely
from the chicha or any other intoxicating liquors.
On the death of an indian, his relatives immediately repair to the
house, and place themselves round the corpse, which is laid on the
ground, and wail over him in a kind of plaintive ditty; they mourn his
departure, asking him "Why he left them so soon?" with other similar
questions, enumerating also all his actions, kindnesses, &c. If the
deceased leave a widow, she will sing over him, and recount the tales he
told when he courted her, say where they first met, mention other things
that would be as well forgotten, and conclude with, "Why have you gone
and left me? But some other loved you as well as myself, and she has
bewitched you to death, she has sucked your blood, and she will now be
happy." When this lamentation ceases, a relative will approach the
house, and begin the wail again, all the company joining, and repeating
theirs; the dirge is continued with little interruption until the corpse
is buried.
About five miles from Patavilca, and a hundred and twenty from Lima, is
a place called Paramonga, or the Fortalesa. The ruins of a fortified
palace of very great extent are here visible; the walls are of tempered
clay, about six feet thick; the principal building stood on an eminence,
but the walls were continued to the foot of it, like regular
circumvallations; the ascent winded round the hill, like a labyrinth,
having many angles, which probably served as outworks to defend the
place. It is supposed to have belonged to the Chimu or King of
Mansichi, and was a frontier palace during the time of the Incas. The
oral tradition of the indians says, that at this place the Chimu did
homage to Pachacutec, the tenth Inca. Near these ruins is a high rock,
which overhangs the sea, called _el serro de la horca_, gallows' hill,
because from the top of it all criminals were formerly thrown into the
sea. Near the Fortalesa is a very extensive ruin of a town, and a
manufactory of saltpetre is established. The salt is obtained by filling
large cisterns with the sand taken from the graves or huacas; water is
poured on it, and having filtered through the sand, it is drawn off;
this is next evaporated and put into large canoes, in which the salt
crystallizes. The nitre is very pure, and is carried to Lima and sold at
the powder mills. Considerable treasure, both in gold and silver
ornaments, has been found, when taking the sand out of the huacas;
beside which many curiosities in earthenware, porphyry, basalt and other
stones, as well as cotton and woollen garments, have been collected. The
value of treasure dug up by different individuals in the year 1813
exceeded twenty thousand dollars.