Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The
Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion.
Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont.
Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last
Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of
what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the
storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At
Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a
couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed
to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and
Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first
person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before
she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come
to meet me, Mrs. Euber?"
"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago."
After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr.
Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the
previous week.
"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received
your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a
great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you
didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up."
Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him,
promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found
he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called
on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I
learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook
my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey
home, and find your dear mother well!"
"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing
better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch
acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we
meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are
stored away for future reference, in quiet hours.
Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the
thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my
indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over
level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed
over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed
their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said
good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont.
Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at
Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri
river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car
where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and
watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all
those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have
returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of
Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged
gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross
the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be
careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the
shore."
"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the
boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall
into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed
with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but
we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy
shores of Iowa.
Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at
Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my
grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield,
Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow
me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there.
July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the
Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed
the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and
shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and
valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought
there was an air of home in the breezes.
The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at
Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the
depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months
ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I
gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright
expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves
as bright as these I gather?
Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear
old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return
again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall
the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and
esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent
people it holds within its arms.
As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in
a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I
have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months'
stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot
have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the
little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest
price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead.
"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too
dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and
wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do
they?
"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B.
over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants
of the car.
"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other.
"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve
a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any
good."
"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down
to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where
everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose
those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you
know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for
their fun.
When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels
as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew
my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take
the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in
waiting and only one carriage.
"Go to the ----, lady?"
"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the
ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge,
past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open
saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an
eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm
and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I
guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an
elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my
imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that
He had brought me safely so near home.
"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning.
"Seventy-five cents."
I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please
take fifty?"
"Why?"
"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel."
"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents
on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not
help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several
little extras I had met with had taken about all.
I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him
at the breakfast table.
August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of
rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size,
but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to
you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of
snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that
glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig
and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I
wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and
how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere
else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the
great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the
many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark."
They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond
description.
Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for
DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then
out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of
trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard
Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is
dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and
hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones,
trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed
with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters
and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations,
but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of
derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17
miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is
the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment
to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302
feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of
silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever
again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I
feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the
honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle,"
never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and
exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!"
It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience
the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks
at either side, and the cars run very slow.
One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen
excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great
valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as
one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures.
Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful
mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500
feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond
description, so are the mountains.
J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the
plains and stood upon the mountain peaks."
To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but
enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the
plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His
children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged
mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the
most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union.
Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June,
and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the
trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand,
and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis
watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he
recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to
tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the
"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were
not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon
looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days,
but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to
go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home.
"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your
wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting:
"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking
than when she went away," Maggie said.
August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home,
through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land,
the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and
we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat
from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I
thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a
mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world.
While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a
shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and
something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help
comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little
western town.
Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we
go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once
more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest
little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I
wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles
farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays
aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau,"
and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the
gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its
rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip
through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase
Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and
her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the
meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me.
"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't
leave you soon again!"
Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the
house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we
frightened Emma and Harry into a cry.
I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she
strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the
friends.
Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear
mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries,
and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how
good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at
my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep.
Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see
and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel"
was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit
Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May,
shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but
where is Will?
"Out at the oats field?"
"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see
him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back
field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go
through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down
goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!"
As we trudge down the hill, I said:
"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your
farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a
scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state."
"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will
endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they
could go along I would like to try life in the West."
Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book
out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when
mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed
look:
"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some
huckleberries for supper."
Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put
aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the
huckleberries are gathered.
Seated again--
"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while
Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while
I make a corn cutter."
Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father?
There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand
that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia.
"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly
turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then,
"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn
cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it
be a time of peace."
I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the
latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt
Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly
turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my
sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on
the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover
puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr
to kisses--I mean baby kisses?
Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came
the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown.
And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I
finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The
cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and
although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the
thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a
cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the
slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all
over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and
mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone
Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though
I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks.
Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the
"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day
lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of
faith and trust.
So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along
this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
do justice to Niagara Falls.
I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New
York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected
farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit
river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only
see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to
the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not
get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday
morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five
days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some
of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the
people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good
old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of
the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of
vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering
up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought,
Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and
earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln
Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright
day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the
panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything
about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to
corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look
for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that
I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among
the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked
upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the
artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday
morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the
Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over
the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go
over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I
left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road
that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land
in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the
Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is
night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view.
Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it
is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the
Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln,
arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again
just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my
welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home
with them during my stay in Lincoln.
My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr.
Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms
satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year
from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book
began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of
it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of
hard labor.
How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work,
kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of
discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying:
"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the
labor it involves."
"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work
cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden
in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all
through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put
it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at
the last."
"Did He forsake me," do you ask?
"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in
Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their
name down without hesitation.
"What security do you want of me?" I asked.
"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book."
"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many
prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands
would be reached out to me."
"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so
keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged."
I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it
to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his
confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness
such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach.
_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear
aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father
spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome
me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was
afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the
water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said:
"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just
now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me
this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of
sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84
with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue.
"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up
to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror
of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth.
The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the
sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the
leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other
May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my
May-day in the old familiar places.
Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford,
and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction,
friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I
thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish."
And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary
of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE.
[Illustration:
FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R.
AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.]
End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton