The party, while descending the river in their skin canoes,
are overtaken by the detachment under captain Lewis, and
the whole party, now once more happily united, descend the
Missouri together--they once more revisit the Minnetaree
Indians, and hold a council with that nation, as well as the
Mahahas--captain Clarke endeavours to persuade their chiefs
to accompany him to the United States, which invitation they
decline, on account of their fears of the Sioux in their
passage down the river--Colter, one of the party, requests and
obtains liberty to remain amongst the Indians, for the purpose
of hunting beaver--friendly deportment of the Mandans--council
held by captain Clarke with the chiefs of the different
villages--the chief named the Bigwhite, with his wife and son,
agree to accompany the party to the United States, who takes an
affecting farewell of his nation--Chaboneau with his wife and
child, decline visiting the United States, and are left amongst
the Indians--the party at length proceed on their journey,
and find that the course of the Missouri is in some places
changed since their passage up that river--they arrive amongst
the Ricaras--character of the Chayennes: their dress, habits,
&c.--captain Clarke offers to the chief of this nation a medal,
which he at first refuses, believing it to be medicine, but
which he is afterwards prevailed on to accept--the Ricaras
refuse to permit one of their party to accompany captain
Clarke to the United States until the return of their chief,
who had formerly gone--the party proceed rapidly down the
river--prepare to defend themselves against the Tetons, but
receive no injury from them--incredible numbers of buffaloe
seen near White river--they meet at last with the Tetons, and
refuse their invitations to land--intrepidity of captain Clarke.
Thursday, August 12. The party continued slowly to descend the river.
One of the skin canoes was by accident pierced with a small hole, and
they halted for the purpose of mending it with a piece of elk skin, and
also to wait for two of the party who were behind. Whilst there, they
were overjoyed at seeing captain Lewis’s boats heave in sight about
noon. But this feeling was changed into alarm on seeing the boats reach
the shore without captain Lewis, who they then learnt had been wounded
the day before, and was then lying in the periogue. After giving to
his wound all the attention in our power, we remained here some time,
during which we were overtaken by our two men, accompanied by Dickson
and Hancock, who wished to go with us as far as the Mandans. The whole
party being now happily reunited, we left the two skin canoes, and all
embarked together, about 3 o’clock, in the boats. The wind was however
very high from the southwest, accompanied with rain, so that we did not
go far before we halted for the night on a sandbar. Captain Lewis’s
wound was now sore and somewhat painful. The next day,
Friday, 13, they set out by sunrise, and having a very strong breeze
from the northwest, proceeded on rapidly. At eight o’clock we passed
the mouth of the Little Missouri. Some Indians were seen at a distance
below in a skin canoe, and were probably some of the Minnetarees on
their return from a hunting excursion, as we passed one of their camps
on the southwest side, where they had left a canoe. Two other Indians
were seen far off on one of the hills, and we shall therefore soon meet
with our old acquaintances, the Mandans. At sunset we arrived at the
entrance of Miry river, and encamped on the northeast side, having come
by the assistance of the wind and our oars, a distance of eighty six
miles. The air was cool, and the musquetoes ceased to trouble us as
they had done.
Saturday, 14. We again set out at sunrise, and at length approached
the grand village of the Minnetarees, where the natives had collected
to view us as we passed. We fired the blunderbuss several times by way
of salute, and soon after landed at the bank near the village of the
Mahahas, or Shoe Indians, and were received by a crowd of people, who
came to welcome our return. Among these were the principal chief of the
Mahahas, and the chief of the Little Minnetaree village, both of whom
expressed great pleasure at seeing us again; but the latter wept most
bitterly. On inquiry, it appeared that his tears were excited because
the sight of us reminded him of his son, who had been lately killed by
the Blackfoot Indians. After remaining there a few minutes, we crossed
to the Mandan village of the Blackcat, where all the inhabitants
seemed very much pleased at seeing us. We immediately sent Chaboneau
with an invitation for the Minnetarees to visit us, and despatched
Drewyer to the lower village of the Mandans to bring Jesseaume as an
interpreter. Captain Clarke, in the meantime, walked up to the village
of the Blackcat, and smoked and eat with the chief. This village has
been rebuilt since our departure, and was now much smaller; a quarrel
having arisen among the Indians, in consequence of which a number of
families had removed to the opposite side of the river. On the arrival
of Jesseaume, captain Clarke addressed the chiefs. We spoke to them
now, he said, in the same language we had done before; and repeated his
invitation to accompany him to the United States, to hear in person the
councils of their great father, who can at all times protect those who
open their ears to his councils, and punish his enemies. The Blackcat
in reply, declared that he wished to visit the United States, and see
his great father, but was afraid of the Sioux, who had killed several
of the Mandans since our departure, and who were now on the river
below, and would intercept him if he attempted to go. Captain Clarke
endeavoured to quiet his apprehensions by assuring him that he would
not suffer the Sioux to injure one of our red children who should
accompany us, and that they should return loaded with presents, and
protected at the expense of the United States. The council was then
broken up, after which we crossed and formed our camp on the other side
of the river, where we should be sheltered from the rain. Soon after
the chief of the Mahahas informed us, that if we would send to his
village, we should have some corn. Three men were therefore despatched,
and soon after returned loaded with as much as they could carry; and
were soon followed by the chief and his wife, to whom we presented a
few needles and other articles fit for women. In a short time the
Borgne (the great chief of all the Minnetarees) came down, attended by
several other chiefs, to whom, after smoking a pipe, captain Clarke
now made a harangue, renewing his assurances of friendship and the
invitation to go with us to Washington. He was answered by the Borgne,
who began by declaring that he much desired to visit his great father,
but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who should
attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not
listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had
made peace with all the nations below, yet the Sioux had since killed
eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras
too had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed
two of the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always
had his ears open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with
the Chayennes and the Indians of the Rocky mountains. He concluded by
saying, that however disposed they were to visit the United States, the
fear of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us. The council
was then finished, and soon afterwards an invitation was received
from the Blackcat, who, on captain Clarke’s arrival at his village,
presented him with a dozen bushels of corn, which he said was a large
proportion of what his people owned; and after smoking a pipe, declared
that his people were too apprehensive of the Sioux to venture with us.
Captain Clarke then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village.
He told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their great
father, and hear his good words and receive his gifts, and requested
them to fix on some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this
they made the same objections as before, till at length a young man
offered to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the character
of this man was known to be bad, and one of the party with captain
Clarke informed him that at the moment he had in his possession a
knife which he had stolen. Captain Clarke therefore told the chief of
this theft, and ordered the knife to be given up. This was done with a
poor apology for having it in his possession, and captain Clarke then
reproached the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear
so distinguished a person as their great father. They all hung down
their heads for some time, till the Blackcat apologized by saying,
that the danger was such that they were afraid of sending any of their
chiefs, as they considered his loss almost inevitable. Captain Clarke
remained some time with them, smoking and relating various particulars
of his journey, and then left them to visit the second chief of the
Mandans (or the Blackcrow) who had expressed some disposition to
accompany us. He seemed well inclined to the journey, but was unwilling
to decide till he had called a council of his people, which he intended
to do in the afternoon. On returning to the camp, he found the chief
of the Mahahas, and also the chief of the Little Minnetaree village,
who brought a present of corn on their mules, of which they possess
several, and which they procure from the Crow Indians, who either buy
or steal them on the frontiers of the Spanish settlements. A great
number of the Indians visited us for the purpose of renewing their
acquaintance, or of exchanging robes or other articles for the skins
brought by the men.
In the evening we were applied to by one of our men, Colter, who was
desirous of joining the two trappers who had accompanied us, and
who now proposed an expedition up the river, in which they were to
find traps and give him a share of the profits. The offer was a very
advantageous one, and as he had always performed his duty, and his
services might be dispensed with, we agreed that he might go, provided
none of the rest would ask or expect a similar indulgence. To this
they cheerfully answered, that they wished Colter every success, and
would not apply for liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis.
We, therefore, supplied him, as did his comrades also, with powder and
lead, and a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and he
left us the next day. The example of this man shows how easily men
may be weaned from the habits of a civilized life to the ruder, but
scarcely less fascinating manners of the woods. This hunter has been
now absent for many years from the frontiers, and might naturally be
presumed to have some anxiety, or some curiosity at least to return
to his friends and his country: yet just at the moment when he is
approaching the frontiers, he is tempted by a hunting scheme, to give
up those delightful prospects, and go back without the least reluctance
to the solitude of the woods.
In the evening Chaboneau, who had been mingling with the Indians, and
had learned what had taken place during our absence, informed us, that
as soon as we had left the Minnetarees, they sent out a war party
against the Shoshonees, whom they attacked and routed, though in the
engagement they lost two men, one of whom was the son of the chief of
the Little Minnetaree village. Another war party had gone against the
Racaras, two of whom they killed. A misunderstanding too had taken
place between the Mandans and Minnetarees, in consequence of a dispute
about a woman, which had nearly occasioned a war; but at length a pipe
was presented by the Minnetarees, and a reconciliation took place.
Friday 16. The Mandans had offered to give us some corn, and on sending
this morning, we found a greater quantity collected for our use than
all our canoes would contain. We therefore thanked the chief and took
only six loads. At ten o’clock the chiefs of the different villages
came down to smoke with us. We therefore took this opportunity of
endeavouring to engage the Borgne in our interests by a present of the
swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as it cannot be discharged
from our largest periogue. It was now loaded, and the chiefs being
formed into a circle round it, captain Clarke addressed them with
great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention to
what had yesterday been declared by the Borgne, whom he believed
to be sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our
counsels, and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Littlecherry,
the old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long staid at home
and listened to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux
because their horses had been stolen, and their companions killed; and
that in an expedition against those people, they had met the Ricaras,
who were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in
future he said they would attend to our words and live at peace. The
Borgne added, that his ears too would always be open to the words
of his good father, and shut against bad counsel. Captain Clarke
then presented to the Borgne the swivel, which he had told him had
announced the words of his great father to all the nations we had seen,
and which, whenever it was fired, should recall those which we had
delivered to him. The gun was then discharged, and the Borgne had it
conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council was then adjourned.
In the afternoon captain Clarke walked up to the village of the
Littlecrow, taking a flag, which he intended to present to him,
but was surprised on being told by him, that he had given over all
intention of accompanying us, and refused the flag. He found that this
was occasioned by a jealousy between him and the principal chief,
Bigwhite: on the interference, however, of Jesseaume, the two chiefs
were reconciled, and it was agreed that the Bigwhite himself should
accompany us with his wife and son.
Saturday, 17. The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees came down to
bid us farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with
us. This circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, with his
wife and child, to remain here, as he could be no longer useful; and
notwithstanding our offers of taking him with us to the United States,
he said that he had there no acquaintance, and no chance of making a
livelihood, and preferred remaining among the Indians. This man has
been very serviceable to us, and his wife particularly useful among
the Shoshonees. Indeed, she has borne with a patience truly admirable,
the fatigues of so long a route, incumbered with the charge of an
infant, who is even now only nineteen months old. We therefore paid him
his wages, amounting to five hundred dollars and thirty-three cents,
including the price of a horse and a lodge purchased of him; and soon
afterwards dropped down to the village of the Bigwhite, attended on
shore by all the Indian chiefs who went to take leave of him. We found
him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, while the
women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with their
baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, and two
children; and then after distributing among his friends some powder and
ball, which we had given to him, and smoking a pipe with us, went with
us to the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of
the people wept aloud at the departure of the chief. As captain Clarke
was shaking hands with the principal chiefs of all the villages, they
requested that he would sit with them one moment longer. Being willing
to gratify them, he stopped and ordered a pipe, after smoking which,
they informed him that when they first saw us, they did not believe all
that we then told them; but having now seen that our words were all
true, they would carefully remember them, and follow our advice; that
he might tell their great father that the young men should remain at
home and not make war on any people except in defence of themselves.
They requested him to tell the Ricaras to come and visit them without
fear, as they meant that nation no harm, but were desirous of peace
with them. On the Sioux, however, they had no dependence, and must kill
them whenever they made war parties against their country. Captain
Clarke, in reply, informed them that we had never insisted on their not
defending themselves, but requested only that they would not strike
those whom we had taken by the hand; that we would apprise the Ricaras
of their friendly intentions, and that, although we had not seen those
of the Sioux with whom they were at war, we should relate their conduct
to their great father, who would take measures for producing a general
peace among all his red children.
The Borgne now requested that we would take good care of this chief,
who would report whatever their great father should say; and the
council being then broken up, we took leave with a salute from a gun,
and then proceeded. On reaching fort Mandan, we found a few pickets
standing on the river side, but all the houses except one, had been
burnt by an accidental fire. At the distance of eighteen miles we
reached the old Ricara village, where we encamped on the southwest
side, the wind being too violent, and the waves too high to permit us
to go any further. The same cause prevented us from setting out before
eight o’clock the next day,
Monday, 18. Soon after we embarked, an Indian came running down to
the beach, who appeared very anxious to speak to us. We went ashore,
and found it was the brother of the Bigwhite, who was encamped at no
great distance, and hearing of our departure, came to take leave of the
chief. The Bigwhite gave him a pair of leggings, and they separated
in a most affectionate manner; and we then continued though the wind
and waves were still high. The Indian chief seems quite satisfied
with his treatment, and during the whole of his time was employed in
pointing out the ancient monuments of the Mandans, or in relating their
traditions. At length, after making forty miles, we encamped on the
northeast side, opposite an old Mandan village, and below the mouth of
Chesshetah river.
Tuesday, 19. The wind was so violent that we were not able to proceed
until four in the afternoon, during which time the hunters killed four
elk and twelve deer. We then went on for ten miles, and came to on a
sandbar. The rain and wind continued through the night, and during the
whole of the next day.
Wednesday, 20, the waves were so high, that one man was constantly
occupied in bailing the boats. We passed at noon, Cannonball river;
and at three in the afternoon, the entrance of the river Wardepon,
the boundary of the country claimed by the Sioux; and after coming
eighty-one miles, passed the night on a sandbar. The plains are
beginning to change their appearance, the grass becoming of a yellow
colour. We have seen great numbers of wolves to-day, and some buffaloe
and elk, though these are by no means so abundant as on the Yellowstone.
Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the
current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time
there were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the
former channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then
naked, are covered with willows several feet high: the entrance of some
of the creeks and rivers changed in consequence of the quantity of mud
thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight
inches in depth.
Thursday, 21. We rose after a night of broken rest, owing to the
musquetoes, and having put our arms in order, so as to be prepared for
an attack, continued our course. We soon met three traders, two of
whom had wintered with us among the Mandans in 1804, and who were now
on their way there. They had exhausted all their powder and lead; we
therefore supplied them with both. They informed us that seven hundred
Sioux had passed the Ricara towns on their way to make war against the
Mandans and Minnetarees, leaving their women and children encamped near
the Bigbend of the Missouri, and that the Ricaras all remained at home,
without taking any part in the war. They also told us that the Pawnee,
or Ricara chief, who went to the United States in the spring of 1805,
died on his return near Sioux river.
We then left them, and soon afterwards arrived opposite to the upper
Ricara villages. We saluted them with the discharge of four guns, which
they answered in the same manner; and on our landing we were met by the
greater part of the inhabitants of each village, and also by a band of
Chayennes, who were encamped on a hill in the neighbourhood.
As soon as captain Clarke stepped on shore, he was greeted by the two
chiefs to whom we had given medals on our last visit, and as they, as
well as the rest, appeared much rejoiced at our return, and desirous of
hearing from the Mandans, he sat down on the bank, while the Ricaras
and Chayennes formed a circle round him; and after smoking, he informed
them, as he had already done the Minnetarees, of the various tribes we
had visited, and our anxiety to promote peace among our red brethren.
He then expressed his regret at their having attacked the Mandans,
who had listened to our counsels, and had sent on a chief to smoke
with them, and to assure them that they might now hunt in the plains,
and visit the Mandan villages in safety, and concluded by inviting
some of the chiefs to accompany us to Washington. The man whom we had
acknowledged as the principal chief when we ascended, now presented
another, who he said was a greater chief than himself, and to him,
therefore, he had surrendered the flag and medal with which we had
honoured him. This chief, who was absent at our last visit, is a man of
thirty-five years of age, a stout, well-looking man, and called by the
Indians, Grayeyes.
He now made a very animated reply. He declared that the Ricaras were
willing to follow the counsels we had given them, but a few of their
bad young men would not live in peace, but had joined the Sioux, and
thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These young men had, however,
been driven out of the villages, and as the Ricaras were now separated
from the Sioux, who were a bad people, and the cause of all their
misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the Mandans, and
would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of the chiefs
he said were desirous of visiting their great father, but as the chief
who went to the United States last summer had not returned, and they
had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they did not
wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to himself, he
would continue with his nation, to see that they followed our advice.
The sun being now very hot, the chief of the Chayennes invited us to
his lodge, which was at no great distance from the river. We followed
him, and found a very large lodge, made of twenty buffaloe skins,
surrounded by eighteen or twenty lodges, nearly equal in size. The
rest of the nation are expected to-morrow, and will make the number
of one hundred and thirty or fifty lodges, containing from three
hundred and fifty to four hundred men, at which the men of the nation
may be computed. These Chayennes are a fine looking people, of a
large stature, straight limbs, high cheek-bones and noses, and of a
complexion similar to that of the Ricaras. Their ears are cut at the
lower part, but few wear ornaments in them: the hair is generally
cut over the eyebrows and small ornaments fall down the cheeks, the
remainder being either twisted with horse or buffaloe hair, and divided
over each shoulder, or else flowing loosely behind. Their decorations
consist chiefly of blue beads, shells, red paint, brass rings, bears’
claws, and strips of otter skins, of which last they, as well as the
Ricaras, are very fond. The women are coarse in their features, with
wide mouths, and ugly. Their dress consists of a habit falling to the
midleg, and made of two equal pieces of leather, sewed from the bottom
with arm holes, with a flap hanging nearly half way down the body,
both before and behind. These are burnt various figures, by means of
a hot stick, and adorned with beads, shells, and elks’ tusks, which
all Indians admire. The other ornaments are blue beads in the ears,
but the hair is plain and flows down the back. The summer dress of the
men is a simple buffaloe robe, a cloth round the waist, moccasins,
and occasionally leggings. Living remote from the whites, they are
shy and cautious, but are peaceably disposed, and profess to make war
against no people except the Sioux, with whom they have been engaged
in contests immemorially. In their excursions they are accompanied by
their dogs and horses, which they possess in great numbers, the former
serving to carry almost all their light baggage. After smoking for some
time, captain Clarke gave a small medal to the Chayenne chief, and
explained at the same time the meaning of it. He seemed alarmed at this
present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of buffaloe meat, which he
gave to captain Clarke, and requested him to take back the medal, for
he knew that all white people were medicine, and he was afraid of the
medal, or of any thing else which the white people gave to the Indians.
Captain Clarke then repeated his intention in giving the medal, which
was the medicine his great father had directed him to deliver to all
chiefs who listened to his word and followed his counsels; and that as
he had done so, the medal was given as a proof that we believed him
sincere. He now appeared satisfied and received the medal, in return
for which he gave double the quantity of buffaloe meat he had offered
before. He seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and requested
that some traders might be sent among the Chayennes, who lived, he
said, in a country full of beaver, but did not understand well how to
catch them, and were discouraged from it by having no sale for them
when caught. Captain Clarke promised that they should be soon supplied
with goods, and taught the best mode of catching beaver.
The Bigwhite, chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length,
explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; and the Chayenne
observed that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault;
but at the end of the council the Mandan chief was treated with
great civility, and the greatest harmony prevailed among them. The
great chief, however, informed us, that none of the Ricaras could be
prevailed on to go with us till the return of the other chief, and
that the Chayennes were a wild people, and afraid to go. He invited
captain Clarke to his house, and gave him two carrots of tobacco, two
beaver skins, and a trencher of boiled corn and beans. It is the custom
of all the nations on the Missouri, to offer to every white man food
and refreshment when he first enters their tents.
Captain Clarke returned to the boats, where he found the chief of the
lower village, who had cut off part of his hair, and disfigured himself
in such a manner that we did not recognise him at first, until he
explained that he was in mourning for his nephew, who had been killed
by the Sioux. He proceeded with us to the village on the island, where
we were met by all the inhabitants. The second chief, on seeing the
Mandan, began to speak to him in a loud and threatning tone, till
captain Clarke declared that the Mandans had listened to our councils,
and that if any injury was done to the chief, we should defend him
against every nation. He then invited the Mandan to his lodge, and
after a very ceremonious smoking, assured captain Clarke that the
Mandan was as safe as at home, for the Ricaras had opened their ears to
our councils, as well as the Mandans. This was repeated by the great
chief, and the Mandan and Ricara chiefs now smoked and conversed in
great apparent harmony; after which we returned the boats. The whole
distance to-day was twenty-nine miles.
Friday, 22. It rained all night, so that we all rose this morning quite
wet, and were about proceeding, when captain Clarke was requested to
visit the chiefs. They now made several speeches, in which they said
that they were unwilling to go with us, until the return of their
countryman; and that, although they disliked the Sioux as the origin
of all their troubles, yet as they had more horses than they wanted,
and were in want of guns and powder, they would be obliged to trade
once more with them for those articles, after which they would break
off all connexion with them. He now returned to the boats, and after
taking leave of the people, who seemed to regret our departure, and
firing a salute of two guns, proceeded seventeen miles, and encamped
below Grouse island. We made only seventeen miles to-day, for we were
obliged to land near Wetarhoo river to dry our baggage, besides which
the sandbars are now unusually numerous as the river widens below the
Ricara villages. Captain Lewis is now so far recovered that he was able
to walk a little to-day for the first time. While here we had occasion
to notice that the Mandans as well as the Minnetarees and Ricaras keep
their horses in the same lodges with themselves.
Saturday, 23. We set out early, but the wind was so high, that soon
after passing the Sahwacanah, we were obliged to go on shore, and
remain till three o’clock, when a heavy shower of rain fell and the
wind lulled. We then continued our route, and after a day’s journey of
forty miles encamped. Whilst on shore we killed three deer and as many
elk. Along the river are great quantities of grapes and choke-cherries,
and also a species of currant which we have never seen before: it is
black, with a leaf much larger than that of the other currants, and
inferior in flavour to all of them.
Sunday, 24. We set out at sunrise, and at eight o’clock passed
Lahoocat’s island, opposite to the lower point of which we landed to
examine a stratum of stone, near the top of a bluff of remarkably black
clay. It is soft, white, and contains a very fine grit; and on being
dried in the sun will crumble to pieces. The wind soon after became so
high that we were obliged to land for several hours, but proceeded at
five o’clock. After making forty-three miles, we encamped at the gorge
of the Lookout bend of the Missouri. The Sioux have lately passed in
this quarter, and there is now very little game, and that so wild, that
we were unable to shoot any thing. Five of the hunters were therefore
sent ahead before daylight next morning.
Monday, 25, to hunt in the Pawnee island, and we followed them soon
after. At eight o’clock we reached the entrance of the Chayenne, where
we remained till noon, in order to take a meridian observation. At
three o’clock we passed the old Pawnee village, near which we had met
the Tetons in 1804, and encamped in a large bottom on the northeast
side, a little below the mouth of Notimber creek. Just above our camp
the Ricaras had formerly a large village on each side of the river,
and there are still seen the remains of five villages on the southwest
side, below the Chayenne, and one also on Lahoocat’s island; but
these have all been destroyed by the Sioux. The weather was clear and
calm, but by means of our oars we made forty-eight miles. Our hunters
procured nothing except a few deer.
The skirt of timber in the bend above the Chayenne is inconsiderable,
and scattered from four to sixteen miles on the southwest side of the
river, and the thickest part is from the distance of from ten to six
miles of the Chayenne. A narrow bottom of small cottonwood trees is
also on the northeast point, at the distance of four miles above the
river. A few large trees, and a small undergrowth of willows on the
lower side bottom on the Missouri half a mile, and extend a quarter of
a mile up the Chayenne: there is a bottom of cotton timber in the part
above the Chayenne. The Chayenne discharges but a little water at its
mouth, which resembles that of the Missouri.
Tuesday, 26. After A heavy dew we set out, and at nine o’clock reached
the entrance of Teton river, below which were a raft and a skin canoe,
which induced us to suspect that the Tetons were in the neighbourhood.
The arms were therefore put in perfect order, and every thing prepared
to revenge the slightest insult from those people, to whom it is
necessary to show an example of salutary rigour. We, however, went on
without seeing any of them, although we were obliged to land near Smoke
creek for two hours, to stop a leak in the periogue. Here we saw great
quantities of plums and grapes, but not yet ripe. At five o’clock we
passed Louisville’s fort, on Cedar island, twelve miles below which
we encamped, having been able to row sixty miles, with the wind ahead
during the greater part of the day.
Wednesday, 27. Before sunrise we set out with a stiff eastern breeze
in our faces, and at the distance of a few miles landed on a sandbar
near Tyler’s river, and sent out the hunters, as this was the most
favourable spot to recruit our stock of meat, which was now completely
exhausted. But after a hunt of three hours, they reported that no game
was to be found in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the
immense number of buffaloes which had recently passed over it; and
that they saw only a few buffaloe bulls, which they did not kill, as
they were quite unfit for use. Near this place we observed, however,
the first signs of the wild turkey; and not long after landed in the
Bigbend, and killed a fine fat elk, on which we feasted. Towards night
we heard the bellowing of the buffaloe bulls, on the lower island of
the Bigbend. We pursued this agreeable sound, and after killing some
of the cows, encamped on the island, forty-five miles from the camp of
last night.
Thursday, 28. We proceeded at an early hour, having previously
despatched some hunters ahead, with orders to join us at our old camp
a little above Corvus creek, where we intended remaining one day, in
order to procure the skins and skeletons of some animals, such as the
mule-deer, the antelope, the barking squirrel, and the magpie, which
we were desirous of carrying to the United States, and which we had
seen in great abundance. After rowing thirty-two miles we landed at
twelve, and formed a camp in a high bottom, thinly timbered and covered
with grass, and not crowded with musquetoes. Soon after we arrived
the squaws and several of the men went to the bushes near the river,
and brought great quantities of large well flavoured plums of three
different species.
The hunters returned in the afternoon, without being able to procure
any of the game we wished, except the barking squirrel, though they
killed four common deer, and had seen large herds of buffaloe, of which
they brought in two. They resumed their hunt in the morning,
Friday, 29, and the rest of the party were employed in dressing skins,
except two, who were sent to the village of the barking squirrels,
but could not see one of them out of their holes. At ten o’clock the
skins were dressed, and we proceeded; and soon passed the entrance of
White river, the water of which is at this time nearly the colour of
milk. The day was spent in hunting along the river, so that we did
not advance more than twenty-miles; but with all our efforts we were
unable to kill either a mule-deer or an antelope, though we procured
the common deer, a porcupine, and some buffaloe. These last animals are
now so numerous that from an eminence we discovered more than we had
ever seen before at one time; and if it be not impossible to calculate
the moving multitude, which darkened the whole plains, we are convinced
that twenty thousand would be no exaggerated number. With regard to
game in general, we observe that the greatest quantity of wild animals
are usually found in the country lying between two nations at war.
Saturday, 30. We set out at the usual hour, but after going some
distance were obliged to stop for two hours, in order to wait for
one of the hunters. During this time we made an excursion to a large
orchard of delicious plums, where we were so fortunate as to kill two
buck elks. We then proceeded down the river, and were about landing
at a place where we had agreed to meet all the hunters, when several
persons appeared on the high hills to the northeast, whom, by the
help of the spy-glass, we distinguished to be Indians. We landed on
the southwest side of the river, and immediately after saw, on a
height opposite to us, about twenty persons, one of whom, from his
blanket great-coat, and a handkerchief round his head, we supposed
to be a Frenchman. At the same time, eighty or ninety more Indians,
armed with guns and bows and arrows, came out of a wood some distance
below them, and fired a salute, which we returned. From their hostile
appearance, we were apprehensive that they might be Tetons; but as
from the country through which they were roving, it was possible that
they were Yanktons, Pawnees, or Mahas, and therefore less suspicious,
we did not know in what way to receive them. In order, however, to
ascertain who they were, without risk to the party, captain Clarke
crossed, with three persons who could speak different Indian languages,
to a sandbar near the opposite side, in hopes of conversing with them.
Eight young men soon met him on the sandbar, but none of them could
understand either the Pawnee or Maha interpreter. They were then
addressed in the Sioux language, and answered that they were Tetons,
of the band headed by the Black-buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was the
same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; and being now less anxious
about offending so mischievous a tribe, captain Clarke told them that
they had been deaf to our councils, had ill treated us two years ago,
and had abused all the whites who had since visited them. He believed
them, he added, to be bad people and they must therefore return to
their companions, for if they crossed over to our camp we would put
them to death. They asked for some corn, which captain Clarke refused;
they then requested permission to come and visit our camp, but he
ordered them back to their own people. He then returned, and all the
arms were prepared in case of an attack; but when the Indians reached
their comrades, and had informed their chiefs of our intention, they
all set out on their way to their own camp; but some of them halted on
a rising ground, and abused us very copiously, threatening to kill us
if we came across. We took no notice of this for some time, till the
return of three of our hunters, whom we were afraid the Indians might
have met; but as soon as they joined us, we embarked; and to see what
the Indians would attempt, steered near the side of their river. At
this the party on the hill seemed agitated, some set out for their
camp, others walked about and one man walked toward the boats and
invited us to land. As he came near, we recognised him to be the same
who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and who is considered as
the friend of the whites. Unwilling, however, to have any interview
with these people, we declined his invitation; upon which he returned
to the hill, and struck the earth three times with his gun, a great
oath among the Indians, who consider swearing by the earth as one of
the most sacred forms of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we
stopped on a bleak sandbar; where, however, we thought ourselves safe
from attack during the night, and also free from musquetoes. We had now
made only twenty-two miles; but in the course of the day had procured
a mule-deer, which we much desired. About eleven in the evening the
wind shifted to the northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied with
hard claps of thunder and lightning; after which the wind changed
to southwest, and blew with such violence that we were obliged to
hold the canoes for fear of their being driven from the sandbar; the
cables of two of them however broke, and two others were blown quite
across the river, nor was it till two o’clock that the whole party was
reassembled, waiting in the rain for daylight.