The party still pursue their route towards the Kooskooskee
on horseback with Wollawollah guides--character of the
country--the quamash and other flowering shrubs in bloom--the
party reach the Kinnooenim creek--they meet with an old
acquaintance called the Bighorn Indian--they arrive at the
mouth of the Kooskooskee--singular custom among the Chopunnish
women--difficulty of purchasing provisions from the natives,
and the new resort of the party to obtain them--the Chopunnish
style of architecture--captain Clarke turns physician, and
performs several experiments with success upon the natives,
which they reward--an instance of their honesty--the distress
of the Indians for want of provisions during the winter--the
party finally meet the Twistedhair, to whom was entrusted
their horses during their journey down--the quarrel between
that chief and another of his nation, on the subject of his
horses--the causes of this controversy stated at large--the two
chiefs reconciled by the interference of the party, and the
horses restored--extraordinary instance of Indian hospitality
towards strangers--a council held with the Chopunnish, and the
object of the expedition explained in a very circuitous route
of explanation--the party again perform medical cures--the
answer of the Chopunnish to the speech delivered at the
council, confirmed by a singular ceremony of acquiescence--they
promise faithfully to follow the advice of their visiters.
Friday, May 2. We despatched two hunters ahead; but the horse we had
yesterday purchased from the Chopunnish, although closely hobbled,
contrived to break loose in the night, and went back to rejoin his
companions. He was however overtaken and brought to us about one
o’clock, and we then set forward. For three miles we followed a hilly
road on the north side of the creek, opposite to a wide bottom, where
a branch falls in from the southwest mountains, which, though covered
with snow, are about twenty-five miles distant, and do not appear high.
We then entered an extensive level bottom, with about fifty acres of
land well covered with pine near the creek, and the long-leafed pine
occasionally on the sides of the hills along its banks. After crossing
the creek at the distance of seven miles from our camp, we repassed
it seven miles further, near the junction of one of its branches from
the northeast. The main stream here bears to the south, towards the
mountains where it rises, and its bottoms then become narrow, as the
hills are higher. We followed the course of this northeast branch in a
direction N. 45° E. for eight and three quarter miles, when having made
nineteen miles, we halted in a little bottom on the north side. The
creek is here about four yards wide, and as far as we can perceive, it
comes from the east, but the road here turns from it into the high open
plain. The soil of the country seems to improve as we advance, and this
afternoon we see, in the bottoms, an abundance of quamash now in bloom.
We killed nothing but a duck, though we saw two deer at a distance, as
well as many sandhill crows, curlews, and other birds common to the
prairies, and there is much sign of both beaver and otter, along the
creeks. The three young Wollawollahs continued with us. During the day
we observed them eating the inner part of the young succulent stem of
a plant very common in the rich lands on the Mississippi, Ohio and its
branches. It is a large coarse plant, with a ternate leaf, the leaflets
of which are three-lobed, and covered with a woolly pubescence, while
the flower and fructification resemble that of the parsnip. On tasting
this plant, we found it agreeable, and eat heartily of it without any
inconvenience.
Saturday, 3. We set out at an early hour, and crossed the high plains,
which we found more fertile and less sandy than below; yet, though the
grass is taller, there are very few aromatic shrubs. After pursuing
a course N. 25° E. for twelve miles, we reached the Kinnooenim. This
creek rises in the southwest mountains, and though only twelve yards
wide, discharges a considerable body of water into Lewis’s river, a
few miles above the narrows. Its bed is pebbled, its banks low, and
the hills near its sides high and rugged; but in its narrow bottoms
are found some cottonwood, willow, and the underbrush, which grows
equally on the east branch of the Wollawollah. After dining at the
Kinnooenim, we resumed our journey over the high plains, in the
direction of N. 45° E. and reached, at the distance of three miles,
a small branch of that creek about five yards wide. The lands in its
neighbourhood are composed of a dark rich loam; its hill sides, like
those of the Kinnooenim, are high, its bottoms narrow, and possess but
little timber. It increased however in quantity as we advanced along
the north side of the creek for eleven miles. At that distance we were
agreeably surprised by the appearance of Weahkoonut, or the Indian
whom we had called the Bighorn, from the circumstance of his wearing
a horn of that animal, suspended from his left arm. He had gone down
with us last year along Lewis’s river, and was highly serviceable in
preparing the minds of the natives for our reception. He is, moreover,
the first chief of a large band of Chopunnish; and hearing that we were
on our return, he had come with ten of his warriors to meet us. He
now turned back with us, and we continued up the bottoms of the creek
for two miles, till the road began to leave the creek, and cross the
hill to the plains. We therefore encamped for the night in a grove of
cottonwood, after we had made a disagreeable journey of twenty-eight
miles. During the greater part of the day the air was keen and cold,
and it alternately rained, hailed and snowed; but, though the wind blew
with great violence, it was fortunately from the southwest, and on our
backs. We had consumed at dinner the last of our dried meat, and nearly
all that was left of the dogs; so that we supped very scantily on the
remainder, and had nothing for to-morrow. Weahkoonut, however, assured
us that there was a house on the river at no great distance, where we
might supply ourselves with provisions. We now missed our guide and the
Wollawollahs, who left us abruptly this morning, and never returned.
After a disagreeable night, we collected our horses at an early hour.
Sunday, 4, and proceeded with a continuation of the same weather. We
are now nearer to the southwest mountains, which appear to become
lower as they advance towards the northeast. We followed the road
over the plains, north 60° east, for four miles to a ravine, where
was the source of a small creek, down the hilly and rocky sides of
which we proceeded for eight miles to its entrance into Lewis’s river,
about seven miles and a half above the mouth of the Kooskooskee. Near
this place we found the house of which Weahkoonut had mentioned, and
where we now halted for breakfast. It contained six families, but so
miserably poor that all we could obtain from them were two lean dogs
and a few large cakes of half cured bread, made of a root resembling
the sweet potatoe, of all which we contrived to form a kind of soup.
The soil of the plain is good, but it has no timber. The range of
southwest mountains is about fifteen miles above us, but continues
to lower, and is still covered with snow to its base. After giving
a passage to Lewis’s river, near their northeastern extremity, they
terminate in a high level plain between that river and the Kooskooskee.
The salmon not having yet called them to the rivers, the greater part
of the Chopunnish are now dispersed in villages through this plain, for
the purpose of collecting quamash and cows, which here grow in great
abundance, the soil being extremely fertile, and in many places covered
with the long-leafed pine, the larch, and balsam-fir, which contribute
to render it less thirsty than the open unsheltered plains. After our
repast we continued our route along the west side of the river, where
as well as on the opposite shore, the high hills approach it closely,
till at the distance of three miles we halted opposite to two houses:
the inhabitants consisted of five families of Chopunnish, among whom
were Teton, or Sky, the younger of the two chiefs who accompanied us
in the autumn to the great falls of the Columbia, and also our old
pilot who had conducted us down the river to the Columbia. They both
advised us to cross here, and ascend the Kooskooskee on the northeast
side, this being the shortest and best route to the forks of that
river, where we should find the Twistedhair, in whose charge we left
our horses, and to which place they promised to show us the way. We
did not hesitate to accept this offer, and therefore crossed with
the assistance of three canoes; but as the night was coming on, we
purchased a little wood and some roots of cows, and encamped, though
we had made only fifteen miles to-day. The evening proved cold and
disagreeable, and the natives crowded round our fire in such numbers
that we could scarcely cook or even keep ourselves warm. At these
houses of Chopunnish we observed a small hut with a single fire,
which we are informed is appropriated for women who are undergoing
the operation of the menses; there they are obliged to retreat; the
men are not permitted to approach within a certain distance of them,
and when any thing is to be conveyed to those deserted females, the
person throws it to them forty or fifty paces off, and then retires.
It is singular, indeed, that amongst the nations of the wilderness,
there should be found customs and rites so nearly resembling those of
the Jews. It is scarcely necessary to allude more particularly to the
uncleanness of Jewish females and the rites of purification.
Monday 5. We collected our horses, and at seven o’clock set forward
alone; for Weahkoonut, whose people resided above on the west side of
Lewis’s river, continued his route homeward when we crossed to the
huts. Our road was across the plains for four and a half miles, to
the entrance of the Kooskooskee. We then proceeded up that river, and
at five miles reached a large mat house, but could not procure any
provisions from the inhabitants, but on reaching another three miles
beyond, we were surprised at the liberality of an Indian, who gave
captain Clarke a very elegant gray mare, for which, all he requested
was a phial of eye-water. Last autumn, while we were encamped at the
mouth of the Chopunnish river, a man who complained of a pain in his
knee and thigh, was brought to us in hopes of receiving relief. The man
was to appearance recovered from his disorder, though he had not walked
for some time. But that we might not disappoint them, captain Clarke,
with much ceremony, washed and rubbed his sore limb, and gave him some
volatile liniment to continue the operation, which either caused, or
rather did not prevent his recovery. The man gratefully circulated our
praises, and our fame as physicians was increased by the efficacy of
some eye-water which we gave them at the same time. We are by no means
displeased at this new resource for obtaining subsistence, as they will
give us no provisions without merchandise, and our stock is now very
much reduced: we cautiously abstain from giving them any but harmless
medicines, and as we cannot possibly do harm, our prescriptions, though
unsanctioned by the faculty, may be useful, and are entitled to some
remuneration. Four miles beyond this house we came to another large
one, containing ten families, where we halted, and made our dinner
on two dogs and a small quantity of roots, which we did not procure
without much difficulty. Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing
by, and looking with great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor
half-starved puppy almost into captain Lewis’s plate, laughing heartily
at the humour of it. Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it
with great force into the fellow’s face, and seizing his tomahawk,
threatened to cut him down if he dared to repeat such insolence. He
immediately withdrew, apparently much mortified, and we continued our
repast of dog very quietly. Here we met our old Chopunnish guide, with
his family, and soon afterwards one of our horses, which had been
separated from the rest in the charge of the Twistedhair, and been
in this neighbourhood for several weeks, was caught and restored to
us. After dinner we proceeded to the entrance of Colter’s creek, at
the distance of four miles, and having made twenty and a half miles,
encamped on the lower side of it. Colter’s creek rises not far from
the Rocky mountains, and passing in the greater part of its course
through a country well supplied with pine, discharges a large body of
water. It is about twenty-five yards wide, with a pebbled bed and low
banks. At a little distance from us are two Chopunnish houses, one of
which contains eight families, and the other, which is by much the
largest we have ever seen, inhabited by at least thirty. It is rather a
kind of shed, built like all the other huts, of straw and mats in the
form of the roof of a house, one hundred and fifty-six feet long, and
about fifteen wide, closed at the ends, and having a number of doors
on each side. The vast interior is without partitions, but the fire
of each family is kindled in a row along the middle of the building,
and about ten feet apart. This village is the residence of one of the
principal chiefs of the nation, who is called Neeshnepahkeook, or
Cutnose, from the circumstance of having his nose cut from the stroke
of a lance in battle with the Snake Indians. We gave him a small medal,
but though he is a great chief, his influence among his own people
does not seem to be considerable, and his countenance possesses very
little intelligence. We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not
purchase any provisions, except a small quantity of the roots and
bread of the cows. They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and
made many applications for assistance, but we refused to do any thing
unless they gave us either dogs or horses to eat. We had soon nearly
fifty patients. A chief brought his wife with an abcess on her back,
and promised to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve
her. Captain Clarke, therefore, opened the abcess, introduced a tent,
and dressed it with basilicon. We prepared also, and distributed, some
doses of the flour of sulphur and cream of tarter, with directions for
its use. For these we obtained several dogs, but too poor for use,
and we therefore postponed our medical operations till the morning. In
the meantime a number of Indians, beside the residents of the village,
gathered about us or encamped in the woody bottom of the creek.
In the evening, we learnt by means of a Snake Indian, who happens to
be at this place, that one of the old men has been endeavouring to
excite prejudices against us, by observing that he thought we were bad
men, and came here, most probably, for the purpose of killing them. In
order to remove such impressions, we made a speech, in which, by means
of the Snake Indian, we told them our country and all the purposes of
our visit. While we were engaged in this occupation, we were joined by
Weahkoonut, who assisted us in effacing all unfavourable impressions
from the minds of the Indians. The following morning,
Tuesday 6, our practice became more valuable. The woman declared that
she had slept better than at any time since her illness. She was
therefore dressed a second time, and her husband, according to promise,
brought us a horse, which we immediately killed. Besides this woman,
we had crowds of other applicants, chiefly afflicted with sore eyes,
and after administering to them for several hours, found ourselves once
more in possession of a plentiful meal, for the inhabitants began to
be more accommodating, and one of them even gave us a horse for our
remedies to his daughter, a little girl, who was afflicted with the
rheumatism. We moreover, exchanged one of our horses with Weahkoonut,
by the addition of a small flag, which procured us an excellent sorrel
horse. We here found three men, of a nation called Skeetsomish, who
reside at the falls of a large river, emptying itself into the north
side of the Columbia. This river takes its rise from a large lake in
the mountains, at no great distance from the falls where these natives
live. We shall designate this river, hereafter, by the name of Clarke’s
river, as we do not know its Indian appellation, and we are the first
whites who have ever visited its principal branches; for the Great
Lake river mentioned by Mr. Fidler, if at all connected with Clarke’s
river, must be a very inconsiderable branch. To this river, moreover,
which we have hitherto called Clarke’s river, which rises in the
southwest mountains, we restored the name of Towahnahiooks, the name
by which it is known to the Eneeshurs. In dress and appearance these
Skeetsomish were not to be distinguished from the Chopunnish, but their
language is entirely different, a circumstance which we did not learn
till their departure, when it was too late to procure from them a
vocabulary.
About two o’clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied
by Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men, and a man who said he was the
brother of the Twistedhair. At four miles we came to a single house
of three families, but we could not procure provisions of any kind;
and five miles further we halted for the night near another house,
built like the rest, of sticks, mats and dried hay, and containing six
families. It was now so difficult to procure any thing to eat that
our chief dependence was on the horse which we received yesterday for
medicine; but to our great disappointment, he broke the rope by which
he was confined, made his escape, and left us supperless in the rain.
The next morning,
Wednesday 7, Weahkoonut and his party left us, and we proceeded up the
river with the brother of the Twistedhair as a guide. The Kooskooskee
is now rising fast, the water is clear and cold, and as all the socks
and shoals are now covered, the navigation is safe, notwithstanding the
rapidity of the current. The timber begins about the neighbourhood of
Colter’s creek, and consists chiefly of long-leafed pine. After going
four miles, we reached a house of six families, below the entrance of
a small creek, where our guide advised us to cross the river, as the
route was better, and the game more abundant near the mouth of the
Chopunnish. We therefore unloaded, and by means of a single canoe,
passed to the south side in about four hours, during which time we
dined. An Indian of one of the houses now brought two canisters of
powder, which his dog had discovered under ground in a bottom some
miles above. We immediately knew them to be the same we had buried
last autumn, and as he had kept them safely, and had honesty enough to
return them, we rewarded him inadequately, but as well as we could,
with a steel for striking fire. We set out at three o’clock, and
pursued a difficult and stony road for two miles, when we left the
river and ascended the hills on the right, which begin to resemble
mountains. But when we reached the heights we saw before us a beautiful
level country, partially ornamented with the long-leafed pine, and
supplied with an excellent pasture of thick grass, and a variety of
herbaceous plants, the abundant productions of a dark rich soil. In
many parts of the plain, the earth is thrown up into little mounds,
by some animal, whose habits most resemble those of the salamander;
but although these tracks are scattered over all the plains from the
Mississippi to the Pacific, we have never yet been able to obtain a
sight of the animal itself.
As we entered the plain Neeshnepahkee, the Cutnose, overtook us, and
after accompanying us a few miles, turned to the right to visit some of
his people, who were now gathering roots in the plain. Having crossed
the plain a little to the south of east, we descended a long steep
hill, at the distance of five miles, to a creek six yards wide, which
empties itself into the Kooskooskee. We ascended this little stream
for a mile, and encamped at an Indian establishment of six houses,
which seem to have been recently evacuated. Here we were joined by
Neeshnepahkee, and the Shoshonee who had interpreted for us on the
fifth.
From the plain we observed that the spurs of the Rocky mountains are
still perfectly covered with snow, which the Indians inform us is so
deep that we shall not be able to pass before the next full moon,
that is, the first of June: though others place the time for crossing
at a still greater distance. To us, who are desirous of reaching the
plains of the Missouri, if for no other reason, for the purpose of
enjoying a good meal, this intelligence was by no means welcome, and
gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter’s creek,
which formed our supper, part of which had already been our dinner.
Observing, however, some deer, and a great appearance of more, we
determined to make an attempt to get some of them, and therefore, after
a cold night’s rest,
Thursday, 8, most of the hunters set out at daylight. By eleven o’clock
they all returned, with four deer, and a duck of an uncommon kind,
which, with the remains of our horse, formed a stock of provisions such
as we had not lately possessed. Without our facilities of procuring
subsistence with guns, the natives of this country must often suffer
very severely. During last winter they were so much distressed for
food, that they were obliged to boil and eat the moss growing on
the pine trees. At the same period they cut down nearly all the
long-leafed pines, which we observed on the ground, for the purpose
of collecting its seed, which resemble in size and shape that of the
large sunflower, and when roasted or boiled, is nutritious and not
disagreeable to the taste. At the present season they peal this pine
tree, and eat the inner and succulent bark. In the creek near us, they
also procure trout by means of a falling trap, constructed on the same
plan with those common to the United States. We gave Neeshnepahkee
and his people some of our game and horse-beef, besides the entrails
of the deer, and four fawns which we found inside of two of them.
They did not eat any of it perfectly raw, but the entrails had very
little cooking, and the fawns were boiled, whole, and the hide, hair
and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was offended at not having as
much venison as he wished, and refused to interpret; but as we took no
notice of him, he became very officious in the course of a few hours,
and made many efforts to reinstate himself in our favour. The mother
of the Twistedhair, and Neeshnepahkeeook now drew a sketch, which we
preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky mountains. They make
the main southern branch of Lewis’s river, much more extensive than
the other, and place a great number of Shoshonee villages on its
western side. Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we set
out, in company with Neeshnepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother
of Twistedhair having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a
level plain, with little wood, through which we passed in a direction
parallel to the river, for four miles, when we met the Twistedhair and
six of his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part
of our saddles, last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavourable
conjectures on finding that he received us with great coldness.
Shortly after he began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was
answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel
had arisen between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterwards
understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and
were desirous of terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them
we should go on to the first water and encamp. We therefore set out,
followed by all the Indians, and having reached, at two miles distance,
a small stream, running to the right, we encamped with the two chiefs
and their little bands, forming separate camps, at a distance from
each other. They all appeared to be in an ill humour, and as we had
already heard reports that the Indians had discovered and carried
off our saddles, and that the horses were very much scattered, we
began to be uneasy, lest there should be too much foundation for the
report. We were therefore anxious to reconcile the two chiefs as soon
as possible, and desired the Shoshonee to interpret for us, while we
attempted a mediation; but he peremptorily refused to speak a word:
he observed that it was a quarrel between the two chiefs, and he had
therefore no right to interfere; nor could all our representations,
that by merely repeating what we said, he could not possibly be
considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce him to take any part
in it. Soon afterwards Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent
to invite the Twistedhair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the
invitation, and as we were smoking the pipe over our fire, he informed
us, that according to his promise, on leaving us at the falls of the
Colombia, he had collected our horses and taken charge of them, as
soon as he had reached home. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeooks
and Tunnachemootoolt (the Brokenarm) who, as we passed, had been on
a war party against the Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis’s
river, returned, and becoming jealous of him, because the horses had
been confided to his care, were constantly quarrelling with him. At
length, being an old man, and unwilling to live in perpetual dispute
with the two chiefs, he had given up the care of the horses, which
had consequently become very much scattered. The greater part of them
were, however, still in this neighbourhood; some in the forks between
the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, and three or four at the village of
the Brokenarm, about half a day’s march higher up the river. He added,
that on the rise of the river in the spring, the earth had fallen
from the door of the cache and exposed the saddles, some of which had
probably been lost; but as soon as he was acquainted with the situation
of them, he had them buried in another deposit, where they now are.
He now promised that if we would stay to-morrow at his house, a few
miles from this place, he would collect such of the horses as were in
the neighbourhood, and send his young men for those in the forks over
the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit the Brokenarm, who
was a chief of great eminence, and that he would himself guide us to
his dwelling. We told him that we meant to follow his advice in every
respect; that we had confided our horses to his charge, and expected
that he would deliver them to us, on which we should willingly pay him
the two guns and ammunition, as we had promised. With this he seemed
very much pleased, and declared that he would use every exertion to
restore our horses. We now sent for the Cutnose, and after smoking for
some time, took occasion to express to the two chiefs, our regret at
seeing a misunderstanding between them. Neeshnepahkeeook told us that
the Twistedhair was a bad old man, and wore two faces; for instead of
taking care of our horses, he had suffered his young men to hunt with
them, so that they had been very much injured, and that it was for
this reason that the Brokenarm and himself had forbidden him to use
them. The Twistedhair made no reply to this speech, after which we
told Neeshnepahkeeook of our arrangement for to-morrow. He appeared
very well satisfied, and said that he would himself go with us to the
Brokenarm, who expected that we would see him, and who had _two bad
horses for us_, an expression by which was meant that he intended
making us a present of two valuable horses. That chief, he also
informed us, had been apprised of our want of provisions, and sent four
young men to meet us with a supply; but having taken a different road,
they had missed us. After this interview we retired to rest at a late
hour, and in the morning,
Friday 9, after sending out several hunters, we proceeded through a
level rich country, similar to that of yesterday, for six miles, when
we reached the house of the Twistedhair, situated near some larch
trees, and a few bushes of balsam fir. It was built in the usual form,
of sticks, mats, and dried hay; and although it contained no more than
two fires and twelve persons, was provided with the customary appendage
of a small hut, to which females in certain situations were to retreat.
As soon as we halted at this place, we went with the Twistedhair to
the spot where he had buried our saddles, and two other young Indians
were despatched after the horses. Our hunters joined us with nothing
but a few pheasants, the only deer which they killed being lost in the
river. We therefore dined on soup, made of the roots of cows, which
we purchased of the Indians. Late in the afternoon, the Twistedhair
returned with about half the saddles we had left in the autumn, and
some powder and lead which was buried at the same place. Soon after,
the Indians brought us twenty-one of our horses, the greater part of
whom were in excellent order, though some had not yet recovered from
hard usage, and three had sore backs. We were however very glad to
procure them in any condition. Several Indians came down from the
village of Tunnachemootoolt, and passed the night with us. The Cutnose
and Twistedhair seem now perfectly reconciled, for they both slept in
the house of the latter. The man who had imposed himself upon us as a
brother of the Twistedhair, also came and renewed his advances, but we
now found that he was an impertinent proud fellow, of no respectability
in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate
his intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very
uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail
which began about seven o’clock, changed in about two hours to a heavy
fall of snow, which continued till after six o’clock
Saturday, 10, the next morning, when it ceased, after covering the
ground eight inches deep, and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon
collected our horses, and after a scanty breakfast of roots, set out on
a course S. 35° E. across the plains, the soil of which being covered
with snow, we could only judge from observing that near the ravines,
where it had melted, the mud was deep, black, and well supplied with
quamash. The road was very slippery, and the snow stuck to the horses’
feet and made them slip down very frequently. After going about
sixteen miles, we came to the hills of Commearp creek, which are six
hundred feet in height, but the tops of which only are covered with
snow, the lower parts as well as the bottoms of the creek having had
nothing but rain while it snowed in the high plains. On descending
these hills to the creek, we reached about four o’clock, the house
of Tunnachemootoolt, where was displayed the flag which we had given
him, raised on a staff: under this we were received with due form,
and then conducted a short distance to a good spot for an encampment,
on Commearp creek. We soon collected the men of consideration, and
after smoking, explained how destitute we were of provisions. The
chief spoke to the people, who immediately brought about two bushels
of dried quamash roots, some cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried
salmon trout: we thanked them for this supply, but observed that, not
being accustomed to live on roots alone, we feared that such diet might
make our men sick, and therefore proposed to exchange one of our good
horses, which was rather poor, for one that was fatter, and which we
might kill. The hospitality of the chief was offended at the idea of an
exchange; he observed that his people had an abundance of young horses,
and that if we were disposed to use that food, we might have as many as
we wanted. Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, without
asking any thing in return, an act of liberal hospitality much greater
than any we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky mountains, if it be
not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in
this part of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling
the natives that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we
were refreshed, we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare
our repast. During this time, a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp,
came from his village about six miles distant, with a party of fifty
men, for the purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle,
and he alighted and smoked with us, while his retinue, who had five
elegant horses, continued mounted at a short distance. While this
was going on, the chief had a large leathern tent spread for us, and
desired that we would make that our home whilst we remained at his
village. We removed there, and having made a fire, and cooked a supper
of horse-beef and roots, collected all the distinguished men present,
and spent the evening in explaining who we were, the objects of our
journey, and giving answers to their inquiries. To each of the chiefs,
Tunnachemootoolt, and Hohastillpilp, we gave a small medal, explaining
their use and importance, as honorary distinctions both among the
whites and red men. Our men are delighted at once more having made a
hearty meal. They have generally been in the habit of crowding the
houses of the Indians, and endeavouring to purchase provisions on the
best terms they could; for the inhospitality of the country was such,
that in the extreme of hunger they were often obliged to treat the
natives with but little ceremony, but this the Twistedhair had told us
was disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and liberal,
we ordered our men to treat them with great respect and not to throng
round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well together.
After our council, the Indians felt no disposition to retire, and our
tent was crowded with them all night. The next morning,
Sunday 11, we arose early and breakfasted again on horse-flesh. This
village of Tunnachemootoolt, is in fact only a single house, one
hundred and fifty feet long, built after the Chopunnish fashion, with
sticks, straw, and dried grass. It contains twenty-four fires, about
double that number of families, and might perhaps muster one hundred
fighting men. The usual outhouse, or retiring hut for females, is
not omitted. Their chief subsistence is roots, and the noise made
by the women in pounding them, gives the hearer the idea of a nail
factory. Yet notwithstanding so many families are crowded together,
the Chopunnish are much more cleanly in their persons and habitations,
than any people we have met since we left the Ottoes on the river
Platte. In the course of the morning, a chief named Yoompahkatim, a
stout good looking man, of about forty years of age, who had lost his
left eye, arrived from his village on the south side of Lewis’s river.
We gave him a small medal, and finding that there were now present
the principal chiefs of the Chopunnish nation, Tunnachemootoolt (the
Brokenarm) Neeshnepahkeeook, Yoompahkatim, and Hohastilpilp, whose rank
is in the order they are mentioned, we thought this a favourable moment
to explain to them the intentions of our government. We therefore
collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of the
relative situation of our country, on a mat, with a piece of coal,
detailed the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to
preserve harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of
establishing trading houses for their relief and support. It was not
without difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that
we were able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much
of which might have been lost or distorted, in its circuitous route
through a variety of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in
English to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau;
he interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language, and she then
put it into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explained
it to the Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded in
communicating the impression they wished, and then adjourned the
council; after which we amused them by showing the wonders of the
compass, the spy-glass, the magnet, the watch and air-gun, each of
which attracted its share of admiration. They said that after we had
left the Minnetarees last autumn, three young Chopunnish had gone over
to that nation, who had mentioned our visit and the extraordinary
articles we had with us, but they placed no confidence in it until now.
Among other persons present, was a youth, son of the Chopunnish chief,
of much consideration, killed not long since by the Minnetarees of Fort
de Prairie. As soon as the council was over, he brought a very fine
mare with a colt, and begged us to accept them as a proof that he meant
to pursue our advice, for he had opened his ears to our councils,
which had made his heart glad. We now resumed our medical labours, and
had a number of patients afflicted with scrophula, rheumatism and sore
eyes, to all which we administered very cheerfully as far as our skill
and supplies of medicine would permit. We also visited a chief who has
for three years past so completely lost the use of his limbs, that he
lies like a perfect corpse in whatever position he is placed, yet he
eats heartily, digests his food very well, has a regular pulse, and
retains his flesh; in short, were he not somewhat pale from lying so
long out of the sun, he might be mistaken for a man in perfect health.
This disease does not seem to be common; indeed, we have seen only
three cases of it among the Chopunnish, who alone are afflicted with
it. The scrophulous disorders we may readily conjecture to originate in
the long confinement to vegetable diet; which may perhaps also increase
the soreness of the eyes; but this strange disorder baffles at once our
curiosity and our skill. Our assistance was again demanded early the
next morning,
Monday 12, by a crowd of Indians, to whom we gave eye-water. Shortly
after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, to
decide on the answer to our speech; and the result was, as we were
informed, that they confided in what we had told them, and resolved
to follow our advice. This resolution once made, the principal
chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of the roots of
cows, and going round to all the kettles and baskets, in which his
people were cooking, thickened the soup into a kind of mush. He then
began a harangue, making known the result of the deliberations among
the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, concluded by an
invitation to all who agreed to the proceedings of the council, to
come and eat, while those who would not abide by the decision of the
chiefs were requested to show their dissent by not partaking in the
feast. During this animated harangue, the women, who were probably
uneasy at the prospect of forming this new connexion with strangers,
tore their hair, and wrung their hands with the greatest appearance of
distress. But the concluding appeal of the orator effectually stopped
the mouths of every malcontent, and the proceedings were ratified,
and the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity. The chiefs and
warriors then came in a body to visit us, as we were seated near our
tent, and at their instance, two young men, one of whom was the son
of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other of the youth whose father had been
killed by the Pahkees, presented to each of us a fine horse. We caused
the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a pound of
powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the young
men from whom we had received the horses. They then invited us into
the tent, and told us that they now wished to answer what we had told
them yesterday; but that many of their people were at that moment
waiting in great pain for our medical assistance. It was therefore
agreed that captain Clarke, who is the favourite physician, should
visit the sick, while captain Lewis would hold the council; which was
accordingly opened by an old man, the father of Hohastilpilp. He began
by declaring that the nation had listened with attention to our advice,
and had only one heart and one tongue in declaring their determination
to follow it. They knew well the advantages of peace, for they valued
the lives of their young men too much to expose them to the dangers
of war; and their desire to live quietly with their neighbours, had
induced them last summer to send three warriors with a pipe to the
Shoshonees, in the plains of Columbia, south of Lewis’s river. These
ministers of peace had been killed by the Shoshonees, against whom the
nation immediately took up arms. They had met them last winter, and
killed forty-two men, with the loss of only three of their own party;
so that having revenged their deceased brethren, they would no longer
make war on the Shoshonees, but receive them as friends. As to going
with us to the plains of the Missouri, they would be very willing to do
so, for though the Blackfoot Indians and the Pahkees had shed much of
their blood, they still wished to live in peace with them. But we had
not yet seen either of these nations, and it would therefore be unsafe
for them to venture, till they were assured of not being attacked by
them. Still, however, some of their young men would accompany us across
the mountains, and if they could effect a peace with their enemies,
the whole nation would go over to the Missouri in the course of next
summer. On our proposal that one of the chiefs should go with us to
the country of the whites, they had not yet decided, but would let us
know before we left them. But that, at all events, the whites might
calculate on their attachment and their best services, for though poor,
their hearts were good. The snow was, however, still so deep on the
mountains, that we should perish in attempting the passage, but if we
waited till after the next full moon, the snows would have sufficiently
melted to enable our horses to subsist on the grass. As soon as this
speech was concluded, captain Lewis replied at some length: with this
they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the pipe, made us a
present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave the Brokenarm
a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all who
should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it was
exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To the
Twistedhair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a
gun, an hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should
have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In
the course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh
exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humour. On our
expressing a wish to cross the river, and form a camp, in order to hunt
and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few
miles distant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to
cross. We invited the Twistedhair to settle near our camp, for he has
several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he
promised to do so. Having now settled all their affairs, the Indians
divided themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of
hiding a bone, already described, as common to all the natives of this
country, which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments.