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HISTORY
OF
THE EXPEDITION
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK,
TO
THE SOURCES OF THE MISSOURI,
THENCE
ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
AND DOWN THE
RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1804-5-6.
By order of the
GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES.
PREPARED FOR THE PRESS
BY PAUL ALLEN, ESQUIRE.
VOL. II.
_PHILADELPHIA_:
PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND
ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK.
J. Maxwell, Printer.
1814.
DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:
BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the
thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of America,
A.D. 1814, Bradford & Inskeep, of the said district, have deposited
in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as
proprietors, to the words following, to wit:
“History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and
Clark, to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky
Mountains, and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed
during the Years 1804-5-6, by order of the Government of the United
States. Prepared for the press by Paul Allen, Esquire.”
In conformity to the act of Congress of the United States, entitled
“An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies
of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such
copies during the time therein mentioned.” And also to the act,
entitled, “An act supplementary to an act, entitled, “An act for the
encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and
books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the time
therein mentioned,” and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of
designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.”
DAVID CALDWELL,
Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania.
CONTENTS
VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
The party proceed in canoes. Description of an Indian sweating
bath and burial place. Many dangerous rapids passed. Narrow
escape of one of the canoes. In the passage down they are
visited by several Indians, all of whom manifest pacific
dispositions. Description of the Sokulk tribe. Their dress,
and manner of building houses. Their pacific character. Their
habits of living. Their mode of boiling salmon. Vast quantities
of salmon amongst the Sokulk. Council held with this tribe. The
terror and consternation excited by captain Clark, concerning
which an interesting cause is related. Some account of the
Pisquitpaws. Their mode of burying the dead. 1
CHAPTER II.
The party in their passage still visited by the Indians.
Lepage’s river described. Immense quantities of salmon caught
by the Indians. Description of the river Towahnahiooks.
Indian mode of stacking fish, and preparing them for market.
Description of the great falls. Description of an Indian canoe.
Alarm excited by an anticipated attack from the Eheltoots. A
very dangerous rapid passed in safety, called by the Indians
the Falls. Account of the Indian houses in the neighbourhood.
Another dreadful rapid passed without injury. Some account of
the Chilluckittequaw Indians. Captain Clark examines the great
rapids. Description of an Indian burial place. The rapids
passed in safety. 27
CHAPTER III.
First appearance of tide water in the Columbia river.
Description of the Quicksand river. Some account of the
Skilloot Indians. The party pass the river Coweliskee. Some
account of the Wahkiacum Indians. Arrival on the borders of
the Pacific. Disagreeable and critical situation of the party
when first encamped. Their distress occasioned by the incessant
torrents of rain. Exposed for thirty days to this drenching
deluge, during which time their provisions are spoiled, and
most of their few articles of merchandise destroyed. Distress
of the party. Adventure of Shannon and his danger from the
Wahkiacum. Difficulty of finding a place suitable for a
permanent encampment. Visited by several Indians of different
tribes, on whom medals are bestowed. 58
CHAPTER IV.
Extravagant passion of the natives for blue beads, which
constitute amongst them the circulating medium of the country.
The party still in search of a suitable place for winter
quarters. Still suffering from the constant deluges of rain.
Are visited by the Indians, with whom they traffic but little,
on account of the extravagant prices they ask for every
article. Return of captain Lewis who reports that he has found
a suitable place for winter quarters. The rain still continues.
They prepare to form an encampment on a point of high land on
the banks of the river Nutel. Captain Clark goes with a party
to find a place suitable for the manufacture of salt. He is
hospitably entertained by the Clatsops. This tribe addicted to
the vice of gambling. Sickness of some of the party, occasioned
by the incessant rains. They form, notwithstanding, a permanent
encampment for their winter quarters. 83
CHAPTER V.
A party, headed by captain Clark, go in quest of a whale driven
on the shore of the Pacific to obtain some of the oil. They
pass the Clatsop river, which is described. The perilous nature
of this jaunt, and the grandeur of the scenery described.
Indian mode of extracting whale oil. The life of one of captain
Clark’s party preserved by the kindness of an Indian woman. A
short account of the Chinnooks, of the Clatsops, Killamucks,
the Lucktons, and an enumeration of several other tribes.
The manner of sepulchre among the Chinnooks, Clatsops, &c.
Description of their weapons of war and hunting. Their mode of
building houses. Their manufactures, and cookery. Their mode of
making canoes. Their great dexterity in managing that vehicle. 105
CHAPTER VI.
An account of the Clatsops, Killamucks, Chinnooks and
Cathlamahs. Their uniform customs of flattening the forehead.
The dress of these savages, and their ornaments, described.
The licensed prostitution of the women, married and unmarried,
of which a ludicrous instance is given. The character of their
diseases. The common opinion, that the treatment of women is
the standard by which the virtues of an Indian may be known,
combatted, and disproved by examples. The respect entertained
by these Indians for old age, compared with the different
conduct of those nations who subsist by the chase. Their mode
of government. Their ignorance of ardent spirits, and their
fondness for gambling. Their dexterity in traffic. In what
articles their traffic consists. Their extraordinary attachment
to blue beads, which forms their circulating medium. 130
CHAPTER VII.
A general description of the beasts, birds, and
plants, &c. found by the party in this expedition. 148
CHAPTER VIII.
Difficulty of procuring means of subsistence for the party.
They determine to resume their journey to the mountains.
They leave in the hands of the Indians a written memorandum,
importing their having penetrated to the Pacific, through the
route of the Missouri and Columbia, and through the Rocky
mountains. The party commence their return route. Dexterity of
the Cathlamah Indians in carving. Description of the Coweliskee
river. They experience much hospitality from the natives. An
instance of the extreme voracity of the vulture. The party
are visited by many strange Indians, all of whom are kind and
hospitable. Scarcity of game, and embarrassments of the party
on that account. Captain Clark discovers a tribe not seen in
the descent down the Columbia. Singular adventure to obtain
provisions from them. Particular description of the Multnomah
village and river. Description of mount Jefferson. Some
account by captain Clark of the Neerchokio tribe, and of their
architecture. Their sufferings by the small-pox. 202
CHAPTER IX.
Description of Wappatoo island, and the mode in which the
nations gather wappatoo. The character of the soil and its
productions. The numerous tribes residing in its vicinity. The
probability that they were all of the tribe of the Multnomahs
originally, inferred from similarity of dress, manners,
language, &c. Description of their dress, weapons of war, their
mode of burying the dead. Description of another village,
called the Wahelellah village. Their mode of architecture.
Extraordinary height of Beacon rock. Unfriendly character of
the Indians at that place. The party, alarmed for their safety,
resolve to inflict summary vengeance, in case the Wahelellah
tribe persist in their outrages and insults. Interview with
the chief of that tribe, and confidence restored. Difficulty
of drawing the canoes over the rapids. Visited by a party of
the Yehugh tribe. Short notice of the Weocksockwillackum tribe.
Curious phenomenon observed in the Columbia, from the Rapids to
the Chilluckittequaws. 223
CHAPTER X.
Captain Clark procures four horses for the transportation of
the baggage. Some further account of the Skilloot tribe. Their
joy at the first appearance of salmon in the Columbia. Their
thievish propensities. The party arrive at the village of
the Eneeshurs, where the natives are found alike unfriendly.
The party now provided with horses. The party prevented from
the exercise of hostility against this nation by a friendly
adjustment. The scarcity of timber so great that they are
compelled to buy wood to cook their provisions. Arrive at
the Wahhowpum village. Dance of the natives. Their ingenuity
in declining to purchase the canoes, on the supposition that
the party would be compelled to leave them behind defeated.
The party having obtained a complement of horses, proceed by
land. Arrive at the Pishquitpah village, and some account of
that people. Their frank and hospitable treatment from the
Wollawollahs. Their mode of dancing described. Their mode of
making fish-weirs. Their amiable character, and their unusual
affection for whites. 244
CHAPTER XI.
The party still pursue their route towards the Kooskooskee on
horseback with Wollawollah guides. Character of the country.
The quamash and other flowering shrubs in bloom. The party
reach the Kinnooenim creek. They meet with an old acquaintance
called the Bighorn Indian. They arrive at the mouth of the
Kooskooskee. Singular custom among the Chopunnish women.
Difficulty of purchasing provisions from the natives, and the
new resort of the party to obtain them. The Chopunnish style
of architecture. Captain Clark turns physician, and performs
several experiments with success upon the natives, which they
reward. An instance of their honesty. The distress of the
Indians for want of provisions during the winter. The party
finally meet the Twistedhair, to whom was entrusted their
horses during their journey down. The quarrel between that
chief and another of his nation, on the subject of his horses.
The cause of this controversy stated at large. The two chiefs
reconciled by the interference of the party, and the horses
restored. Extraordinary instance of Indian hospitality towards
strangers. A council held with the Chopunnish, and the object
of the expedition explained in a very circuitous route of
explanation. The party again perform medical cures. The answer
of the Chopunnish to the speech delivered at the council,
confirmed by a singular ceremony of acquiescence. They promise
faithfully to follow the advice of their visiters. 264
CHAPTER XII.
The party encamp amongst the Chopunnish, and receive further
evidences of their hospitality. The Indian mode of boiling
bear-flesh. Of gelding horses. Their mode of decoying the
deer within reach of their arrows. Character of the soil and
climate in the Rocky mountain. Varieties of climate. Character
of the natives. Their dress and ornaments. Mode of burying the
dead. The party administer medical relief to the natives. One
of the natives restored to the use of his limbs by sweating,
and the curious process by which perspiration was excited.
Another proof of Chopunnish hospitality. Success of their
sweating prescription on the Indian chief. Description of the
horned lizzard, and a variety of insects. The attachment of the
friends of a dying Indian to a tomahawk which he had stolen
from the party, and which they desired to bury with the body.
Description of the river Tommanamah. The Indians return an
answer to a proposition made by the party. 286
CHAPTER XIII.
The party mingle in the diversions of the Willetpos Indians,
a tribe hitherto unnoticed. Their joy on the prospect of a
return. Description of the vegetables growing on the Rocky
mountains. Various preparations made to resume their journey.
The party set out, and arrive at Hungry creek. The serious
and desponding difficulties that obstructed their progress.
They are compelled to return and wait for a guide across
the mountains. Their distress for want of provisions. They
resolve to return to the Quamash flats. They are at last so
fortunate as to procure Indian guides, with whom they resume
their journey to the falls of the Missouri. The danger of
the route described. Their scarcity of provisions, and the
danger of their journey. Their course lying along the ridges
of mountains. Description of the warm springs, where the party
encamp. The fondness of the Indians for bathing in them. 309
CHAPTER XIV.
The party proceed on their journey with their Indian guides,
and at length agree to divide, to take several routes, and
to meet again at the mouth of Yellowstone river. The route
of captain Lewis is to pursue the most direct road to the
falls of the Missouri, then to ascend Maria’s river, explore
the country, and to descend that river to its mouth. Captain
Lewis, accordingly, with nine men proceed up the eastern branch
of Clark’s river, and take leave of their Indian guides.
Description of that branch, and character of the surrounding
country. Description of the Cokalahishkit river. They arrive
at the ridge dividing the Missouri from the Columbia rivers.
Meet once more with the buffaloe and brown bear. Immense herds
of buffaloe discovered on the borders of Medicine river. The
party encamp on Whitebear islands. Singular adventure that
befel M’Neal. Captain Lewis, with three of his party proceed
to explore the source of Maria’s river. Tansy river described.
He reaches the dividing line of these two streams. General
character of the surrounding country. 329
CHAPTER XV.
Captain Lewis and his party still proceed on the route
mentioned in the last chapter, and arrive at the forks of
Maria’s river; of which river a particular description
is given. Alarmed by the evidence that they are in the
neighbourhood of unfriendly Indians, and much distressed for
want of provisions, the weather proving unfavourable, they
are compelled to return. The face of the country described.
Interview with the unfriendly Indians, called Minnetarees of
Fort de Prairie. Mutual consternation. Resolution of captain
Lewis. They encamp together for the night, apparently with
amicable dispositions. The conversation that ensued between
these new visitants. The conflict occasioned by the Indians
attempting to seize the rifles and horses of the party, in
which one is mortally wounded. Captain Lewis kills another
Indian, and his narrow escape. Having taken four horses
belonging to the Indians, they hastened with all expedition
to join the party attached to captain Clark. Arriving near
the Missouri they are alarmed by the sound of rifles, which
proves fortunately to be from the party of their friends,
under the command of serjeant Ordway. The two detachments
thus fortunately united, leave their horses, and descend the
Missouri in canoes. They continue their route down the river
to form a junction with captain Clark. Vast quantities of
game found in their passage down the river. Captain Lewis
accidentally wounded by one of his own party. They proceed
down the Missouri, and at length join captain Clark. 347
CHAPTER XVI.
The party commanded by captain Clark, previous to his being
joined by captain Lewis, proceed along Clark’s river, in
pursuance of the route mentioned in a preceding chapter. Their
sorry commemoration of our national anniversary. An instance of
Sacajawea’s strength of memory. Description of the river and of
the surrounding country as the party proceed. Several of the
horses belonging to the party supposed to be stolen by their
Indian neighbours. They reach Wisdom river. Extraordinary heat
of a spring. The strong attachment of the party for tobacco,
which they find on opening a cache. Serjeant Ordway recovers
the horses. Captain Clark divides his party, one detachment
of which was to descend the river: they reach Gallatin and
Jefferson rivers, of which a description is given. Arrive at
the Yellowstone river. Some account of Otter and Beaver rivers.
An example of Indian fortification. One of the party seriously
and accidentally wounded. Engaged in the construction of
canoes. Twenty-four horses stolen, probably by the Indians in
one night. 366
CHAPTER XVII.
Captain Clark proceeds with his party down the river.
Description of an Indian lodge. Serjeant Pryor arrives with
the horses left by the party when they embarked in their
canoes; his difficulty in bringing them on. Remarkable rock
discovered by captain Clark, and the beauty of the prospect
from the summit. They continue their route down the river,
of which a particular description is given, as well as the
surrounding country. Yellowstone and Bighorn rivers compared.
Great quantities of game found on the banks of the rivers.
Immense herds of buffaloe. Fierceness of the white bear.
Encamp at the junction of the Yellowstone and Missouri. A
general outline given of Yellowstone river, comprehending the
shoals; its entrance recommended for the formation of a trading
establishment. The sufferings of the party from the musquetoes.
Serjeant Pryor, who, with a detachment of the party, was to
have brought on the horses, arrives and reports that they were
all stolen by the Indians; deprived of these animals, they
form for themselves Indian canoes of the skins of beasts, and
of curious structure, with which they descend the river over
the most difficult shoals and dangerous rapids. Meet with two
white men unexpectedly, from whom they procure intelligence of
the Indians formerly visited by the party. 385
CHAPTER XVIII.
The party, while descending the river in their skin canoes,
are overtaken by the detachment under captain Lewis, and the
whole party, now once more happily united, descend the Missouri
together. They once more visit the Minnetaree Indians, and
hold a council with that nation as well as with the Mahahas.
Captain Clark endeavours to persuade their chiefs to accompany
him to the United States, which invitation they decline, on
account of their fears of the Sioux, in their passage down the
river. Colter, one of the party, requests and obtains liberty
to remain among the Indians for the purpose of hunting beaver.
Friendly deportment of the Mandans; council held by captain
Clark with the chiefs of the different villages; the chief
named the Bigwhite, with his wife and son, agree to accompany
the party to the United States, who takes an affecting farewell
of his nation. Chaboneau, with his wife and child, decline
visiting the United States, and are left among the Indians.
The party at length proceed on their journey, and find that
the course of the Missouri has, in some places, changed since
their passage up that river. They arrive among the Ricaras.
Character of the Chayennes; their dress, habits, &c. Captain
Clark offers to the chief of this nation a medal, which he at
first refuses, believing it to be medicine, but which he is
afterwards prevailed on to accept. The Ricaras refuse to permit
one of their party to accompany captain Clark to the United
states until the return of their chief, who had formerly gone.
The party proceed rapidly down the river. Prepare to defend
themselves against the Tetons, but receive no injury from them.
Incredible numbers of buffaloe seen near White river. They
meet, at last, with the Tetons, and refuse their invitation to
land. Intrepidity of captain Clark. 403
CHAPTER XIX.
The party return in safety to St. Louis. 423
Appendix. 435
LEWIS AND CLARKE’S EXPEDITION UP THE MISSOURI.
CHAPTER I.
The party proceed in canoes--description of an Indian sweating
bath and burial place--many dangerous rapids passed--narrow
escape of one of the canoes--in the passage down they are
visited by several Indians, all of whom manifest pacific
dispositions--description of the Sokulk tribe--their dress,
and manner of building houses--their pacific character--their
habits of living--their mode of boiling salmon--vast quantities
of salmon amongst the Sokulk--council held with this tribe--the
terror and consternation excited by captain Clarke, concerning
which an interesting cause is related--some account of the
Pisquitpaws--their mode of burying the dead.
Friday, October 11, 1805. This morning the wind was from the east, and
the weather cloudy. We set out early, and at the distance of a mile
and a half reached a point of rocks in a bend of the river towards
the left, near to which was an old Indian house, and a meadow on the
opposite bank. Here the hills came down towards the water, and formed
by the rocks, which have fallen from their sides, a rapid over which we
dragged the canoes. We passed, a mile and a half further, two Indian
lodges in a bend towards the right, and at six miles from our camp of
last evening reached the mouth of a brook on the left. Just above this
stream we stopped for breakfast at a large encampment of Indians on the
same side: we soon began to trade with them for a stock of provisions,
and were so fortunate as to purchase seven dogs and all the fish they
would spare; while this traffic was going on, we observed a vapour bath
or sweating house in a different form from that used on the frontiers
of the United States, or in the Rocky mountains. It was a hallow square
of six or eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with
mud the other three sides, and covering the whole completely except
an aperture about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by
this hole, taking with them a number of heated stones, and jugs of
water; and after being seated round the room, throw the water on the
stones till the steam becomes of a temperature sufficiently high for
their purposes. The baths of the Indians in the Rocky mountains is of
different sizes, the most common being made of mud and sticks like an
oven, but the mode of raising the steam is exactly the same. Among
both these nations it is very uncommon for a man to bathe alone, he is
generally accompanied by one or sometimes several of his acquaintances;
indeed it is so essentially a social amusement, that to decline going
in to bathe when invited by a friend is one of the highest indignities
which can be offered to him. The Indians on the frontiers generally
use a bath which will accommodate only one person, and is formed of
a wickered work of willows about four feet high, arched at the top,
and covered with skins. In this the patient sits till by means of
the heated stones and water he has perspired sufficiently. Almost
universally these baths are in the neighbourhood of running water,
into which the Indians plunge immediately on coming out of the vapour
bath, and sometimes return again, and subject themselves to a second
perspiration. This practice is, however, less frequent among our
neighbouring nations than those to the westward. This bath is employed
either for pleasure or for health, and is used indiscriminately for
rheumatism, venereal, or in short for all kinds of diseases.
On leaving this encampment we passed two more rapids, and some swift
water, and at the distance of four and a half miles reached one which
was much more difficult to pass. Three miles beyond this rapid, are
three huts of Indians on the right, where we stopped and obtained
in exchange for a few trifles some pashequa roots, five dogs and a
small quantity of dried fish. We made our dinner of part of each of
these articles, and then proceeded on without any obstruction, till
after making twelve and a half miles we came to a stony island on the
right side of the river, opposite to which is a rapid, and a second
at its lower point. About three and a half miles beyond the island is
a small brook which empties itself into a bend on the right, where we
encamped at two Indian huts, which are now inhabited. Here we met two
Indians belonging to a nation who reside at the mouth of this river.
We had made thirty-one miles to-day, although the weather was warm,
and we found the current obstructed by nine different rapids, more or
less difficult to pass. All these rapids are fishing places of great
resort in the season, and as we passed we observed near them, slabs
and pieces of split timber raised from the ground, and some entire
houses which are vacant at present, but will be occupied as soon as
the Indians return from the plains on both sides of the river, where
our chief informs us they are now hunting the antelope. Near each of
these houses is a small collection of graves, the burial places of
those who frequent these establishments. The dead are wrapped up in
robes of skins, and deposited in graves, which are covered over with
earth and marked or secured by little pickets or pieces of wood, stuck
promiscuously over and around it. The country on both sides, after
mounting a steep ascent of about two hundred feet, becomes an open,
level and fertile plain, which is, however, as well as the borders of
the river itself, perfectly destitute of any kind of timber; and the
chief growth which we observed consisted of a few low blackberries.
We killed some geese and ducks. The wind in the after part of the day
changed to the southwest and became high, but in the morning,
Saturday 12, it shifted to the east, and we had a fair cool morning.
After purchasing all the provisions these Indians would spare, which
amounted to only three dogs and a few fish, we proceeded. We soon
reached a small island, and in the course of three miles passed three
other islands nearly opposite to each other, and a bad rapid on the
left in the neighbourhood of them. Within the following seven miles we
passed a small rapid, and an island on the left, another stony island
and a rapid on the right, just below which a brook comes in on the
same side, and came to a bend towards the right opposite to a small
island. From this place we saw some Indians on the hills, but they were
too far off for us to have any intercourse, and showed no disposition
to approach us. After going on two miles to a bend towards the left,
we found the plains, which till now had formed rugged cliffs over the
river, leaving small and narrow bottoms, become much lower on both
sides, and the river itself widens to the space of four hundred yards,
and continues for the same width, the country rising by a gentle ascent
towards the high plains. At two and a half miles is a small creek on
the left opposite to an island. For the three following miles, the
country is low and open on both sides, after which it gradually rises
till we reached a bend of the river towards the right, three and a half
miles further, in the course of which we passed a rapid and an island.
The wind now changed to the southwest, and became violent. We passed an
island at the distance of four miles, another one mile beyond it, where
the water was swift and shallow, and two miles further, a rapid at the
upper point of a small stony island. We went along this island by the
mouth of a brook on the right, and encamped on the same side opposite
to a small island close under the left shore. Our day’s journey had
been thirty miles, and we might have gone still further, but as the
evening was coming on we halted at the head of a rapid, which the
Indians represented as dangerous to pass, for the purpose of examining
it before we set out in the morning. The country has much the same
appearance as that we passed yesterday, consisting of open plains,
which when they approach the water are faced with a dark-coloured
rugged stone. The river is as usual much obstructed by islands and
rapids, some of which are difficult to pass. Neither the plains nor the
borders of the river possess any timber, except a few hackberry bushes
and willows, and as there is not much driftwood, fuel is very scarce.
Sunday 13. The morning was windy and dark, and the rain which began
before daylight, continued till near twelve o’clock. Having viewed
very accurately the whole of this rapid we set out, the Indians going
on before us to pilot the canoes. We found it, as had been reported, a
very dangerous rapid, about two miles in length, and strewed with rocks
in every direction, so as to require great dexterity to avoid running
against them. We however passed through the channel, which is towards
the left, and about the centre of the rapid, without meeting with any
accident. Two miles below it we had another bad rapid, a mile beyond
which is a large creek in a bend to the left. This we called Kimooenim
creek.
On leaving it the river soon became crowded with rough black rocks,
till at the distance of a mile it forms a rapid which continues for
four miles, and during the latter part of it for a mile and a half,
the whole river is compressed into a narrow channel, not more than
twenty-five yards wide. The water happened to be low as we passed,
but during the high waters, the navigation must be very difficult.
Immediately at the end of this rapid, is a large stream in a bend to
the right, which we called Drewyer’s river, after George Drewyer one of
the party. A little below the mouth of this river is a large fishing
establishment, where there are the scaffolds and timbers of several
houses piled up against each other, and the meadow adjoining contains
a number of holes, which seem to have been used as places of deposits
for fish for a great length of time. There were no entire houses
standing, and we saw only two Indians who had visited the narrows,
but we were overtaken by two others, who accompanied us on horseback
down the river, informing us that they meant to proceed by land down
to the great river. Nine and a half miles below Drewyer’s river, we
passed another rapid, and three and a half miles farther reached some
high cliffs in a bend to the left. Here after passing the timbers of a
house, which were preserved on forks, we encamped on the right side,
near a collection of graves, such as we had seen above. The country
was still an open plain without timber, and our day’s journey had
no variety, except the fishing houses which are scattered near the
situations convenient for fishing, but are now empty. Our two Indian
companions spent the night with us.
Monday 14. The wind was high from the southwest during the evening,
and this morning it changed to the west, and the weather became very
cold until about twelve o’clock, when it shifted to the southwest, and
continued in that quarter during the rest of the day. We set out early,
and after passing some swift water, reached at two and a half miles
a rock of a very singular appearance. It was situated on a point to
the left, at some distance from the ascending country, very high and
large, and resembling in its shape the hull of a ship. At five miles
we passed a rapid; at eight another rapid, and a small island on the
right, and at ten and a half a small island on the right. We halted a
mile and a half below for the purpose of examining a much larger and
more dangerous rapid than those we had yet passed. It is three miles in
length, and very difficult to navigate. We had scarcely set out, when
three of the canoes stuck fast in endeavouring to avoid the rocks in
the channel; soon after in passing two small rocky islands, one of the
canoes struck a rock, but was prevented from upsetting, and fortunately
we all arrived safe at the lower end of the rapid. Here we dined, and
then proceeded, and soon reached another rapid on both sides of the
river, which was divided by an island.
As we were descending it one of the boats was driven crosswise against
a rock in the middle of the current. The crew attempted to get her
off, but the waves dashed over her, and she soon filled; they got out
on the rock and held her above water with great exertion, till another
canoe was unloaded and sent to her relief; but they could not prevent
a great deal of her baggage from floating down the stream. As soon as
she was lightened, she was hurried down the channel leaving the crew on
the rock. They were brought off by the rest of the party, and the canoe
itself, and nearly all that had been washed overboard was recovered.
The chief loss was the bedding of two of the men, a tomahawk, and some
small articles. But all the rest were wet, and though by drying we were
able to save the powder, all the loose packages of which were in this
boat, yet we lost all the roots and other provisions, which are spoilt
by the water. In order to diminish the loss as far as was in our power,
we halted for the night on an island, and exposed every thing to dry.
On landing we found some split timber for houses which the Indians
had very securely covered with stone, and also a place where they had
deposited their fish. We have hitherto abstained scrupulously from
taking any thing belonging to the Indians; but on this occasion we were
compelled to depart from this rule; and as there was no other timber to
be found in any direction for firewood, and no owner appeared from whom
it could be purchased, we used a part of these split planks, bearing in
mind our obligation to repay the proprietor whenever we should discover
him. The only game which we observed were geese and ducks, of the
latter we killed some, and a few of the blue-winged teal. Our journey
was fifteen miles in length.
Tuesday 15. The morning was fair, and being obliged to remain for the
purpose of drying the baggage, we sent out the hunters to the plains,
but they returned at ten o’clock, without having seen even the tracks
of any large game, but brought in three geese and two ducks. The plains
are waving, and as we walked in them, we could plainly discover a
range of mountains bearing southeast and northwest, becoming higher
as they advanced towards the north, the nearest point bearing south
about sixty miles from us. Our stores being sufficiently dry to be
reloaded, and as we shall be obliged to stop for the purpose of making
some celestial observations at the mouth of the river, which cannot be
at a great distance, we concluded to embark and complete the drying at
that place; we therefore set out at two o’clock. For the first four
miles we passed three islands, at the lower points of which were the
same number of rapids, besides a fourth at a distance from them. During
the next ten miles we passed eight islands and three more rapids, and
reached a point of rocks on the left side. The islands were of various
sizes, but were all composed of round stone and sand; the rapids were
in many places difficult and dangerous to pass. About this place
the country becomes lower than usual, the ground over the river not
being higher than ninety or a hundred feet, and extending back into
a waving plain. Soon after leaving this point of rocks, we entered a
narrow channel formed by the projecting cliffs of the bank, which rise
nearly perpendicular from the water. The river is not however rapid,
but gentle and smooth during its confinement, which lasts for three
miles when it falls, or rather widens, into a kind of basin nearly
round, and without any perceptible current. After passing through this
basin, we were joined by the three Indians who had piloted us through
the rapids since we left the forks, and who in company with our two
chiefs had gone before us. They had now halted here to warn us of a
dangerous rapid, which begins at the lower point of the basin. As the
day was too far spent to descend it, we determined to examine before we
attempted it, and therefore landed near an island at the head of the
rapid, and studied particularly all its narrow and difficult parts.
The spot where we landed was an old fishing establishment, of which
there yet remained the timbers of a house carefully raised on scaffolds
to protect them against the spring tide. Not being able to procure any
other fuel, and the night being cold, we were again obliged to use the
property of the Indians, who still remain in the plains hunting the
antelope. Our progress was only twenty miles in consequence of the
difficulty of passing the rapids. Our game consisted of two teal.
Wednesday, 16. Having examined the rapids, which we found more
difficult than the report of the Indians had induced us to believe,
we set out early, and putting our Indian guide in front, our smallest
canoe next, and the rest in succession, began the descent: the passage
proved to be very disagreeable; as there is a continuation of shoals
extending from bank to bank for the distance of three miles, during
which the channel is narrow and crooked, and obstructed by large
rocks in every direction, so as to require great dexterity to avoid
being dashed on them. We got through the rapids with no injury to
any of the boats except the hindmost, which ran on a rock; but by
the assistance of the other boats, and of the Indians who were very
alert, she escaped, though the baggage she contained was wet. Within
three miles after leaving the rapid we passed three small islands,
on one of which were the parts of a house put on scaffolds as usual,
and soon after came to a rapid at the lower extremity of three small
islands; and a second at the distance of a mile and a half below them;
reaching six miles below the great rapid a point of rocks at a rapid
opposite to the upper point of a small island on the left. Three
miles further is another rapid; and two miles beyond this a very bad
rapid, or rather a fall of the river: this, on examination, proved
so difficult to pass, that we thought it imprudent to attempt, and
therefore unloaded the canoes and made a portage of three quarters of
a mile. The rapid, which is of about the same extent, is much broken
by rocks and shoals, and has a small island in it on the right side.
After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating
were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great
haste: we received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece
of tobacco to smoke with their tribe: on receiving the present they set
out to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they
remained in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of
our two chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our
approach and of our friendly dispositions towards them. After dinner
we reloaded the canoes and proceeded: we soon passed a rapid opposite
to the upper point of a sandy island on the left, which has a smaller
island near it. At three miles is a gravelly bar in the river: four
miles beyond this the Kimooenim empties itself into the Columbia, and
at its mouth has an island just below a small rapid. We halted above
the point of junction on the Kimooenim to confer with the Indians,
who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On landing we were
met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were indebted for
this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed us a few days
since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of influence, and
harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with the Indians,
we formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, near to which
we found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old chiefs with
the stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. We had scarcely
fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief came from the
Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at the head of
nearly two hundred men: they formed a regular procession, keeping time
to the noise, rather the music of their drums, which they accompanied
with their voices. As they advanced they formed a semicircle round us,
and continued singing for some time: we then smoked with them all, and
communicated, as well as we could by signs, our friendly intentions
towards all nations, and our joy at finding ourselves surrounded by
our children: we then proceeded to distribute presents to them, giving
the principal chief a large medal, a shirt and handkerchief; to the
second chief, a medal of a smaller size, and to a third chief who came
down from some of the upper villages, a small medal and a handkerchief.
This ceremony being concluded they left us; but in the course of the
afternoon several of them returned and remained with us till a late
hour. After they had dispersed we proceeded to purchase provisions, and
were enabled to collect seven dogs, to which some of the Indians added
small presents of fish, and one of them gave us twenty pounds of fat
dried horse-flesh.
Thursday, October 17. The day being fair we were occupied in making
the necessary observations for determining our longitude, and obtained
a meridian altitude, from which it appeared that we were in latitude
46° 15´ 13´´ 9´´´. We also measured the two rivers by angles, and
found that at the junction the Columbia is nine hundred and sixty
yards wide, and Lewis’s river five hundred and seventy-five; but soon
after they unite, the former widens to the space of from one to three
miles, including the islands. From the point of junction the country
is a continued plain, which is low near the water, from which it
rises gradually, and the only elevation to be seen is a range of high
country running from the northeast towards the southwest, where it
joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the opposite
side about two miles from the Columbia. There is through this plain
no tree and scarcely any shrub, except a few willow bushes; and even
of smaller plants there is not much more than the prickly pear, which
is in great abundance, and is even more thorny and troublesome than
any we have yet seen. During this time the principal chief came down
with several of his warriors and smoked with us: we were also visited
by several men and women, who offered dogs and fish for sale, but as
the fish was out of season, and at present abundant in the river, we
contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs we could obtain. The
nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; and with them
are united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch,
emptying itself into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of
the latter river, and whose name is Chimnapum. The language of both
these nations, of each of which we obtained a vocabulary, differs but
little from each other, or from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the
Kooskooskee and Lewis’s river. In their dress and general appearance
also they resemble much those nations; the men wearing a robe of deer
or antelope skin, under which a few of them have a short leathern
shirt. The most striking difference between them is among the females,
the Sokulk women being more inclined to corpulency than any we have
yet seen: their stature is low, their faces broad, and their heads
flattened in such a manner that the forehead is in a straight line
from the nose to the crown of the head: their eyes are of a dirty
sable, their hair too is coarse and black, and braided as above without
ornament of any kind: instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, long
leathern shirts, highly decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk
females have no other covering but a truss or piece of leather tied
round the hips and then drawn tight between the legs. The ornaments
usually worn by both sexes are large blue or white beads, either
pendant from their ears, or round the necks, wrists, and arms: they
have likewise bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, and some trinkets
of shells, fish bones, and curious feathers. The houses of the Sokulks
are made of large mats of rushes, and are generally of a square
or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to sixty feet, and
supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet high: the top
is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen inches the
whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the light and
suffering the smoke to pass through: the roof is nearly flat, which
seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country, and
the house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle
of the large room, and immediately under the hole in the roof: the
rooms are ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing tackle,
as well as the bow for each inhabitant, and a large quiver of arrows,
which are headed with flint stones.
The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in
a state of comparative happiness. The men like those on the Kimooenim,
are said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom we observe
the husband shares the labours of procuring subsistence much more than
is usual among savages. What may be considered as an unequivocal proof
of their good disposition, is the great respect which was shown to old
age. Among other marks of it, we observed in one of the houses an old
woman perfectly blind, and who we were informed had lived more than a
hundred winters. In this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best
position in the house, seemed to be treated with great kindness, and
whatever she said was listened to with much attention. They are by no
means intrusive, and as their fisheries supply them with a competent,
if not an abundant subsistence, although they receive thankfully
whatever we choose to give, they do not importune us by begging. The
fish is, indeed, their chief food, except the roots, and the casual
supplies of the antelope, which to those who have only bows and arrows,
must be very scanty. This diet may be the direct or the remote cause
of the chief disorder which prevails among them, as well as among the
Flatheads, on the Kooskooskee and Lewis’s river. With all these Indians
a bad soreness of the eyes is a very common disorder, which is suffered
to ripen by neglect, till many are deprived of one of their eyes, and
some have totally lost the use of both. This dreadful calamity may
reasonably, we think, be imputed to the constant reflection of the sun
on the waters where they are constantly fishing in the spring, summer
and fall, and during the rest of the year on the snows of a country
which affords no object to relieve the sight. Among the Sokulks too,
and indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence is fish, we
have observed that bad teeth are very general: some have the teeth,
particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and many
of both sexes, and even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely.
This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among the
Indians, either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar
to the inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one
principal cause of it, the manner in which they eat their food. The
roots are swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently nearly
covered with a gritty sand: so little idea have they that this is
offensive, that all the roots they offer us for sale are in the same
condition. A second and a principal cause may be their great use of
the dried salmon, the bad effects of which are most probably increased
by their mode of cooking it, which is simply to warm, and then swallow
the rind, scales and flesh without any preparation. The Sokulks possess
but few horses, the greater part of their labours being performed in
canoes. Their amusements are similar to those of the Missouri Indians.
In the course of the day captain Clarke, in a small canoe with two
men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles he passed
an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which is a small
and not a dangerous rapid. On the left bank of the river opposite to
this river is a fishing place, consisting of three mat houses. Here
were great quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds: and indeed from
the mouth of the river upwards he saw immense numbers of dead salmon
strewed along the shore or floating on the surface of the water, which
is so clear that the salmon may be seen swimming in the water at the
depth of fifteen or twenty feet. The Indians who had collected on the
banks to view him, now joined him in eighteen canoes, and accompanied
him up the river. A mile above the rapids he came to the lower point of
an island where the course of the river, which had been from its mouth
north 83° west, now became due west. He proceeded in that direction,
when observing three houses of mats at a short distance he landed to
visit them. On entering one of the houses he found it crowded with men,
women and children, who immediately provided a mat for him to sit on,
and one of the party undertook to prepare something to eat. He began
by bringing in a piece of pine wood that had drifted down the river,
which he split into small pieces, with a wedge made of the elks’ horn,
by means of a mallet of stone curiously carved. The pieces were then
laid on the fire, and several round stones placed upon them: one of
the squaws now brought a bucket of water, in which was a large salmon
about half dried, and as the stones became heated, they were put into
the bucket till the salmon was sufficiently boiled for use. It was then
taken out, put on a platter of rushes neatly made, and laid before
captain Clarke, and another was boiled for each of his men. During
these preparations he smoked with those about him who would accept
of tobacco, but very few were desirous of smoking, a custom which is
not general among them, and chiefly used as a matter of form in great
ceremonies. After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavour,
captain Clarke set out, and at the distance of four miles from the
last island, came to the lower point of another near the left shore,
where he halted at two large mat houses. Here as at the three houses
below, the inhabitants were occupied in splitting and drying salmon.
The multitudes of this fish are almost inconceivable. The water is
so clear that they can readily be seen at the depth of fifteen or
twenty feet, but at this season they float in such quantities down
the stream, and are drifted ashore, that the Indians have only to
collect, split and dry them on the scaffolds. Where they procure the
timber of which these scaffolds are composed he could not learn, but
as there are nothing but willow bushes to be seen for a great distance
from the place, it rendered very probable, what the Indians assured
him by signs, that they often used dried fish as fuel for the common
occasions of cooking. From this island they showed him the entrance of
a western branch of the Colombia, called the _Tapteal_, which as far as
could be seen bears nearly west, and empties itself about eight miles
above into the Columbia; the general course of which is northwest:
towards the southwest a range of highland runs parallel to the river,
at the distance of two miles on the left, while on the right side the
country is low and covered with the prickly pear, and a weed or plant
two or three feet high resembling whins. To the eastward is a range
of mountains about fifty or sixty miles distant, which bear north and
south; but neither in the low grounds, nor in the highlands is any
timber to be seen. The evening coming on he determined not to proceed
further than the island, and therefore returned to camp, accompanied
by three canoes, which contained twenty Indians. In the course of his
excursion he shot several grouse and ducks, and received some presents
of fish, for which he gave in return small pieces of riband. He also
killed a prairie cock, an animal of the pheasant kind, but about the
size of a small turkey. It measured from the beak to the end of the
toe two feet six inches and three quarters, from the extremity of the
wings three feet six inches, and the feathers of the tail were thirteen
inches long. This bird we have seen no where except on this river. Its
chief food is the grasshopper, and the seed of the wild plant which is
peculiar to this river and the upper parts of the Missouri.
The men availed themselves of this day’s rest to mend their clothes,
dressing skins, and putting their arms in complete order, an object
always of primary concern, but particularly at a moment when we are
surrounded by so many strangers.
Friday 18. We were visited this morning by several canoes of Indians,
who joined those who were already with us, and soon opened a numerous
council. We informed them as we had done all the other Indian nations
of our friendship for them, and of our desire to promote peace among
all our red children in this country. This was conveyed by signs
through the means of our two chiefs, and seemed to be perfectly
understood. We then made a second chief, and gave to all the chiefs
a string of wampum, in remembrance of what we had said. Whilst
the conference was going on four men came in a canoe from a large
encampment on an island about eight miles below, but after staying a
few minutes returned without saying a word to us. We now procured from
the principal chief and one of the Cuimnapum nation a sketch of the
Columbia, and the tribes of his nation living along its banks and those
of the Tapteet. They drew it with a piece of coal on a robe, and as we
afterwards transferred to paper, it exhibited a valuable specimen of
Indian delineation.
Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our
stores, and fish being out of season, purchased forty dogs, for which
we gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles,
brass wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed
perfectly satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie cocks killed this
morning, formed a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our
guide and the two young men who had accompanied him, two of the three
not being willing to go any further, and the third could be of no use
as he was not acquainted with the river below. We therefore took no
Indians but our two chiefs, and resumed our journey in the presence of
many of the Sokulks, who came to witness our departure. The morning was
cool and fair, and the wind from the southeast. Soon after proceeding,
We passed the island in the mouth of Lewis river, and at eight miles
reached a larger island, which extends three miles in length. On going
down by this island there is another on the right, which commences
about the middle of it, and continues for three and a half miles.
While they continue parallel to each other they occasion a rapid near
the lower extremity of the first island, opposite to which on the
second island are nine lodges built of mats, and intended for the
accommodation of the fishermen, of whom we saw great numbers, and vast
quantities of dried fish on their scaffolds.
On reaching the lower point of the island, we landed to examine a
bad rapid, and then undertook the passage which is very difficult,
as the channel lies between two small islands, with two others still
smaller near the left side of the river. Here are two Indian houses,
the inhabitants of which were as usual drying fish. We passed the
rapid without injury, and fourteen and a half miles from the mouth of
Lewis’s river, came to an island near the right shore, on which were
two other houses of Indians, pursuing the customary occupation. One
mile and a half beyond this place, is a mouth of a small brook under a
high hill on the left. It seems to run during its whole course through
the high country, which at this place begins, and rising to the height
of two hundred feet form cliffs of rugged black rocks which project a
considerable distance into the river. At this place too we observed a
mountain to the S. W. the form of which is conical, and its top covered
with snow. We followed the river as it entered these highlands, and at
the distance of two miles reached three islands, one on each side of
the river, and a third in the middle, on which were two houses, where
the Indians were drying fish opposite a small rapid. Near these a
fourth island begins, close to the right shore, where were nine lodges
of Indians, all employed with their fish. As we passed they called to
us to land, but as night was coming on, and there was no appearance
of wood in the neighborhood, we went on about a mile further, till
observing a log that had drifted down the river, we landed near it on
the left side, and formed our camp under a high hill, after having
made twenty miles to-day. Directly opposite to us are five houses of
Indians, who were drying fish on the same island where we had passed
the nine lodges, and on the other side of the river we saw a number
of horses feeding. Soon after landing, we were informed by our chiefs
that the large camp of nine houses, belonged to the first chief of all
the tribes in this quarter, and that he had called to request us to
land and pass the night with him as he had plenty of wood for us. This
intelligence would have been very acceptable if it had been explained
sooner, for we were obliged to use dried willows for fuel to cook with,
not being able to burn the drift-log which had tempted us to land. We
now sent the two chiefs along the left side of the river to invite the
great chief down to spend the night with us. He came at a late hour,
accompanied by twenty men, bringing a basket of mashed berries which he
left as a present for us, and formed a camp at a short distance from
us. The next morning,
Saturday 19, the great chief with two of his inferior chiefs, and a
third belonging to a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very
early hour. The first of these is called _Yelleppit_, a handsome well
proportioned man, about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five
years of age, with a bold and dignified countenance; the rest were
not distinguished in their appearance. We smoked with them, and after
making a speech gave a medal, a handkerchief, and a string of wampum
to Yelleppit, and a string of wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He
requested us to remain till the middle of the day, in order that all
his nation might come and see us, but we excused ourselves by telling
him that on our return we would spend two or three days with him. This
conference detained us till nine o’clock, by which time great numbers
of the Indians had come down to visit us. On leaving them, we went
on for eight miles, when we came to an island near the left shore
which continued six miles in length. At the lower extremity of it is a
small island on which are five houses, at present vacant, though the
scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A short distance below, are
two more islands, one of them near the middle of the river. On this
there were seven houses; but as soon as the Indians, who were drying
fish, saw us, they fled to their houses, and not one of them appeared
till we had passed, when they came out in greater numbers than is usual
for houses of that size, which induced us to think that the inhabitants
of the five lodges had been alarmed at our approach and taken refuge
with them. We were very desirous of landing in order to relieve their
apprehensions, but as there was a bad rapid along the island, all our
care was necessary to prevent injury to the canoes. At the foot of this
rapid is a rock, on the left shore, which is fourteen miles from our
camp of last night, and resembles a hat in its shape.
Four miles beyond this island we came to a rapid, from the appearance
of which it was judged prudent to examine it. After landing for that
purpose on the left side, we began to enter the channel which is
close under the opposite shore. It is a very dangerous rapid, strewed
with high rocks and rocky islands, and in many places obstructed by
shoals, over which the canoes were to be hauled, so that we were more
than two hours in passing through the rapids, which extend for the
same number of miles. The rapid has several small islands, and banks
of muscleshells are spread along the river in several places. In
order to lighten the boats, captain Clarke, with the two chiefs, the
interpreter, and his wife, had walked across the low grounds on the
left to the foot of the rapids. On the way, captain Clarke ascended a
cliff about two hundred feet above the water, from which he saw that
the country on both sides of the river immediately from its cliffs,
was low, and spreads itself into a level plain, extending for a
great distance on all sides. To the west, at the distance of about
one hundred and fifty miles, is a very high mountain covered with
snow, and from its direction and appearance, he supposed to be the
mount St. Helens, laid down by Vancouver, as visible from the mouth
of the Columbia: there is also another mountain of a conical form,
whose top is covered with snow, in a southwest direction. As captain
Clarke arrived at the lower end of the rapid before any, except one of
the small canoes, he sat down on a rock to wait for them, and seeing
a crane fly across the river, shot it, and it fell near him. Several
Indians had been before this passing on the opposite side towards the
rapids, and some few who had been nearly in front of him, being either
alarmed at his appearance or the report of the gun, fled to their
houses. Captain Clarke was afraid that these people had not yet heard
that white men were coming, and therefore, in order to allay their
uneasiness before the whole party should arrive, he got into the small
canoe with three men and rowed over towards the houses, and while
crossing, shot a duck, which fell into the water. As he approached,
no person was to be seen except three men in the plains, and they too
fled as he came near the shore. He landed before five houses close to
each other, but no one appeared, and the doors, which were of mat,
were closed. He went towards one of them with a pipe in his hand, and
pushing aside the mat entered the lodge, where he found thirty-two
persons, chiefly men and women, with a few children, all in the
greatest consternation; some hanging down their heads, others crying
and wringing their hands. He went up to them all and shook hands with
them in the most friendly manner; but their apprehensions, which had
for a moment subsided, revived on his taking out a burning glass, as
there was no roof to the house, and lighting his pipe: he then offered
it to several of the men, and distributed among the women and children
some small trinkets which he carried about with him, and gradually
restored some tranquillity among them. He then left this house, and
directing each of the men to go into a house, went himself to a second:
here we found the inhabitants more terrified than those he had first
seen; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and then visited the other
houses, where the men had been equally successful. After leaving the
houses he went out to sit on a rock, and beckoned to some of the men
to come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to join him till
the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately explained
our pacific intentions towards them. Soon after the interpreter’s
wife landed, and her presence dissipated all doubts of our being
well-disposed, since in this country, no woman ever accompanies a war
party: they therefore all came out and seemed perfectly reconciled;
nor could we indeed blame them for their terrors, which were perfectly
natural. They told the two chiefs that they knew we were not men, for
they had seen us fall from the clouds: in fact, unperceived by them,
captain Clarke had shot the white crane, which they had seen fall just
before he appeared to their eyes: the duck which he had killed also
fell close by him, and as there were a few clouds flying over at the
moment, they connected the fall of the birds and his sudden appearance,
and believed that he had himself dropped from the clouds; the noise of
the rifle, which they had never heard before, being considered merely
as the sound to announce so extraordinary an event. This belief was
strengthened, when on entering the room he brought down fire from
the heavens by means of his burning-glass: we soon convinced them
satisfactorily that we were only mortals, and after one of our chiefs
had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in great
harmony. These people do not speak precisely the same language as
the Indians above, but understand them in conversation. In a short
time we were joined by many of the inhabitants from below, several of
them on horseback, and all pleased to see us, and to exchange their
fish and berries for a few trinkets. We remained here to dine, and
then proceeded. At half a mile the hilly country on the right side
of the river ceased: at eleven miles we found a small rapid, and a
mile further came to a small island on the left, where there are some
willows. Since we had left the five lodges, we passed twenty more,
dispersed along the river at different parts of the valley on the
right; but as they were now apprised of our coming they showed no
signs of alarm. On leaving the island we passed three miles further
along a country which is low on both sides of the river, and encamped
under some willow trees on the left, having made thirty-six miles
to-day. Immediately opposite to us is an island close to the left
shore, and another in the middle of the river, on which are twenty-four
houses of Indians, all engaged in drying fish. We had scarcely landed
before about a hundred of them came over in their boats to visit us,
bringing with them a present of some wood, which was very acceptable:
we received them in as kind a manner as we could--smoked with all of
them, and gave the principal chief a string of wampum; but the highest
satisfaction they enjoyed was the music of two of our violins, with
which they seemed much delighted: they remained all night at our fires.
This tribe is a branch of the nation called Pishquitpaws, and can raise
about three hundred and fifty men. In dress they resemble the Indians
near the forks of the Columbia, except that their robes are smaller and
do not reach lower than the waist; indeed, three fourths of them have
scarcely any robes at all. The dress of the females is equally scanty;
for they wear only a small piece of a robe which covers their shoulders
and neck, and reaches down the back to the waist, where it is attached
by a piece of leather tied tight round the body: their breasts, which
are thus exposed to view, are large, ill-shaped, and are suffered to
hang down very low: their cheek-bones high, their heads flattened, and
their persons in general adorned with scarcely any ornaments. Both
sexes are employed in curing fish, of which they have great quantities
on their scaffolds.
Sunday 20. The morning was cool, the wind from the southwest. Our
appearance had excited the curiosity of the neighbourhood so much, that
before we set out about two hundred Indians had collected to see us,
and as we were desirous of conciliating their friendship, we remained
to smoke and confer with them till breakfast. We then took our repast,
which consisted wholly of dog-flesh, and proceeded. We passed three
vacant houses near our camp, and at six miles reached the head of a
rapid, on descending which we soon came to another, very difficult and
dangerous. It is formed by a chain of large black rocks, stretching
from the right side of the river, and with several small islands on
the left, nearly choaking the channel of the river. To this place we
gave the name of the Pelican rapid, from seeing a number of pelicans
and black cormorants about it. Just below it is a small island near the
right shore, where are four houses of Indians, all busy in drying fish.
At sixteen miles from our camp we reached a bend to the left opposite
to a large island, and at one o’clock halted for dinner on the lower
point of an island on the right side of the channel. Close to this was
a larger island on the same side, and on the left bank of the river a
small one, a little below. We landed near some Indian huts, and counted
on this cluster of three islands, seventeen of their houses filled with
inhabitants, resembling in every respect those higher up the river;
like the inhabitants, they were busy in preparing fish. We purchased of
them some dried fish, which were not good, and a few berries, on which
we dined, and then walked to the head of the island for the purpose of
examining a vault, which we had marked in coming along. This place, in
which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty feet long and
twelve feet wide, and is formed by placing in the ground poles or forks
six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole length
of the structure. Against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards,
and pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed.
It stands east and west, and neither of the extremities are closed.
On entering the western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped
carefully in leather robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were
then covered with a mat. This was the part destined for those who
had recently died: a little farther on, the bones half decayed were
scattered about, and in the centre of the building was a large pile
of them heaped promiscuously on each other. At the eastern extremity
was a mat, on which twenty-one sculls were placed in a circular
form, the mode of interment being first to wrap the body in robes,
and as it decays the bones are thrown into the heap, and the sculls
placed together. From the different boards and pieces of canoes which
form the vault, were suspended on the inside fishing-nets, baskets,
wooden-bowls, robes, skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds,
obviously intended as offerings of affection to deceased relatives.
On the outside of the vault were the skeletons of several horses,
and great quantities of bones in the neighbourhood, which induced us
to believe that these animals were most probably sacrificed at the
funeral rites of their masters. Having dined we proceeded past a small
island, where were four huts of Indians, and at the lower extremity a
bad rapid. Half a mile beyond this, and at the distance of twenty-four
from our camp, we came to the commencement of the highlands on the
right, which are the first we have seen on that side since near the
Muscleshell rapids, leaving a valley forty miles in extent. Eight
miles lower we passed a large island in the middle of the river, below
which are eleven small islands, five on the right, the same number
on the left and one in the middle of the stream. A brook falls in on
the right side, and a small rivulet empties itself behind one of the
islands. The country on the right consists of high and rugged hills;
the left is a low plain with no timber on either side, except a few
small willow-brushes along the banks; though a few miles after leaving
these islands the country on the left rises to the same height with
that opposite to it, and becomes an undulating plain. Two miles after
passing a small rapid we reached a point of highland in a bend towards
the right, and encamped for the evening, after a journey of forty-two
miles. The river has been about a quarter of a mile in width, with a
current much more uniform than it was during the last two days. We
killed two speckled gulls, and several ducks of a delicious flavour.