KHAO SAMROUM--PROVINCE OF PECHABURI OR PHETXABURI.
JOURNEY TO BANGKOK.
After a sojourn of three weeks within the walls of Ongcor-Wat in order
to make drawings and plans, I returned to Battambong. There I inquired
for some means of transport to Bangkok, but, on different pretexts, I
was detained more than two months before I could get away, in spite
of the assistance of the viceroy. At last, on the 5th March, I set
off with two waggons and two pair of powerful buffaloes, which had
been taken wild, and trained up to the yoke, and were strong enough to
sustain the fatigues of a journey at this season.
This time I carried along with me a complete menagerie; but of all my
prisoners a pretty young chimpanzee, which, after slightly wounding
it, we had succeeded in taking alive, was the most amusing. As long as
I kept him in my room, and he could amuse himself with the numerous
children and other visitors whom curiosity brought to look at him, he
was very gentle; but as I was obliged on the journey to fasten him at
the back of one of the waggons, he became frightened, and used every
effort to break his chain, continually screaming, and trying to hide
himself. After a time, however, he got accustomed to his position, and
was quiet and docile as before.
Our guns on our shoulders, I and my young Chinese Phrai followed or
walked before the waggons, occasionally finding some sport as we
skirted the forest. As for my other servant, when we reached Pinhalú he
begged to be allowed to return to Bangkok by our former route; so, not
wishing to retain him against his will, I paid his expenses home, and
wished him happiness.
Scarcely had we proceeded a mile when our drivers asked my permission
to stop for supper, saying that afterwards we could set out again,
and travel part of the night. I at once consented, knowing it to be a
custom with the Cambodians, before departing on a long journey, to make
their first halt not far from their village, that they may return home
to shed a last tear, and partake of a farewell glass.
Before the oxen were even unyoked, the families of our drivers were all
collected round me, the whole party talking at once, and begging me
to take care of their relations, to save them from robbers, and give
them medicine if they had a headache. They all then took their evening
meal together, washing it down with some glasses of arrack which I gave
them; after which we resumed our journey by a magnificent moonlight,
but treading in a bed of dust which reached to our ankles, and raised a
thick cloud round our waggons.
We encamped part of the night near a small piece of water, where some
custom-house officers are stationed--three poor wretches--whose duty
it is to arrest the depredators who lie in wait for the buffaloes and
elephants coming down here from the lake and neighbouring districts.
Those among us who had mats, spread them on the ground, and lay down;
those who had none, piled up grass and leaves for beds.
For three days we travelled northward until we reached Ongcor-Borige,
chief town of a province of the same name; but, surprised by darkness
and a heavy storm, we were compelled to halt at the outskirts. The
next morning, as we were leaving the place, we fell in with a caravan
of thirty waggons conveying rice to Muang-Kabine, whither we were
ourselves going; so my Cambodians fraternised with the party, all
breakfasting together, and two hours afterwards we set off again at the
head of this line of waggons.
There is here an immense plain, almost a desert, which in the best
season takes six days to cross with elephants, and twelve with waggons.
As for us, we set out on the 5th March, and only reached Muang-Kabine
on the 28th; and oh! what we suffered from ennui, from heat, from
attacks of mosquitoes, and want of water. In addition to these miseries
my feet became like a jelly; and, when we arrived at our destination, I
could scarcely drag myself along, or keep up with the slow but regular
step of the buffaloes.
Some days before reaching Muang-Kabine we had to ford a small river,
the Bang-Chang, and here we obtained some good water; but all the rest
of the journey we had nothing but the water from the muddy pools,
serving for baths and drinking-places to all the buffaloes of the
caravan. When I drank it, or used it for cooking or tea, I purified
it with a little alum, a better method than filtering. Every day some
accident happened to our waggons, which was one cause of our being so
long on the road.
On our arrival at Muang-Kabine we found great excitement prevailing
on account of a recent discovery of gold-mines, which had attracted
to the place a number of Laotians, Chinese, and Siamese. The mines
of Battambong, being less rich, are not so much frequented. From
Muang-Kabine I continued my route to Paknam, where I hired a boat to
take me to Bangkok.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW IN THE GULF OF SIAM.]
The first day’s navigation was very tedious, the water being shallow,
and the sand-banks in many places bare, but the day following we were
able to lay aside our poles, and take to the oars. The stream takes a
bend towards the south, and empties itself into the gulf a little above
Petrin, a district which produces all the sugar of Siam, which is sold
at Bangkok.
This canal connects the Menam and the Bang-Chang, which afterwards
takes the name of Bang-Pakong; it is nearly sixty miles in length, and
was the work of a clever Siamese general, the same who, twenty years
ago, retook Battambong from the Cochin-Chinese. He is also noted for
having constructed a fine road from Paknam to Ongcor-Borige, the place
where the great inundations have their limit. This road I could not
make use of, for at this season I should have found neither water nor
grass for my oxen.
On the banks of the Bang-Pakong are several Cambodian villages, peopled
by prisoners from Battambong; and along the canal, on either side, is
a mixed, and for this country numerous population, of Malays, Laotians
from the peninsula, and Laotians from Vien-Chan, a district on the
banks of the Mekong, north-east of Korat, and now depopulated by
frequent revolts.
Although overburdened with taxes, yet, to judge from their clean and
comfortable dwellings, and a certain air of well-doing which reigns in
these villages, the inhabitants must enjoy some degree of prosperity,
especially since the impulse given to commerce by the Europeans settled
in the capital.
The water was so thickly covered with weeds that our progress was much
impeded, and we were three days in the canal; while, after May, it only
takes the same time to go from Paknam to Bangkok.
ARRIVAL AT BANGKOK.
On the 4th April I returned to the capital, after fifteen months’
absence. During the greater part of this time I had never known the
comfort of sleeping in a bed; and throughout my wanderings my only food
had been rice or dried fish, and I had not once tasted good water. I
was astonished at having preserved my health so well, particularly
in the forests, where, often wet to the skin, and without a change
of clothes, I have had to pass whole nights by a fire at the foot
of a tree; yet I have not had a single attack of fever, and been
always happy and in good spirits, especially when lucky enough to
light upon some novelty. A new shell or insect filled me with a joy
which ardent naturalists alone can understand; but they know well how
little fatigues and privations of all kinds are cared for when set
against the delight experienced in making one discovery after another,
and in feeling that one is of some slight assistance to the votaries
of science. It pleases me to think that my investigations into the
archæology, entomology, and conchology of these lands may be of use
to certain members of the great and generous English nation, who
kindly encouraged the poor naturalist; whilst France, his own country,
remained deaf to his voice.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch taken by M. Mouhot in the residence
of the Prime Minister.
CEREMONY, ON A YOUNG SIAMESE COMING OF AGE, OF THE REMOVAL OF THE TUFT.]
NEWS FROM EUROPE.
It was another great pleasure to me, after these fifteen months of
travelling, during which very few letters from home had reached me, to
find, on arriving at Bangkok, an enormous packet, telling me all the
news of my distant family and country. It is indeed happiness, after
so long a period of solitude, to read the lines traced by the beloved
hands of an aged father, of a wife, of a brother. These joys are to be
reckoned among the sweetest and purest of life.
We stopped in the centre of the town, at the entrance of a canal,
whence there is a view over the busiest part of the Menam. It was
almost night, and silence reigned around us; but when at daybreak I
rose and saw the ships lying at anchor in the middle of the stream,
while the roofs of the palaces and pagodas reflected the first rays of
the sun, I thought that Bangkok had never looked so beautiful. However,
life here would never suit me, and the mode of locomotion is wearisome
after an active existence among the woods and in the chase.
PORT AND TOWN OF BANGKOK.
The river is constantly covered with thousands of boats of different
sizes and forms, and the port of Bangkok is certainly one of the finest
in the world, without excepting even the justly-renowned harbour of New
York. Thousands of vessels can find safe anchorage here.
The town of Bangkok increases in population and extent every day, and
there is no doubt but that it will become a very important capital: if
France succeeds in taking possession of Annam, the commerce between
the two countries will increase. It is scarcely a century old, and yet
contains nearly half a million of inhabitants, amongst whom are many
Christians. The flag of France floating in Cochin China would improve
the position of the missions in all the surrounding countries; and I
have reason to hope that Christianity will increase more rapidly than
it has hitherto done.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF THE PORT AND DOCKS OF BANGKOK.]
I had intended to visit the north-east of the country of Laos, crossing
Dong Phya Phai (the forest of the King of Fire), and going on to Hieng
Naie, on the frontiers of Cochin China; thence to the confines of
Tonquin. I had planned to return afterwards by the Nékong to Cambodia,
and then to pass through Cochin China, should the arms of France have
been victorious there. However, the rainy season having commenced,
the whole country was inundated, and the forests impassable; so it
was necessary to wait four months before I could put my project
in execution. I therefore packed up and sent off all my collections,
and after remaining a few weeks in Bangkok I departed for Pechaburi,
situated about 13° north lat., and to the north of the Malayan
peninsula.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
PORTRAIT OF KHROM LUANG, ONE OF THE BROTHERS OF THE KING OF SIAM.]
DEPARTURE FOR PECHABURI.
On the 8th May, at five o’clock in the evening, I sailed from Bangkok
in a magnificent vessel ornamented with rich gilding and carved-work,
belonging to Khrom Luang, one of the king’s brothers, who had kindly
lent it to a valued friend of mine. There is no reason for concealing
the name of this gentleman, who has proved himself a real friend in the
truest meaning of the word; but I rather embrace the opportunity of
testifying my affection and gratitude to M. Malherbes, who is a French
merchant settled at Bangkok. He insisted on accompanying me for some
distance, and the few days he passed with me were most agreeable ones.
The current was favourable, and, with our fifteen rowers, we proceeded
rapidly up the stream. Our boat, adorned with all sorts of flags, red
streamers, and peacocks’ tails, attracted the attention of all the
European residents, whose houses are built along the banks of the
stream, and who, from their verandahs, saluted us by cheering and
waving their hands. Three days after leaving Bangkok we arrived at
Pechaburi.
THE KING’S BROTHER.
The king was expected there the same day, to visit a palace which he
has had built on the summit of a hill near the town. Khrom Luang,
Kalahom (prime minister), and a large number of mandarins had already
assembled. Seeing us arrive, the prince called to us from his pretty
little house; and as soon as we had put on more suitable dresses
we waited on him, and he entered into conversation with us till
breakfast-time. He is an excellent man, and, of all the dignitaries of
the country, the one who manifests least reserve and hauteur towards
Europeans. In education, both this prince and the king are much
advanced, considering the state of the country; but in their manners
they have little more refinement than the people generally.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
HALL OF AUDIENCE, PALACE OF BANGKOK.]
PECHABURI.
Our first walk was to the hill on which the palace stands. Seen from a
little distance, this building, of European construction, presents a
very striking appearance; and the winding path which leads up to it has
been admirably contrived amidst the volcanic rocks, basalt, and scoria
which cover the surface of this ancient crater.
About twenty-five miles off, stretches from north to south a chain of
mountains called Deng, and inhabited by the independent tribes of the
primitive Kariens. Beyond these rise a number of still higher peaks. On
the low ground are forests, palm-trees, and rice-fields, the whole rich
and varied in colour. Lastly, to the south and east, and beyond another
plain, lies the gulf, on whose waters, fading away into the horizon, a
few scattered sails are just distinguishable.
It was one of those sights not to be soon forgotten, and the king has
evinced his taste in the selection of such a spot for his palace. No
beings can be less poetical or imaginative than the Indo-Chinese; their
hearts never appear to expand to the genial rays of the sun; yet they
must have some appreciation of this beautiful scenery, as they always
fix upon the finest sites for their pagodas and palaces.
GROTTOES.
Quitting this hill, we proceeded to another, like it an extinct volcano
or upheaved crater. Here are four or five grottoes, two of which are
of surprising extent, and extremely picturesque. A painting which
represented them faithfully would be supposed the offspring of a
fertile imagination; no one would believe it to be natural. The rocks,
long in a state of fusion, have taken, in cooling, those singular forms
peculiar to scoria and basalt. Then, after the sea had retreated--for
all these rocks have risen from the bottom of the water--owing to the
moisture continually dripping through the damp soil, they have taken
the richest and most harmonious colours. These grottoes, moreover,
are adorned by such splendid stalactites, which, like columns, seem
to sustain the walls and roofs, that one might fancy oneself present
at one of the beautiful fairy scenes represented at Christmas in the
London theatres.
If the taste of the architect of the king’s palace has failed in the
design of its interior, here, at least, he has made the best of all the
advantages offered to him by nature. A hammer touching the walls would
have disfigured them; he had only to level the ground, and to make
staircases to aid the descent into the grottoes, and enable the visitor
to see them in all their beauty.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
GROTTO AT PECHABURI.]
The largest and most picturesque of the caverns has been made into a
temple. All along the sides are rows of idols, one of superior size,
representing Buddha asleep, being gilt.
We came down from the mountain just at the moment of the king’s
arrival. Although his stay was not intended to exceed two days, he was
preceded by a hundred slaves carrying an immense number of coffers,
boxes, baskets, &c. A disorderly troop of soldiers marched both in
front and behind, dressed in the most singular and ridiculous costumes
imaginable. The emperor Soulouque himself would have laughed, for
certainly his old guard must have made a better appearance than that of
his East Indian brother. Nothing could give a better idea of this
set of tatterdemalions than the dressed-up monkeys which dance upon the
organs of the little Savoyards. Their apparel of coarse red cloth upper
garments, which left a part of the body exposed, in every case either
too large or too small, too long or too short, with white shakos, and
pantaloons of various colours; as for shoes, they were a luxury enjoyed
by few.
A few chiefs, whose appearance was quite in keeping with that of their
men, were on horseback, leading this band of warriors, whilst the king,
attended by slaves, slowly advanced in a little open carriage drawn by
a pony.
PLAGUE OF MOSQUITOES.
I visited several hills detached from the great chain Khao Deng, which
is only a few miles off. During my stay here it has rained continually,
and I have had to wage war with savage foes, from whom I never before
suffered so much. Nothing avails against them; they let themselves
be massacred, with a courage worthy of nobler beings. I speak of
mosquitoes. Thousands of these cruel insects suck our blood night and
day. My body, face, and hands are covered with wounds and blisters. I
would rather have to deal with the wild beasts of the forest. At times
I howl with pain and exasperation. No one can imagine the frightful
plague of these little demons, to whom Dante has omitted to assign a
place in his infernal regions. I scarcely dare to bathe, for my body
is covered before I can get into the water. The natural philosopher
who held up these little animals as examples of parental love was
certainly not tormented as I have been.
THE LAOTIANS.
About ten miles from Pechaburi I found several villages inhabited by
Laotians, who have been settled there for two or three generations.
Their costume consists of a long shirt and black pantaloons, like
those of the Cochin Chinese, and they have the Siamese tuft of hair.
The women wear the same head-dress as the Cambodians. Their songs,
and their way of drinking through bamboo pipes, from large jars, a
fermented liquor made from rice and herbs, recalled to my mind what
I had seen among the savage Stiêns. I also found among them the same
baskets and instruments used by those tribes.
The young girls are fair compared with the Siamese, and their features
are pretty; but they soon grow coarse, and lose all their charms.
Isolated in their villages, these Laotians have preserved their
language and customs, and they never mingle with the Siamese.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF PECHABURI.]