THE MINING INDUSTRY
The mining industry, which commenced activity in the seventeenth
century, was responsible for the consumption of very large quantities
of timber, and this has been going on for the last 270 years. The
Kongsberg silver-mines, which are owned by the State, have alone some
fifty square miles of State forest set apart for their requirements.
The ore at these mines is virgin silver, occurring in lodes, and it is
sometimes found in large nuggets weighing up to 200 pounds. These
silver-mines were commenced in the year 1624.
Copper-mining was started at Röros in 1646. The most important
copper-mines in the country are the Kongensgrube, Arvedalsgrube, and
Storvatsgrube; the {104} ore found in them is copper pyrites, and a
large quantity is exported. There are also extensive copper-mines at
Sulitjelma in Nordland, at Aamdal in Telemarken, and at Valahei in
Hardanger.
Owing to the condition of the forests and the consequent rise in the
value of charcoal, iron mining has not been very profitable, and many
old works have been closed. The Arendal iron-ore mines are the only
important mines now worked, and the ore is noted for its excellent
quality.
[Sidenote: The mining industry]
It will thus be seen that the mining industry in Norway is not of very
considerable importance, the reason being that, although the country is
fairly rich in minerals, the cost of conveyance to the coast is yet too
great for much profit to be made.
Those districts which are found to be rich in iron-ore happen to lie in
almost inaccessible country, and as coal does not occur except on the
out-of-the-way island of Andöen, the native conditions are not
favourable for smelting.
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In Gudbrandsdal and at several places near Throndhjem soapstone is
quarried in considerable quantities, and is now extensively used for
building purposes. The cathedral of Throndhjem is built of this stone.
Slate of a beautiful green colour is quarried at Voss and in Valders.
Granite, syenite, and porphyry are found in great abundance all over
the country.
Minerals which contain rare and beautiful metals and earths occur in
several places--at Arendal, for example--and these minerals are highly
treasured in all scientific collections.
The village and neighbourhood of Lærdal, or, properly, Lærdalsören, is
a notable example of tree-denuded country. Hidden away on a branch of
the great Sogne Fjord, and surrounded by bare and massive mountains,
Lærdalsören owes its chief, perhaps only, claim to importance from
being the chief avenue of traffic to the Sogne Fjord from the land
side. Owing to its enclosed situation, the direct {106} rays of the
sun do not reach the village during some five months of the winter
season, being in this respect in a worse position than Gudvangen.
[Sidenote: Lærdal]
The village of Lærdalsören lies on a broad, flat, well-cultivated plain
at the estuary of the river Læra, or the Lærdalselv, an excellent
salmon river. The valley through which this river flows is superbly
wild and picturesque; the mountains which enclose it are bare, rocky,
and desolate. The farther up this valley we go, the wilder becomes the
scenery, and the torrent thunders in many a cataract along the base of
the ravine-like valley.
[Illustration: Lærdalsören]
We may observe in several places huge cauldrons worn out of the solid
rock by the action of water, a number of these cauldrons being now far
above the present level of the river. We may also see, as we proceed,
that the road crosses several ancient lake basins, now dry, the river
having, in the course of ages, gradually worn down their rocky
barriers, thus draining the water from them.
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Some twelve miles drive up this magnificent valley we arrive at a place
called Borgund, where stands the quaint and curious "stav kirke" of
that name. This extremely interesting and fantastic church was built
in the twelfth century, and is in quite the best state of preservation
of any church of its kind in the country. It is not now used for
Divine service, a new and more commodious church having been built near
by, for the better convenience of the inhabitants of the district.
This ancient "stavkirke" of Borgund is now the property of the
Antiquarian Society of Christiania. Every part of this curious church
is of extreme interest--six tiers of pagoda-like, shingle-covered roof,
numerous gables from which spring grotesque dragons' heads, and lofty
and elaborately carved portals. On the massive door is carved, in
runic characters, the following inscription:
"Thorir raist runar thissar than Olaf misso."
(Thorir wrote these lines on the fair of Saint Olaf.)
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The church is picturesquely situated in the grandest portion of the
ravine-like valley of Lærdal.
To return to the village. In the evening we might enjoy an hour among
the clusters of old houses, and down by the boats hear the mellow tone
of the dialect of Sogn; or, strolling by the margin of the still fjord,
see the first discernible star of evening prick his image like a
diamond in the calm water, while all around the great mountains repeat
their mighty forms in accurate replica, save where a slight puff of
evening air disturbs the reflection in a long streak of silver ripple,
dying away as softly as it had begun.
A boat puts out from a tiny creek near by, and silently steals into the
line of vision. Only the faintest plash of the oars is heard, and
voices perhaps imagined. A line of sparkling light marks out the
boat's track across the deep reflections slowly fading away as the boat
passes out of sight.
Sailing out of the Bay of Lærdal on a {109} bright summer's morning,
and all nature being in its blithest mood, we should be dull mortals
indeed if we were not touched by some chord in the melody, and rejoice,
even with the birds, in the glorious sunshine and the rarified
atmosphere.
The morning sun sparkles on the blue fjord, and the delicate haze on
the mountains indicates the prelude to a hot day, so we take some
little care to place in a shady position our deck-chairs, and any stray
whiff of breeze is encouraged and acceptable.
The fjord is still, and, like a mirror, reflects accurately the image
of each mountain and crag, tree, and grazing cow. The steamer ploughs
along, and the long wash it creates breaks noisily in its rear on cliff
base and rocky strand.
We now arrive at the small village, or hamlet, of Aardal, at the head
of the branch fjord of the same name. The hamlet is picturesquely
situated on an elevation above the shore, and for a {110} background
has an imposing amphitheatre of high mountains.
The grandest waterfall in the Sogn district is in this
neighbourhood--the Vettisfos. This waterfall plunges into a deep and
awful chasm from a height of some 900 feet. The way to it is romantic
and rough, and, to add a spice of flavour to the excursion, the
district is a well-known haunt of bears at certain seasons of the year,
but not in summer-time.
In the Vettisgjel, a very deep and narrow ravine on the way to the
waterfall, destructive avalanches of rock are frequent, especially
after winter's thaws or heavy rain.
[Sidenote: Lyster Fjord]
In Lyster Fjord--the longest arm of the great Sogne Fjord--the scenery
is diversified and beautiful, but milder in character than that which
we have recently been viewing.
At the head of the fjord, however, the scenery is picturesque and
grand, in character somewhat resembling that of the {111} Lake of
Lucerne, and by many travellers thought to be quite as beautiful.
Skjolden, at the northern extremity of the fjord, is a starting-point
for Jötunheimen (the Giant Mountains), the Alps of Norway--the home of
giants ("jötun") according to Norse mythology. This wonderful group of
mountains is in the very heart of the country, and it is here that the
grandest peaks in the whole of Norway are found, Galdhöpiggen, (8,396
feet) and Glittertind (8,380 feet) being the highest.
This uninhabited region of weird grandeur has been considerably opened
out to travellers in recent years by the efforts of the Norwegian
Tourist Club. Hostels, huts, and "sæters" have been built, roads and
tracks improved, safe bridges thrown over inconvenient and dangerous
torrents, and the services of trustworthy guides secured at all
convenient places in this extensive district; so that for pedestrian
expeditions made through this region now, although {112} involving much
rough walking and consequent fatigue, food and accommodation will be
found, especially if travellers enrol themselves members of the
Norwegian Tourist Club. This ensures them certain privileges, and
preference of accommodation over all other travellers who are not
members.
In Lyster Fjord we find one of the most beautiful valleys in
Sogn--Jostedalen by name. Thickly populated, carefully cultivated, and
well watered by the Jostedalselv and its tributaries, this valley is,
like most Norwegian valleys, a deep ravine, especially at its head. It
divides an extensive plateau of everlasting snow, and here are numerous
glaciers, ramifications of the great Jostedalsbræ, the most extensive
ice-field in Europe.
The farms and mountain "sæters" in this fertile district are numerous
and picturesquely situated. The branch valleys are richly cultivated,
and the peasants are, on the whole, in prosperous circumstances.
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This beautiful district of Lyster is also noted for its extensive
orchards, "Gaard" (farm) Kroken, which is situated at the foot of
Krokedalen, being the most famous. Near the farm an extremely fine
waterfall 1,400 feet in height leaps from the crags of Kivenaase.
There are several interesting old churches in the district of
Lyster--at Dösen, Joranger, and Urnæs.
The latter church stands high on a promontory opposite the village of
Solvorn, which is situated in a valley across the fjord.
Urnæs "stavkirke" is considered by antiquarians to be the earliest of
the wooden churches now in existence. The eminence on which it stands
is some 300 feet above the fjord. The church was built about the year
1100, at the time that Christianity was introduced to this part of the
country. This was in King Olaf Kyrre's time, the King who caused many
churches to be built in the west country.
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Both inside and outside of the church are quaint carvings, which show
unmistakable signs of early Irish influence in the design and
craftsmanship. On several of the pillars inside the church are
writings in runes ("runeskrift"). The church plate and ornaments on
the altar are very quaint and ancient.
[Illustration: Urnæs church, Lyster, Sogne Fjord]
Urnæs "stavkirke" stands on the site of a yet earlier erection--a pagan
temple, some of the material of which may be traced in the existing
building. These pagans had evidently good taste in the choice of a
site for their temple.
The view from this place, overlooking the fjord to Solvorn, is very
beautiful.
On the promontory below, and near the fjord, stands a giant's
"gravhaug," or "kjæmpehaug" (a huge burial mound), where, according to
local tradition, the Viking Ragnvald was buried along with his magic
sword. There have been "finds" in it dating back to the Bronze Age.
Near this place are several tall standing stones ("bautastein"), which
evidently {115} mark the sites of prehistoric interments. The fjord
steamers seldom call here, but across the fjord at Solvorn boats may be
hired to row over the short distance, and a few hours might be
agreeably spent at this beautiful and interesting place.
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